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Whole Dog Journal’s 1999 Dry Dog Food Review

By
Nancy Kerns
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There are countless pet food manufacturers calling their foods “premium” these days, but were you aware that the word doesn’t actually mean anything? That is, there are no official requirements that a manufacturer has to meet in order to call its food “premium.”

And, unfortunately, there are also countless dog owners being taken in by this appellation – people who want “the best” for their dogs, and trust that a high price tag and the word “premium” on the label means they are buying the best food their Buddys could ever want.

In WDJ’s estimation, in order to earn the title “premium,” to make it onto our top 10 list, a food must be something really special. It’s not enough to be simply un-awful; only foods that are formulated with the most wholesome, pure, and beneficial ingredients are “premium” in our book.

We’ve spent months examining the labels of all the best dry dog foods we could find, looking for truly healthy, top quality foods. Our 10 favorites are identified and described on the next three pages.

Our purpose in making these selections is twofold. First, we would like to give you a list of foods that you could buy today to improve the health of your dog.

But we’re not going to pretend that we’ve seen every dog food on the market. New foods pop up all the time. Some manufacturers market their products in restricted areas only. So, along with our selections, we present the reasons why we picked each food, so you can compare any foods you might know of (but that do not appear here) and see for yourself what makes one better than the other. We want to give you a fish, in other words, but we want to teach you to fish for yourself, too!

The following is the criteria we used to make our selections. We chose foods that are made with:

• Only the best sources of protein (whole, fresh meats or single-source meat i.e. chicken meal rather than poultry meal, which may contain several types of fowl. Also, the use of any generic protein i.e. “animal fat,” disqualifies a food from our list).

• No meat by-products (by-products in and of themselves are not necessarily evil. But these “second-class” products are not handled as carefully as whole meat. And the sources tend to be far more dubious than whole meat).

• A whole-meat source as one of the first two ingredients (chicken or chicken meal, for instance, as opposed to chicken fat).

• No artificial preservatives (including BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin).

• No artificial colors.

• No sugars and sweeteners like corn syrup, sucrose, and ammoniated glycyrrhizin (added to attract dogs to otherwise unappealing food).

• No propylene glycol (added to some foods to keep them moist).

Embattled ingredients
Longtime readers may notice one difference between our criteria for our 1999 selections and our 1998 selections. Last year, we disregarded any food made with corn, one of the least expensive grains available to dog food makers. This year, we’ve relaxed on the corn issue, as long as the corn is presented in its whole, healthy form. Corn fragments (corn gluten meal, corn syrup, corn oil) do not qualify, especially if they appear high up in the ingredients list. (Remember, the ingredients are listed by weight. The more of something there is in the food, the higher it will appear on the list.)

Why the switch? Well, we could say we were finally convinced to take another side in the great corn controversy. Controversial corn? Oh yes; many foods are quite controversial in this highly competitive market, with manufacturers doing their very best to fan the flames in the direction of their rivals’ ingredients. Take a look at how several different dog food makers have described corn:

Beowulf’s All Natural: “Called the ‘King of Carbohydrates,’ corn readily metabolizes into usable energy and is a rich source of linoleic acid, and has a high level of digestibility.”

Flint River Ranch: “Ordinary dog foods are made with corn. Rice and wheat are easier to digest than corn, and therefore easier on your dog’s system.”

Canidae: “No corn. No wheat. No soy.”

We most respect the opinion of Natura Pet Products, who tells what appears to be – pardon us– the whole story:

“Ground corn is a good source of carbohydrates. And because it contains the entire kernel, it contributes additional protein, corn oil, corn bran, and vitamins and minerals to the diet. This is in contrast to corn fractions, which are leeched of many of these natural nutrients. The downside of corn is that it is a common allergen.”

Manufacturers also argue about beet pulp (“cheap filler” vs. “good source of fiber”) wheat (“the most common allergen” vs. “one of the most nutritionally balanced cereal grains”), oven-baking vs. extrusion (“oven-baking results in better nutrition” vs. “dry, wet, and steam-injected extrusion of ingredients maximizes nutritional value”), and even which type of natural preservative to use (“tocopherol works just fine as a preservative for up to 12 months” and “wholesome vitamins C and E offers all the properties of a chemical preservative without the associated health risks” vs. “vitamin E lasts only about a month as a preservative; vitamin C lasts only about 12 hours after the consumer opens the bag.”

When caught in the crossfire, we’ve tried not to simply mouth the platitudes we’ve heard from one or two manufacturers; instead, we’ve used our own judgement to determine the validity of one opinion or another. We ask you to do the same. Check out our selections. Scrutinize the lists of ingredients (see below). And by all means, analyze our arguments for our favorite foods.

-By Nancy Kerns

The Case for Dog Kindergarten

By
CJ Puotinen
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Dog kindergarten may risk infection, but it also offers advantages for socialization.
Dog kindergarten may increase the risk of spreading germs and pathogens. It also offers advantages for early socialization. Credit: Anita Knot | Getty Images

When they were three months old, the owner of two Great Pyrenese puppies called New York trainer Nancy Strouss. We discussed the importance of early socialization and training, says Strouss, especially for breeds that can be aloof and difficult if they don’t receive a lot of socialization at a young age. The owner agreed that her puppies would benefit from puppy kindergarten classes.

A few days after registering, the owner spoke to her veterinarian, who was adamantly opposed to the idea, says Strouss. He told her that letting the puppies have contact with other dogs before they are fully vaccinated at 16 weeks is extremely dangerous. The owner got very upset, accused us of encouraging her to risk her puppies health, and withdrew from the class.

Asked to advise puppy owners on the subject of puppy training and socialization classes, many veterinarians warn owners away, describing a frightening scenario in which viruses, bacteria, fungi, and parasites lurk in the air and on the ground wherever puppies breathe or walk. They say that other dogs and puppies, potential carriers of infection, are best avoided until young puppies are fully protected by vaccinations or their own maturing immune systems. Most veterinarians believe it is safe to let four-month-old puppies explore the outside world, but some recommend waiting until pups are six or seven months old.

The problem is, that conservative approach may (or may not, as we’ll discuss) safeguard puppies from exposure to agents of infection, but it leaves them completely susceptible to the far less easily treated effects of social isolation. Puppies learn important behavioral skills from each other, their mothers, extended families, and any other canine visitors. These lessons, say behaviorists, can’t be learned from humans, however motivated or well-intentioned. They can only be learned from other dogs. Early training and play in group classes enhances dog-to-dog communication at the same time that it helps young puppies adapt to new people, new sights and smells, other animals, and the experience of travel.

So what’s a responsible canine caretaker to do? Do you really have to choose between sending your puppy to school to contract a horrible disease or keeping him quarantined so that he ends up being euthanized due to a dangerous personality disorder? Not really. Although there are some risks associated with each approach, educating yourself about the risks will help you take a moderate path, keeping a lookout for signs of trouble, and helping you guide the development of your pup into a physically and socially healthy pooch.

Understanding immunity

It’s no wonder that so many people are misinformed about the risks of disease; few have an accurate understanding of the dog’s immune system or the reason for a series of puppy shots.

When challenged by an agent of disease (an antigen), a healthy dog’s immune system responds by producing disease fighters called antibodies, which are specific to whatever antigen encountered by the animal. Infant puppies receive temporary protection from disease via the placenta (in utero) and from antibodies in their mothers colostrum or first milk. Later, the mother’s milk also contributes antibodies.

Each mother provides different antibodies depending on her history of vaccination and other exposures to disease antigens. If the mother has a well-functioning immune system, and a thorough history of vaccination and/or exposure to disease, she will likely contribute a powerful dose of protective antibodies. If, on the other hand, her own store of antibodies is impoverished, due to a dysfunctional immune system and/or a lack of vaccinations and/or exposure to disease antigens, her antibody contributions to her puppies may well be insufficient.

The protection that each puppy receives from his mother (sometimes called passive immunity) usually lasts for several weeks and gradually fades; also gradually, his own immune system matures and begins manufacturing its own antibodies when confronted by disease antigens. Usually, this immune system maturation occurs around 14 to 16 weeks. But the exact rate at which the maternal immunity fades is highly variable from individual to individual. This is important to understand, because as long as the mother’s powerful antibodies are at work in the puppy’s system, his own immune system will not produce its own antibodies in response to exposure to disease antigens.

This means that, as long as the maternal immunity is strong, neither exposure to disease antigens nor exposure to vaccines (which are weakened preparations of antigenic material) will cause him to develop the long-lasting antibodies necessary to defend him from disease.

In most puppies, the maternal immunity fades at some point between 6 and 16 weeks. Vaccines that are administered while the maternal immunity is still strong will be effectively erased from the puppies systems by the maternal antibodies. That’s why it’s generally recommended that puppies be given a series of vaccinations separated by a couple of weeks to make sure that he’s not left unprotected for too long between the fade of the maternal immunity and the development of his own vaccine-triggered antibody protection.

The uncertain timing of the maternal immunity fade is also why veterinarians often recommend that puppies stay relatively quarantined until they are 16 weeks or even older.

Say a puppy receives a typical course of vaccinations at 8, 12, and 16 weeks. Conceivably, his maternal immunity could still be strong enough at 8 weeks (or even 8 and 12 weeks) to nullify those vaccinations, yet fade before his next vaccinations at 12 or 16 weeks. That could leave him vulnerable to disease without protective antibodies for a period of a couple of weeks.

Of course, that’s not necessarily the end of the world. Exposure to a disease antigen can make an unprotected puppy sick, but it will also stimulate his immune system to produce antibodies to fight that and future exposures to the disease antigen. However, the older he is, the more mature his own immune system will be, and the better it will accomplish that task. That’s why the potential gap in the puppy’s protection is more dangerous when he’s 8 weeks old than when he’s 12 weeks old.

Understanding socialization

We don’t know a single trainer who feels that early socialization is not important. Indeed, this is one point that the training community agrees about. ”

There is well-documented proof that unsocialized dogs are shy, nervous, timid, tend to be noisy, can be aggressive, can be difficult to train, do not adapt well to new situations, and in the extreme may live in a constant state of apprehension and fear,” says New Hampshire trainer Gail Fisher. It isn’t so much that behavior problems can never be corrected, she continues, since training can overcome most behavioral issues. Rather, the bottom line is that difficulties caused by a lack of socialization are totally unnecessary and can be avoided simply by socializing puppies.

Massachusetts trainer Gerilyn Bielakiewicz agrees: “Go visit any shelter and read the cage cards. Many dogs are homeless because they don’t like children or cats, can’t live with other dogs, are afraid of loud noises, are afraid of men, are afraid of everything, or are unpredictable or dangerous.”

Sue Ann Lesser, DVM, conducts monthly chiropractic clinics in New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. About 95 percent of her patients compete in agility, obedience, field trials, and other canine sports.

“My favorite patients were well exposed to other dogs and people during the critical 12-16-week period,” says Dr. Lesser. “They make veterinary visits with confidence and trust and as adults they cope well with the stresses of training and competition. One of my dear friends, Wendy Volhard, has a class at her obedience camps called Foundation Games for puppies with experienced handlers in which the puppies practice the basics of utility exercises go outs, directed jumping, stand for exam, and so on. Years later, they sail through utility obedience training because they were exposed to the exercises at an impressionable age.”

“An early start is so important,” adds Ohio trainer Dani Edgerton. “If a puppy is going to attend only one class in its lifetime, I suggest that it be puppy kindergarten rather than a later class.”

Elizabeth Teal, a behavioral trainer in New York City, adds that creative owners can help any puppy interact with the outside world without an organized puppy kindergarten class, but she warns that you do need its equivalent. “If appropriate positive socialization does not occur during the window of opportunity that opens at three weeks and closes at 12 to 16 weeks, its benefits will never be internalized by the dog…By not socializing puppies during the appropriate time, we create stress factors that can affect the animals health later in life. With certain breeds and certain environmental factors, the result is truly dangerous dogs.”

Making the decision for your puppy: The risk continuum

We all know that people make decisions based on their own experiences, values, and resources. The decision to potentially expose or protect your puppy is notable only for its complexity. You see, the usual far left vs. the far right scale has to be modified to encompass four extremes rather than just two.

Way out on the conservative end of the fear of disease scale are the people who feel that any increased risk of infection is not worth the benefits of the socialization; these are the keep pups home until they are six months old” people. At the other extreme of this scale are the people who are comfortable with the possibility that their puppies could become ill, and who allow their puppies to socialize anywhere, anytime. Some of these people use conventional vaccination protocols; some, you may be surprised to learn, use no vaccines at all.

Then there is the fear of social disorders scale, which also has its extremists. On one end are those who feel that all puppies must be socialized, no matter what. These people feel that the risk of dealing with illness, or even the death of a puppy, is preferable to raising a social misfit. On the other extreme of this scale are the people who either don’t know or don’t care about socialization.

