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Safe Choices for Chewing in a Crate

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Kong toys of an appropriate size, filled with canned food, and then frozen, is our favorite thing to serve to dogs in a crate. If you dog has ever chewed up a Kong toy, however, it should be eliminated from the list of things you can leave him with, unsupervised, in a crate.

Dog owners tend to think of crates as safe havens for their dogs or puppies – a place where they can stash a puppy for a short time to keep him from chewing household items or chasing the kids. Even owners of adult dogs sometimes use crates to protect their dogs, preventing them from escaping the house or from getting into a fight with another dog in the house, as just a couple examples. The overall idea is that the crate is a place where the dog or pup will be safe while we need to take our attention elsewhere and are unable to supervise him for a short amount of time. 

However, owners are often advised to give their puppies or dogs a toy, bone, or chewie to make being in the crate more enjoyable and to help pass the time. And if the item that is given to the dog or puppy is dangerous to his health, then that unsupervised time in the crate is absolutely not safe. It may, in fact, present a bigger danger to him than being loose in the house without the item.

If you will be walking away from your crated dog or pup, even just to take a shower or a Zoom meeting, your choices for a crate-safe chewie or food-dispensing toy are somewhat limited.

GO BIG!

If the item you give your dog is meant to be chewed, it should be far too large for the dog to swallow, even after a good long session of chewing. Don’t give any dog something that can be completely chewed up to a swallowable size in less than an hour. 

The problem, however, is finding items that are large enough. I have been dismayed, again and again, to see chew items designated for “large” dogs that are smaller than anything I would give to a five-pound Chihuahua. 

Many of the chewie products on the market can be chewed up and swallowed by an aggressive chewer in 10 minutes or less. If your dog can chew the item to a swallowable size in less than an hour of dedicated chewing, it’s not safe to give to him unsupervised. 

Lots of people buy dried beef “pizzles” for their dogs, and they are often sold in 12-inch lengths. But have you noticed that most dogs can chew these down to three or four inches within 15 minutes or so? At that point, these (and similar chew items) are in danger of being swallowed and causing the dog to choke! While a few dogs will keep chewing until the item is small enough to be safely swallowed, others will gulp it down when it’s definitely still long enough to pose a choking hazard if swallowed. For this reason, we wouldn’t recommend an item like this be used in a crate! 

There is a single rawhide product on the market that I occasionally buy for my strong-chewing large dogs (about 70 pounds each) and for any puppies or adolescent dogs I happen to be fostering: Wholesome Hide’s 10-inch Retriever Roll. These chews are made in Illinois of a single sheet of very thick rawhide. It takes a lot of work to chew off small pieces of the rawhide to consume, which is good, because we don’t want any dog to consume very much rawhide in any one sitting. If Wholesome Hide made even larger rolls, I would buy those, instead, even for small dogs.  If it takes days of on-and-off-again chewing for my large dogs to reduce the product to the size at which I throw it away, it will take a small dog more than a week to do so – and that’s great! Providing something that is ridiculously large will slow the dog’s rawhide consumption and prevent choking. 

BONES

This bone is too small; the dog can get it between his moles, risking a slab fracture. It’s also small enough that he might try to swallow it – and large enough to choke him if he tries.

We don’t approve of giving dogs dried bones – neither the sterilized, bleached white ones that are devoid of tissues or marrow, nor the decidedly not sterile, dried bones that have tissue still attached to them and marrow present inside them. The former bones are too hard; dogs invariably try to crack them open and are at a high risk of cracking their molars on them. While the latter bones are softer, they contain enough moisture to host pathogenic bacteria such as  Salmonella. 

If you are going to give your dog a bone to keep him happy, it should be fresh (or fresh-frozen). Ideally, these still have tissue still attached to them; the act of chewing, licking, and tearing at these tissues is incredibly helpful for scraping plaque from a dog’s teeth. 

Unfortunately, it’s difficult to find bones that have tissue still attached to them, unless you are lucky enough to have access to an old-fashioned butcher who still cuts up carcasses.  Industrial “big meat” practices utilize most bones for other purposes, and the few that do make it into supermarkets (and even commercial suppliers of raw diets who sell raw bones) usually lack these tissues. 

Also, bones should be given only to dogs who have proven, thorough many supervised trials, that they can chew bones safely – not super aggressively, and not intent on quickly swallowing as much bone as they can. Even then, we’d give a large, fresh, meaty bone to an experienced bone-eating dog in a crate only if the crating period was not going to be more than an hour or so; bone-chewing should be supervised.

