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Dog Paw and Claw Problems

Unhealthy dog paws can cause excessive licking as well as a variety of other problems.
: If your dog is chewing or licking his paw, inspect the dog’s nails and his paw to figure out why. If you find a problem, early treatment is best. Credit: Cavan Images | Getty Images

Proper care of your dog’s nails and following treatment instructions for any injuries can help keep your dog on the run and allow problems to heal faster. If you and your dog participate in dog sports requiring speed, injuries are more likely, and 19% of those injuries occur in the paw or claw.

Some dog paw problems focus around the dog’s nails, or claws. Note: A dog’s nails are technically “claws” because they are pointed, curved, and grow out of the end of an appendage. Nails are flatter and more rounded and grow over the end of the appendage. We will use both terms in this piece, however, because “dog nails” is the more common term.

Unhealthy Dog Nails

Regular trimming of your dog’s nails can prevent some problems and promote normal body stance and movement.

  • Overgrown claws. If your dog’s claws are too long, they change the way he stands and walks. Ideally, your dog’s nails should be short and close to the paw, so that they can be used to grip when needed but don’t get in the way the rest of the time. Some dogs wear their claws down naturally, but many require weekly nail trims to obtain ideal nail length.
  • Broken claws. If your dog catches her nail on something, it can break. If the break occurs in the keratinized portion of the claw, it will not hurt. But if it affects the “quick,” which has blood vessels and nerves in it, it will both hurt and bleed. Broken claws are more likely to occur if your dog has long claws that are not trimmed regularly. In some cases, you may be able to trim the broken claw yourself, but if it is bleeding or painful you may need a veterinary appointment for removal under sedation.
  • Ingrown claws. Untrimmed claws continue to grow and may eventually curl under and into the paw. This is painful, and the resulting wound is susceptible to infection. If your dog’s nails tend to curl (we’re looking at you, Pugs and Beagles), keep on top of regular nail trims. An ingrown claw will require a vet appointment to potentially trim the nail and clean the wound under sedation, plus prescribe antibiotics to resolve any infection that may be present.
  • Infected claws. Dog nails can become infected by yeast or bacteria. You may notice that your dog’s paws smell weird, and that the texture of the claws has changed. Infected nails may appear bloody, greasy, discolored, or feel soft when you try to trim them.
  • Symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy (SLO). This is an autoimmune disease that causes inflammation of the claw bed, which in turn leads to abnormal claws. Dogs with SLO often have sore, painful paws, and the claws frequently fall off and grow back with an abnormal shape or texture. This condition will require long-term medications and management to keep your dog comfortable.

Unhealthy Dog Paws

Claw problems aren’t the only things that may go wrong with your dog’s feet. Some potential dog-paw problems include:

  • Run off pads. Active dogs who like to run over hard surfaces such as asphalt, cement, rocks, or hard-packed dirt can damage the thick pads on the bottom of their paws. The friction between the paw and the ground causes the pad layer to separate from the sensitive underlying tissues. While this is not a dire situation, it is painful. Your dog will need to rest while the weak spots in the pad(s) heal and may need pain meds or antibiotics from your veterinarian.
  • Longhaired dogs seem to love to get things stuck in the hair between their toes, which can cause uncomfortable knots to develop. Carefully clip existing mats to relieve discomfort. Prevent future mats by keeping the hair on your dog’s feet trimmed.
  • Yeast and bacterial infections. Dog paws can be an ideal spot for microbial infections. Common signs include a characteristic “corn chip” odor, oozy or flakey skin on the paws, and licking or chewing. Your veterinarian will do a skin scrape to determine the cause of the infection and treat it with appropriate topical or systemic medications.
  • Dogs with allergies—especially environmental allergies—often get itchy feet. You will notice your dog constantly licking and chewing his paws, and the characteristic dark rusty staining of the hair from all the licking. Some dogs may feel better with just Benadryl, but many may need prescription meds such as Apoquel, Cytopoint, or allergy injections to quell the itch. Some dogs have seasonal allergies, while others experience symptoms year-round.
  • Paw lacerations. A cut paw hurts! Your dog will limp, and bleeding may seem excessive because of the many blood vessels in the paw. Initiate first aid by applying pressure to stop bleeding, then call your veterinarian to get the wound cleaned and some antibiotics.
  • Broken toes. Dogs can break their toes in many ways, even by getting a toe stuck in a crate door or by being stepped on. Most of these fractures can heal on their own with strict rest. If the bone heals poorly or continues to bother your dog, amputation may be the best choice. Dogs do fine with a missing toe or two.
  • Sarcoptic mange. The mites that cause sarcoptic mange like to live in dogs’ skin, and they cause an extreme itch along with red, irritated skin. Your vet can check for mange with the same skin scrape that checks for bacterial and fungal infections. Thankfully, sarcoptic mange can be treated with many of the same medications that we use to prevent fleas and ticks.
  • Keratin overgrowth. While most common in brachycephalic breeds such as Boxers or Bulldogs, some dogs have excessive growth of the hard keratin on their paw pads. Instead of being smooth with a slight cobblestone pattern, these dogs have long thin projections all over the paw pads. This condition is not usually painful but can impact how your dog walks. Excess keratin can be trimmed back by your veterinarian.
  • Interdigital furunculosis. This condition is most common in short-haired breeds such as Bulldogs and may be referred to as interdigital cysts, although the bumps are not true cysts. Interdigital furunculosis is when the hair follicles on the paw become inflamed, resulting in painful swelling on or between the toes. This condition is often related to allergies, and it can predispose the dog to deep bacterial infections in the paw that require long treatment courses with antibiotics.
  • Pemphigus foliaceus. This is an autoimmune disease that causes crusts, sores, and severe irritation on the paws. Dogs with pemphigus foliaceus may also have secondary yeast or bacterial infections, which make their paws even more uncomfortable. Your veterinarian will treat any infections directly and address the pemphigus with an immunosuppressive medication.
  • Squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma are two common cancers that can develop on dogs’ paws. If you notice a growth on your dog’s paw—especially if it is growing rapidly—schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible.

Bottom Line

Truly unhealthy dog paws and unhealthy dog claws are not common, but they can be painful. Set your dog up for success by trimming his claws regularly and checking his paws any time you notice lameness or excessive licking and chewing.

How To Entertain Your Dog at Home

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Knowing how to entertain your dog at home whether you're working or on a rainy is an important life skill.
Being together in the house usually isn’t enough to keep a dog entertained. Credit: AleksandarNakic | Getty Images

It can be a challenge to figure out what to do to keep a dog happy and engaged when you—and the dog—are stuck at home. For me, the thing that most often keeps me house-bound during the day is work. However, work hours mean very little to my young, extremely energetic dog. While I’m fixated on my computer screen, she’s hanging around getting bored. She’s learning the self-discipline to wait until it’s time to do something fun, but too much boredom ends with her getting frustrated and then finding some (usually undesirable) way to entertain herself.