It can be difficult to find a balanced place on this four-ended teeter-totter, especially when you weigh one scale of risks and benefits against the risks and benefits of the other scale. But, people do!

New Hampshire trainer Gail Fisher says, “The risk of contracting a communicable disease is minute compared to the nearly 100 percent guarantee that an unsocialized dog will never reach its genetic potential. Since non-genetically based, distrustful, suspicious, nervous, fearful behavior is totally preventable, why would anyone recommend otherwise? Generally speaking, puppies can recover from contagious illness. Shyness lasts for life.”

Massachusetts trainer Gerilyn Bielakiewicz agrees. The best argument I’ve heard for early training and socialization, she says, comes from Dr. Ian Dunbar (a veterinarian and behaviorist) of Sirius Puppy Training in California. He says that it does no good for vets to tell people not to socialize their puppies before they are fully vaccinated if those same puppies end up dead because they can’t get along with other dogs or people. Lack of socialization kills more dogs than any disease.”

Even people who don’t necessarily take their puppies to formal classes think it’s important to provide a wide array of social opportunities for the pups. Take Connecticut West Highland White Terrier breeder Christine Swingle, for example. She doesn’t take her puppies to kindergarten, she says. “Instead, I socialize puppies by handling them daily from birth. When they’re five weeks old, I start inviting friends and family to play with and handle the pups. As they get older, the pups interact with my adult Westies, and I ask friends to bring their dogs for dog-to-dog socialization. In this way, the puppies get a good variety of exposure to children, adults, and other dogs. If they have the right attitude and character, and if given the right opportunities, puppies will socialize well without puppy kindergarten.”

 More proof of bad behavior than of disease transmission

No one knows what percentage of the millions of vaccinated and unvaccinated puppies that have contact with other dogs between the ages of 10 and 16 weeks contract infectious diseases, or how many die as a result, says New York veterinarian Beverly Cappel; No one has done any studies, she says. She’s not terribly worried about the health risks of puppy kindergarten, however.

“I’ve had a busy practice for 14 years, and I’ve seen only two or three cases of distemper in all that time. Parvo is more common, and it can wipe out whole litters, but even parvo doesn’t occur often. Some illnesses are so rare, they’re practically extinct. For example, I’ve never seen a case of canine infectious hepatitis, and I don’t know anyone who has.”

Dr. Cappel recommends only the distemper and parvo vaccines for puppies, and she usually gives them at 8, 11, and 15 weeks. “Between 12 and 16 weeks, short-term memory starts crossing over to long-term memory, and puppies begin to retain what they learn, so that’s a perfect time to begin puppy kindergarten,” ”she says.

New York trainer Elizabeth Teal argues that there is far too much behavioral science available, such as the extensive research compiled by John Scott and John Fuller (published in their book, Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog), for the puppy socializing question to even be a debate. “I will always risk illness over a lifetime of psychological maiming,” she says. “And I say this after seeing serious illness up close. I nursed a parvo puppy into a happy, well-socialized dog.”

Teal is concerned about the scary illnesses out there, but adds, “the lack of socialization frightens me more…Most dogs in this country are euthanized for behavior problems, and three at the top of the list are inappropriate urination, jumping, and household destruction. We’re killing dogs because we don’t teach them during the most accessible period of their lives where to go to the bathroom, how to greet people politely, and how to coexist with furniture. I don’t know how euthanasia statistics compare with statistics for early death from disease, but I know that for me, the risk of infection is worth taking.”

Also With This Article Click here to view “Getting the Most of Out of Puppy Kindergarten” Click here to view “Understanding Canine Vaccinations” Click here to view “Plan Ahead to Socialize Your Puppy Early”

Tethering Your Dog for Training

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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For many years, I have been a vigorous and vocal opponent of keeping dogs tied or chained as a primary means of confinement. The hazards of tying a dog are well-documented, and include increased aggression, vulerability to human and non-human intruders, and the risk of hanging or choking.

It may come as a surprise, therefore, to know that I regard the tether as an invaluable piece of training equipment. The difference – and it’s a big one – is in the application.

Used as a training tool, the tether is a short (about four feet in length) nylon-coated cable with sturdy snaps at both ends. Its purpose is to temporarily restrain a dog for relatively short periods of time in your presence, to allow you to accomplish any one of a number of training and behavior modification goals. It is not used as punishment, or to restrain a dog for long periods in your absence.

appropriate dog tethering

Among other things, the tether can be used as a time-out to settle unruly behavior; to teach your dog to sit politely to greet people; as an aid in a puppy supervision and housetraining program; and to help your dog learn long-distance downs. There are several different ways to set up your tether, depending on your circumstances (see “It’s Easy To Make A Tether” below). Let’s take a look at how you might use the tether in each of the situations listed above.

How to Start Using the Tether with Your Dog

You want your dog’s time on the tether to be a pleasant experience. Before you actually use it the first time for training purposes, take the time to teach him that it is a good place to be, so he doesn’t panic when you try to use it.

Start by attaching his collar to the tether and staying with him. Click! or say “Yes!” and feed him treats, several times. If he knows the “sit” cue, ask him to sit and Click! and treat him some more. Then take a step back, Click! and return to give him a treat.

Gradually vary the distance and length of time between each set of clicks and treats, until he is calm and comfortable on the tether even if you are across the room. If he seems worried about being on the tether, keep your session brief and try to do several short sessions a day until he accepts the restraint.

Release him from the tether when he is most calm, not when he is fretting. If the tether doesn’t worry him, one or two practice sessions should be all you need to start using it in training.

Using A Tether for Dog Time-Outs

Rowdy, your adolescent Lab, is out of control. He’s not supposed to get on the furniture, but every time you sit on the sofa he tries to jump in your lap. If you push him off your lap he just comes back for more; in fact, he thinks it’s a great game. Rowdy needs to learn about “Time Out!”

A time-out is not intended to be a harsh punishment. It is simply an opportunity for Rowdy to calm down, and to learn that his rambunctious behavior results in his house-freedom privileges getting revoked for a while. Believe it or not, with the use of a tether, he can learn to control his own behavior in order to maintain his freedom.

Install a tether in the room of the house where you spend the most time – or have several, one in each of your high-use areas. Put a rug or soft dog bed at each tether, so Rowdy will be comfortable. Have a few of his favorite toys handy so you can give him one when you put him on a time out.

Now just sit down on the sofa, and wait. When Rowdy jumps into your lap, say “Oops, time out!” in a cheerful tone of voice. Then take hold of his collar and gently lead him to the tether. Be pleasant – no scolding or yelling. Hook the tether to his collar, put his toys on the rug, and walk away. If he fusses, ignore him.

When he settles and is lying calmly on his rug, you can Click! your clicker or say Yes! and either toss him a treat or walk over and give him one. After a few Clicks! and treats for calm behavior, release him from the tether and sit on the sofa again. If he jumps up, do another “Oops, time out!” and pleasantly put him back on his tether.

The number of repetitions required to get the message across to Rowdy will vary, depending on you and your dog. If he has a long history of reinforcement for jumping on your lap – that is, if he has been playing the lap game with you for years – it will take longer to change his behavior than if he’s only been doing it for a few days, weeks, or months.

training dogs with tethers

Also, if you (or other members of your family) are not consistent about putting him on a time-out for every lap-jump, the behavior will persist much longer than if everyone reacts in the same way.

Dogs learn through repetition, so if he continues to jump on you after you release him from the tether, just “Oops, time out!” him again, put him back on the tether, and consider it a golden opportunity to do lots of training repetitions.

The timing of your Click! is important because it marks the good behavior; you want your dog to know he’s getting rewarded for whatever he was doing when he heard the Click! The timing of your “Oops!” is also important. The “Oops!” should happen while Rowdy is doing the inappropriate behavior, not when you are attaching him to the tether, so that he can eventually understand which behavior has earned him the time out.

Putting a dog in the back yard when he misbehaves is not as effective as using a tether, because most owners forget to let the dog back inside when he’s behaving himself. If you expect him to learn how to be well-behaved, it is important to give him the chance to be rewarded for the behavior you want (being calm), and not just manage the behavior you don’t want by exiling him from the pack.

Teaching Dogs to Greet Politely

Jumping up on people is a natural behavior for dogs. It’s also a very annoying one. Dogs just want to greet you and have you greet them back. They quickly learn that people invariably pay attention to them when they jump up, so they keep doing it – remember, dogs do what works.

You can use the tether to teach Rowdy that people pay attention to him only when he sits. If he learns that jumping up doesn’t work, he’ll stop doing it.

Start by practicing with family members. Put Rowdy on the tether and take several steps back. Now walk toward him. If he jumps up, stop out of his reach and wait for him to sit. If you have been clicker-training him, this should happen fairly quickly.

When he sits, move forward again. If he jumps up, stop, and wait for him to sit. Continue until you are standing in front of him and he is sitting in front of you. Click! and feed him a treat. Now do it again, until you can walk right up to him without having him jump up. (If he jumps up when you offer the treat, whisk it away behind your back, wait for him to sit, and offer it again. Several disappearing treats should convince him to sit patiently until you get it to his mouth.)

As soon as Rowdy will sit for your approach, add other people to the game – family members, friends, and anyone else you can convince to participate. Set up a tether near your front door for a handy place to attach your dog when you greet visitors. This will help you teach him to greet people calmly at the door at the same time.

You can make use of your leash for the same purpose as the tether when you are walking your dog in public. When anyone wants to pet him, tell them Rowdy is in training and you need their help. Explain that they can pet Rowdy and feed him a treat as soon as he sits. This way, Rowdy will learn that the “Sit” game works for all humans, not just the ones in his pack or at home in his den.

Puppy Supervision

The biggest mistake most new puppy owners make is giving baby Rowdy too much freedom, too soon. They spend much of their day two steps behind their darling little dynamo, cleaning up the destruction and doggie-doo. Rowdy gets to practice all kinds of rewarding inappropriate behaviors, such as house soiling, raiding garbage cans, counter-surfing, chewing human possessions, and playing a wonderful game of keep-away when humans try to get their possessions back.

This is the time in Rowdy’s life when it is most important to practice behavior management. Along with a crate and a puppy-pen, a wisely-used tether can take much of the pain out of puppyhood. The portable “under-the-door” tether is perfect for this application, as you can take it with you into any room, not just those that are set up for wall tethers. Since puppy teeth tend to find furniture particularly inviting, attaching the tether to the piano or coffee table leg isn’t a great idea either. You can slip the portable tether under a door, close it, and keep Rowdy close at hand instead of worrying about whether he’s peeing on – or chewing up – the Oriental rug.

Dog Training from a Distance

Tethers are not just for basic good manners training. Once Rowdy has learned house manners, you can also use your tether to teach him to respond to your cues from a distance.

In basic training you probably taught Rowdy to sit and lie down right next to your side, or directly in front, facing you. Rowdy now thinks that “Down” means “lie down next to my human.” If he’s on the other side of the room and you ask him to lie down, he comes to you and then drops to the ground. Darn. You wanted him to lie down on his rug on the other side of the room. How hard is that for Rowdy to figure out?! Remember that your dog is only doing what he thinks he’s supposed to do. Don’t get mad, get training. Using a tether, it’s simple to show Rowdy that “Down” means “down wherever you are.”

First, you need a good response from your dog to a verbal “down” cue. If you don’t have it yet, go back to his basic training. You want him to lie down for you on just the word cue, without having to point toward the ground or lure him down. When he will do that, attach him to the tether, face him, and ask him to down. Click! and reward when he lies down. Then invite him back to a sit and take a step back. Ask him to down again. If he steps toward you, let the tether restrain him, and just wait. If he doesn’t down after several seconds, lure him down. Click! and reward.

Stay in that same spot until he will down on the verbal cue from one step away. Now take another step back and try it again. Lure if necessary, Click! and reward when he does it. Continue to repeat the exercise at each new distance until he responds to your verbal cue. Then take another step away, until he will do a distance down on the tether from across the room or the yard. Then try it off the tether, again starting with a short distance, gradually moving farther and farther away as he understands what you are asking him to do.

Some dogs can do this in one training session, others take several. Remember to keep your sessions short, and to stop training while you and your dog are both enjoying the game. If one or both of you are getting frustrated or bored, stop, do something easy and fun, and take a break.

It’s Easy to Make A Tether

A tether is a simple, four-foot length of nylon-coated cable with sturdy snaps on both ends. Most of the cables available commercially are intended for tying a dog outside, and are a minimum of 10 feet. That is too long for most training purposes.

[Editor’s Note: Against Miller’s advice, we bought a 10-foot model, thinking we could cut it in half and make two tethers. Our test dog broke the commercial product’s hardware in about two minutes. Then we read the package’s warning that the product wasn’t made “to be used as a restraining device.” Oh!]

