On March 30, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced that it had rejected a petition from environmentalists that would have banned bisphenol A (BPA) from all food and drink packaging. The scientific evidence at this time, said the FDA, does not suggest that the “very low levels of human exposure to BPA” afforded through our diets are unsafe.
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“The agency has performed extensive research on BPA, has reviewed hundreds of other studies, and is continuing to address questions and potential concerns raised by certain studies,” the news release continued. “The agency takes all concerns about BPA seriously and is evaluating them as part of the agency’s ongoing oversight of food safety.”
This release generated a tornado of disbelief, skepticism, and contempt from environmental and health activists, who frequently fear that BPA may be poised to kill all of us and our little dogs, too. In recent years, many pet owners have expressed concern about feeding canned food to dogs and cats due to the potential for exposure to BPA. How valid are these concerns?
What is BPA? Bisphenol A was first synthesized (with acetone and phenol) by a Russian chemist in 1891. In the 1930s, the substance was found to have the ability to mimic human estrogen in the body, and it was tested as an estrogen replacement therapy for women. In the 1950s, chemists at Bayer and General Electric pioneered its use in plastic manufacturing; its ability to harden plastics – while retaining enough flexibility to keep the material from shattering – made it a wildly popular material.
Over the past 60 years, the industrial use of BPA has become pervasive in the human environment. In addition to its use as a microfilm lining inside food cans (preventing food from chemically interacting with the metal can), it’s used in plastic food and beverage containers, baby bottles, dental sealants, CDs and DVDs, medical equipment, sports equipment, eyeglass lenses and more. It’s also used to make carbonless copy paper and thermal paper – the kind used in many cash register and ATM receipts.
BPA readily enters our bodies via any contact we have with it. Humans ingest BPA that has leached into foods and beverages that are packaged with it. It can be absorbed through the skin by simple contact with products that contain it. (The amount found to be absorbed through the skin by briefly holding cash register receipts made with BPA is higher, in fact, than the amount that typically leaches into food and beverages from BPA-based packaging.) It also can enter the human body through respiration; studies have found BPA in soil and house dust.
BPA is rapidly metabolized and excreted by the body; its transit time in our bodies is quick. But it can be detected in about 95 percent of the population at any given time. This persistent test result demonstrates that we are subject to constant exposure to the substance.
Health Effects Despite the fact that BPA has been known to be an estrogenic substance since the 1930s, no concerns were raised about its potential for causing health problems as an endocrine disrupter until 1997, when adverse effects of low-dose exposure to laboratory animals were first reported. It has been extensively studied since then, with the varied results one might expect from such a widely used product upon which so much industry relies. Some studies conclude that BPA at the currently accepted levels presents no threat to human health; others warn that the average levels found in humans are above those that cause harm in animals used in laboratory research.
In general, endocrine disrupters cause the greatest harm to animals in the earliest stage of their development, i.e., in utero and as infants. In 2006, a U.S. government panel of experts reviewed the scientific literature available on BPA and concluded that “BPA at concentrations found in the human body is associated with organizational changes in the prostate, breast, testis, mammary glands, body size, brain structure and chemistry, and behavior of laboratory animals.” (The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency considers exposures up to 50 µg/kg/day to be safe for humans. No limits for dogs or cats have been established.) Other studies have reported that BPA has adverse effects on thyroid hormone action.
BPA and Cans Canned pet foods are probably one of the most likely sources of BPA in our dogs and cats (their diets are far less varied than ours).
Both steel and aluminum (the two most common can materials) must be lined with a barrier material to prevent interactions between the metal and food acids, enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and other substances. Once upon a time, tin was used to line steel cans; this wasn’t perfect, either, as it imparted a distinctive “tinny” taste to foods. But for the past 30-plus years, the liner of choice has been BPA. The North American Metal Packaging Alliance (NAMPA) boasts that since the complete industry adoption of BPA-based epoxy resin liners in food and beverage cans, there has not been a single incidence of foodbourne illness resulting from the failure of metal packaging. Unless you’re 40 or more years old, you may not even be aware that such a thing was possible!
This reliability would be terrific news, if only BPA didn’t leach into the consumable products it was supposed to protect. But it does get into the food, and scientists don’t even fully understand which chemical reactions are responsible; patterns that completely explain the wide range of BPA levels found in food and beverages do not exist. According to one FDA report, “Large variations in BPA concentrations were found between different products of the same food type and between different lots of the same product.” In other words, one brand of green beans may have high BPA levels while another brand of the same type of beans will have low levels. It’s even been observed that BPA levels can vary from lot to lot of the same product from the same brand.
The Search for a Reliable Alternative According to NAMPA, the industry has made some progress in identifying alternatives to BPA, with four materials currently being explored: vinyl, acrylic, polyester, and oleoresins. The organization is not bursting with pride over any of these alternatives, though. “While each offers some of the needed characteristics for use as an interior can coating,” NAMPA states, “none of them meet all the performance and safety characteristics currently met by BPA-based epoxy resins . . . . Like BPA epoxy resin coatings, these coatings allow some migration of materials into the food product. Unlike BPA epoxy coatings, however, these alternatives have significant limitations.
“These other can coatings can impart odor and taste to the food product, have less flexibility, cannot withstand high temperatures required for sterilization, and compromise shelf-life, resulting in potentially higher costs and less choice to the consumer. For example, although often cited as the BPA-alternative of choice in the media, oleoresinous enamel is not viable for most food or beverage items. It represents a very small fraction of the overall canned vegetable market because of its limited performance.”
Companies that compete in the natural or holistic food niche have called the loudest for alternatives to BPA-based can liners. Eden Foods was a pioneer in this regard; about 10 years ago, when Mike Hall, the founder and president of Eden Foods, learned that oleoresinous enamels were used to line cans before the development of BPA, he asked his can suppliers to go back to that material. Until recently, BPA-based liners were still used for Eden’s tomato-based canned foods, because only BPA has been proven to resist deterioration caused by high-acid products. Eden finally gave up the wait for an alternative, though, and now packages all of its high-acid tomato-based products in glass jars.
Pet food companies (especially those that, like Eden Foods, are marketing “holistic and natural” products) are also begging canning material suppliers for alternatives to BPA-based liners. But safe and effective alternatives for pet food cans are simply not yet available. It’s proving much more difficult to find a reliable can liner for a chemically complex product like pet food than for vegetables. Dog and cat diets need to be “complete and balanced,” containing all the proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals that our pets need. All of these ingredients, as well as the carriers, binders, thickeners, and other “functional” ingredients, have the potential for chemical interactions with the can liner. Formulating such a barrier material requires the testing of hundreds if not thousands of different chemical reactions. Many products have showed early promise, but failed “shelf life” tests.
