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5 Things To Do When You Find A Stray Dog

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What to do with a stray dog? Make every effort to find an owner.

I don’t know a single dog owner who hasn’t, at some point (or quite frequently), spent an inordinate amount of time trying to capture a stray or lost dog. I know I’ve caught more than my share in the small town, or its rural surroundings, where I’ve lived for the past five years. I’ve caught burr-covered, obviously lost hunting dogs; dogs whose injuries suggested they’d tumbled from the back of a truck; as well as some fluffy little lap-escapees who looked like they were just out for an adventure.

If the dog is wearing a collar and tags with current contact information for his owner, you’re in luck – and the rest of the information in this article isn’t relevant. But out of maybe 20 dogs I’ve scooped up in the past five years, exactly one was wearing a collar and current ID tag. It certainly seems like the people who keep collars and tags on their dogs at all times are also the ones who manage to keep them safely contained – but accidents can happen to any owner. Here’s what you should do with an unidentified dog.

1. Take him to your local shelter

Don’t panic; you don’t have to leave him there if you are concerned that your local shelter is unsafe, unclean, or poorly managed. But there are a few things you should do at the shelter (see # 2 and # 3).

If the dog has an owner who is actually trying to find the dog, the owner will most likely come to the shelter to look for the dog. Few people, except the most dedicated owners, think to read the ads in the classified section or on craigslist.

2. Ask the shelter staff to scan the dog

The dog may have an implanted microchip ID. If he does, the staff should be able to help you track down contact information for the dog’s owner.

This seems like a no-brainer, but it only recently occurred to me that my 14- or 15-year-old cat, who was a stray found by a friend and then given to me 12 long  years ago, was never scanned. I actually took her to my local shelter and had her scanned just the other day; I hate to think I could have returned someone’s beloved lost cat years and years ago. I don’t know why it never occurred to me to check before. (She had no chip, thank goodness.)

3. File a “found dog” report at the shelter

If he does not have a microchip, and you don’t want to leave him at the shelter, you should at least file a “found dog” report at the shelter. This protects you in case you end up deciding to keep the dog (or you give the dog to a friend); it shows that you made a reasonable effort to find the dog’s owner. If an owner shows up some time later and wants his dog back, you’ll need to be able to prove that this attempt was made in order to protect your rights to the dog.

Some shelters take a photo of the dog for their “found dog” reports and file these online; others simply keep a binder full of the reports, sans photos, on a counter at the shelter. Few people are aware that shelters keep these reports; most people just check the shelter kennels and/or website. It’s uncommon, but reunions have been facilitated through these reports.

4. Take a photo of the dog and make a “found dog” flier

Post it in as many places as you can in the area where you found the dog. Most dog owners look at posters for lost or found pets, and many of us are more familiar with our neighbors’ pets than their owners! This way, you are recruiting a small army of people who might be able to help reunite the dog and his owner.

5. Be cautious if you take the dog home

If you bring the dog home, take immediate steps to protect your pets.  Check to see if the dog is infested with fleas; if he is, you’ll want to use some sort of potent flea control product immediately, before the fleas can populate your car or home. If your dogs are not fully vaccinated, or are immune-suppressed, you may want to keep the stray dog as far from your dog as possible for at least a few days, so you can make sure he’s not sick with anything transmissible. Wash your hands well after handling the stray, and clean up his waste immediately.

You also need to protect all of your family members from being attacked by the stray, until you’re certain that no attack is forthcoming. When your own dog is great with kids, cats, and your parakeet, it’s easy to forget that other dogs may be highly predatory.

Don’t take anything for granted; be careful at feeding time, and the first time he finds a nice chew bone or toy that he likes, because he may have resource-guarding issues. Keep the dog on-leash, or control his access to certain parts of the house with baby gates until you have a chance to see what he’s like.

