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Sucralfate May Help with GI Problems in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Sucralfate for dogs can help with a variety of canine stomach problems.
Sucralfate is available as a liquid or a tablet that you crush, mix with warm water, then give to your dog. Credit: Frazao Studio Latino | Getty Images

Sucralfate is a human medication used off-label in dogs for ulcers, vomiting, and irritations along the gastrointestinal tract from the mouth to the small intestine, potentially even as far as the colon. It can help with stomach ulcers, esophageal erosions, oral ulcers, and inflammatory bowel disease.

Brand names for sucralfate include Carafate and Sulcrate. This medication is a complex salt that acts by combining proteins in the irritated areas to provide a protective cover over erosions and ulcers so they can heal.

The drug separates into two compounds once in the stomach: sucrose octasulfate and aluminum hydroxide. Sucrose octasulfate coats injured tissues. Bile acids may be absorbed onto it, and it appears to stimulate mucosal production of prostaglandins. In these situations, the prostaglandins act to protect the cells on the stomach’s internal surface. Aluminum hydroxide helps with acid indigestion.

How to Give Your Dog Sucralfate

This prescription medication is available as tablets or a liquid. If you use tablets, you must crush them, such as with a small mortar and pestle, and mix them with warm water. The mixture can then be given with a plastic syringe in the corner of your dog’s mouth.

Give sucralfate on an empty stomach so the medication has access to the affected areas. Wait two hours after that before giving any other medications.

Due to its protective covering of the mucosa, sucralfate can interfere with the absorption of many medications. These medications include, but are not limited to, antibiotics such as fluoroquinolones and tetracyclines and antifungals like ketoconazole. In addition, fat-soluble vitamins and the thyroid medication levothyroxine will have decreased absorption, potentially requiring dosage adjustments.

Digoxin, a cardiac medication, will also have altered absorption. In addition, nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, or NSAIDs, will not be well-absorbed.

Ideally, sucralfate is used short term to allow for mucosal healing.

Sucralfate for Dogs Side Effects

Sucralfate should not be used in dogs who have constipation as it will exacerbate the problem (constipation is a potential side effect). Conversely, some dogs will experience diarrhea and loss of appetite. While the amount of aluminum is unlikely to cause serious problems, it would best to avoid sucralfate for use in dogs with known renal problems.

Allergic reactions such as hives or difficulty breathing and behavior changes are rarely seen. Lethargy is the most common behavior change seen.

Sucralfate is not as powerful as protein pump inhibitors such as omeprazole, which are recommended by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine for treating gastric ulcers and erosions. Sucralfate is not a true analgesic, so there is minimal pain relief, but it can help your dog who is vomiting and in discomfort by acting as a physical barrier.

My dogs had no problems when I used it short term, but crushing the pill and getting it to dissolve can be a challenge! (A good mortar and pestle is worth the investment.) Keep track of the dosage timing can also be tricky when dealing with your own work schedule. Consult the prescribing veterinarian with problems or concerns.

Signs of Heart Failure in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Knowing the signs of heart failure in dogs can lead to a better prognosis for an aging dog.
If your dog wants to sniff on your walk, let him! A snifari is fun! But, if your dog is oddly lagging behind you, it might be time to check for heart or other problems that are causing him to slow down. Credit: Vgajic | Getty Images

The first symptoms of congestive heart failure in dogs are subtle. Your dog may seem less active and not eating well. He may be coughing a bit. Don’t dismiss these signs as the dog is just getting old. These changes could indicate congestive heart failure, and the earlier it’s diagnosed the better the prognosis.

Other early signs of heart failure include:

  • Increased respiratory rate
  • Struggle to breathe, especially after any exercise
  • Moist cough, even at rest

More advanced symptoms of heart failure are:

  • Abdominal swelling/fluid retention (ascites)
  • Edema in their lower legs
  • Weight loss
  • Pale or bluish gums

Causes of Heart Failure in Dogs

The two biggest causes of congestive heart failure in dogs are mitral valve disease and cardiomyopathy.

Mitral valve disease is a degenerative condition that affects the valves that separate the chambers of the heart. When valves develop problems, blood can leak back into the chamber it was just pushed out of. This means less oxygenated blood gets to the tissues, forcing the heart to work harder to compensate.

Cardiomyopathy is a disease that affects the heart muscle. Depending on the exact scenario, the heart may stretch (dilated cardiomyopathy) or expand (hypertrophic cardiomyopathy). Both conditions make the heart less efficient, so, again, causing the heart to work harder. Tissues may be deprived of oxygen.

Congestive heart failure also may be due to genetic predispositions (such as mitral valve disease in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels), infections such as viral or bacterial myocarditis, or parasitic infections like heartworm. Certain diets may predispose some dogs to congestive heart failure as well.

Other causes of heart failure in dogs include hypertension, tumors, abnormal heartbeats, mitral regurgitation, and more.

Diagnosis of Heart Failure in Dogs

Whether found during a wellness exam or because you brought your dog in for a problem, your veterinarian may pick up a heart murmur (abnormal heartbeat) when listening to the dog’s heart. The vet may recommend chest X-rays, which may show enlargement in the heart. You may be referred to a veterinary cardiologist.

Diagnosing congestive heart failure is a combination of physical exam findings, radiographs or echocardiography (ultrasound/“sono”), and bloodwork, including a specific heart metabolite called NT Pro-BNP (see sidebar).

Cardiac Biomarker Blood Test

NT-Pro BNP or N-terminal fragment pro-B type natriuretic peptide is a cardiac biomarker detected in bloodwork. This biomarker has been used to diagnose heart disease to differentiate respiratory versus cardiac disease and to track progression and treatment of heart failure. It is a hormone produced by cardiac muscle cells when they are overstretched.

Stages of Congestive Heart Failure in Dogs

Veterinary cardiologists stage their patients to help track progression of the disease. Congestive heart failure cannot be cured in dogs, but their disease can often be controlled, providing them with good quality of life for months to years.

Five basic stages are generally recognized:

A: The dog presumed to be at risk. This could be a dog with a known genetic predisposition. At a minimum, these dogs should have annual physical examinations.

B1: The dog appears healthy, but a murmur has been detected, so they need periodic re-evaluations.

B2: These dogs also appear healthy, but in addition to a murmur, some changes in heart structure are evident on radiographs or echocardiography.

C: At this stage, your dog is showing clinical signs of congestive heart failure and is starting medical therapy (see treatment, below).

D: Dogs at stage D have congestive heart failure that medical therapies aren’t controlling. These dogs usually require hospitalization, often with supplemental oxygen, while your veterinarian works to get the symptoms under control.

Treating Congestive Heart Failure

Treatment for congestive heart failure often involves a bit of trial and error to come up with the exact treatment that works for your dog.

The first step is usually prescribing a diuretic such as furosemide (Lasix). Diuretics decrease blood volume and reduce venous pressure. These actions make it easier for your dog’s heart to beat and get oxygenated blood out to tissues in the body.

Furosemide is a relatively inexpensive oral medication, though it can also be given intravenously to a dog in crisis, along with the use of supplemental oxygen.

Other medications will vary with the underlying cause of the congestive heart failure:

  • Pimobendan is often given to help the heart work more efficiently.
  • ACE inhibitors dilate blood vessels so less resistance for the heart to pump against.
  • Antiarrhythmic drugs help control your dog’s heart disease.

Dietary Changes for Dogs with Heart Problems

Dietary changes may be recommended as well. A diet low in sodium can help some dogs, and all canine cardiac patients can benefit from supplementing omega-3 fatty acids, such as fish oil.