Related Alternatives Note that several of BPA’s close chemical relatives, including bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (usually abbreviated as BADGE but sometimes seen as DGEBA), bisphenol F, bisphenol F diglycidyl ether (abbreviated as BFDGE), and bisphenol sulfonate (bisphenol S), are also used for lining food and beverage cans; these other products are more frequently used on aluminum cans.
Today, almost all small cans – those that hold 3 to 5.5 ounces of wet food – are made of aluminum and lined with either BADGE or BFDGE. These cans are stamped out of a sheet of aluminum and don’t require a welded seam on one side the way steel cans do. A stronger material than aluminum, steel is used for larger cans, and BPA is still considered the most reliable coating for steel. If another coating is used in a steel can, the welded seam is almost always coated with a strip of BPA, and then the alternative coating is applied over that.
Unfortunately, like BPA, all of these chemicals are estrogenic, and all of them have demonstrated their ability to leach into food and beverages. Further, even less is known about these newer chemicals than about BPA.
Marketing The lack of BPA-alternatives for safe, reliable canned pet food liners hasn’t kept pet food companies from attempting to competitively describe and market their products. We’ve seen companies describe their use of BPA as minimal, miniscule, or “less than the amount allowed by the FDA.” Some say that they have “discontinued the use of BPA” in their small cans or that “our small cans are already BPA-free.” They may state they “are actively seeking out alternatives to BPA,” “testing substances to replace BPA,” or “phasing out BPA” as soon as they can find a feasible alternative. (Campbell’s Soup recently made national headlines with this last claim.)
The thing is, all of these statements could be said by any maker of canned foods, and they all mean the same thing. Virtually all canneries use only a small amount of BPA-based can lining material, it all leaches less than what the FDA allows, and the entire industry is frantically researching and testing alternatives.
Watch also for statements to the effect that “our raw can materials” or the cans themselves have no BPA. Technically, these statements are true of every can, too; it’s the can liners that contain BPA. Tricky!
Decision Time As the FDA recently stated, it’s not clear that the amount of BPA present in our (or our pets’) diet is a certain health hazard. But for some pet owners, the decision to avoid this particular chemical exposure is easy; they don’t or won’t feed canned food to their pets.
That’s fine if their alternative to canned food is a fresh home-prepared or commercial frozen diet. But it would be unfortunate for pets whose owners won’t use these alternatives and who would benefit from a wet diet, such as dogs with kidney disease, senior dogs with poor appetites, and all cats (researchers are starting to suspect that many feline health problems are due to eating dry food). And given the ubiquity of this chemical in the modern environment, one can’t even be assured that avoiding canned foods will prevent your pet’s exposure to BPA.
Making meals from scratch is the only way I know to have exactly what I want for my dogs – no ingredients from places with spotty records for quality assurance, no multi-syllabic additives making a label longer than I like. After I covered the pet-food recall in 2007, I changed the way I eat and the way I feed my pets. For my dogs, that meant commercial products from companies I trusted, along with raw-food meals from regional sources of meat, grains, and vegetables.
It wasn’t a huge shift from raw to cooked when my Flat-Coated Retriever, McKenzie, started chemotherapy for soft-tissue sarcoma a few days after her seventh birthday. At the suggestion of her veterinary oncologist, I dropped the carbs, rebalanced the diet with the help of some expert advice, and started feeding “McKenzie Meatloaf” to all three of my dogs. The canine “cancer diet” is essentially carb-free, and cooked to reduce the load of potential pathogens that trouble many veterinarians about diets with raw meat, especially when a dog’s immune system is suppressed by medication.
While it was easy to turn a good raw diet into a good cooked one, I ran into a challenge when it came to treats. The solution? A dehydrator. Allow me to share what I’ve learned about making healthy and irresistible dog treats.
1. If you’re serious, buy a big dehydrator.
Dehydrators come in all sizes and price ranges; I went with a fairly large home model from Excalibur. I’ve been very happy with it, although if I were to do it again, I’d spring for the model with a timer, adding $25 to the cost.
Dehydrators start about $30, and the large one I bought was $250 retail, but I paid $200 online. Check eBay or Craigslist and you can get an even better deal if you are patient; I’m generally not!
For cubed or stripped meats/organs, my nine-tray model will easily dehydrate 20 pounds of meat at once. Because some parts are large (beef hearts are 10 pounds, and livers are large, too) and because I buy even small items in bulk (such as turkey, chicken, or duck hearts packaged in 10-pound bags) I got a large dehydrator so I can process a lot at once.
2. Find quality meats.
Join a raw food buyer’s group or co-op if one is anywhere near you; then you should be able to get meat from humanely cared-for, local animals at a good price. I buy bulk bags of hearts (chicken, turkey, and beef), liver (chicken and beef), and beef trachea from a raw feeders’ co-op about 100 miles from where I live. Other parts are on order, including poultry feet and what are euphemistically called “pizzles” – cattle penis. Even if you don’t have access to a buyer’s group, a custom butcher should be able to hook you up with products you’ll never see in your supermarket.
The biggest surprise? Beef trachea. Raw cattle windpipes – they can be two or more feet in length with a diameter of 3 to 4 inches – are a little hard to handle if you’re squeamish. Tracheas are awkwardly shaped, and require the removal of every other tray in my dehydrator to accommodate their height, so I can dry only five of these at a time. But after eight hours in the dehydrator they dry into perfect chews that are easily cut with a bread knife into two pieces that are just right for chewing by my retrievers.
3. Read the cleaning and safety instructions.
You’re ready to go after reading the booklet that comes with the machine. Precise drying isn’t a problem, since dogs are pretty happy even if you overshoot the “chewy” stage of jerky preferred by humans.
4. Set it up somewhere . . . else.
I don’t dehydrate in the kitchen; the smell of liver drying at low heat was gag-inducing for me – and hard to ignore for my drooling dogs. After the first batch was done, the dehydrator found a permanent set-up in the garage.
5. Prepare the meat.
This is easy. I rinse the meat, cut it to double the size I want to end with, put it on the racks, and turn on the machine for a few hours. That’s it! When it’s reached the level of dryness I want, I store the treats in plastic bags or containers in the freezer, taking out a little at a time for freshness.
So what do my dogs think? They love the treats. The poultry hearts and liver are good for training, and the trachea sections are every bit as popular as store-bought chews.
No matter what the future brings for McKenzie, I suspect I’ll be using the dehydrator to make treats for my dogs for years to come. It’s only been a few months since I bought it, but the dehydrator is nearly paid for in what I’ve saved by not buying organic, top-quality treats.
A resident of Northern California, Gina Spadafori is a syndicated pet-care columnist and the author of more than dozen books on animals and their care. She is also the writing partner of “Good Morning America” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker.
Researchers speculate that the development of diabetes may have a genetic component, including affecting certain breeds more than others.