We also live in an area that gets scorchingly hot during the summer. The pavement is often a burn hazard and, even with dog shoes, the temperature can make it unsafe for us to do much outdoors after about 10 a.m. Once again, this leads to sitting in the house with a bored dog who just want to do something fun. Fortunately, there are a lot of quick and relatively simple ways to entertain (and exercise) a dog without leaving the house.

How To Exercise Your Dog Indoors

Getting a good workout without being able to go outside isn’t always easy, but it can be done. If you live in an apartment building with hallways or a house with enough space, grab the leash and go on an indoor walk. It may feel silly, but being able to move will help keep your dog entertained. If possible, consider hiding treats or toys around the house for him to sniff out while you walk.

Exercises like puppy pushups are also a good option for burning off some excess energy without leaving the house. They can also be done in shorter sessions during work breaks. A popular training class exercise, puppy pushups are not only a physical workout but will help sharpen up basic cues as well. For those not already familiar, here are the steps to complete a puppy pushup:

  1. Make sure you have a reward on hand such as treats or a favorite toy.
  2. Cue your dog to sit.
  3. As soon as he sits, cue him to lay down.
  4. When his belly touches the floor, cue him to sit again.
  5. Cue a stand.
  6. Ask for one more sit.
  7. Reward and repeat.
  8. Bonus: For an added bit of fun, you can turn on some music and give the cues in time with the beat.

In addition to puppy pushups, I regularly set up obstacle courses around the house for my dog. I typically use plastic cones and bars to create low jumps and run agility tunnels down the hallway, but it doesn’t have to be that complicated. Even asking your dog to do figure-eights around a couple of chairs and crawl under a broom propped between the couch and coffee table can be good fun and good exercise. The trick with indoor obstacle courses is to build them with an eye toward safety. If your dog will be running or jumping inside, make sure he won’t encounter any slippery surfaces and isn’t in danger of crashing into anything if he jumps too enthusiastically or can’t slow down quickly.

As always with exercise, make sure your dog is physically capable of the activity before asking him to participate. If you aren’t sure your dog is up for a particular type of exercise, check with your veterinarian.

Games To Play With Your Dog In the House

Whether it’s a simple game of tug or a more elaborate round of find-it, playing with your dog is one of the best ways to keep them entertained when stuck in the house. There are so many good games to play with your dog indoors. Some of my favorites include:

  • Hide-and-seek: Sneak away when your dog isn’t looking, find a hiding spot, then call him enthusiastically. When he comes to find you, praise him and reward him with a treat or toy. If your dog hasn’t played before, pick easy hiding spots to start—such as stepping out of the room just beyond view. Gradually increase the difficulty as he begins to understand the game.
  • Find it: Start by hiding a treat in the palm of one hand, close both hands, and hold them out to your dog. When he noses the hand with the treat in it, praise him and let him have the treat. From there, make it more challenging by hiding a treat under a cup and letting him search for it among several similar cups.
  • Tug: While little explanation is needed for how to play—human and dog each grab one end of a toy and pull—there are few rules to keep the game from getting out of hand. Most importantly, tug is an ‘invitation only’ game. Your dog should understand that it’s only okay to tug on things when you initiate it. He should also have a solid ‘release’ cue and let go of the toy the moment you ask. As for health and safety considerations, tugging should always be done sideways, not up-and-down, to help prevent spinal injuries and should be kept gentle for puppies, elderly dogs, or those with relevant medical conditions. For more on how to safely set up a game of tug, see “Eight Rules for Playing Tug of War With Your Dog.”

Mental Stimulation Toys for Dogs

Interactive puzzle toys are a great way to provide some mental stimulation for your dog without leaving the house. While such toys often require supervision and assistance (particularly if the dog is inexperienced with puzzles), most dogs find a good mental workout to be rewarding—and exhausting! As discussed in “The Best Dog Puzzle Toys,” it may take a few tries with different toys to figure out the right difficulty level for your dog.

Similarly, snuffle mats, lick mats, and other food dispensing toys can very useful methods of doggy entertainment. My young terrier will happily spend up to 20 minutes engaged with her snuffle mat. If I have a meeting or just need some time without her “help” writing articles, I’ll set the mat out next to my desk and fill it with half a cup or so of her dry kibble. As a bonus, she often falls asleep after she’s done.

Don’t Forget About Training

Whether you are working from home or just stuck indoors with a bored dog, a few quick training sessions throughout the day can go a long way to entertaining your dog (and you!). A good session doesn’t need to be longer than 5 or 10 minutes to be effective. A short round of heelwork down the hallway or down-stays during lunch can make a big difference in both training progress and preventing boredom at home.

Online dog training classes are another way to keep engaged and discover new ways to work with your dog if leaving the house isn’t a good option. I spent the last heatwave teaching my dog to walk with me—her front feet on top of my feet—with the help of an online tricks class. It was great fun for us both and resulted in a really cute behavior.

As always when it comes to training, don’t forget to have fun! If the usual routine is feeling dull, consider teaching your dog a new trick.

Is Popcorn Bad for Dogs?

Popcorn isn't necessarily bad for dogs, but it's not good for them either.
While that popcorn looks yummy to your dog, it may not be the best choice for him. Credit: Vladans | Getty Images

While many dogs have grabbed a stray piece of popcorn and lived to tell the tale, not all popcorn is safe for dogs. If you want to share popcorn with your dog, choose a few pieces of plain—no flavors or salts—popcorn that is air-popped (put away that “fun to make” greasy Jiffy Pop!).

And, as we all know (but often prefer to ignore), most brands of popcorn include a lot of salt and fat. Your dog does not need salt or fat in his diet. And no caramel popcorn! That stuff is basically sugar- and butter-coated popcorn (humans probably shouldn’t eat it either!).

Do Not Overfeed Popcorn to Your Dog

Overfeeding popcorn can give your dog stomach upset and, if fed regularly, can contribute to weight gain and obesity. The kernels can become lodged in your dog’s teeth and irritate the gums (be sure you brush your dog’s teeth).

While popcorn has fiber, it’s not what your dog needs.  If your dog needs added fiber due to loose stools, plain canned pumpkin is a much better way to go.

What Is Safe Popcorn for Dogs?

The rules for sharing popcorn with your dog are simple:

  • Air-popped popcorn only
  • No seasonings, salt, or fat in the popcorn
  • Check the ingredients list for xylitol (also known as birch sugar), which is deadly to dogs
  • Feed only in moderation—a couple of pieces are plenty

Healthy Alternatives to Popcorn for Dogs

Many dogs just want to eat what we’re eating, and, while we’ve trained them (hopefully!) not to beg, those soft beautiful eyes can pull at our heartstrings. If you want to toss your dog a healthy treat while you munch on caramel popcorn, consider giving him a few apple slices, part of a carrot (baby carrots are a delight!), or a couple of frozen green beans. These are healthy treats for dogs.

For training your dog, be sure you reach for the high-value, extra yummy treats like plain chicken or unseasoned beef or a commercial tasty treat. Even plain air-popped popcorn isn’t as big a reward and incentive to work as a piece of chicken!