MISCELLANEOUS CHEWS

If you give your dog rawhide, it should be gigantic, thick, and not filled with small pieces. He should have to work hard for long periods to chew any tissue off the roll.

What about dried pigs’ ears and snouts, beef hooves, tendons, and all the other miscellaneous dried animal parts found in the pet store aisles? Nope. We wouldn’t give a dog any of these items in a crate when we are not close by and actively supervising. Too many of these items can be chewed to sizes that can be choked on in a short time. 

FOOD-DISPENSING TOYS

Stuffing food into a toy such as the original Kong is the safest option for most dogs who benefit from having something in their crate to keep them occupied and happy. 

By filling your dogs’ Kongs with canned food or a raw diet and then freezing the toy, it takes longer for the food to melt and for the dog to completely empty the toy. Or you can use kibble mixed with peanut butter, cream cheese, or yogurt – anything healthy and sticky enough to make the dog have to work at licking and manipulating the toy to try to reach and eat all the food. 

However, you still have to make sure that the toy is of an appropriate size (too big to be swallowed) and toughness (chew-resistant), and that your dog will empty the food from the toy in a safe manner, not progressing to chewing the toy after the food is gone. Run a number of trials while supervising him to determine what type of food keeps your dog working at the task the longest.

There are many types of “food puzzles” (which require the dog to manipulate sliding covers or remove pegs to reach food treats) and balls or cubes that will dispense kibble when knocked around by the dog. These are not generally safe for most dogs to use without supervision, and certainly not appropriate for use in the close confines of a crate. 

AGGRESSIVE CHEWER?

Nothing is 100% safe. We’ve heard of dogs who are able to chew up even the toughest Kongs – the black ones, intended for the strongest chewers. If you have one of these dogs, crating him with a scattered handful of kibble might be the only safe solution. It won’t last as long as some of these other options, but it will be the safest choice for him. 

Crate Expectations: What You Need to Know About Your Dog’s Crate

You're not seeing double! These two young German Shepherds like to play rough - and sometimes one or the other loses his temper and the play escalates into aggression. When their owner can't actively supervise their interactions, one (or Both!) can cool their hells in a crate for a bit. As long as these active dogs get enough exercise and time out of their crates, they are content to spend quiet time in them.

first learned about crate-training for dogs in the early 1980s and have been a big fan ever since. There are many advantages to having a dog who is comfortable in her crate, not the least of which is puppy housetraining and management. Imagine my surprise then, when I recently discovered an increasingly loud, visible and growing opposition to crating. Granted, there’s an unfortunate amount of abusive crating out there, and that’s certainly not acceptable, but the vehement anti-craters are essentially opposed to any crating, ever. Seriously? Never?

CRATING BENEFITS

There are so many benefits to appropriate crating that I can’t list them all, but here are some of the most useful:

* Puppy housetraining and management. As mentioned above, housetraining for puppies (and even adult dogs) is greatly facilitated by the proper use of a crate. Since dogs have natural inhibitions against soiling their own dens, crating your pup for periods of time when she cannot be directly supervised, then taking her out to eliminate in her designated bathroom spot, can help her become reliably housetrained more quickly, with far fewer accidents. Crating also minimizes puppy chewing/destructive behaviors when direct supervision isn’t possible. Properly trained, most puppies and dogs can learn to see their crates as a very positive place. 

Restricted activity. Most dog owners are familiar with the dreaded words from their veterinarian following surgery or some other intensive medical treatment: “Your dog needs to be on restricted activity.” If your dog is already comfortable/happy being crated, a period of restricted activity is far less likely to be stressful to her (and to you!) and her rehabilitation is likely to be more successful. (See “Rest Easy,” WDJ August 2015.)

* Transportation. We know that there are significant risks posed by having loose dogs in a car – both from their potential to interfere with the driver and cause an accident, as well as the increased risk of injury or death to the dog if an accident occurs. 

My own brother lost his lovely Australian Shepherd in a car wreck; she survived the accident but jumped out the smashed windshield and was killed by another car on the highway. A strapped-down crate (or a harness/seat belt combination) could have prevented her death.

* Canine classes and competition venues. There are a variety of canine classes and competition venues where dogs are routinely crated when it’s not their turn to work. It is generally expected that your dog can be crated when necessary.