For years public health officials have reported a diabetes epidemic among America’s children and adults. At the same time, the rate of canine diabetes in America has more than tripled since 1970, so that today it affects about 1 in every 160 dogs. But while many human cases are caused and can be treated by diet, diabetes in dogs is a lifelong condition that requires careful blood sugar monitoring and daily insulin injections.
The medical term for the illness is diabetes mellitus (mellitus is a Latin term that means “honey sweet,” reflecting the elevated sugar levels the condition produces in urine and blood). Diabetes occurs when the body is unable to produce sufficient insulin to metabolize food for energy, or when the body’s cells fail to utilize insulin properly.
The pancreas’s inability to produce insulin is known in humans as type 1 (formerly called juvenile or insulin-dependent) diabetes. Type 1 diabetes affects virtually all dogs with the condition. Dogs can also develop gestational diabetes during pregnancy.
Type 2 (formerly adult onset) diabetes, which is the result of insulin resistance often linked to diet and obesity, is the most common form of diabetes in humans. Most diabetic cats have type 2 diabetes, but there is no evidence that Type 2 diabetes occurs in dogs.
Signs of Diabetes in Dogs
The classic symptoms of diabetes in dogs are excessive thirst, increased urination, and weight loss despite normal or increased food consumption. Acute-onset blindness resulting from cataracts can also be a sign.
The diagnosis is easy to confirm with simple tests for glucose (sugar) in the blood and urine.
Other test results linked to diabetes include ketones in the urine, increased liver enzymes, hyperlipidemia (elevated cholesterol and/or triglycerides), an enlarged liver, protein in the urine, elevated white blood cells due to secondary infections, increased urine specific gravity resulting from dehydration, and low blood phosphorus levels.
Canine diabetes may be complicated or uncomplicated. Complicated cases, in which the patient is ill, not eating, or vomiting, require hospital care. Fortunately, most cases are uncomplicated and can be treated at home.
Dogs at Highest Risk for Diabetes
What causes diabetes in dogs? Diabetes is one of the most common endocrine diseases affecting middle-aged and senior dogs, with 70 percent of patients older than seven at the time of diagnosis. Diabetes in puppies hardly exists – diabetes rarely occurs in dogs younger than one year of age, and it is more common in females and neutered males than in intact males.
Keeshonds, Pulis, Cairn Terriers, Miniature Pinschers, Poodles, Samoyeds, Australian Terriers, Schnauzers, Spitz, Fox Terriers, Bichon Frise, and Siberian Huskies may be at higher risk. Because of these breed connections, researchers speculate that the development of diabetes may have a genetic component.
An estimated 50 percent of canine diabetes cases are likely linked to pancreatic damage caused by autoimmune disorders. These disorders have many possible causes, including genetic predisposition and environmental factors. Many holistic veterinarians speculate that they may be linked to overstimulation of the immune system from multiple vaccinations, processed foods, and other environmental insults.
Extensive pancreatic damage resulting from chronic pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas) may contribute to diabetes in 30 percent of canine cases. Pancreatic disease can also cause exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, or EPI, resulting in a deficiency of digestive enzymes. When a dog develops both EPI and diabetes, the diabetes typically appears several months before symptoms of EPI.
An estimated 20 percent of canine patients develop insulin resistance from other conditions, such as Cushing’s disease and acromegaly (too much growth hormone), or from the long-term use of steroid drugs, such as prednisone. In females, insulin resistance may accompany the heat cycle, or gestational diabetes may occur during pregnancy. In these cases, symptoms may disappear when the heat cycle or pregnancy ends. Diabetes may also resolve when steroids are discontinued or Cushing’s disease is treated.
Though many people assume otherwise, there is actually no clear evidence that obesity causes diabetes in dogs. However, obesity can contribute to insulin resistance, making it more difficult to regulate overweight dogs with diabetes. Obesity is also a risk factor for pancreatitis, which can lead to diabetes.
Cataracts in Dogs Due to Diabetes
Cataracts are a clouding of the lens of the eye. Diabetic cataracts are a leading cause of blindness in humans, and the same is true for dogs. The majority of canine patients with diabetes develop cataracts within six months of diagnosis, and 80 percent do so within 16 months. The risk of cataract development appears to increase with age regardless of blood sugar levels, so that even well controlled diabetic dogs can develop cataracts.
Surgery has saved the sight of many dogs. Cataracts treated in the early immature stage have the highest success rate and fewest surgical complications.
Hypermature cataracts create inflammation (uveitis), causing pain, eye redness, and pupil constriction. When uveitis is seen prior to surgery, the success rate for pain-free vision six months later is only 50 percent, as opposed to 95 percent for those with no pre-surgical uveitis.
Phacoemulsification to remove the lens is the preferred surgical method for diabetic dogs. After surgery, an artificial lens is installed for optimal post-operative vision. Although cataracts typically affect both eyes, treating just one can reduce costs (estimated between $1,500 to $3,000 per eye) and still restore vision.
Other potential complications from diabetes include decreased corneal sensitivity, and keratoconjunctivitis sicca (dry eye).
Diabetic nephropathy, a kidney problem, occurs in 40 percent of human patients and takes many years to develop. The percentage of canine patients with diabetic nephropathy is unknown (it’s more common in cats), but its earliest sign is hyperalbuminuria (high albumin levels in urine) followed by an increase in the urine protein-to-creatinine (UPC) ratio and hypertension (high blood pressure), which may contribute to kidney damage. Early changes may be reversed if blood sugar levels improve.
Infections – especially urinary tract infections (UTIs) – are common among dogs with diabetes because sugar in urine makes the bladder an ideal incubator for bacteria. In one study, half of the diabetic dogs tested had occult or hidden urinary tract infections that were not detected by urinalysis. The possibility of UTIs in dogs with diabetes is so great that their urine should be cultured periodically to detect infections. A long course of antibiotics (lasting six to eight weeks) can be administered if needed. Follow-up cultures and frequent retesting are recommended.
Dogs with diabetes are also susceptible to infections of the mouth and gums. Diabetic pets should have their teeth checked regularly and cleaned if necessary. Dental tartar seeds the body with bacteria, and when blood sugar levels run high, infections in important organs can take root. The kidneys and heart are particularly vulnerable. Brushing your dog’s teeth daily or at least twice a week helps to prevent and detect early signs of dental disease.
Liver (hepatic) disease is another common problem, resulting from altered fat metabolism caused by diabetes. In one survey of 221 dogs with diabetes, over 70 percent had elevated liver enzymes. Ultrasound tests and biopsies help differentiate between primary hepatic disease and secondary complications of diabetes.
Hyperadrenocorticism, or Cushing’s disease, is another complication. In one study, 23 percent of dogs with diabetes tested positive for Cushing’s. Most canine patients with both disorders develop Cushing’s disease before the onset of diabetes. About 10 percent of dogs with Cushing’s are also diabetic.
