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Idiopathic Aggression in Dogs

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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Idiopathic rage is associated with Cocker Spaniels, and is sometimes called cocker rage.
Often associated with Cocker Spaniels, idiopathic aggression is rare and poorly understood. Credit: Anchy | Getty Images

Have you ever heard of rage syndrome in dogs? The term “Cocker Rage” has been used to describe the sudden onset of aggression without any apparent cause in the English Cocker Spaniel breed. Rage syndrome in dogs is also known as idiopathic aggression.

So, what is idiopathic aggression in dogs and can it be cured or successfully managed?

What is Idiopathic Aggression?

Idiopathic aggression in dogs is aggression that is explosive in nature, unprovoked, and appears suddenly, often without warning. According to Overall (1997)[i], dogs in the midst of an idiopathic aggression episode may foam at the moth and twitch. Seizures can cause similar symptoms and should be ruled out. Indeed, it can be difficult to identify the overlap between behavioral and neurological diagnoses. Idiopathic aggression appears to be most common in dogs aged 1 to 3 years of age.

Research by Wojewodzic and Sell-Kubiak (2024)[ii] which looked into aggressive behavior in the English Cocker Spaniel breed identified a number of risk factors. These included:

  • Males were more likely to show aggression compared to females
  • Aggression towards people and other animals increased with age
  • English Cocker Spaniels adopted from a shelter were more likely to display aggression towards people
  • Dogs that did not have a pedigree or Kennel Club certification were more likely to display aggressive behavior

A separate study by Engdahl et al (2023)[iii] also found that male English Cocker Spaniels were more likely to show aggression compared to females. Interestingly, they also found that aggression was higher in solid-colored dogs.

We still don’t know exactly what causes idiopathic aggression because it’s a very difficult condition for researchers to study as they are unable to induce it.

Symptoms of Idiopathic Aggression?

The main symptom of idiopathic aggression in dogs is intense and unpredictable outbursts of aggression which seemingly occur out of the blue. These episodes of aggression often appear like an overreaction to a relatively benign situation and can be dangerous, especially if there are children or other pets in the home.

Behavioral signs may include freezing, staring, dilated pupils, showing the whites of the eye (whale eye), and baring teeth which can rapidly escalate to biting and lunging. Owners often report that their dog appears “possessed” and even confused during and immediately following episodes of idiopathic aggression.

How is Idiopathic Aggression Diagnosed?

Fortunately, idiopathic aggression is a very uncommon condition. Most dog owners mistakenly believe their dog has idiopathic aggression when in fact, the aggressive episodes they have witnessed are a symptom of underlying illness, pain, fear, or anxiety or are related to resource guarding behavior.

Idiopathic aggression in dogs must be diagnosed by a veterinarian as it is a complex condition and can be difficult to diagnose. Your veterinarian will conduct a thorough physical and neurological examination and may run a blood analysis and other tests to inform their diagnosis. If your regular vet is unsure of how to diagnose rage syndrome in dogs, they may refer you to a specialist who is more experienced with the condition.

A thorough veterinary examination and health and behavioral history are vital to assist in distinguishing between idiopathic aggression and aggression resulting from illness, pain, fear, anxiety, or resource guarding.

How to Manage Idiopathic Aggression in Dogs

Unfortunately, there is no known cure for idiopathic aggression because the underlying causes remain poorly understood. If your dog has been diagnosed by a veterinarian as having idiopathic aggression, management of the condition is paramount to ensure your safety and your dog’s welfare. In many cases Idiopathic aggression can be successfully managed by taking the following steps:

  • Avoid using punishment, such as yelling or physical corrections, as punishment can escalate aggression and prolong the problem.
  • Identify any triggers for aggression and avoid them when possible to help prevent strengthening the neural pathways in the brain from previous responses.
  • Work with a qualified professional to learn how to effectively manage and use behavior modification strategies, such as desensitization and counterconditioning.
  • Your vet may prescribe medication for your dog to support management and address any fear or anxiety which may be contributing to the aggressive outbursts.

According to Dobson (2012)[iv], in extreme cases, management may not be possible or feasible to ensure the safety of the adults, children, and other pets in the home. For dogs displaying severe aggression over a long period of time and where the triggers are widespread, unavoidable, and relatively benign (e.g. normal, everyday events), the high degree of safety risks, difficulty and stress of permanently, consistently maintaining the required precautions and the impact on human and canine quality of life, together with a poor prognosis for improvement, lead to serious consideration of euthanasia as the most appropriate course of action.

The good news is that the vast majority of cases of aggression in dogs are behavioral rather than pathological in nature and caused by factors such as pain, illness, fear, anxiety, or resource guarding. Fortunately, these types of aggression can be successfully managed and modified under the guidance of a qualified, positive reinforcement focused trainer, certified applied animal behaviorist, or veterinary behaviorist to achieve significant improvement, maintain good welfare, and reduce the risk of injury to people.

[i] Overall, K. L. (1997). Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals (pp. xvi+-544).

[ii] Wojewodzic, D., & Sell-Kubiak, E. (2024). Effect of dogs characteristics on aggressive behaviour towards humans and other animals in English Cocker Spaniels. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 275, 106293.

[iii] Engdahl, K. S., Brodbelt, D. C., Cameron, C., Church, D. B., Hedhammar, Å., & O’Neill, D. G. (2023). Demography and disorders of English Cocker Spaniels under primary veterinary care in the UK. Canine Medicine and Genetics, 10(1), 4.

[iv] Dobson, J. (2012). Human-directed canine aggression. Veterinary Times, 42(45), 14.

Halloween Pet Safety

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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Halloween pet safety means keeping your dogs away from treats and costumes that can harm or discomfort them while involving them in the fun.
Costumes can be fun but be sure to give your dog plenty of time to get used to wearing one. Credit: Irina Kashaeva | Getty Images

It’s the season for costumes, candy, and creepy décor. Halloween can be one of the most fun holidays for a pet, but also one of the most hazardous. From choosing safe costumes to takeaways on trick or treating, the following Halloween pet safety tips will help both you and your dog have a frightfully delightful holiday.

Costume Parties for Dogs

Some dogs—Pugs, we’re looking at you—think dressing up is a blast, while others prefer to prance around in their birthday suit, or maybe a bandana if they’re feeling formal. The trick is to know where your dog falls on the costume continuum. Here’s what to consider when choosing Halloween costumes for dogs:

  • Fit comes first. A happy Halloween dog needs to feel at ease in a costume. No matter how cute, avoid costumes that restrict vision, hearing, breathing, or movement. Skip costumes with buttons, bows, or fringe that can be chewed off and swallowed. Straps should be easily adjustable without catching on fur or dragging on the ground. A costume that glows in the dark or has reflective strips is a plus.
  • Condition costume comfort. Don’t buy a costume the day before Halloween and expect your dog to take to it immediately. Start practicing putting it on a week or two beforehand, rewarding T-Rex or Twyla with treats and praise as you go and gradually increasing the length of time it stays on. Try it on them several times beforehand until getting it on is second nature for both of you by the time a party or pet costume parade rolls around.
  • Watch for discomfort. Plenty of dogs love to strut their stuff in a costume, reveling in the attention it brings, but others aren’t fans, and it shows. Signs your dog isn’t having a good time include ears laid back, lowered head and tail, dilated pupils, and pawing to remove it. Don’t force the issue if your dog hates wearing a costume. That’s no fun for either of you. They’ll look just as cute in a pumpkin-themed bandana or even their own gorgeous fur coat.
  • Photo op. Pets don’t have to wear costumes for long periods for you to get some great shots for social. Trade some treats for a short photo session and then let them go back to wearing their own fur suits.