Grappling with Salmonella

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There have been numerous headlines recently regarding Salmonella in various types of pet food. Merrick Pet Care recalled one lot of its Doggie Wishbones — chews made of dried beef tendons. Two raw food producers – Bravo and Primal – had products recalled for Salmonella.  Then there were the pig ear incidents:  Bravo, Boss Pet, Blackman Industries, Keys Manufacturing, and Jones Natural Chews all announced recalls of dried pig ear chews due to Salmonella contamination. (I suspect strongly that after one company’s pig ears tested positive for Salmonella, the FDA started testing every pig ear chew they came across – and most are contaminated. Random tests for salmonella of dried meat chews are very likely to produce positive results – unless the products have been irradiated or treated in some other way to kill all bacteria.)

A tad more surprising were the recalls by Nestle Purina Petcare in June and July, for three different dry foods for adult cats. The mainstream pet food industry has tried for years to discredit raw diets by pointing out that raw foods frequently return positive tests for Salmonella – the “glass houses” analogy seems apt here. The industry has long promoted the myth that the high temperatures used to cook dry foods kill Salmonella and other pathogens, but since dry foods were rarely tested for the pathogen, it was rarely found. The more that dry foods are tested for Salmonella, the more it will be found. And it would appear that the FDA has been increasing its surveillance of the pathogen in pet food at the manufacturing level.

I doubt seriously that Salmonella is suddenly taking over the pet food industry – or even that it only recently invaded the human food supply. I think it’s been in the human food supply for decades – and of course, anything that’s in the human food supply will be present in greater amounts in pet food ingredients. The pet food industry receives most of its ingredients from the lower-quality castes of the human food supply. Anywhere the investigators look and test animal protein products in the mainstream commercial food industry, they will find Salmonella

Salmonella can be quite problematic for humans, but most dogs can ingest it without suffering any symptoms whatsoever. Theoretically, dogs with compromised immune systems are most at risk, but the fact is, Salmonellosis is rarely reported in dogs. The greater public health risk is for humans who may get sick from handling contaminated pet food.But how much of a risk is this, really? 

Interestingly, the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) just announced a “request for applications” from investigators who would like a grant to “evaluate potential risk of Salmonella-contaminated feeds on human and animal health by testing diagnostic samples from pets.” It would appear that now that they know it’s everywhere, they want to know what the scale of the risk actually is . . .

From the FDA CVM website:

(http://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/NewsEvents/CVMUpdates/ucm266645.htm#.TkUyh-_KrlU.email)

In recent years, there have been an increasing number of human Salmonella outbreaks attributed to pet treats and pet foods. Salmonella infections can cause gastrointestinal disease in humans and animals. The occurrence of Salmonellosis in dogs and cats has not been adequately characterized. CVM is seeking applications that will provide information on the prevalence of Salmonella in fecal samples from both symptomatic and asymptomatic dogs and cats brought to veterinary clinics in order to gain further insight into the frequency of Salmonella infected companion animals. Bacteria will be isolated, identified and serotyped by the participating laboratories and the isolates will be submitted to FDA. Further DNA analysis will help CVM determine if the Salmonella strains isolated from pets are genetically similar to the strains previously isolated from humans or animal feeds. The data from this study will help CVM prioritize our investigations of foodborne diseases which adversely affect both animal and human health. The data will also help us rank future surveillance efforts.

A Bad Year for Fleas?

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Is it just us, or is this the worst year for fleas in a long a time? Or should we say, “best” year for the fleas, and worst year for cats and dogs?

Just about everyone we know is suddenly battling flea infestations, and several dogs we know have been tortured by enough bites that they’ve chewed or scratched themselves raw, instigating some awful secondary infections or “hot spots.” And this is in an area not usually plagued by that many fleas.

We’ve been quizzing our friends about what they use for protection from fleas, and the answers have included every spot-on topical we’ve ever heard of, and some low-budget knock-offs we haven’t. Almost everyone who has complained of a flea problem has mentioned that sometime between week 2 and week three after application, the fleas seem able to return to the dogs (and cats) with impunity.

