Your dog is limping and you don’t know why, so you take him to your veterinarian. The vet pushes, pulls, and palpates and announces that your dog probably has torn ligaments in his knee. She says that he needs surgery, and she can take care of that.
Photo by Christy Waehner
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While you love your dog’s vet, you’re just not sure that you agree, and you’re also unsure whether surgery is the route you want to take. You feel uncomfortable thinking the thought, but wonder what another veterinarian might recommend.
I’ve sought second opinions when I need to know more, or when I think that a specialist’s eyes, hands, and training might offer a different perspective on the initial diagnosis. When faced with serious illness in my Bouviers (who were young at the time), I didn’t hesitate to seek out a second opinion. In two cases – Axel’s immune mediated thrombocytopenia and Jolie’s back problem – I didn’t doubt the competency of the care being offered by their veterinarians; I simply wanted to be sure that the diagnosis was accurate and that I’d explored all my treatment options. I shared my decision to solicit another opinion with my veterinarians, and they gave me their full support.
After an exam by a board-certified internist, Axel’s primary care veterinarian continued to treat him, and was willing to incorporate alternative modalities into Axel’s treatment plan.
In Jolie’s case, we solicited input from her primary care veterinarian, a veterinary chiropractor, a surgeon in private practice, and finally from a board-certified neurologist at a veterinary college’s small animal teaching hospital. In both cases, we had successful outcomes and a continued good relationship with our primary veterinarians.
In my opinion, a second opinion is a good thing. We are the advocates for our dogs’ health. If I have any doubts, questions, or even just a niggling feeling that I can’t put my finger on, I will opt for a second opinion. I’ve done it enough times now to feel comfortable doing so, and there’s no reason that all dog guardians shouldn’t be, too.
Always okay A strong proponent of second opinions, Nancy Kay, DVM, DACVIM, devoted an entire chapter of her book, Speaking for Spot: Be the Advocate Your Dog Needs to Live a Happy, Healthy, Longer Life, to reassuring pet owners about looking past their primary veterinarians when they want more information about the animal’s condition. (The chapter is titled “A Second Opinion Is Always Okay.”)
Photo by Cindy Noland
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According to Dr. Kay, “Second opinions serve two valuable purposes. The clearest benefit is for your pup . . . The other beneficiary is you – second opinions tend to be reassuring, and allow you to feel you are doing the best job possible for the dog you love so dearly.”
Dr. Kay’s book is a great resource for anyone considering seeking a second opinion. Many of the concerns I had are ones she’s heard many time before, including:
– What will my dog’s veterinarian think? Despite the fact that you might feel uncomfortable doing so, it’s in everyone’s best interest that you share with your dog’s vet your plan to seek a second opinion. She should support your decision.
If my dogs’ veterinarians had reacted negatively to my decisions to seek second opinions, I’d be thinking long and hard about what kind of relationship we had, and whether it should continue. A veterinarian who is confident in her skills and relationship with you will not take offense with your seeking a second opinion.
Board-certified veterinary surgeon Alan Cross, DVM, DACVS, is an orthopedist at Georgia Veterinary Specialists in Atlanta. If a client brings a dog to him for an exam, and subsequently informs him that she’ll be seeking another opinion for a diagnosis/treatment plan, he’s agreeable. “It’s important that the owner believes in treatment they decide to pursue. If they have doubts, I don’t want to operate on that patient.” His only request is that the client takes her dog to another board-certified surgeon (if dealing with a surgical decision).
– To whom will I go? Dr. Cross’ request makes sense to me, as my preference when seeking a second opinion is to go to a board-certified specialist, or a veterinarian who specializes in the type of condition the dog has. Dr. Kay points out that it might be possible – and easy – to see another veterinarian within your dog’s clinic if you frequent a multi-vet hospital, but cautions that you might encounter a situation where the veterinarians have practiced together for so long that their thinking is similar.
For me, finding a resource outside the clinic is the way to go (unless it is a multi-specialty practice). Look first to your dog’s veterinarian for a recommendation; otherwise, search for a board-certified specialist on the certifying organization’s website, and at veterinary colleges.
Often, condition-specific discussion lists (i.e., tick borne disease, irritable bowel disease, etc.) on the internet are available, and list members might be able to provide you the name of an expert in your area. Sometimes it is necessary to drive a little further for a good second opinion. For me, the trip is worth the time.
– Won’t they run all the same tests? Not necessarily, and this is another reason to tell your dog’s veterinarian that you’ll be seeking a second opinion and with whom: she’ll be able to forward all copies of test results to the specialist.
In many cases, a second opinion visit will consist of only an exam and a discussion; you won’t necessarily need to sign up for a barrage of tests, and it won’t drain your wallet. But, if the specialist comes up with a completely different diagnosis, then be prepared to run tests to confirm the diagnosis. And, yes, it is possible that a third opinion might be in order.
– Are there alternatives? Christy Waehner of Atlanta does her best to seek a second opinion if the initial treatment plan doesn’t offer alternatives – preferably, an alternative to western medicine. When her Doberman, Sylvia, was diagnosed with wobbler syndrome (compression of the spinal cord in the neck caused by vertebral instability) the vet recommended surgery.
Although she loved her veterinarian, Waehner asked him whether there might be another option, given that Sylvia’s temperament would not lend itself well to the type of recovery required post-surgery. On her behalf, he reached out and found another veterinarian willing to implant gold beads (the procedure is an alternative therapy related to acupuncture). After a successful procedure, Sylvia returned to competing in agility.
The one situation in which there isn’t time for another opinion is when your dog is in the throes of a medical emergency. Dr. Kay recommends planning for that scenario by doing your homework ahead of time and knowing which emergency clinics in your area offer the kind of care you expect.
Second opinions are typically good things when approached with the support of your veterinarian, the right attitude, and realistic expectations given your dog’s condition. Ask questions, including “What is the typical outcome in cases like this? Best case? Worst case?” We rarely get miracles, but we can get some peace of mind knowing that we’ve gone the extra mile to help our dogs.
Lisa Rodier shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.
Behavior issues, from simple good manners infractions to the more concerning problems of phobias and aggression, appear in dogs both large and small. But while training to modify behavior issues might look the same regardless of size, in other respects, the bigger the dog, the bigger the problem. When a Dachshund has a lapse in housetraining, the cleanup process is significantly easier than if an Irish Wolfhound has an accident. If a Havanese frantically jumps up on your elderly Aunt Tilly, the collateral damage is less than if a Great Dane does the same. And if a Yorkie is terrified of riding in the car and refuses to get in for an emergency trip to the vet, he can be picked up and placed inside – not so when a Newfoundland steadfastly refuses.
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What do you do with a giant breed dog who, at the slightest hint that a car ride is imminent, runs to the farthest room in the house, lies down, and won’t budge? Such was the case of Igor, a six-year-old, 165-pound Newfoundland.
Igor’s fear of the car had gotten progressively worse over his lifetime. Elizabeth, Igor’s owner, received advice and a prescription for an anti-anxiety medication from her veterinarian. But an incident that could have been a matter of life or death prompted her to seek a referral from her vet for a behavior professional.
There were three other dogs living at the house when Elizabeth woke to a puppy playing with an empty prescription bottle. Was the puppy the one who ate the pills, or did one of the other dogs empty the bottle and leave it behind for the puppy to play with? It was clear that all four dogs needed to be taken to the veterinary clinic to be examined and the contents of their stomachs emptied. Three dogs were quickly loaded into the car, but Igor refused. All of the luring, cajoling, dragging, and shoving in the world would not convince Igor to enter what he perceived as a torture chamber. Fortunately, one of the other dogs was the culprit in this pill-eating incident, but it was enough to convince Elizabeth that something had to be done before she was possibly faced with another life-threatening emergency.
The origins of fear A dog’s fear of the car may be rooted in one or several different unpleasant associations developed when riding in a vehicle. The sound and vibration of the engine alone can be frightening to a puppy. The situation may be exacerbated by confinement in a small space with no way to escape. Many dogs experience car sickness as puppies, and even though they may outgrow it, the unpleasant association with physical illness remains. A dog may associate car travel with going to unpleasant destinations, such as the veterinary clinic or groomer, where he is poked, prodded, stuck with needles, or gets his nails trimmed. A car accident can be a traumatic experience for a dog and may lead to an intense fear. Or a dog may experience discomfort jumping into or out of the vehicle as a result of a medical condition such as arthritis or hip dysplasia.
Pinpointing the origins of Igor’s fear could help in working up a comprehensive training plan. It wasn’t likely that unpleasant destinations caused the problem; he actually seemed to enjoy his vet visits once he was at the clinic.
Physical discomfort entering and exiting the car was probably not the issue, either; Igor hoisted his large body onto the couch daily. He had never experienced a car accident. Perhaps the sound and vibration of the engine had frightened him as a puppy, or maybe motion sickness had caused his negative association. Whenever Igor was riding in the car, he hung his head between the back seat headrests and stared out the rear hatchback window. It appeared to be his attempt to visually limit motion.
Igor had shown signs of being uncomfortable in a car since he was a puppy, but his fear escalated after a round trip drive from Maryland to Tennessee when he was two years old, and over time he became more reluctant to enter the car. At first, Elizabeth was able to lure him into the car with a pig ear as a reward. Eventually, Igor figured out this trick, and would bolt across the yard when he realized he was being guided to the car. Elizabeth then started taking him to the car on-leash and forcing him into the car. Soon the leash became useless; Igor would use his massive weight to pull Elizabeth in the opposite direction. Living in an old farmhouse on several acres and rarely walking on-leash, Igor quickly associated the appearance of the leash to being taken to the car. Elizabeth approaching him with the leash became a cue for him to run to another room and lie down. When a 165-pound dog decides not to budge, there isn’t much you can do about it!