What About Your Own Costume?

Your dog may be weirded out if you suddenly appear as Beetlejuice or Wednesday Addams. Let them watch you put on and take off the costume a couple of times—give treats as you do so—and become used to seeing you walk around the house in your new guise, especially if it involves a mask. My dog Harper freaked out every time I put on a mask, even one of those half masks on a stick, so if your dog doesn’t like masks either, try offering favorite treats or toys while wearing one to help develop a pleasant association with it, avoid staring at your pet while wearing it, or don’t wear it in their presence.

Dogs and Spooky Décor

Halloween is a great opportunity to practice conditioning your dog to giant inflatable decorations—because they’ll show up again in November and December. Other elements of spooky season your dog should become accustomed to are strobe lights, jack-o-lanterns, hanging decorations, glow-in-the-dark skulls, and electronic voices that emanate from scary figures when people—or dogs—walk by.

Hand out a favorite treat, toss a ball, or offer a game of tug as you introduce your dog to the new items in the home or yard. When puppy Harper was wary of approaching a large stack of trash bags containing grass cuttings, I sat on them, talked to her calmly, and tossed treats until she was ready to approach on her own. You can do something similar with a large inflatable or hanging figure. Don’t startle your dog by unexpectedly inflating it or dropping it down from a tree.

Gradually introduce other decorative items and use the same techniques to accustom your dog to their presence. Most dogs will adjust quickly after initially startling at the new object, but if they don’t, be patient in conditioning them.

Halloween Dog Safety Tips

Sweets, trick or treating, Houdini escapes, and candle flames are just a few of the Halloween hazards dogs face. Here are some Halloween pet safety tips to keep in mind:

Keep your dog choco-lonely. Most of us know that chocolate can have adverse effects on dogs. Gorging on candy, chocolate or otherwise, isn’t good for them. To avoid a canine bellyache, vomiting, diarrhea, or worse, place all candy well out of reach, even if your dog is a good boy or girl who would never! Sweets can tempt anyone beyond all reason.

Dogs who do find candy often swallow it whole, wrappers and all. If you’re lucky, they’ll just poop out gold foil for a few days, but wrappers can serve as linear foreign bodies that may block or damage the intestinal tract, causing serious problems that require surgical intervention. Be aware of signs of obstruction which include:

  • Vomiting (abdominal heaving and production of partially digested food or other matter, often associated with obstruction of stomach or small intestine)
  • Regurgitation (food isn’t swallowed and rolls back out of the mouth—seen with esophageal obstruction)
  • Diarrhea
  • Lethargy (listless, doesn’t seem to feel well)
  • Appetite loss (especially in dogs who normally love to eat)

Read labels or ask about ingredients, even on foods that might seem harmless. Some candy, mints, gum, and peanut butter, along with sugar-free cookies, cakes, or other baked goods may contain a sugar substitute called xylitol (also seen on labels as birch sugar). It’s great for people who can’t have sugar, but deadly to dogs, causing a dangerous drop in blood glucose levels. Take dogs to the veterinarian or pet ER immediately if they eat anything containing xylitol.

Dogs may also try to snack on decorations such as fake eyeballs, cobwebs, glow sticks, and potpourri, to name just a few. If you have a dog whose mission in life is to taste-test everything they come across, place these items judiciously. All can pose a risk to your dog if ingested.

Having a party? Set out a bowl of pet-friendly treats for guests to give. Ask them to stick to those and not give your dog anything else.

Prevent escapes. After Independence Day, Halloween is the second most common time of year for pets to escape their homes. And that’s not surprising, given the number of times doors open and close for trick-or-treaters. Consider setting up a treat station in the yard so your dog doesn’t have a chance to slip out the door. You can also place a pet gate at the front door to prevent your dog from running out. Keep a bowl of small dog treats nearby, too, so you can reward your dog for good behavior when people are at the door.

Taking dogs trick-or-treating with the kids can be a fun twist on their regular walk, but it’s an opportunity for them to run off if they’re startled by a gaggle of ghosties and ghoulies. Be sure they have a good recall and are wearing a reflective vest or flashing collar or leash, as well as their normal identification tags and a microchip. Also consider going earlier in the evening, while there’s still some light.

Not all dogs are social animals or enjoy the sight of strange and wonderful beings—i.e., trick-or-treaters. If costumed revelers coming to the door are likely to make your dog howl in fear, set them up in an interior room away from the commotion with some treats and a favorite chew toy.

Fun Halloween Activities With Dogs

Besides putting them in costume, taking dogs trick-or-treating with you and the kids, or having them as costumed sidekicks at the door while you hand out candy, there are other fun ways to include dogs in the holiday. You can:

  • Visit a pumpkin patch.
  • Participate in a pet costume parade or contest if your dog has nice manners and enjoys attention.
  • Make homemade pumpkin dog treats.
  • Play treat hide and seek, placing treats around the house for your pet to find.
  • Share slices of apple spread with peanut butter, squeeze cheese, or plain yogurt.
  • Bob for treats.

Finally, if neither of you are fans of Halloween happenings, there’s nothing wrong with turning out the lights, snuggling on the sofa together, bowl of popcorn at hand, and streaming Hocus Pocus, Halloweentown, and Hotel Transylvania.

How often do you vaccinate for parvo?

By
Nancy Kerns
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24
Otto is a handsome boy and vaccinated for parvovirus.
It’s only anecdotal evidence, but Otto lived to nearly 16 years old in a household with many foster dogs and puppies from a local shelter. Despite never receiving a parvo vaccine after the age of 7 months, and even being exposed to a litter of foster puppies that developed parvo, he never contracted the disease. Antibody titer tests confirmed that he retained protective antibodies for years and years after his puppy vaccinations.

A trainer I admire who has a large social media presence asked her followers about how they manage their adult dogs’ vaccinations against parvovirus: Do they vaccinate once a year, once every three years, never, or titer and then decide?

I’m pretty sure she specified parvovirus to distinguish this vaccination from the only legally mandated vaccine (rabies) and because parvo is a ubiquitous and serious disease, and its vaccination is considered a “core” vaccine—recommended for all dogs, irrespective of lifestyle, unless there is a specific medical reason not to vaccinate.

I’m also sure that she specified vaccines for adult dogs because while there are a variety of puppy vaccination schedules that are more appropriate for puppies in different situations—from a breeding farm similar to a quarantine facility, to a backyard-breeder, to a shelter or rescue—there shouldn’t be any debate whatsoever about the fact that all puppies should receive their core vaccines (distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus, and perhaps also including parainfluenza). The guidelines published by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), which are followed by most veterinarians, recommends that puppies who are younger than 16 weeks old at the time of their first vaccination receive three doses of a combination shot containing the core vaccines between the ages of 6 and 16 weeks, with doses spaced two to four weeks apart. If the puppy is older than 16 weeks old at the time of his first vaccination, AAHA recommends that two combination core vaccinations, given two to four weeks apart.