We’re fighting the battle, too. We’ve been attempting to introduce our two new kittens to our old cat slowly. Shadow is 14 or 15 years old, and has never had to live with another cat; she’s not taking it that well. The kittens are the last two of the litter of former fosters, who are now part of the family. We’ve been keeping them at our office building, but want to move them home with us full-time. To keep from sending the old cat off the deep end, we’ve been bringing them home in a carrier for short visits – and I think we’ve been unwittingly transmitting fleas around the neighborhood this way, too! We’ve used a monthly spot-on product on Otto for the past three months, and other products for cats on all the rest of the gang – plus we vacuum constantly, but we’re still seeing fleas.

In our youth, it was common to see dogs whose teeth were worn down from near-constant chewing – self-mutilation due to severe flea bites and flea allergies. As adults, we’ve been lulled into a false sense of security that the flea problem has been solved by modern chemistry. Intellectually, we know better; no insect can be controlled forever by a handful of chemicals alone. It takes a true, multi-faceted integrated pest management program, including indoor and outdoor treatments, as well as constant cleaning and vigilance, to control fleas – especially if you have cats (feral or not) who come and go, wildlife vectors (rats, raccoons, skunks, foxes, etc.) in close proximity, or lots of visiting dogs.

We have to ask again: Is it just here in Northern California where the flea population seems to have exploded this year?

(Homemade Cooked Diets for Dogs #3) Homemade Cooked Diets for Dogs

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Most dogs have little problem switching to a home-cooked diet. If your dog is prone to digestive problems, you may want to make the change gradually. Add just one new ingredient at a time and wait a few days to see how your dog does before adding something else new, gradually increasing the amount of new food and decreasing the amount of the old.

If you add a lot of new ingredients at one time and your dog develops problems, it’s harder to tell what the cause might be. If your dog vomits or has diarrhea, return to his prior diet and make the change more carefully once his digestive system is back to normal. That may include feeding the new food separately from the old (at least a few hours in between meals), and feeding only one new food at a time, to see if your dog reacts to any of the new ingredients.

For more information on Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs, purchase any of Whole Dog Journal’s ebooks on the subject:

Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs, Part Three: Cooked Diets.

(Proper Greetings #1) Help Your Dog Learn Proper Greetings

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There’s a common misconception that dogs jump on people to establish dominance. Balderdash! Dogs jump on people because there’s something about jumping that is reinforcing for the dog – usually the human attention that results from the jumping. If you want your dog to stop jumping on people, you have to be sure he doesn’t get reinforced for it. Here’s a tip to help your dog learn proper greetings:

Train. It’s important to practice polite greetings in the absence of the exciting stimulus of guests and strangers by reinforcing your dog’s appropriate greeting with you and other family members. Be sure to take advantage of the presence of guests and strangers to reinforce your dog’s polite greeting behaviors while you’re managing with leashes and tethers.

For more training tips and advice on how to keep your dog from jumping up on people, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Proper Greeting: Stop Your Dog from Barking and Jumping when the Doorbell Rings.

(Managing Your Dog’s Weight #3) – Is Your Dog Overweight?

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Whatever the definition and true statistics are for overweight and obese dogs, obesity is the most common nutritional disorder in dogs, and many practitioners feel it is today’s number one health danger for dogs. According to existing statistical evidence, the increased incidence of obesity (in both dogs and humans) has dramatically risen only over the past 10 years or so.

Dogs tend to put on fat over their shoulders, ribs, and hips and around the tail head. You should be able to feel individual ribs and the space between each rib, and the shoulder blades, hips, and tail head should be readily palpable.

Since folks tend not to notice just how fat they or their animals are, it’s probably a good idea to get an unbiased opinion – check with your vet, and ask for an honest fat appraisal. One caveat here: It may be best to have a thin and fit vet do the evaluating; out-of-shape vets might also tend to overlook fatness in their patients, and they will almost certainly minimize the importance of exercise for overall health.