Getting help Elizabeth consulted her veterinarian, who prescribed the tranquilizer Acepromazine (“Ace”) to help with Igor’s problem. Commonly prescribed by veterinarians for pets who experience anxiety during car travel, Ace produces sedation and suppresses behavior (normal and abnormal), and decreases locomotive coordination. The medication also reduces nausea and vomiting in animals who experience motion sickness.
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Research has also shown that while Ace functions as a chemical restraint, it does not affect the animal’s emotional behavior. While under the effect of the drug, the animal may be unable to physically react to what triggers the fear, even appearing calm and relaxed, but may still be having an intense emotional reaction.
Veterinarian, behaviorist, and psychopharmacology expert Dr. Karen Overall states that Ace “works by disassociative effects, meaning that you could still perceive the stimulus, but you can’t cognitively put it together . . . you’re aware of what’s happening to you, but it doesn’t make any sense to you . . .” (This quote is from Leashes to Neurons & Psychopharmacology, a DVD of a lecture given by Dr. Overall in 2007 and a terrific resource for owners and trainers who want to know more about medications that can be used to treat abnormal canine behavior.)
If the animal is still terrified and confused, but is physically unable to react, negative associations and fears may be amplified, potentially making the problem even worse. If the fear level intensifies, the animal may even break through the chemical restraint, overriding the physiological effects of the drug. In addition, according to Dr. Overall, Ace heightens sensitivity to noises – not a desirable effect when working with a dog who already has a negative association with the sound of a car engine.
Elizabeth began to administer Ace to Igor one to two hours prior to car travel as prescribed. In his sedated state, she was now able to lead Igor to the car without much resistance. When they arrived at the car door, Elizabeth would throw treats on the back seat, place Igor’s paws in the car, and shove him in from behind. Igor was still fearful, just unable to physically resist with as much strength. After the pill-eating incident, it became evident that using Ace was not a solution. There is no time to wait for one to two hours for Ace to take effect in a medical emergency so she could shove him into the car. In January 2010, Elizabeth’s veterinarian referred her to me to help with Igor’s fear of the car.
Meeting the gentle giant The Igor I met was a sweet, affectionate, gentle soul, and with the exception of his fear of the car, had no other behavior issues of concern. Elizabeth clearly loved him, but had no clue as to what it would take to improve the situation. As many owners mistakenly assume, she believed that Igor was simply stubborn. It never occurred to her that he was actually terrified and miserable. This revelation during the consultation saddened Elizabeth; how could she have forced the dog she adored into a terrifying situation for so many years? She was eager to help Igor overcome his fear.
Igor’s fear of the car had a long history. We discussed what it would take to change his emotional response to riding in the car from one of terror to one of enjoyment, or, at the very least, calm acceptance. It was important to prevent Igor from having to ride in the car during the training, so I recommended veterinary home visits and a mobile groomer.
We reviewed the general training protocol needed to help Igor and talked about the amount of time it could take to see improvement, as well as the long term commitment that would be required of Elizabeth. She later admitted feeling overwhelmed and discouraged after our initial meeting. To her credit, she made the commitment to do the work necessary to help her beloved Igor conquer his fear – no matter what, or how long, it took.
Beginning at the beginning Counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) is considered the most effective method in working with fears, anxieties, and phobias. Our goal was to change Igor’s emotional response to riding in the car from negative to positive. To use counter-conditioning, we needed to pair something Igor perceived as wonderful (in his case, garlic hot dogs and cheese) with the scary things that triggered his fear response. We also needed to work below Igor’s fear threshold, at a level of intensity low enough to avoid a fearful response, gradually increasing the intensity in small increments as long as Igor stayed relaxed (desensitization).
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Before we actually could work with Igor in or around the car, we had to get him to the car. We began training at the point where he first became anxious about the prospect of having to go for a car ride. The leash draped over the kitchen chair, or even hanging around Elizabeth’s neck as she behaved normally in the house, elicited no signs of stress from Igor. If Elizabeth approached him with the leash he retreated. If I held the leash, Igor wasn’t particularly interested, so we began with me presenting the leash to him a couple of feet away. When the leash appeared, Igor got to graze on a handful of garlic hot dog bits. When the leash disappeared behind my back, the yummy treats disappeared as well. Soon Igor was looking to me when the leash appeared, as if to say “Yay! Hot dogs, please?” This was the conditioned emotional response (CER) that we look for in counter-conditioning; he was beginning to associate the leash with good things instead of bad.
Gradually I moved the leash closer with each trial. The process went very quickly; Igor never showed any signs of stress, even when we switched places and Elizabeth began presenting the leash. By the end of our first session we were both able to clasp the leash onto Igor’s collar as he remained calm and relaxed. To further desensitize Igor to the leash, Elizabeth left the leash on him periodically while he slept, ate, and walked around the house. He didn’t seem to mind one bit.
In subsequent sessions we continued using both CC&D and rewarding behaviors leading toward our goal of getting Igor to the car. We started by walking Igor inside the house on-leash. We played games, practiced “sit” and “come” with a clicker and treats, and gradually began training near the door that led to the driveway. By the end of one session of leash practice, the leash had become a cue for fun!
Elizabeth continued the training between our sessions, and very soon Igor willingly went outside on-leash. Since the car was parked straight ahead in the driveway, we quickly veered left into the yard and walked, clicking and giving him treats and praise on our way around the entire house, past the car, and back inside. Eventually, instead of passing by the car, we stopped next to it, briefly practiced some sits, gave treats and praise, and continued back to the house. Throughout the process we were careful to observe Igor for any visible signs of stress and moved forward only when Igor was relaxed.
Making contact Once Igor was comfortable working in close proximity to the car, we tried a couple of different techniques to get him to actually make contact with the vehicle. Igor carried a lot of weight on his frame, was considered a senior dog for his breed, and more of a couch potato then a canine athlete. We needed to conserve his movement so that we could maximize his progress in training sessions and prevent any negative association by being overworked, tired, or sore. So we continued to use CC&D to gradually open the door to the back seat with Igor sitting near the door.
At that point, it was time to try to reward Igor for his calm behavior with the door open by placing his hot dog bits on the threshold of the car door. Lo and behold, we had contact! Soon Igor calmly approached the car when lured with treats, and soon after that he approached the car just in anticipation of being given treats.
Once Igor would happily eat treats from the car doorway, Elizabeth began to feed Igor all of his meals in that location. He readily followed her to the car for his food bowl and calmly ate his meals. But when we tried to gradually move the food bowl farther inside the car, he became hesitant. His meals consisted of dry kibble only, so we tried adding a little canned food with warm water mixed in. The results of “Igor’s special sauce” were amazing. It wasn’t long before Igor was willing to get his entire body into the car to eat his meals, and would even run to the car in anticipation of his gourmet meal and leap in the back seat – well, as close to leaping as a 165-pound dog is able!
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Gradually, we were able to close the car door while he ate and open it only when he finished. Elizabeth began to sit in the driver’s seat with the door closed while Igor ate. She had faithfully worked with Igor for about three months at this point, and she could finally see a glimpse of light at the end of the tunnel.
Rev your engines! The next step of turning the ignition key was a big one. Elizabeth started giving Igor melatonin an hour prior to training sessions to help him remain relaxed. A naturally produced hormone, melatonin can reduce stress levels without causing drowsiness if given at the proper dosage.
With Igor finally entering the car willingly for treat rewards, we once again used CC&D to help him accept the sound of the ignition, the vibration, and the hum of the engine for longer and longer periods. Since Elizabeth would be doing most of the training with Igor unassisted, we needed to figure out a way she could logistically and safely feed Igor while starting the engine and moving the car.
Enter the cheesy spoon! Elizabeth used a long handled wooden spoon smeared with yummy canned squirt cheese. She offered the spoon to Igor between the front seats with one hand as she turned the key in the ignition with the other. The first time he heard the engine, Igor was startled, but the cheesy spoon quickly had his full attention. Over time, Igor remained calm in the car with the motor on with only occasional treats and lots of proud praise from his mom.
We were finally ready to start moving! Although Igor never threw up in a moving car, we decided to err on the side of caution in case he did experience motion sickness. He was given powdered ginger root in capsules prior to training to help keep his tummy calm, and we never trained him when his stomach was full.
Get the show on the road The cheesy spoon is not necessarily the method of food presentation I would recommend for a driver doing counter-conditioning on busy roads. But fortunately, Elizabeth and Igor live on a rural country lane with few houses. When Igor was comfortable with the engine running, it was time to move the car. Elizabeth began to back up the car a few feet while presenting the cheesy spoon. Then she would stop the car, remove the spoon for a few moments, then move the car forward and present the spoon again.
Practicing two to three times a week, Elizabeth used this procedure to progress to the end of the driveway, then drove a very short distance down the lane, and finally drove to the end of the lane (a tenth of a mile). Igor was rewarded with dinner at the end of these brief excursions, as well as lots of hugs, kisses, and praise. Elizabeth said he always looked very proud of himself!