AAHA recommends that adult dogs who have received those core puppy shots be revaccinated a year after the last puppy vaccinations, and every three years thereafter. This is a somewhat reduced schedule from decades ago, when most veterinarians would recommend giving all the core vaccines to every adult dog annually (and a few old-timers still do!).

Most people go along with their veterinarians’ recommendations, and most veterinarians follow the AAHA guidelines—but some owners do depart from these guidelines, which is what my trainer friend was trying to investigate.

She has not yet tabulated the results from her posts, but she invited people to comment with details about their vaccination protocols for their dogs and all I can say is, WOW! There is a ton of variation in how people deal with vaccination decisions.

Many dog owners, including myself, are concerned about the potential for adverse health effects from overvaccinating, and we seek to reduce the number of unnecessary vaccinations our dogs receive. In my view, the only responsible way to skip recommended vaccinations is to get a vaccine titer test, which can tell you if the dog has circulating antibodies for the diseases in question. If the test results indicate that the dog does possess circulating antibodies for the diseases tested for, the odds are very good that a “booster” vaccination is not needed.

When I adopted Otto in 2008, he had received 4 combination vaccinations, starting at an estimated 4 to 5 months old, and was about 7 months old. He proved to have moderate seasonal allergies, which was one of the reasons I decided to use titer tests, which I had been reading about (and writing about), to monitor his antibody levels before I made any core-vaccination decisions. (Some veterinarians speculate that dogs who have allergies are more prone to developing adverse reactions to vaccinations.)

I had parvo and distemper antibody titer tests performed for Otto in 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2017, and 2019, and every time, the results showed positive antibody titers, which is indicative of protection from those diseases—which I used as a justification to decline to vaccinate him for those core diseases. (He was never vaccinated for distemper and parvo after his youth in the shelter in 2008, and lived to nearly 16 years old.) He did receive the core rabies vaccinations that are required by law until his very last years (when I declined even those).

[Editor’s note: Many people have mentioned the high cost of using titer tests. I strongly recommend the Companion Animal Vaccines and Immuno-Diagnostic Service (CAVIDS) Laboratory at the University of Wisconsin, Madison, School of Veterinary Medicine. They charge just $50 for a distemper/parvo vaccine titer test. You do have to get your veterinarian to draw a blood sample (following the instructions on the CAVIDS Lab webpage) and either ship the sample yourself or ask your vet to ship it. Some vets will draw an extra blood sample during your dog’s regular health exam for a low fee; others ask more. You can mail (via Priority) or ship the sample directly the the lab, and the results will be sent to you and your veterinarian.]

I was fortunate in not having to ever board Otto—many boarding facilities refuse service unless a dog’s vaccines are current within three years—and I didn’t compete with him in any events where vaccines would have been required. However, every time we saw a new veterinarian, I would have to have a discussion with them about why I wasn’t giving him those core vaccines, and showing them all of his titer tests (or agreeing to a new test). Although this was somewhat costly, I felt like I was doing my part to educate his veterinarians about the value of antibody titer tests and why continually revaccinating healthy adult dogs is perhaps not necessary.

I didn’t participate in my trainer friend’s poll or leave a comment, though I will be interested to see the results. I am curious, though, if WDJ’s readers will mirror her followers’ results, or if they would vary. If you’re read this far, please comment!

How often do you vaccinate your adult dog for parvovirus? (Let’s not talk about puppies, rabies, or non-core vaccines in this discussion.)

My Dog Is Throwing Up Undigested Food

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Miniature Schnauzers have a genetic marker that makes them more predisposed to throw up undigested food.
Primary megaesophagus shows up in puppies. The Wire-Haired Fox Terrier (pictured) and Miniature Schnauzer breeds have a genetic marker for the disease.

Your dog stands up and quietly deposits his dinner from three hours ago on the rug. You panic—both for your dog and the rug!—but your dog seems fine otherwise. This type of throwing up is called “regurgitation.” It’s not vomiting.

When your dog vomits, he actively brings up food from his stomach. That means the food must pass through the gastroesophageal opening and go all the way up the esophagus. His sides move in and out, he makes the classic retching noises that can wake you up from a sound sleep. There is often bile mixed in the partially digested food.

With regurgitation, the food he ate has not passed into his stomach. For a variety of reasons, it is sitting in the esophagus, undigested. This type of throwing up has little warning before it comes up. You might hear a quiet burp as he lowers his head. There are no strenuous abdominal contractions.

Why Is My Dog Throwing Up Undigested Food?

Regurgitation is a classic sign of megaesophagus, a GI motility disorder. In this condition, the muscles and nerves of the esophagus are not normal, so the important motility required to move food along is absent. As food sits in the esophagus, the esophagus will stretch over time (hence, “mega” esophagus). Other causes include abnormalities of the vessels of the heart that block the progression of food and anything that blocks the opening of the esophagus into the stomach.

Some endocrine disorders like hypothyroidism are connected to regurgitation, as is myasthenia gravis, an autoimmune disease associated with muscle weakness. But not all dogs who gulp food voraciously are ill. If your dog throws up infrequently, you can chart the occasions to see if there is a trigger, such as eating too fast.

Puppies Throwing Up

Primary megaesophagus is a congenital problem noted in puppies when they switch over from nursing and liquid food to solid foods. You will notice failure to thrive and gain weight as well as regurgitation. A serious problem can develop from aspiration pneumonia as the affected dogs seem hardly aware that food is coming back up. Aspiration pneumonia is a life-threatening concern.

Megaesophagus has been shown to be of genetic origin in Wire Hair Fox Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers. Other breeds prone to this condition include German Shepherd Dogs, Great Danes, and Labrador Retrievers.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis depends on history and radiographs. If a plain X-ray is not definitive, a contrast study with barium may be recommended.

Treatment

Dogs with megaesophagus can be managed but are not cured.

You may hear of sildenafil (Viagra) being used as an off-label treatment for megaesophagus in dogs. A 2017 study published in The Veterinary Record showed sildenafil “could represent a novel therapeutic tool for the treatment” of idiopathic/congenital megaesophagus, but a 2022 study published in the American Journal of Veterinary Research,  was less positive, concluding that: “There were no differences in esophageal clearance times or quality-of life-scores between sildenafil and placebo.”

Basically, treatment for megaesophagus in dogs requires your commitment. Any underlying conditions such as endocrine disorders need to be dealt with, but often the esophagus will not totally recover.

That means daily, lifelong care by you. You must be observant for the slightest sign of aspiration pneumonia as that is often the cause of death.

Some dogs will do fairly well with a certain texture of food, such as a slurry or multiple small “meatballs.” The diet must be high quality and high calorie, so you don’t need to feed large meals.

Most often these dogs need to be fed elevated and kept elevated for at least 15 minutes after eating. The simplest way to feed your dog is with a step stool, with him on his hind legs and his food bowl on a higher step.

Many families choose to go with a Bailey chair. These chairs keep your dog upright to eat and for the “holding time” postprandial (the immediate time after eating). You can purchase one or make your own via plans.

How to Tell If Your Dog Is Playing or Fighting

By
Dan Muse
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You can tell if dogs are playing or fighting by closely observing their body language.
Dogs play rough, and things can escalate into a fight quickly. These two are having a good time, but the owners should be aware of signs that indicate a brewing fight and end the interaction immediately.

At a quick glance, dog play and dog fights appear similar. However, there are telltale signs and changes in body language that dog owners need to understand to distinguish between intense, but fun, play and actual aggression and fear-based reactions.