* Behavior management. There are many situations in which a crate can be of great benefit for behavior management. 

For example, our small mixed-breed, Sunny, constantly competes with Kai (our Kelpie) for attention, and because Kai consistently defers to Sunny, he tends to lose out in the attention game. We crate Sunny at night and Kai sleeps on the bed, so he gets an extended period of time with his humans without having to compete. 

If one of your dogs has food-guarding issues, feeding one or both dogs in their crates can eliminate this source of tension. Some adult dogs still need to be confined for management purposes when their humans aren’t home, and some find their crates comforting during stressful events such as thunderstorms, fireworks, or visitors in the home. Others see it as the perfect place to stash their toys when they aren’t using them.

* Décor. No, I’m not kidding – there are actually some very stylish dog crates available that are useful when performing a double service as end tables, sideboards, coffee tables, corner cabinets, and more – you can decorate your house while you crate your dog! 

HOW TO CRATE TRAIN

Here is a step-by-step guide for teaching your dog to love her crate. If at any time you get stuck in the process, don’t hesitate to contact a qualified force-free professional for help:

1. Start by leaving the crate in its intended long-term location with a soft blanket inside and some toys and treats on the blanket. The best introduction to the crate is when your dog can choose to explore it on her own. (Be sure to tie the door open so it won’t bang and frighten her.)

2. After she has had a chance to explore, with the crate door still tied open, toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If your dog is hesitant to go in after them, toss them close enough to the doorway that she can stand outside and just poke her nose into the crate to eat them. If you’re training with a clicker or other reward marker, use your marker each time she starts to eat the treat.

3. Gradually toss the treats farther into the crate until she will step inside to get them. Continue to mark each time she eats a treat. When she’ll enter the crate easily to get the treats, mark and offer a treat while she’s still inside. If she’s willing to stay inside, keep marking and treating. 

If she comes out, that’s okay too, just toss another treat inside and wait for her to re-enter. Don’t ever try to force her to stay in the crate. 

4. When she will enter the crate without hesitation, start using a verbal cue (such as “Go to bed!”) as she goes in, so that you will eventually be able to send her into the crate with just a verbal cue.

5. When she happily stays in the crate in anticipation of a mark and treat, gently move the door a little. Mark and treat. Gradually increase the movement until you are swinging the door all the way closed, using a mark (click or “Yes!”) and giving a treat with each swing. Don’t latch it! Mark and treat, then open the door. 

Repeat this step, gradually increasing the length of time the door stays closed before you mark. Sometimes you can mark and reward without opening the door right away.

6. When your dog stays in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Mark, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate. Gradually increase the number of times you mark and treat without opening the door, but remember that a mark always gets a treat.

NOTE: Don’t make each of your dog’s stays in the crate longer and farther away from you; intersperse longer stays with shorter ones. Some dogs will grow increasingly apprehensive if they realize that each time they are in the crate, they will be “stuck” there for a longer period each time. Randomize the duration of each stay. 

MORE TIPS

It’s a good idea to leave the crate open when you aren’t actively training. Toss treats and your dog’s favorite toys in the crate when she’s not looking, so she never knows what wonderful surprises she might find there. You can even feed her meals in the crate – with the door open – to help her realize that her crate is a truly wonderful place. With the door open, she can choose to relax in her crate whenever she wants.

There are many dogs and puppies who can do the whole crate training program in one day. Others may need practice over several days before they are completely comfortable entering and staying in the crate, and a few will take weeks or more. If your dog or puppy is one of the slower-to-love crating, you may need to use an exercise pen, instead, to contain her for management purposes. 

If at any time during the program your dog whines or fusses about being in the crate, try to wait for a few seconds of quiet, then mark and reward. (If she won’t stop fussing, she is probably stressed and you will need to let her out despite her fussing.) Then, back up a step or two in the training program; you have made it too hard for her. 

When she is doing well at that level again, increase the difficulty in smaller increments, and vary the times rather than constantly making it harder. For example, instead of going from five seconds to 10 to 15, start with five seconds, then seven, then three, then eight, then six, then four, then eight, and so on. 

If, however, you believe your dog has a separation-related behavior, stop the crate training and consult a qualified force-free professional.

Once your dog is crate-trained, you have a valuable behavior management tool for life. Respect it. If you abuse your dog by keeping her confined too much, for too long a period of time, or by using it as punishment, you can easily ruin all the good work you’ve done, and lose the use of this invaluable tool. You really don’t want to do that!

