My husband and I recently went on vacation for a week. I hired an acquaintance to house-sit and take care of all the animals while we were gone. She had performed this task for us many times before, although not for about two years. But she and our dog Otto were familiar with each other, and she knew all the plants in our yard and garden that needed watering (the last time we went on vacation, we had hired someone else, and half of our azaleas died for lack of water while we were gone), so it seemed like a good idea. She is actually between jobs and staying with a friend right now, and told us that she’d appreciate having a place of her own to live in for the week. The one possible hitch in the plan was that she was bringing her young Pit-mix dog.
I wasn’t actually that worried about the dog. I had met him about a year and a half before, when he was a little puppy, and it seemed like she was socializing him well. Otto generally does well with young, playful dogs, and the dog lives with a cat, so I figured my cats would cope. However, I was surprised to see, when she showed up at our house – only about 10 minutes before we had to leave for the airport, instead of the hour I had asked for – that the dog was still intact. Ah, she had been meaning to get around to neutering him, just hadn’t found the time or money at the right time.
As I said, we had only about 10 minutes to gauge how well the dogs would get along – and go over all of our instructions – before we HAD to be on the road to the airport. The first indications were good. The young dog seemed friendly and playful, and bounced around with Otto, offering a few play bows. Tito the Chihuahua bristled and growled at the much-bigger dog – and the dog backed off. “Okay, fine, you’re no fun.” Otto himself seemed interested and playful, too – no bad vibes. The cats were up on a table on the back porch, and the dog gave them a few glances, but didn’t have a “cat killer” kind of intense response at all. I had to cross my fingers and get in the car.
Several times while we were gone, I texted the house sitter and asked about everyone. She posted a few pictures of a happy Otto to her Facebook page and said everyone was “fine.”
When we got home after midnight a week later, Otto and Tito were overjoyed to see us. They looked fine, and the whole garden, azaleas included, looked great. The chickens were fine. But there was no sign of my cats. And no sign that the cats had eaten ANY of the food I left. Oh crud.
I woke up super early the next morning (still on east coast time) and went outside and called for my kitties. One appeared rapidly, meowing up a storm and startling at every little noise. She was much thinner than when we left (admittedly, she was a little overweight previously). The other cat took a few more hours to venture back into my yard. He, too, was noticeably spooky and thinner. So, the guest dog obviously spent the week chasing the cats out of their own yard. I was hoping that was all the bad news.
Then I got a report from one of my next-door neighbors. “Otto was so sad while you were gone!” she told me over our fence. “He barked and barked and barked all night! I kept going outside to tell him everything was ok, but he just kept barking!” Otto doesn’t really like her, so this wasn’t a tactic that was bound to work; he barks at her once or twice every night in the wee hours, when she goes out in to smoke cigarettes on her patio, adjacent to the deck where Otto sleeps. Then she added that another neighbor (who also smokes outside late at night!) had asked her if she knew why Otto was barking; Otto was keeping him up all night. I asked, “Didn’t our house-sitter come out to talk to him or bring him inside?” and she said, “Well, I don’t want to tattle, but she wasn’t there every night.” Grrr.
I received the final bad news from my next door neighbor on the other side of our house a few days later. Apologizing in advance, I asked her if she had heard much barking. She said she hadn’t noticed it much (she’s on the far side of the house where Otto sleeps). But she mentioned that she saw that the guest dog was chasing my cats out of my yard into her yard, so she fed them whenever she saw them. (THANK you!) And then she added that one day, with the house-sitter absent, she heard a commotion and went into her back yard to see what was going on; she saw the guest dog and Otto in a fight that lasted over a minute – and that Otto was definitely the loser. “I felt so bad; he ran off yelping. I couldn’t do anything with the gates locked,” she said. Well, she could have CALLED ME; she has my cell phone number! Poor Otto! I thanked her for looking out for the cats, and apologized for the barking again.
I can’t tell you how bad I felt for Otto (and my cats, and the neighbors). Unwittingly, I made a number of errors in trying to do the right thing for my animals while I was on vacation. Using a house-sitter has always seemed like the best thing to do for a whole house full of pets. However, next time, I would definitely say that no other dogs were welcome. Period. (Even though another time I used another house-sitter – a couple, actually — and they brought their dog, and it worked out fine… But no more. And I guess if I ever hire a house-sitter again, I would make it crystal clear that I expected the sitter to actually stay there all night, each night. And I would explicitly ask all of my neighbors to call me if they observed anything awry while I was gone!
Have you ever had similar issues with a house sitter, whether as a paid service or a friend or relative? What lessons did you learn that could prevent future problems?
My son was visiting recently and we took the dogs for a walk: Our mixed-breed, Otto; Tito the Chihuahua, a relative’s dog who came to live with us “temporarily” a year ago; and Tule, an obese Labrador I was fostering for a few weeks on behalf of my local shelter. It was the evening of a hot day, and we walked to a nice spot along the river that flows through my town.
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Otto likes to wade, just up to his elbows. He’ll also swim a bit when he gets particularly exuberant, but it’s uncommon. Tule also likes to wade deeply, and to plunge her muzzle under the water and blow bubbles. I hadn’t seen her swim, though, in a half a dozen trips to the river. Tito, who has been to the river scores and scores of times, has never gone into the water more deeply than his tiny Chihuahua ankles, although he’ll sometimes wade into a land-locked puddle a tad deeper than that.
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My son is 20 years old, but still a boy in that the first thing he did when we reached the water’s edge – at least 15 seconds after the two big dogs had begun wading – was pick up a rock and throw it into the river. To our utter shock, Tito the Chihuahua unhesitatingly leaped into the river and began strongly swimming out into the current, clearly looking for the rock!! We gaped at him, and then at each other, and then back at the circling Chihuahua, who was losing a bit of ground to the current.
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I said to my son, “If he goes downstream, you’re going in after him!” But my son was already putting a different plan into action. He quickly cast about for a stick, broke it in half, and then, calling “Tito! Tito!” he threw the stick into the river, about halfway between Tito and the shore. The tiny dog immediately swam for the stick, grabbed it, and swam strongly ashore. Then, like a miniature Labrador Retriever, he dropped the stick at Eli’s feet, and stepped back with an eager expression that clearly said, “Throw it again!”