Causes of Puppy Bad Breath

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The main cause of puppy bad breath is their diet of mother's milk.
Puppy bad breath often disappears by the time the pup is 6 months old and eating regular food. Credit: Infinityyy | Getty Images

Many people love the unique smell of puppy breath (myself included). Young puppies, especially in the first 4 months of life, have a particular aroma to their breath that is different from an adult dog’s breath. This smell usually fades by the time they turn 6 months old. But why does puppy breath smell bad?

We don’t really know why young puppies have such distinctive breath. The top theory is that it happens because these little guys are either only consuming milk or have only recently started eating solid food. The milk that they get from their mother could contribute to the aroma of puppy breath.

Other Reasons Puppy Breath Smells Bad

If your puppy truly does have bad breath, consider these potential causes:

  1. Eating poop. You read that right. Sometimes our puppies get confused as they are learning about solid food and eat their own or their siblings’ feces. The best way to resolve this behavior and stop it from becoming a habit is to pick up poop immediately so it isn’t available.
  2. Sometimes puppies can get bad breath as their deciduous teeth fall out and the permanent teeth erupt through their gums. Teething usually occurs around four to six months of age. Not every puppy will get bad breath during teething, but if your pup is in that age range, that could be the issue.
  3. Something is stuck in the puppy’s mouth. If your puppy gets a piece of food or a toy stuck in his teeth, over time it will rot and build up bacteria, resulting in a rancid odor. Be sure to check the roof of your puppy’s mouth for a fragment of a stick or toy stuck sideways. If you can’t get the offending item free, schedule a veterinary appointment.
  4. Dental disease. It is unusual for young puppies to have periodontal disease, but it is possible. Generally, puppies haven’t had the chance to build up the bacteria and calculus that cause dental disease and bad breath. Still, check to see if your puppy’s gums are red or bleeding, or if he has a broken tooth. You may also notice him pawing at his mouth or only chewing food on one side. If you think your puppy may have dental disease, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to come up with a treatment plan.

How to Freshen Puppy Breath

As long as your puppy doesn’t have an underlying medical issue causing bad breath, you can help keep his puppy kisses pleasant by introducing tooth brushing. Choose an enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs. Your veterinarian may even have some free samples you can try.

For puppies who still have their baby teeth or who are teething, just let your puppy lick the toothpaste off a toothbrush once a day. This helps to build a positive association with the toothbrush, plus the enzymes in the toothpaste help prevent plaque from building up on the teeth. (Did you know PetSmile is the only canine toothpaste approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council?)

You can start brushing your puppy’s teeth once he has stopped teething and has all his adult teeth. Start gradually by just touching the brush to one tooth a night, then build up over time. The American Veterinary Medical Association has a good video on how to brush your dog’s teeth.

If you’re not sure if your puppy’s breath is normal puppy breath, drop in to your veterinary clinic and offer puppy cuddles to staff members who love puppy breath. They can tell you how your puppy’s breath measures up, and if they say it isn’t normal, you can schedule an appointment right then.

“Save Me! I Have Only a Day To Live!”

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Adopting a dog is a big decision, and it can't be made out of guilt or shame.
Shelters that use time-sensitive pleas to “save this dog’s life!” in order to shame or guilt people into making inappropriate adoption decisions should be avoided. It’s important to make good adoptions, not just shuffle dogs hastily hoping that things will work out. Credit: Anita Kot, Getty Images

As you have probably gleaned, I’m a big proponent of adopting dogs from shelters or rescues whenever possible. Every type of dog exists in a shelter somewhere, and no matter how long and specific the list of attributes you require in a dog may be, if you are patient and look long and hard enough, you can find a dog with those traits in a shelter or rescue group somewhere. Looking for an apricot-colored adult female Poodle? A young male German Wirehaired Pointer? If you are patient, you will find several candidates to choose from.

I know that there are some people who just really want a purebred puppy, I would not begrudge that experience for anyone. But if someone is looking for a young or adult dog of a certain breed, or is flexible about what breed of dog or puppy they want, I feel confident that they could find a candidate in a shelter—even if it turns out to be a shelter that’s sort of far from where they live.  It’s not a problem we experience here in northern California—our shelters are packed to the roof!—but I’ve heard that there are parts of the country with relatively few dogs in the shelters.

However, there is one tactic that shelters and rescues sometimes take in an effort to place the dogs in their care that will automatically make me refuse to consider or promote that source: the high-pressure, life-or-death, “Fluffy only has 24 hours to live . . . unless you save him TODAY” sort of appeal.

It’s possible that shelters or rescues who take this tack actually place some of those dogs—but it’s also highly likely that people do desperate things in order to “save” those dogs, and some of them are not in the best interests of themselves or, often, the dogs! Overburdened rescue groups press their members to the breaking point to take “just one more,” past the point that they can truly afford or have time to care for. Dogs get shuffled from one temporary foster home to another, sometimes risking the spread of disease or parasites—and sometimes risking fights and injuries to the dogs in foster providers’ homes!

It’s not fair to anyone, especially exhausted experienced rescue volunteers and naïve newbie volunteers who have no idea of what they might be getting themselves into, when these “life or death,” “ticking clock” threats are made in order to place dogs. These tactics are more likely to make people who care the most feel the worst—and I daresay they don’t make people who care the least care even one bit more. In my experience, the bulk of the emotional punishment of these social media pleas falls on the people who are already doing something to help a rescue or shelter.

Here is a post that describes all of the bad things that can result when shelters use social media to try to place dogs with a “euthanasia list” plea. If you’re involved with a shelter or rescue group that has taken this tack, please read the post and reconsider.

Dog Ear Muffs Provide Hearing Protection

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Dog ear muffs protect against more than cold weather. They also
Photo caption: The right dog ear muff fits your dog comfortably. If it doesn’t, he will get it off. It must also muffle the ear canal or it won’t do any good. Photo credit: smrm1977 | Getty Images

Hearing protection for your dog? Of course! We want our dogs to live their best lives, so we dwell on their diet, their vaccinations, their teeth, their vision . . . and we should think about hearing, too. Hearing loss can happen due to constant exposure to loud noise, just as it can with humans. Ear muffs for dogs can also provide comfort to noise-sensitive dogs, like the ones who can’t handle a thunderstorm, fireworks, the vacuum, or a barrage of sirens in the area. A 2021 study in Frontiers in Veterinary Science found that sudden loud noises are the most common trigger for fearful behavior in dogs. Clearly, these dogs need our help.

Noise-induced hearing loss happens when the delicate structures of a dog’s middle and inner ear are harmed by loud noises. In medical terms, “The stereocilia are specialized hair cells in the dog’s cochlea that vibrate in response to sound waves, which can get damaged from loud noises,” says Paola Cuevas, a veterinarian, MVZ, and behaviorist. Once damaged, these sensory cells are unable to send signals to the dog’s brain, resulting in hearing loss. “The eardrum or tympanic membrane as well as the inner ear’s ossicles can also get damaged with extreme and repeated percussion noise.”