Five Common Ways That Crating Can Be Abusive

Sadly, there are far too many readily available examples of improper and even abusive use of crates:

*Over-crating. Some owners crate too much because they don’t know any better. Just because your dog can “hold it” for 10 to 12 hours in his crate while you are at work, doesn’t mean he should have to. Anyone who has to leave their must-be-crated dog home for longer than four to five hours needs to find other options for a mid-day break for the dog. (Young puppies shouldn’t be asked to hold it longer than two to three hours during the day.) Options could include a family member, neighbor, or pet walker who can come by at mid day, a crate inside an exercise pen with the dog trained to use pee pads, or a well-run doggie daycare (young puppies generally should not go to daycare). Or perhaps a responsible friend, neighbor, or family member could provide daycare for your dog.

*Punishment. A dog’s crate should never be used as punishment – as in, “Bad dog, go to your crate!” The crate should be your dog’s happy place – not a place you send her to in anger. (Of course, we don’t advocate verbal or physical punishment anyway.) It is perfectly okay to use a crate as a temporary cheerful timeout: “Oh you need a break? Go to bed for a bit!” Nor should anyone, ever, punish the dog by thumping on the top of or shaking the crate. 

*Teasing. A crate should be a safe place as well as a happy place. No teasing allowed – from thoughtless or wicked humans or from other dogs. If your dog must be crated where there is human foot traffic, set an exercise pen around her crate as a generous “air lock” so no one can get to her.

*Misguided behavior modification. A crate is the absolute wrong management or modification tool for most dogs with separation-related behaviors. (See “Amicable Separation,” June 2020.) The outdated adage to leave your anxious, stressed, screaming dog of any age alone and crated until they are quiet is hideous advice and likely to make your dog’s anxiety even worse. Dogs with moderate-to-serious separation stress are truly panicking when they are left alone, and dogs with these behaviors are notorious for not crating well. 

Your job when crate training is to make it positive enough that your dog never has to bark in protest. If that’s not possible, there is likely a stress element involved, and you need to address that before you can even begin to crate-train.

*Hoarding. Bad breeders, rescue groups, shelters, and even foster providers sometimes keep dogs in crates 24 hours a day, with occasional bathroom breaks if they are lucky. These are situations that are better referred as “hoarders.” No dog should live in his own urine and feces in a crate. No dog should live in a crate 24/7 even if he does get out often enough to avoid soiling his den. Period.

IF ALL ELSE FAILS, USE OTHER OPTIONS

So, if you crate (and I do!), do it right. Consider whether you have other options, either temporary or long term. When we first adopted our dog Sunny, he had not been crate trained and he had some (fortunately mild) separation-related behaviors that ruled out crating as an option. For the first few months, he slept in an exercise pen next to my bed, initially with my arm draped over the side to reassure him that I was close by. 

Over a period of weeks, I was gradually able to remove my arm from the pen and start moving the pen farther and farther from the side of the bed. Our bedroom is really too small to comfortably accommodate a crate, so he was eventually crate-trained and now sleeps happily in his crate. 

However, Sunny is still not 100% trustworthy loose in the house, so when I leave him alone, he is shut in my office (spacious compared to a crate!) to keep him out of trouble, usually with his brother Kai, and all is well. We’ve even been able to remove the barriers that were originally put in place to prevent him from chewing up all my books. Be a creative minimalist with your crate use! 

Proper Crating
Some dogs prefer a bare crate to one with bedding, especially in hot weather. If you can offer him two crates, each offering a different type or amount of bedding, to determine his preference.

There are a number of things you can do to make your dog’s crating experience more successful and more positive for her.

• If your dog has had past unpleasant experiences with crating, consider changes. If you were using an airline crate, try a wire crate. Try offering two or three different types of crates and see if she shows a crate-style preference. If she was crated in the living room, try the den. If she gets aroused by outside stimuli, move the crate away from the front door to an isolated, quiet location in the house.

• Make sure your dog’s crate is placed in an environmentally comfortable location. You may not realize that the sun comes through the living room window and hits the crate at 1 p.m., causing your dog to overheat, or perhaps there’s a draft from an open window that makes her uncomfortably cold. Try putting several crates in different locations and see if she shows a location preference.

• Respect your dog’s preference for bedding. She may love a cushy comforter to lie on while crated – or she may prefer the coolness of a bare crate floor. Accommodate her wishes! Try offering two crates with different types of flooring/bedding and see if she chooses one over the other.

