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Can You (Not!) Dig It? What to Do if Your Dog Digs Where You Don’t Want Him To

By
Stephanie Colman
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dogs digging
It’s not worth your time (or the risk of your dog escaping) to take such half-measures like this if your dog has begun digging under your fence. Either prevent your dog from having any unsupervised time in the yard, or get serious about a dig-proof barrier: deeply buried wire or tall paving stones, Dig Defence, or pouring a concrete path along the fence so no digging can happen at all. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

When it comes to natural dog behavior, for many dogs, digging is on the list of favorite pastimes. Unfortunately, for dogs who share their lives with humans, digging is often considered a “no go” activity.

Dogs dig holes in the dirt for a variety of reasons:

  • To explore the environment
  • To relieve boredom and/or stress
  • To escape an enclosed area
  • To create a cool spot to rest
  • In pursuit of ground-dwelling critters.
  • It’s fun!

Prevent digging in the first place

The best way to address digging is to prevent it altogether. Avoid leaving your dog outside unsupervised until you’re confident he can self-entertain without digging. Examine your yard to identify the areas with prime digging potential, such as spots with loose dirt or gopher mounds or damp areas that invite digging. Of course, some dogs will decide to dig anywhere, but reducing the temptation makes it easier to direct your dog’s attention to more desirable behaviors.

If you must leave your digging-prone dog unsupervised in the yard, employ management to help prevent the rehearsal of the unwanted behavior. Consider a safe enclosure like a dog run or use a sturdy exercise pen set up to restrict access to areas where your dog likes to dig. It won’t be forever – just while she’s learning!

Provide your dog with enrichment

It’s also wise to take an honest inventory of your dog’s overall enrichment. Does your dog leave the house and/or yard every day for a walk? Is it always the same route? Do you mix things up with some training while you walk? If your dog is confident in public, does he ever accompany you on errands to new (dog-friendly) places? Dogs often dig because they’re bored. Be honest about what else he has on his agenda in a typical week and see how you might spice things up a bit.

How to stop a dog’s established habit of digging holes

Here are some things to try if your dog has already made a habit of nuisance digging:

Make a Digging Pit – Fill a kid’s sandbox or plastic wading pool with sand or dirt. (Sand makes less of a mess than dirt.) Bury your dog’s favorite toys. Excitedly show him the pit and help him uncover the prizes. Remember to replenish the toys hidden within the pit and repeat the process of helping him uncover the treasures. As he gets better, the “hides” can become smaller and harder to find.

Digging random holes? Try replacing most of the dirt in the hole, collect some of your dog’s feces to add atop the replaced dirt, and top it off with the rest of the dirt. For some dogs, digging for fun – and finding feces – takes the fun right out of digging! You’ll probably need to do this a few times as your dog experiments with digging new holes, but for many dogs, the consistent experience of uncovering feces will help them rethink their backyard behavior – especially when paired with your efforts to give them better things to do.

Can’t bring yourself to rig your dog’s favorite holes with poop? Use the same technique but instead of poop, use a piece of chicken wire cut to fit the surface area of the mostly filled hole.

What to do if your dog digs under the fence

For fence diggers, we recommend digging a trough along the fence and lining it with heavy, upright stone pavers. You can also attach an 18-inch-tall trip of chicken wire to the bottom of a wooden fence and bury about it at least a foot deep.

We recently discovered a product called Dig Defence, a galvanized steel product resembling a giant comb, and is designed to be pounded into the ground next to and under a fence, providing an underground barrier for digging. It comes in 36-inch lengths with a range of “teeth” lengths and distances between teeth (smaller gaps for smaller dogs, and wider gaps for bigger dogs) and is effective at preventing a dog from escaping through a hole he’s dug next to a fence. It would be cost-prohibitive to line your entire fence with these panels, but if your dog keeps digging in just one area, this might be the solution. See digdefence.com.

Most importantly, remember that behavior doesn’t change overnight. You’ll need to be consistent in your efforts to reduce your dog’s digging via a combination of training and management, and you should expect it to take up to a few months of consistency before you see significant improvement. Don’t dig your own hole deeper by giving up too soon!

Using Enrichment to Meet Your Dog’s Needs: A Fun and Humane Tool For Solving Behavioral Issues

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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puppy chewing
Watch what your dog or puppy tends to do, and then create enrichment to match his or her demonstrated needs. If she’s chewing the furniture, try giving her more “legal” chewing opportunities – preferably with toys that have a similar texture! Photo by Kathy Callahan.

You’ve likely been hearing that you should be providing “enrichment” for your dog. But if you’re just a little suspicious of all of the pricey things suddenly being marketed as dog enrichment toys and activities… you’re onto something!