For more details and advice on ways to manage your dog’s weight, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Weight & Fitness Handbook.

Shelter Puppies: Too Cute for Their Own Good?

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The stars backstage at my local shelter are the six Basset puppies (and their doting mama) that the staff saved from coccidiosis (an illness caused by a nasty single-celled parasite). A guy brought the two-week-old litter to the shelter, signing over the whole lot, saying “they were just pooping too much.” Well, they were pooping so much because they had diarrhea; one puppy died within minutes of arrival. But our brilliant vet tech whipped into action and saved those dang puppies – mama, poop, and all. And they have just gotten cuter and cuter and cuter.

They’ve been the delight of the staff, but now that they have finally tested clear of the parasites and have put on weight, they are nearly ready to go up for adoption. We volunteers and staff are all asking our friends who might want a Basset hound; we try not to actually say the word “puppy” – at least at first. Because we know from experience: even people who don’t really want a dog, or who aren’t really in a good place to have a dog, are going to want one of these pups on sight. They are just TOO CUTE.

We know that babies are cute, in part, to help their parents remember to like them, especially when said parents are exhausted and at the ends of their ropes. But the “cute factor” works against puppies in a shelter; all sorts of folks bring them home – only to return them to the shelter eight or so months later, when the cute has worn off and left a pile of chewed shoes behind.

I think I’m biased, but in my experience, when someone adopts an ill-mannered, gawky teenaged dog; or a dowdy middle-aged dog; or a bleary senior with bad breath, I tend to feel more confident about the placement. Those adopters can’t help but see the flaws, and are still ready to take the dogs into their hearts and homes. But people who are fixated on puppies make me nervous.

See Whole Dog Journal’s Facebook Page (http://www.facebook.com/wholedogjournal) for video of the puppies referenced in this blog.

(Socializing Your Puppy or Dog #3) Socializing Your Puppy or Dog: Making a Lifelong Difference

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You’d better get out there and get started!  There’s no such thing as overkill when it comes to properly done socialization. You can’t do too much. Pups who are super-socialized tend to assume that new things they meet later in life are safe and good until proven otherwise.

Dogs who are very well-socialized as pups are least likely to develop aggressive behaviors in their lifetimes. Pups who aren’t well-socialized tend to be suspicious and fearful of new things they meet throughout their lives, and are most likely to eventually bite someone.

If your pup comes to you from a socially impoverished environment, you’ll already see the signs of neophobia. You have no time to lose, and you may never be able to make up all the ground he’s lost, but you can make him better than he’d be otherwise.

 

  • It’s useful to see your pup’s parents – at least the mother, if at all possible. If Mom is timid or aggressive there’s a good chance her pups will be, too. The pups’ behavior still can’t be attributed solely to genes; pups can learn fearful or aggressive behavior by watching their mother’s response to humans and other environmental stimuli, a behavioral phenomenon known as social facilitation. If you’ve been paying attention you’ll remember that genes and environment both play a role in behavior – always.

For more details and advice on ways to socialize your puppy or dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Socializing Your Puppy or Dog: Making a Lifelong Difference.

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New Lyme Disease Test for Dogs

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Researchers at Cornell University’s Animal Health Diagnostic Center have developed a new test for Lyme disease in dogs. Available as of June 15, the Lyme multiplex assay is capable of distinguishing between infection and vaccination when vaccination history is available, and between early and chronic disease stages, from a single blood sample.

Lyme Disease Testing

Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacteria that cause Lyme disease, migrate by way of the tissues to the joints, nervous system, and organs, causing fever, pain, lameness, and sometimes kidney failure (Lyme nephropathy). By the time these clinical signs show up, the infection may have been present 6 to 8 weeks or longer. Bacteria spirochetes can persist in the body for at least a year after clinical signs are gone, while high antibodies persist for at least 17 months. All of these factors make it difficult to distinguish between dogs whose clinical signs are caused by Lyme disease, and those who may been exposed in the past but have recovered from the disease.