Fortunately, it’s easy to make your own training tether, or ask your local hardware store if they will attach the snaps to the ends of a four-foot cable for you with the necessary ferrules (the metal hardware used to hold the cable) and a crimping tool.

Take a four-foot length of 1/8-inch nylon-coated cable. Thread one end through one channel of the appropriate-size ferrule, then through the ring of a small but sturdy metal clip. Fold the cable back on itself, run it through the other channel of the ferrule, and crimp the ferrule on both pieces of cable to hold the end in place. Repeat with the other end. You now have the basic tether.

[Editor’s Note: We found the price of a crimping tool to be restrictive; we used a hammer to crimp the ferrules.]

Next, screw an eye-bolt into a stud or beam, or other solid piece of wood in your home (or put eye-bolts in several locations) that are sturdy enough to withstand your dog’s weight if he pulls on the tether with his full weight. Snap one end of the tether to the eye-bolt and the other to your dog’s collar. Be sure to provide a comfortable place for the dog, and a toy or Kong stuffed with food to keep him happy.

If you are renting, and cannot possibly screw eye-bolts into the walls, wrap one end of the tether around the leg of a heavy piece of furniture and hook it onto itself. Attach the other end to your dog’s collar. Be sure the furniture is heavy enough to prevent the dog from dragging it, and make a comfortable place for the dog to sit or lie down. This is an easy and convenient application of the tether for dogs who don’t tend to chew. It is not appropriate for most young puppies or other dogs who are inclined to gnaw furniture legs.

The Portable Tether

Screw an eye-bolt into small piece of wood, about 2″x 4″x 4″. Slip the cable under a door with the wooden block on the far side. Close the door. The tether is now held in place by the block, and you can clip the other end to your dog’s collar. This tether is handy to use when there are no eye-bolts installed, when the dog is too heavy to be held by furniture, or when a puppy might chew on furniture legs. It is easy to carry with you from room to room, or to take with you when you want to be able to work on your dog’s training at friends’ and relatives’ homes.

Work on the Relationship

Properly used, the tether is a great training tool. It can allow Rowdy to be part of the family instead of shut in his crate or exiled to the backyard. It can help ease domestic tensions when some family members are less enthused about your dog’s presence than others. Most important, it can teach Rowdy to control his own behavior, without his humans feeling compelled to constantly punish him for his inappropriate actions. This improves the relationship between dog and owner – and that makes the tether an extremely valuable tool indeed.

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

What’s In A Name?

By
Nancy Kerns
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As previously discussed in this column (“Who’s in Charge?” WDJ December 2000), the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the single biggest organizational influence on the pet food industry in this country. Even though it is a non-regulatory, non-governmental voluntary agency, it is also comprised of the individuals who are most concerned with the production of pet foods – that is, state feed control officials as well as advisory liaisons from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and the pet food industry, so most states adopt some or all of its rulings and regulations as law.

AAFCO meets twice a year to discuss developments in the industry and to hear requests for changes from its various constituents. These meetings are always interesting – at least, to those of us who are intensely interested in how the actions of this body can affect the food that gets eaten by the nation’s dogs and cats! The January 2001 meeting (which I attended) was typical in revealing the various pressures that the product – food for animals – is subject to by all the parties that have a financial stake in it.

For instance, numerous definitions were discussed at this meeting. How can a definition of a feed ingredient or feed description matter? Hey, in this business what you can call something is everything!

By any other name…
For example, in the January meeting, a new feed term, “Mechanically Separated Poultry, Feed Grade,” was sought by a single company, Ducoa, for a single product: defeathered, deboned, spent laying hens. “Spent hens” are worn-out egg layers, discarded by the egg industry before they reach their second birthday. Because they are bred to lay eggs, they aren’t meaty enough to be profitable when processed for human consumption. Up to now, they haven’t even been utilized much in animal feed or pet food, because it hasn’t been worth the cost to ship them to slaughter.

Ducoa proposes salvaging these spent hens for pet food through a newly developed process. First, the hens are fasted (to “clean out” their intestines), then killed by gassing with carbon dioxide. Feathers are scalded off, and the carcasses are centrifuged through a screen to separate the hard parts (bones, beaks, and feet) from the meat, viscera (internal organs), and other soft tissue. The resultant product will be treated with preservatives and antioxidants, chilled, packed, and shipped on refrigerated trucks. Ducoa has completed extensive testing to ensure that the product is free from bacterial contamination. The product is already nearing final approval by the FDA, although this is the first time it’s been presented to AAFCO.

While the finished product may be a good dog food ingredient, its new name poses a few problems for consumers. For one, the USDA already has a definition of “mechanically-separated poultry,” and it excludes viscera. Also, the current AAFCO definition of “poultry” does not include organs and by-products, but this definition of “poultry” does include organs and by-products. In addition, the “feed grade” part of the name is used only for the pet food makers’ information; once the product is included in the pet food, the term “feed grade” won’t be specified on the label of finished pet food. (In fact, no reference to grade or quality is allowed in a pet food ingredient statement at all.) So the label on the dog food will actually say, “mechanically-separated poultry,” which conflicts with the USDA definition.

Nevertheless, this definition passed on a vote of the committee, and will be considered by the full AAFCO membership in August. If it passes, it will be added to the 2002 book as a “tentative” definition, which is the initial status of all new definitions. It can be considered for official status next year.

In other poultry news…
The rendering industry was thwarted on its last two attempts to change the name of “by-products” to something more euphemistic. You see, it’s taken a while, but consumers have figured out what by-products are, and are avoiding foods that contain them. So, under the guise of “standardizing” the various animal product definitions, renderers asked the Ingredients Definitions Committee to approve two new definitions.

One proposed definition is “poultry protein,” which they would like changed to “the non-rendered product consisting of poultry tissues, including bone, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practices.” Note that poultry “tissues” does not mean poultry meat. In essence, what this definition does is put a new name on “poultry by-products” and include bone.

Next, rendering reps asked to either generate a new definition for, or replace the existing definition of “poultry by-product meal” with the term “poultry protein meal.” This would be “the rendered product from poultry tissues, including bone, exclusive of feathers, except in such amounts as might occur unavoidably in good processing practices.” This is justified, say the proponents, because the current definition of “poultry by-product meal” excludes bones, while the definition of “meat and bone meal” clearly includes bones. The definition of “meat meal” does not specify whether it includes bones, but neither does it specifically exclude them.

The renderers evidently feel that all of this is just a terrible mess. It’s true that the only poultry ingredient that may include bones is “poultry meal.” The current definitions of “by-products” and “by-product meal” both exclude them.

AAFCO has twice denied similar petitions as attempts to confuse and deceive the consumer. However, the prior propositions were primarily cosmetic in nature. Initially, it appeared that this petition had a reasonable chance of success because it does make, in part, an actual change in the ingredient itself by including bones. Fortunately for consumers, the feed control officials are not likely to be fooled by the renderers’ newest proposal. The AAFCO Board directed the Iowa Feed Control Official to put together an expert panel to examine this issue in detail; if the definitions are to be changed, it appears, for now, that it will not be at the convenience of the rendering industry.

“Organic” dog food? Not!
The USDA recently approved guidelines for use of the term “organic” as applied to foods for human consumption. After several misguided attempts to include irradiated and sludge-fertilized crops (which drew a record number of citizen protests), a relatively good definition was eventually hammered out. The current USDA definition does not include pet foods; USDA evidently intends to include them at some future date.

In AAFCO’s January meeting, it was proposed that AAFCO accept the following reasonable-sounding definition of organic: “A formula feed or specific ingredient within a formula feed that has been produced and handled in compliance with the requirements of the USDA National Organic Program.” However, this proposal was met with great resistance from representatives of pet food companies, and, after much discussion, a decision on a definition was shelved in order to create a new “working group” that would direct further discussions on the topic in the future.

Why should it be so hard to accept such a simple definition? Because, if the whole product is to be labeled “made with organic ingredients,” the new USDA rules require at least 70 percent of the finished product to consist of organic ingredients. This means that pet food makers using organically raised meat, for instance, but no other organic ingredients, will not be able to say “made with organic meat” on the label. At least one pet food company has interpreted this to mean that they won’t be able to use any organic ingredients at all – because who will pay extra for organic ingredients if they can’t brag about it on the label?

For now, given that there is no accepted rule, pet food makers can still say anything they want regarding their organic ingredients on the label, as legal counsel has opined that pet food does not fall under the current definition, and USDA concurs.

Natural? You make the call!
The Ingredient Definitions Committee passed a new tentative definition for “natural.” That is: “A feed or ingredient derived solely from plant, animal or mined sources, either in its unprocessed state or having been subject to physical processing, heat processing, rendering, purification, extraction, hydrolysis, enzymolysis or fermentation, but not having been produced by or subject to a chemically synthetic process and not containing any additives or processing aids that are chemically synthetic except in amounts as might occur unavoidably in good manufacturing practices.”

What the heck does all that mean? Not a whole lot. This definition does little to restrict products that most of us would not consider truly natural. For instance, a substance could be extracted from a plant using acetone or other chemical, but as long as most of the chemical is evaporated or rinsed off, the substance could still be called “natural.” The limitation of “good manufacturing practices” does not reassure me. The regulations adopted by AAFCO require only “reasonable” procedures to prevent “unsafe” contamination (not quite the same as “zero” contamination).

Plus, exceptions and disclaimers will be allowed for things like “natural cheese flavor” on a product, even if none of its other ingredients meet the definition. Synthetic vitamin and mineral mixes can be used in an otherwise “natural” food if the label states “Natural with added vitamins, minerals and other trace nutrients” – and the qualifying statement must use print only half the size of that used for the word “Natural.”

Under this definition, animal digests, solvent-extracted meals, and other foods that undergo man-made chemical processing, may still be labeled “natural.” For instance, a product like “Soybean meal, dehulled, extruded-expelled” could now be considered “natural.” What is it really? “The meal product resulting from grinding the cake after removal of most of the oil by mechanical extraction method preceded by dry extrusion at 300-320°F of dehulled soybeans.”

The approved definition is, at this point, in “tentative” status; it will most likely be approved as is by the full AAFCO membership at its August meeting.

The bottom line? In our opinion, label claims really don’t give consumers much useful, dependable information, and should not necessarily influence you to either buy or not buy a given food. While state feed control officials, by and large, are in the consumers’ corner (as opposed to being in the industry’s pocket), their ability to protect us and our dogs is under constant assault by the profit-motivated industry. Buyers must always beware.

-By Dr. Jean Hofve, DVM

Dr. Jean Hofve is the Companion Animal Program Coordinator for the Animal Protection Institute, located in Sacramento, California.

Training Classes for Aggressive Dogs

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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[Updated November 16, 2017]

Dogs fight other dogs for many reasons. They fight in aggressive play. They squabble over food and toys. They challenge each other for the best spot in the pack or the best spot on the bed. They fight to protect their puppies and other canine pack members, or to defend territory and their humans. Some fight because they’ve been bred or taught to fight. And a surprising number of dogs fight just because they are poorly socialized; they’ve never learned to speak “dog,” and as canine social “nerds” they inadvertently display body language that triggers aggressive responses from other dogs. Serious dog-on-dog aggression is a common problem, and one that is often overlooked and too often tolerated. However, it is not normal dog behavior, and it can, in many cases, be prevented or mitigated.

All dogs are capable of turning on one of their canine acquaintances with a short but ferocious attack. If this happens only occasionally, these brief (though dramatic) interchanges are actually normal – a device that dogs use to set boundaries regarding what kind of behavior they won’t tolerate, or to establish dominance over each other. But dogs that frequently attack other dogs without regard to the victim’s behavior can cause us a lot of trouble, heartache, and even lawsuits.

A tiny percentage of these canine bullies are born, not made; certain breeds were developed to fight each other. But far more dog-aggressive dogs were made that way by their owners – through a lack of proper socialization, inappropriate human intervention in normal canine interactions, and even encouragement of aggressive behavior. In other cases, a dog slowly develops increasingly aggressive behavior that goes unchecked or unnoticed by his owner – at least until it gets bad enough that the dog seriously injures someone else’s dog.

It’s very frustrating for social, responsible dog owners when they end up with a dog who can’t get along with other dogs. Understandably, few people want to walk with them. The walks they do take are fraught with tension, as they try to control their dog and warn other owners to keep their distance. Eventually, many people tire of the stress, and dominant canine bullies end up exiled in back yards, or even put to death.

Help Your Dog Regain Social Access

Fortunately, with appropriate training, many of these social misfits can regain access to society. Some trainers, including myself, occasionally offer special classes for such dogs. These “Growl” or “Difficult Dog” classes are designed to teach owners new skills for dealing with their dogs’ antisocial behaviors, and to give the dogs the opportunity to learn appropriate social skills.

One goal of the class is teaching owners how to detect and interpret their dogs’ aggressive body language in time to avert confrontations with other dogs. They learn exercises that can distract their dogs from their habitual and aggressive focus. The owners also learn to use food lures, rewards and praise to reinforce desired behaviors.