Training stalled in late spring. The combination of a big black dog, rising temperatures, and a black leather car interior made it unsafe to continue, so Igor had a summer vacation from the car. Once fall arrived and the temperatures were more reasonable, Elizabeth began feeding Igor his meals in the car again, and resumed their brief trips down the country lane. In time, these trips went as far as the mailbox (a quarter-mile from the house), and eventually to the stop sign at the end of the road – about a mile and a half each way. The cheesy spoon was gone, and periodic treats were enough to keep Igor calm.
Leap of faith One rule of CC&D is to never exceed the comfort level or fear threshold of the dog during training. Moving too far too fast is a common mistake of those new to the process. It can be painstakingly slow at times, and owners often become impatient hoping for quicker results.
Elizabeth was extremely patient and worked hard to help Igor to the point where he was calm in the car riding for short distances. But one day last fall, she decided to throw caution to the wind. She loaded Igor and her other dog Abby into the car, and drove to a McDonalds, a full seven miles away! My heart dropped when she told me about the trip – until I heard the details.
Elizabeth drove slowly, feeding treats to Igor and Abby at every stop sign and red light. She ordered an Egg McMuffin at the drive-thru window, parked the car, and fed half of the sandwich to a happy Igor and Abby. They continued home and were rewarded with the other half of the McMuffin when they arrived. Would I have suggested this significantly longer trip at this stage of the training? No, but it worked out fine. And as long as Igor doesn’t become a fast food junkie, an occasional Egg McMuffin excursion is really not a bad idea.
Achieving the goal It’s been over a year since I first met Igor, the Newfie who ran at the sight of a leash for fear of riding in the car. And it’s been about six months since his successful 14-mile round trip for an Egg McMuffin. Does Igor now love car rides? No, but he usually tolerates them calmly. He’s had occasional relapses when pushed too far or too long, acting more reluctant when asked to get in the car for the next trip. But Elizabeth is now aware when she has pushed his limits, and knows to step back in training. Her commitment to helping Igor is the single biggest reason for his success.
There are only winners in this story. As long as he can walk to the car, Elizabeth never has to worry about not being able to get Igor to a vet in case of emergency. Igor no longer is terrified of anything. And I got to help the world’s sweetest Newfie and his wonderfully committed mom make a big problem go away.
Susan Sarubin, CPDT-KA, lives in Easton, Maryland, with her husband and three Rhodesian Ridgebacks. She owns Pawsitive Fit, LLC, Puppy and Dog Training, and is the Maryland State Coordinator for Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue, Inc.
Treibball (also known as “drive ball”) is a very new and very fun sport. Herding dogs are natural candidates, but so are any dogs that like to play with balls and dogs that enjoy shaping games. This is Kula, a two-year-old Weimaraner, learning the game at Sandi Pensinger’s training facility in Aptos, California.
Just when you think every possible canine sport has already been invented, someone comes up with a new one. This latest one is a humdinger, and it’s spreading like wildfire. If you haven’t already heard of treibball (pronounced “Try-ball” and also known as “Drive Ball”), you’ve been napping.
Treibball is a terrific new way to play with your dog. The game consists of “herding” a number of large inflatable exercise balls into a soccer-like net. Of course the herding breeds come to mind, but it’s also great for many of the prey-oriented sporting dogs and terriers, and any other dogs who just like to chase things.
It’s a competitive sport for dogs of all ages and sizes. It promotes better teamwork and communication between a dog and his handler. It’s great fun for any energetic dogs who work well off-leash and need a job, dogs who like to chase stuff, or dogs who like to herd and don’t have sheep!
Treibball was developed by January Nijboer in Germany (“treibball” is variously translated from German as “blowing ball,” “drifting ball,” or “propelling ball”) as a game that would occupy herding dogs. Examples of treibball dogs in action aired a few months ago on YouTube and before you could say “Go bye!” the game went viral in the American dog training world – for good reason. A “flock” of exercise balls makes an inexpensive substitute for a flock of sheep, and doesn’t violate your neighborhood association’s rules, either.
How to Play Treibball
Here are some of the basics of the actual competition:
– The playing field is 100 to 164 feet long, and 50 to 82 feet wide.
– The ball in play must stay within the boundaries of the playing area on the field.
– Eight balls are placed in a triangle (four in the first row, three in the second, one in the third) sort of like racked billiard balls.
– The goal is a regular soccer goal or similar pen – 8 feet high by 24 feet wide.
– Dog and handler have 15 minutes to drive all the balls into the goal. Timing starts when the handler signals the outrun (sending the dog out and around behind the balls) and stops when all the balls are in the goal and the dog is lying down in front of the handler. The dog must do an outrun beyond the balls, stop and pause, and wait for the handler’s cue before beginning to drive the balls.
– The handler must stay within an 18-foot radius from the center of the goal. The handler may not move the ball when it is outside the handler’s area.
– The dog may not bite or break the ball.
– Handlers may not shout at, punish, intimidate, or otherwise force the dog to perform. (We love this about the sport!)
– The fastest team with the fewest error points wins.
How to Train Treibball
As with many canine sports, you can train your dog to play without actually ever competing in treibball. You may not be that competitive or, because it is such a new sport, it may be a while before a trial comes to a neighborhood near you. But that shouldn’t stop you from having a great deal of fun teaching your dog to push big colored balls around your yard all on your own, or with the help of a trainer who offers treibball classes. If you are competitive, you’ll be ready to roll when a trial does pop up in your area.
The ability to control your dog’s position, movement, and speed is a very important element of any type of herding, whether the goal is herding live sheep or big colored balls. Hence, there are a number of skills your dog needs to perfect before he gets to start chasing balls around the yard. We’ll give you an overview of some of the skills your dog will need to learn, but for a deeper understanding of the game you’ll need a book and/or a trainer.
– The outrun: The goal behavior for the outrun is to have your dog run to a target placed 15 feet away, turn to face you, lie down, and wait for your signal to begin driving the ball. As in herding, the term “Go bye” indicates a clockwise outrun (remember, “as time goes by . . .”) and “Away” means a counter-clockwise outrun.
The first step in learning how to play treibball is teaching your dog to move in various directions on cue. Start with a “go to your mat” and “down” exercise . . .Slowly increase the distance, in small increments, that she has to travel to the mat. Advance to teaching her to go to the mat in a clockwise and also counter-clockwise direction.
Start by facing a 2-foot square target mat about 6 inches away from you. (Eventually you will reduce the size of the target mat until your dog no longer needs it.) Shape your dog to go to the mat by using a clicker (or other signal, such as a “thumbs up!” or a verbal “Yes!”) and giving your dog a treat each time he makes a movement toward the mat. (For more about shaping, see “The Shape of Things to Come,” WDJ March 2006.)
If you and your dog already know how to shape, teaching him to go to a mat will come very easily. When your dog will reliably offer to move 6 inches to the target, start cuing him to lie down when he gets there. Note: Although you’re clicking and treating for the beginning of this part of the training, the sooner you introduce and the more you rely on toys and play as reinforcers, the more successful your training is likely to be.
When he goes to the mat several times in succession and lies down without you having to cue him, back up another 6 inches and continue. Increase the distance that you ask him to target toward in 6-inch increments (or even smaller increments, if your dog has trouble with 6 inches), obtaining consistency at each distance until the mat is 3 feet away. Note: It’s tempting to move at greater distance increments. Resist the temptation. If you move too far away too quickly, you will confuse your dog and lose ground. Slow and steady is better.
– Now you can start working on signaling the “Go bye” outrun. With your dog on your left side, step forward on your left foot and use an underhanded bowling motion to signal your dog to move to the mat. Don’t say anything yet! Stand with your foot forward and your hand extended until your dog moves to the mat. Click and treat. Repeat until your dog moves immediately and confidently to the mat and lies down when you signal the outrun.
Now add your “Go bye!” cue, just before you signal with your step and hand motion. When he’s consistently confident about moving to the mat at 3 feet on your verbal cue, start increasing distance again, in 6-inch increments. Sometimes cue verbally, sometimes signal; it’s nice to be able to use either or both.
– Next, you’ll work on your “Away” outrun. To prepare for this, do some foundation work to teach your dog to walk (and work) on your right side. These days more trainers recognize the importance of this side-versatility for a number of canine activities including freestyle and agility; it’s great if you’ve already done this. If not, get started – the same way you taught your dog to walk and work on the left side – by reinforcing him for being there.
Ultimately, you’ll want to teach your dog a cue that will position him to the desired side. I use “Swing” for the left, and “Right” for the right. You can use any cues you want, as long as they are different from all the other cues you use with your dog, and you teach him what they mean.
Take your time, and train for reliable behavior without any balls being present. As soon as the balls come onto the scene, things may get silly again, so go back to short distances.To start teaching your dog to”drive” the ball, teach her to face you on the opposite side of the ball. Feed the treats in the spot where you want her to be; don’t lead her astray!
Add the Ball
My students were somewhat surprised – and I suspect a little disappointed – that we weren’t romping around with balls the first night of treibball class. In fact, it was at least the third week before we brought out one hard plastic Jolly Ball per dog, and we still didn’t play with it. When you first introduce the ball, your goal is to get your dog to run past it to his target mat – without attacking the ball. If you’re working with a dog who loves balls, this could be a challenge.
We start with Jolly Balls because if your dog does hit them, they don’t bounce around like inflated exercise balls (thus inciting more inappropriate, aroused behavior). Also, Jolly Balls don’t pop if your dog bites them – which could be highly reinforcing for some dogs or highly aversive for others. We don’t want either outcome; if your dog is reinforced for biting/popping balls (disqualification, not to mention costly!) he’ll do it more. If a popping ball is very aversive to him, he may decline to play treibball with you ever again.