True dog enrichment is indeed critical, but you can’t just whip out your credit card and cross “enrichment” off your to-do list. Even if your neighbor raves about a certain enrichment food puzzle or agility class, it may not provide any enrichment at all for your particular dog.

Here’s why: Canine enrichment is in the eye of the beholder, and not all dogs are the same. A little observation of your own furry friend will go a long way in helping you figure out great (and often free!) ways to provide effective enrichment.

Unmet Needs Create Behavior Problems in Dogs

Coming up with an enrichment plan for your dog starts with simple observation. That means that you should watch your dog first, then come up with a specific plan for enrichment activities. Is your dog digging in the yard? Chewing the furniture? Pulling on lead with his nose to the ground? Your dog’s behaviors can be the observational breadcrumbs that will lead you to effective enrichment – and a much happier dog.

Note what your dog tends to do, then experiment with objects, activities, or ways to rearrange the environment that might “scratch that itch.” Certain behaviors might suggest specific types of enrichment:

Dog enrichment ideas for dogs who pull on the leash

If your dog often pulls with her nose to the ground, she could have an unmet need for scenting. Experiment with enrichment activities such as:

  • Adding more “sniffari” walks where you go at the dog’s pace, perhaps using a long lead, and deliberately seek out places that will be gloriously full of things to sniff: wildlife, other dogs, city life. (Some of the best options are free, like this one!)
  • Signing up for a scent work class.
  • Creating your own scent work adventures at home. (I saw a demonstration of this at a wolf sanctuary this summer, where they put a tiny bit of pickle juice in the grass and the wolves spent 15 minutes finding it, sniffing it, rolling in it.)

Obviously, you also want to work toward more pleasant leash walks by finding the right harness and working on engagement – but if an unmet need for scenting has been a factor in the pulling, those efforts will be more successful after this targeted enrichment.

Dog enrichment ideas for dogs who counter-surf

If your dog is counter-surfing, he could have an unmet need for foraging. You could experiment with these enrichment activities:

  • Playing “find it” on walks, or while you’re watching TV.
  • Using different food puzzles. Emphasis on “different” – because it doesn’t feel like foraging if it’s exactly the same each time! Get creative. Hide that stuffed Toppl under the couch, then in the bathroom.
  • Using scatter feeding (both indoor and out) instead of bowls.

To address counter-surfing, it is also important to stop leaving delicious things unsupervised on the counter! But for a dog who’s craving foraging, providing “legal” outlets can make him much less obnoxious around food in general.

puppies digging
Digging is a natural behavior for dogs, and blocking your dog’s ability to meet that need can create other behavioral issues. Try encouraging digging only in a designated spot in the garden, or in a sandbox. Bury toys there to support this fun, stress-relieving energy outlet. Photo by Kathy Callahan.

Dog enrichment ideas for dogs who dig

If your dog is digging, there are different unmet needs it could signify: maybe she’s a terrier who needs to tunnel for rodents; maybe she’s a Beagle who needs to follow any scent to the game; maybe she’s a thick-coated Husky who’s just trying to reach cool dirt. You can experiment with these enrichment activities:

  • Providing a sandbox in a shady part of the yard, and hide toys in and under the sand.
  • Making sure there’s a cool surface in a non-sunny nap spot. Some dogs prefer tile, a raised cot with breathable fabric, or a bare crate floor to a cozy bed!

 

Enrichment and How It Can Solve Many Animal Behavior Issues

Contrary to popular understanding, canine enrichment is not simply about providing something extra. It’s also not about exercise or boredom-busting, although it will likely provide those things, too. It’s about meeting your dog’s unique needs by offering ways to engage in natural, species-typical behaviors – behaviors that our modern way of life often does not allow. Canine enrichment helps dogs be dogs, solving many of our problems with their behavior along the way.

The concept of animal enrichment started in the 1970s, as zoos were starting to focus on conservation. Breeding was a newly important goal – and it was proving elusive. Some began to theorize that the reason animals weren’t procreating was because their daily life in captivity was too far from their norm in the wild. They weren’t behaviorally, emotionally, or physically healthy enough to breed.

Some zoos experimented with ways to come closer to meeting each animal’s natural needs. Out went the standard, bare-bones enclosures, and in flooded the perching areas, climbing vines, prey scents, hidden food, soundtracks of the wild, and more. The change brought dramatic success to breeding programs, as well as an “ah-ha” moment. A new zoo focus was born: using behavior to assess health and enrichment to improve it.