• Consider giving your dog more spacious accommodations. When housetraining, we want the crate to be just large enough to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably, so she can’t soil one end and rest comfortably in the other. After she is housetrained, however, there is no need to keep her in a small space. If you have the room, give her luxury accommodations!

Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She and her husband live in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Miller has written many books, including How to Foster Dogs: From Homeless to Homeward Bound and Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life. See “Resources,” page 24, for information on her books, classes for dog owners, and academies for dog trainers.

Be Prepared For Any Canine Medical Emergency

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The author keeps three first-aid kits packed and ready at all times. She loads the red backpack with the supplies she anticipates needing on whatever adventure she takes with her dogs, whether it's a long road trip or a mountain hike. The large duffel bag stays home and contains extra supplies and all the things on this list. The smallest bag is for human first aid.

Tico came running in from the backyard shaking his head. I noticed something was flying off him and I calmly wondered what he was shaking off; his Velcro-like fur often collects burrs and grass and leaves. But then I suddenly realized with alarm what was being spread all over my house: blood! Tico was bleeding! 

Somehow – my best guess is a rose thorn – he received a tiny (less than 1/4 of an inch) cut on the inside of ear and it was bleeding profusely. He wasn’t too bothered, but it must have felt strange as it bled and he responded by shaking his head, decorating the walls, floors, furniture, and curtains with a red splatter pattern. 

Almost as quickly as the injury had revealed itself to me, I was able to stop the bleeding and sanitize and seal the wound. How, so fast? Because I have not one but two pet first-aid kits equipped and ready at all times. 

I corralled him in the bathroom and grabbed the kit. After flushing the wound with a saline rinse and checking for foreign objects, I used a non-stick gauze pad to press against the injury and slow the bleeding. Soon it was down to a trickle and allowed for the application of liquid bandage, sealing the wound. No panic. No running around in circles looking for the equipment I needed, wasting time while Tico painted the walls with blood!   

IN FAVOR OF BEING PREPARED

When I began assembling my pets’ first-aid kits many years ago, I started with a human outdoor wilderness kit and added to it. As my kits grew, I decided to keep the human kit stored along with my pets’ kits, as many of the items can be used for both. I keep these kits updated, packed, and ready to go, next to my even larger disaster preparedness kit. 

Why two pet first-aid kits? One is a scaled-down version that I bring with me when taking my dogs on road trips and on backwoods hikes. It’s contained in a small, red (making it easy to find) Victorinox Swiss Army backpack with lots of separate compartments and pockets that are convenient for keeping items organized. 

The other, larger kit is contained in a larger gear bag that contains everything, and in extra amounts. (The kit that contains first-aid items for humans, which I bring along on hikes and other adventures, is the smallest of the three. Ha ha!)

I keep a small amount of basic wound-care supplies in the little red backpack at all times, and add or subtract more items before leaving the house with my dogs for an outing. The items I add will depend on where I’m going and what I will be doing with the dogs. Going hiking in the mountains? Anticipating scrambling over granite escarpments? I’d likely add a splint, extra cotton padding, and a couple rolls of stretchy, self-adhesive bandage material. If I’m headed for a long stay at a distant friend’s house, I likely don’t need the emergency space blanket, water purification tablets, headlamp, and dog sunscreen.

Soft gear bags with zippers work for me. Other people may prefer storing their kits in tool boxes, tackle boxes, or watertight storage bins. Before you buy a special container for your kit or kits, it’s a good idea to assemble the contents first so that you know what size container you will need. All this stuff adds up!

FIRST AID ITEMS

Below, and on the following pages, is a list of everything I have in one or both of my two pet first-aid kits, along with a short description of each item’s use.

If the list looks ridiculously long, it is! But my dogs and I are active and we get outdoors a lot. You might have a less accident-prone dog! Also, I’m a “better to be safe than sorry” sort of dog owner; I like being prepared for anything that my crazy little dogs might throw my way. You could probably consider yourself well prepared with half of this stuff. Or, if you participate in dog sports or something like search and rescue with your dog, you might need even more in your kit. Customize your kit for your individual needs. 

It’s often suggested that people go through their first-aid kits on New Year’s Day each year, checking bottles for leakage, looking at expiration dates, and determining whether the supplies are present in adequate amounts. When doesn’t matter, but you should go through your dog’s kit at least once annually – and not just when it was needed. 