Older tests for Lyme disease include whole cell enzyme-linked immunoassay (ELISA), indirect fluorescent antibody (IFA), Western blot, and C6 (SNAP® and ELISA). Whole cell ELISA and IFA tests cannot distinguish between antibodies induced from infection versus vaccination, while Western blot and C6 SNAP tests do not provide quantitative results. For this reason, two separate tests (ELISA plus Western blot) were required from Cornell’s lab for diagnosis and treatment.

The new Lyme disease canine multiplex assay combines the advantages of ELISA and Western blot in a single test. In addition, by identifying three different antibodies, it is the only test that has the capability of distinguishing between early versus chronic infections. Different antibodies point toward dogs who have been vaccinated for Lyme disease, those with early infections (up to 3 to 5 months), and those with chronic infections. The test can detect disease as early as 2 to 3 weeks after exposure, compared to 4 to 6 weeks for ELISA tests and 3 to 5 weeks for C6 tests.

Cornell says that its multiplex assay has increased sensitivity and specificity compared to other tests (resulting in fewer false negative and false positive results), and provides advanced information beyond any of the current Lyme testing methods, resulting in a better definition of the dog’s infection status. The fee for the test is $36, though the cost to you will include additional fees to your vet for drawing blood and shipping.

The Lyme Quant® C6 quantitative antibody test offered by IDEXX can also distinguish between infection and vaccination and provide quantitative results from a single sample. It might have even greater specificity (fewer false positives) than the new multiplex test, which could cross-react with at least one vaccine. Vaccination information must be provided along with samples submitted for testing to Cornell’s lab, so they can take that information into account when analyzing test results. That can be problematic for rescue dogs whose vaccination history is unknown. No such cross-reaction occurs with IDEXX’s SNAP® 3Dx®, 4Dx®, or Quant C6 tests, as no currently available Lyme vaccine stimulates a C6 antibody response.

While the IDEXX Quant C6 test cannot differentiate between early versus chronic infections, it can better monitor response to treatment, by comparing pre- and post-treatment results. A unique property of the C6 antibody is that levels decline sharply after treatment. Other tests measure antibodies that can persist at high levels long after treatment, making it difficult to determine whether the spirochetes are still present.

Doxycycline is used to treat Lyme disease at a recommended dosage of 10 milligrams per kilogram of body weight twice a day for four to six weeks. A controversy exists regarding treatment of dogs who test positive for Lyme but who show no signs of disease. Early research indicated that all but about 5 to 10 percent of dogs were able to fight off infection on their own, with no signs of the disease. A more recent study of 62 Beagles infected with Lyme, however, found that 39 dogs (63 percent) showed symptoms of the disease, and almost all had synovitis (inflammation of the joint lining) at necropsy. Because of the potential for Lyme disease to cause kidney failure, and because not all disease signs are noticeable (subclinical infection), treatment in all cases is the safest option.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, Animal Health Diagnostic Center, (607) 253-3900; ahdc.vet.cornell.edu

“Mass Market” Pet Food Companies Taking Aim at the Holistic Segment

As we have noted previously, the “natural/holistic” segment of the pet food market is experiencing more robust growth than any other segment. So, more and more “mass market” pet food makers are experimenting with new products developed to compete in this niche – although, in our opinion, only some of the products can walk the walk; many lack true commitment to the concept. One of the best indications of the company’s dedication to quality is the ingredients panel.