The other major goal is to give the dogs opportunities for learning appropriate dog social behavior from each other. In the wild, dominant body language is most frequently used to avoid fights, since it is contrary to pack survival for dogs to go around routinely injuring each other. Most dominance moves – snarls, raised hackles, chin over shoulders – are bluffs, designed to intimidate the opponent into bloodless submission. Occasionally, a brief scuffle may ensue, rarely causing serious injury. Thus dominance in wild packs is usually settled and maintained with relative non-violence. Owners of domestic dogs tend to be phobic of any display of aggression between dogs. Because of the perceived risk of serious injury to the participants, owners don’t let dogs “fight it out” in an uncontrolled setting, so most dogs never experience the natural consequences of their aggressive behavior. Therefore, minor, normal and usually harmless scuffles are often treated as major crises. The dogs are yanked apart and punished mightily. As a result, not only do the dogs not learn how to settle their squabbles peacefully, their levels of stress and aggression actually escalate and they become more aggressive around other dogs. It becomes, literally, a vicious cycle.

In a Growl Class, dogs can be allowed to interact to the point of learning those consequences – with an important difference: they wear soft but strong muzzles. In this controlled setting, dogs safely get past their initial burst of aggression so they can get to the part where they learn to relate appropriately.

It’s critical that dogs and owners enrolled in these classes are pre-evaluated by the trainer. Classes are then custom designed to meet the needs of the students. Protections are put in place so that big bullies are prevented from trouncing the timid dog who bites in self-defense. Where appropriate, owners can be shown some of the exercises ahead of time so their dogs get extra practice. A bully might need to spend more time practicing his “Off” exercise, while a very nervous dog might get extra homework assignments in “Relaxation Techniques.”

By the end of the course, some dogs can be fully integrated into their local canine community. Others can be given supervised freedom in a designated “play group.” Still others will never be trustworthy for off-leash play, but will be under much better control and far safer on-leash than previously.

The best results will be enjoyed by highly motivated owners who enjoy close bonds with their dogs. Dogs who are responsive and connected to their owners and who are easily motivated by food, praise or other rewards are most likely to benefit from this type of class. Independent dogs who are oblivious to their owners’ presence and behavior requests are more likely to fail.

A Typical Difficult Dog Class

The mix of people and dog personalities (and mixed results) displayed in one of my recent Growl Classes was fairly typical. I offered the class in Santa Cruz, California, late last summer, and after fielding lots of inquiries from owners of dog-aggressive dogs, I selected four to participate: Beau, an eight-year-old neutered male Rottweiler mix; Kito, a three-year-old neutered male Akita; Jessie, a four-year-old spayed female Australian Cattle Dog mix, and Schmaal, an eight-year-old spayed female Saluki.

These selections were made on the basis of my careful pre-evaluations of each potential member of the class. Jessie was an overachieving, slightly fearful herding dog who was strongly driven to protect her owner from the mere presence of other dogs. Schmaal was a graceful, athletic sighthound, who routinely responded to other dogs with aggression, though the stress of a training class made her act aloof, almost to the point of catatonia. Her stress level was so high in class, in fact, that getting her to eat treats was a major accomplishment.

Kito the Akita was previously abused and had been attacked by dogs before; he seemed to go on the defensive with other dogs due to apprehension about being attacked. In general, it seemed he had a lot of issues to sort out. Beau, however, was my greatest concern. He had been attacking dogs all of his life, enjoyed being a bully (all 120 pounds of him), and was on a restricted diet due to problems with his digestive system. He had also previously been through punishment-based training to try to control his aggression.

Food is an important part of a successful Growl Class. Instructors use positive methods to reduce the dogs’ stress and to teach them that having other dogs around is a “good” thing. This cannot be accomplished with punishment, only with reinforcement and reward. Since food is a primary reinforcer that can be delivered quickly and easily, its use is critical in getting a dog to think positively about a stimulus (in this case, the presence of other dogs) that has previously been perceived as a negative.

In this particular class, the use of food as a reward was problematic for two of the dogs (Beau had digestive problems, and Schmaal was too stressed to eat). I warned the owners in the class that this would present us with additional challenges.

Growl Class Session 1

I do not allow the dogs to interact in the first session of a Growl Class; we practice exercises and assign homework so that the dogs are more responsive to their owners before the first interaction in Class #2. We start out with students and their dogs spread out around the training area – with as much distance between them as is possible. People and dogs are seated on blankets or rugs on the ground.

I start the first class with an in-depth discussion of dog behavior, aggression, and canine body language. Each owner describes his dog’s history of aggression, and the kind of behavior he anticipates from his dog in the class setting. We analyze the body language that each of the dogs displays, discuss its likely meaning, and make predictions about the dogs’ behaviors during their interaction to come. It is important from the very beginning of the first class that owners begin to develop their skills in reading dog body language so they know when and how to intervene appropriately.

Next, I invite discussion from the owners regarding their feelings about their dogs and about the class. It is normal for owners to be apprehensive. I explain that we wouldn’t let the dogs hurt each other, and that one goal of the class is to allow dogs to interact safely so that they can learn appropriate body language and social behavior around each other.

Then, we began to work with the dogs. Unlike my regular classes, where I am upbeat, speak cheerfully, and move quickly, Growl Classes are almost like meditation sessions. The first exercise is intended to lower the stress levels of dogs and owners by doing relaxation exercises – massage on a rug or blanket for the dogs, with deep breathing for the owners.

Next, dogs and owners learn an “Off” exercise (see link below for all exercises), which means that if they give a “hard glare” to another dog they are asked to “Off” and are given a Click! and treat when they look away from the other dog. They can also get clicks and treats for “soft” glances (and tail wags!) at other dogs, and lots of clicks and treats for paying attention to their owners. The purpose of this is to teach them that the presence of other dogs is a good thing – they get lots of treats when other dogs are around.

As I had anticipated, Beau had the most difficulty with this critically important exercise. Not only was he very committed to the hard stare that signals the pre-launch phase of an all-out attack, but the treats his owners used – his regular dinner kibble – were not nearly attractive enough to distract him from his seek-and-destroy missions. We finally began to have some success with Beau in Week #4, when I started rubbing meaty treats on my hands and letting him lick the flavor off as his reward.

Another exercise taught in the first class is the “Gotcha!,” a positive cue (with treat reward) for a grab on a dog’s collar, which becomes necessary when we need to intervene in a scuffle.

Next, we practiced fitting muzzles on the dogs, and did a little calm, one-at-a-time leash walking around the training area, while owners practiced their tone of voice (calm and upbeat, not panicked or commanding) for use with the “Off” cue. We ended with more relaxation and discussed how everyone felt about the class so far. I instructed dog and owner pairs to leave calmly, one at a time, to avoid confrontations at the door.

Growl Class Session 2

I start and end every class from the second week forward with the relaxation exercises learned in the first class. My group of four responded well to these exercises, and we got settled quickly. Then I had the owners put the muzzles on and do some calm on-leash walking/attention exercises. At first, I had three dogs sitting and just one walking, while getting lots of positive reinforcement from her owner for calm behavior as she passed the other dogs. Then we did “pass-bys,” where two dogs pass each other walking on leash, again with lots of treats for good behavior. The challenges of Beau’s and Schmaal’s food restrictions became apparent early in this exercise.

After the relaxation and leash exercises, we conducted the first off-leash interaction. I checked each of the dogs’ muzzles for comfort and secure fit, while we discussed the rules. I explained that I would tell the owners when to release their dogs, and that they should simply stand back out of the way. Confrontations between the dogs would be likely, but the muzzles would prevent injury.

The first off-leash interaction was a high anxiety time, for me and the owners. I felt my adrenaline build, and disciplined myself to keep my voice and body language calm. “If there is a problem,” I cautioned my students, “let me handle it. If I need help I will ask for it. We all took several deep breaths, and then I told them to release their dogs.

First (Muzzled) Dog-Dog Interaction

Surprisingly, little Jessie was the first aggressor. She flew out from behind her owner at Schmaal, who wandered by too closely. This started a free-for-all, with the most intense aggression, as expected, between Beau and Kito. Jessie and Schmaal disengaged fairly quickly, while Beau and Kito trounced each other for several minutes before calling a truce.

We all breathed a sigh of relief. The dogs wandered around the training area, glaring but not attacking. We then called the dogs, rewarded them, put their leashes back on and removed the muzzles, and settled down for more relaxation and debriefing. Yes, it was scary, but it was a relief to see that the muzzles worked, and that the fighters stopped quickly, and of their own accord.

However, I explained that in the next class, we would not allow the fighting to continue to its own conclusion. We would use our “Off” interrupter to try to intervene pre-launch (with a big click and reward if the dogs succeeded), and our “Gotcha” to intervene post-launch if necessary. I instructed the owners to practice “Off” and “Gotcha” for at least 20 minutes per day, so that, hopefully, the dogs would attain a high level of responsiveness by the next class.

Growl Class Session 3

In the third week, Jessie’s owner reported that Jessie was making great progress. She was passing other dogs on the street without giving them the evil eye, and was responding nicely to “Off” and rewards. Schmaal, also, was doing surprisingly well. Although she still disdained treats in class, she would eat them out in the “real world.” However, I had concerns about Beau and Kito. Even during relaxation exercises Beau glowered at Kito from the opposite corner of the room. Despite my pleas to Beau’s owners to find some other kind of high value treat, they still fed him only kibble.

We warmed up with by-passes; Jessie and Schmaal got to do theirs without muzzles. Then, with all four muzzles on, we tried for some controlled interaction. The dogs were released. Beau and Kito launched for each other; Jessie and Schmaal wanted to join in but responded to their owners when called back. Lots of rewards for that!!! Meanwhile the two big bruisers seriously went at it. We looked for an opportunity to intervene with an “Off” and a “Gotcha” and retired to our relaxation rugs.

Next, we gave Jessie and Schmaal an opportunity to interact together without the boys. Muzzles on, there was only a brief threat from Jessie that was over almost before it began.

Growl Classes 4 and 5

Kito didn’t show up for the next class. Since they hadn’t called me, I couldn’t know if it was because his owners were discouraged or if it was due to an unrelated scheduling conflict, but it was disheartening, and it put a crimp in our program. We did our basic exercises with the three remaining dogs, and tried an off-leash interaction with all the dogs muzzled. Beau behaved well with just the girls present. I showed his owners how to rub meat flavoring on their hands and the kibble treats, to get Beau more engaged in the reward process. It seemed to work for the wife, who learned to combine the treat reward with upbeat verbal praise. Beau still ignored the husband’s boring treats and monotone voice, however.

This session went so well that after the three-dog interaction we put Beau back on his relaxation rug, and removed Jessie and Schmaal’s muzzles. With calm, relaxed off-leash walking, owners nearby, both dogs did beautifully. Jessie was aware of the other dog but she stayed under control; Schmaal just pretended Jessie wasn’t there. We all agreed that Beau was not ready for off-leash interaction without his muzzle.

Kito returned for the fifth class, which seemed to renew the animosity between the two big males. Beau would not respond to his “Off” and “Gotcha” exercises, and the off-leash interaction between the two was not productive; Beau simply wanted to bully Kito unmercifully. We tried removing Kito from the training area to repeat the previous week’s success with Beau and the two girls, but he was too aroused from his interaction with Kito, and jumped on Jessie. For the two boys, the focus for the rest of the classes was on “on-leash” behaviors.

Jessie and Schmaal continued to progress with off-leash and off-muzzle work. Jessie’s owner became adept at reading Jessie’s body language and pre-empting any kind of scuffle with the “Off” cue.

The Final Difficult Dog Class

Kito’s owners called me to say that they had enjoyed the class and felt Kito benefited, but they wouldn’t be attending the last session due to scheduling conflicts. I was disappointed – I thought Kito had much more potential than he was allowed to develop.

As the rest of us began our last class with relaxation exercises, we talked about our goals and how we felt the dogs had done throughout the class. We agreed that Jessie was the star of the class. She was just the right type of dog to benefit the most from a Difficult Dog class – bonded to her owner, food motivated, responsive, and committed to doing her job. She just needed to have her job description rewritten slightly. Her owner, Melanie, reported that while Jessie was not yet 100 percent reliable around other dogs she was much improved. Melanie is confident in her own awareness of canine body language as well as her improved control over her dog to take Jessie places and give her considerably more freedom than she would have in the past.

Stephanie, Schmaal’s owner, was pleased with her progress. While she was nowhere near ready to turn Schmaal loose on the beach with a pack of dogs, she was much more confident in her ability to get Schmaal to respond to her when necessary.

Beau was my biggest disappointment. At Week 6 he was still looking for someone to bully. His eight-year history of dog aggression, along with his owners’ failure to find a suitably enticing reward, proved to be insurmountable obstacles. While he was marginally better behaved on leash around other dogs, and did respond to the relaxation exercises, Beau still had a long way to go.