I was still agape. But my son laughed out loud, picked up the stick, and threw it into the water again. Without a moment’s hesitation, Tito leaped into the river again, and again. By this time, I recovered from my surprise enough to take some pictures. Neither Otto nor Tule looked the slightest bit interested in fetching.
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At home, Tito likes playing with a ball, and he chases any ball you throw. But he rarely brings it back; he’ll pick it up and then go play with the ball on his own. I’ve never seen him pick up a stick before. And yet, there he was, shivering with cold, and begging my son to “Throw it again! Throw it again!” Of course, we stopped the fetching game after 8 or 9 short fetches and left the river’s edge to allow the little guy to warm up again on the walk back. I have to say, he looked a little taller – and our admiration for the tough little guy grew even larger.
Did your dog ever shock you with a previously hidden talent?
Most holistic veterinary practitioners recommend switching any itchy dog to a complete and balanced home-prepared diet containing “real foods.” This will decrease the dog’s exposure to unnecessary or complex chemicals and give his body the opportunity to utilize the higher-quality nutrients present in fresh foods. Whether the diet is cooked or raw, the increased nutrient quality and availability of fresh whole foods will improve the health of any dog who currently receives even the best dry or canned foods.
“Feeding fresh, unprocessed, organic foods provides more of the building blocks for a healthy immune system,” says Dr. Lisa Pesch, a holistic veterinarian in Sebastopol CA. “Dogs who have allergies are more likely to be deficient in trace proteins and sugars (proteoglycans) that are used by the immune systems. Deficiencies in these nutrients will increase allergic response.”
For more information on diagnosing and treating allergies in your dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Canine Allergies.
Whole Dog Journal is against the use of shock collars under any circumstances. As our mission statement asserts, “The methods we discuss will endeavor to do no harm to dogs; we do not advocate perpetrating even minor transgressions in the name of ‘greater good.’
Shock collars were initially used primarily for the administration of harsh “positive punishment” and/or “negative reinforcement” . If your dog didn’t come promptly when you called, you’d hit the button and keep the button pressed, delivering a constant and unpleasant stimulus until the dog came and sat in front of you; then you stopped pressing the button. This is “negative reinforcement”; the dog’s behavior of coming to you makes a bad thing (shock) go away, and the behavior of coming when called increases. “Dog-friendly” trainers primarily use positive reinforcement and secondarily negative punishment, and only rarely and/or as a last resort use positive punishment or negative reinforcement. That would seem to rule out the use of shock collars.
For more information on Whole Dog Journal’s thoughts on electronic training equipment and details and advice on how to select the best collar and leash for you and your dog, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Guide to Collars & Leashes.
A conventional treatment for the discomfort of joint pain in dogs is the administration of pain-relieving non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), including aspirin, as well as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and EtoGesic. These pharmaceuticals temporarily relieve pain but may also produce significant, unwanted side effects ranging from gastric upset and bleeding to liver damage and seizures. All of the NSAIDs have been plagued by reports of serious health problems resulting from their use. But they continue to find a following among veterinarians and dog owners who value their potent and fast-acting pain relief.
Unfortunately, many people do not understand that pain relief drugs may mask escalating joint problems. These products do nothing to heal or stabilize the joint’s destruction; as soon as the drugs are discontinued, the dog again experiences all of the discomfort associated with joint deterioration.
For more information on your dog’s joints, ways to improve their health and prolong an active lifestyle, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Remedies for Canine Arthritis.
Clinical signs of Cushing’s, no matter its primary cause, may include one or most of the following:
• Polyuria (increased frequency of urination), polydipsia (increased thirst), and polyphagia (increased, ravenous hunger).
• Weakening and atrophy of the muscles of the extremities and abdomen, resulting in gradual abdominal enlargement, lordosis (sway back), muscle trembling, and weakness.
• Weight loss. While most dogs appear fat, they may actually lose weight due to the loss of muscle mass.
• Fat deposits in the liver, resulting in diminished liver function.
• Skin lesions are common and are often the most recognizable symptoms of the disease. The skin may thin, or mineral deposits may occur within the skin, especially along the dorsal midline. The dog may also exhibit hair loss in a non-itchy “hormonal pattern” (bilateral and symmetrical hair loss, not patchy as typically seen with allergies, and often associated with thinning of hair and poor regrowth, rather than a complete loss of hair). This hair loss may be concentrated over the body, groin, and flanks, and spare the head and extremities. In chronic hormonal conditions the hair thinning may be associated with a thickening and a black discoloration of the abdominal skin called acanthosis.
• Behavior changes: lethargy, sleep-wake cycle disturbances, panting, and decreased interaction with owners.
A tentative diagnosis may be inferred from the clinical signs, but positive diagnosis requires laboratory confirmation. Differentiating pituitary-dependent from primary-adrenal Cushing’s is impossible without lab tests.
For more detailed information on the diagnosis and treatment of Cushing’s Disease, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Cushing’s Disease.
It is not easy to figure out how much fat and other nutrients are really in the food you feed, whether it’s kibble, canned food, or a home-prepared raw or cooked diet. Here are some tips that can help.
Methods of Nutrition Measurement
There are three different ways of measuring amounts of protein, fat, carbohydrates, and fiber in foods:
1. Percentage of dry matter
2. Percentage of calories (does not apply to fiber)
3. Grams per 1,000 calories
Dry matter percentages are easiest to use for commercial foods. Grams per 1,000 calories or percentage of calories are simpler ways to measure nutrients in a homemade diet.
When Feeding Your Dog Commercial Foods:
Pet food labels give you some, but not all, of the information you need in order to really know the nutritional composition of your dog’s diet.
-The percentages of protein, fat, and fiber shown on dog food labels are guaranteed minimums and maximums, NOT actual amounts. The real amount of fat in particular may be much higher than what is shown on the label of some canned and raw diets. If your dog needs a low-fat diet, look for products that are lower in calories than similar foods.
For more accurate information, contact the company that makes the food you’re interested in and ask them for a nutritional analysis showing the actual amount of protein, fat, fiber, ash, and moisture, as well as the number of calories in the food. Editor’s note: Some pet food makers (particularly small companies) may not have a complete nutritional analysis of their products. In our opinion, this reflects a lack of adequate research and investment in the product. When feeding a special needs dog, we’d look to a company who has this current information on hand.