Hypothyroidism (an underactive thyroid) may coincide with diabetes. In the study mentioned above, 9 percent of diabetic canines were hypothyroid. While the glucose intolerance caused by hypothyroidism could lead to the development of diabetes, it’s unlikely to be a major factor because the two don’t often occur together. However, thyroid hormone deficiency can result in insulin resistance, complicating glycemic control. Thyroid hormone replacement should be instituted gradually in dogs with diabetes since their insulin requirements will decrease and, without dosage adjustments, severe hypoglycemia may occur.
It makes sense to test diabetic dogs for hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism, but only after their diabetes is controlled. Otherwise, the diabetes will affect test results.
Hyperlipidemia usually improves as blood sugar levels are controlled. Persistently elevated triglycerides may be linked to Cushing’s disease and can increase the risk of developing acute pancreatitis. Reducing fat in the diet can help to lower triglyceride levels. Elevated cholesterol is often linked to hypothyroidism.
Insulin resistance can be caused by hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, infections, pancreatitis, drug therapy (corticosteroids), obesity, acromegaly, estrus (heat cycle), and anti-insulin antibodies. Insulin resistance should be investigated in patients who need doses of 1 unit or more of insulin per pound of body weight.
The Life Expectancy of Dogs with Diabetes
The life expectancy of a diabetic dog can be the same as a healthy dog’s with proper care. With proper treatment, diabetic dogs have survival rates very similar to those of non-diabetic dogs of the same age and gender, though their risk is greatest during the first six months of treatment, when insulin therapy is introduced and glucose levels are being regulated. Diabetic dogs are more likely to die of kidney disease, infections, or liver/pancreatic disorders than of diabetes itself. But once their condition stabilizes, diabetic dogs can lead happy, healthy lives.
Consider Buster, a 13-year-old Maltese belonging to Mary Butler in Northern California. Buster was diagnosed with diabetes three years ago after suddenly going blind due to cataracts.
“He had lens implants within a month and has had perfect vision ever since,” says Butler. “My little guy has been stable ever since his diagnosis. He has lots of energy, his coat is thick and shiny, his stools are formed and regular, and his teeth sparkle. I do brush his teeth three times a week, which I am sure helps.”
Dog Diabetes Treatment
What Kind of Insulin is Best for Diabetic Dogs?
Your veterinarian is your best advisor when it comes to medication. There are many different insulin products, and individual responses vary. Finding the right insulin for your dog may require experimentation.
Insulin varies in terms of onset, peak, and duration of action. Most dogs do well with intermediate-acting insulin, such as Humulin N, though some do better with long-acting insulin or mixtures that combine different types. It’s important to use only fresh insulin, switching to a new bottle every 6 to 8 weeks, and to use the correct syringe, which will vary depending on the type of insulin.
Alise Shatoff of San Diego, California, adopted her dog Gryffin five years ago at age four, when he was surrendered after developing diabetes. She feeds a commercial raw diet and says, “We have found that Gryffin does best on Humulin N. This one works really well for dogs on a raw diet. Gryffin has been nice and stable on the Humulin N for four years now.”
Porcine (derived from pigs) and recombinant human insulin most closely resemble insulin produced by dogs, so they usually work best. Although beef insulin was successfully used before the advent of other choices, it is no longer recommended for dogs because it may result in the production of anti-insulin antibodies, leading to poor glucose control.
Diane Di Salvo of Madison, Wisconsin, whose dog, Scout, developed diabetes two years ago, notes that, “Walmart sells Humulin insulin for way less than vets and other pharmacies. It is the exact same insulin that Eli Lilly makes for all pharmacies, but it is packaged for Walmart under their ReliOn brand.”
Insulin is typically administered twice a day, immediately before or after a meal. Feeding just before giving insulin may be safer, to be sure that the dog eats, because without food the insulin’s effect would be dangerous. Assuming your dog is a chow hound, feeding her after administering insulin can be a reward for submitting to the injection.
However, most dogs don’t mind the injections, which are done with very thin needles. Carol Albert of Kensington, Maryland, has a Cardigan Welsh Corgi, Henry, who developed diabetes four years ago. “Henry gets insulin shots twice daily after meals,” says Albert. “He knows he will get a treat after the injection so he comes looking for me after he eats to get his shot.”
It is important to give insulin injections properly. One of the most common reasons for problems in achieving regulation is that the owner doesn’t inject the dog correctly. If possible, have your veterinarian observe you giving insulin to your dog.
When a dog is first diagnosed, frequent monitoring, such as every one to two weeks, may be required until the patient is stable and doing well. After that, monitoring every three to six months (veterinary exam, blood test, urinalysis, and urine culture) is recommended.
Measuring fructosamine (glycated serum protein) is a helpful way to monitor glucose control. If it’s not possible to run glucose curves, this test would be the next best option. Blood glucose fluctuations leave a metabolic mark that lasts a week or two, and fructosamine reflects the average blood glucose over that time span. Because fructosamine looks at averages, it will not distinguish excellent control from wide swings of high to low glucose readings, but even with this limitation, fructosamine is worth including in periodic monitoring tests.
Ketones are water-soluble compounds produced as by-products when fatty acids are broken down for energy in the liver and kidneys. Dangerously high levels of ketones, called ketoacidosis, can lead to diabetic coma or death. Symptoms include nausea, lack of appetite, and lethargy. Ketoacidosis is often linked to concurrent pancreatitis, urinary tract infection, Cushing’s disease, or other types of infection or inflammation.
Ketostix are used to detect ketones in urine and can be obtained at any pharmacy. Finding ketones occasionally is not a problem, but a positive dipstick three days in a row requires a veterinary visit.
Food for Diabetic Dogs: Choosing the Best Diabetic Dog Food
In humans and felines with type 2 diabetes, diet is a major component of the illness’s cause and treatment. Because the culprits are carbohydrates and obesity, weight loss and a high-protein, low-carb diet are sometimes all the treatment that is needed.
But for dogs with type 1 diabetes, there is no single recommended diet. The most important factor is that the dog likes the food and eats it willingly. Most diabetic dogs can be well managed with an adult maintenance diet. A prescription diet is not required. If the dog has another illness, feed a diet appropriate for that illness.
Try to feed the same amount of the same type of food at the same time each day, ideally in two meals 12 hours apart. Any change in carbohydrates will affect the amount of insulin needed. Some dogs may need a snack between meals to keep glucose levels from falling too low.
Fiber and carbohydrates are controversial topics in diabetes treatment, and recommendations are changing. Only a few nutritional studies have been done on dogs with diabetes. Different dogs respond differently to varying amounts of fiber and carbohydrates, and dietary needs vary depending on whether a dog is underweight or overweight, so there is no best dog food for diabetic dogs.