Growl Classes will continue to be one of my training offerings; there is a crying need to help dogs remember how to be part of a pack. The shame of dog-aggressive breeds, poorly socialized pups, and dogs encouraged or allowed to be aggressive with each other, is our failure. This is a species designed to live and work together in relative harmony, and we have botched the plan. But for many dogs it is not too late. If you have a dog who wants to eat other dogs for breakfast, find your nearest positive reinforcement trainer (who will use treats, praise and other rewards rather than choke or pinch collars) and ask for assistance. If you’re lucky, she may start a Growl Class soon.

Click here to view the dog exercises.

Pat Miller, a freelance writer and dog trainer, is a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Best Nail Clippers For Your Dog

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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It’s really a safe and simple procedure; one that most dog owners can easily learn to perform on their dogs. I have done it to my own dogs since I was a little kid. So it never ceases to amaze me when I ask my training classes how many owners clip their own dogs’ toenails and an average of only one out of eight raise their hands. That means the other seven either neglect this important procedure, or spend hundreds of dollars over a dog’s lifetime to pay someone else to do it.

Because young dogs often wear their nails down naturally by running on hard rough surfaces, we tend to overlook the importance of teaching them to accept nail trimming. Then, when the dog ages, slows down, and needs help with those nails, the procedure is seriously traumatic. Shelter workers and veterinarians tell horror stories of elderly dogs unable to walk because their nails have curled around and grown through their pads.

It is vitally important to teach your dog to accept nail trimming as part of his regular grooming routine. If you start with a puppy or a young dog, wait until she is resting quietly on the floor after a play session, gently clip off the tip end of one or two nails, feed her tasty treats and tell her what a great dog she is, she will grow up thinking that nail trimming is a wonderful thing.

There are several common mistakes that dog owners make when trimming nails. The first is clipping a nail too short (or “quicking” the dog) which causes pain and bleeding and immediately teaches the dog that nail trimming is not fun. This happened to a young puppy of mine, and it took more than a year of desensitization to convince him to accept his pedicure calmly again.

The second major mistake is trying to trim all the dog’s nails in one session. This is fine once the dog learns that nail trimming is a positive thing, but until then, physically restraining a flailing, panicking pooch while insisting that every nail is clipped only makes matters worse. Take the time to do nails one or two at a time, using treats and games to make it fun.

Finally, using poor equipment can make the even most accommodating dog fear nail trimming. Dull blades, tools with only poor visibility (and thus, encourage quicking), and awkward clipper construction can turn nail trimming sessions into nightmares.

To help you with equipment choices, WDJ tested four different nail trimmers on four relatively willing subjects who were accustomed to having their nails “done.”

WDJ Approves

White Nail Scissors
(4-1/2” for small animals)
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc.
Oakland, NJ; (800) 526-0388
$5.95

These scissors were advertised for use with small to medium breeds, and our “WDJ Approves” rating applies to small dogs only.

These scissors are made of nickel-plated steel. They appear solid and well-made and are affordably priced. They work just like a pair of scissors. But while they clipped my eight-pound Pomeranian’s nails easily, they required more force than I liked to cut through the nails of my 25-pound terrier mix.

I like the solid construction and simplicity of these scissors, but their application would be limited to cats and very small dogs. I was also disappointed that the packaging the scissors came in was a plain plastic sleeve with no instructions for use. If your dog is 15 pounds or less, you could give these a try. For anything larger than a Lhasa, keep reading.

Not Recommended

Vista Dog Nail Clipper
(with Safety Stop)
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc.
Oakland, NJ, (800) 526-0388
$7.95

I purchased the medium size clipper, and found it perfectly capable of cutting the nails of my 75-pound Australian cattle dog mix. While advertised as having “heavy steel blades,” the clippers did not appear as well constructed as the previously described nail scissors – in fact the plastic handles appear downright cheap; I doubt they would stand up to heavy use. The instructions on the back of the package are well-illustrated, clear, and easy to understand, and include that all-important warning: “Avoid cutting off too much at one time.” The safety stop is an interesting feature, and may inspire confidence in the nervous, first-time owner/clipper, but would just get in the way for a more experienced nail trimmer. (Fortunately, it can be removed.)

My biggest complaint about these clippers is that the blades don’t line up tightly against each other, so they tend to leave ragged edges on the clipped nail. I suggest you skip this one; there are better clippers available at better prices.

WDJ’s Top Pick

Resco Guillotine Nail Clippers
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc.
Oakland, NJ, (800) 526-0388
$5.85

These are the old stand-by nail clippers that many owners are familiar with. The ominous “guillotine” name comes from the fact that the dog’s nail is inserted through an opening and the blade slices down to chop it off. Without a “safety stop,” the owner must control how much of the nail is inserted through the hole (not an easy task with a wiggling dog). And, as the package instructs, it’s important to slice off only a small amount at a time in order to avoid quicking the dog.

This has long been my favorite nail-trimming tool. It gives a better view of how much nail I am cutting than does the scissors-style clippers. The tool fits solidly in the hand and is easy to grasp and hold. The price is right. The snug blade fit allows for a clean cut. And, best of all, the blades are replaceable. When you start to find ragged edges on your dog’s newly trimmed nails, it’s time for a new blade.

WDJ’s Top Pick

OSTER Electric Nail Grinder
J-B Wholesale Pet Supplies, Inc.
Oakland, NJ, (800) 526-0388
$54.65

This is the tool for the connoisseur of nail trimmers. It is routinely used in the dog-show world to achieve the nub-short nails in vogue for the show ring. It is available in electric and cordless models, and works like a charm, effortlessly grinding away unwanted nail material. Effortlessly, that is, if your dog will allow you anywhere near with the grinder turned on!

Two of my four test dogs tolerated the tool with some initial resistance that was overcome by the liberal use of liver treats. Both dogs were tense about the procedure, and it would take additional desensitization to get them as relaxed about this tool as they are with guillotine clippers. The results of the trim were beautiful – short, rounded nails – shorter than I had ever been able to trim them with the guillotine clippers.

However, my other two test dogs wanted nothing to do with the noisy, vibrating machine. They would stay close for liver bribes when the machine was turned on, but feeling the vibrations against their nails was more than either could tolerate. For these two, a serious desensitization program would have to be implemented before we could successfully grind their nails.

If you are planning to show your dog in the breed ring, the Oster Nail Grinder is a must. Be prepared to spend a considerable amount of time desensitizing your dog to get him or her to accept it. But if you are the average dog owner who just wants to keep your dog’s nails in reasonable shape, the Oster Nail Grinder may be more tool than you will ever need.

One last caution. Don’t count on the package instructions to help you put the Grinder together. After a good bit of struggling, I finally took it to my husband. In typical male fashion he ignored the instructions and managed to put the grinder together by pushing and prodding until the right parts were in the right places.

Spring Into Better Health

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
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Smedly is one lucky dog. He gets a minimum of a half-hour of hard exercise every day. On many days, he gets a lot more. Long hikes in the woods, runs on the beach, swimming, and chasing tennis balls are all part of his regular routine. In addition, Smedly trains for agility a couple of times a week. For some of us, this may seem like a lot of exercise. But for a healthy, fit, two-year-old Border Collie mix like Smedly, a high level of exercise is a necessity.

“If he doesn’t get enough exercise, he doesn’t relax at home,” says Betsy Jones, who shares her life with Smedly. From the day she brought him home from the shelter as a six-week-old puppy, he’s needed a lot of exercise. And, if he doesn’t get it, they both suffer. “He becomes hyper-vigilant about every sound and movement outside the window. He bothers the cat, too.”

In fact, when dogs don’t get enough exercise, they are much more likely to bark at the neighbors, chew on things they shouldn’t, dig holes in the garden and generally get into trouble. Dogs who are in good shape and getting plenty of exercise tend to act out less. You’ve probably seen it with your dog. Simply giving your dog enough exercise can dramatically reduce problem behaviors and make life a whole lot more enjoyable.

But the behavioral benefits of exercise are only the beginning. Regular exercise can also help your dog live a healthier life. Just like with people, walking, running, swimming and other physical activities can strengthen a dog’s heart and lungs and help ward off serious diseases. Regular exercise strengthens bones and muscles, too. Because stronger muscles can help stabilize joints, exercise may even slow the progression of degenerative joint diseases such as hip dysplasia and arthritis.

Plus, exercise can keep your dog from putting on extra pounds – or help them take it off if they are already on the chubby side. “Being lean is the key to good health in dogs,” says Dr. Kerrin Hoban, a veterinarian who practices in Santa Cruz, California. “And being fit can help dogs stay lean.”

How much is enough?
Not every dog will need the kind of exercise that Jones gives Smedly. Some dogs will need less – some only need a little. Part of your job as your dog’s caretaker and coach is to determine how much is just right.

Size and body type play an important part in how much exercise is right. Small, short-legged dogs may be able to get by on a half-mile walk a day whereas a medium-sized, long legged dog might enjoy several-mile runs each day.

“Mooch, who is a cross between Benji and Toto, weighs 17 pounds and has 4-inch legs. She only needs about a half hour walk a day,” says Cynthia Landis, who lives in Los Angeles, California with her two mixed breed dogs. She compares Mooch’s needs to her young dog Rudy, a seven-month-old Retriever-Shepherd mix. “Ideally, Rudy needs at least an hour walk plus a couple of ball sessions every day.”

Age can also affect your dog’s needs for activity. Puppies younger than six months need only moderate exercise; people need to take care to avoid over-exercising pups. Until a dog is about two years old, it’s also a good idea to avoid very strenuous, repetitive, or jarring exercises that may impact their bone and joint development. Older dogs (it depends on the breed or mix, but dogs over seven years of age are generally considered “older”) may also have special needs. Older dogs generally thrive on regular exercise, but you may need to decrease the amount or intensity.

Just as important as size, body type and age, is the lifestyle we expect our dogs to live. For some, having your dog in shape will simply mean the bare minimum to keep him or her in good health. You may be able to help your dog achieve physical fitness goals through daily walks or other casual activities. Others may enjoy sharing more strenuous activities such as hiking or biking. Still others may train for competitive sports such as agility or Frisbee or have working dogs whose jobs may require extreme fitness (search and rescue dogs, for example). Your dog’s workout routine may need to be specifically designed to support your and your dog’s lifestyle as well as his overall health.

A word of caution: If you expect your dog to share strenuous activities such as grueling hikes or agility, daily exercise becomes even more important. Avoid the weekend warrior syndrome. Dogs (and people too!) who engage in sports or other strenuous activities sporadically are at a much greater risk for serious injuries than those who workout regularly.

Talk to your vet
It is always a good idea to check with your veterinarian before you start a conditioning or exercise program. Ask your veterinarian to assess your dog’s heart, respiratory system, muscular and skeletal condition, and general health. This is an especially good idea if your dog is overweight or has medical conditions that may affect exercise needs.

Overweight dogs, for example, are at higher risk of orthopedic problems and shouldn’t do too much running that involves quick turns until they have slimmed down. Your veterinarian can help you decide how much weight your dog needs to lose and how to best lose that weight, including suggestions for changing your dog’s diet and exercise.

“I have people start with walking until the dog is at a normal weight,” says Dr. Hoban. “Once the dog is at a normal weight, then you can increase the exercise.”

You may also want to ask your veterinarian for suggestions on diet if your dog is engaging in a more strenuous conditioning program. Dogs who are training for endurance sports like sled racing or long backpacking excursions may need to eat a higher-energy or higher-fat diet.

If your dog has joint problems or arthritis, your veterinarian can give you advice on how much and what type of exercise will be best. For most dogs with arthritis, for example, regular exercise of moderate intensity is recommended. But, you should stop the exercise at the first sign of fatigue (slowing down, panting, toe scuffing) to avoid aggravating the condition.

Choose activities you enjoy
Many of us have tried the old drudgery exercise routine in our lives. You know, signing up at a gym, going for the first week, then never going again. How can you make it different now for you and your dog?

There is little doubt that most of our dogs love some type of exercise – walking, running, chasing balls or romping with other dogs. The secret is making it fun for you both. The more fun you have, the more likely you are to stick with it. Doing a variety of different activities will make it all the more fun for you and your dog. Plus, by doing a variety of activities, you’ll have the added benefit of canine cross training!

Warm up, cool down, have fun
Just what activities are good for turning your couch puppy into a canine athlete? The following are just a few suggestions to get you started. But before going all-out with any of the exercises described below – or any other strenuous activity – help your dog warm up and cool down. Just like with people, warming up the muscles will help prevent injury. You can have your dog warm up as a natural part of the activity. For example, take it slowly on the first 5 to 10 minutes of your walk or jog, and go slowly again at the end for a cool down.