For some dogs, adding taurine to the diet may help. The associations of certain diets with dilated cardiomyopathy in dogs has not been clarified at this time, but your veterinarian may recommend changing diets if this is your dog’s diagnosis.

The most important thing about diets for dogs with heart disease is that your dog must like the food. Cardiac cachexia is a real thing. It’s when dogs lose weight and muscle mass related to heart disease, often from a loss of appetite. So, talk with your veterinarian as you may need to “fudge a bit” on feeding a strict cardiac diet, using toppers and other foods to help keep your dog eating.

Home Care for Heart Failure in Dogs

If your dog is diagnosed with congestive heart failure, try to minimize stress at home. This is not the time to add a puppy or have a huge family gathering. Try to keep to your basic routines as much as possible.

Continue your daily exercise but adjust as needed. You might need to shorten the length of walks or avoid places with steep hills. Adjust your pace to fit your dog. Do lots of snifari walks (“sniffer walks”) where your dog sets the pace and direction.

Learn your dog’s normal respiratory rate and how to monitor the rate. Normal ranges for resting rates in dogs can range from 10 to 30 breaths per minute or so. Small dogs have a higher rate than giant breeds. Most people count the breaths on their sleeping dog for 30 seconds, then multiply by two. If your dog’s resting rate increases or he is laboring to breathe, contact your veterinary clinic.

Congestive heart failure is no fun, but with care and a bit of luck, your dog can enjoy many more months or even years with you.

Famotidine for Dogs

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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0
Famotidine for dogs is an acid reducer that can help deal with certain stomach issues in dogs.
: Do not administer famotidine to your dog without discussing its use with your veterinarian. Credit: Snizhana Galytska | Getty Images

Famotidine is a stomach-acid reducer that is sometimes used “off label” in dogs. “Off label” means the medication is not approved by the FDA for use in dogs, but veterinarians may prescribe it. Famotidine is available as an injectable that can be administered at a veterinary hospital and an oral form that is available over the counter (OTC).

The best-known brand name is Pepcid-AC. There are also generic equivalents. Famotidine can be used in cases of stomach ulcers, esophagitis, gastritis, reflux disorders, disorders that result in hypersecretion of stomach acid (gastrinoma, systemic mastocytosis), and stomach issues related to kidney disease. However, you should have a diagnosis from your veterinarian before using this medication.

Famotidine Is Not an Antacid

Technically, famotidine is an H2 receptor antagonist that competitively inhibits histamine-induced gastric acid secretion from the stomach parietal cells. Antacids reduce existing stomach acids, while medications like famotidine reduce the amount of acid produced by the stomach. In general, this drug class has a good safety profile, and adverse effects are uncommon if therapeutic doses are administered.

Famotidine should not be used in dogs with a known hypersensitivity to it or other H2 receptor agonists. It should be used with caution in dogs with diminished kidney or liver function or heart disease. Dogs taking an anticoagulant should have prothrombin times monitored. Famotidine can also affect the absorption of other medications because it alters the normal acidity of the stomach.

Famotidine is 42 times more potent than cimetidine (brand name Tagamet) in reducing stomach acid secretion. Compared to omeprazole (brand name Prilosec), famotidine has a weaker effect in dogs. Given chronically over time, tolerance is known to develop, making famotidine less effective for prolonged therapy. If given twice daily, stomach acidity regresses to the untreated state by day 14.

After administration, peak concentration of famotidine in the blood is achieved within two hours. It does cross the placenta and distributes to the milk in nursing females. Famotidine is cleared out of the system via the kidneys.

Famotidine Dosage for Dogs

The recommended dosage is 0.5 to 1 milligram (mg) per kilogram (kg) of body weight—or about 0.25 to 0.5 mg per pound of body weight. It can be given by mouth or by injection every 24 hours. If given orally, it’s best given 30 minutes prior to a meal.

The over-the-counter version of famotidine come in 10 mg and 20 mg tablets. Be sure the famotidine you get for your dog contains no other active ingredients and that you administer accurate dosages, under the guidance of your veterinarian.

Overdosage via intravenous administration can result in vomiting, increased heart rate, and hypersalivation. Chronic overdosage via oral administration can result in mild weight loss. Overall, H2 antagonists have fairly wide margins of safety.

If you have a dog who you think would benefit from treatment with famotidine, please check with your veterinarian before administering it. If your dog is on other medications, they might be less effective due to the altered acidity of the stomach. Also, a dog who is not eating or vomiting might have a problem that cannot be solved with famotidine alone.

Oral Famotidine Dosage Chart for Dogs

Recommended dosage can be given every 24 hours by mouth.

Body Weight (lbs.)Famotidine Dosage
5 -102.5 mg
11 - 215 mg
22 - 4410 mg
45 - 6615 mg
67 -8820 mg
89 - 13230 mg
133 - 17640 mg

Barn Hunt for Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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2
Barn hunt for dogs is an all breed sport that allows dogs to exercise their hunting and tracking instincts.
This Airedale has found the tube with the rat in it and is indicating to her handler by tapping the top of the tube. Credit: Kate O’Connor

Want a fun sport that is physically and mentally exhausting for your dog, uses your dog’s instincts, and is filled with great camaraderie? Then you should try Barn Hunt for dogs! This sport is enjoyed by dogs of all ages, sizes, breeds, and mixes.

 

 

Barn Hunt Origins

In 2013, Robin Nuttall designed the sport of Barn Hunt to encourage people to indulge their dogs in a sport that appeals to dogs’ natural instincts. At the time her Miniature Pinschers were not allowed in AKC Earthdog events, and she wanted a fun test for their hunting instincts.

The Barn Hunt Association was formed and became an overnight success. Dogs need to register with the Barn Hunt Association to compete for titles. The association lists clubs where knowledgeable people can help you train your dog for Barn Hunt. They also have a listing of events in your area when you and your dog are ready to compete.

How to Play Barn Hunt

The basics are simple. A dog needs to hunt through a course of straw or hay bales to locate rats safely hidden in tubes. Along the way, the dog must climb up the bales and hunt for rat tubes. They also must negotiate a tunnel made using the bales.

Safety is important in Barn Hunt. The rats are in ventilated PVC tubes that keep them and the dogs safe but allow the dogs to use their natural skills (detecting the rat’s scent!) to find them.

Rules forbid dogs from roughing up tubes or knocking the tubes around. Ramps and steps help dogs achieve climbs, although owners need to take responsibility for controlling their dog’s kamikaze leaping desires from bale to bale or back to the ground.

Competing in Barn Hunt

To earn Barn Hunt titles, you must join the Barn Hunt Association. The cost is a one-time $32 fee.

The hardest part about learning to compete in Barn Hunt with your dog is reading your dog and knowing when he has found the tube with the rat. When he finds the correct tube, you need to call out “rat” and then restrain your dog so the rat wrangler can safely remove the tube. If you call rat inappropriately, your run ends.

Some tubes are filled only with litter (bedding from a rat cage), which can be tough on a beginner dog because there is scent. Others are empty. And, of course, there are tubes with a live rat in them. The number of each type of tube varies with the level you run. All tubes are tucked under slanted bales or tucked between bales and/or covered with straw. Tubes can be hidden on the ground or placed up on bales.

Barn Hunt Alert Signal

Each dog has his own alert signal. Some dogs bark. Some paw at the tube with the rat. Some try to grab the tube. And, unfortunately, some dogs seem to use telepathy, forcing you to learn the subtle signal. This is where your partnership comes in.