Start with a small Jolly Ball, and reduce your distance to the target mat, setting the ball far off to the side, if necessary, until your dog will refocus on you and go lie down on his mat when you signal him to do so, even in the presence of the beloved ball. You may find it necessary to do some gentle body blocking if he veers toward the ball. If gentle body blocking doesn’t prevent him from moving toward the ball, you’re not ready to add the ball – your dog needs more control work first. Add a “distance down,” “moving down,” and a solid “stay” to your dog’s repertoire while you continue to practice your outrun cues past distractions that are less enticing to your dog than an actual ball.
When your dog will outrun past a ball, you can gradually increase distance to the target mat and move the ball closer a bit at a time, until he will run directly past the ball and lie down on his target mat at your signal to do so. Now try a slightly larger ball. If a larger ball distracts him, again decrease distance to the mat and move the ball off to the side. Repeat this process each time you change the ball to a larger size. Then do it with multiple balls.
Drive the Ball
In order to successfully drive the ball, your dog needs to stay on the side of the ball directly opposite you, so that any contact with the ball moves it in your direction. Stand on one side of the ball, toes pointed toward the ball, with your dog on the other side. Click, and feed him the treat at the correct spot – directly opposite you. Now toss a treat behind him to get him to move away from the ball, and click as he returns toward you, again feeding the treat in the correct spot.
Repeat until you see him automatically lining himself up across from you, then try taking a small step to the left or right, around the ball, keeping your toes toward the ball. If he counters your move to stay across from you, click and treat in the correct spot and pat yourself on the back! If not, help him with a body language cue, then mark and reward when he moves into position. Repeat a couple of the simple direct approaches he already knows, then try another small step to the side.
Continue this until you see him automatically move into position when you take one step around the ball. Then you’re ready for two steps, eventually working up to random movements around the ball. Remember – toes toward the ball!
When your foundation control behaviors are in place, you’re ready to start interacting with the ball. Ideally, your dog will move the ball with his nose, although driving with paws, chest, and shoulders is also allowed. Encourage him to push the ball with his nose by first teaching him to “target” to dots that you paste or paint on the ball, or yellow sticky notes, if he needs a bigger target. (For more about target training, see “Right On Target,” February 2006.)
Hold the ball between your knees (sitting or standing) until he’s targeting to it with sufficient energy that he would easily move the ball at least a few feet if it were on the ground. The ideal target spot is just below the midline of the ball. It works best and minimizes biting of the ball (a no-no!) if you teach him to target to some other object first, then apply it to the ball. (See “New Tricks for a Stick,” January 2007).
When he’s targeting the ball between your knees with some force, place the ball on the ground, take a couple of steps back, and cue him to touch it. Bam! You’re treibballing! Actually, you’ve only just begun, but it’s an excellent start. Still on the training agenda are:
Perfecting the Drive:
– Increasing distance between you and the ball
– Increasing distance between the dog and the ball
– Increasing distance the dog moves the ball
– Increasing speed of ball movement
– Working with multiple balls
– Calling the dog off the wrong ball
– Teaching “Go bye” and “Away” from a distance
– Fading prompts
– Training “Go on” (moving beyond target mats)
– Using whistle cues
– Adding the goal (penning)
Treibball Overview
Just as you couldn’t learn all the nuances of training agility or flyball in just one article, we can’t tell you everything about treibball in these few pages. Hopefully, however, we’ve succeeded in sparking your interest and “driving” you to other resources that will encourage you to “go on” and pursue your “goal” of herding big inflated balls with your eager canine partner.
To sum up, you can learn more about treibball by joining lists and watching videos. This will help you decide if it’s a good fit for your dog. If treibball seems like a good activity for your dog, find a trainer near you who can guide you on your treiball journey. Use the resources at the top of this page to begin your search.
If you can’t find a trainer in your area, gather some like-minded dog friends to start a treibball training group, and help each other learn.
Allergen: A substance that causes an allergic reaction. Anything can be an allergen to a hypersensitive individual, even water. The term has meaning only in relation to an individual who is hypersensitive to that substance.
Allergen-specific immunotherapy: Also known as “allergy shots.” An injection that is custom-made for each patient based on results of intradermal skin tests. The injections contain saline solution and tiny amounts of (commercially produced) extracts from the substances to which the patient is hypersensitive. The injections are given once or twice weekly for four to six months (or longer); the amount of the allergens that the injections contain is slowly increased until a “maintenance dose” is achieved. This therapy is extremely effective, though time-consuming and (over time) expensive.
Allergic contact dermatitis: A hypersensitivity reaction to skin contact with an environmental substance.
Alopecia: Hair loss.
Antibody: Also known as immunoglobulin. A complex Y-shaped protein used by the immune system to identify and neutralize foreign substances. Antibodies are produced by white blood cells.
Antigen: A molecule that induces the formation of antibodies.
Atopy: Also known as “canine atopic dermatitis.” A hereditary and chronic allergic skin disease. Dogs may be allergic to inhaled substances or substances their skin has comes in contact with. Redness and hair loss from scratching is often worst around the eyes, muzzle, ears, and on the feet.
Food hypersensitivity: Also known as “food allergy.” An uncommon, nonseasonal hypersensitivity caused by a dietary substance; an abnormal immunologic response to an ingested substance. Food hypersensitivity is not usually associated with a change in diet. Most dogs who develop the condition have eaten the same food for more than two years. A dog can develop a food allergy to any food, but the most commonly incriminated foods in canine food hypersensitivity include beef, dairy products, lamb, poultry products, wheat, soy, corn, rice, and eggs. (Note that these are also some of the most common ingredients in commercial pet food.)
Intradermal (skin) tests: A test in which tiny amounts of various environmental allergens (such as local tree, grass, and flower pollens) are injected under the dog’s skin, and the skin is observed for a reaction. Redness and swelling indicates a substance to which the dog is allergic. Needed in order to customize a dog’s immunotherapeutic injections (“allergy shots”).
In vitro diagnostic tests: Also known as blood or serologic tests for antigen-induced antibodies, ELISA, or RAST tests. Not very reliable indicators of allergy because of the large numbers of false positive and false negative results.
Pruritus: Itchiness; an unpleasant sensation that causes the desire to scratch.
Pyoderma: A bacterial infection of the skin. Generally treated with antibiotics, but the underlying cause of the infection needs to be addressed, too, so the condition doesn’t recur. The type of antibiotic prescribed will depend on whether the pyoderma originates from deep within the skin or closer to the surface (superficial).
Pyogenic: Bacterial infection that produces pus (dead white blood cells).
There are a few different types of tests available that purport to identify the allergens to which a dog is hypersensitive; some of them are helpful, and some are a waste of time and money. Since all of them are commonly referred to as “allergy tests,” few people know which ones are credible, and which ones are not. The following is a brief description of the types of tests available for allergy diagnosis.
– Blood (serologic) tests for antigen-induced antibodies – Two different methods (RAST and ELISA) are used for the most common commercial test products used by veterinarians, and the tests may be referred to by those names or by the name of the company whose test kit uses the methodology (such as Heska, Greer, or VARL). These tests are designed to detect antibodies that a dog has produced in response to specific environmental antigens. By identifying the antibodies, the tests were supposed to be able to deliver clues about the environmental substances that the dog’s immune system is treating as an “invader.
Historically, the tests have been unreliable, with lots of false positive and false negative results, though the technology has improved over the years.
If the test results indicate “55 different things your dog is supposedly allergic to,” says Dr. Donna Spector, owner of SpectorDVM Consulting, in Deerfield, Illinois, it’s not particularly helpful, “and not particularly believable, when the results indicate your dog is allergic to something that he doesn’t even have significant exposure to.” However, she adds, if there is a really strong positive result, “not just one or two points above what they say is normal, but really strong results, you have something you can ask the owner about. ‘Does your pet have exposure to oak trees?’ If the owner says, ‘Oh yeah, they’re all over our property, we’re loaded with oak trees!’ then you’ve got something you can work with.” Or rather, something you can target with immunotherapy (allergy shots).
Dr. Spector has one suggestion for those considering paying for one of these tests: “It’s best to test right after the dog has gone through his worst allergy season, because his antibody levels will be the highest at that time, and you can get the best picture of what really bothers him the most. Sometimes a vet will run a blood test randomly, say, in the middle of winter, or ‘in preparation for the upcoming spring,’ and it is not as helpful.”
– Skin (intradermal) tests for environmental allergens –
In an intradermal test, tiny amounts of a number of suspected or likely local allergens are injected just under the dog’s skin. The location is shaved (the better to observe the reaction of the skin and underlying tissue) and marked (with a pen), so the response to each allergen can be recorded. Swelling and/or redness indicates the dog is allergic to the substance injected in that spot.
Identification of the substances to which a dog is allergic is helpful for two reasons. First, if the allergens that are problematic for a dog are known, the dog’s owner can try to prevent (as much as possible) the dog’s exposure to them. Second, testing identifies the allergens to be chosen for inclusion in customized allergy shots (also known as “immunotherapeutic injections”).
Most veterinary dermatologists feel these tests are much more reliable than blood tests for antibodies. It should be noted that the testing is more time-consuming and expensive, not to mention stressful for the dog, who must be observed very closely, several times, by a stranger!
– Tests for food allergies – Both blood and skin tests for food allergies exist, but it’s difficult to find anyone (besides the companies that produce the tests) who feels the results are worth the paper they are printed on. It would be exciting and useful if it worked, but so far, the tests are a work in progress, with only an estimated 30 percent accuracy rate. Why would you bother – especially when you can conduct a food elimination trial that will deliver much more accurate information about your dog’s food allergies.