In addition to concerns about hearing loss are the dogs who are afraid of loud noises. These dogs find holidays like the Fourth of July almost unbearable. “Noise sensitivity is a very common cause of anxiety in dogs. It can present signs such as pacing, shaking, hiding, and sometimes getting lost or even destructive behavior,” says Dr Cuevas. For additional information on noise-induced anxiety in your dog, consider enrolling in our online course “Dogs and Noise Anxiety.” A noise-muffling ear muff can go a long ways toward helping these dogs.

The Rise of Dog Ear Muffs

Recognizing the need for hearing protection and muffling loud noises for dogs, several manufacturers developed a range of ear muffs specifically designed for dogs. These products are typically made from soft, comfortable materials and feature adjustable straps to ensure a secure fit. In 2013, a study published in Radiology looked at Mutt Muffs to block the sound of an MRI (if you ever had one, you know how noisy they are!) and found that Mutt Muffs helped block the noise and prevented repeat scans caused by the dog not holding still.

How Dog Ear Muffs Work

Dog ear muffs operate on a similar principle to human ear protection. They create a barrier between the dog’s ears and the external noise, reducing the sound intensity that reaches the inner ear. While they may not eliminate all noise, they can significantly dampen loud sounds, providing relief and protection for your pet. “It is worth checking out the military-grade products such as Canine Auditory Protection System (CAPS), new military-designed approach to hearing protection that combines effective noise reduction with comfort and the ability to maintain communication,” says Dr. Cuevas. “Repeated exposure to loud noises not only contributes to anxiety but also can result in progressive hearing loss.”

Choosing the Right Dog Ear Muffs

There’s no shortage of products to choose from both online and in pet stores. Below is a sampling of some of the leading ear-protection products available.

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Mutt Muffs

  • Key Features: Soft, comfortable materials, adjustable straps, high noise reduction rating, variety of colors and sizes.
  • Price: $60 to $80.

Rex Specs Ear Pro

  • Key Features: Durable construction, high noise reduction rating, adjustable straps, available in multiple colors.
  • Price: $70 to $100.

PuroPup

  • Key Features: Stylish design, comfortable fit, adjustable straps, high noise reduction rating.
  • Price: $40 to $60.

Woofworks

  • Key Features: Lightweight, breathable materials, adjustable straps, effective noise reduction.
  • Price: $30 to $50.

DerYEP

  • Key Features: Affordable option, decent noise reduction, adjustable straps.
  • Price: $30-$50.

Custom-Molded Earplugs

For dogs with unique ear shapes or sensitivities, custom-molded earplugs can provide a more personalized and comfortable fit. Ask your veterinarian about how to get these made for your dog. And, in general, consult with your veterinarian to determine the best ear protection option for your pet.

While we lean toward Mutt Muffs as our first pick, your choice in a dog ear muff to help protect your dog’s hearing and/or muffle scary noises depends widely on your individual dog. Fit is everything (think about your own ear mufflers for mowing the lawn—if they drive you crazy, you won’t wear them). Read the manufacturer’s description, note the measurements of the device compared to your dog’s size, the product adjustability, and the manufacturer’s advice on fit. If needed, call the company’s customer service. You can also get your veterinarian’s advice, as he or she may have experience with various devices.

Hearing Aids

For dogs who have already suffered hearing loss, a hearing aid might help, but it must be custom fit for each dog to the tune of $3,000 or more. The FETCHLab at the University of Cincinnati makes hearing aids made for dogs. Your dog will need to be trained to wear the hearing aid. Note: Hearing aids won’t work for dogs who have lost all hearing. Hearing aids work by amplifying sound, but if your dog has congenital deafness there is no residual hearing left to amplify. Another method to consider for a deaf dog is a vibration collar. Read more in “Do They Make Hearing Aids for Dogs.”

Why Your Dog Needs Hearing Protection

Canines have a much wider hearing range than humans and can hear in an approximate range of 67,000 herz (Hz) to 65,000 Hz, while we can detect only up to 23,000 Hz. Dogs can hear things we can’t, and they can pinpoint the precise location of sounds.

This impressive sense of hearing comes a price. Cuevas says dog ears can easily be damaged at noise levels above 85 decibels, which is easily exceeded by everyday household noises such as a vacuum or even a screaming child. Attenuating noises with ear protection can make the difference between suffering irreparable damage leading to hearing loss and even deafness, which leaves them even more exposed to other dangers in the environment. However, noise-induced hearing loss in dogs is preventable with hearing protection.

Dogs who spend time in an environment with loud percussion noises definitively need ear protection or ear muffs. “Police dogs, service dogs, military dogs, search and rescue dogs, and dogs guarding construction sites are all very susceptible to suffering from noise-induced hearing loss and will need to have some ear protection,” says Cuevas.

Beyond the dogs trained for specific functions, any dog can experience hearing loss due to prolonged exposure to loud noises common in everyday life—from the bang of fireworks to the roar of a jet engine—can have an impact.

Given how much more acute dogs hearing is compared to ours,  their sensitive ears can be overwhelmed. While any loud noise can potentially cause damage, be especially cautious in these scenarios:

  • Air travel: The noise levels in airplane cabins can be harmful to a dog’s hearing.
  • Outdoor events: Concerts, sporting events, and other loud gatherings can be overwhelming for dogs.
  • Construction sites: Exposure to heavy machinery and construction noise can damage a dog’s hearing.

Warning Signs Of Hearing Loss In Your Dog

How do you know if your dog may be experiencing hearing loss? Kari Foss, a veterinary neurologist and professor of veterinary clinical medicine at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, lists these warning signs:

  • Failing to respond when called
  • Sleeping through sounds that normally would rouse them.
  • Startling at loud noises that previously didn’t bother them.
  • Barking excessively or making unusual vocal sounds.

Foss added that dogs with deafness in one ear might respond to commands but could have difficulty locating the source of a sound.

Is Your Puppy Ruining Your Family Dinners?

Puppy begging is adorable, but it is a problem behavior.
Don’t despair if your puppy seems to need your attention the most the moment that it’s time to sit down and share a meal with your family! You can meet his needs, and your own, by following this plan. Credit: David Petrus Ibars, Getty Images

The other day, a client reached out because her new puppy was a nightmare whenever the family sat down to dinner. The first few nights, he was jumping up, grabbing napkins, and sinking sharp puppy teeth into the nearest human appendage. After that, they tried crating him, but he barked, nonstop, at the top of his lungs.

The owner was at her wit’s end—a common place to be during puppyhood—saying, “We need to be able to eat in peace!”  She had read that she should teach the puppy “place” so that he’d calmly lie on his bed during dinner hour.

That is a lovely vision, indeed, but it’s a very high bar for a 9-week-old puppy. There’s a more realistic way to create a peaceful kitchen table scene for the humans that works beautifully for your puppy, too.

Why Is he Acting This Way?

First, let’s think about this from the puppy’s point of view. (That is, of course, the smartest kick-off to solving any dog issue. If you want your answers to be long lasting, they have to work for the canine partner, too.)

So, why is the puppy being so annoying during the family dinner? First off, his nose is basically screaming at him: “OMG, there’s food!” A dog has more than 200 million scent receptors in his nose compared to our measly six million. If dinner smells good to you, just imagine what it smells like to him!