You also need to be able to guide your dog to be sure he does the climb and tunnel. As your dog passes into higher levels, tunnels become more complex, with multiple turns. That also means they are longer and quite dark, which can sometimes back a dog off. In addition, there is never a rat tube hidden in a tunnel so dogs who are truly into the hunt may avoid the tunnel since there is no reward of a find.

Competition Levels

Barn Hunt has multiple levels. All levels require your dog to find the rats and you to call out the find. Your dog must find the specified number of rats associated with each level, which ranges from 1 rat up to 5 rats at the highest levels. The dog must also do required bale climbs and tunnels, all with a set amount of time. Fastest run wins. A false alert, which is calling out “rat” at a point your dog was not indicating a live rat, is non-qualifying.

The first level is called Instinct. This entry level merely requires that your dog indicate which of three tied-down tubes contains a live rat versus being empty or filled with litter. This level requires indicate which one of three tubes has a rat in 1 minute.

At Novice level, your dog must go through a short tunnel of straw bales, climb on a bale and find the one rat hidden in the ring. You and your dog must work together so that all obstacles are completed. Novice requires that the dog find one rat, climb, and do a simple tunnel in 2 minutes.

From there, you move up to Open (find two rats, do a tunnel with one turn and climb in 2 minutes, 30 seconds), Senior (find four rats, climb, and do a tunnel with 1 or 2 turns in 3 minutes, 30 seconds), and Master (find one to five rats, climb, and do a tunnel with 2 or 3 turns in 4 minutes 30 seconds).

The Master level is tough because you don’t know how many rats are hidden. It will range from one to five. The course for this level is big, with more bales piled and spread, lots of fluff (loose straw to help hide tubes), and trickier tunnels with multiple turns. A course may also have a distance challenge with part of the course blocked off for you.

Barn Hunt Is Fun

If you’re new to Barn Hunt, attend a trial or two and observe the variety of dogs (and people, if you like people watching) who participate. At our local trials, we often have Great Danes and Chihuahuas plus everything between.

I have run 10 dogs in Barn Hunt: a Cirneco dell Etna, an Australian Shepherd, a Pembroke Welsh Corgi, and seven Belgian Tervuren. Each dog has had a different style of hunting and indicating rat tubes. My older Terv seemed to think the game was rather stupid because she did not get to chase, kill, and eat the rats. She had a superb sense of smell however, never once indicated falsely, and would calmly go around the ring and gently tap the rat tubes with her paw. Basically, she ran it like a scent-work exercise with the scent to find being rat.

Her son has been described as a “rat-seeking missile.” He flies around the ring at speed, grabs rat tubes wildly, and often places since he is so fast. I have no idea how he can smell so well on the run, but he does.

My youngest Terv and our Corgi both hunt primarily by sound. They check around the course, pause, and listen. If the ears come up and touch, while the dog stares intently, that is a rat tube.

The point is that each dog is truly different in how they hunt, although most use a combination of scent and sound. Through your partnership, you learn how to read your dog and figure out if they are just checking, or if they really found a rat tube.

Adopting a Dog from a Shelter

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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3
Adopting a shelter dog, a rescue dog, or another dog in need is a great way to make a friend for life.
Choosing the right shelter dog for your family starts with attraction, of course, but ask the shelter workers questions and describe the life you see for the dog within your family. Visit the dog several times in areas where you can interact with dog, so you get to know him or her. Credit: Bluecinema | Getty Images

Adopting a shelter or rescue dog is a great way to help a dog in need! But remember that your new companion may not have gotten the best start in life, so you will need to proceed slowly as you build your new life together. The hardest part about adopting a shelter pet is if the match doesn’t work. To avoid that, we have six important things to help you and your rescue or shelter dog adjust to becoming a family:

 

 

1.    Health Costs of Adopting a Shelter Dog

Shelters should have established protocols for evaluating each new dog’s health status and what care they need. Urgent health care needs such as injuries will be addressed, as well as some basic preventive care measures.

Every dog being adopted out from a shelter should have vaccinations based on their age. Additional boosters may be provided by the shelter, or you may need to get those through your own veterinarian.

If the dog is over 6 months old, it should also have been tested for heartworm at least once. Ask if this has been done and if heartworm prevention started right after the testing. Treating a heartworm infection is expensive and risky. If the shelter does not routinely test their dogs, consider offering to pay for the test before adopting so that you know if the dog is positive or not.

Most shelter dogs are spayed or neutered before being adopted out. The exception is young puppies. Some shelters may adopt these puppies out while still intact, but with a requirement to get them spayed or neutered after 6 months of age. Ask if the shelter will cover this procedure or reimburse part of the cost.

Most shelters now microchip their dogs and will provide you with the paperwork during the adoption process. Don’t forget to register the chip with your contact information! The shelter may do this for you, or you may need to contact the microchip company.

2.    Shelter Dog Personality May Change

One of the hardest parts about adopting a dog from a shelter is recognizing that shelters are not like typical family homes. Shelter staff do an amazing job of getting to know their dogs’ quirks and personality traits, but some of these things may shift when the dog has settled into a home environment.

On average, it takes three to six months for a dog to fully settle into their new home and to see their true personality. Some dogs may blossom quickly. Others may take longer to adjust. This is normal, especially if the dog has experienced a lot of turmoil and change throughout their life before adoption.

Ask the shelter if they have information from the dog’s previous owner, and talk to the staff member(s) who have spent the most time working with the dog you are interested in.

Consider:

  • How the dog interacts with people of different age, sex, and body type
  • How the dog interacts with other dogs—this may be different when kenneled, on a leash, or loose in a play yard
  • If the dog has been exposed to other animals, and how it went
  • How the dog interacts with food, and how he responds if others approach while eating
  • How the dog interacts with toys, and how he responds if others approach while playing
  • Response to loud noises
  • How much the dog has been handled for basic grooming, and if there are any areas that will need to be worked on (for example, a dog who is head shy, or one who hates having his paws touched)
  • The dog’s play style, like is he a rough-and-tumble body slammer, or does he prefer chase games?
  • How vocal the dog is

Asking a lot of questions during the adoption process gives you a foundation of who this dog is. Just keep in mind that some personality traits may shift when he leaves the shelter environment. These changes may be for the worse or for the better.

For any new dog, it is a good idea to start out feeding meals in a quiet, secure area where the dog won’t be bothered by other pets or family members. Food is a valuable resource for any dog, but especially to a dog who has experienced scarcity. Let him eat in peace to avoid issues with resource guarding. Once he has settled in and you have built a relationship, this may be able to change.

3.    Life Skills Can Vary

A shelter dog may have some basic household manners or none. This depends on how he was raised and how much consistency he has had in his life, plus how much the shelter staff have been able to work on.

For the most part, it is good to assume that you will need to treat your new dog like a puppy regardless of his actual age. This is especially true for house training. If the dog has only lived in a kennel or outdoor environment, he may have no concept of eliminating outside the house. Take him out for frequent walks, and praise and reward when he eliminates where he is should outside. Watch his behavior closely to learn his “tells” for when he needs to pee or poop.

Also do not assume that an adult dog won’t chew or destroy things when unattended in the house. Depending on his background, he may think that your house is just a fun playground for him to explore. “Puppy proof” your house and have a plan to keep him safely confined when you can’t be with him.

You may need to review or introduce all these life skills:

  • House training
  • Crate training (useful for house training and to preventing in appropriate chewing)
  • Walking on a leash
  • Respecting counters
  • Waiting at doors
  • Being handled for grooming care
  • Sit, down, and a reliable recall

4.    Unknown Background

For many shelter dogs, we have no information about their previous health history or the health and temperament of their parents and relatives. The shelter will provide you with any info that they do have, but this is unlikely to be comprehensive.