The pet dog world paid attention. Like the non-breeding zoo animals, pet dogs also show through their behavior – barking, chewing, anxiety, and more – that something is off. Behaviorists began to theorize that enrichment could make dogs more behaviorally sound, too. Rather than attempting to train the unwanted behavior out of the animal, they started looking at whether the dog’s needs were being met.

“When you don’t meet needs, you get maladaptive behaviors,” says Emily Strong, CDBC, SBA, co-author of Canine Enrichment for the Real World with Allie Bender, CDBC, CPDT-KA, SBA. Both are experts in training and behavior, and their authoritative book combines a rich scientific foundation with client-tested ideas to improve dogs’ lives.

“Enrichment often solves behavior problems,” says Bender. “When they have an issue, people assume they need a trainer, but nobody learns well when their needs aren’t being met. If the first step in a training plan is focused on meeting needs, sometimes the issues – jumping, barking, mouthing, digging, or whatever – simply go away.

Dog Enrichment as an Interesting Puzzle

The final part of the experiment is assessment: Is it really enrichment? You can only tell by watching your dog. Does he love it? Is he super engaged? Has it decreased the problem behavior that led you to try this? If the answers are yes, yes, and yes – that’s enrichment. But if he leaves that Kong half filled, or hides under your legs during that agility class, it’s not functioning as enrichment. Back to the drawing board!

Allie Bender, CDBC, CPDT-KA, SBA, and Emily Strong, CDBC, SBA, are co-authors of Canine Enrichment for the Real World: Making It Part of Your Dog’s Daily Life. They encourage owners to think of this process – discovering what natural canine needs are going unmet in your dog’s life – as a rewarding puzzle. Not only does meeting those needs make him happier and easier to live with, but also, as Bender says, “It’s way more fun to address these behavioral issues using enrichment rather than trying through training alone.”

Strong adds, “Thinking about enrichment flips the traditional mindset around dog behavior. Instead of thinking ‘What do I want the dog to do?’ we think ‘What does this dog need to do?’ Oddly, when you do that, you often end up solving the first question.”

How Do I Stop My Dog From Jumping Up?

By
Editorial Staff
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0
Stop Jumping

What if I told you that you could improve your dog’s behavior without training him? That you could prevent him from doing many of the behaviors that you don’t like – without any cues or treats or learning curves?

Well, these things are completely possible. You can accomplish these goals through management – the art of controlling your dog’s environment to prevent him from being reinforced for behaviors you don’t want. It’s an incredibly valuable piece of any good training or behavior-modification program. Whether you are looking at a short-term or long-term management solution, the better you are at it, the easier it is for you and your dog to succeed.

In fact, management is the correct answer to most questions that are posed to professional dog trainers that begin, “How do I stop my dog from . . . ” (fill in your dog’s favorite inappropriate behavior here). In many cases, management is necessary while the dog learns a new, more appropriate behavior. In others, management offers a simple long-term solution or replaces unrealistic training expectations.

1 – Rephrase: “How do I teach my dog to greet people politely, by sitting, or at least by keeping all four feet on the floor?”

2 – Manage: Control your dog’s environment to prevent her from being rewarded for jumping up on people. You can use the following tools:

  • A leash or tether to restrain her as people approach; allow them to feed her a treat and/or pet her only after she sits.
  • Crate, pen, closed doors, so when you can’t closely supervise her interactions with visitors, you can confine her to a safe area so she can’t practice her jumping-up behavior.
  • Education. Arm your visitors with information in advance of their first meeting with the dog so they know how to behave appropriately in response to her jumping up.
  • Exercise, because tired dogs tend to be better-behaved dogs.

3 – Train: Consistently reward her for sitting when she greets people. Use “negative punishment” (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) by turning away or stepping away when she tries to jump up.

For more information on why dogs jump on people and how to curb this unwanted behavior, download Stop Jumping today.

Dog Vaccine Requirements

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Poodle Vaccination Shot
Vaccination requirements for your dog are higher if you participate in dog classes or events. Credit: Yellow Dog Productions Inc. / Getty Images

Determining your dog’s vaccine schedule starts with a list called “core” vaccines for dogs. These vaccines are necessary for all dogs without exception. Other vaccines are recommended for some dogs, based on lifestyle and environment. These are called “non-core” vaccines.

As far as required vaccines for dogs, well, legally it’s only rabies in most areas. The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) has a PDF of state laws concerning rabies requirements. The rabies is vaccine is required due to its importance to public health, as humans can contract rabies.

Many grooming, training, and boarding facilities have required vaccines for dogs, usually including the distemper-parvo vaccine and kennel cough (Bordetella). Your veterinarian will guide you in the right choices for your puppy, but you can also go to the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) and use their simple online checklist method of choosing the right vaccines for your dog, based on his lifestyle.