A valid food elimination trial for the purpose of confirming food hypersensitivity consists of three phases: elimination, challenge, and provocation.
In the first (elimination) phase, the dog is fed a diet consisting of a single protein source and a single carbohydrate source. Both of these ingredients should be completely “novel” to the dog – foods he’s never eaten before. (Thirty years ago, lamb and rice was the go-to food elimination diet, because those ingredients were not yet widely available in commercial pet foods. Because the diet was novel, few dogs had developed allergies to those ingredients, and “lamb and rice” gained an unearned reputation as a “hypoallergenic” diet. Many dog food companies rushed lamb- and rice-based diets to market, and the early results were good, since the formulation was novel. However, the ingredients are common in dog food formulations today; neither is likely to be completely novel to today’s hypersensitive dog.)
Today’s pet owners are fortunate in having novel proteins such as kangaroo, beaver, pheasant, and rabbit readily available in frozen and canned form. Novel grains such as quinoa, barley, or amaranth can be easily found in health food or gourmet food stores.
During this phase, the dog must be prevented from eating anything else: no leftovers, bones, chews, treats, or even supplements. If his itching has not reduced by at least 50 percent after a period of 8 to 12 weeks with no other foods crossing his lips, you can tentatively conclude that either A) his allergies are not related to his diet; or B) that you have, by some bad luck, used a food to which he is also allergic. You can try another trial, using another novel protein and another novel grain. If his itching does not reduce at that time, you can very safely conclude that his hypersensitivity is not related to his diet, but to some other factors.
If, however, his itching reduces drastically, go on to the second phase: challenge. Put your dog back on his former diet. If he is truly hypersensitive to ingredients in his former diet, his itching and other allergic signs should return within 4 hours to 7 days. Diagnosis: confirmed.
In the third (provocation) phase, the dog is again fed the novel protein/novel carbohydrate diet until his allergy signs have subsided. Then, a single ingredient is added to the diet for a week while the dog is closely observed. The return of pruritus in the week following the addition of any ingredient implicates that ingredient as a factor in the dog’s food hypersensitivity.
This is not a fun project; it takes commitment, extraordinary observation, and total control of your dog’s environment for weeks on end. However, identification of the ingredients to which your dog is allergic will enable you to simply prevent him from eating those ingredients, and stave off both the uncomfortable symptoms of allergy and the potentially hazardous treatments sometimes required to make him more comfortable.
Over the past few months, I’ve read more than 30 books on homemade diets for dogs. Many offered recipes that were dangerously incomplete; a smaller number provided acceptable guidelines but were confusing, unduly restrictive, overly complicated, or had other issues that made me recommend them only with reservations. A few were good enough to recommend without reservation.
This review is about the cream of the crop: three relatively new books (or new editions of an older book) whose authors have taken the time to analyze their recipes to ensure that they meet the latest nutritional guidelines established by the National Research Council (NRC). All three books offer boneless recipes as well as some that include raw meaty bones (RMBs), giving you the option of choosing either style of feeding, or a combination of the two, depending on what works best for both you and your dogs.
These three books take an approach that’s very different from the books that focus on just raw meaty bone diets, which I reviewed in December (“Reliable Guides for Raw Diets”). Those books provided dietary guidelines rather than recipes, relying on common sense and mimicking the evolutionary diet of the wolf rather than nutritional analyses to provide diets that are complete and balanced. I believe such an approach is valid and follow it myself, but the guidelines are often misinterpreted, leading to diets that are missing critical ingredients or overloaded with others, and thus nutritionally unbalanced and incomplete.
The books reviewed also differ from the boneless diet books I reviewed in the January issue (“No Bones About It”): none of those books provided recipes that had been analyzed to ensure that they met NRC guidelines. The best of those books gave good guidelines for creating a complete homemade diet, but each required careful attention to the text to ensure that nothing was left out. People who just follow the recipes are likely to end up feeding an incomplete diet.
The three books included in this review are quite specific about what you should feed and what supplements you need to add. They offer peace of mind for those concerned that the diet they’re feeding may not meet all of their dog’s nutritional needs. They provide a reliable alternative for those who are not able to feed, for whatever reason, the wide variety of foods needed to provide a complete and balanced diet without supplementation. They offer help to people whose dogs are experiencing health problems that could be related to their diet. And for those of us who just want to understand more about where essential nutrients come from in the diets that we feed, and what might be missing, the information they provide is fascinating.
Two of these books provide recipes that meet requirements for all life stages, while the third can be used for adult maintenance only. It’s important to pay attention to this factor when you’re looking for books to help you feed your puppy or pregnant or nursing female.
I can’t recommend these books highly enough, not only for those interested in starting their dogs on a homemade diet, but also for people who already feed one. Reading through them has made me look more carefully at the diet I feed my own dog and the dietary guidelines that I give others, particularly regarding supplements. When I’m done with the book reviews, I plan to write about the changes I’m making based on what I’ve learned from these books.
A new approach
Two books published fairly recently include recipes for both boneless and raw meaty bones (RMB) meals. These two books have similarities, as the authors have worked together in the past and relied on much of the same research. Both are particularly appropriate for those concerned that their homemade diets meet NRC guidelines, as all recipes have been designed and analyzed to ensure that they do.
These are the only homemade diet books that address the issue of balanced fats, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Modifying fats may be beneficial for dogs with skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. Both books stress feeding lean meats, which they recommend feeding raw, but light cooking is acceptable for boneless meat. Both also advise using bone meal, or other supplements that combine calcium and phosphorus such as MCHC or dicalcium phosphate, rather than plain calcium to balance the boneless recipes. The extra phosphorus is needed to meet requirements for puppies, as the recipes are designed for all life stages.
Both books omit dairy products and grains (except for one recipe with a small amount of oat bran in Brown’s book), and limit the amount of starchy vegetables. This can be beneficial for some dogs, particularly those prone to weight gain or inflammation from health issues such as allergies and arthritis. Carbohydrates, however, reduce the cost of a homemade diet. Those with large dogs who do not feed RMBs (which are usually less expensive than muscle meats) may find these diets cost-prohibitive. Very active dogs and females used for breeding can also benefit from more carbohydrates in the diet.
The winners are:
1.Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats is the perfect book for those who want simple, clear recipes that meet NRC and AAFCO requirements for both puppies and adult dogs. I loved the 2009 edition that I originally read, but I’ve also had a chance to preview the 3rd edition and it’s even better. The basic recipes are the same, but the new edition provides many more details, including nutritional analyses of all recipes. The authors still recommend feeding all of the foods in their original recipes, but the new edition offers options for omitting certain foods, telling you what additional supplements need to be provided in those cases.
2. For those who really want to understand the whys and wherefores of homemade diets, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet is ideal. Author Steve Brown delves into the ancestral diet of the dog and compares it to the latest NRC guidelines. Brown is the creator of Steve’s Real Food for Dogs (he no longer owns the company) and See Spot Live Longer Homemade Dinner Mixes. Step by step, he investigates the nutrients supplied by different foods, and how to go about combining those foods to achieve balanced meals that meet NRC guidelines without the use of synthetic supplements (he adds vitamin E and also includes bone meal in recipes that don’t include bone). Particular attention is paid to ensuring that fats are properly balanced, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3.
3. Monica Segal’s book, K9 Kitchen, offers guidelines and sample recipes for diets based on raw meaty bones, cooked diets, and combinations of the two. Segal’s moderate approach encourages you to pick the style of feeding that you’re most comfortable with and that works for your dog. Sample weekly recipes for all three styles of feeding are included for dogs of various weights and activity levels.
Mary Straus investigates canine health and nutrition as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
A barking dog is a valid reason for a neighbor to complain. Defusing the situation is the best response.
The natural thing to do when a neighbor complains about dog barking is to get defensive. “My dog? Causing a problem? How dare you?!”
Don’t go there. Defensiveness exacerbates hostilities, escalates tension, and encourages your neighbor to make a mountain out of what you perceive to be a molehill. Remember, it’s all about perception, and your neighbor’s perception is his reality. Instead of being defensive, try these things:
1. Listen intently to your neighbor’s complaint.
Unless one of you plans to move, defusing the situation beats all-out war. Set defensiveness aside, and listen to what your neighbor says. Assume there’s some nugget of truth to his complaint. You need to find it, so you can figure out what to do with it. He says your dog barks all the time, underneath his bedroom window, and wakes him up. That may be an exaggeration, but chances are your dog is barking some of the time, especially if you leave her out in the yard, or if she has free backyard access through a doggie-door.
2. Empathize and apologize for your dog barking.
Without admitting guilt, empathize with your complainer. “It must be frustrating to have to listen to barking dogs when you’re trying to sleep.” Be sincere. Tell him you’re sorry he’s being disturbed by barking. Reassure him that you don’t want your dog to be a nuisance, and you want to help find a solution to his concerns. Ask him to bear with you while you work on the problem. Bake him chocolate chip cookies.
3. Investigate your dog’s nuisance behavior.
Ask questions that won’t make your neighbor defensive. “Is there a time when it’s most annoying?” “Are there other dogs that are barking too?” “Other than giving up my dog, what would make you happy?” Set up a video camera or voice-activated tape recorder to document your dog’s activities when you aren’t home. Alternatively, take a day off and watch your own house from a distance, to see what goes on that might make your dog bark. Check the neighborhood to see if there are other dogs whose barking might be blamed on your dog. Ask other neighbors if they hear your dog, and if so, when and how much.