A shelter dog also may not have received proper socialization as a puppy and might not have gotten proper nutrition.

This is something to keep in mind as your new dog or puppy ages. Your puppy could be shy and fearful because she has had some bad experiences, or she could be shy and fearful because that is her genetic personality. Aggression can appear in adolescence and may be a passing stage or who that dog truly is. Malnutrition during growth can manifest as orthopedic and other problems later in life.

Inherited health issues may arise. It is unlikely that a shelter dog’s parents underwent health testing and evaluations before being bred, so your prospective dog could have amazing genes or terrible ones. Health issues ranging from hip dysplasia to allergies to heart defects are all possible.

That said, even a dog from a great breeder who keeps detailed notes on health and temperament can still develop surprises. That’s genetics! You just know a little more about what you might be getting yourself into with a dog from a known background vs. a dog from an unknown background.

5.    The Application Process

Each shelter will have its own application process before you can adopt a dog. This typically includes a questionnaire, one or more meet-and-greets, and a home check. Don’t be offended. The shelter staff just want to be sure that this dog will be a good fit for you and the dog. They want this home to be the dog’s forever home where they can thrive.

Some shelters have specific housing and experience requirements for new owners, such as requiring a fenced yard or having owned a dog before. These requirements may be flexible, but be polite and respectful when trying to negotiate.

If you already have a dog or other pets, allowing them to meet the prospective new family member is a good idea. Introductions between dogs should be made on neutral territory.

6.    Patience Required

Some shelter dogs quickly settle into their new home like they’ve been there their whole life, but most take time to adjust. Be patient, and have a plan to make your dog’s first few weeks calm and low stress.

For the best chance at success, try to:

  • Introduce family members and other pets gradually
  • Give the new dog a place to “escape” if he feels overwhelmed, such as a crate or a quiet room with his things
  • Skip the big welcome party (your dog can meet your friends after he has gotten to know you)
  • Feed meals in a quiet, secure area so your new dog isn’t afraid his food will be stolen
  • Test out leash-walking skills in your yard before trying neighborhood walks
  • Keep your dog at home for a few days to settle in before taking him on day trips
  • Schedule an appointment with your vet to get your dog established and identify any preventive care that he might need continued or added

Acid Reflux in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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0
Acid-reflux in dogs is a serious issue that requires a vet visit.
If your dog is showing symptoms of acid reflux—such as regurgitation, reduced appetite, and difficulty swallowing—a visit to the vet is in order. Credit: Jaromír Chalabala | Getty Images

Acid reflux, also known as Gastroesophageal Reflux Disease (GERD), is a painful condition in people—and in dogs. Proper diagnosis of this condition in dogs can be challenging because unlike in people, dogs cannot tell us when or where they hurt or the type of pain they are experiencing.

 

 

Symptoms of Acid Reflux in Dogs

Symptoms of GERD in dogs include regurgitation, decreased appetite, difficulty swallowing, and acting uncomfortable. Some dogs with GERD may have a chronic cough. You may also notice that your dog’s bark sounds different than it used to. One of the classic symptoms experienced by dogs with GERD is that they are more likely to regurgitate than vomit (see sidebar). However, conditions that cause chronic vomiting may lead to the development of GERD.

When is a Dog Vomiting vs. Regurgitating?

There is a difference between regurgitating and vomiting. Regurgitating is the expulsion of food or water from the esophagus that has not yet made it to the stomach. Vomiting is the expulsion of food and water from the stomach and small intestine.

One of the first signs you may notice with vomiting is that your dog is licking his lips. This is followed by heaving and abdominal contractions. Then your dog will vomit. Regurgitating is a passive process—your dog will suddenly open his mouth and expel food or water. There is no warning that your dog is about to regurgitate.

Knowing the difference between if your dog is vomiting and regurgitating can be a challenge. Take a video of your dog as he is bringing up food or water and show it to your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will help you determine if your dog is regurgitating or vomiting.

What is GERD?

GERD occurs when contents of the stomach flow backwards through the lower esophageal sphincter into the esophagus. The lower esophageal sphincter is a muscular valve that sits between the end of the esophagus and the start of the stomach. This valve opens to allow the passage of food and water from the esophagus to the stomach. The valve closes once food and water have passed into the stomach.

Conditions that either allow or force the opening of the lower esophageal sphincter when there is no food or water trying to pass into the stomach may cause GERD. An open lower esophageal sphincter allows stomach acid to enter the esophagus from the stomach. This harms the mucosal lining of the esophagus.

The lining of the stomach is protected from the caustic nature of stomach acid by a layer of mucus. The esophageal lining does not have this protection. Stomach acid is irritating to the esophageal mucosal lining, leading to the pain and burning sensations that people typically associate with heartburn.

Diagnosing GERD in Dogs

Your veterinarian will start with baseline blood work and radiographs of the thorax and abdomen if she suspects that your dog has GERD. She may also recommend a therapeutic trial of feeding four small meals per day, feeding a low-fat diet, and two weeks of giving sucralfate and omeprazole to see how your dog responds. If the symptoms of GERD persist or do not improve, then she may recommend seeing a veterinary internist (internal medicine specialist).

An internist may recommend an endoscopy to examine the lining of the esophagus and the stomach. Biopsy samples of abnormally appearing esophageal and gastric mucosa may be obtained during endoscopy and submitted for histopathology.

Measuring the pH of the esophagus just north of the lower esophageal sphincter can be helpful in diagnosing GERD. A pH meter can be temporarily implanted in the lower esophagus using an endoscope. The pH meter transmits data to a recording device attached to your dog’s collar. You will be asked to push a button on the recording device when you notice your dog exhibiting symptoms of GERD. You will also be asked to write down the symptoms you observed in a log.

The pH meter naturally detaches from inside the esophagus after about 7 to 10 days. It is small and will move through your dog’s gastrointestinal tract over the next several hours. Your dog will pass the pH meter in his stool.

Other advanced imaging may include a barium study or fluoroscopy. A barium study can be useful in visualizing strictures or tumors of the esophagus. Fluoroscopy is a live-action series of x-ray images. This is used to perform a swallowing study to see how your dog moves food through his esophagus.

Treating Canine GERD

Treatments for GERD include resolving the irritation of the esophagus and treating the underlying cause. Esophageal irritation can be eased by coating the damaged mucosal lining with a medication called sucralfate (also known as carafate). Sucralfate selectively binds to damaged mucosa and protects it from stomach acid while the mucosa heals.

Medications that reduce the acidity of stomach acid may also be prescribed. Famotidine (also known by its brand name, Pepcid) is often prescribed because it is inexpensive, available over the counter, and can be given either on an empty stomach or with a meal. But famotidine may not be as effective as omeprazole (also known by its brand name, Prilosec) in treating GERD.

Famotidine begins to decrease the acidity of stomach juices within a few hours of administration. But its effectiveness begins to wane after several days of taking famotidine. In one study, the effectiveness of famotidine was cut nearly in half by the twelfth day of receiving this medication.

Omeprazole takes about 3 to 5 days to reach its full effectiveness at reducing stomach acidity. This medication is more effective at reducing the acidity of stomach juices than famotidine. But long-term use of omeprazole has been shown to have serious side effects in people. More studies are needed to determine if our canine companions suffer from the same long-term side effects as people.

It is generally recommended to limit the use of omeprazole to a duration of 3 to 4 weeks in dogs. Abrupt discontinuation of omeprazole after receiving it for 3 to 4 weeks has been shown to cause a rebound acidity in the stomach. Dogs should be tapered off omeprazole if they have been receiving it for this long.