The core vaccines are:

  • Puppies are usually vaccinated at 12 weeks of age or older. This first vaccine is good for one year, then the dog needs a booster. The booster given at 1 year is good for 3 years. Dogs should receive a rabies vaccine every three years throughout their lives.
  • Distemper-Parvo (DHPP). This combination vaccine protects against hepatitis and parainfluenza, both viruses. Puppies receive their first vaccine between 6 and 8 weeks of age. A booster is given every three to four weeks until the puppy is at least 16 weeks old. After that, they need a booster in one year. After that first booster, a booster every three years is recommended.

The non-core vaccines:

  • Kennel cough (Bordetella). This vaccine is recommended for dogs who will be boarded, go for grooming, indoor puppy classes, doggy day care, basically anywhere lots of dogs come together indoors. The initial vaccine is good for a year, after which an annual booster is recommended.
  • Lepto (Leptospirosis). The lepto vaccine is recommended for dogs with access to areas shared by wildlife. Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease spread through the urine of infected wildlife and rodents. The initial series is two shots, two to four weeks apart, with annual boosters.
  • Lyme (Borrelia burgdorferi). The Lyme vaccine is recommended for any dog who’s lifestyle and/or environment puts him at risk of ticks. The initial series is two shots, two to four weeks apart, with annual boosters.
  • Canine influenza (H3N8/H3N2). Available upon request, consider this vaccine for boarding dogs. It is mostly recommended for dogs traveling to other locations across the country where dogs from different geographic locations gather, such as dog sporting events. The initial series is two shots, two to four weeks apart, with annual boosters.

Your decision about vaccinations for dogs should be guided by your dog’s lifestyle. A dog who travels or frequently contacts other dogs needs more protection than the stay-at-home canine. One thing’s for sure: A vaccination is safer and far less expensive than risking your dog becoming ill with one of these diseases.

Happy Thanksgiving!

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
three dogs looking up at camera
©Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

This Thanksgiving, I’m grateful that my dogs are all still present and that we’re all healthy enough to enjoy our traditional Thanksgiving day hike together (even if it’s a short hike, to accommodate Otto’s limitations). And I’m grateful for you WDJ readers, for your support over the years. I hope you have a lovely day with your family and friends, human and/or canine. Give them an extra treat from us.

 

dogs hiking
We are looking forward to our Thanksgiving Day hike. ©Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

What Can Dogs Drink Besides Water?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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Grandmother With Granddaughter Sitting With Dog
Many of the beverages we enjoy should not be shared with our dogs. Tatiana Chekryzhova / EyeEm, Getty Photos.

Most of us love to share what we eat with our dogs. But what about sharing some of the healthier items that we drink? Let’s take a look at some of the more common beverages we may want to share with our dogs.

Can my dog drink almond milk?

Yes, dogs can drink almond milk in small amounts. Some brands of almond milk have a higher fat concentration or contain more sodium than others. A teaspoon for a small dog or a tablespoon for a large dog once a week should not negatively impact their overall caloric or sodium intake.

Avoid sharing chocolate flavored almond milk with your dog as this contains cocoa, a known toxin for dogs. Although most major brands of almond milk do not sweeten their products with xylitol, be sure to check the label of any sweetened product for this deadly canine toxin before sharing with your dog.

Can my dog drink coconut water?

Coconut water is low in calories and contains no fat. It is an excellent source of potassium but often contains added sodium. For healthy pups, a teaspoon for small breeds or a tablespoon for large breeds once a week should not pose a problem. Dogs with certain types of kidney disease, that have  hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease) or that are taking medications in the beta-blocker or ACE inhibitor categories should not drink coconut water because of the high levels of potassium.

Can my dog drink orange juice?

No, your dog should not drink orange juice. Orange juice contains a lot of citric acid that can cause stomach upset in your dog. Citric acid can also cause depression of the central nervous system. Add orange juice to the list of things not to share with your dog.

Can my dog drink cranberry juice?

No, your dog should not drink cranberry juice. Cranberry juice contains a lot of sugar, something your dog does not need in his or her diet.

Many people who ask this question are inquiring about the role of cranberry juice in treating or preventing urinary tract infections. If your dog is experiencing frequent urination or is straining to urinate, please seek veterinary attention immediately. Dogs who are experiencing chronic or recurrent urinary tract infections may benefit from taking a cranberry extract supplement. Talk to your veterinarian before starting any supplements for your dog.

My dog doesn’t drink enough water. How can I get my dog to drink more water?

Dogs should drink about one fluid ounce of water per pound of body weight per day. So, a 10 pound dog should drink about 10 fluid ounces of water per day.