You may also want to have your dog do specific movements after he or she is warmed up to stretch the muscles. Play bows and figure eight weaves between your legs are good ways to get your dog to gently stretch and twist. And, after a hard workout, a massage can help your dog loosen up and ease sore muscles. (See “Pre- and Post-Sports Massage,” WDJ August 2000 for more information on canine massage.)

Walking and Hiking
This is the all-time favorite pastime for most of us with dogs. It’s easy, cheap and requires only a good pair of shoes, a leash and a pooper-scooper or plastic bags. You can take neighborhood walks or head for local hiking trails. When you walk for exercise, keep up a good pace, slowly increase the length of the walks and head for increasingly hilly terrain. Have fun exploring new places.

Jogging
Dogs make great jogging companions and jogging is a quick and efficient exercise. It’s a good way for both you and your dog to get a good workout – especially if you have limited time. Be careful, however, not to jog long distances with your dog on sidewalks and streets. Choose to run through parks or other areas with more forgiving surfaces such as dirt or grass. Running on hard surfaces makes dogs more susceptible to strain on their joints and bones; remember, they don’t have the added protection offered by a pair of good running shoes.

Swimming
Swimming is great exercise for dogs. It is especially good for dogs with joint problems or arthritis because swimming builds endurance and strength without stressing joints. If you have access to a pool, lake, or pond that is safe for swimming, and if your dog likes water, you’re set. Retrieving a ball or bumper will make it all the more fun.

Make sure the water is flat or slow moving, is free of underwater hidden obstacles, and is warm enough for safe swimming (if the water is cold enough that it would be unthinkable for you to swim in the water, it’s probably too cold for your dog to swim, too). Please note: Dogs can easily overdo swimming. Use caution and know your dog’s limits. (See “In the Swim,” WDJ August 2000, for tips on safe swimming and information on positive swim training.)

Retrieving
Does your dog like to play retrieving games? Tossing a tennis ball or Frisbee for your dog can keep him running with little effort on your part. It’s a great exercise for busy days when you don’t have quite enough time for a long outing or if you have physical limitations that make it hard to take long walks. For a variation that gets your dog running but saves your arm, use a tennis or racquetball racket to hit the ball. Keeping the ball or Frisbee low will help reduce the risks associated with jumping high in the air or twisting for the catch.

Agility, Flyball and Flygility
These are just a few of the many dog sports you and your dog can play for fun and exercise. Agility is a sport where you direct your dog through a timed obstacle course of jumps, tunnels, and climbing structures. In flyball, a team of four dogs runs a relay race. Each dog goes over a series of hurdles, steps on a spring-loaded box, catches the ball that is shot from the box, and then runs back over the hurdles. Flygility is a newer sport that combines elements of both agility and flyball. The great advantage of sports like agility or flyball is that they combine exercise, training and play all into one. These sports can be played for fun or competition and are a great way for you to get to know other dogs and their people.

Canine Musical Freestyle
If canine sports don’t strike your fancy, how about dancing with your dog? Musical Freestyle is both great exercise and great fun. People and dogs work out a choreographed dance routine that includes elements of obedience and trick training. Music, dogs, dance. What more could you want?

Hide and Seek and Other Indoor Games
Don’t let bad weather cancel your dog’s exercise! Teaching your dog to search for hidden objects is a great game that can be played indoors or wet or snowy days. The basic idea is to hide your dog’s favorite toy and have him find it. When your dog is first learning the game, you can hide it with your dog watching. Then, slowly increase the difficulty until you hide it in another room and send your dog to find it.

For dogs that aren’t into toys, you can hide a bone or stuffed Kong. Or, try hiding yourself. Leave your dog on a stay in one room and hide in another. Then call, “Come find me.” The more excited you are when your dog finds you, the better he or she will like the game.

Uncountable benefits
Exercising is good for your dog. Dogs who exercise are better behaved, easier to live with and overall healthier. Plus, providing your dog with opportunities to exercise is a great way to spend time together.

“Hiking in the woods on rugged trails swimming in the lake, chasing sticks on the beach – with dogs, it’s all about playing,” says Jones about her time exercising with Smedly. “We can really learn a lot from our dogs. They make play out of their work. Smedly reminds me to play and gives me a partner in play. And playing together makes us better friends.”

-By Mardi Richmond

 

One Lucky Puppy

By
Nancy Kerns
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When our grandparents (or perhaps great-grandparents) were children, it was not uncommon for people to have big families – say, eight or 10 or more kids – but to have only a few survive due to childhood diseases, a lack of modern medical care, and, sometimes, poor nutrition.

This is a story of Dusty, a dog with just such a background; he is the sole survivor from a litter of 11 puppies. But despite being born in modern times, superior medical care and technology failed to save Dusty’s siblings. Sometimes, Dusty’s story shows us, it takes luck (what our grandparents had), advanced medical care (what most of us have access to today), AND non-traditional care and treatments to cure what ails us.

A bad start
By the time Dusty’s mother, Karma, had delivered her first three puppies, 2 a.m. had come and gone. A fourth puppy seemed to be stuck in the birth canal, and it was evident from Karma’s belly that more pups were waiting for their turn to enter the world. Gretchen Shelby, Karma’s owner, found herself calling her veterinarian and rushing the distressed dog and her puppies to an emergency veterinary clinic.

Unfortunately, even with the best efforts of the attending veterinarian, Karma died on the surgery table. She was just under two years old. The veterinarian completed the emergency cesarean section and delivered another seven puppies for a total of 11.

Shelby, a long-time dog breeder and exhibitor, knew what would be required to save the puppies. She called a number of breeders she knew and found a foster mother to nurse the puppies, and bought some milk replacer, in case the foster mother could not supply the amount needed by he large brood. She also divided her family members into teams to “baby-sit” in the nursery for the first few days.

All went well for about a week, when two pups abruptly quit eating and started crying frequently. Shelby’s veterinarian administered fluids, and the puppies improved immediately, but then, just as quickly, went on a downhill slide. After 48 hours of crying, vomiting, difficult excretion, and repeated visits to the veterinarian, the two pups died within an hour of each other. Within days, two more started behaving in the same manner, and then several more. At two weeks of age, only four puppies from the litter, Dusty included, still survived.

Shelby spent her days on the phone, asking everyone she knew for advice. One dog show acquaintance and fellow Basset breeder, Marina Zacharias, gave her a homeopathic preparation called “Fading Puppy Remedy.” Though she had no experience with using any kind of non-traditional treatments, Shelby administered the remedy to the remaining pups. It didn’t miraculously cure the puppies, but on the other hand, none of the four got any worse in that time period. It was something to think about.

Referral to a specialist
Unfortunately, there was a lot to think about. Shelby’s regular veterinarian was mystified by the puppies’ condition. He directed Shelby to a clinic equipped with more diagnostic and laboratory equipment. She duly drove the puppies and the foster mother to Portland, to see Dr. Robert Franklin at the Veterinary Referral Clinic.

Dr. Franklin surmised that, while pregnant, poor Karma had acquired a bacterial infection that contributed to her demise, and that was evidenced in the pups.

“Tissues of a developing fetus are susceptible to an infection process in utero, a process that can sometimes lead to compromised organ function in the offspring postpartum,” Dr. Franklin explains. Lab tests brought to light further challenges: the puppies’ adrenal function was zip, and the puppies’ kidneys were barely functioning.

Aggressive conventional medical intervention seemed to save the day. Franklin administered prednisone, fluids, and other medications to the puppies, and instructed Shelby in the art of administering fluids via IV catheter. He sent the puppies home in a car piled high with supplies for at-home treatment. Given a diagnosis explaining the tragedies thus far, all concerned were optimistic about the puppies’ future.

Three weeks later, the pups were all flourishing. Follow-up blood tests showed the puppies’ kidney function to be normal, but Shelby was warned to remain cautious, as any or all of the pups could still show up kidney compromised later.

At 12 weeks, with yet another blood test confirming proper kidney function, Shelby placed two of the puppies (the two with the best results on their blood tests) with families, keeping the two with the lesser kidney function values. The families knew their puppies’ medical histories, and agreed to re-test each pup at six months of age.

Another death
At seven months, another death struck Karma’s babies. “Moses,” one of the puppies that Shelby had given to a family died shortly after his family returned from an extended vacation, despite last-minute medical intervention. Shelby was frustrated, because it seemed that if the family had responded more quickly to the young dog’s symptoms (increased urination, increased thirst, decreased appetite and lethargy), a veterinarian could have saved him.

Moses’ death by what was surely kidney failure galvanized Shelby, who ordered blood tests for the three remaining offspring. Sadly, all three showed definite kidney damage. Conventional veterinary wisdom held that until a crisis occurred, the owners could do nothing for the dogs other than feed a prescription kidney diet.

Shelby put everything that Dr. Franklin suggested into practice, but she was frustrated, feeling that perhaps she could be doing more. She decided to seek further help from her friend Zacharias, who had come forward with the “Fading Puppy” remedy. Since Dusty had the worst blood values of the three puppies, Shelby decided to use him as a sort of guinea pig to test the potential benefits of holistic medicine. She followed all the veterinarian’s suggestions for Promise, including putting the female puppy on Hills’ K/D (kidney diet), and let Zacharias make the decisions for Dusty’s care.

A “holistic” experiment
Zacharias, a certified homotoxicologist and NAET practitioner from Jacksonville, Oregon, suggested that Dusty be put on an aggressive holistic regimen that included an advanced “kidney” diet.

“It’s not just the amount of protein that could be harmful to a kidney compromised animal, but the quality, too,” comments Zacharias. “Commercial foods often contain inferior protein sources, so you should really check out what ingredients are actually contained in the food you buy.”

This approach was endorsed by Dr. Franklin, who concurs that “Nutrition is key in animal health, and especially in those functionally compromised. Homemade diets to accommodate kidney dysfunction can be beneficial.”

Zacharias based Dusty’s diet on a quality dry senior food diet low in protein (“Nature’s Recipe Senior”), generously augmented with fresh, wholesome foods. She would have preferred for Shelby to feed a completely homemade diet, but, being new to holistic care and lacking proof that all the fuss would pay off, Shelby was not quite ready for that kind of involvement. Dusty also received several glandular supplements to lend specific support to the kidneys, adrenal, gonad, and pituitary functions, and a liver supplement, since, as Zacharias says, “You really have to think of the liver when you’re considering support for the kidneys.” Homeopathic remedies, also played a role. “We give our kidney cases some specialty homeopathics from Germany that are a crucial part in achieving success in kidney failure cases,” says Zacharias.

At about this time, with the onset of winter, “Cupcake,” the other puppy that Shelby had given away, began to decline. Despite veterinary intervention, her kidneys began to fail, and her family had her put to sleep.

A few months later, despite Promise’s initially better condition, she began to decline. Tests confirmed that her kidneys were failing. Since Dusty was still doing well, Shelby began giving Promise all the supplements that Dusty was receiving. Dr. Franklin changed her diet, and added other supplements, which seemed to buy her a little time. However, she, too, eventually died, at just a year and a half old.

Devotion to Dusty
Promise’s death underscored the importance of Dusty’s top-quality diet and supplements, as well as the effectiveness of the holistic approach. Shelby had Dusty’s blood tested every three months, and every panel indicated his kidneys were functioning well.

As time went by and Dusty seemed to maintain good health, Shelby began showing the handsome Basset. She kept a close eye on his every symptom for fear that the stress of training and showing might upset his system. But Dusty continued to thrive as he worked steadily toward his AKC championship.

Today, at three and a half years old, Dusty is an AKC Champion – and a father! He’s begun a career at stud, and Shelby was thrilled to see his first progeny looking just like him.

Shelby has enjoyed several victories with her favorite dog, including a large specialty Best Puppy in Sweepstakes, Winner’s Dog, and Best of Winners at the Basset Hound Club of America’s Western Regional Specialty Show. She is also a strong believer in using the best of non-traditional therapies in conjunction with traditional veterinary medicine. The approach takes lots of extra time and trouble, she says, but it’s worth it.

“I will never gripe about the number of pills and treatments I’ve given Dusty. It’s all been worth it! Each day is a gift I cherish with this loving dog,” she says.

-By Susan Eskew

Writer Susan Eskew, of Crested Butte, Colorado, is a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Marina Zacharias can be reached in Jacksonville, Oregon at (541) 899-2080.

No Miracle Products

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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No pull dog harnesses are useful, but not a replacement for training.

It’s a never-ending quest – like looking for the Holy Grail – the search for the perfect piece of humane equipment that will teach your dog not to pull on the leash. Here’s a tip: it doesn’t exist.

Any piece of equipment is merely a tool that opens a training window for you. To use it correctly, you must take advantage of that open window to reinforce the behavior that the tool encourages the dog to offer. If you fail to consistently reward the desired behavior when it happens, the tool becomes a crutch that you rely on to make the behavior happen. In worst case scenarios, the dog learns to ignore the tool and reverts to his former behavior even with it on.