Dogs that are playing often exhibit loose, bouncy movements and relaxed facial expressions. Their ears might be perked up or floppy. Playing dogs may be vocal, but those vocalizations typically include excited barks, yips, or even playful growls. These sounds are often exaggerated and accompanied by other playful behaviors. Dog play is important for training and development. However, things can turn aggressive quickly, which is why dog owners need to remain vigilant.

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Are Dogs Playing or Fighting?

It’s important to note that even playful interactions can sometimes escalate into fights, especially if one or both dogs are feeling stressed, overexcited, or threatened. “While excited barking and other vocalizations are signs of play, if they are sustained, not welcomed too intense, they can also cause things to escalate, says Allie Bender, a dog behavior consultant and the co-author of “Canine Enrichment for the Real World.”

Sometimes other environmental triggers cause escalation (e.g., a person walking by, a car passing). “Another dog entering the environment can absolutely change the dynamics. Really any environmental change can cause changes in behavior. And then there are kiddos who don’t yet have self-regulation skills and escalate because they can’t calm themselves back down from playing well,” Bender says.

Signs of dogs at play

Things to watch for that signal healthy play, according to Shelter Playgroup Alliance protocol and Bender, include:

  • Wagging tails, especially when accompanied by other playful behaviors.
  • Playful growls or barks that often accompanied by a happy expression on the dog’s face.
  • Playful nipping is a common form of play, but it should be gentle.
  • Play bows, where they lower their front end while keeping their rear end raised. This is a clear signal of playful intent.
  • Taking turns being dominant or submissive. They may chase each other, wrestle, or engage in mock biting.
  • No sustained aggression or intent to harm. Playful interactions generally involve brief periods of aggression followed by playful behaviors and rest.

Signs Your Dog Is Aggressive (Or About To Be)

To get ahead of a fight, watch for signals that things are getting serious:

  • Tense muscles, raised hackles, and a stiff tail are often signs of aggression or fear.
  • Intense sustained growls or snarls and pinned ears are often a sign of aggression or submission.
  • Aggressive behavior during otherwise playful biting or nipping, especially if excessive or accompanied by other aggressive behaviors.
  • Growling or snarling is a common sign of aggression, especially when accompanied by other aggressive behaviors.
  • Baring teeth is another sign of aggression, and it is often accompanied by growling or snarling.
  • Lunging or biting is the most obvious sign of aggression, and it should always be taken seriously.
  • Stiff rigid bodies. Aggressive dogs often have a stiff or rigid body, and they may also have their ears pinned back or their tail tucked under their body.

If things do escalate, it’s important to quickly and safely break up the dog fight. How quickly depends on where the interactions are taking place and who’s involved.

“For me, what point to step in depends on the situation. For example, if two dogs who have lived together for years are playing and I know they have a history of appropriate communication and healthy play skills I may wait longer to step in if I see yellow flags,” Bender says.

How to Tell If Puppies Are Playing or Fighting

Puppies introduce a different dynamic. If you are dealing with young dogs who don’t have a relationship and are playing at a dog park, daycare, or a new play date, you may want act sooner. “In those situations, I may interrupt more frequently than is necessary, even before there are yellow flags. That way I’m encouraging them to take breaks and giving everyone a moment to regroup before choosing to engage in play again,” Benders says.

Remember, if you’re concerned about your dog’s behavior or interactions with other dogs, it’s always a good idea to consult with a veterinarian or animal behaviorist. They can provide personalized advice and help you address any issues you may be facing.

How Much Does It Cost to Own a Dog?

By
Dan Muse
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0
The cost of owning a dog can be substantial, but it's worth it in companionship.
Dogs are a financial responsibility, but they pay you back with unconditional love every single day.

Few things are as rewarding as bringing a dog into your family. They bring us companionship, unconditional love, a reason to stay active and much more much. Like your other children, however, dogs bring inherent expenses and it’s important to understand the financial commitments so you can budget for the known costs.

While the cost of dog ownership can vary significantly depending on factors such as the dog’s breed, size, age, and lifestyle, there are various expenses associated with owning a dog you can anticipate, helping you make an informed decision about how and what dog you add to your family.

“Prospective dog owners should prepare for both initial and ongoing monthly expenses when budgeting for dog ownership. Plan for an initial budget of approximately $400 to over $4,000, depending on whether you adopt or purchase a dog from breeder,” says Dr. Bethany Hsia, a veterinarian and co-founder of CodaPet, a startup that supports a network of veterinarians providing at-home end-of-life pet care services.

“On a recurring monthly basis, a pet parent can expect costs of about $100 to over $400, factoring in food, basic veterinary care, grooming, training, insurance and potential pet sitting/boarding services,” says Dr. Hsia.

While we recommend pet insurance, as the cost of veterinary services is high and getting higher, at the very least you should, “set aside an emergency fund specifically for unexpected veterinary expenses that could arise due to accidents or illnesses,” says Dr. Hsia.

Initial Costs for Dog Owners

Adoption and breeder fees can vary greatly depending on the breed and the path you take. Adoption fees at shelters can range from $50 to $500, while purebred puppies from reputable breeders can cost anywhere from $1,500 to over $10,000.

Spaying and neutering costs typically ranging from $100 to $500, depending on your location and the sex of your dog. If you adopt a dog, many of these expenses may have been paid by the original owner or are covered by the shelter or rescue organization.

Additional starting costs include:

  • Initial veterinary check-up and vaccinations. Plan on spending $200 to $400 for the first vet visit, which will include a checkup and essential vaccinations like rabies, distemper, parvovirus, and bordetella. Microchipping your dog is a vital safety measure and typically costs $50 to $75. Again, if you are adopting, some of those expenses may be covered.
  • Basic supplies. A dog bed, water and food bowls, toys, a leash and collar, and a crate or kennel are $150 to $550. Basic supplies such as a dog bed can range from $30 to $150, water bowls run $10 to $30, toys cost $10 to $50, a leash and collar can range from $20 to $40, and a crate will cost $50 to $250.

Monthly Costs of Owning a Dog

Average monthly costs can be tough to estimate. They certainly include a veterinarian, food, and preventative medications, training. Depending on you, however, there can be a lot more on the monthly tab. Consider:

  • Veterinary care. Routine veterinary care (regular check-ups, vaccinations) average about $200 to $400 annually or approximately $17 to $33 monthly. Unexpected health issues can dramatically increase this cost. Consider pet insurance for your dog, which can help offset these costs. Costs will vary depending on your dog’s breed, age, and overall health.
  • Choosing high-quality food appropriate for your dog’s breed, age, and activity level is essential. Expect to spend anywhere from $30 to $100 per month on dog food, depending on the size and breed of your dog.
  • Preventative medications. Heartworm prevention medication and flea and tick control are essential to keep your dog healthy. These medications typically cost $50-$100 per month.
  • Investing in obedience training can lead to a happier and more well-adjusted dog. Group classes typically cost $50 to $100 per session, while private training can cost between $100 to $200 for a series of training sessions, with ongoing training or behavior consultations potentially adding another monthly expense of around $20 to $100.
  • Costs depend on the breed; basic grooming services can range from $30 to $90 every four to eight weeks, totaling about $15 to $45 monthly.
  • Pet insurance. Pet insurance premiums typically range from $20 to over $100 per month depending on coverage levels and the dog’s age and breed. The sooner you insure your dog, the better.
  • Pet sitters or boarding. If you travel frequently or live alone without family in the area, pet sitting services can cost around $25 to $50 per day, while boarding facilities may charge between $30 to $100 per night.