-The percentage of carbohydrates is not included on most labels or nutritional analyses. To calculate the percentage of carbohydrates in a commercial diet, subtract the percentages of protein, fat, moisture, crude fiber (an indigestible part of carbohydrates), and ash from 100. This percentage may be shown as “nitgrogen-free extract (NFE)” on a nutritional analysis.
-Total dietary fiber is likely much higher than the crude fiber shown on the label. If dietary (soluble plus insoluble) fiber is not shown on a complete nutritional analysis, there is no way to calculate it.
When Feeding Fresh Foods:
When feeding a home-prepared diet comprised of fresh food ingredients, it can be a bit more challenging to calculate some of the nutrient values that you’d like to know when feeding a diabetic dog.
-To calculate the caloric content of the food, look up the ingredients or enter a recipe on NutritionData.com. The number of calories from protein, fat, and carbohydrates, along with the total calories, are given in the “calorie information” section, and the calorie percentages are shown in the “caloric ratio pyramid.”
-To calculate the grams of protein, fat, etc., per 1,000 calories, divide grams of any nutrient by total number of calories, then multiply by 1,000 to get grams per 1,000 kcal. For example, raw skinless chicken breast contains 6.5 grams of protein, 0.3 grams of fat, and 30.8 calories per ounce:
6.5 ÷ 30.8 x 1,000 = 211 grams of protein per 1,000 kcal
0.3 ÷ 30.8 x 1,000 = 9.7 grams of fat per 1,000 kcal (GFK)
“As Fed” versus “Dry Matter”
The percentages of protein, fat, etc., shown on a pet food label are expressed “as fed” – meaning, as the food is delivered in its package. Some percentage of the food is comprised of moisture (water), which of course contains no protein, fat, fiber, or other nutrients. Kibble generally contains about 10 percent moisture; wet foods (canned, frozen, or fresh) contain as much as 80 percent or more moisture.
So, think about it: When a label says that a food contains (for example) 4 percent fat, in order to really understand how much fat you are about to feed your dog, you also have to know how much moisture is in the food. What you really want to know is how much fat (in this example) is in the food part of the food – the “dry matter.” Any serious discussion of nutrition, or comparison of dry and wet diets, then, requires the conversion of the nutrient values from “as fed” to “dry matter.” Don’t worry; it sounds technical, but it’s easy to do.
-To calculate dry matter (DM) percentages, first determine the amount of dry matter by subtracting the percentage of moisture from 100. Then divide the “as fed” percentage by the amount of dry matter to get the dry matter percentage. For example, if a canned food has 75 percent moisture and 4 percent fat:
All pets cared for by Hill’s Pet Nutrition live in a loving, safe, playful, and clean environment. We use only non-invasive, humane research methods. Hill’s does not participate in studies that jeopardize the health of dogs and cats. No study that requires euthanasia will be performed on dogs or cats.
When studying how a nutrient is absorbed, distributed, stored, used and released by a dog’s or cat’s body, we use only research methods that are the veterinary equivalent of human nutritional or medical studies. Hill’s does not support or conduct studies that cause pain or hurt the dogs or cats. This is based on the belief that what is painful to humans is also painful to dogs and cats.
We continually strive to find ways to reduce dependence on animal research. A substantial number of dogs and cats participating in our feeding studies are involved in in-home tests.
To assure pet owners that our therapeutic foods are safe and effective, we support studies using pets with naturally occurring diseases or conditions. We do not participate in studies in which surgical or non-surgical methods are used to create or simulate disease conditions.
The Hill’s Pet Nutrition Center and any external facility Hill’s supports must meet or exceed all industry regulatory standards for animal care.
We publish the results of our studies to advance the knowledge of nutritional health care and to help prevent the unnecessary repetition of studies involving dogs and cats. Hill’s only uses data from animal studies that are in the public domain, either previously published or were conducted under this Global Animal Welfare Policy.
We fully support the internationally accepted principles: replacement of animal studies with non-animal alternatives, reduction in the numbers of animals involved in studies, and the refinement of methods to enhance animal welfare. We involve animals only if there is no valid non-animal option.
We do not fund studies that require the loss of life of cats or dogs. We only conduct dog and cat studies that are the veterinary equivalent of nutritional or medical studies acceptable on people, including: urine, feces, blood and immune cell analysis, allergy tests, and skin and muscle biopsies.
Effective November 1, 2006, we conduct studies in just three kinds of locations: pet owners’ homes, our Pet Health & Nutrition Center, and locations where dogs and cats are already living (e.g., assistance dog organizations, kennels, etc.). We test our foods with healthy pet cats or dogs in their homes or with pets who already have specific diseases or conditions.
All of the dogs and cats in our feeding programs who are not already private pets remain in our program, are adopted into private homes or are placed in our retirement center.
We ensure the humane treatment of all species and provide for their well being, socialization and husbandry in a manner compatible with the company’s philosophy.
Our studies are monitored by our own staff and independent experts with the goal being to create enriched environments for the cats and dogs. If there is the potential for pain or distress, we do whatever we can to prevent or eliminate it.
We do not fund any activities outside our company that may be inconsistent with our Policy. We do not use, in any studies, cats or dogs who are already induced with disease or surgically altered through other research; nor does the company conduct such studies under the auspices of any industry association or group.
Pet food companies that are the size of Hill’s Pet Nutrition (a subsidiary of Colgate-Palmolive Company) and Iams and Eukanuba (both owned by Procter & Gamble Pet Care) can afford to conduct a variety of research and development studies, as well as conduct their own feeding trials to meet regulatory requirements for nutritional adequacy. The following are the types of studies that large pet food companies typically conduct.
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AAFCO Feeding Trial. The protocols for these tests were developed by the Association of American Feed Control Officials, an advisory (not regulatory) body comprised of state feed control officials (the voting members) as well as representatives from the pet food industry, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), and other interested groups and individuals. There are specific protocols for trials that confirm the nutritional adequacy of foods for adult maintenance, gestation/lactation, growth (puppy or kitten food), and “all life stages.” The trials range in duration from 10 weeks (growth) to 26 weeks (adult maintenance). A food intended for “all life stages” needs to pass the gestation/lactation trial (about 13 weeks) followed by the growth trial, back to back.