4. Respect all community dog laws.
Make sure your dog is currently licensed, and obey all local animal control laws. Maybe your neighbor is complaining because your dog runs loose and he feels threatened (even though you know your dog is a pussycat), or because you don’t clean up when you take her for walks. Those are legitimate grounds for complaint (as is excessive nuisance barking) even if your dog is a pussycat. You don’t want animal control to find you in violation of anything. Obey leash laws and scoop laws, and respect your neighbor’s discomfort with your dog – don’t let her off-leash even if you’re just walking out to your car. If she runs over to happily greet him, you’ll fuel the fires.
5. Take action to modify your dog’s behavior, and your own behavior.
Make changes to accommodate your neighbor and protect your dog. If his complaint is early-morning noise and she’s barking when you let her out at 6:00 am while you shower, alter your routine. Get up earlier and go out with her. Let her eliminate, then play with her. Keep her quietly occupied rather than leaving her to find her own entertainment. If it’s random throughout-the-day backyard barking while you’re away, bring her in and close the dog door. She doesn’t have to be outside all day. If things get ugly, leaving her out unattended exposes her to great risk from an irate neighbor. If necessary, pay someone to let her out for a noon potty break. If the complaint is about barking even when you are home, behavior modification is in order. (See “Modifying Your Dog’s Barking Behavior“.) If it’s something other than barking, determine how you can modify the situation to mitigate the problem. Some examples:
-Your dog charges the fence. Your neighbor fears for his children’s safety. Make the fence solid, or put up an inner fence so there’s an “airlock” between dog and kids. See, “Solve Fence Aggression with a Better Designed Dog Fence,” for more info on fencing.
-Your dog came over and attacked his dog. You think your dog was just playing, but whatever. Vow that your dog is never off her leash in your neighborhood. Even just walking to your car.
Keep your neighbor informed of your efforts to address his concerns. Document your actions in a journal in case you do have to face animal control. Ask your neighbor to let you know if he sees improvement – and document that. Save receipts for anything you buy to modify your dog’s environment. If you see your neighbor deliberately antagonizing your dog, document that with a video camera. Keep your dog safe. Be considerate. Keep baking chocolate chip cookies.
Over the past few months, I’ve read more than 30 books on homemade diets for dogs. Many offered recipes that were dangerously incomplete; a smaller number provided acceptable guidelines but were confusing, unduly restrictive, overly complicated, or had other issues that made me recommend them only with reservations. A few were good enough to recommend without reservation.
This review is about the cream of the crop: three relatively new books (one is a new edition of an older book) whose authors have taken the time to analyze their recipes to ensure that they meet the latest nutritional guidelines established by the National Research Council (NRC). All three books offer boneless recipes as well as some that include raw meaty bones (RMBs), giving you the option of choosing either style of feeding, or a combination of the two, depending on what works best for both you and your dogs.
These three books take an approach that’s very different from the books that focus on just raw meaty bone diets, which I reviewed in December (“Reliable Guides for Raw Diets”). Those books provided dietary guidelines rather than recipes, relying on common sense and mimicking the evolutionary diet of the wolf rather than nutritional analyses to provide diets that are complete and balanced. I believe such an approach is valid and follow it myself, but the guidelines are often misinterpreted, leading to diets that are missing critical ingredients or overloaded with others, and thus nutritionally unbalanced and incomplete.
The books reviewed below also differ from the boneless diet books I reviewed in the January issue (“No Bones About It”): none of those books provided recipes that had been analyzed to ensure that they met NRC guidelines. The best of those books gave good guidelines for creating a complete homemade diet, but each required careful attention to the text to ensure that nothing was left out. People who just follow the recipes are likely to end up feeding an incomplete diet.
The three books included in this review are quite specific about what you should feed and what supplements you need to add. They offer peace of mind for those concerned that the diet they’re feeding may not meet all of their dog’s nutritional needs. They provide a reliable alternative for those who are not able to feed, for whatever reason, the wide variety of foods needed to provide a complete and balanced diet without supplementation. They offer help to people whose dogs are experiencing health problems that could be related to their diet. And for those of us who just want to understand more about where essential nutrients come from in the diets that we feed, and what might be missing, the information they provide is fascinating.
Two of these books provide recipes that meet requirements for all life stages, while the third can be used for adult maintenance only. It’s important to pay attention to this factor when you’re looking for books to help you feed your puppy or pregnant or nursing female.
I can’t recommend these books highly enough, not only for those interested in starting their dogs on a homemade diet, but also for people who already feed one. Reading through them has made me look more carefully at the diet I feed my own dog and the dietary guidelines that I give others, particularly regarding supplements. When I’m done with the book reviews, I plan to write about the changes I’m making based on what I’ve learned from these books.
A New Approach
Two books published fairly recently include recipes for both boneless and raw meaty bones (RMB) meals. These two books have similarities, as the authors have worked together in the past and relied on much of the same research. Both are particularly appropriate for those concerned that their homemade diets meet NRC guidelines, as all recipes have been designed and analyzed to ensure that they do.
These are the only homemade diet books that address the issue of balanced fats, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. Modifying fats may be beneficial for dogs with skin problems and other inflammatory conditions. Both books stress feeding lean meats, which they recommend feeding raw, but light cooking is acceptable for boneless meat. Both also advise using bone meal, or other supplements that combine calcium and phosphorus such as MCHC or dicalcium phosphate, rather than plain calcium to balance the boneless recipes. The extra phosphorus is needed to meet requirements for puppies, as the recipes are designed for all life stages.
Both books omit dairy products and grains (except for one recipe with a small amount of oat bran in Brown’s book), and limit the amount of starchy vegetables. This can be beneficial for some dogs, particularly those prone to weight gain or inflammation from health issues such as allergies and arthritis. Carbohydrates, however, reduce the cost of a homemade diet. Those with large dogs who do not feed RMBs (which are usually less expensive than muscle meats) may find these diets cost-prohibitive. Very active dogs and females used for breeding can also benefit from more carbohydrates in the diet.
Simple Yet Complete
Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats is the perfect book for those who want simple, clear recipes that meet NRC and AAFCO requirements for both puppies and adult dogs. I loved the 2009 edition that I originally read, but I’ve also had a chance to preview the 3rd edition and it’s even better. The basic recipes are the same, but the new edition provides many more details, including nutritional analyses of all recipes. The authors still recommend feeding all of the foods in their original recipes, but the new edition offers options for omitting certain foods, telling you what additional supplements need to be provided in those cases.
Boneless recipes for beef, chicken, and turkey are included in both editions. The 2009 edition also has recipes for egg and sardine meals, with instructions that these can be spread out over a week rather than fed all at once. The new edition provides further details on how to integrate eggs and sardines into your weekly meal plan rather than feeding them separately. Along with the original recipes, the new edition also offers simplified versions that omit hearts and gizzards from the poultry recipes and allow you to use chicken liver with the turkey recipe, since it’s easier to find than turkey liver.
Recipes for meals that include chicken and turkey RMBs are provided as well. These recipes also include boneless meat and organs.
All recipes are 75 percent meat and organs, and 25 percent vegetables and fruits. Following the suggested rotation, the meat portion of the diet is about half poultry with the other half mostly beef, plus substantial quantities of eggs and sardines. In addition to muscle meat, some recipes also use liver and heart. No grains or dairy products are included in the diet. Two versions of each recipe are provided for making small or large batches, designed to feed a medium-sized dog for either one day or a week to 10 days.
In the 2009 edition, each meal includes its own veggie and fruit puree, while the new edition offers guidelines and three suggested recipes for putting together your own mixtures. There are separate sections for dogs and cats in the new edition, rather than combining the guidelines.
All recipes include a vitamin/mineral mix, essential fatty acids, and a “bone replacement supplement” such as bone meal for meals that don’t include RMBs. The new edition provides a range of calcium to give, since puppies require more calcium than adult dogs do (the 2009 edition just gives the higher amount that can be used for either puppies or adults). Detailed instructions are provided for putting together your own supplement mixture; additional supplementation options will be provided in the new edition, and the authors hope to offer a custom-made vitamin and mineral supplement designed to complement their recipes soon.
In the 2009 edition, krill oil is added to all meals, with additional flax oil in poultry meals and hemp oil in beef meals, to properly balance the fats. The new edition offers fish oil alternatives to krill oil, and has cut back on the need to add flax and hemp oils unless you are not able to feed both beef and poultry.
Clear guidelines are given for how much to feed adult dogs and puppies, and how to make the switch from commercial to homemade. Several chapters discuss specific types of foods and additives, including suggestions for substitutions in the recipes. Other topics covered include preparation, equipment, and storage; commercial treats; and commercial frozen foods. The new edition has added chapters on “Optimizing your pet’s diet” and “Side roads, pitfalls, and problems.”
While the supplements may seem daunting at first, these recipes are easy to follow once you have your supplies in place. I particularly like the homemade vitamin/mineral mix, which is easier to use than measuring out individual supplements each day, and helps ensure that all nutritional requirements are met.
In-Depth
For those who really want to understand the whys and wherefores of homemade diets, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet is ideal. Author Steve Brown delves into the ancestral diet of the dog and compares it to the latest NRC guidelines. Brown is the creator of Steve’s Real Food for Dogs (he no longer owns the company) and See Spot Live Longer Homemade Dinner Mixes. Step by step, he investigates the nutrients supplied by different foods, and how to go about combining those foods to achieve balanced meals that meet NRC guidelines without the use of synthetic supplements (he adds vitamin E and also includes bone meal in recipes that don’t include bone). Particular attention is paid to ensuring that fats are properly balanced, going beyond the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3.