Life With Dogs Happens

While it’s impossible to pinpoint the precise monthly and annual costs of owning a dog, according to an often-cited study of 1,200 pets owners and 100 veterinarians by Synchrony, the yearly cost of dog ownership is between $1,270 and $2,803 with lifetime cost of caring for a dog between $20,000 to $55,000.

Life happens, and our pets are a part of our lives. Unexpected illnesses or injuries can quickly lead to hefty vet bills.

While the financial responsibility is significant, the rewards of dog ownership are immeasurable. The companionship and joy a dog bring can enrich your life in countless ways. You can’t put a price on unconditional love.

Why Do Dogs Roll in Poop?

By
Jessica Peralta
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0
Why do dogs roll in poop? It seems to be an instinct to mask or mark their scent.
Even though it is a normal canine behavior, seeing a dog rolling in the grass can trigger alarm bells for owners whose dogs regularly roll in poop and dead things. Credit: Purple Collar Pet Photography | Getty Images

Most pet owners have undoubtedly witnessed the rather unsavory sight of a dog rolling in poop or dead things. But why do they do it?

While there is not yet a scientific explanation for this behavior, there are theories.

“I am not aware of any scientific studies that have been done looking at why dogs do this, or how common it is,” says Dr. Melissa Bain, a veterinary behavior specialist and professor of clinical animal behavior at UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. “One thought is that it is an evolutionary behavior, in which a dog will mask its scent with feces. It generally is the feces of another animal, not of dogs. There is also a hypothesis that it may be scent marking. Instead of the thought that they are depositing the odor onto themselves, they are depositing their odor onto the feces to mark their territory.”

“Wolves and wild dogs used to roll in poop to mask their scent, which is useful when hiding from predators and sneaking up on prey,” agrees Dr. Ivana Crnec, of Veterinarians.org. “Modern dogs, despite evolving past the need to hide and hunt, are still true to their ancestral heritage.”

Dr. Crnec noted that rolling in poop and dead things is very common in dogs.

“Dogs roll in their own feces and poop from other animals like cowpats and fox poop,” she says. “Interestingly, rolling is not limited to poop. In fact, dogs enjoy rolling in all types of smelly, organic matter.”

What To Do About Dogs Who Roll in Poop

Dr. Bain says if dog owners witness poop rolling, there’s likely not much to be done.

“Likely there is not a whole lot to do in the moment aside from trying to get the dog away from the area by calling the dog away and rewarding [her] with a high-value treat,” says Dr. Bain. “However, that high-value treat may not be any better than the feces in which the dog is rolling. In that case, they should either ignore the dog [or] walk away.”

She says prevention is key to keeping dogs from rolling in poop.

“Keeping the dog on leash will almost always prevent these incidents,” she says. “This is especially important if you know that you are going to an area such as a barn. If the dog is rolling in things in their yard, they should be sure to keep the yard clean.”

She says it’s generally not harmful to a healthy dog, but there may be parasites or other infectious diseases in the feces that can be transmitted to the individual dog, other dogs, or people.

“This would be if [the] feces were to be ingested inadvertently,” she says. “It also can be stressful for some owners when they continually have to clean up the dog and the house, especially if the dog doesn’t like baths.”

Dogs Roll in Poop

However gross it may seem to humans, rolling in poop is pretty normal dog behavior.

Dr. Crnec says there is no determined pattern for dogs rolling in poop and the habit is seen in all breeds, ages, and genders.

“However, interestingly, regular rolling is more common in certain breeds such as Labrador and Golden Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels, Jack Russell Terriers, and mixed-breed dogs,” she says.

How Much Do Dogs Understand Humans?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dogs can understand humans, at least in part. How much they understand is still a topic of research.
While there are some limits to how much dogs can understand humans, most can figure out quite a lot when it comes to cross-species communication. Credit: chris-mueller | Getty Images

Any dog lover will tell you that their dog can understand them to one degree or another. We communicate with our dogs via words, facial expressions, hand signals, and body language, and our dogs respond.

And science is catching up to what we experience every day! Studies prove that dogs can understand our words and facial expressions. Some of this understanding is learned over time through life experience or intentional training, but some of it is innate.

Exactly how much dogs understand what we say and do can be difficult to measure, but we are starting to see more complex studies that are looking at how dogs interpret more abstract concepts, and even how they can learn to use language to “talk” back to us.

Can Dogs Understand Humans?

Absolutely. Dogs definitely learn the meaning of individual words and phrases (such as objects, names of people or other pets, and verbal cues that indicate a behavior or action), and understand our tone, facial expressions, and body language such as pointing.

For example, pointing at a toy and saying, “Get it!” uses several different types of communication. Your dog has likely already been taught that “get it” means to grab a toy and bring it to you. The presence of a toy in the room backs up that understanding, and by pointing, you are indicating which toy you want retrieved.

Most of our communication with our dogs is made up of these mixed-media interactions. Over time, this can develop into a unique “language” shared only between you and your dog—your unique relationship with your dog, from your experiences together to your knowledge of her breed and upbringing, all come together to form the human-animal bond and your ability to communicate with each other.

While there is overlap between many dog-human pairs, there are also things that only make sense to specific duos. For example, many dogs have been taught the cue “sit.” If you walk up to a strange dog and say, “Sit,” the dog will probably respond in kind. But your dog may also know something that other dogs don’t. For example, my dog has learned that three taps means to move to a different spot on the bed. If I tapped a strange dog, odds are he would think I didn’t know how to pet properly.

And it isn’t just context that allows our dogs to understand what we are saying. One study looked an MRI imaging of dogs’ brains when they were shown an object and a person said either the name of the object or something else (for example, held up a ball but said, “bowl”). The same parts of the brain lit up in dogs when shown a mismatched pair as happens with humans! The dogs clearly recognized when a familiar object was paired with the wrong but still familiar word.

Talking Buttons for Dogs

The development of talking buttons has been a fun evolution in how dogs understand humans and communicate back. The idea originally came from a series of buttons used to help children learn language.

You can teach your dog a word or phrase, and then record it onto a button and teach the dog to press the button. For example, your dog might press, “Outside,” when she needs to go out to pee. Or she might press, “Hungry” to request a treat.

Talking buttons have become popular all over the world, and some dogs have made amazing connections when communicating with their people. As dogs learn more words, their people add additional buttons to their boards.

A study just published in August 2024 used button boards to show that dogs know the meaning of the words without any context clues being given. For example, many of us ask our dogs if they want to go for a walk as we stand up and head for the door. Our dogs could be responding to the word “walk,” but could also just be responding to our body language indicating that we are heading outside and want the dog to come with. This study broke that down.

For the study, each dog’s button boards were covered so the experimenter didn’t know which one they were pressing. The experimenter then pressed a button and stayed still, while a second experimenter recorded what the dog did in response. The dogs responded appropriately to both words that indicated playtime (by grabbing a toy) or going outside (headed toward the door).

Do as I Do

Another innovative means of communicating with your dog is the “Do as I Do” method. Trainers who use Do as I Do teach their dogs to mimic their movements. This is called social learning because the dog is learning to perform a behavior by watching their person do it first.