Combine that with the deeply rooted survival instincts that tell him to grab nutrition whenever he can, and of course he’s going to make a beeline for your plate.

If that weren’t enough, consider another motivating factor: togetherness. This little puppy only recently left his real family, where he spent every waking hour surrounded by littermates and mom. He’s not used to being alone, and wow does it feel terrific when this whole new family is all together, particularly if they were off at work and school all day.

So, to recap, this little pup is very naturally over-aroused because of the excitement of the food and the thrill of the togetherness. Now that we think about it, we humans can’t get cranky about that, right? As the adults in the room, we just need to help our little toddler navigate this moment in a way that works for us all.

Planning Ahead to Meet your Puppy’s Needs

Since we can expect a pup to have big feelings around our human dinner hour, that means we’re able to make a plan ahead of time. What can we do? How can we structure this regular occurrence to bring out the best in the pup and teach him the behavior we’d like to see? Try putting this three-step plan into action at mealtimes:

  1. Address the food issue with a frozen Toppl. Rather than keeping the pup on a different eating schedule, give the puppy his dinner at the same time you sit down at the table, so that he’s busy enjoying his own delicious meal instead of lusting after yours.

If you’re thinking, “But it only takes him 20 seconds to snarf up that scoop of kibble,” you’re right! That’s why you’ll want to freeze his dinner to make it last.

Take that same scoop of kibble, add some water and a spoonful of plain yogurt to make a slurry. If you’re inspired, add a dollop of peanut butter or canned pumpkin. Even more inspired? Add a few veggies like carrots and beans.

Use that concoction to stuff a few Toppls, and then freeze them. (Toppls, a chew-resistant toy made by West Paw, have a wider opening than Kongs, so the pup is more likely to enjoy them to the very last drop.)

If you’re thinking it feels a little mean to make food harder to eat, remember that it is natural for a canine to forage for his food. In fact, this session of chewing and licking will be deeply satisfying for your puppy. Studies have shown that for dogs, chewing and licking can be calming, lowering heart rates and reducing anxiety.

  1. Address the togetherness issue with a nearby crate. Rather than isolating the puppy elsewhere during this rewarding moment of family togetherness, make a plan to help him be a part of it.
A dog crate for a puppy set up in a family dining room.
A crate that’s set up near the table allows a puppy to feel included as the family gathers for meals. She’ll love listening to her people talking as she’s engaged with her own food-foraging adventure. You’re building a pattern of your pup feeling content to lie quietly nearby during meals. Credit: Kathy Callahan

 

My favorite way to structure this is to have the puppy’s crate in the kitchen, so that he can enjoy his Toppl while being included in the family dinner. He can listen to his people, smell and see everything — but you’re helping him develop the habit of lying quietly nearby during mealtimes. Keeping him confined but happily busy keeps him from practicing unwanted habits like jumping, biting, barking, and whining.

  1. Address the engagement issue with timing. If the Toppl and crate don’t work well immediately at your house, think about what happens for the hour before dinner. Has the pup had a chance to engage with everybody in the room? If they just walked in the door after being away, it may be hard for the puppy to settle.

Try adjusting your timing a bit. Build in a high-engagement 15-minute game in the yard or the rec room to give your pup a chance to connect the way he needs to, before asking him to sit quietly just feet from his favorite people without touching them.

Including your puppy in mealtimes in a way that doesn't involve begging reinforces good behavior.
Before you sit down at the table, make sure the puppy has had a chance to greet and engage with everyone for a bit. Then, after the fun of getting her own dinner out of a frozen Toppl, your content pup may even fall asleep long enough for you to do the dishes.
Credit: Kathy Callahan

Over time, all of this becomes a deeply ingrained pattern, and trust me when I say that patterns can be the unsung heroes of a relaxed interspecies life. When something simply becomes “how we do it,” there’s no need for a bunch of cues and direction. In this case, the pup starts to look forward to your dinner hour as the time he gets to run to his crate and enjoy chewing and listening.

If you still want to work toward using “place” during dinner, this is a wonderful first step. You are teaching how to hang out quietly nearby the family while they’re eating. Next you can start separately teaching how to go to “place” for a few seconds, then for a minute. As you strengthen those behaviors over time, one day you can marry them in that beautiful “place” on the bed during dinner. But for now, with your little one? The well-timed Toppl-and-crate combination will do the trick.

Why Do Dogs Dig?

Dogs dig for a variety of reasons, instincts, stress, or just because they enjoy it.
While the reasons behind the behavior are numerous, many dogs find digging extremely rewarding. Credit: btplaczek | Getty Images

It’s another one of those Great Dog Mysteries: why your dog suddenly develops the need to dig colossal holes to nowhere in your pristine, unblemished lawn or to turn your picturesque garden into a mini excavation site. Are they in search of invasive creatures like gophers and voles? Are they doing it because perhaps once upon a time, a bone was buried there? Are they doing it just because it’s fun, like a child digging in a sandpile?

Maybe all of the above. You can rest assured they’re not doing it to drive you crazy or to exact revenge on you for skimping on their treats.

The Role of Genetics

Some dog breeds are genetically predisposed to digging.  In Dachshunds, for example, a key breed characteristic is digging to follow small prey into underground burrows and tunnels. This instinct is so strong that merely finding a disturbance in the soil can be enough to stimulate their prey drive, and thus inspire the digging behavior. The same is true for breeds like terriers, beagles, schnauzers, and even hounds. And of course, when those dogs end up discovering a tasty morsel like a grub after digging—or they actually encounter that elusive gopher, which in turn triggers a wild and gleeful chase—that digging behavior gets reinforced.

That being said, it’s important not to equate breed with behavior: although a dog’s breed can help us predict how likely a certain behavior is to occur, breed alone isn’t responsible for an individual dog’s disposition: in fact, breed accounts for less than ten percent of a dog’s overall behavior. Certified behaviorist Victoria Schade says that “a dog’s overall life experience is a better predictor of the way they’ll interact with the world around them than what their breed standards says.”

And yet, all dogs are “hard-wired” to dig: their ancient ancestors dug to locate or hide food, to find a place to give birth, to create dens to keep their pups safe and warm, to mark their territory, to find cooler ground to lie in on hot days. Even though many of these traits have no real purpose in our modern world, they’re so engrained in dog DNA that the behavior endures. As annoying or destructive as it may appear to us, in most cases digging is a perfectly rational, innate canine behavior.

In recognition of this, the AKC has even developed an Earthdog Test that measures how good a “digger” your dog really is in pursuing and finding rodents underground.

Other Reasons That Dogs Dig

Studies have clearly shown that not just a dog’s breed, but his personality, current environment, anxiety level, as well as earlier life experiences can have a profound effect on digging behavior. For instance, if you live in a place where summers are hot and your dog is a thick-coated Nordic breed like a Samoyed, Siberian Husky, or Malamute, you’re much more likely to see them digging a hole to get to the cooler ground below.