Omeprazole may cause elevations in liver enzymes. Use of omeprazole with some medications may increase the length of time these medications remain active in a dog’s body. Diarrhea is also a potential side effect. In addition, omeprazole may inhibit the absorption of medications that require an acidic environment in the stomach to activate.

Other treatments for GERD will depend on the underlying cause. Any condition that causes chronic vomiting or decreased gastrointestinal motility can lead to the development of GERD. More specific conditions that can cause GERD include:

  • hiatal hernia
  • esophageal tumors and strictures
  • esophageal motility disorders
  • Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS)
  • undergoing anesthesia

Many of the drugs used while a dog is anesthetized for a surgical procedure may relax the lower esophageal sphincter. This allows stomach acid to enter the esophagus and cause GERD. These episodes of GERD typically last only a few days and are treated with a 7 to 14 day course of omeprazole and sucralfate.

Hiatal Hernias

A hiatal hernia is when part of the stomach enters the thoracic cavity (also known as the chest). The esophagus starts in the throat, travels through the thoracic cavity, and enters the abdominal cavity through a portal in the diaphragm. The diaphragm is the muscle that separates the thorax and the abdomen. The diaphragmatic portal through which the esophagus travels is called the esophageal hiatus.

A ligament originating from the diaphragm encircles and attaches to the esophagus just above the lower esophageal sphincter. The lower esophageal sphincter is located just within the abdominal cavity, south of the esophageal hiatus. If this ligament is lax or becomes stretched, then the lower esophageal sphincter enters the thoracic cavity. Sometimes a part of the stomach can also enter the thoracic cavity through the esophageal hiatus.

A lower esophageal sphincter that is inside the thoracic cavity has less pressure applied to it. The sphincter is more likely to stay open without sufficient pressure applied. Most hiatal hernias are congenital, meaning that a dog is born with the condition. Congenital hiatal hernias can occur in any breed of dog but are more prevalent in Shar Peis and English Bulldogs.

Hiatal hernias can also occur in brachycephalic breeds secondary to BOAS. Trauma can also cause a hiatal hernia but this is rare. Trauma (such as being hit by a car) is more likely to cause a different type of hernia called a diaphragmatic hernia.

GERD secondary to a hiatal hernia can be managed with a medication called cisapride. Cisapride increases the muscular contractions of the esophagus and increases the strength of the lower esophageal sphincter. Sucralfate and omeprazole can be used as needed. Some dogs with hiatal hernias may continue to experience GERD despite medical management. These dogs may benefit from surgical intervention.

Esophageal Motility Disorders

Brachycephalic dogs are more likely to have an esophageal motility disorder that can lead to the development of GERD. Dogs with an esophageal motility disorder move food through the esophagus at a much slower rate. This leaves the lower esophageal sphincter open for a longer period of time. Cisapride or metoclopramide are the medications commonly used to treat this disorder.

Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS)

Dogs with BOAS are susceptible to developing GERD. These dogs have one or more anatomical obstructions in their upper airway that decrease pressure within the thoracic cavity. This change in thoracic cavity pressure may relax the lower esophageal sphincter and cause GERD. Dogs with BOAS are also more likely to develop a hiatal hernia secondary to episodes of severe respiratory distress.

Dogs with BOAS are more likely to have several problems related to their respiratory and gastrointestinal systems. Surgical intervention to address anatomical abnormalities of their upper airways—including narrow nostrils, elongated soft palate, and everted laryngeal saccules—may improve their quality of life and minimize the risk of developing secondary problems like GERD.

Seek Veterinary Treatment GERD Symptoms

Talk to your veterinarian if you suspect that your dog has GERD. There are other conditions that mimic the symptoms of GERD. Proper diagnosis is necessary to determine the correct treatment plan. Treating your dog on your own with over-the-counter antacids like Pepcid and Prilosec can do more harm than good. Most dogs with GERD have a good prognosis with proper treatment.

No, You Can’t

By
Nancy Kerns
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28
Doggy bags should never be put in a strangers trash can.
People sure are defensive about keeping their garbage cans free of random poop-bag deposits made by passerby dog-walkers. Credit: Kinga Krzeminska, getty Images

Of all the “third rail” topics concerning dogs, here’s one I never could have guessed would make some people incensed: A passerby putting a bag of dog poop in their garbage can. Ack! Apparently, this makes some homeowners angry enough that they put signs on or next to their garbage cans, set up security cameras in order to identify and eventually confront the offenders, or threatening penalties for the alleged “theft of services” (using someone else’s garbage service).

Personally, I can’t imagine getting upset enough about someone putting a bag of even very smelly dog poop in my trash can—but I have to admit that the only time this might even be possible is on trash pickup day, when my garbage bin is out on the street and accessible to passersby. And while it would not be very nice if someone dropped stinky poo in the bin after the garbage truck had emptied the bin—so it would conceivably stink up the bin for another week—I don’t have my bins close enough to my house that I risk smelling that smell, except for the second or three that it takes to put other bags of garbage in there. But I live in a rural area, so I guess I’m spoiled.

My son and his wife had a baby late last fall, and I’ve been visiting them at least once monthly in the eastern part of the San Francisco Bay Area where they live. One of the few ways I can make myself useful to them as they adjust to live as new parents is to walk their dog, Cole, catching him up on exercise he’s been missing on the days with higher levels of baby maintenance. We’ve also gone for family walks, with my son or his wife carrying baby Maddie in a soft wrap or pushing her in a stroller. We were on one such walk when, after I had picked up one of Cole’s poops and was about to put it in someone’s garbage bin that was waiting at the curb to be picked up, my son stopped me. “Mom!” he said. “You can’t do that here! Someone will probably come out of the house and yell at you!”

We spent the rest of the walk talking about all the tactics he had seen deployed in his and his friends’ neighborhoods—tactics that people are using to keep dog-walkers from putting dog poop in their garbage. As we walked, my son pointed out signs, security cameras, locks on the garbage bins, and locked cages that secure the bins in his neighborhood. Yowsa! There was a war going on that I was not even aware of!

I guess it makes sense, particularly in urban areas where the density of dogs being walked daily is very high—and where your garbage bin is very likely stored in your garage, or right next to your home and possibly even under a window.

I don’t particularly enjoy carrying dog poop for the rest of a walk—especially if I’m walking more than one dog, or the dog is like Cole, who seems to go to extra trouble to force himself to poop at least three times on every walk, even if the last one is just the size or a grape. But the answer for me is to simply carry a “poop pack-out” bag: one of the new-generation odor-containing bags that enable you to carry several bags of poop securely and without smelling it, until you get home and can dispose of the poop in your own garbage bin.

We first recommended one of these products in WDJ’s Gear of the Year 2024. I ordered one on the strength of our veterinarian reviewer, who walks two large dogs daily and said she could fit the waste of both dogs in the Olive & Odin Poop Pouch. I was skeptical that the bag would truly work to completely contain the odor, but it did! I once carried the bag in a large fanny pack on a long hike, and had to occasion to put not one but two bags of dog poop in the bag. Once home, I accidentally left the fanny pack, with the dog-waste bag inside it (and the dog poop bags inside that), in my car for over a week—and never smelled a thing! These bags use an odor-containing technology that truly traps the foul odor of poop in the bag.

At the time of our review, I wasn’t aware of this type of product at all. Today, there are at least a dozen competing products on the market, including ones by Ruffwear and Kong.

The only problem with these bags is that none of them seem to come with a carrying strap; one needs to put them inside a backpack or fanny pack or fasten them somehow onto the belt for your treat-carrying pouch, or just resign oneself to carrying them by the strap used to close them. Despite this minor inconvenience, they certainly do make it more pleasant (less unpleasant) to carry home several (or one very large) bag full of dog poop for disposal in your own garbage bin.