Holistic Dog Foods

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Recently, we received a press release from Ainsworth Pet Nutrition of Meadville, Pennsylvania. The name is new, though the company is not. Ainsworth was organized from the core of Dad’s Pet Care, a family-owned business since 1933. Historically, Dad’s foods are what we would characterize as carb-heavy foods sold for bargain prices. But the management wants to change that. “We have made several acquisitions and investments to expand our capabilities and have added exciting new products to our portfolio,” says Sean Lang, CEO of Ainsworth and the great-, great-grandson of Dad’s founder. In the past few years, the company purchased Hampshire Pet Products (an organic certified facility for baked food and snacks), Targeted Pet Treats (maker of snacks and chews), Gaines of Canada (chews and dental bones), Arkat Animal Nutrition (pet food maker with its own manufacturing facilities), and Back to Basics. That last purchase was the one that pricked up our ears.

Back to Basics has had dry dog foods on our list of “approved” dry dog foods for many years. It was a small company with mostly regional sales. When we heard that a mass market company bought it and planned to reformulate its products, we feared the worst, but resolved to follow up to learn its fate.

Happily, it appears that Ainsworth plans to use Back to Basics as its foot in the door of the premium (a.k.a. natural/holistic) dog food market. The Back to Basics foods (there are only two varieties, one pork-based and one turkey-based) are now grain-free (and potato-free); each features fresh organ meat as its first ingredient. Ainsworth says the foods contain 74 percent animal -based ingredients (protein and fat). Both exceed Whole Dog Journals’s selection criteria for a top-quality dry dog food.

Ainsworth has assigned each of it products to one of three divisions. The Dad’s Pet Care division will make Dad’s products, Rachel Ray’s Nutrish, and other mass market foods. The Ainsworth Custom division will be devoted to co-manufacturing and development for other companies. And Ainsworth Specialty Brands will make Back to Basics – and some new premium foods currently in the research and development phase. We’re pleased to see companies like Ainsworth devote themselves to healthier foods; it’s “all good” for our dogs. – Nancy Kerns

For more information:

Back to Basics Pet Food
(800) 219-2558; backtobasicspetfood.com

Treating Your Dog’s Corns and Warts

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Corns and plantar warts may be common on human feet, but they’re rare in dogs – unless the dog is a Greyhound. This breed is prone to corns.

Corns and Plantar Warts
Chip the Greyhound had his corns “hulled” (surgically removed), but they grew right back.

Corns are keratin calluses on the front center paw pads, such as under the second toe bone, which lacks subcutaneous tissue or padding.

A common treatment for corns is their removal with a small curette or scalpel, followed by smoothing with a pumice stone and the application of salicylic acid pads or ointments. Roberta Mikkelsen of Pearl River, New York, hoped that hulling (surgical removal) would help her Greyhound, Chip, recover from his painful corns. “This is such a common problem in the breed,” she says, “that there is an online forum where people list the things that did or didn’t help. So far there isn’t a cure.” After Chip’s corn was removed, it grew back.

According to Dr. Bob Taylor of Animal Planet’s “Emergency Vets” program, an effective treatment is to cover the corn with a small piece of duct tape that does not cover healthy paw pad skin and replace it daily or every three to five days.

Canine warts cause a thickening of the skin and tend to occur on the back or underside of the paw. “Seed warts,” which contain black dots caused by broken blood vessels within the warts, are named for their resemblance to small black seeds. Warts are believed to be caused by the papillomavirus, but despite their viral connection, they are not contagious to dogs or humans.

Warts have so many anecdotal treatments that it’s impossible to list them here. Some are one-application wonders – a single drop of essential oil, a baking soda dressing, or an herbal salve makes a wart disappear for good. Other warts are so difficult to remove that they result in toe amputations.

Any wart or corn on a dog’s paw can be painful, resulting in lameness. Long walks on concrete and other hard surfaces worsen the severity of corns, so walking on softer surfaces as much as possible and wearing well-padded booties can make a positive difference. Thera-Paw boots and slippers were designed for dogs with corns or warts.

For information about other conditions that can affect your dog’s paws or nose, see “Identifying and Treating Skin Conditions Than Can Affect Your Dog.”

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