In all of these trials, a number of dogs are fed the test diet (and nothing but the test diet) and a certain percentage of them must finish the trial in a condition such that they pass some basic tests: not too much weight loss, no significant illness, adequate blood test results (hemoglobin, packed cell volume, serum albumin, and alkaline phosphatase, a liver enzyme). For more information about AAFCO feeding trials, see “On Trial,” WDJ April 2005.
Many people consider AAFCO feeding trials as the “gold standard” for confirming the nutritional adequacy of a canine or feline diet. However, because the products that met the “feeding trial” test of nutritional adequacy do not have to meet the “nutrient levels” criteria, there is the possibility that these products may contain excessive, deficient, or unbalanced nutrient levels that may contribute to the development of health problems if fed as a sole diet for periods that are in excess of the testing period. An ideal test would encompass both a feeding trial and meeting the AAFCO nutrient profiles, but no such standard currently exists.
AAFCO Metabolizable Energy Protocol (also known as “metabolic study”). In these tests, a dog (or cat) is maintained on a specific diet for a period of 10 days, and the amount of food the animal consumes is precisely recorded. During the final five days, every bit of urine and feces eliminated from the animal is collected, so the amount of energy lost through elimination can be calculated (subtracted from the gross energy consumed) and thus, the total energy in the diet that was utilized by the animal can be determined. It used to be routine that these studies required the test subject to be housed for the final five days in a cage with a slatted floor – uncomfortable for any animal. However, in recent years, alternatives have been developed to help researchers collect urine and feces from an individual in a comfortable environment. For example, with cats, Hill’s fills the cat’s litter box with tiny, unabsorbent plastic beads; urine and feces can be collected from this material with little loss.
Palatability or “taste preference” studies. Pet food makers know that owners repeatedly buy products that their pets prefer and eat quickly and enthusiastically, so they use a tremendous amount of their resources on these studies – more so for cat food than dog food (cats are notoriously finicky about food flavor, odor, and even the “mouth feel” of kibble). The animals used in these tests are given special training to teach them how to assess their options and make a “real” choice – not just fill up on the food they happened to select first, or always eat from the left-hand bowl. Animals that appear to reliably consider their options and make clear, consistent choices are prized, and may be delegated to a lifelong career in these studies.
Digestibility studies. How well a food is digested, and the resulting quality of a dog’s stool, are of utmost importance to most dog owners – and, of course, to the health and comfort of the dog. Pet food makers are always tweaking their formulations, based on ingredient availability, price, and popularity; they use these studies to ensure the resulting innovations are digestible.
Bioassay studies. These studies are conducted in search of diets that target and improve the function or health of a given body system or ability. Bioassays could include mobility, skin and coat, immunology, GI health, or nutritional requirements based on life-stage or lifestyle. Diets that address certain health conditions, whether “prescription” or over-the-counter, have become increasingly popular with pet owners – and as a result, they are popular with the large pet food companies, too.
As discussed in “Canine Diabetes,” WDJ May 2012, dogs with this disease require blood sugar monitoring, daily insulin injections, carefully planned meals, and scheduled exercise. Fortunately, most cases can be managed at home, and once their medication and diet are stabilized, affected dogs live just as long and actively as other dogs. The most important factor in choosing a diet for a dog with diabetes is that he likes the food and eats it willingly every day.
We’ll say it again: There is no single “best” diet for dogs with diabetes. Most diabetic dogs do fine on a diet formulated for adult maintenance. And most do not require a high-fiber prescription diet. However, it is important to maintain consistent carbohydrate levels, and a diet moderately low in fat may be safest. The nutritional needs of any concurrent disease should take precedence.
Dogs with diabetes can thrive on diets that are dry or canned, prescription, frozen raw, home-prepared (cooked or raw), and combinations of any of these. See the samples below (starting with “Prescription Diets”) for a variety of diets that have worked well for diabetic dogs and their caregivers.
To help determine your diabetic dog’s best diet, consider the following guidelines. (See “Calculating a Diet’s Protein, Fat, Carbs, and Fiber,” to learn how to figure out how much of each macronutrient you’re feeding.)
Fat – Because undiagnosed pancreatitis is common in diabetes patients, many veterinarians recommend feeding diabetic dogs less than 30 percent of their calories from fat. This is equivalent to about 14 percent fat on a dry matter (DM) basis, or 35 grams of fat per 1,000 calories (GFK). These guidelines are appropriate for dogs with Cushing’s disease, or whose blood tends to be lipemic (fatty), or who are prone to digestive upset.
For some dogs with chronic pancreatitis or persistent fasting hyperlipidemia (high blood triglycerides or cholesterol), fat may need to be reduced to less than 20 percent of calories (about 9 percent fat DM, or 23 GFK).
Underweight dogs usually need more fat. Higher fat foods also reduce postprandial glycemia (rises in blood sugar after meals), probably because they slow gastric emptying. Diabetic dogs without concurrent illness requiring limited fat may be fed up to 20 percent fat DM (40 percent of calories from fat; 47 GFK).
Since dogs love the taste of fat, it’s often added to food to improve palatability, but for dogs with diabetes, flavoring agents like low-fat chicken or beef broth are better choices.
If your dog requires a low-fat diet, see “Healthy Low-Fat Diets,” WDJ December 2008, for more details.
Protein – It is important to feed enough highly digestible, high-quality protein – at least 18 to 25 percent on a dry matter basis – to reduce muscle catabolism (breakdown). Such diets do not appear to increase the risk of diabetic nephropathy (kidney disease). There are no negative effects associated with providing at least 30 to 45 percent of calories from protein (about 35 to 50 percent protein DM).
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Carbohydrates – Carbs are key ingredients in any diabetic dog’s diet. The amount of carbohydrate should remain consistent so that the dog’s insulin needs remain stable. Complex carbs, especially barley and sorghum, are recommended, while simple carbs such as white rice and corn syrup should be avoided.
Starch (the digestible portion of carbohydrates) is best limited to less than 50 percent of calories (about 55 percent DM), and diabetic dogs may do better when starch is less than 30 percent of calories (about 33 percent DM). If the amount of starch in the diet changes, the amount of insulin will need to be adjusted as well.