Hyperthyroidism in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Hyperthyroidism in dogs is rarer than hypothyroidism and results in a dog's metabolism speeding up.
If you find your dog’s water bowl is empty more frequently than normal, it’s time for a vet check. It could be a sign of hyperthyroidism. Credit: Microman6 | Getty Images

Any symptoms of thyroid disease in your dog are cause for concern. The thyroid gland is a master gland that influences your dog’s metabolic processes. Abnormalities may affect your dog’s weight, activity level, and even your dog’s heart rate.

The two main types of thyroid problems are hypothyroidism (underactive thyroid), which is common in dogs, and hyperthyroidism (overactive thyroid), which is common in cats. That doesn’t mean hyperthyroidism can’t occur in dogs. It does, and it shouldn’t be ignored.

Old Dog Thyroid Symptoms

Dogs suffering from the more common hypothyroidism (low thyroid hormones) are usually lethargic, overweight (possibly with odd fat deposits), abnormal hair loss, dry skin, and a greater susceptibility to infections, like ear infections.

With hyperthyroidism, the dog’s metabolism speeds up. You may notice your dog drinking more water (and increased urine), losing weight, constipation, and showing signs of increased activity. With the dog’s overall metabolism too high, many of the dog’s body systems are affected. Some dogs will vomit and have diarrhea along with an increased appetite.

With an abnormal increase in thyroid hormones (hyperthyroidism), your dog may seem restless or even downright hyperactive. This is especially noticeable partly because most dogs with hyperthyroidism are seniors, so just when you expect them to be slowing down, these dogs are revving up.

The heart is also affected. Hyperthyroid dogs may have arrhythmias (irregular heartbeats) or simply a rapid heart rate (tachycardia). Both abnormalities are serious concerns that can have severe consequences.

Diagnosing Hyperthyroidism in Dogs

Bloodwork is the gold standard for diagnosing hyperthyroidism. Many blood panels look at T4 (the thyroid hormone thyroxine) levels as part of the panel. An increase in T4 would be the marker for disease.

If your dog’s T4 is high, more specialized tests are often recommended, such as a full thyroid panel, which includes additional thyroid hormones, including T3 (triiodothyronine), TSH (thyroid stimulating hormone), and TGAA (thyroglobulin autoantibodies).

Causes of Hyperthyroidism in Dogs

One cause of hyperthyroidism is an incorrect dosage of medication given for hypothyroidism. This is why regular checks on thyroid levels are important for dogs on levothyroxine, a medication given to hypothyroid dogs. The veterinarian may need to adjust the hypothyroid dog’s dose.

Dogs can have thyroid cancer. The thyroid gland is located on the dog’s neck in the midline, with lobes on both sides of the trachea. A palpable enlargement is indicative of a tumor and requires further testing.

Most thyroid tumors in dogs are carcinomas. Typically, these cancers do not lead to excess production of thyroxine, but they can cause hyperthyroidism. Breeds suspected of having genetic predisposition for hyperthyroidism include Siberian Huskies, Golden Retrievers, and Beagles.

One study found a link between hyperthyroidism in dogs and a raw meat diet.

Surgery Can Be Curative

If your dog has a thyroid mass, surgery is your best bet, barring any metastatic disease, with the average dog surviving three years after diagnosis.

Your veterinarian may refer your dog to a board-certified surgeon because it is crucial to protect the tiny parathyroid glands that are attached. These glands control calcium regulation. If they are damaged, your dog will need additional medications.

Both thyroid glands are often removed. Most of these dogs will require thyroid supplements for the rest of their lives. Luckily, these medications are fairly inexpensive.

Other suggested treatments include medications to reduce thyroid hormone production and low-iodine diets since thyroid hormones require iodine, but these options have not been very successful. (The radioactive iodine treatment commonly used for hyperthyroid cats is not routinely used for dogs.)

Can Dogs Eat Cicadas?

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Dogs can eat cicadas, but they shouldn't do so in large numbers.
With their chunky black bodies, bright red eyes, orange wings, large size, and hard exoskeletons, cicadas look like insects from a science fiction movie. They emerge from 13 or 17 years of underground dormancy to spend a month buzzing, mating, laying eggs, dying, and in some cases being eaten by dogs. Credit: Derek Dailey / 500px | Getty Images

 Cicadas are not poisonous to dogs, but it’s a good idea to discourage pups from playing with or swallowing large numbers. If you live where cicadas will hatch this spring, start now to work on “leave it” cues, on-leash manners, and other strategies that will help when cicadas capture your dogs’ attention.

 

 

 

Where Will Cicadas Hatch This Year?

Periodical cicada Brood XIV will emerge this spring in Georgia, Kentucky, Indiana, Massachusetts, Maryland, North Carolina, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Virginia, and West Virginia. These cicadas are a 17-year Magicicada species last seen in 2008. Cicadas typically emerge in April, May, or June, when soil 8 inches deep reaches 64 degrees Fahrenheit (17.8 degrees Celsius), often after a warm rain, and when tree leaves are fully developed. Cicadas are remarkable insects, and to appreciate their life cycles, see this BBC report with Sir David Attenborough. The Cicada Mania website maintains a list of counties that will see cicadas in 2025.

Why Do Dogs Eat Cicadas?

For most dogs in affected areas, cicada eruptions are a once-in-a-lifetime event. Cicadas interest dogs because they smell appetizing, are a source of protein, move in ways that attract a dog’s prey drive, make intriguing noises, and have a crunchy texture.

Are Cicadas Dangerous to Dogs?

A single cicada or even a few won’t hurt your dog but too many can cause gastrointestinal symptoms such as nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and abdominal discomfort. Dogs can experience a local irritation from tiny hair-like structures on the legs of cicadas, which in some cases cause intense itching. Although allergic reactions are rare, some dogs develop anaphylactic shock symptoms. Because cicadas are biologically similar to shellfish, dogs with shellfish allergies may have a similar reaction to cicadas.

Their size, shape, wings, and exoskeletons make cicadas a potential choking hazard for dogs, and if they emerge in an area recently treated with pesticides or other chemicals that are harmful to dogs, they may carry residues of that exposure.

How Can You Keep Your Dogs Safe?

If you live where cicadas will emerge, plan to keep a close eye on your dogs, especially young, curious puppies. Cicadas congregate in shrubs, trees, and on fences, so change walks to avoid those areas as needed. Supervise your dogs’ outdoor activities, keep them on leash where cicadas or their exoskeletons proliferate (there can be over a million cicadas per wooded acre in high-density areas), and be ready to redirect your dog’s attention with treats or games.

What Should You Do with Dead Cicadas?

To prevent problems, act quickly if dead cicadas or their shells litter your yard. Use a dustpan and hand-held broom, rake, or even a snow shovel to collect cicada debris, which can be buried or discarded in sturdy trash bags. If your dogs aren’t interested in cicadas, those steps won’t be necessary, and allowing cicadas to decompose is an easy way to fertilize your yard. According to gardening experts, adding cicadas to compost adds high-quality food for beneficial bacteria and soil fungi.

What If Your Dog Eats Cicadas?

According to Mark Freeman, DVM, Clinical Assistant Professor at the Virginia-Maryland College of Veterinary Medicine at Virginia Tech in a May 2021 press release, gorging on cicadas can be risky for dogs. “As a general rule,” he said, “a pet can eat several cicadas without any complications. Most dogs find them quite fascinating and will happily pick them up in their mouths. Once pets discover how delightfully crunchy they are, they will also happily eat them. And then eat more and more of them.”