What you want, instead, is for the dog to learn the desired behavior – not pulling – so you can wean him off the tool and still have him offer the desired behavior, independent of the presence of the piece of equipment.

This is not a new phenomenon, or one specific to positive training. Many dog owners who train with compulsion methods are dismayed to realize that some dogs quickly learn that they only have to respond when the choke chain (or prong collar, or shock collar) is on. Other dogs learn to lean into a choke chain or prong collar and ignore the pressure or pain that it applies to their necks, just as some dogs learn to lean into a head halter or no-pull harness.

That doesn’t mean those tools are worthless. It means that you must disregard the claims on the label and it means that you will have to actually train your dog – not rely on the equipment you use to do the job for you.

That said, let’s take a look at two of the many types of products currently on the market that claim to make your dog stop pulling on the leash.

No-pull harnesses
No-pull harnesses work on the principle of negative reinforcement, that is, the dog’s behavior makes a bad thing (varying from mild discomfort to a painful pinching) go away.

All three of the no-pull harnesses we found in catalogs and stores fit around the neck and chest or legs of the dog. When the dog pulls, the harnesses tighten around the dog’s chest or legs. This causes discomfort to the dog, depending on how hard he pulls and his individual sensitivity level, or the dog may simply react to the novelty of the sensation of pressure. When the dog stops pulling, the “bad thing” – the pressure – goes away.

If, at that moment, you Click! and reward the dog for being on a loose leash, you will mark and reinforce the desired behavior. If you then continue to Click! and reward him for keeping the leash loose, you will use the no-pull harness as it should be used – as a training tool.

But if you wait until he is leaning into the harness again, and rely on the equipment to stop him from pulling every time, you are using it as a crutch. In this case, it’s unlikely that he will ever learn to walk nicely on a leash without the harness, especially if he is already a dedicated puller.

Best no-pull training harness
We were only able to find three no-pull harnesses on the commercial market. Of these, only one gets our top rating of 4 Paws: The J.S. Sporn Halter, produced by Yuppie Puppy Pet Care, Inc. in New York, New York. This harness is well-designed and made of high quality materials. It is the easiest of the three to put on the dog – the red nylon collar snaps around the dog’s neck like a regular collar, and nylon cords run through a ring on the back of the collar, under the dog’s front legs, and back up to the front of the collar. Sherpa sleeves fit over the cord and rest under the dog’s armpits so the cord doesn’t rub.

One of the important differences between the Sporn Halter and the other brands is that the leash attaches to the cords at the dog’s neck. This provides a greater degree of control than the others, which attach over the middle of the dog’s back and allow the dog to spin on the leash.

Another important design feature is the collar itself, which prevents the dog from pulling backwards out of the harness – a disturbing and dangerous phenomenon that we discovered with at least one of the other two brands.

A drop in rating
Our regard for the next two products is considerably lower than for the Sporn Harness.

The Pro-Stop! Gentle Restraining Harness, from Ethical Products, Inc. in Newark, New Jersey, uses a slightly different concept to discourage pulling. One strap of the harness fits around the dog’s midsection just behind the shoulders, and a neoprene-padded strap snaps around each of the dog’s front legs, just above the elbow. The leg strap from each side runs up the harness and through a metal “D” ring near the top, and the straps join at a loose ring, to which the leash is attached. Another strap at the top links the harness to the dog’s regular collar, to prevent the harness from sliding down the dog’s back. When the dog pulls, the straps around the legs tighten, ostensibly causing the dog to stop pulling.

The Pro-Stop! is somewhat more difficult to put on the dog than the Sporn Halter. While most dogs are accustomed to having a collar put on their necks, it is more of a challenge to buckle a strap around a dog’s midsection – especially one who is bouncing about in anticipation of a walk. Some of the materials of this harness appear to be of a slightly lesser quality than the Sporn: the nylon is thinner, narrower, and not as soft, and the leg padding is a thin neoprene material that appears less durable than the padding on the Sporn Halter.

Our least favorite feature of the Pro-Stop!, however, is that, since the straps tighten around the dog’s legs, they actually impede the dog’s normal range of motion. While some of our test dogs appeared undisturbed by this, others were quite perturbed, and resisted moving forward at all.

The Holt Control Harness, from Coastal Pet Products in Alliance, Ohio, is the least expensive of the three no-pull harnesses, and our tests demonstrated why.

First, it is the most difficult to put on the dog. It consists simply of two connected openings, one large, one small, formed by a nylon cord threaded through a number of pieces of metal hardware. The nylon loops slip over the dog’ head, then the dog’s front legs have to be physically manipulated through the appropriate openings, which, again, can be difficult with an active dog.

The instructions are somewhat difficult to follow, with various references to letters indicated on the accompanying diagram. The materials are of lesser quality than the other two harnesses, and there is no padding to protect the dog’s sensitive underarm area from chafing.

Our greatest concern with the Holt Harness is the combination of the mid-back connection which allows the dog to spin on the leash, and the absence of any attachment to a real collar. This means that a determined dog can spin, pull back, slip out of the harness and run free. Definitely a serious design flaw!

Discouraging noises?
Well-designed no-pull beeps or whistles can work well as a positive training tool for some dogs – especially those who are intrigued by high-pitched squeaky toy noises.

How well noisemakers work in no-pull applictions is less clear. We found two noise-based, no-pull training products, and both purport to train the dog not to pull simply on the basis of the emitted sound. This is just plain impossible, especially since neither of the noises emitted by these products are particularly unpleasant or aversive.

It is imperative that you reinforce the dog with a reward when he pauses at the sound emitted by the product. The sound itself is not inherently reinforcing to the dog; it is simply a behavior interrupter, or attention-getter. He will learn to ignore the beep or whistle if it is not paired with a reward – preferably a treat – at least at first. Good no-pull noisemakers utilize the principle of positive reinforcement, in which the dog’s behavior (not pulling), makes a good thing (the reward) happen.

Don’t follow the directions
We think the Happy Walker Leash Trainer by Amtek Pet Behavior Products, of San Diego, California, can be a useful training tool, although, for the reasons listed above, we would use it a little differently than the maker describes in the package directions.

The Happy Walker attaches to your regular leash with two rubber retaining rings. A small button on the Walker rests against the leash, and when the dog pulls, the leash presses the button, causing the device to make a loud, high pitched “Beep”!

Amtek describes the beep as an aversive, and says the dog will learn to stop pulling in order to avoid making the beep happen. Our test dogs liked the beep – like the squeaker of a plush toy. In fact, when we pushed the button manually, they all ran over to see what was making the noise. Therefore, the beep is more of a positive interrupt than an aversive – the dog pauses to check out the sound, which gives you the opportunity to Click! and reward for the loose leash.

If you then seize the window of opportunity to continue clicking and rewarding for the loose leash, rather than waiting for the dog to pull and make the beep happen again, you are training the dog to walk on a loose leash rather than using the Happy Walker as a crutch.

The device comes with a miniature 12-volt battery, and if used properly, you should never have to replace it – your dog will learn to walk on a loose leash long before you wear the battery down.

We would encourage Amtek to change their packaging. They claim that the Happy Walker “automatically” stops dogs from pulling on leash – thereby encouraging its use as a crutch rather than a real training tool. If they rewrote that and their instructions for use, we’d have no complaints at all!

A whistle (and a yank)
At the other end of the sound-gadget spectrum is the Wonder Whistle from K-II Enterprises in Syracuse, New York. This is a sturdy, tubular plastic whistle that snaps to the dog’s collar ring at one end. Your leash snaps onto to the other end. It works mechanically, not electronically, and requires a sharp jerk on the leash to sound the device’s whistle. While the company states that the “Toot” of the whistle causes the dog to stop pulling, we suspect that the old “jerk on the collar” is responsible for at least as much improvement in the dog’s leash manners as the “Toot” is. Since we don’t condone the use of force in training, we don’t recommend you try the Wonder Whistle in its present form. We do like the idea of a sound device that doesn’t need batteries, however, and if the company could considerably reduce the amount of pressure needed to make the whistle sound so that it didn’t require a jerk on the leash, they might be on to something!

Canine Road Rage

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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I have a friend with an eight month old dog who has gotten very aggressive all of a sudden. It happens only when he is in his crate and when he is in the car, where he attacks the steering wheel and the keys. His owner was crying to me tonight about how she would have to get rid of the dog if he kept this up. He is a puppy mill dog and I don’t know if this is part of the reason for this problem.

I have given them some suggestions on social dominance but I am not sure that is the problem. They don’t allow him on the sofa or bed, and they don’t feed him table food; in fact, they eat before he eats. These are all things that have been suggested to me but I am not sure this is going to work. To me it sounds like rage syndrome.

-S.W., Indianapolis, IN

Pat Miller, WDJ’s Dog Training Editor, answers this question for us. Miller offers private and group dog training classes from her base in Fairplay, Maryland. Miller responds:

Certainly, puppy mill and other poorly-bred puppies are at a higher risk for genetically unstable temperaments. In this case, it is good that his behavior is limited to two very specific circumstances. Aggression is easier to deal with when we can identify the triggers and predict the behavior. In the crate, it could be territorial or defensive. Have the owners ever punished him in the crate? Have kids ever teased him there? In the car, it sounds like he may just be aroused about going for a ride, or it could also be territorial or possession aggression.

I tend to minimize the importance of social dominance. The dominance concept has been way overused, and tends to give people permission to use harsh punishment. I focus more on the terms leadership and deference. I restrict a dog from the bed or sofa only if a problem is occurring there. Otherwise, I simply teach the dog (using positive methods) to remove himself from those places when I ask him to leave. That is, he defers to me. When the dog is on the sofa, for example, say “off” and toss a treat on the floor. When he jumps off to get the treat, Click! your clicker (or say “yes!” in a pleasant tone of voice) and feed him another treat. Make it a fun and rewarding game, and he will happily leave the bed or sofa whenever you ask.

I see nothing wrong with feeding table scraps. The dog doesn’t know it’s people food unless you feed it to him from your plate. I prefer not to feed from my plate because I don’t want my dogs begging when I eat, but they get people food in their bowls and as training treats all the time.

I also don’t believe that eating before our dogs or going through doors first teaches them anything about dominance. Teaching them to “wait” at a door every time before you allow them to go through does teach them good manners and deference, however, as does teaching them to sit and wait for their food bowl until you release them to eat.

I would start this dog on a Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF) program, in which he must earn all good things. He needs to learn to sit for attention or for treats, or for his ball to be thrown, or to make any good thing happen. He also needs to learn that very good things happen when he is in his crate. No punishment for his aggression you will just convince him that he is right to be upset when people approach. Have one of his owners stand near the crate and just wait until he is calm. Then Click! the clicker and feed him a treat.

As long as the Click! happens while he is calm, go ahead and feed the treat even if he gets cranky when they drop it in. Keep doing this and you should shortly see him calming down as he learns to anticipate the treat when he hears the Click! Eventually, he will also anticipate people approaching the crate because he knows good things are coming. When he is over the worst of the behavior, have the owners walk past while he is in the crate and just drop treats without clicking first until he is totally convinced that having someone approach his crate is a very wonderful thing.

I would manage the car behavior by seat belting him into the back seat, at least until the NILIF program has had a chance to take effect. If he jumps into the car and immediately takes up his position at the steering wheel, have them leash him and lead him to the back seat when they take him to the car so he can’t get to the front.

I would also suggest having them read Jean Donaldson’s wonderful book, The Culture Clash (James and Kenneth, 1996) to help them better understand what’s going on in an aggressive dog’s brain, and sign them up for a basic training class with a good positive trainer so they can learn how to communicate better with their dog (and vice versa!). If the dog is not already neutered, I would do that immediately as well. It may or may not help with the behavior challenge, but it will certainly ensure that he doesn’t produce more puppies with his aggression problem.

Finally, I don’t believe that this is rage syndrome, also known as idiopathic aggression. True rage syndrome is rare, and has no definable pattern or cause. You have clearly identified the pattern and the triggers in this case. Good luck and let us know the outcome.

Crimes and Kudos

By
Nancy Kerns
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We are quite late in publishing a few corrections and small announcements, so we’re taking this space to catch up. The corrections are most important:

In our article, “Best in Bags,” published in the February 2001 issue, we listed an altogether incorrect web site address for Flint River Ranch. The address given was for another dog food company that has no affiliation with Flint River; we simply had a momentary loss of reason, and we apologize for any confusion we caused.

We’d love to list the correct address for Flint River here, but there are (no kidding) hundreds of them. You see, the company does not have its own, central web site, but allows its independent distributors to publish their own sites, and many of them do. Nor would it be fair for us to list one, or a few of these independent distributors’ sites; it would be extremely unfair to all the other distributors. Our suggestion for all you web-surfing dudes and gals? Just type the words “Flint River” and “dog food” into the Internet search engine of your choice and then step back! You’ll find everything you are looking for and more.