Dogs who eat dog kibble may drink up to twice this amount and dogs who eat canned dog food may only drink a third of this amount. Canned dog food contains up to 70% moisture whereas dry dog food contains very little moisture.

If you think that your dog isn’t drinking enough water, try the following:

  • Wash the water bowls once a day.
  • Add more water bowls or change the location of the existing water bowls.
  • Give your dog a water fountain made for dogs and cats.
  • Add a flavor enhancer, such as bone broth made for dogs or Nulo Hydrate. Avoid bone broth and soup stock made for humans as these products tend to contain onion, garlic, and lots of sodium.

If you want to share a beverage with your dog but aren’t sure if it’s safe, chat with your veterinarian or consult one of the pet poison websites. ASPCA Poison Control has helpful articles at https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control and Pet Poison Helpline has great resources at https://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/pet-owners/.

How to Crate-Train an Older Dog

By
John Strassburger
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3
To crate train an older dog you must communicate that the crate is a safe protected place.
A well crate-trained dog considers the crate "his spot," a safe place where he can relax. Photo by Christine McCann.

Perhaps you adopted an older dog. Congratulations and thank you! Or you never crate-trained the dog you got as a puppy, and now he’s 4 or 5 years old and household requirements changed, causing him to sometimes be crated. Or maybe you adopted a second dog or puppy, and the senior dog needs to be crated when you feed the youngster.

These are a few of many reasons why you might need to teach your older dog to eat or sleep—or just stay—in a crate. It’s not hard, but it may require patience from you.

Basically, you must assure your dog that the crate is a safe, protected place to go. It’s a place where he can relax. It’s his place. Never crate him in anger; if you are upset about something he did, just use your “Go crate” cue and treat him for going into the crate. He will not associate the treat with what he did that you didn’t like; it’s for going in the crate on cue.

You need a crate that’s big enough for him to stand, lie down, and to move around. Large dogs need big crates, so be sure there’s room for that in your home. And the crate needs a soft, comfortable bed, not a towel tossed in for good measure.

It’s simple to use food or treats to teach him to go into his crate. Feed him his meals in the crate, with the door open so he can come and go as he chooses (it’s a good idea to bungee or tie the crate door so it doesn’t move around—and we’re not going to close it during initial training). We’re setting the crate up to be “his” place, one where he gets food, relax on a soft bed, and knows he can leave.

Use treats, and give him a cue like, “Go crate,” and place a treat just inside the door of the crate. You will increasingly toss the treat farther back in the crate. Let him go in, get the treat, and leave. Repeat this frequently. Note: It’s extremely important that you continue to reward him for going in the crate. Always and forever—even after he’s trained.

Once your dog is staying in the crate for a little bit (like 15 seconds) on his own, you can toss in a treat, let him go in, and shut the crate door. Take a step back, say “Good boy!” and open the door and give him a treat. Repeat this with gradually longer amounts of time and with you a little farther away from the door each time. Intersperse longer with shorter periods with the door shut.

Eventually, as you slowly build up the time he’s in the crate, you’ll see that he starts to relax, just waiting for his reward for being a good boy and quietly relaxing in his crate.

Dogs with separation anxiety are more difficult to teach to crate, and some of these dogs have injured themselves if they have an anxiety attack while crated. Get help from a professional fear-free or force-free trainer and discuss separation anxiety with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist. Some medications can help.

Note: There are crate alternatives for confining your dog, such as exercise pens (ex-pens), tethers, and so on. See “Creative Confinement: Dog Crate Alternatives.”

Common Puppy Diseases

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Cute labrador puppy dog getting a vaccine at the veterinary doctor
Nobody enjoys getting a shot, but proper vaccinations can protect against potentially deadly common puppy diseases. Credit: ilona75

“Puppy with parvo” and “puppy with distemper” are two phrases that strike fear in the hearts of dog lovers everywhere. These two puppy diseases have a high rate of mortality but are thankfully preventable with appropriate vaccinations.

Canine parvovirus, or “parvo,” causes the gastrointestinal tract to slough. Puppies with parvo have serious vomiting and diarrhea, with a characteristic foul odor to the diarrhea. (Once you smell it, you never forget the odor of parvo diarrhea; it is diagnostic.) Parvo puppies dehydrate rapidly and have little backup to compensate for the loss of incoming nutrients. While puppies with parvo can be saved, many die despite extensive and expensive supportive treatment, including immune serum and intravenous (IV) fluids.

Signs of distemper in puppies vary. A pus discharge from the eye, a cough, vomiting, diarrhea, and maybe some twitches or seizures are all possible indicators of a puppy with distemper. While these symptoms are associated with many illnesses, distemper is one of the few where all these signs can be seen in one pup. As with parvo, there is no definitive treatment. It’s supportive care. Unfortunately, puppies who pull through may be left with residual damage, such as recurrent seizures.