This is when problems develop, he explained, because too many cicadas can create gastrointestinal upsets and even the possibility of an intestinal obstruction.

If your pet gorges on cicadas, Dr. Freeman recommended seeing your veterinarian as soon as possible to establish an appropriate treatment plan based on the severity of clinical signs that develop.

“A little vomiting and diarrhea can be managed relatively easily,” he said, “but severe GI pain or possible obstruction requires a much more aggressive intervention. For dogs who ingest only a few cicadas, the risk is very low for complications or for treatment to be necessary.”

Why E-Collar Dog Training Is Not Recommended

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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7
E-collar dog training is not recommended by most expert trainers, as it can traumatize the dog.
Research suggests that e-collar training can cause unnecessary harm to dogs, increasing the potential for stress, anxiety, fear, and aggression. Credit: Vera Aksionava | Getty Images

E-collars are dog-training devices used to deliver several stimuli to the dog wearing the collar, including auditory, vibration, and electric shock. There are several e-collar devices available: remote-controlled, noise-activated, and “fenceless” containment systems. The collars are designed to pair the auditory and/or vibration stimulus with the delivery of the shock so that dogs learn to avoid the electric stimulus by performing the desired behavior. E-collars have been used in dog training since the 1960s and remain controversial today, having been banned in many countries.

The E-Collar Dog Training Debate

With the rise of social media and dog training “influencers,” e-collars have gained more traction due to a resurgence in their popularity. In addition, a number of scientific studies conducted over the past 20 years have investigated the efficacy, benefits, and drawbacks of training dogs with e-collars.

Opponents of e-collars argue that they cause pain, are no more effective than humane, reward-based training methods, and negatively impact welfare (Blackwell & Casey, 2006; Schilder & van der Borg, 2004).

Supporters of e-collars argue that pain experienced during training is not the worst possible consequence for dogs and that the devices are a valuable training aid for addressing problem behavior such as predatory chasing and poor recall (Johnson & Wynne, 2024). Supporters of e-collars believe they “saves lives” by addressing problem behavior that would otherwise lead to euthanasia.

The Problems With E-Collar Dog Training

Despite claims that modern e-collars can be used at low levels without causing harm, research and expert consensus overwhelmingly caution against their use due to significant welfare concerns.

The Impact of Pain, Discomfort, and Fear on Learning and Behavior

E-collars rely on aversive stimulation to suppress undesired behavior, and research has shown that punishment-based methods can cause stress, fear, and pain, which can negatively impact learning and behavior. For example, studies comparing dog training with a shock collar to positive reinforcement methods found that dogs trained with e-collars showed more stress behaviors such as lip licking, yawning, and lowered body posture (Cooper et al 2014).

In a study by Schilder & van der Borg (2004), behavioral responses from dogs during a training sessions that had a history of e-collar training were compared to a group of dogs who had not previously been trained with an e-collar. The researchers observed that the dogs who had previous e-collar training showed more signs of stress and had presumably learned to associate their owner with receiving shocks, even outside of the normal training context. They concluded that shocks received during training are not only unpleasant but also painful and frightening and that the welfare of dogs trained with e-collars is at stake.

Do Tone and Vibration Features Have a Place in Training?

Manufacturers of e-collars often claim that the tone and vibration settings provide a “non-aversive” way to gain a dog’s attention, serving as a neutral signal or recall cue. These claims suggest that vibration or auditory signals can replace positive reinforcement training methods by offering a quick and reliable way to communicate with dogs. However, there is little scientific evidence to support the idea that these cues are inherently neutral or positive from the dog’s perspective. Instead, their effectiveness often relies on the same principles of avoidance learning and negative reinforcement that make shock training problematic.

Another issue with tone and vibration training is that it assumes all dogs perceive these stimuli in a uniform way. However, behavioral science emphasizes that learning and emotional responses are highly individual and context dependent. This means that some dogs may habituate to vibration or tone cues, whereas others may experience increased stress, confusion, or even fear-based reactions.

Ethical Considerations and Welfare Implications

The use of shock collars in dog training raises a number of ethical concerns about the humane treatment of our canine companions. Indeed, prominent veterinary, animal behavior, and animal welfare organizations have taken a position against e-collar use in recent years, stating that the stress, anxiety, fear, and potential for aggression caused by e-collars are too great for e-collars to be a recommended training tool. Furthermore, e-collars have been banned or heavily restricted in many countries and states across the world due to animal welfare concerns.

Why Fear-Free Dog Trainers Don’t Use E-Collars

Fear-free dog trainers don’t use e-collars because they recognize the adverse effects these devices can have on dog behavior, learning, and welfare. Instead, fear-free trainers focus on the use of good management practices, positive reinforcement, keeping dogs under threshold for fear and anxiety, and training with consistency rather than looking for a “quick fix.”

Science-Backed Alternatives to E-Collar Dog Training

Modern behavioral science overwhelmingly supports the use of positive reinforcement training as the most effective and humane method for modifying behavior in dogs. Numerous studies show that reward-based training leads to improved learning outcomes, better welfare, and a stronger human-animal bond. In contrast, aversive training methods like e-collars increase fear, anxiety, and aggression (Ziv, 2017; de Castro et al., 2020).

For example, China et al (2020) found that reward-based training was more efficient than methods that included potentially aversive stimuli such as electric stimuli. They concluded that the professional use of a reward-focused training regime was superior to e-collar training and that an e-collar is unnecessary for effective recall training. Given the additional potential risks to the animal’s wellbeing associated with use of a shock collar, they concluded that dog training with these devices causes unnecessary suffering due to the increased risk that a dog’s wellbeing will be compromised through their use without good evidence of improved outcomes.

Positive reinforcement is considered the gold standard because research shows dogs trained with rewards are more engaged, retain learned behavior for longer, and exhibit less stress-related behavior.

Other science-backed alternatives to e-collar training include:

  • Capturing – The dog offers the desired behavior and is reinforced.
  • Luring and targeting – Food or a target is used to guide the dog to perform the desired behavior.
  • Differential reinforcement – Alternative, more desirable behavior is reinforced in favor of the problem behavior (for example, sitting instead of jumping up).
  • Good management – Preventing rehearsal of unwanted behavior through proactive management (e.g., baby gates) to help set dogs up to succeed.

The Future of Dog Training Without E-Collars

A growing body of research on dog behavior, training, and welfare suggests that reward-based training is not only generally better for dog welfare and dog-owner interactions but is also proving more effective than aversion-based training for successful training outcomes.

E-Collars have the potential to cause unnecessary harm to dogs and that is why their use has been banned in many countries to date. Prioritizing positive reinforcement training and avoiding e-collars and other harsh training tools leads to better welfare and a stronger, more trusting bond between dog and owner.

 

Can My Dog Have Down Syndrome? (and Other Questions About Dog Genetics)

By
Joan Merriam
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3
Dogs cannot have down syndrome, but they can other conditions that have a superficial resemblance.
Although dogs can’t have Down Syndrome, they can have genetic conditions—such as canine congenital hypothyroidism, pituitary dwarfism, and congenital hydrocephalus—that may appear similar. Credit: Nan Liu | Getty Images

We all know that our dogs can be afflicted with many of the same diseases and conditions that we humans suffer from: the flu, allergies, GI upsets, and—at least for me—the possibility of stumbling over or slipping on an object and ending up with something like a torn ligament. Then there are the diseases with genetic components like certain cancers, epilepsy, kidney disease, and diabetes, just to name a few.