Fiber – There are two types of fiber, soluble and insoluble. Both types slow gastric emptying and carbohydrate digestion, reducing postprandial glucose spikes. Soluble fiber feeds the body’s beneficial bacteria and supports the immune system, but it can also cause gas and loose stools. Insoluble fiber (roughage) increases stool volume, regulates intestinal transit time, is generally well tolerated, and may help with glucose control.
Whole grains are decent sources of both soluble and insoluble fiber. Barley, bulgur wheat, long-grain brown rice, whole wheat pasta, rolled oats, quinoa, beans, and peas are good choices for providing starch and fiber. The flesh of vegetables and fruit also supply soluble fiber, while the skins are a good source of insoluble fiber. Sweet potatoes with skin offer a particularly high nutrition and fiber content without sending blood sugar soaring.
If you are feeding a maintenance (non-prescription) diet and having poor glycemic control, try feeding more insoluble or mixed fiber. Many dogs have improved glucose control with more fiber, while some do better with less. Too much fiber can lead to gas, diarrhea or constipation, weight loss, poor coat, and an unwillingness to eat. Recommendations vary, but generally 8 to 15 percent DM, or 25 to 35 grams of fiber per 1,000 calories, would be considered a moderate amount of fiber.
Note that dietary fiber is not the same as crude fiber shown on dog food labels, which is not a useful measure. Most foods contain a lot more fiber than the labels indicate. Unfortunately, there is usually no way to know how much dietary fiber non-prescription foods contain. You can only look for ingredients known to supply fiber.
–Bran, cellulose, pea fiber, tomato pomace, and hulls of any kind (including “soybean mill run”) supply mostly insoluble fiber.
–Fructo-olicosaccharides (FOS), guar gum, and pectin provide soluble fiber.
–Beet pulp has both types of fiber.
Fiber supplements can be used to add fiber if needed. Benefiber (wheat dextrin) and Hydrocil (psyllium) contain mostly soluble fiber, while Citrucel contains insoluble fiber (methylcellulose).
Customizing the Diet Preparing your dog’s food at home is the easiest way to feed a customized diet, but many owners obtain good results by mixing wet and dry foods or by combining fresh foods with commercially prepared diets.
For example, many low-fat commercial diets are also low in protein, with high levels of carbohydrates. Ingredients such as lean meat, skinless poultry, fish, eggs, and yogurt can be used to replace a portion of the commercial diet to increase protein and reduce carbohydrates in the overall diet. If you’re feeding a high-protein, low-carb, low-fiber commercial diet, adding high-fiber fresh foods or fiber supplements may help with glycemic control.
Dry food decreases hyperglycemia (high blood sugar) after eating because it takes longer to digest, while wet food may encourage the dog to eat well and increase fluid intake. Do not feed commercial moist or semi-moist foods or treats, as they almost always contain added sugars (e.g., propylene glycol).
In some patients, dry food takes too long to digest, so that its assimilation does not coincide with the insulin’s peak effect. In that case, presoaking the food or grinding it to a powder before feeding, or reducing the amount of fiber in the diet, will speed digestion.
If a too-thin dog fails to gain weight, you may need to feed more food, increase the amount of fat, or decrease the amount of fiber in the diet.
If the patient suddenly refuses food, see your veterinarian to check for a concurrent illness. Do not continue to give insulin to a dog who is not eating.
Textbook Recipes Two sample recipes provided in the Encyclopedia of Canine Clinical Nutrition (Pibot et al., 2006) each provide about 1,700 calories, the amount needed for a typical active 70-pound dog. Each 1,000-gram (2.2-pound) recipe uses:
500 to 600 grams of low-fat meat and dairy (fish, skinless turkey breast, creamed cottage cheese)
–250 to 270 grams (dry measure) of starchy carbs (whole wheat pasta, rolled oats)
–60 to 150 grams of cooked carrots
–50 to 60 grams of wheat bran (insoluble fiber)
–10 grams pectin (soluble fiber)
–10 to 15 grams canola oil
–plus a multivitamin and mineral supplement (including about 2,500 mg calcium)
These recipes are 33-34 percent protein, 10-11 percent fat, 38-41 percent starch, and 12-14 percent fiber on a dry matter basis.
Prescription Diets Commerical prescription diets meant for dogs with diabetes work for some dogs, with or without added foods. These diets are generally low in protein and fat, and high in fiber and carbohydrates. They are unsuitable for dogs who need to gain weight, but the high fiber can help some dogs whose diabetes is difficult to regulate. These diets can be combined with other foods to increase protein and fat.
Genny and Buster are two diabetic dogs who eat prescription diets.
Genny, a 10-year-old Bichon Frise, has lived with Cathy Briody in Jewett City, Connecticut, since Genny was given up for adoption at age 15 months because of diabetes. “She spent her first few days with me at Tufts Veterinary Hospital getting regulated,” says Briody. “Her vet recommended Hill’s Prescription Diet w/d canned food twice a day, 12 hours apart, followed by an insulin shot 30 minutes later. I did a glucose curve on her at home every two weeks, then faxed the results to her vet at Tufts, and he would call to let me know what changes to make in her amounts of food and insulin.”
Regulating Genny’s condition took two months, at the end of which Briody, a rescue volunteer, realized she couldn’t let the pup go to anyone else. Genny’s foster home became her permanent residence.
“She celebrated her tenth birthday last November,” says Briody. “She still eats w/d, only now she gets three meals a day because her glucose tends to get low in the afternoon, and she won’t eat breakfast unless Parmesan cheese is sprinkled on her food. Genny has had two hypoglycemic crashes. The first was in 2005, when she had a seizure. She got lots of Karo syrup and food before going to her regular vet and spending the rest of the weekend back at Tufts. Her second crash happened last August, and her recovery was a long process, but she has been fine since October.”
Genny is a Delta Society Pet Partners therapy dog who visits a hospital and two group homes every month, as well as a Reading Education Assistance Dog (R.E.A.D.) who is read to by first-graders once a week. “Although I would like to feed her a better food,” says Briody, “the w/d works fine for Genny, and she eats it willingly. She does not take any supplements and seems to be doing well.”