Researchers in Italy have done several studies with dogs trained to Do as I Do, including one that compared how quickly and well dogs learned a new task through either shaping (clicker training) or Do as I Do. The task for this study was opening the sliding door of a cabinet. Handlers using shaping would gradually shape the dog to touch and then move the cabinet door, while the handlers using Do as I Do would demonstrate opening the door and then ask the dogs to, “Do it!” The dogs who knew Do as I Do were able to master the behavior faster, and had good memory of how to do it 24 hours later, even in a new location.

Limitations of Speech When Communicating With Dogs

While dogs can understand humans to a point, there are limits. Once we get into full sentences and abstract concepts, things seem to break down for our canine companions.

Dogs have been shown to know the difference between a familiar spoken language and nonsense words, and the difference between different languages. A few dogs can learn basic syntax, or the arrangement of words to change meaning. For example, your dog may be able to understand instructions like, “Take the ball to Peter,” or “Bring the elephant to the chair.”

Another concept that dogs seem to struggle with is learning the name of something that they can’t see by observing a human talking about it. A small trial with four dogs placed different toys in buckets so that the dogs couldn’t see them, and then each dog’s owner looked in a bucket and said the name of the item several times. Then the buckets were dumped so the dogs could see all of the toys briefly. The toys were then placed in another room and the dogs were asked to fetch the named toy. It didn’t go particularly well, though one dog may have been figuring out the game.

So while your dog probably won’t be debating philosophy with you any time soon, some genius pups may understand a little more than the average dog.

How Many Words Do Dogs Understand?

We don’t have any controlled studies evaluating how many words dogs can learn, but we do have lots of anecdotal reports. You have probably heard of Rico the Border Collie who knew over 200 words, and Chaser the Border Collie who knew over 1000 words!

Researchers collected information on how many words people’s dogs knew via an online survey. This study found that on average, dogs know the meaning of 89 words. Owners who participated in the study felt that their dogs understood at least 15 words, with the most accomplished dog in the group knowing 215 words. Herding breed dogs (like those overachieving Border Collies) and toy-companion breeds generally had the most extensive vocabularies.

Body Language is Where It’s At

Dog language is mostly made up of body language. And they read our body language very well.

Dogs understand human facial expressions quite well, especially the basics of a friendly expression versus an angry or threatening one. The more time a dog spends interacting with humans, the better she gets at reading emotional expressions. Dogs are especially good at reading the faces of people they know well, but they can also read other people’s expressions. Even free-roaming stray dogs read human expressions and then use that information to make decisions.

As well as expressions, dogs also understand our posture and many of our gestures, like pointing.

Unfortunately, humans are not as good at reading dog body language. Countless videos online show dogs giving signals that they are uncomfortable, and the humans continuing what they were doing anyway. In many cases the person is hugging the dog or petting her too forcefully.

Some dogs do come to enjoy hugs from their owners and close human friends, but many dogs do not understand nor enjoy this type of contact. Consider how you would feel if a stranger just walked up to you and hugged you tight. You would probably feel confused, stressed, and trapped. The dog only gets more distressed when her signals of being nervous are ignored.

Dogs show many of the same signs of stress as we do—tense posture, dilated pupils, rapid breathing, and either extreme stillness or constant fidgeting. A happy, relaxed dog, on the other hand, will show loose body posture and a happy wagging tail.

Other Ways to Communicate With Your Dog

Use your imagination to come up with other ways to communicate with your dog—and vice versa!

Most of my dogs ask to come back inside from the yard by barking. But my youngest dog, Bruni, preferred to smash the door. To save both her growing elbows and my door, I taught her to press a doorbell at dog nose height to ask to come in. Now I can get things done in the house while she plays outside, and then when she’s ready to come in, she rings her doorbell.

As our dogs age, we may need to come up with ways other than spoken words to communicate. When I start to notice signs of hearing loss in my older dogs, I start teaching them to come to a blinking light. When the dogs are out in the yard at bedtime, I flick the lights three times, then call them in. This basic pairing teaches the dog that flicking lights equals “come.” By the time my senior dog’s hearing is gone completely, she already understands the light system to call her in.

And don’t overlook body language and signals. The “slow blink” is a well-know calming signal for dogs. If your dog seems a little stressed and you want to reassure her, make eye contact and then slowly blink. This signals to her that everything is okay and you are relaxed enough to take your eyes off the situation. When working with a stressed dog who doesn’t know you, you can make her feel more at ease by angling your body to the side and making sure your posture is loose. This helps her to feel less pressure and less threatened.

Bottom Line

Dogs really can understand humans quite a bit, from body language and facial expressions to words and phrases and our vocal tones. But while a few talented dogs may learn to understand some more complex syntax, most dogs tap out when you get to complete sentences and abstract concepts.

Liver Cancer in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Liver cancer in dogs is a slow process that requires you to pay attention to your dog's quality of life.
With liver cancer, the question of euthanasia will be raised. It’s a decision that requires you to “listen” to your dog. Credit: Artur Debat | Getty Images

Primary liver, or hepatic, cancer is rare in dogs. Most commonly, a dog who develops a mass in the liver has a secondary (metastatic) cancer. Still, any liver tumor should be diagnosed and not ignored.

True liver cancer tends to grow slowly, but your dog can be uncomfortable and feel sick. Many metastatic cancers that settle in the liver, such as hemangiosarcoma, have shorter survival times and may be painful. Keep in mind your dog’s quality of life when making decisions about euthanasia due to liver cancer.

Many dogs will do well for months, or even years, despite having hepatic malignancy. You should be alert to changes such as the development of jaundice and lethargy. Loss of appetite and weakness can both signal that your dog is losing his battle with cancer.

Track his quality-of-life status. Is he eating? Can he still do the things he loves, like taking hikes in the woods or chasing his ball (even if you roll it for now)? Be prepared to schedule euthanasia for his sake, despite your pain.

Liver Cancer Symptoms

Common liver cancer symptoms in dogs are nonspecific with a few caveats. Many dogs will be “off.” They may seem nauseous, have a lack of appetite, and are lethargic or depressed.

Abdominal pain is often evident on palpation. Gastrointestinal upsets may occur. Some dogs will have weight loss but appear normal due to fluid buildup in the abdomen. Liver cancer can strike at any age but is mostly seen in older dogs.

If your dog becomes jaundiced, a liver problem jumps to the top of the list of possible reasons. Jaundice, or icterus, is associated with the destruction of red blood cells, liver disease, or gallbladder problems, particularly problems with the bile duct. With jaundice, you will notice a yellow discoloration to gums, the inside of ears, pale skin in the groin area, and in the sclera of the eyes.

Another sign pointing toward liver disease is neurological problems, which can range from zombie-like behavior to full-blown seizures.

Metastatic cancers in the liver tend to follow clinical signs of the primary cancer. For example, with hemangiosarcoma, your dog’s liver may be fragile, and he may suffer from periodic bleed outs, which can be fatal.

Types of Liver Cancer in Dogs

Hepatocellular adenocarcinoma: The most common type of primary liver cancer in dogs is hepatocellular adenocarcinoma. Hepatocelluar adenocarcinoma accounts for about 50% of all primary liver cancers in dogs. Male dogs are more prone to this type of liver cancer than females. If confined to one lobe of the liver and removed early on, this cancer can be controlled. Masses in the left lobe are easier for surgery.