What’s most frustrating about parvo and distemper is that both these potentially fatal diseases are preventable with an appropriate vaccination schedule. Vaccinating puppies is tricky due to maternal antibodies. The wonderful protection from mom can interfere with puppies producing their own protective antibodies, which is why puppy vaccinations must be properly timed.

If you are lucky, your pup’s breeder did a nomograph. This information calculates when maternal antibodies will wear off for parvo and distemper based on the dam’s own titers. That way you know when you need to start your pup’s vaccination series. It might be as early as 6 weeks of age for parvo only if the dam is a nonresponder or you might be able to wait until 12 weeks old for the first in a series of two. Without that knowledge, most protocols suggest starting when the puppy is 8 weeks old and giving another dose at 12 and 16 weeks.

Kennel cough in puppies is slightly more complicated. Many different pathogens can cause the canine cough syndrome. These range from the benign parainfluenza virus, the bacteria Bordetella, and to the dangerous canine flu virus. While distemper and parvo are fairly ubiquitous, puppies need exposure to a coughing or sick dog to come down with a cough. Which vaccines are relevant for your puppy varies with his potential exposures. The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) has a cool link that helps you determine the right vaccinations for your puppy.

With milder forms of kennel cough in puppies, symptomatic care is often all they need. Usually, your puppy will sound worse than he feels. If this progresses to pneumonia, however, it becomes more serious. At that point, antibiotics for secondary bacteria, fluids to maintain hydration, and possible time in an oxygen cage may be necessary.

Leptospirosis in puppies is not common unless your pup has frequent exposures to water sources frequented by wildlife or vermin, like city rodents. Sniffing infected urine is also a possible point of infection. If your pup does get leptospirosis, it is very serious with potential permanent damage to his kidneys and/or liver. First signs are usually fever, pain, a reluctance to move, and generally some vomiting or diarrhea. Treatment is antibiotics, often with concurrent fluid therapy.

Leptospirosis is not considered a core vaccine—core vaccines are the ones recommended for all dogs—but your veterinarian can advise you about risks in your area and based on your pup’s lifestyle.

The bottom line is that a sensible vaccination program can keep your pup safe from the worst common illnesses in puppies. Plan the right schedule for your pup with your veterinarian.

When Can Puppies Take a Bath?

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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A puppy taking a bath in the kitchen sink
If you make the first time you bathe the puppy a positive experience, he’ll soon warm up to the idea. Credit: tdub303 / Getty Images

People often wonder at what age can you bathe puppies? Well, guess what. If a puppy needs a bath for its health and well-being, you can bathe them at any age, but drying young puppies well and keeping them warm is very important.

Examples of when to bathe a puppy for the first time depends depend upon the puppies and their life circumstances. If orphan puppies being hand-raised become soiled with urine or feces, they must be bathed to avoid life-threatening skin infections. Flea infestations on newborn puppies can cause life-threatening anemia, which means frequent bathing is necessary to remove adult fleas and any “flea dirt,” which contains eggs and larvae.

For the average puppy owner wondering when to bathe their puppy for the first time, if they are old enough to leave their mother and littermates, they are old enough to have a bath. Just give them time to settle in and feel confident in your home before considering a bath. And, if you want to be able to comfortably bathe them for the rest of their lives, be sure to make their first bath a pleasant experience! And always dry them and keep them warm.

How often can you wash your puppy? That depends on a couple of things. First, how dirty does your puppy get? If your yard is muddy and he’s out there romping and playing every day, he may require bathing every day. Second, does he develop dry white skin flakes and seem itchy after a bath? If yes, then you’re either bathing him too frequently or the shampoo you are using is too harsh for him.

I recommend using a shampoo specifically formulated for puppies. As far as how often to bathe, once a month is a nice, healthy bathing schedule for most puppies and adult dogs.

How to Tell if Your Dog Is Going Blind

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog getting an eye exam
If you suspect your dog is going blind, see your veterinarian, who will check his eyes for things like cataracts and possibly even check for disease, like diabetes, that may affect his eyes. Credit: Hillary Kladke / Getty Images

How do you know if your dog is going blind? That seems like a simple question, but it isn’t. While people are highly visual, dogs are excellent at using their other senses to compensate for a loss of vision.

The classic waving your hand in front of your dog’s eyes to test his vision reaction won’t work because dogs naturally react to moving air as well as any light change. You need to be an astute observer to notice early signs of blindness in dogs. You might notice that your dog is hesitant going from a lighted room into a dark one or doesn’t venture beyond the light in the yard at night.