Brown provides one recipe for boneless beef, one for poultry that includes RMBs (chicken necks, whole or ground), and one that combines both. Other ingredients in the recipes include heart, liver, vegetables, fruits, sardines, eggs, oat bran, and oysters. Supplements include bone meal, hempseed oil, salt, kelp, chia or flaxseeds, vitamin E, and coconut oil.
Brown suggests rotating the recipes, using various ruminant meats (beef, lamb, bison, venison) for the first recipe, and different poultry meats (chicken, turkey, duck, pheasant) for the second. Substitutions for other ingredients are offered as well. Two variations of the combined recipe are offered for puppies and adult dogs; the others can be used for all life stages. Detailed feeding guidelines are provided for each recipe. Four additional low-fat recipes are also included in the appendices.
Brown does not include substitutions for the RMBs in his chicken and combination recipes. Since some people are reluctant to feed whole RMBs and may not have access to a grinder or pre-ground products, I asked him if it might be possible to feed these recipes without the chicken necks. He responded that they can be replaced with the same amount of boneless chicken thighs or breast with skin and fat removed, plus 1 ounce of human-grade bonemeal or comparable calcium/phosphorus supplement that provides about 8,000 milligrams of calcium (the next edition of his book will include this information).
For those looking for a quick and easy way to improve their dog’s nutrition and health without having to feed a homemade diet, Brown also offers what he calls an “ABC day,” meals to feed one day a week to dogs who otherwise eat commercial foods. These meals do not meet NRC guidelines, but are instead designed to complement and improve the diets of dogs fed dry food, canned food, or frozen raw foods. Two recipes are provided: one for dogs fed traditional high-carb dry food, and the other for dogs fed high-protein, high-fat dry, canned, or frozen raw food. Both recipes use beef hearts, sardines, eggs, vegetables, and fruits.
Additional chapters provide information on food storage; the effect on the body of protein, fat, and carbohydrates; and how to calculate the percentage of calories that come from each. This book is more complex than many people want, though you can certainly use the recipes without following all the details about why each ingredient is used and exactly which nutrients it provides. Those of us who want to learn more about canine nutrition will find this book a real eye-opener. I refer to my copy frequently and find the information invaluable.
Raw or Cooked
Monica Segal’s book, K9 Kitchen, offers guidelines and sample recipes for diets based on raw meaty bones, cooked diets, and combinations of the two. Segal’s moderate approach encourages you to pick the style of feeding that you’re most comfortable with and that works for your dog. Sample weekly recipes for all three styles of feeding are included for dogs of various weights and activity levels.
Segal’s recipes use a variety of foods and supplements. Recommended foods include red meat, poultry, fish, organs, eggs, vegetables, fruits, and grains. Not discussed in the text but included in some of the recipes are dairy and legumes. Recommended RMBs include chicken necks, backs, wings, and carcasses; turkey necks and thighs; whole rabbit; and lamb rib.
Most weekly recipes contain between 7 and 14 ingredients, plus supplements. All recipes use kelp, zinc, and vitamin E; most use vitamin B compound and wild salmon oil; many use magnesium and manganese; and a few include cod liver oil, safflower oil, flaxseed oil, copper, multi-mineral complex, salt, and NoSalt. Calcium sources include calcium carbonate, ground eggshells, bone meal, and dicalcium phosphate.
This completely revamped 2nd edition of K9 Kitchen improves on the original in many ways. Gone are the frequent warnings about excess vitamin A and most of the overly precise recipe measurements. Recipe amounts are given in ounces rather than a mixture of ounces and grams. More sample recipes are provided, and all are weekly diet plans rather than daily recipes. Grams of protein, fat, and carbs are given rather than percentage of calories from each. On average, diets are higher in protein and lower in carbs.
Segal’s book contains a great deal of useful information, especially regarding dogs with diet-related health problems. It is a wonderful resource for those whose dogs have issues they suspect may be related to diet, including allergies, digestive upset, skin problems, and more. A chapter on stool problems and another on a variety of other health issues can help determine possible causes and dietary modifications to try.
My biggest concern with this book is that it makes things overly complicated for people with healthy dogs. Segal became interested in homemade diets thanks to her dog Zoey, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel with a multitude of serious dietary issues. I suspect Segal’s impulse to control all aspects of Zoey’s diet resulted in her being overly concerned about details that are not an issue for healthy dogs (just as a parent with a chronically ill child might worry more about that child’s diet).
Segal makes many recommendations that I feel are unnecessary if your dog is healthy or has health issues unrelated to diet. For example, she says you must input any modifications to her recipes into a spreadsheet to ensure they meet NRC guidelines. NRC-recommended amounts for minerals must be matched exactly. She advises asking manufacturers for independent laboratory analyses of all supplements.
My feeling is that if this isn’t something you would do for yourself or your family, there’s no need to do it for your healthy dog. Substitutions of similar foods could be made without the need to create a spreadsheet, as long as the dog does not react negatively to the changes. NRC recommended amounts don’t need to be matched exactly any more than our own diets must be made to match recommended daily allowances of vitamins and minerals.
It should also be acceptable to substitute comparable calcium sources. Dicalcium phosphate and bone meal are similar. Ground eggshells are primarily calcium carbonate.
There’s no need to be quite as exact as these recipes specify. Measurements to the quarter of an ounce over a week’s time are unnecessarily precise. Recipes for dogs weighing 52 to 53 pounds can be used for dogs that weigh 50 or 55 pounds. Vitamin B amounts can be increased, if that makes it easier to give daily. Round supplement amounts as needed for convenience; you needn’t worry about giving exactly 56, 105, or 595 mg of magnesium, for example, just give 50, 100, or 600 mg.
Pay attention to the section “Before You Use a Diet Plan” when using these recipes. Wild salmon oil capsules in the recipes are 500 mg, so you will need to give half as many if using the more common 1,000 mg gelcaps. Eggshells must be ground to powder, not just crushed. The amount of calcium in bone meal varies considerably between products; adjust amounts accordingly if the bone meal you use has different amounts of calcium than the 667 mg per teaspoon used in these recipes.
Mary Straus investigates canine health and nutrition as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.
The January issue of Whole Dog Journal featured “Say My Name,” an article by Pat Miller that explained the importance of teaching your dog to recognize and respond to his or her name. In a sidebar to that article, Pat also discussed the issue of naming (or renaming) your dog. And she announced a little contest for our readers, asking you to share the story of how you selected your dog’s name and why. Pat said she would select some winners and the “top three” would win a signed copy of her newest book, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.
Apparently, dog names are very important to our readers, too. We received more than 250 contest entries, via the U.S. mail and email, as well as through comments on the WDJ website (whole-dog-journal.com) and the WDJ Facebook page. (All of the Facebook and WDJ website entries can still be viewed online.) When we read them, we laughed, we cried, we felt like these stories ought to be a book! But picking a winner was difficult – kind of like adopting just three dogs out of a huge shelter full of terrific canine companions.
There was nothing scientific about Pat’s selection process; she simply chose the ones that touched her the most, with an admitted bias toward shelter and rescue dogs. Below are Pat’s three winners and three runners-up. Thanks to everyone who shared their funny, sweet, and memorable dog-naming stories.
“HOPE”
Kate Durket, Sutherlin, OR
Here is the story of my “do over” dog.
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In 2004, after losing my beloved girl, Grace, I was adamant about finding a dog who needed a new chance. After many weeks of looking I was contacted by my vet, who told me about a six-month-old Shepherd-mix who had been severely beaten and left abandoned.
When I went to the shelter to see her I noticed that “Linda” (as she was then known) was being bypassed by all the people looking for dogs that day. When I finally stood in front of her kennel it was easy to see why. She was a mass of bruises and lacerations, and the only fur she had was on her head. I gently knelt down and without hesitation she came up to me and licked my hand. In that moment Hope was reborn. She joined her “sister” (my Cocker-mix, Faith) and has been a wonderful member of my family for the past six-plus years. And last year on Christmas Eve my third girl, Joyeux Noel was born. My three girls, Faith, Hope, and Joy are ambassadors of love in my little town.
“SCORE”
Erin Saywell, Sykesville, MD
My pit-mix is named “Score.” Here’s his story:
I have a friend from an online message board who takes his dogs to a doggy daycare in North Carolina. My friend fostered and found homes for two Lab puppies who had been abandoned near a Dumpster near the daycare, so he was the one the daycare called the next time they needed to find a home for another abandoned pup.
It seems that a drug addict wandered into the daycare’s store area and stole $200 out of a donation jar. A few days later, he wandered back into the store. They told him to get out or they’d call the police. He asked them if they’d seen a puppy. With a lot of eye rolling, they told him to leave. Sure, he’s got a puppy . . . right! About an hour later, they found an eight-week-old puppy sitting on the sidewalk in front of the store. They scooped him up and called my friend, who took the puppy, of course.
My friend posted pictures of the puppy. I asked – half joking – if he’d like to donate the pup to my local assistance dog organization. He agreed readily, and we arranged for the new pup to come to Maryland.
I named him Score, both for his “old owner” and for his new life; he sure “scored”! He ended up washing out of the program because of his looks (too “pit bull”) and he stayed with me. He’s now a service dog demonstrator, a therapy dog, and an awesome flyball dog!