An Ambitious List of Useful First-Aid Items
✓ Activated charcoal. To absorb only ingested organic poisons, chemicals, or toxins. It is only for use in dogs that are not showing any clinical signs. Never administer to dogs who are vomiting, having tremors or seizures, unconscious or otherwise mentally altered. Always contact your veterinarian or animal poison control center before treating.

✓ Antibiotic ointment. Topical antibiotic ointments and sprays containing bacitracin, neomycin, and polymyxin, applied before bandaging, help prevent infections from developing in wounds. Avoid any product that contains a corticosteroid like hydrocortisone. Individual-use packs or sprays (which absorb faster, making it less likely for a dog to ingest) are ideal for pet first-aid kits.

✓ Antihistamines (oral and topical). The safest oral antihistamine that can be given to dogs is diphenhydramine (best known as Benadryl). It’s useful for any allergic reaction, especially the dramatic reaction to bee stings. While diphenhydramine is safe for most dogs, check with your vet for the proper dosage for your dog’s weight. Make sure the product contains only diphenhydramine as the active ingredient and does not contain xylitol (this sweetener is toxic to dogs). Note: Your dog may become sleepy after this medication has been given. The topical form of diphenhydramine product (for external use only) can also temporarily relieve pain and itching associated with bites and stings. It may be delivered as an “itch relief stick,” spray, or gel. 

✓ Artificial tear solution. To soothe irritated and inflamed eyes, supplement aqueous tear production and restore lubrication – especially after using eye wash. Individual-use packs are ideal for preventing contamination.

✓ ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center number. This is your best resource for any animal poison-related emergency, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year: (888) 426-4435. A consultation fee will apply.

✓ Bandage tape. For securing gauze wrap or bandage in place.

✓ Battery-powered trimmer. To trim fur away from wounds and to remove mats and sticky substances from fur (a safer option than using scissors). Battery-powered (because electricity may not be available) trimmers probably can’t do double-duty as grooming clippers but are ideal for limited use in a first-aid kit. Remember to keep extra batteries in your kit.

✓ Blood clotting powder. Quickly stops bleeding of wounds. One brand, Clot It, is a non-staining, non-stinging blood-clotting powder made up of natural minerals designed to rapidly and painlessly stop bleeding in minor to severe external wounds. Clot It is odorless, does not clump, and has an unlimited shelf-life. It accelerates the body’s natural coagulation processes, slows blood flow by constricting local vessels and capillaries, and rapidly absorbs plasma at the wound site.

✓ Blunt-tipped bandage scissors. Bandage scissors are angled-tip scissors with a blunt tip on the bottom blade, designed to safely lift bandages away from skin without gouging the skin. They may also be used to cut tougher material such as plaster and fabric.

✓ Calendula ointment. For external use to promote healing of cuts, scrapes, and minor burns. Formulated with the Calendula flower, commonly used for wounds, rashes, infection, inflammation, and more.

✓ Camping pack towels. These fast-drying tear-resistant towels not only pack down to a small size, they are also great for absorbing water and repelling dirt. Towels can also double as slings or stretchers to stabilize an injured animal and prevent further injury during transport.

✓ Cold packs (instant). The application of cold is an inexpensive and non-invasive method of reducing pain, swelling, and inflammation, Apply cold packs to injured area as quickly after the injury as possible (use on new injuries within 24 to 48 hours) for only 10 to 20 minutes at a time or until your dog’s skin feels cold to the touch, stopping to examine the skin every 5 to 10 minutes. Make sure to use a barrier – such as a towel – between the cold pack and the body to avoid tissue damage.

✓ Collapsible cup/disposable cup. To mix solutions or hold water for cleaning a wound.

✓ Cotton balls and cotton-tipped swabs. For gentle and delicate cleaning of wounds and sensitive areas. To avoid damaging your dog’s ears and eyes, never insert Q-tips or swabs into your dog’s ears or eyes without first without first being shown how to do it safely by your veterinarian.

✓ Cotton padding roll. Provides a layer of soft cushioning bulk between primary bandage layer and wrap. Conforms to body contours and mild stretch and cohesiveness allows padding to stay in place.

✓ Credit card-like card or piece of cardboard. To scrape away a bee stinger attached to your dog (wasps and hornets do not leave a stinger behind). Do not use tweezers, as they may squeeze more venom out of the stinger sac into the skin. Sting sites can be soothed with a thick paste of baking soda and water, an antihistamine stick (like Benadryl), or with application of a cold pack. 