Left to grow, the cancer cells may spread to other organs or cause bleeding into the abdomen. Liver failure is possible if the cancer grows unchecked as the tumor cells will overtake the normal liver cells and reduce liver function. If the mass has spread beyond one lobe, the prognosis is poor.

Hepatocellular adenoma: This is a benign version of hepatocellular adenocarcinoma. It is unlikely to spread, so surgical removal tends to be easier and can be curative. Despite being slow growing, it should be removed to proactively prevent rupture with a subsequent bleed out.

Bile-duct carcinoma: This is the second-most common primary liver cancer in dogs. Some might argue that these are gallbladder cancers, but many originate within the liver. Female dogs are more likely to get this form of hepatic cancer. Bile-duct carcinomas have a high rate of metastasis. They can also be tricky to totally remove surgically.

Hemangiosarcoma: The most common secondary or metastatic cancer in the liver is hemangiosarcoma. There are few options for treating hemangiosarcoma, and currently none of them are highly successful. The primary site, often the spleen or heart, would need to be treated as well. Plus, it’s important to consider the fact that it has already obviously spread to the liver, which means there is microscopic spread elsewhere. Palliative and hospice care is often your best option for this cancer.

Diagnosing Liver Cancer

A diagnosis of liver cancers usually involves a blood chemistry panel with elevated liver enzyme values and/or an ultrasound exam showing a liver mass. Special blood chemistry tests such as bile acids may be run.

Radiographs are not as helpful as an ultrasound exam. A biopsy is required for a definitive diagnosis. Since the liver is involved in most clotting pathways, care must be taken with any surgery on the liver, even a needle biopsy. A coagulation profile is routinely recommended before any invasive procedure.

Metastases Affect Treatment Options

Once the type of cancer is determined, treatment options will be discussed. A plus to the liver is that it has multiple lobes and amazing regenerative powers. If your dog’s cancer is confined to one area, surgery may be done to remove the tumor. Your dog can easily get along with a lobe, or even two, of his liver removed.

Before undertaking any surgery, your dog should be fully evaluated for metastases. This evaluation should include X-rays of the lungs. Histopathologic evaluation of nearby lymph nodes should be done, if possible.

The ideal treatment for liver cancer is surgery. However, if there has already been metastasis, surgery is not recommended. Chemotherapy has not been highly effective with liver cancer in dogs, but radiation, either before surgery to reduce the size of the mass, or post-surgery if there aren’t clear margins, can prolong survival.

Corticosteroids and palliative radiation can gain some quality time for your canine companion.

Supportive care is important. Liver supplements such as milk thistle may help the healthy liver tissues maintain normal functions. Keeping your dog in good physical shape is always a plus, which means appropriate exercise, other supplements for joint health and cognitive care, and a good diet.

Vaccinations

Currently, there is lots of research into immunotherapy and vaccines for various cancers. There is nothing definitive for liver cancer at this time, although hemangiosarcomas have stimulated lots of interest.

Preventing liver cancer, other than vaccinating for canine hepatitis (included in most multi-vaccines), is non-specific. Avoiding unnecessary exposures to toxins such as avoiding herbicide usage on your property can help.

As with any cancer, report any physical changes in your dog or unusual behavior immediately. Early detection and treatment remain our best weapons against liver cancer, or any cancer, for that matter.

Sorting Through My Books

By
Nancy Kerns
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8
Books are beloved stores of information for dog training, and for dog owners.
Here are 96 pounds worth of essential reference books, headed to WDJ’s new editor.

Here’s a sign of changing times: I am working to reduce the amount of stuff in my office, and my bookshelves are my current target. For years, I have held to my limit of three 6-foot by 3-foot shelves to hold my resource library of dog-related books, but as I reduce my responsibilities for WDJ, I would like to gain space in my office for other uses.

Keeping my book collection to only three tall shelves has taken ongoing effort. At least once a year, I’ve had to give the shelves a critical pruning, throwing away titles that contained either incomplete or poor information and donating to my local library books that were of good quality, but not something that I planned to refer to again and again.

 

The books that contain incontrovertibly useful, accurate information—the ones that I still consult when in doubt about someone’s facts, or to check their spelling or description of a medical condition—I have boxed up and mailed to WDJ’s new Executive Editor, Kate O’Connor. With a receipt from the United States Postal Service in hand, I can tell you that I have shipped 96 pounds of books to Kate. Some are veterinary school textbooks—massive, weighty tomes that we use to fact-check articles. Some are expert compilations of information on using herbs, nutritional supplements, massage, acupressure, and other alternative or complementary healthcare methods. All of the books written by Pat Miller, WDJ’s guiding light on training and behavior for many years—Kate can use these to make sure WDJ’s training advice is consistent and clear.

The best place for bad or incomplete books for
: I had kept, but am now recycling, an embarrassing amount of bad dog books; there is no sense in shipping or donating bad or incomplete information.

There were many, many books that contain great information on specific topics: caring for senior dogs, managing kids and dogs, doing agility with dogs, teaching tricks to dogs, puppy training, dealing with housetraining problems, and so on—way too many books to send to Kate, but also, probably far too many to donate to my local library. Happily, my friend Sarah Richardson, owner of The Canine Connection (a boarding, daycare, and training facility in Chico, California), said she would be happy to host a dog-book lending-library at her facility, and so I delivered several boxes of books there. I am thrilled to know that I can visit the books there and even borrow some back if need be.

As much as I want to clear my bookshelves entirely, I kept finding myself holding onto certain books—even ones that I know Kate would find helpful. There are a bunch of books about pet food that I can’t part with yet; I know I will be referring to them for years to come. I also kept books written by people who have either become my friends, or who feel like old friends because of my familiarity of appreciation for their words. And I couldn’t yet part with a small stack of books on canine cancer that I haven’t had time to fully explore yet.

Some books are irreplaceable and worth keeping just for your personal reference.
I’m not ready to part with some parts of my library, such as this stack of books on canine cancer. I still want to absorb some of this information so I can write about it in the future.

So, beyond just two shelves of the books I’ve kept, now all I have to do is slowly file the rest of the books into my recycling barrel. You see, in addition to all the books I loved and consulted, over the years, I also kept several shelves of really bad books for reference. Do you know how many books of recipes for home-prepared dog diets are out there that fail to provide complete and balanced recipes for dogs? SO MANY BAD RECIPE BOOKS! Many of them provide recipes that lack ingredients that supply critical minerals, some omit discussion of customizing recipes for dogs with health problems, some fail to address the needs of large-breed puppies, and others omit measurements of protein, fat, or calories provided by the recipes they publish.

Hey! We need to publish an updated article about the BEST books on home-prepared diets (was our last article on that topic really in 2011??). I’ll talk to Kate about that.

I also kept bad training books for occasional reference—usually, when I was just trying to track down the source of some garbage advice or theory, such as the idea that owners should eat before their dogs are served, or how pinch collars replicate a mother dog’s grasp on her errant puppies’ scruff.

But honestly, I think the recycling bin is the best spot for the bad books; while they couldn’t cause any trouble on my shelves, I wouldn’t want them to inadvertently fall into the wrong hands.