Aside from instinctual hunting impulses and the desire to regulate their body temperatures, there are other reasons why your dog might become a digging fool.

Hoarding. In their wolfish past, canines instinctively dug holes in order to stockpile food for lean times or for winter when food was scarce. This can be seen in today’s dogs, when even though their caretakers provide ample food, they may revert to this behavior by burying items like bones.

Escape. In most cases, escape routes involve digging under, jumping over, or even climbing up fences. These canine escape artists might want to reach another dog for play or mating, they might have been prodded by a child teasing them from the other side of the fence or another dog acting aggressively, they might want to socialize with humans at a neighborhood get-together (or, like my dog Frankie, simply hang around construction workers at a neighbor’s house because she thinks that being with people means it’s a party), they might have been frightened by something in the yard, or they may simply want to explore.

Attention-seeking. It may seem counter-intuitive, but some dogs dig holes in order to get their caretaker’s attention. It doesn’t matter if the human’s reaction is negative, because for the dog, simply having the attention of their caretaker is enough. Certified animal behaviorist Maddie Messina explains it this way: “If digging earns them attention from their human companions, dogs may continue the behavior as a means of seeking interaction. There’s nothing more rewarding to a social animal like a dog as their human giving them attention, so if a dog learns this works for them, the unwanted behavior will be reinforced.” And it will continue.

Lack of space or exercise. Animal researcher Dr. Johannes Odendaal makes the point that large and active dogs kept in a small back yard often suffer from insufficient exercise due to lack of space. Unless their caretaker takes pains to walk them frequently, digging can become their way of exercising.

Anxiety or boredom. Some types of dog behaviors have boredom or stress as an underlying cause; digging becomes just another way for them to cope with tedium, extreme energy, or emotions. Research shows that separation anxiety in particular can cause many destructive behaviors, including compulsive digging. For instance, if a dog with separation anxiety is confined in a yard while their caretaker is away, it may start digging, explains veterinarian Dr. Stacy Johnson. “These dogs may incessantly dig—even to the point of injury—to reunite with their owner.” A dog that’s highly motivated to do something but is physically unable to do it may start digging in frustration: an example would be a dog that feels territorial aggression toward another dog, but is prevented from acting on that territoriality because it’s behind a fence.

Play. We know from interacting with our dogs that their mouths and front legs are the main sources of their kinetic energy: they play tug-of-war, carry around toys, wave their legs in the air when they get a belly-rub, and use their feet to paw at us. It makes perfect sense that if they’re looking for a way to entertain themselves, they’ll chew on an object or dig holes. (Or dig a hole and bury their treasure in it!) We humans may see it as destructive behavior, but for the dog it’s probably just a form of play.

To scent-mark. Observational studies show that dogs often dig at or scratch the ground after urination or defecation, which can deposit scent from the urine or feces as well as from the scent glands on their feet. In addition, some researchers believe that the ground disturbance may act as a visual cue to other animals. However, at this point these theories are very speculative, since the behavior hasn’t been formally researched enough to arrive at unequivocal conclusions. “Stand by for more discussions of why dogs ground scratch,” says ethologist Dr. Mark Bekoff, author of The Emotional Lives of Animals. “There still is much to learn, and it’s clear that there is much more going on than meets our eye.”

When Digging Becomes a Problem

If your dog is being truly destructive in his digging, one strategy is to redirect and reward him for digging in a designated digging spot. That might be something like a corner of the yard, a sandpit or sand pile, or even a kiddie pool containing either sand or scraps of old fabric and toys.

If the behavior appears to be extremely repetitive or compulsive and the dog is in genuine distress, you need to get professional veterinary advice so she can be properly diagnosed and treated.

As for training your dog not to dig, that can be problematic at best. First, you need to determine what’s at the root of his problem digging. Is it boredom? Lack of exercise? Frustration? Aggression? Is he just having fun? Or is there something more serious going on that needs veterinary consultation? Each one of these causes requires a different approach and, unfortunately, the reality is that no matter what you do, you’ll probably be unsuccessful in your efforts to make him stop, since digging is as natural to him as eating.

But no matter what the underlying reason is for your dog’s digging proclivities, chances are that you may have to simply grin and bear it and recognize that she’s just being a dog.

When Dog Drool is More Than Just Gross

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When your dog is drooling a lot it can be for behavioral, structural, or medical reasons.
When it comes to identifying whether drool may signal an emergency, it helps to know what is normal for your dog. Credit: Wavetop | Getty Images

Dogs drool. Some just drool a little once in a while, while others (we’re looking at you, Newfoundlands) drool a lot. Drooling can happen for structural, behavioral, and medical reasons.

Normal Drooling

Dogs commonly drool in the presence of food or when they really want something. Male dogs, especially intact males, will drool in the presence of a female dog or when sniffing where a cute girl urinated. These are normal instances of drooling, and while kind of gross, the cause is easy to identify and it is nothing to worry about.

Some dogs are also just plain built to drool. Dogs with loose, floppy jowls tend to be heavy droolers because their saliva pools in the lips and then drips out. Bloodhounds, Coonhounds, Mastiffs, Basset Hounds, and Dogues de Bordeaux are a few breeds that come with a spit warning. If your dog is naturally drooly, keep clean hand towels on hand to wipe his lips and chin, especially after drinking.

Why is My Dog Drooling So Much All of a Sudden?

If your dog is not typically a drooler, or if he starts drooling more than usual, there may be something amiss.

Stress Drool

One cause of excessive drooling is stress. You may notice your dog drooling around other dogs that he doesn’t know, during veterinary visits, or during thunderstorms. Stress-related drooling will usually be accompanied by other signs of stress and anxiety, such as shaking, tense posture, wide eyes, and whining.

Dental Pain

Dogs frequently drool when their mouths hurt. If your dog is drooling and acting strange, such as pawing at his mouth or rubbing his face on the ground, carefully check his mouth for an object that is stuck between the teeth or an injury such as a cut or wasp sting. Dogs who like to chew on sticks frequently get a piece stuck cross-wise on the roof of the mouth, so be sure to check there.

How to Remove Something Stuck in the Mouth

If your dog has something stuck in his mouth, you can try to remove it yourself, but be careful.

  1. Calm your dog with long, slow pets and by talking in a calm voice.
  2. Lift the lips to check the other parts of the mouth, including the teeth and the space between the lips and gums. Go all the way around the mouth, top and bottom.
  3. Gently open your dog’s mouth by grasping his upper and lower jaw behind the big canine teeth. Check the roof of his mouth and the back of the throat if you are able.
  4. If you see a stuck object, use your entire hand to gently try to remove it. It is harder for your dog to accidentally bite down if your entire fist is in his mouth versus just two fingers.
  5. If the object does not come free easily, leave it! Forcefully removing something stuck could severely damage your dog’s mouth.

If you are not able to easily remove the foreign object, call your dog’s veterinarian. They will be able to sedate your dog to safely remove the item when she is relaxed.

Drooling due to dental disease often comes on gradually and gets worse over time. As plaque and calculus build up on your dog’s teeth and the gums become irritated, his body produces saliva to try to soothe the inflamed tissues and flush out invaders. If your dog fractures a tooth, you may notice a sudden increase in drooling.