Buster, a 13-year-old, seven-pound Maltese (pictured taking agility jumps in last month’s article on diabetes), also eats a prescription diet, with some raw food added to it. Buster lives with Mary Butler in Northern California. “As soon as he was diagnosed three years ago,” says Butler, “I consulted a nutrition specialist at the University of California, Davis, veterinary school, who took a detailed history and calculated Buster’s nutritional needs. In addition to including my little guy’s favorite snack (Nature’s Variety Instinct raw beef medallions), he recommended a diet of high-fiber Hill’s Prescription Diet w/d.” Like most commercial raw diets, Instinct raw foods are high in protein and fat and low in carbs, a good complement to w/d’s low protein and fat and high carbs.
Butler feeds Buster the same thing every morning and evening. “He gets less than ¼ cup of dry w/d chicken plus half of a beef medallion,” she says. “The vet told me the most important thing is to be consistent with his diet, and I have been. Buster has been stable ever since his diagnosis. He gets insulin twice a day, and the dose has remained the same as the day he was diagnosed. It has never had to be adjusted.”
Buster loves his meals and always eats every bite, says Butler. “He hops and spins when I say, ‘Supper!’ I will not change a thing I’m doing as he is so stable and healthy.”
Non-Prescription Dry and Canned Foods Diabetic dogs don’t require a prescription diet. Adult maintenance diets with moderate amounts of fiber work well for most dogs with diabetes. Penny and Silkie are great examples of dogs who thrive on high-quality commercial diets.
Penny, a 35-pound, 6-year-old Brittany belonging to Melba and Curtiss Lanham of Fulshear, Texas, is a diabetes success story. “We took Penny in as a foster when she was six months old,” says Melba. “She was the most full-of-energy Brittany we had ever fostered and was also the smartest little girl. It wasn’t long before she was a permanent member of our family.”
But at nine months, Penny’s personality changed. “She did not like to be around the other dogs and kept them away from her. Normally a very playful puppy, she would often hide under a desk or wrap herself tightly in a little ball. Her trips outside to void urine increased but with no noticeable increase in water intake. Off to our favorite veterinarian she went.”
Penny was diagnosed with a urinary tract infection, but antibiotics didn’t change her behavior or symptoms. Back she went for more tests, only this time Penny wasn’t allowed to leave until her very high blood sugar stabilized. She had diabetes.
“Curtiss and I were both licensed Texas paramedics,” says Melba, “so drawing blood, using a glucometer, giving injections, and even understanding the disease were the easy parts of the journey. Managing Penny’s diet became the biggest challenge.”
After experimenting with different diets, the Lanhams found that Penny had most consistent results with Nature’s Logic Chicken dry kibble, which has 38 percent protein and 18 percent fat DM according to the analysis posted on the company’s website. “We have over four years of blood draws and glucometer readings for Penny to show the consistency this food has provided. We add 1 tablespoon of canned Nature’s Variety Instinct Venison to her moistened kibble each feeding.” Instinct grain-free canned foods are 95 percent meat and liver, high in protein and fat, and very low in carbs.
Penny’s insulin dose may need adjusting if her meals are served later than usual or if she hasn’t gotten her normal exercise because of inclement weather. “Heaven forbid if we have company and it’s someone who doesn’t understand that Penny is not allowed snacks, as she is just too darned cute not to feed!” says Melba. “But because we monitor so closely and know all of her pre-crisis signs, we are able to avoid the most drastic swings in her blood sugar level.
“This little juvenile diabetic is now almost six years old. She is a very fit Brittany, still full of energy and extremely active. She is bright-eyed, plays hard with our other three dogs, runs the ¼ acre we have fenced in the back, and watches squirrels with a passion. She is still the smartest Brittany we have ever had.”
Silkie, a 14-year-old, 18-pound Silky Terrier belonging to Meri Binette of Delray Beach, Florida, has lived with diabetes since November 2010. He was also diagnosed with hypothyroidism. Cataract surgery with lens implants followed in April 2011 and, because of demodectic mange, he had to be treated with high doses of ivermectin.
“Silkie also has on-and-off colitis,” says Binette, “so we consulted with a holistic nutritionist for animals. We try to keep Silkie’s protein levels high, with carbs lower, and keep treats to a minimum. We give him fish oil and digestive enzymes. We do home blood glucose tests because his insulin dose requirement always changes.” Silkie was switched from Humulin to long-acting Levemir because he has been difficult to regulate.
Silkie eats Natural Balance “limited ingredient” venison, bison, or fish (canned and dry), plus Stella and Chewy’s freeze-dried duck or lean ground beef or turkey as a treat. Natural Balance limited-ingredient diets are formulated for dogs with food allergies. They are mostly grain-free, low in fat, with limited protein, and high carbs. As with most commercial foods, the canned versions have more protein and fat than the dry. Stella & Chewy’s frozen and freeze-dried foods are high in protein, high in fat, and low in carbs.
All of Silkie’s foods are low in fiber, so Binette recently began adding 2 tablespoons of Hill’s r/d high-fiber canned food. “It makes his poops more solid, and more frequent, so less gas,” says Binette, “His glucose levels have also been more stable. At age 14, we just want his quality of life to be good. So far, it is. We take it day by day.”
Combining Homemade and Commercial Diets Commercial diets can be improved with the addition of raw or cooked foods, while feeding part kibble or canned in addition to home-prepared can make preparation easier. Scout, Henry, Buddy, and Kodi each receive a customized diet containing all kinds of foods – a diet that was found by trial and error to work well for each individual.
Scout, an eight-year-old Bichon/Shih Tzu mix, who lives with Diane Di Salvo of Madison, Wisconsin, was diagnosed with diabetes two years ago.
“That’s when I joined the Yahoo ‘DiabetesPet’ group (groups.yahoo.com/group/diabetespet),” says Di Salvo. “The great people there have a wealth of knowledge gained over many years of trial and error. The basic recommendation for homemade food is 1/3 protein (lean chicken breasts, lean ground beef, lean turkey), 1/3 veggies (green beans, cauliflower, summer squash), and 1/3 complex carbohydrates (brown rice, barley, quinoa, oatmeal). In addition, a multivitamin, calcium, and fish oil are recommended.”