The most common way people discover a dog is blind is when they rearrange the furniture or move deck chairs out in the yard and the dog blunders into them. Up until then, your dog was trotting freely through the house and even heading straight out to his favorite tree in the yard to pee. You wouldn’t think blindness, based on that. What happened, however, is that your dog has mental maps and scent trails that he uses to guide him. By moving things, you interfered with that map.

What can you do when your dog goes blind or has major vision loss? Start by NOT moving furniture inside or outside, as it interferes with his mental maps. Leave his bowls and beds in place. Until your dog is totally blind, you can flick lights on and off to help him get in from the yard at night.

Remember, his hearing is still working. Start using sounds to guide as soon as you suspect your dog is losing his sight. Repeated short whistles or chirps can help guide him back to you outside. Stay in one place when you do this so he can orient.

When walking, keep light tension on his leash or have him heel closely so he is touching your leg. If you have another dog (or cat, in some cases), the other pet will often act as a guide. Watch for your dog walking with his nose by another pet’s tail. Provide scent games and tracks to help keep your active dog and mentally stimulated.

If you suspect your dog is going blind, see your veterinarian. The sooner the better. Diseases like diabetes and cataracts can affect his vision and may be treatable.

A dog who has gone blind can live a full, happy life, if we just work with the senses he has left, especially hearing and scent, and don’t move things around. Animals accept what life throws at them, so as long as your dog knows where things are—especially food, water, and his bed—he is happy just to still be with you.

Signs a Dog Is Going into Labor Soon

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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0
nativity, puppy
Each puppy is born with its own placenta, and it could be up to four hours between puppies. Credit: 153photostudio / Getty Images

Recognizing signs a dog is going into labor soon is important. Your dog has three stages of labor in dogs with specific signs that help you know when your dog is in labor.

A dog’s gestation period—the length of time your dog is pregnant—is 63 days. Be aware, however, that it is not the breeding date that determines the 63 days. It is whenever the female dog ovulates, which can be several days away from the breeding date, making it difficult to pinpoint an exact due date.

When your dog is getting close to her approximate due date, start taking her temperature with a rectal thermometer every day, at the same time every day. Normal temperature in dogs is 101 to 102 degrees. At about 24 hours before she goes into labor, her temperature will drop below 100 degrees. This is the best way to know it’s time to get ready for the big event!

Stage One Labor: This is when your dog’s uterine contractions are starting, even though you can’t see them. The mom will show signs of restlessness, panting, trembling, digging like trying to make a nest, lack of appetite, and maybe even vomiting. Be patient and supportive. This stage of labor can last a long time—up to 12 hours.

Stage Two Labor: This is when a puppy comes out. You will see the mom actively pushing, and there will be some clear discharge from the vulva. Active contractions/pushing usually only lasts about 30 minutes or so before a puppy is expelled.

Stage Three Labor: This is when the mom pushes the puppy’s placenta out. It could take 15 minutes after the puppy is born for the placenta to come out. Each puppy has its own placenta, so expect one per pup.

Your dog will alternate between Stages Two and Three until all the puppies are born. Sometimes the mom will rest between puppies. This rest period can last up to four hours between pups, so relax and try to stay calm.

Signs that your dog may be in trouble, and you should seek veterinary intervention include:

  • Active contractions lasting longer than 30 minutes with no puppy
  • More than four hours between pups
  • The mom appears to be in worsening pain with no pups coming

Believe it or not, most of the time everything goes just fine. Try to relax and enjoy this wonderful experience but stay alert and don’t hesitate to seek help if things aren’t going according to plan.

A Dog Owner’s Risks and Responsibilities

By
Nancy Kerns
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16
long dog nails
This dog was an evacuee from a fire in my area, and was temporarily housed in an emergency shelter where I volunteered. Those nails made it impossible for her to walk or even stand without pain! In the case of neglect like this, for a moment, I was happy that the fire forced this owner to bring the dog to a place where she was able to receive a nail trim. ©Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

I do things with my dogs practically every day that would make other dog owners frown with disapproval – and my friends and neighbors do things with their dogs that fill me with horror. The differences in how we live with and care for our dogs are vast and unquantifiable – and although the same could be said of the differences between how people raise their kids, I’ve noticed that dog owners are much more likely than parents to tell other dog owners – perfect strangers! – that they are doing things wrong with their dogs.

Of course, it’s a good thing for society if we care about how other beings are being treated – and even intervene in cases of cruelty or neglect. But I’m not talking about situations that rise to the level of blatant abuse; I’m talking about small daily practices that absolutely can have an effect on a dog’s health and well being and even lifespan – but the differences are small, unproven, and largely a matter of opinion.