Other signs of dental disease include:

  • Red or bleeding gums
  • Calculus buildup on the teeth
  • Gum recession (teeth look longer)
  • Difficulty or reluctance to chew
  • Bad breath

Nausea

Dogs often drool when they feel nauseous. Nausea can be caused by many different things, ranging from a simple upset stomach to more serious illnesses such as pancreatitis, parvovirus, or kidney failure. Dogs can also get motion sickness just like humans.

If your dog is drooling due to nausea, he will likely be a bit lethargic and withdrawn, and not eating well. Some dogs approach their food bowls like they want to eat, but then turn away, drooling. He may vomit, but this is not always the case.

Toxicity

Drooling is a symptom of toxicity for a number of plants, toads, frogs, food items, and chemicals that are toxic to dogs. Exact symptoms will vary depending on what toxic item your dog was exposed to and how much.

If you know or suspect that your dog has gotten into something poisonous, call one of these hotlines:

Pet Poison Helpline (855) 764-7661

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888) 426-4435

Bloat

Gastric dilatation and volvulus, commonly known as bloat, is most common in large, deep-chested dogs, but can affect any of our canine companions. Symptoms include:

  • Drooling
  • Retching or dry heaving without successfully throwing anything up
  • Pacing
  • Restlessness
  • Panting
  • Tense abdomen
  • Distended abdomen

Bloat is an emergency and requires immediate veterinary intervention.

Seizures

Dogs often drool in the post-ictal period after having a seizure. Seizures generally only last a minute or two, but your dog may be out of sorts for a lot longer. Other behaviors that dogs may display after a seizure include disorientation, wobbliness, temporary vision impairment, and agitation or aggression.

If your dog has a seizure, seek veterinary care to determine why the seizure occurred and start treatment if needed. If a seizure lasts more than five minutes, this is an emergency.

When is Drooling an Emergency?

Drooling itself is not an emergency. However, if your dog is drooling and acting strange, the excessive drool may be a symptom of a more serious problem.

Drooling requires a vet visit if it is accompanied by:

  • Vomiting
  • Poor appetite
  • Bad breath and signs of dental disease
  • Frequent stress and anxiety
  • Weight loss
  • Lethargy

Drooling is an emergency and requires immediate veterinary care if it is accompanied by:

  • Signs of bloat such as a distended abdomen and nonproductive retching
  • An item stuck in the mouth or throat
  • Vomiting and diarrhea
  • Neurological signs such as staggering, circling, or falling over
  • Seizures
  • Known or suspected exposure to a toxin
  • Difficulty breathing
  • Unconsciousness

If your dog seems fine overall but is drooling more than usual without an obvious explanation, a vet visit never hurts. Excessive drooling without other symptoms of illness or injury is not an emergency, but a full physical exam and some routine bloodwork are a good idea to check for early signs of a problem.

Flehmen Response in Dogs

The flehmen response in dogs is a reaction to new or unique smells.
The flehmen response in dogs is a reaction to new or unique smells.

The Flehmen response in dogs and many other mammals is a natural reaction to a new or strange smell.  Urine is one of the most common causes of the Flehmen response in dogs, but some male dogs may show the Flehmen response when they smell a female dog nearby. The male dog may also show teeth chattering after sensing the female’s presence.

Classic signs of the Flehmen response are:

  • Curled-back and raised upper lip, often with wrinkles near the nostrils
  • Raised head
  • Exposed teeth, possibly with chattering
  • Open mouth

However, you may not always notice the Flehmen response in a dog.

Horses are widely believed to have the obvious Flehmen response with a marked raised upper lip, wrinkled nostrils, and a raised head. In dogs, says a study published in 2022 in Animals, it’s not as easy to identify:  “The typical Flehmen reflex is not observed in dogs and cats because their upper lips are too rigid and firmly fixed via the frenulum to permit this type of movement. These animal species exhibit different attitudes of behavior, namely they assume a position with an upright head and neck, which they stretch forward for a short time.”  In dogs, say the researchers, there often is a rapid retraction of the tongue that likely aids in the perception of pheromones.

This doesn’t mean dogs don’t do the Flehmen response (they do, read on). It just means it isn’t always obvious to an onlooker.

Jacobson’s Organ in Dogs

The open-mouth part of the Flehmen response allows Jacobson’s organ to be maximally involved. Jacobson’s organ, also known as the vomeronasal organ, consists of sensory cells in the front of the nasal cavity, just behind the incisors (the little teeth in front between the long canines, or fangs). Danish physician Ludwig Levin Jacobson identified Jacobson’s organ in 1813.

Jacobson’s organ detects nearly seemingly scentless things like pheromones. If pheromones are detected, the organ sends the information to what some experts call a “secondary olfactory organ” in the brain to trigger the mating instinct. Australian scholar Michael Stoddard published a paper in Nature (2000) that called the organ a “sixth sense.”

Dog’s Amazing Ability to Detect a Scent

It is possible that a dog who is panting more out of interest or excitement rather than fatigue may be using that open-mouth, tongue-out posture to bring more air past Jacobson’s organ to help identify a smell. Experts continue to be amazed at what dogs can find by smell. A dog’s ability to detect a scent is said to be 10,000 to 100,000 times that of a human, according to a 2018 research study published in Frontiers in Veterinary Science.

Recent studies show that dogs can detect not only specific scents of drugs or explosives, but dogs can also note changes in emotions and human cell metabolism during various illnesses, including COVID-19 infection. And, of course, dogs are critical in the search for a missing person.

It’s interesting to note that scent work is a fast-growing sport. Both humans and dogs appear to be enjoying doing nose work (or scent work) competitions. Noting and tracking a scent is like reading a newspaper to dogs—it’s information. That love of smelling things is one of the many reasons experts encourage us to allow our dogs to sniff about when we’re on walks.

How to Calm a Scared Dog

Calm a scared shaking dog with a calm presence and soothing words.
When your dog is scared, your job is to provide a calm, safe space for her. Credit: wdj | Getty Images

It is heartbreaking to see your dog be scared and upset. To help your dog, stay calm yourself and try to make the situation less stressful for her if possible. Here are some strategies to use in the moment to comfort your dog.

Scared Dog? Stay Calm

You are your dog’s person, his caretaker and partner in life. When he is scared, he will naturally look to you for comfort. Your job in these situations is to stay calm and be his rock.

Talk to your dog in a slow, soothing tone. High-pitched baby talk can be tempting, but this may just exacerbate a fearful dog’s distress. Channel your inner Morgan Freeman to calm your dog. It doesn’t matter what exactly you say, but some easy options are to talk your dog through what is going on and what you are going to do next or use human panic attack strategies such as listing things in the environment that you and your dog can see, smell, hear, touch, and taste. Grounding yourself will help to ground your dog.

Keep your movements slow and fluid, avoiding jerking motions. Taking a few deep breaths can help you to physically relax, which in turn signals to your dog that he can relax.