After six months, Di Salvo found the food preparation too time-consuming, so she replaced the diet’s complex carbs with Wellness CORE Reduced Fat dog food, which is popular among group members. “I used equal parts kibble and our original chicken/veggie mix. This worked very well for Scout, and I had no difficulty controlling her blood glucose. But after a month, she decided she didn’t like the CORE food and would only eat her chicken and veggies. So we made another switch, this time to Orijen Senior, which we fed half-and-half with her chicken and veggies. Scout needed a higher dose of insulin with this mix, but she was soon under control once again.”
Di Salvo continues, “Scout gets very hungry and can’t wait the full 12 hours between meals, so she gets a heaping teaspoon of canned pumpkin topped with a small piece of sardine about halfway through the day. The pumpkin helps increase the fiber in her diet.” Scout also gets low-carb treats as a reward each time her blood glucose levels are checked.
Late in 2011, Scout developed a serious urinary tract infection and struvite urinary stones. “At this point we knew that once again we were going to have to change her diet,” says Di Salvo, “but neither I nor our vet had any idea what to feed her. The Hill’s prescription diet meant for dissolving struvite stones was way too high in fat for a diabetic dog.”
Di Salvo contacted the School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University in Massachusetts and worked with a veterinarian who specializes in dietary nutrition for dogs and cats. “Her recommendation was Royal Canin Veterinary Diet Urinary SO Moderate Calorie kibble, a new low-fat option. Although I wasn’t thrilled with this, I knew it was best for Scout. She has been on this diet for two months, and it works very well with her diabetes, plus she loves it. She actually needs less insulin on this diet, and her blood glucose readings have been wonderful. The specialist said that once her stones are gone along with her urinary tract infection, we’ll be able to go back to a more economical diet, as the prescription food is expensive.” (See “Is Your Dog Stoned?” WDJ April 2010 for information on struvite bladder stones.)
Buddy, a Rottweiler living in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, with Glenda Furkalo, was diagnosed with diabetes just before his ninth birthday in February 2011. Buddy also had hypothyroidism, many allergies, and at the time of his diagnosis was recovering from pancreatitis. Because of his allergies, he was on prednisone for many years, which may have contributed to his diabetes. “These complications made his treatment more of a challenge,” says Furkalo. “We had many ups and downs.”
At first Buddy was prescribed Royal Canin Veterinary Diet Gastrointestinal Fiber Response HF dry food. “The food part was a roller coaster because of his allergies,” she says. “We had tried raw food a few years ago, and he was finally transitioned back to a home-prepared diet in April 2011.”
Buddy thrived on twice-a-day meals of 12 ounces of Spring Meadows whole ground raw chicken (including skin, organs, and bone), ½ cup cooked buckwheat or lentils, ½ cup rehydrated Sojo’s Grain-Free dog food mix, plus ½ cup Orijen 6 Fish kibble.
“We wanted to keep him grain-free,” says Furkalo, “but we needed carbohydrates to help regulate his blood sugar, thus the buckwheat and lentil choices.” These also provided fiber and low-fat calories, to help balance out the very high fat in the ground chicken. Buddy’s supplements included high doses of chromium, which Furkalo feels helped with his glucose levels, plus fish oils and vitamins B-complex, C, D, and E.
As his condition improved, Buddy’s weight, which had fallen to 75 pounds, increased to 89 pounds. “I was excited because he was doing so well,” says Furkalo, “but then we got devastating news. In January 2012, a week before the one-year anniversary of his diabetes, Buddy was diagnosed with bone cancer. We lost him to that disease in February, four days after his tenth birthday. He was a special soul, so full of love, and a joker up until the day before he passed away.”
Henry, an eight-year-old Cardigan Welsh Corgi belonging to Carol Albert of Kensington, Maryland, was diagnosed with diabetes four years ago.
“He was very draggy for a while,” she says. “About a year ago I switched his food to Blue Buffalo kibble and soon after that started combining it half-and-half with Pawgevity, a commercial raw diet (the company is owned by my sister-in-law). His energy has increased tremendously and he recently started herding the other dogs at the park again. He gets Pet Botanic Training Reward Treats after his shot and occasional Charlie Bear Treats. He also loves carrots. Since his diet was changed, Henry’s insulin requirement has gone down slightly.” (Pet Botanic treats contain glycerol, which is not ideal for a diabetic dog.)
Henry is large at 50 pounds and would be healthier at 45, Albert says. “Unfortunately, I have MS and can’t take him for long walks like I used to. We usually hit the park at the end of the street for canine companionship and for the fascinating smells.”
Kodi, a German Shepherd Dog belonging to Judy White in San Antonio, Texas, was diagnosed as a young pup. “I tried everything my vet told me to do,” says White, “until I took it into my own hands and researched everything I could get my hands on. I am a registered nurse and was determined to manage his disease. Kodi was a challenge to raise due to his large breed, ever-changing metabolism, and youth. The dry foods my vet gave us and the amount of insulin prescribed did not serve his growing body and instead forced him into diabetic crises.”
White found a product containing raw chopped bison, elk, and venison (including bone) with vegetables (from LoveYourPetBakery.com) and began feeding Kodi 1 pound of these mixtures plus 1 cup Merrick B.G. (Before Grain) salmon kibble divided into morning and evening meals. The dry food helped keep him stable and prevent hypoglycemic episodes. Kodi also eats a raw egg twice a week and gets organic chicken strips as treats. “He was fed a larger quantity while he was growing,” she says, “Now, at four years old, he is a stable, 130-pound gorgeous, shiny, muscled GSD.”
As White explains, “All of the time and effort we have spent with Kodi has been well worth it. And he’s smart. One day he actually grabbed a fork off the table and tossed it at me. As I tried to figure out what that was about I thought he looked a little funny, so I checked his blood sugar, and sure enough, it was dangerously low. Now I can look at him and guess what his blood glucose is, and I’m usually pretty close.
“In my opinion, the key to managing a diabetic dog lies mostly in a clean raw diet, knowledge of the disease’s pathology, and commitment to your animal.”
Low-Carb Raw Diets Homemade diets allow you to control all the variables, but be aware that most raw diets, whether commercial or homemade, are high in fat. While some diabetic dogs do fine with these diets, they could cause serious problems for dogs who suffer from pancreatitis, hyperlipidemia, or Cushing’s disease. Gryffin, Sunny, and Zachary are perfect examples of how well raw diets can support diabetic dogs.