Diabetic dogs may not need a low-fat diet unless they have concurrent pancreatitis, Cushing’s disease, elevated triglycerides, elevated cholesterol, or lipemia (fatty blood). However, since the majority of diabetic dogs do have one or more of these concurrent diseases, and since pancreatitis can occur at any time (and chronic pancreatitis may cause problems before it is diagnosed), the majority of diabetic dogs will do better on a diet that is moderately low in fat. To be safe, avoid feeding high-fat diets.
The amount of protein in the diet should be normal or increased, especially for overweight dogs and for underweight dogs with muscle wasting or EPI. Protein should be increased when fat is decreased, to avoid feeding too many carbohydrates.
Carbohydrate Levels in Diabetic Dog Food
Carbohydrates are responsible for the greatest changes in postprandial (after-eating) blood sugar levels. There is a strong association between the insulin dosage requirement and the carbohydrate content of the meal, regardless of carbohydrate source or type. Keeping the amount of carbohydrates in the diet steady is the best way to keep insulin needs stable.
The glycemic index measures the effects of carbohydrates in food on blood sugar levels. It estimates how much each gram of available carbohydrate (total carbohydrate minus fiber) in a food raises blood glucose level following consumption of the food, relative to consumption of glucose. Glycemic index charts that list hundreds of human foods are widely published.
Low-glycemic foods release glucose slowly and steadily, while high-glycemic foods can cause a more rapid rise in blood glucose levels. Low-glycemic foods include most fruits and vegetables, legumes, some whole grains, and fructose. Medium-glycemic foods include whole wheat products, brown rice, sweet potatoes, potatoes, sugar (sucrose), and honey. High-glycemic foods include white rice, white or wheat bread, and glucose.
Simple carbohydrates (sugars, such as corn syrup or propylene glycol, which is found in semi-moist foods) should be avoided, as they cause rapid glucose spikes.
Complex carbohydrates (starches) are digested more slowly so that the rise in glucose is spread out and there are no quick spikes. Processing can affect how quickly carbohydrates are digested.
Carbohydrates are digested faster than fats and proteins, and they have the most effect on postprandial glycemic response and insulin needs. Depending on when the insulin effect peaks, it may be important to include a certain amount of carbohydrates in meals so that the peak effect of injected insulin will coincide with the rise in glucose and not contribute to hypoglycemia.
Highly digestible diets designed for dogs with sensitive stomachs can contribute to higher blood glucose levels after eating, which is not the best thing for a diabetic dog.
Dietary fiber or roughage is the indigestible portion of plant foods. Fiber slows gastric emptying and the digestion of carbohydrates, which also slows the release of glucose, blunting its postprandial rise (blood sugar increases less after meals). Diabetic dogs do not necessarily need more fiber than healthy dogs, and most do well with moderate amounts of fiber. Dogs with poor glycemic control may benefit from increased fiber, but some diabetic dogs do better with less.
There are two types of fiber. Soluble (also called viscous) fiber ferments in the colon, creating gases. Insoluble fiber is metabolically inert, absorbing water as it moves through the digestive tract. Unlike soluble fiber, insoluble fiber does not produce intestinal gas.
Examples of soluble fiber include fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS), pectins, guar gum, lactulose, and psyllium. Most soluble fiber, with the exception of psyllium, is also fermentable. Beet pulp provides mixed soluble and insoluble, moderately fermentable fiber.
Prebiotics are fibers that are both soluble and fermentable. Prebiotics feed probiotics, the beneficial bacteria that live in the digestive tract and make up an important part of the body’s immune defenses. As it ferments, soluble fiber also produces beneficial short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs).
Too much soluble fiber can cause diarrhea and gas, and can actually speed postprandial glucose absorption. Gas is most likely to develop when the fiber is first introduced or when the dose is suddenly increased. To help prevent this side effect, start with small doses and increase gradually.
Insoluble fiber, such as cellulose and bran, regulates intestinal transit time, speeding it during constipation and slowing it during diarrhea. Insoluble fiber increases stool volume, is generally well tolerated even in high doses, and may help with glucose control.
However, in large quantities, insoluble fiber can decrease the diet’s nutrient value by binding minerals. Other side effects associated with diets high in insoluble fiber include weight loss, a lack of interest in food, poor coat quality, vomiting, voluminous feces, flatulence, diarrhea, and constipation. Increased fiber is not recommended for underweight dogs, dogs who refuse to eat because of the fiber’s taste or texture, or dogs who experience adverse side effects.
It is important to provide ample fluids when adding fiber because they pull water from the body, which can lead to constipation and other problems if fluid intake is insufficient.
Examples of products that contain soluble fiber include Benefiber (wheat dextrin) and Hydrocil (psyllium). Citrucel is an example of a product that contains insoluble fiber (methylcellulose).
General Guidelines for Managing Diabetes in Dogs
The amount of starch in the diet is not as important as making sure it’s consistent and properly balanced with insulin. Dogs fed diets containing more starch may need more insulin or a different type of insulin than dogs fed a low-carb diet.
Limiting carbohydrates may reduce postprandial hyperglycemia (high blood sugar), but if the dog continues to have wide glucose level swings throughout the day on a low-carb diet, he might do better with more carbohydrates. If dietary protein is reduced for any reason, carbohydrates will usually increase, especially if fat is restricted. Dogs with gestational diabetes may benefit from a diet that is high in protein with restricted carbohydrates and fats, as long as their nutritional needs are met.
If a thin dog fails to gain weight once there is good glycemic control and the food intake is adequate (and not too high in fiber), concurrent EPI may be interfering with digestion. Overweight dogs who fail to lose weight once their diabetes is controlled may be getting too much insulin.
“We know that in both dogs and cats, obesity in general is a problem,” says David Bruyette, DVM, DACVIM, medical director at VCA West Lost Angeles Medical Hospital, “and obese dogs and cats tend to be resistant to the effects of insulin, so we want to have animals at an ideal body weight. If they are too heavy, they can develop insulin resistance, and if they are too thin, they can develop ketoacidosis.”
The most important factor is that your dog likes his food and eats it willingly every time.
Most diabetic dogs can eat a typical moderate-fiber maintenance diet. They don’t need a high-fiber prescription food.
It is fine to feed a high-protein diet, but that is not a requirement.
The diet must be consistent, particularly in the amount of carbohydrates, and should be fed in the same quantities at the same time each day.
Not every diabetic dog requires a low-fat diet, but because of the disease’s strong links to pancreatitis and other fat disorders, a diet moderately low in fat may be safest, even for dogs who have not been diagnosed with pancreatitis, Cushing’s disease, or hyperlipidemia.
Exercise and Activity for Diabetic Dogs
Exercise has a dramatic effect on blood sugar levels. In humans with type 2 diabetes, exercise reduces blood sugar so effectively that patients who walk or jog reduce their need for added insulin.