Doing a “slow blink” when your dog is looking at you is a calming signal. This says to your dog, “See—I’m comfortable closing my eyes. There is nothing to worry about.”

Safety First

Quickly assess your dog’s safety—is she in a secure location? Does she have a well-fitted collar or harness and leash? Frightened dogs often bolt and are not thinking straight when motivated by fear. You want to prevent your dog from running into the road or disappearing into woods or your neighborhood.

While not a long-term solution, a slip lead is the most secure for these situations. If there is any chance that your dog can get out of her regular collar, you can create a makeshift slip lead by pulling the snap end of the leash through the handle to create a loop. Then place the loop over your dog’s head so that it will slide and become snug if your dog pulls or bolts.

The other plus to a slip lead is that you can make the loop large to carefully put it on a nervous dog without touching her. This is perfect for fearful dogs who may snap or bite if you try to grab their collar.

Offer Physical Comfort

Physical contact is beneficial for many scared dogs. Pet your scared shaking dog with long, slow strokes from head to tail. You can also gently massage her ears to promote relaxation.

If your dog enjoys cuddling, hold her close to your body so she can feel your heartbeat. Take slow, deep breaths to encourage your dog to relax and match your breathing patterns. These slow breaths will also help to slow your heartbeat. If your dog is not keen on being held, holding her may not be helpful.

If you do not know the dog that you are trying to comfort, proceed with caution. A scared dog may snap or bite if she feels cornered. If the dog becomes more agitated as you approach or reach for her, step back a little and break eye contact until she relaxes.

Distractions

You can use a variety of distractions to calm a scared, shaking dog. Treats are an excellent option if you have food available—many dogs love food and the act of eating provides comfort. You can use whatever food you have on hand as long as it is not toxic to dogs (save the chocolate to comfort yourself!).

You can also talk to your dog, engage her in play, or ask her to perform some easy behaviors that she knows well. When using training as a distraction, praise any effort that your dog makes. For example, maybe when she is relaxed she has a really reliable hand touch where she presses her nose to your hand. If she is scared, praise her if she even flicks her head toward your hand when you ask her to touch. Your goal is to make it easy for her to succeed and then tell her how wonderful and smart she is. Gradually she will focus more and more on you and less on whatever scared her.

Identify Triggers and Avoid

Whenever possible, identify what is causing your dog to be scared and get her away from it. Here are some examples:

  • If your dog is afraid of the running vacuum, take her outside or to another room where she can’t hear it as loudly.
  • If your dog is upset by construction noises outside, play classical music or put the TV on to help drown out the scary sounds.
  • If your dog is afraid of a person approaching on the sidewalk, cross the street or make a turn to get away from the person.
  • If your dog is scared of a dog running toward her, pick her up or place yourself between the two dogs as a barrier.

Shelter in the Storm

If you can’t avoid whatever is scaring your dog, try to provide him with a hiding place so he can feel a little more secure. This might mean putting a blanket over your lap so he can hide under your legs in his own private fort or moving out of the center of a busy crowd and finding a quiet spot against a wall so your dog doesn’t have to worry about someone sneaking up on him from behind. Crates are an excellent “safe spot” for many dogs.

Grandkids and Dogs

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Few things are as heartwarming as a well behaved grandchild and dog spending pleasant time together.
Oliver had his hands on one or the other of the dogs almost constantly. Fortunately, they welcomed his company!

Oliver came to California for an end-of-summer, two-week visit with us, and we enjoyed taking him for some fun adventures: a water park, paddle boarding, bike riding, a county fair, and so on. But I most enjoyed watching Oliver when he didn’t think anyone was watching him, playing with, talking to, and wandering around our property with my dogs. He wanted the dogs to accompany him everywhere (they were happy to) and to sleep on his bed (they did not want to; they have other sleeping spots they prefer). And he negotiated with me constantly about whether I loved him enough to give him one of my dogs when his parents finally agreed that they were ready to own a dog. (His mom says this won’t happen until after his 3-year-old brother enters kindergarten—but he’s not getting one of my dogs! Though I’d be happy to help them find and train a worthy candidate.)

Kids and dogs can make many summertime memories together when they understand each other.
Oliver was happiest when we could do activities that involved the dogs.

 

Part of the reason I love observing Oliver and the dogs so much is that I, too, was a committed dog-lover as a child. I was younger than my siblings by 5, 6, and 7 years, and we lived in the country with no kids my age close by, so my family’s dogs were really my closest friends when I was growing up. None of our dogs ever wore collars, and I don’t think we even owned a leash, so I had to rely on a friendly relationship with them to convince them to accompany or stay with me as I entertained myself in the outdoors around our house, in our 100-year-old barn, the creek bed that formed one of our property lines, or the fruit orchards we were surrounded by. (It turns out that this is a great skill to have for helping teach dogs to stay with you on off-leash walks!)

Many kids instinctively want to hold their dog’s leash on walks, or even just around the house, but I’ve found that this very quickly leads to the phenomenon of kids pulling, yanking, or dragging their dogs around against their will—not a recommended method for creating a close and loving relationship between them. With my grandson—who can frankly be a little smothering with his affection for my big dogs—I prefer to replicate the dog-handling methods of my childhood: I told Oliver that he’s not allowed to “make” the dogs do anything with a leash, physical force, or even just a bossy tone of voice, but he is welcome to see what he can “get” them to do by using a happy voice, food treats, and the sort of petting they like. And he was able to get them to do all sorts of things!

On Oliver’s visit last year, When Boone was just a year or so old, the shaggy dog was a little cautious around Oliver. He hadn’t had much exposure to little kids and was interested but also wary of Oliver’s sudden movements or being trapped in a hug. But this year, the now-2-year-old dog seemed to remember Oliver from last summer, and was thrilled to have someone nearly constantly pet him. Boone can still be a bit wary of strange children, but he truly loves being around Oliver.

Kids and dogs are an iconic duo, and make for treasured memories.
Sometimes Woody would deploy his big tongue to get some space from Oliver’s affections. Other times, he’d stand over the small boy and “wash” his face very thoroughly as Oliver writhed on the floor with laughter.

Nearly 9-year-old Woody also loves Oliver and appreciates all the petting, but I did have to impose a new rule for their interactions: Woody loves to lick kids, and Oliver does not mind being licked one bit, even when the big dog’s tongue goes practically up his nose and into his mouth and ears. But sometimes, I have noticed, Woody uses his tongue as a very gentle but nevertheless persistent barrier to being hugged or snuggled. Sometimes he is truly giving Oliver an affectionate lick, but sometimes, I suspected, he licks for the response he usually gets from me: Yuck! Stop! I explained to Oliver that if Woody is licking him in the face, he should take a step back (or lean away) from Woody, and if the licking stops, then Woody might be trying to tell him that he needs more space. It’s a sort of “consent test,” and it worked: About half the time, Woody did seem to be trying to get Oliver to give him a little more breathing room as they lay together in one of our big dog beds or on the couch.

I’m just a step-grandma—Oliver has two other very loving and involved biological grandmas who see him more often than me—but I’m happy to have the ticket to his joy on our visits.

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