Gryffin, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, was four years old – and obese at 30 pounds – when he was diagnosed with diabetes and given up for adoption. “We were his foster family,” says Alise Shatoff of San Diego, California, “and he wormed his way into permanent family member status.”
Now nine years old and a healthy 23 pounds, Gryffin eats Nature’s Variety raw frozen patties (95 percent meat, bone, and organs, and 5 percent vegetables and fruits) with digestive enzymes, salmon oil, and milk thistle extract to support his liver. Nature’s Variety, like most commercial raw diets, is quite high in fat.
Shatoff checks Gryffin’s blood sugar twice a day with an Aviva human test monitor and writes the result in his notebook. “After experimenting with other brands, we found that Gryffin does best on Humulin N for his insulin. He gets it twice a day after meals. He has been stable for four years now.”
As she learned to care for a dog with diabetes, Shatoff turned to an online forum (groups.yahoo.com/group/Oscars_animaldiabetes_support) for support. “They were the ones who suggested Humulin N for him, based on his raw diet,” she says. “I also learned how to check his blood glucose with the meter on his lip, and how to translate human glucose numbers into the dog equivalent, which saved us a ton of money by not having to buy the pet meter test strips.
“Other than his diabetes and hypothyroidism,” she says, “he is very healthy and his lab tests always come out well. He has no trouble keeping up with our Cavalier puppy and 95-pound German Shepherd. He still has his eyesight, which is uncommon after five years. I give him Natural Ophthalmics’ homeopathic Cineraria Eye Drops once a day, which I think in combination with the low carb raw diet has really helped save his vision. He has a partial cataract in one eye and the other is fine. Fortunately, cataract surgery is very successful, and we have a fund saved up for Gryffin in case he ever needs it.”
Every night after dinner, Gryffin and his canine companions chew on Leo and Mike toys stuffed with grain-free treats like Merrick dehydrated lamb lung, PureBites dehydrated cheese or beef liver, or Kong Stuff’N IQ baked salmon treats.
Sunny, a 12-year-old Greyhound, like many dogs these days, was adversely affected by the economy. “In April of 2011, I picked up this very sick dog to foster from loving owners who could no longer care for him,” says Cynthia Wilber of Catonsville, Maryland. “He was 15 pounds underweight and could barely stand. Because Greyhounds rarely get diabetes, I thought his symptoms stemmed from kidney disease, but his glucose levels were off the charts, and he responded well to fluids and insulin.”
Wilber left Sunny at her veterinarian’s clinic for three days to stabilize his condition, and he was well-regulated within six weeks.
“Initially I had him on Orijen 6 Fish and he did very well and put some weight on,” she says. “Then one day he and my Greyhound Hope ate each other’s dinners – Sunny ate Hope’s raw food and Hope ate Sunny’s kibble. I had a rough night thinking both would be sick from the mix-up, but they were fine! A month later I took the plunge and switched Sunny to raw. He went from ‘doing fine’ to ‘doing great,’ and his insulin dose decreased two full units. But that change required that I be more conscientious about giving snacks at regular times (midday, evening before his walk, and bedtime). If I fall asleep on the couch and he doesn’t get his bedtime snack, he can be confused or weak with low blood sugar in the morning.” Snacks include bully sticks, beef tendons, and dehydrated, fresh, or frozen chicken/duck feet, liver leather, and sometimes dehydrated sweet potatoes.
Wilber feeds a home-prepared raw diet that includes a wide variety of low-fat raw meaty bones, meat, and organs, plus vegetables, eggs, and dairy. Starchy vegetables, including sweet potato and winter squash, are cooked.
Because diabetic dogs can be prone to urinary tract infections, Wilber gives Sunny cranberry capsules. She also gives him a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement, salmon oil, ester C, vitamin E, and selenium. Wilber adds carrot juice or kefir to one meal a day.
“His cataracts have not gotten significantly worse since diagnosis,” she says. “He’s gained muscle, but because our walks are never more than a mile at a time, he’s not as fit as he should be. But exercise burns glucose, so even though I carry carbs on walks, I don’t push things with him because he’s too big to carry home, and I really just want him to be as happy and comfortable as possible. Despite his diabetes, Sunny is living a good life. And yes, he landed in the right home. I decided to adopt him.”
Zachary, a Lab/Shepherd mix belonging to Sheila Laing of Lansing, Michigan, lived with diabetes for four years after being diagnosed at age 11.
For the first six months, Laing followed her vet’s advice and fed Zachary Hill’s Prescription Diet w/d food. “It wasn’t helping Zachy, so I stopped the kibble and switched to a home-cooked diet for six months. Then I switched to a completely raw diet for the remainder of his life.”
Zachary’s meat selections included beef, chicken, turkey, and pork, with beef or pork hearts and beef tongue twice a week, plus kidney, liver, spleen, or tripe, and slightly cooked green beans or sweet potatoes. Liang also added bitter melon (an herbal supplement that may lower blood glucose), fish oil, parsley, eggs, and occasionally coconut oil to his food, and gave small amounts of colloidal silver periodically, which she feels helped Zachary avoid urinary tract infections.
“We have a 10-acre yard for our dogs, so Zachy had lots of exercise,” says Laing. “My husband mows a path around the inside perimeter, so in addition to all the running around he did in his big yard, I would walk him regularly on the path.”
Laing created a chart that she kept on the refrigerator door for easy access. “I’d keep a month of charts – one page held a week of activity – and file the rest where I could easily get to them,” she says. “I noted the time and his blood glucose level, the time his insulin shot was given each morning and evening, whatever supplements I gave him, and anything that was abnormal, such as diarrhea, vomiting, low activity, etc. I highly recommend charting for anyone with a dog or cat that has diabetes. Not only does it help with remembering what you do in a day, but it’s handy to refer to when needed.
“Zachy was a healthy, happy dog for most of the four years that he had diabetes. He was 15 when he passed away. I feel blessed that I was able to help him lead a healthy normal life in his senior years despite the diabetes.”
CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She lives with her Norwich Terrier, Ella, in the San Francisco Bay Area.
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