There are a few things off the top of my head that I see people do with or to their dogs that I feel highly judgmental about:

  • Letting their dogs get super fat; maybe this should be “making their dogs super fat.”
  • Letting their dogs nails get super long.
  • Letting their tiny or small dogs ride on their laps in the driver’s seat.
  • Yanking, yanking, yanking their dog’s leash. Even more so if it’s attached to a choke chain or pinch collar.
  • Allowing their intact dogs to reproduce indiscriminately.
  • Keeping dogs on chains outdoors.
  • Keeping pet dogs outdoors 24/7 (there are some working dogs who are happiest living outdoors, but if you have a non-working dog that you originally got as a pet, but keep them outdoors all the time…what’s the point?).

Here are a few examples of things I do with my dogs that might horrify some of you:

  • I mostly feed them dry dog food.
  • I put Seresto collars on them if fleas have been found on one of my dogs or I’m going to be hiking in tick-infested areas.
  • My dogs rarely wear collars.
  • I do not always have my dogs restrained in a seat belt or crate in my car.
  • I sometimes tell my dogs, “No!”
  • I walk my dogs off-leash in places known to be home to rattlesnakes.
  • I sometimes allow my dogs to ride in the back of our pickup truck.

Okay, with that last one, I’m reaching a little. They only would be in the back of a truck for a very short distance on a dirt road, on our way to a trailhead in our local wildlife area, for example, and at a very slow speed. They enjoy this as much as any kid who has begged to ride in the back of a truck for a short distance under controlled conditions – probably more, given the way their noses go into overdrive, smelling all the wildlife smells. Even so, I have one friend who worries about this, and has admonished me on the way to a hike for allowing my dogs to do this – especially after hearing that one of my foster dogs once jumped out of the back of my moving truck. (For the record, we were only going about 5 mph on a dirt road with nobody else around for miles, and she immediately took off running for the lake that we were moving toward; she was fine!)

dog on back of truck
This is blatantly unsafe – a fatal accident waiting to happen, as well as an unlawful practice in California. The unsecured dog wouldn’t have a chance of staying on that toolbox if the truck had to swerve, or was hit by another car. ©Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

While I roll my eyes at my friend’s concern that my dogs could hurt themselves by jumping out of the back of the truck (at such slow speeds, and on a dirt road with no one else in plain sight for a half-mile), I myself have judged other people for having unrestrained dogs in the back of their trucks – on the highway, for sure, or even at 30 mph in town! Unrestrained dogs in trucks I’ve seen in regular town traffic – or, horrors, on the highway! – who are spinning in excitement, or running back and forth on a toolbox behind the cab, or running back and forth in the bed of a truck barking at other cars – yes, I’ve judged their owners! Because in my opinion, those dogs are at a high risk of falling off or out of the trucks, especially if the owner has to slam on the brakes, make a quick swerve to avoid hitting something, or if another driver runs a red light (for example) and runs into the truck with the loose dog. But those owners probably think my concern for their dogs is overblown, just like I think my friend’s concern for my dogs is excessive.

My “Never Would I Ever” Is Your “I Do That All The Time!” (and Vice Versa!)

I suppose that statistically, I could find some data to prove to the owners of unrestrained truck dogs that their dogs are at a real and quantifiable risk of falling out of the truck and being lost, injured, or killed. Any my friend might even be able to find data on injuries suffered by dogs who were allowed to jump heights that are equivalent to the back of my pickup truck. But what about practices that lack data that could confirm whether they are a danger?

The best example of this might be feeding your dog kibble. To hear it from some owners who feed a home-prepared or even a commercial fresh-food diet, dry dog food is tantamount to poison! And if they are not talking about dry food in general, they may be making strong statements about foods that contain a particular ingredient or come from a particular company or manufacturing plant. It should be obvious that there if there were any data to support the concept that dry food in general, or any specific dry food that’s on the market, actually kills dogs, it’s immediately removed from the market.

And to hear it from some veterinarians, the people who feed a home-prepared diet are the ones risking their dogs’ lives!

Anyway, my point is, there is no single correct way to feed, train, or care for our dogs. I may have strong opinions about some things, but I don’t think for a second that everyone should do as I do, or that people who do the things that I am horrified by should immediately turn over their dogs to the authorities. As long as a dog is not being overtly abused or neglected, we have to look the other way sometimes, and respect the fact that folks have the right to subject their dogs to conditions or risks that we might not – as difficult as that might be!

Are there things that you are judgmental about when it comes to other people’s dogs? When do you feel like you have to say something to them about it?

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