How Long Is Kennel Cough Contagious?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Kennel cough is very contagious and you need to keep your dog isolated until you're sure it is gone.
Kennel cough will spread rapidly among a group of dogs if even just one of them is sick. Credit: Foto Zlatko | Getty Images

Most dogs recover from kennel cough in two to three weeks, but if your dog is still coughing you need to assume he might be contagious. To be truly safe from being the bane of your dog’s social circle, I would keep him out of his activities for a week after the last cough. While this may seem like an excess of caution, it is far better than spreading the illness to other canine households.

The classic sign of kennel cough is a dry, honking cough, possibly with a little gagging. The coughing can irritate the respiratory tract. If the illness is complicated by a bacterial or viral infection, the dog may have a fever, congestion, nasal discharge, lethargy, and a lack of appetite. A diagnosis from your veterinarian is money well spent in these cases.

How Long Is Kennel Cough Contagious?

Everyone wants a nice black and white answer to how long kennel cough is contagious, but there simply isn’t one. Part of the problem is that kennel cough can be caused by a variety of bacteria and viruses (that’s also why it’s been renamed “canine infectious respiratory disease” or CIRD). Each cause has a different course of illness.

Kennel cough is very contagious. One sneeze or cough can spread illness via droplets directly or by coating the environment, including blankets, dishes, and toys. One sick dog can potentially infect an entire kennel, shelter, or daycare.  If your unvaccinated dog has been exposed to a dog with active kennel cough, the odds are that your dog will get ill. Even vaccinated dogs may get kennel cough but, as with the human flu vaccine, symptoms tend to be milder, and recovery is faster.

Kennel Cough and Antibiotics

Most cases of kennel cough are not treated with antibiotics. If your dog’s case is purely viral, antibiotics will have no effect. If your veterinarian suspects the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica is involved, an antibiotic makes sense.

In these cases, doxycycline is the most likely antibiotic to be prescribed. Once your dog starts an appropriately prescribed antibiotic, you should see clinical improvement in 24 to 72 hours. Theoretically, contagiousness should decrease by then, too, but I would still hold to the “no cough for a week” standard before allowing your dog near other dogs.

A pure, viral kennel cough is non-productive and dry. If your dog’s cough changes to a “wet” cough, as in coughs up discharge or has quite a bit of nasal discharge, he probably has a secondary infection and may progress to pneumonia. Difficulty breathing and a fever are signs that pneumonia may be involved. If a secondary infection like this has set in, an antibiotic such as doxycycline may come into play.

Healing from Kennel Cough

As your dog’s system fights off the virus or bacterial cause, he still needs time for tissue healing. Often his respiratory tract is inflamed or irritated from the coughing. This is why your veterinarian recommends keeping him quiet and using a harness as opposed to a collar while he is ill. The worst case of kennel cough I have had was a young Golden Retriever who coughed for six weeks. I suspect his exercise was not restricted as I had instructed the owner, so he simply kept irritating his trachea and coughing.

Most of the recommended care is supportive. The use of nebulizers or vaporizers, even just shutting your dog in the bathroom while you shower, can help irritated tissues. While many dogs don’t require cough medications, you can discuss the use of an antitussive such as guaifenesin (Mucinex) or simply use a small bit of honey, which can help dogs with a severe cough.

If your dog appears to be ill, or getting worse, he may need veterinary attention. Cases that move on to pneumonia may require hospitalization with IV fluids and supplemental oxygen.

Prevent Kennel Cough

The best solution is to vaccinate your dog for at least Bordetella and parainfluenza, adding canine influenza if there is an outbreak in your area or your dog goes to dog activities with dogs from all over (sports events, training classes, and dog shows). Outdoor events have lower risk than big indoor events, just as in places people get COVID.

Remember, while some dogs with kennel cough sound horrible but most recover with home care. Be courteous to fellow dog lovers, and if your dog is coughing, keep him home.

How to Get a Sick Dog to Drink Water

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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1
Getting a sick dog to drink water can be a challenge but there are several ways to encourage drinking.
Most dogs prefer fresh, cool water in a clean dish. Changing water every day and cleaning the water bowl are important to ensuring he drinks well. Credit: Alexei Tn | Getty Images

Whether your dog is sick, feeling a little off, or has an acute or chronic illness that makes him avoid water, he still needs to drink enough to stay hydrated. Dehydration is a serious state you want to avoid!

Getting a sick dog to drink can be tough to do, but we have ways to entice a dog to drink. Start with the most basic requirement: Cool, clean, and fresh water. If I notice one of my dogs drinking, I get up when he is done and rinse and refill the bowl. My older male Belgian Tervuren leaves the water bowl rather “slimy,” and my girls prefer a clean bowl and water. In hot weather, many dogs will drink more if you put some ice in their bowl.

Note: An elderly dog or any dog post dental work might prefer room-temperature water, as cool or cold water might be painful.

Flavorings for Dog Water

Beyond cool and fresh, you can add some flavoring to see if that helps increase your sick dog’s water intake. You can try:

Low-sodium bouillon. A small amount of bouillon in the water bowl is a tasty option with a nice aroma that even provides a little nutrition.

Tuna juice. Many dogs love the juice from tuna canned in water. The tuna juice also has an inviting smell that may inspire a sick dog to drink.

Chicken soup. We all laugh about chicken soup for sick people, but the attractive odor will get many a dog to lap some up. Once again, you provide a few nutrients, too. Just be sure to test that it is not hot!

Make a slurry. If your dog has a favorite food, you can often add water or put it in the blender and make a slurry. Canned food has more moisture than kibble, so try feeding some canned food for extra hydration.

How Much Water Should a Dog Drink?

Most internal medicine specialists generally agree that normal water consumption for healthy adult dogs, resting in a temperature-controlled environment, is 50 to 80 milliliters of water per kilogram of the dog’s body weight per day (mls/kg/day). To convert this to ordinary household measures, there are 30 mls in an ounce, 8 ounces in a cup, and .45 kg in a pound of body weight. What this works out to is rather simple: Normal water consumption is about an ounce of water per pound of the dog’s weight per day.

While this guide gets you in the ballpark of normal water consumption for an average dog, there are individual factors to consider:

  • Active dogs (and yes, some dogs will chase a ball even when ill), need extra fluid.
  • Dogs who are panting, whether due to hot weather or activity, need extra water. Dogs lose fluids via panting
  • Brachycephalic dogs (think short muzzles and faces, like Pugs), pant routinely and need extra water.
  • Sick dogs, especially with a fever, need extra water to stay properly hydrated.
  • Dogs battling liver or kidneys problems require plenty of fluid.
  • Any dog who has a gastrointestinal illness and is vomiting or has diarrhea or both is losing fluids and needs extra fluid intake to stay hydrated.

Warning Signs of a Dehydrated Dog

There may be times when you can’t stay ahead of your dog’s hydration needs despite your best efforts and he becomes dehydrated. His gums may be tacky to the touch and his mouth looks dry. If you tent his skin over his withers (highest point of his shoulders), it stays up (means he is really dehydrated) or returns to place slowly (somewhat dehydrated). Dehydration with no willingness to drink indicates a trip to the veterinarian for the possible administration of fluids (usually administered subcutaneous, or under the skin).

In many cases, your veterinary clinic staff can teach you how to administer subcutaneous fluids, so you can bring some home with you. Be sure to follow the protocol carefully to keep everything clean. These fluids will be absorbed over a couple of hours and can supplement anything you give orally. For severe cases, your dog may need to stay in the hospital and receive IV (intravenous) fluids.

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A Thing for Gear

Nancy Kerns 4
It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.
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