✓ Digital thermometer. The ideal thermometer for checking your dog’s temperature (the most reliable way is rectally) should be easy to use; work quickly (minimizing stress on both you and your dog); have a large, easy-to-read LCD display; and is easy to clean (wash with soap and water or use rubbing alcohol). Normal body temperature for dogs is 101° to 102.5° Fahrenheit (38.3° to 39.2° Celsius), but some dogs maintain a baseline temperature a little above or below the average, so it’s a good idea to take his temperature when he’s resting at home a few times in order to learn what “normal” is for him. If your dog’s temperature rises above 104° F or falls below 99° F, this is an emergency and a visit to the veterinarian is required. We like the Vet Temp Rapid FlexibleDigital Pet Thermometer, available in stores and online.

✓ Disinfectant wipes. Soap and water may not be accessible.

✓ Emergency information about your dog, including:

• A photo of your dog.

• A copy of your dog’s medical records,
including medications and vaccination history.

• Contact information for your veterinarian.

• “In Case of Emergency” number for someone who knows
your dog in case you are incapacitated or unavailable.

✓ Emergency warming blanket. Sometimes referred to as a first-aid blanket, space blanket, Mylar, thermal, or weather blanket. Use in emergency situations to reduce heat loss in an injured or traumatized dog’s body in case of shock.

✓ Emergency whistle. Use to call for your dog or alert others to your location.

✓ Exam gloves. To prevent infection, protect wound from contamination, and to protect wearer.

✓ Extra collar and leash. Slip leads are lightweight and non-bulky and can double as a muzzle.

    Eyewash (sterile irrigating solution). To flush and clean your dog’s eye(s) to help relieve irritation, discomfort, itching, or remove loose foreign material. Can be helpful with allergies. Can also be used for cleaning wounds in the event that a clean wound flush is not available.

    First-aid manual. Provides instructions on how to handle myriad pet emergencies.

    Flashlight or headlamp. Provide a light source at night or whenever extra illumination is needed. Headlamps allow for hands-free examination. Don’t forget extra batteries.

✓ Flea comb. Great for removing tick nymphs that are not attached but crawling over fur.

✓ Gauze pads/sponges. Beneficial for wound-care applications such as controlling bleeding and general cleaning. It can also be used as a temporary absorbent dressing over wounds but be aware that these are not non-stick and could adhere to the wound and skin.

✓ Gauze roll/wrap. Can be used to wrap an injury, provide compression and pressure, as a primary dressing for wound care, or to cover and secure a primary layer. Can be used to secure limbs that require limited mobility. Can also be used to make a muzzle (dogs who are in pain may snap as their injuries are being treated).

✓ Hand sanitizer. Soap and water may not be accessible.

✓ Hydrogen peroxide (must be 3%). To induce vomiting in certain cases. Never induce vomiting without first speaking with a veterinarian or animal poison control. Hydrogen peroxide is not a good way to clean or disinfect a wound as it is detrimental to the cells responsible for healing the wound. Hydrogen peroxide is also an ingredient in the most effective deskunking formula (1 qt. 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda, 1 teaspoon liquid dish soap).

✓ Liquid bandage/tissue adhesive. For closing minor wounds, eliminating the need for bandages or in areas where bandage application is not feasible (like Tico’s ear).

✓ Lubricant. To coat the thermometer to facilitate taking your dog’s temperature rectally; water-based, individual-use packets are ideal.

✓ Magnifying glass. There are terrific little handheld, battery-operated, lighted magnifying glasses available for first-aid kits (a 30X magnification works well). Useful for close inspection of wounds and removing ticks. Remember to keep extra batteries in your kit.

✓ Muzzle. Injuries are painful and a dog in pain may try to bite, especially when you are trying to administer first aid. It’s a good idea to prevent a bite by using a muzzle. The best muzzle is one that you have already fitted and trained your dog to be comfortable with. In an emergency, a leash, soft cloth, gauze roll, and towels are options for use. Check your first-aid book on how to use a makeshift muzzle. Never muzzle a dog who is vomiting.

✓ Non-stick bandage pads. Ideal for placement as the first layer over a wound. The ventilated film allows the wound to breathe and fluid be absorbed into the pad, and the non-stick covering prevents sticking to the wound and disrupting any healing process that has begun. Available in singe-use packages and can be cut or trimmed to fit most wounds.