But for those with type 1 diabetes, including dogs, exercise can be both a blessing and a complication. Exercise can reduce insulin resistance in obese diabetics, but too much exercise can lead to hypoglycemia.
Exercise should be consistent in terms of the type of activity and time of day, avoiding intermittent or unplanned strenuous exercise. One good approach is to exercise the dog for 20 to 30 minutes before the evening meal and its administration of insulin. Additional exercise can be added to the day’s activities if the insulin dose is adjusted. For example, if a strenuous hike is planned, the morning insulin might be skipped or only half of the usual insulin administered in order to avoid exercise-induced hypoglycemia.
Choosing the Right Diabetes Supplements for Your Dog
Some supplements may help your diabetic dog while others should be added with caution or not at all. Anything that helps lower blood glucose levels may change insulin needs.
When using human supplements, give the full human dose to large dogs, half that much to medium-sized dogs, and ¼ the adult human dose to small dogs. Tiny dogs require even smaller doses.
L-Carnitine, a conditionally essential amino acid, plays a pivotal role in fatty acid metabolism. It may help control diabetes, improve fat metabolism, maintain lean body mass, and protect muscles from catabolism during weight loss. As little as 50 milligrams per kilogram (2.2 pounds) of dry food may make a beneficial difference. Note that beef is a particularly good source of l‑carnitine, with about 80 mg per 3-ounce portion.
Chromium supplements are often recommended for human diabetes patients (especially those with type 2 diabetes), but don’t seem to benefit a dog’s type 1 diabetes. This supplement is recommended only for dogs with a chromium deficiency.
Zinc is an important mineral for diabetic patients, but it’s toxic to dogs if too much is given. Supplementation should be limited to a standard human or canine vitamin-mineral supplement daily.
The omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA may help to reduce blood lipid levels (hyperlipidemia) and inflammation as well as regulate the immune system. Human studies show, however, that too much may reduce glycemic control in some patients. EPA and DHA are found in fish, most fish oils, and some algae supplements. An appropriate dose might be 300 mg combined EPA and DHA per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight daily (or per 10 pounds of body weight for hyperlipidemia or kidney disease), preferably split between meals.
Probiotics and cranberry extract can help to prevent urinary tract infections. D-mannose works the same way as cranberry, by preventing bacteria from adhering to the bladder wall, but it is a sugar and some research has found that it may make blood sugar levels harder to control in humans with diabetes.
Digestive enzymes may be helpful for some dogs, particularly those who have had pancreatitis (dogs with EPI need prescription-strength enzymes).
Some products affect blood sugar levels and so should be avoided or used with caution. Licorice can elevate blood sugar, while devil’s claw, ginger, and marshmallow can lower it. Amitraz, the active ingredient in Preventic collars, Certifect (new flea and tick control product), and Mitaban (used to treat demodex), can cause elevated blood sugar and should not be used in diabetic dogs.
Glucosamine, on the other hand, should be safe for diabetic dogs. Early research suggested it might raise blood sugar, but more recent and reliable studies refuted those findings. Monitor blood sugar levels after starting to be sure.
The Best Treats for Diabetic Dogs
Between-meal treats are important, whether they’re training tools, blood sugar stabilizers, afternoon snacks, or rewards for submitting to blood tests and insulin injections.
Avoid treats that are high in carbohydrates or sugar, including all semi-moist commercial foods and treats that use propylene glycol or similar ingredients.
Dehydrated meats make excellent treats, but be sure to avoid those made in China. Chicken jerky treats (also called tenders or strips) manufactured in China have been linked to kidney failure in dogs. Check package labels carefully.
Because dried meat or poultry treats made in the U.S. can be expensive, many pet owners make their own. Simply cut meat or poultry into thin slices for drying in a food dehydrator or baking in a slow oven (250 to 300 degrees F) until they reach your dog’s preferred state of crunchiness.
Other safe between-meal diabetic dog treats include green beans – raw, cooked, canned, or frozen – or fresh, crunchy snap peas or carrot sticks; sardines or tuna packed in water; small amounts of canned pumpkin (plain, not the pie mix); freeze-dried liver; dried salmon; hard-boiled eggs; cheese (be careful of too much fat); bully sticks; dried beef tendons; chicken feet; and most low-carb treats formulated for dogs or cats.
Don’t Be Overwhelmed by the Diagnosis
Caring for a dog with diabetes can be time-consuming, expensive, and stressful. In fact, the initial diagnosis can be overwhelming.
According to Dr. Bruyette, “Several studies have shown that euthanasia is a common cause of death in diabetic dogs and cats mainly as a result of the owners’ concerns, real or perceived, regarding the care of pets with diabetes. It is very important that we emphasize to pet owners that while diabetes is a chronic disease, it can be well controlled with minimal disruption of their lives while maintaining their pet’s quality of life.”
Sheila Laing of Lansing, Michigan, cared for her Lab/Shepherd-mix, Zachary, for four years after he was diagnosed with diabetes at age 11. “Zachy was my soulmate and my teacher,” she says. “I am so lucky that I was able to help him lead a healthy normal life in his senior years in spite of the diabetes. People need to know that diabetes doesn’t have to be a death sentence. It can be managed!”
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It’s one of the oldest excuses known to man, perhaps even pre-dating man’s willingness to share a home with dogs. But every once in a while it’s true: The dog DID eat something critical.
Seattle resident Russ Berkman came home from work one day and found some tiny scraps of paper and elastic on the floor. A minute’s worth of detective work confirmed that the scraps were all that was left of four tickets to the 2012 Masters (golf) Tournament in Augusta, Georgia – and that the culprit was his Swiss Mountain Dog, Sierra.
After what was sure to be at least a few minutes of mourning the loss of the tickets – which he bought after winning the opportunity to do so in a ticket lottery Berkman called his girlfriend to tell her that their trip to Georgia was off. She was the one who suggested administering a bit of hydrogen peroxide to Sierra, in hopes that the dog would vomit the tickets up. With at least $1,200 worth of once-in-a-lifetime tickets at stake, Berkman gave it a try. And Sierra did vomit up a glob of paper pulp.
Well, once you’ve gone that far, you have to finish the project. Berkman carefully rinsed the scraps he found in the pile of vomit, and laid the pieces out on paper towels, reconstructing the tickets like a puzzle. It took him, he said, “about three cocktails” worth of time. About 30 percent of the tickets were lost to Sierra’s digestion, but there was enough of the tickets left to convince the Augusta National Golf Club ticket office that Berkman did, in fact, have enough of the tickets in his possession to ensure that he had, in fact, a legitimate excuse to require the printing of a replacement set of tickets.
Photos of the dog, the vomit, and the reconstructed tickets can be found on the Website of sports talk radio station KJR, which interviewed Berkman on the air.