“LIBERTY”
Dawn Goehring, Gatlinburg, TN
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On September 11, 2001, I needed a bit of love so I went to my local animal shelter. I was looking for a dog with good potential for becoming a trick dog. I was just getting started on training a group of dogs to perform together and I needed just the right dog to fit into my family.
When I got to the shelter I saw several dogs that would be great, but one caught my eye. She was a Beagle-mix, just circling in her cage. I knew this was not excitement, but stress. The closer I got, the faster she circled. I took her out. She jumped in my lap and proceeded to lick me all over. It was just the thing I needed on that sad day.
I took out some treats and played with her. I quickly found that she did the most beautiful stand on her back legs, like a statue! And because of the day, I thought of the Statue of Liberty. A patriotic name to remember the day and honor it. Liberty needed a job, as her neurotic circling was a major issue. But 10 years later she is one of my best working dogs, still curls up in my lap with kisses, and will always stand tall like the symbol she was named after!
Runners-up
Pat Miller selected the following three stories as runners-up in our contest, but of course these terrific owners are winners in their own right. What great stories!
“TOBY VAN HOGH”
Talitha Neher
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When we were little, my grandmother used to unpin her hair, brush it until it crackled, and tell us she was a witch. Then she’d tell us the story of Little Dog Toby, who would bark! bark! bark! to scare away the hobbyahs that came of out the swamp at night to eat the Little Old Man and Little Old Woman. Unfortunately for Little Dog Toby, the Little Old Man (who hadn’t read Don’t Shoot the Dog!) thought Toby was just being obnoxious and came out with the scissors each night to cut off a body part and shut him up, starting with his ears.
Fast forward about 25 years, and I’m a veterinarian working with several local rescue groups. Thanks to a tolerant husband, my house is something of a halfway house for injured bully breeds. Usually they go on to long-term placements, but some of them stay. One of those is Toby.
Toby was anonymously relinquished to me after a home ear crop job went south. He came after a street-corner handoff, shaky and sick, ears crusted with blood, and dead tissue and cartilage hanging out everywhere. The lines of Sharpie ink were still visible on one side.
I got some fluids, antibiotics, and pain meds into him and took him to surgery to salvage what was left of his ears and relieve him of his testicles. I contacted Boise Bully Breed Rescue, made a report to Animal Control, and took him home for the night for observation. When I caught myself telling him that “Mommy would never let anyone hurt him like that again,” I knew he wasn’t going into rescue – and that meant he needed a name, preferably one that was pretty charming, since he would grow into an oversized pitty with a lopsided fighting crop.
I called my sister about him. “You have to call him Little Dog Toby!” she said. I also called my best friend from vet school, whose suggestion for a name was “Van Gogh!” Both names seemed to fit him, and he became Toby van Gogh.
He’s almost two years old now and embarking on agility classes. He’s going through a mouthy adolescent stage, but I can’t imagine life without him. I’ve attached a picture of his ears when he came to me and one of him now, hiking with his brother, “Stagger Lee.”
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“ROSCO”
JoAnne Tuffnell
When our son and daughter-in-law brought home their beagle from the Humane Society, his name was “Midas.” They sat down and looked through lists of names, went online for good dog names, and talked with family members. They finally chose “Rosco.” We were all stunned at how quickly he responded to his name and knew their choice had been a good one.
A few weeks later we had tree men working in our woods. I started talking with one of them, and the conversation turned to dogs and rescue animals. I said our kids had just adopted a beagle named Rosco from the Hamilton County Humane Society. “They got Roscoe?” he asked. He proceeded to tell me that his relatives had adopted a dog from the city humane society, but he barked too much for their neighborhood; the relatives asked this man to take the dog, but it didn’t work out for him either, so he returned the dog to the relatives. The relatives then took him to the county humane society, pretending they had found him because they were too embarrassed to return him to the city’s pound. The county group took him in and placed him for adoption.
“But what does that have to do with Rosco?” I asked. The man said, “You said it’s a Beagle, right? And his name is Roscoe?” “Yes,” I answered, “But his name was Midas when my son and daughter-in-law got him. THEY named him Rosco.” He continued to talk about the dog and we compared notes and dates. Yes, the unbelievable is believable. Roscoe the Beagle became Rosco the Beagle. No wonder he learned his name so fast! And the lack of the letter “e” didn’t bother him one bit.
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“ROGUE”
Debbie Schwagerman, Terrell, TX
Most of our dogs are rescues but we think they still deserve full “registered” names anyway! We pulled our latest rescue dog from a shelter that does not even adopt to the general public as our new “foster” dog. We like looking for fosters from this particular shelter because the dogs have such a small chance of getting out.
We were not looking to add a new dog to our permanent pack at all, but her slightly wild nature and sweet, snuggly personality caught us both off guard. We found ourselves unable to give her up when it came down to it. So, she became a permanent member of “The Ruff Mutt Gang” and was then named Ruff Mutt’s Caught Ewe Off Guard, aka “Rogue” (she’s a Border Collie, hence the “ewe” spelling).
A surgical procedure used on humans to remove brain tumors that cause Cushing’s disease is now becoming available to dogs, thanks to collaboration between a human neurosurgeon, a veterinary endocrinologist, and a veterinary surgeon in the Los Angeles area.
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Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism, or HAC) is an adrenal disorder common in middle-aged and older dogs, affecting an estimated 100,000 dogs per year in the U.S. It occurs when the body produces too much cortisol, causing increased appetite and thirst, skin problems, and muscle weakness. Cushing’s can also predispose dogs to other conditions such as diabetes, pancreatitis, and infections.
There are two types of Cushing’s disease: adrenal and pituitary. The pituitary form is the most common, accounting for about 85 percent of cases. Pituitary-dependent Cushing’s is caused by a small, usually benign tumor of the pituitary gland, which leads to overproduction of the hormone ACTH, which in turn triggers the adrenal glands to overproduce cortisol.
Because these tumors have been considered too difficult to remove, pituitary Cushing’s is managed with medications that suppress the production of cortisol. This treatment can relieve symptoms, but cannot cure the disease, and the treatment requires careful monitoring to ensure that cortisol levels don’t get too low. The average life expectancy for dogs with pituitary-dependent HAC is about 30 months, with younger dogs living longer (4 years or more). Many dogs ultimately die or are euthanized due to complications related to Cushing’s disease such as neurological problems, pulmonary thromboembolism, diabetes mellitus, or infection.
Human research into a new type of surgical imaging device is being done at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles. Recently, veterinary endocrinologist Dr. David Bruyette (DVM, DACVIM) and veterinary surgeon Dr. Tina Owen (DVM, DACVS) from VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital contacted the neurosurgeon who had been studying the use of a scope (called a VITOM) and asked if he would investigate whether the device could be used to perform pituitary surgery in dogs. After looking into it, the neurosurgeon recognized that this device would be ideal for dogs, and agreed to show Dr. Owen how to perform neurosurgery to remove pituitary tumors.
The surgery is done by creating a tiny hole in the back of the mouth in order to enter the skull at the base of the brain and remove the tumor. The VITOM, also called an exoscope, displays the area on a large, high-definition monitor, magnified up to 12 times its actual size. The tool makes the procedure easier and safer, but it still requires considerable skill to be able to do such intricate surgery.
I spoke with Dr. Bruyette about the results so far. Dr. Owen has performed the procedure on 15 dogs and two cats. One dog died during the surgery, and two others died after treatment for unrelated reasons; the rest are doing well, with two dogs now remaining symptom-free over a year following surgery. Dr. Bruyette anticipates an intra-operative mortality rate of 2 to 5 percent, and an 85 percent success rate with full remission of symptoms, based on results seen in the Netherlands, where this type of surgery has been performed for several years.
Most dogs remain hospitalized for five to seven days following surgery. Because the pituitary gland controls the sleep/wake cycle, some dogs remain “sleepy” for longer than that. Dogs who live in the area can return home even if still sleepy, but those from outside the area might have to remain hospitalized for up to an additional week. The clinic can work with clients from out of the area, even helping to fly their pets back when ready. Cost of treatment is currently estimated to be $8,000 to $10,000, which should decrease over time.
Currently, Dr. Owen has performed surgery only on dogs with “macrotumors” – those larger than 1 cm. Most pituitary tumors (90 percent) are “microtumors,” too small to be seen by the naked eye. Eventually, they hope to treat tumors of any size. When the tumor can be visualized well, it is sometimes possible to remove the tumor and leave the pituitary gland.
If the tumor cannot be visualized, or cannot be separated from the pituitary gland, the whole gland is removed (“transsphenoidal hypophysectomy”). Veterinary surgeons in the Netherlands have focused on this type of surgery. When the pituitary gland is removed, dogs must be supplemented with thyroid hormone and prednisone to provide cortisol that the body can no longer produce on its own.
Dr. Owen has trained veterinary surgeons at the VCA facility in Boston. She and Dr. Bruyette plan to offer a course on the East Coast later this year to teach other veterinarians to do the procedure. Dr. Bruyette estimates that eventually 5 to 10 specialty facilities in the U.S. will offer this treatment.
Dr. Bruyette also says, however, that ultimately another solution may become available. The doctors hope to do clinical trials on a substance that shrinks pituitary tumors in the laboratory. This oral medication is currently being tested on two dogs, but it’s too soon to know how well it’s working. The researchers are looking for other dogs to participate in clinical trials. Dogs must have a large tumor verified by MRI. Subsequent MRIs will be done at two and three months after starting treatment. If interested, email David.Bruyette@vcahospitals.com.
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