Next, an incorrect sequence of events was described in the very last paragraph of “The Cop and the Clicker,” published in the March 2001 issue. Author and trainer Robin McHale-Ehn has explained our editing error to us quite thoroughly, but we still fail to appreciate the fullness of our technical lapse.

We appreciate Ms. Ehn’s patience with us (she’s a professional trainer, after all, and we’re not), and wish to make it clear that she knew what she was doing with the dog she was training – something about building a behavior chain. In a ruthless effort to get the article to fit in its intended space, we put clicks where they didn’t belong, and maybe left one out. Anyway, the dog turned out fine. Ms. Ehn is available to explain what really happened in that last paragraph to people who know what behavior chains are; she suggests interested readers contact her via email: carepaws@shasta.com. Is it hot in here, or is it just me?

Multiple kudos to Pat Miller
The following announcements are grievously overdue; we should have been bragging about them long ago.

Regular readers are familiar with the work of WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller. Way back in October 2000, we were honored to be sitting with Mrs. Miller at the awards banquet held during the annual meeting of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT), held in Houston, Texas. Yes, it’s true, we’ve shared more than one vegetarian meal with Pat, but this was special. Twice, our friend had to stand up and accept awards from the APDT Board (and there we were, at the edge of the spotlight!). Pat received the APDT’s John Fisher Scholarship Award for an article that most perfectly met the selection criteria of “teaching others to seek a deeper understanding of our companion dogs, their motivation, and how and what they learn.”

As if that wasn’t enough, Pat was honored as the APDT’s “Outstanding Member of the Year,” awarded to the APDT member who is judged to have made the greatest contribution to APDT through volunteer work on behalf of APDT and within the animal community.

And finally, in December, the APDT announced that Pat had been elected to the APDT Board by a vote of the membership. Congratulations, Pat! It’s great to see you getting recognition for your positively awesome body of work.

Another WDJ author wins editorial award
More recently, the Dog Writers Association of America announced their 2000 editorial excellence awards, and we were surprised and happy to see an article from our July 2000 issue, “Hidden Killers in Dog Food,” take a prize for best individual feature article in a general interest dog magazine. Congratulations to author Cindy Cramer, who found little to celebrate as she experienced the events she recounted in the cautionary article. She very nearly lost her beloved German Shepherd, Xeus, to a mold-based toxin that had infected the commercial food she was feeding at the time, and attempts to gain information about the food and the toxins brought unexpected brickbats from fans of the food manufacturer. Cindy, Xeus, and (hopefully) the food are all fine now.

If you weren’t a subscriber last July, that issue is worth ordering from our publisher (you can contact our customer service department at 800-424-7887 or customer_service@belvoir.com).

WDJ readers are the best!
Back in October, we ran a short news piece about Greg Tilford and Mary Wulff-Tilford, authors of Herbs for Pets (1999, Bowtie Press) and well-known in the holistic animal care community for their research into using herbs to treat animals. The Tilfords lost their (uninsured) home and herb gardens in the wildfires that swept rural Montana last summer. Perhaps most deeply felt was the loss of their lifelong collection of herb books and decades of research material.Their herbal tincture manufacturing business, Animals’ Apawthecary, located in another part of Montana, was unharmed.

We asked if people might be able to help the Tilfords with donations of money or herb books to help replace a fraction of what they lost. WDJ readers came through with $2,400 in donations and piles of books, and Grey and Mary were quite overwhelmed and appreciative.

Answers From Experts 02/99

By
Nancy Kerns
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We love our Labrador Retriever, Bailey, very much. We rescued her when she was six weeks old. She is now almost two years old.

We believe that a dog is part of the family and therefore should live inside the house with the rest of the family. However, we were warned about Labs and their desire to chew and need for a lot of exercise. We were prepared for the worst. We limited Bailey’s living quarters to the kitchen and family room. There is a dog door in the kitchen that allows her to go outside whenever she pleases. We restricted her to this area for the first year of her life. We now find that when we take the barriers down, she prefers to stay in that area.

Bailey went through the normal teething stage that most puppies go through. We lost a couple of chairs and a cabinet. However, we were prepared and knew that it was one of the downfalls of having such an adorable puppy. But she is no longer a puppy.

We provide Bailey with a lot of love and attention – maybe too much! My husband works nights and I work days so that Bailey has someone with her most of the time. However, there are occasions when we both need to be gone for an entire day. We try our best to leave her plenty of toys and rawhide bones (her favorite). We find that when we are gone, Bailey will not play with her toys or eat her bones. She will wait until we return and then she plays and chews on her bone. And if we leave her alone for more than six hours, say, she chews on the couch.

This horrible habit started about a year ago. I have tried everything to stop her. She actually likes the taste of that bitter apple repellent. It is difficult to cover the entire couch with pepper spray. We thought that this was another habit she would outgrow, but she hasn’t. She no longer chews on the other furniture or the carpet, so I don’t think it is just a chewing fetish. Bailey is a very smart dog, and initially, I thought it was revenge for leaving her for so long. Then I thought she was trying to send up a message: “Don’t leave me again!”

Most trainers suggest using toys, but she has a whole collection and that doesn’t work. Some trainers have suggested locking her outside when we are not home. I would hate to lock her out in the rain or excessive heat. The problem is that Bailey doesn’t do this bad behavior when we are home so there is no way to correct her.

Do you have any suggestions?

-Lisa Duran
San Jose, CA

We directed this question to Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and dog trainer residing in Berkeley, CA. A native of England, Dr. Dunbar is the founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the creator of the K9 Games, and is well-known for his renowned Sirius Puppy Training program, which he describes in his popular books and instructional videos.

First, let me commend you on what is obviously a caring relationship you share with your dog. I thoroughly agree with you that locking a dog out of a house because he or she is destroying the inside is NOT a logical solution to the problem. Taking that approach might have saved your couch, but would have only put your landscaping and fence at risk, not to mention your relationship with your neighbors. When a dog has a problem with the absence of his or her owner, “throwing the dog out” will only promote further misbehavior, usually including barking, howling, and digging.

And lest you feel alone, let me assure you that this is both a common problem and a simple one to solve. Golden Retrievers and Labradors are two of the most common breeds, and, as social, active dogs, they very commonly find this kind of trouble to get into. In fact, many Labs, especially field dogs, are so active, they actually manifest what borders on an obsessive/compulsive disorder. I don’t want to upset you or other Lab people here; this can actually be a good thing, because it is so easy to channel the dog’s restlessness into good behavior. A dog who wants to do stuff is easy to direct.

The answer is to get the dog focused on chew toys to the point where she is virtually a “chew toyaholic.” You are going to use her obsessions and compulsions and simply redirect them from worrying about your absence and dismantling the couch, to chewing on a chew toy, specifically at times when you are absent.

But wait! You said the dog has a lot of chew toys, but that she won’t play with them while you are gone. Right. Then you need to get rid of the dog’s food bowl. What? Hang on, I’m still making sense:

If the dog is fed out of a food bowl, you are actually giving away a couple hundred rewards a day for free. From now on, feed this dog only in chew toys. Go out and buy about six long bones and six Kongs, and stuff all the dog’s food into them.

Here’s how I do it. You want the toys filled in such a manner that the instant the dog touches it, a bit of food falls out, and if she touches it again, a little more falls out, and so on. But always, no matter what she does, the tastiest bits remain stuck in there. So you get a bit of cheese or freeze dried liver and stick it into the little hole in the end of the Kong. Your dog will never be able to get that out! Then you smear a bit of honey or peanut butter on the inside of the Kong, and fill it with the dog’s normal kibble. This make the food tastier, and ensure that it won’t all tumble out at once.

Another way to do this is to measure out the dog’s kibble, add water, and mix it into a mush. Then you stuff the mush into some Kongs and then put them into the freezer for the night; you make Kongsicles! A Canadian breed like the Lab ought to appreciate that! They take about two hours to thaw and for the dog to get all her food. (If you think about it, this is how dogs eat in the wild. They do not get fed a big bowl of food at 5 p.m. every day. They have to work and gnaw on a carcass to get their meals.)

OK, so you are going to feed only in Kongs from now on, but you are going to do it in a way that teaches the dog to associate this treat with your absence. So this is your daily ritual: Let your dog watch you stuff the Kongs with food, but don’t give them to her. When you leave the house, put her in the long-term confinement area (going back to keeping her in your kitchen is an excellent idea) and give her all the food-stuffed toys.

Some dogs don’t like eating alone, but as long as you are not feeding Bailey any other way, I guarantee she’ll start looking forward to spending time getting her food out of the Kongs within a few days, a week at the most.

I help my dogs anticipate the event by making a big fuss about the preparation. I show them what I’m doing, and tell them what I’m doing as I stuff the Kongs. I say, “Oh, why don’t we put a bit of cheese in this one? And look, here’s some peanut butter mixed with freeze dried liver . . . Yum!” Then I put the toys on the floor of the kitchen and shut the door. “Sorry, not yet! I’m not ready to go yet!” People who use crates can put the Kongs in a crate and then lock the dog out of it. Then, when you’re ready to leave, open the door to the kitchen or crate; the dog will not miss you, believe me, in her rush to get to the toys.

You may or may not have noticed that I said this should be your daily routine. This procedure works great for people who go to work every day and leave the dog home alone all day. But the schedule you described (your husband works nights and you work days) doesn’t always leave room for the dog to be alone with the toys. So you need to make time for the dog to be alone, even when someone is home.

On one hand, it’s great that some people have households where the dog can usually be close to someone. Dogs are social animals, and they love company. But this kind of routine can actually create an owner-absent problem; it makes the dog over-dependent on having human company.

It is a sad fact of modern-day life, but most dogs can’t be with us all the time. So, rather than letting her stress out and fall apart every time she is left all alone, you need to train her to expect and enjoy being left alone on a daily basis. This way, she will be prepared for the experience; it’s no big deal. And the food-filled toys will ensure she will begin to look forward to her time alone.

So, rather than having the dog in the room you are in every minute, create some “down time” for her. When you are at home, and you have some time, say, when your favorite TV show comes on, put her in the kitchen with her evening meal all packed into the Kong toys. You can go watch Ally McBeal upstairs, but leave the dog in the kitchen.

I actually regard this as the most important thing, the number one thing, to teach a puppy: to enjoy spending time alone at home. If you don’t do this, your dog will stress out and will fall apart every time she is left alone, at which point her obsessions and compulsions will become directed to dismantling the house – and the dog may end up getting thrown out of the household altogether.

Good luck with Bailey, and have some fun with this!

Long-Term Vitamin C?
I have a female German Shepherd who is just shy of two years old. After reading your article about vitamin C (“Oh Say, Can You ‘C’?”, WDJ September 1998), I started giving her vitamin C to treat an allergy-type skin condition (scratching, redness). I ran the idea past my veterinarian first and got his blessing. But while this has helped with the scratching and redness, and I have been able to discontinue her vet-prescribed allergy pills, I am a little concerned about the dosage that I am giving her.

I am using pure sodium ascorbate powder (WDJ’s #1 recommendation) and have increased her dosage up to 4000 mg. twice a day. This has been a gradual increase until we started seeing results. While I have seen no negatives from this dosage (the redness has decreased, scratching subsided, and it has had no effect on her stool, which is still solid and formed), the dosage seems high. I’m just looking for a little reassurance that I am not in any way harming my dog.

-Cheryl J. Elksnis
Baltimore, MD

We submitted this question to the pioneer of vitamin C therapy in canines, Dr. Wendell O. Belfield, of San Jose, California. In 1981, Dr. Belfield has published the most complete work on vitamin C therapy for dog owners, “How to Have a Healthier Dog,” which was revised and reissued in 1993). He also authored the chapter about orthomolecular therapy in the 1998 veterinary textbook, “Complementary and Alternative Veterinary Medicine.”

I’m not surprised that you saw positive results from supplementing your dog with vitamin C. You used the form of the vitamin that is most beneficial for dogs (sodium ascorbate) and correctly increased the dose, using the dog’s bowel tolerance as a guide. However, now that the dog’s skin has improved, I would suggest that you begin reducing the dosage.

The dosage you are using is not likely to cause harm, but no vitamin should be used at levels higher than a maintenance dose for long periods. Do what you have to do to resolve a health problem, and then reduce the dosage to a maintenance level.

For small dogs and cats, I suggest a maintenance dose of 750 mg of sodium ascorbate; for medium dogs (25 to 50 pounds), I would use 1500 mg; and for large dogs (50 to 100 pounds and up), I would use 3000 mg.

If your dog’s skin problems recur, you may wish to increase the dosage again. However, if this happens, I would suggest doing some detective work to identify and eliminate the source of the dog’s allergies.

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Is your dog suffering from separation anxiety or is it another form of distress.
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Is it Really Separation Anxiety?

Nancy Kerns 4
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
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