In our age of modern medicine, when illnesses are treated in high-tech hospitals with laser surgery and powerful prescription drugs, it is easy to forget that until the 20th century, plants were the medicines that kept people and their companion animals well. In fact, most of the prescription drugs in use today were derived and synthesized from plants, and outside of Canada and the United States, plants remain the world’s primary healing agents.
The surgical techniques and pharmaceutical drugs that define Western medicine work well in acute or crisis conditions, but they are far less successful in the treatment of chronic illnesses. This is because Western medicine as practiced by physicians and veterinarians is allopathic, which means that its focus is the alleviation of physical symptoms, not finding and treating the cause. Chronic conditions like arthritis, skin and coat problems, gingivitis, ear infections, asthma and allergies may improve temporarily when symptoms are masked, but they usually recur and, over time, grow worse. For this reason, conventional or orthodox medicine considers these conditions irreversible and incurable. In addition, drugs and surgery carry hidden costs in adverse side effects that range from negligible to fatal.
The advantage of natural remedies is that they often work as well as or better than conventional treatments, have fewer side effects and address the cause of a condition, resulting in its improvement or cure. It is because of allopathic medicine’s limitations that so many Americans have begun to explore more natural approaches to health and healing. This is not to say that natural therapies are successful in treating every condition in every person or pet, but they offer a first line of defense in the prevention of problems and, when an illness is well-established, they can help speed healing.
By far, the world’s most widely used natural therapy is herbal medicine. Every culture on every continent has experimented with local plants and developed a tradition of diagnosis and use, a repertoire based on experience and observation.
Excerpted from long-time Whole Dog Journal contributor CJ Puotinen’s incredible resource, The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care. This 500+ page volume is everything you need to know to ensure good health and long life for your dog.
If you woke up in the middle of the night and your house was on fire, could you escape with your dogs? I read this linked news story and have to admire the man who thought quickly and was able to throw a mattress out his bedroom window – on the second story of his home – and then throw his dog, a hefty-looking adult Labrador, onto the mattress. Only then did he jump onto the mattress to escape. Both man and dog suffered some soreness but were otherwise okay.
If I had to make an escape through my bedroom window – assuming the rest of the house was on fire and Otto alerted me to the flames — I don’t know whether I *could* heave Otto up to my windowsill and push him out. (At least we live in a ground-floor house and I wouldn’t have to do the mattress thing – although maybe we should relocate those cacti that are under the window.) Otto is good at going up ramps, though; maybe I’ll stash a plank in the corner of the bedroom (I’m *sure* my husband won’t mind) and practice this with Otto from time to time.
In northern California where I live, fires and earthquakes are the biggest environmental threat to our safety. But those of you who live in tornado- or flood-prone areas have even greater challenges in case of natural disaster. Do you have a disaster evacuation plan for yourself and your family (human, canine, and feline)?
During resource-guarding, dogs exhibit components of ritualized aggression. That is, they have a fairly explicit hierarchy of warnings – accelerated eating, cessation of eating or “freezing up,” glassy/hard eyes, growling, lip lifting, snapping, biting – that they’ll run through to get a competitor (YOU!) to back away from what they have. They’re nervous that you’re there and don’t want to share.
Trainers and behaviorists take these warnings and apply a rating scale, ranging from reactions that pose no risk to humans to those that are extremely serious. A rough eight-level guide is useful for owners and trainers to assess the situation but some dogs don’t follow such a neat hierarchal scale. A dog can move from a growl to a serious bite in a matter of seconds.
Trainers often hear the cry, “he bit without warning!” More often than not, there was a warning, somewhere, sometime – we just missed it.
For more advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Resource Guarding.
Last week’s blog post was about the Australian Cattle Dog-mix pup I was fostering, and the effect he’s apparently had on Otto, my usually perfectly behaved dog. Otto usually mentors and guides my foster dogs and puppies, and is generally an endless font of patience and good humor. But this puppy – and I use the term loosely, because he’s somewhere between 10 months and a year old, but still possessed of many puppy-like qualities – this puppy had seemingly inspired Otto to misbehave in all sorts of odd ways. He chewed up some shoes, repeatedly dug a trench around a favorite orange tree in my yard, kept getting caught chasing the cats – and on one notable occasion, for the first time in his life, took off after a deer when we were out on a walk in a local wildlife area and didn’t “leave it” or immediately come back when I called him. He’s scared up many a deer or jackrabbit on our hikes (as well as feral cats and one time, a skunk, on our walks along the river that runs through our town), but since his first few months with us as an adolescent youngster himself, hasn’t given chase for more than a few dozen yards before responding to my calls of “Otto,off! Otto, HERE!” Given that we live in a relatively wildlife-rich area, in those early days, we worked on that “emergency recall” several times a day for MONTHS, and I’ve always regarded it as rock-solid. It was, until Diamond the foster-pup arrived.
Right after I wrote that blog post and sent it to our publishing headquarters for the tech guys to post it, I had a cup of coffee and thought again about the whole issue of Otto’s sudden malfeasance. And it hit me like a bolt of lightning: DUH – he’s stressed! This puppy has just really pushed his stress buttons, and all these ways he’s misbehaving are a result of his increased stress levels! Poor Otto!
A number of different authors have written about stress and its effects on dogs for WDJ; I’ve counseled dozens of friends about the signs of stress their dogs exhibited; and I just didn’t recognize it in my own dog. Granted, he hasn’t been walking around yawning or panting or looking in any way different than he usually does. But I should have seen that his misbehaviors were signs of stress in themselves.
What’s so stressful? Mainly, the pup – a teenager, really – has a really annoying way of fawning all over Otto. He constantly jumps up and licks at Otto’s lips like a very young, deferent puppy, and “does the worm” alongside Otto – wriggling wildly along the ground with his tail wagging wildly. A friend of mine used to use the expression “writhing and flopping” – this describes Diamond perfectly, at least, when he’s near Otto. He more or less ignores Tito the Chihuahua.
Now that I’m looking for it, I see that the effect of this exaggerated behavior does seem to wear on Otto. He’s ordinarily very patient with puppies, if not exactly warm and fuzzy with them. But Diamond gets on his nerves, and he frequently growls and snaps at Diamond (albeit with his tail wagging and seemingly without totally losing his temper). He never hurts Diamond, but it seems like he’s saying, “Seriously, dude, get OFF of me! Leave me ALONE!”
My son watched the two dogs together for about five minutes and commented, “Diamond is aggressively submissive.” It’s an apt description. I’m going to have to consult some behaviorists. Is that a thing?
Well, tests have confirmed that the stress of this relationship was definitely responsible for Otto’s misbehaviors. Last Monday, the foster went off to a prospective home for three days. Otto was absolutely his former self. No chewing, no cat-chasing, no digging, perfect recall. I mentally chastised myself for not “getting it” sooner, and apologized to Otto for taking him and his role in my foster-dog program for granted.