But there are some conditions—especially genetic ones—that are unique to humans. One of them is Down Syndrome. So, the answer to the question in the title is: No, dogs cannot have Down Syndrome.

Why Doesn’t Down Syndrome Affect Dogs?

The answer lies in genetics, which is how traits are passed down from one generation to the next. These traits are found in DNA, chromosomes, and the genome. DNA is the molecule in the cell nucleus that contains genetic instructions for all living organisms. Chromosomes, which come in pairs (one from the father and one from the mother) are comprised of DNA and a protein. All of an organism’s genes make up the genome, which is unique to each organism.

Genetically, we have many similarities with our dogs—in fact, we share almost 85 percent of our DNA with dogs—but there are also some very important differences. The main difference is that dogs have 39 sets of chromosomes (78 in total), while humans have 23 sets, for a total of 46. Down Syndrome happens when there is a full or partial copy of chromosome 21, bringing the total to 47. Because dogs have a total of 78 chromosomes, there is no equivalent to the human 21st chromosome in a dog’s genetic makeup.

Other Canine Genetic Abnormalities that Mimic Down Syndrome

While dogs can’t have Down Syndrome, they can possess chromosomal abnormalities that lead to conditions similar to that disorder. These include developmental disabilities, difficulty with coordination, as well as distinct physical features such as a flattened face, shorter limbs, and smaller stature. One example is canine congenital hypothyroidism, which is caused by low or absent levels of thyroid hormone at birth, resulting in slow growth, a large and protruding tongue, short limbs, and cognitive delay.

There are other conditions in dogs that could be confused with Down Syndrome. These include pituitary dwarfism, which comes with increased risk of kidney disease, dental issues, and hearing loss; congenital hydrocephalus, a buildup of fluid in the brain that causes brain dysfunction; deficiency of growth hormone; and portosystemic shunt, which results in stunted growth, poor muscle development, and abnormal behaviors such as disorientation and circling, staring into space, and seizures.

Genetic Similarities Between Humans and Dogs

Sometimes, the effect of a shared gene is identical between humans and dogs, as is the case with EPAS1. Sparked by low-oxygen conditions, this gene stimulates the body’s responses to hypoxia—low oxygen levels in body tissues—at high altitudes and is shared by people living in the 16,000-foot-elevation Tibetan Plateau and the dogs that live there. Similarly, the EPS8L2 gene is involved in childhood deafness, as well as hearing loss in Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs.

Other times, the shared gene’s influence is similar, but not exactly the same. One example is a defect in the SCN3A gene, which affects human speech development. In dogs, however, genetic changes near the canine equivalent of the SCN3A gene are associated with frequent howling. Howling may not be the same as speech, but perhaps they’re two sides of a similar coin!

Some Common Canine Genetic Disorders

More than 900 inherited disorders have been identified in dogs. Here are some of the most prevalent:

Allergies

Both skin and internal allergies are very common in dogs, as they are in humans. One especially prevalent inherited allergy is atopic dermatitis (a chronic skin condition that causes intense itching), commonly caused by allergies to substances in the environment such as pollens. Some dogs are also genetically predisposed to developing food allergies; approximately 10 percent of dogs develop itchy or chronic skin problems due to food allergies. The most common dog food allergens are proteins such as chicken, beef, dairy, lamb, and eggs, along with wheat and soy.

Hip Dysplasia

Hip dysplasia, most commonly seen in large dogs, is a deformity of the hip that causes abnormal looseness of the hip joint, leading to degenerative joint disease or osteoarthritis. Although hip dysplasia is most often genetic, it can also be affected by factors such as diet, environment, exercise, growth rate, muscle mass, and hormones.

Diabetes Mellitus

Diabetes is a disease in which the cells of the pancreas either stop producing insulin or can no longer produce adequate amounts of it. The most common form of canine diabetes is similar to human type 1 diabetes, requiring lifelong insulin therapy. Most often seen in older dogs, the risk of developing the disease varies between different dog breeds; research suggests that genetic factors contribute to an animal’s susceptibility to developing diabetes.

Mitral Valve Disease

Mitral valve disease (MVD), the most common genetic cardiovascular disease in dogs, represents 75 percent of all canine cardiovascular disorders. MVD is a chronic, degenerative heart condition that affects the valve between the left atrium and left ventricle of a dog’s heart. In studies, up to 30 percent of dogs with MVD will progress to heart failure and death as a consequence of the disease.

Hereditary Cancers

While not all cancers are hereditary, some dogs carry specific genes that predispose them to developing certain types of cancer.  The most frequently diagnosed inherited canine cancers are lymphoma, hemangiosarcoma, mast cell tumor, and osteosarcoma. It is generally believed that dogs develop cancer about twice as frequently as humans.

In the end, if you’ve been worried that your dog may have Down Syndrome, you can rest assured that he doesn’t. However, if your pup displays any signs similar to human Down Syndrome, contact your veterinarian for a thorough evaluation.

Old Dog, New Dog

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
Two dogs relax casually in a field of grass.
In spring of 2022, I foster-failed and kept puppy Boone, even as I was managing 15-year-old Otto’s failing health. I would absolutely do it all over again, but if I had been able to read the book then, I could have prevented a few regrets. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I had the opportunity to read a pre-publication proof of Whole Dog Journal contributor Kathy Callahan’s newest book, co-authored with Helen St. Pierre, and I can’t recommend the book strongly enough. Old Dog, New Dog helps dog owners anticipate the potential pitfalls of bringing a new young dog into a home already inhabited by a senior dog—and adroitly steer around them in order to seamlessly create a joyful, trauma-free blended canine family.

The book is a perfect collaboration between Callahan—who has made puppy-raising the center of her dog-training career and focus of her two previous books (Welcoming Your Puppy from Planet Dog and 101 Rescue Puppies)—and St. Pierre, the founder of the senior animal rescue and sanctuary Old Dogs Go To Helen and who has provided hospice care to hundreds of senior dogs. Each author is acutely aware of the unique needs of dogs who are in the life stage of their specialty, so the text is able to advocate equally strongly for the new pup, the senior dog, and the humans who will need to juggle and balance the dogs’ needs!

The cover of the book, "Old Dog, New Dog," from author Kathy Callahan.
The book is available for pre-order from Amazon now; it will be shipped in June.

This isn’t a long, technical read; there are just six short chapters, and they can be read overnight. The first talks about managing the health and wellbeing of senior dogs; the second discusses how to manage puppies from day one in order to support good behavior in their new home. The third chapter explains how to introduce the senior and puppy and manage their time together so they enjoy and do not frustrate or hurt each other.

The fourth chapter discusses how to add a new adult dog to a family with a senior dog. Given that these interactions are often more fraught with consequences than senior/puppy meetings, the advice in this chapter is particularly valuable.

Chapter five offers guidance through one of the most painful experiences that we dog owners go through: coping with and managing the last days of our senior dogs. It’s full of clear-eyed, practical tips and heartfelt, poignant counsel on how to fully care for everyone involved with the senior dog so the memories of those last days are not tinged with regret or guilt.

And chapter six helps the family move on with their new dog, even in the throes of grief over the passing of the old dog. It’s a small chapter, but brings up important issues that, if not addressed, can often affect and cloud a family’s relationship with the new dog.

When Otto was in his 15th year of life in 2022, I added puppy Boone to our family. It wasn’t a disaster, but there are a few things I wish I had done differently. If I had been able to read Old Dog, New Dog back then, I could have prevented a few regrets.

I’ll be buying copies of this book to give or loan to everyone I know who has a senior dog and will be adding a new dog to their family. It’s available now on pre-sale through Amazon.com; click here to purchase.

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