Then the puppy got returned (the young, idealistic girl who fell in love with his picture realized she didn’t have as much time as she needed to work on the formerly feral puppy’s many issues). Now I’m taking care to give Otto some time apart from Diamond every day. For at least a few hours, I let him stay home with my husband while I go to the office with Diamond and Tito. I give Otto some indoor time when Diamond is outside and vice versa. And when a friend came to visit with her dog over the weekend, we took Otto and her dog for a long hike without the annoying puppy, twice. On the first walk, I carried super high-value treats and a long line, in case I needed to go back to square one with Otto’s recall. We kept the dogs very close to us on the trail with frequent recalls and bits of heeling, and rewarded them richly for “checking in” (turning around and looking at us when they got more than a few dozen yards ahead on the trail). I relaxed a bit on the second day, letting Otto get farther ahead or behind on the trail — and when he did see and start to chase a rabbit, and I called “Otto, Off! Otto, HERE!”, he *immediately* left the chase and raced back to me, tail high and eyes sparkling, his old self again.
I hope to place Diamond in a good home as soon as possible, but in the meantime, I’ll be paying more attention to Otto’s mental health, too. Sorry, Otto, and thanks again.
Counter-conditioning involves changing your dog’s association with a scary or arousing stimulus from negative to positive. Desensitization is starting with a very low-level intensity of aversive stimulus until the dog habituates to (or changes his association with) the aversive, and then gradually increasing the strength until the dog is comfortable with the stimulus at full intensity. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association and to help them become comfortable with a stimulus is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken – canned, baked, or boiled; most dogs love chicken. Here’s how the CC&D process works.
1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of another dog and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the threshold distance.
2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present a neutral dog at threshold distance X. (Alternatively, station yourself and your dog at a location where people pass by with their dogs on leash at threshold distance X.) The instant your dog sees the other dog, start feeding bits of chicken, non-stop.
3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the dog, and stop feeding chicken to your dog.
4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation of the dog at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER) – your dog’s association with the other dog at threshold distance X is now positive instead of negative.
5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the other-dog stimulus. You can do that by decreasing distance by several inches; by increasing the amount of time the neutral dog stays in sight; by increasing movement of the other dog at distance X; by increasing the number of dogs (two or three dogs, instead of one); or increasing the visual “threat” (a large dog instead of a small one, or allowing the neutral dog to make brief eye contact). I’d suggest decreasing distance first in small increments by moving the reactive dog closer to the location where the neutral dog will appear, achieving the CER at each new distance.
6. Then return to distance X and add intensity of the neutral dog, gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the neutral dog reasonably close.
7. Now, back to distance X, increase intensity again, by having your helper move more quickly with the neutral dog, have the dog do more vigorous behaviors – roll over, catch a ball, etc.
8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually increase the length of time you have your dog in the presence of the increased-intensity neutral dog, until he’s happy (but not aroused) to have it present continuously.
9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to the stimulus, obtaining the CER consistently at each new distance.
10. When your dog is happy to have the higher intensity neutral dog stimulus close to him, you’re ready for the final phase. Return to distance X and obtain your CER there, with a full intensity neutral dog – zigzagging toward him, then approaching head-on. Gradually decrease distance until your dog is happy to be in the presence of other dog, regardless of that dog’s behavior. He now thinks the other dog is a very good thing, as a reliable predictor of very yummy treats.
The more intense the reactive dog’s response, the more challenging the behavior is to modify. A fear response is more challenging to modify than an excitement response. True anxieties and phobias generally require a greater commitment to a longer term and more in-depth modification program than less intense fear-based behaviors (see “How an Intense Behavior Modification Program Saved One Puppy’s Life”).
With your dog sitting at your side, hold her food bowl at chest level, and tell her to “wait.” Move the bowl (with food it in, topped with tasty treats) toward the floor 4 to 6 inches. If your dog stays sitting, click your clicker and feed her a treat from the bowl. If your dog gets up, say “Oops!” and ask her to sit again. If she remains sitting, lower the bowl 4 to 6 inches again, click and treat.
Repeat this step several times until she consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl. Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with succeeding repetitions until you can place it on the floor without your dog trying to get up or eat it. Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell her to eat. After she has had a few bites, lift the bowl up and try again, lowering the bowl a little farther this time. Repeat these steps until you can place the bowl on the floor in one motion and she doesn’t move until you tell her she can.
Generalize the “Wait” to other training scenarios by controlling the delivery of the reinforcer. For example, for “wait at the door,” have your dog sit and wait while you move your hand toward the door a few inches, click and treat. If she gets up, say Oops!” and have her sit again while you move your hand toward the door one inch. Click and treat. Gradually move your hand closer toward the doorknob, then jiggle the doorknob, then open the door a crack, then wider and wider until you can open the door without her getting up. If she gets up while you are opening the door, say “Oops!”, close the door, and try again. When she will wait with the door wide open, you can sometimes release her to go out the door, and sometimes go out the door without her.
This protocol was used with great success to reduce a challenging puppy’s biting and to increase his tolerance for restraint (see the referring article, “How an Intense Behavior Modification Program Saved One Puppy’s Life“). It can be used to help highly fearful or feral dogs learn to accept and enjoy human contact, too.
1. Touch dog’s shoulder with one hand, feed treat with other hand, remove both hands.
2. Repeat multiple times until touch to the shoulder elicits an automatic look for the other hand to arrive with treat.
It’s amazing how quickly high-value treats can transform a frightened dog’s attitude about touch or restraint.
3. Move touch process to various other parts of dog’s head and body until a touch anywhere on the dog elicits an auto-look for the delivery of a treat. Pay extra attention to any body part where your touch seems to elicit a more intense response from the dog.
4. Start over again at the dog’s shoulder, gradually increasing the duration of touch up to five seconds, feeding bits of treat the entire time. Repeat multiple times, gradually reducing the frequency of treat feeding during the five-second touch.
5. Move the five-second touch process to various other parts of the dog’s body, gradually reducing the frequency of treat feeding at each new touch location.
6. Return to dog’s shoulder, gradually increasing restraint pressure during five-second touch, feeding bits of treat the entire time. Repeat multiple times, gradually reducing the frequency of treat feeding during the five-second touch.
Within just a few repetitions of brief touch followed by treats, this recently feral dog is beginning to relax.
7. Continuing at the dog’s shoulder, gradually increase restraint pressure to ten seconds, feeding bits of treats as necessary to maintain positive association with touch and restraint, and to prevent any mouthing behavior.
8. Move the five-second restraint process to various other parts of the dog’s body, gradually reducing treat-feeding frequency at each new touch location.
9. Gradually increase restraint pressure to 10 seconds at various body part locations, feeding bits of treats as necessary.
10. Randomize touch, restraint, and duration, touching various places in succession, gradually increasing maximum duration of restraint, always feeding bits of treats as necessary to maintain positive association with touch and restraint.
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