✓ Notebook, leakproof pen, and Sharpie kept in a sealed plastic bag. Keep notes about any treatments given your dog so that it can be relayed to your veterinarian. Sharpies are good for writing on a multitude of surfaces and are smudge-resistant.

✓ Paw balm. Used to protect paws from substances on the ground, keep them hydrated and healthy.

✓ PawFlex bandages. These bandages stretch, are disposable and reusable, and made from fabric that is water resistant, breathable, non-adhesive, and non-irritating. PawFlex has bandages currently available in six sizes to cover any wound, especially wounds around joints that can be difficult to protect. (See pawflex.com for purchasing information.)

✓ Paw socks. While a resourceful owner can modify a human hiking sock to cover an injured paw out on the trail, these commercial socks fit better and stay on without constant adjustments:  see ruffwear.com/collections/dog-boots/products/dog-socks-barkn-boot-liners. 

✓ Pest repellent. A flea/tick repellent should be applied to dogs prior to hiking or going other places that are of concern for exposure. In some backwoods locations, a topical repellent for flying insects (biting flies, gnats, and mosquitoes) is needed to prevent these insects from tormenting dogs by gathering on their faces in particular. 

✓ Plastic bags (sealable). Great for putting over a bandaged limb to keep dry (secure with self-adhesive bandage), containing ice, or for storing a tick you just removed (add a little rubbing alcohol to preserve it,  in case your veterinarian thinks it should be tested for infectious disease). Also, it can be helpful to store all liquid items in sealable plastic bags to mitigate any potential leak or spilling of contents.

✓ Rubbing alcohol. Use to wipe down thermometer, instruments, and tools before and after use. 

✓ Self-adhering bandages. These bandages stretch, are strong, conforming, and flexible, and secure wound coverings in place. When properly applied with padding or gauze, the material can be used as a pressure bandage to inhibit bleeding. Available in a variety of widths from different makers (including 3M’s Vetrap, Andover Healthcare’s CoFlex, GOGO’s Self Adhesive Bandage Wrap).

✓ Splints. To immobilize an injured limb for transport. Our favorite is the lightweight and durable SAM Splint, which is constructed of two layers of closed-cell foam with an aluminum interior. The material can be cut with ordinary scissors to adapt to any size and can be bent into any of three simple curves, becoming extremely strong and supportive for any fractured or injured limb. Waterproof, reusable, and latex-free, it requires only a wrap or tape to secure an injured bone or stabilize a joint. 

✓ Sunscreen/sun protection. Dogs with white or light fur, thin coats, or exposed skin (such as pink or lightly-pigmented noses and ears) are prone to sunburn and to other complications and diseases associated with sun exposure. Use protection when outdoors for long periods. Choose an appropriate sunscreen that does not contain zinc oxide or para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), as these ingredients are toxic to dogs if ingested. There are also sun-protective clothing options available for dogs.

✓ Syringes, 10 milliliters (ml). For administering liquids orally to your dog and to clean and flush wounds. 

✓ Tape (duct and masking tape). Innumerable MacGyver-like uses, including securing a temporary bandage or splint in the absence of stretchy self-adhesive or bandage tape. Be careful not to use directly on your dog’s fur or skin as removal can be painful and cause more damage. You don’t need 25 yards’ worth; if you use these products around the house, save the last few feet on the roll for your first-aid kit.

✓ Tick remover tool. Once you have used a tool made expressly for tick removal, you’ll never use tweezers for this purpose again.  Place the removed tick in a sealable plastic bag with a little alcohol. Follow up by contacting your veterinarian to see whether she advises having the tick tested for its potential to have transmitted a disease to your dog (anaplasmosis, babesiosis, bartonellosis, ehrlichiosis, hepatozoonosis, Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever).

✓ Waterproof storage bag or container. For storing supplies such as bandages and gauze that can be damaged by moisture.

✓ Water purification tablets. Water purification tablets can ensure safer drinking water without having to rely on a heat source to boil water. They can provide protection against microbial regrowth and can keep water safe to drink for 24 hours without additional treatment. Products vary in regard to efficacy against pathogens, shelf life, and wait time.

✓ Wound disinfectant/antiseptic. To kill the types of bacteria and yeast that commonly lead to infections in dog wounds. Safe disinfectants include chlorhexidine diacetate solution (not scrub) and povidine iodine solution. But the pre-diluted strengths that are ready to ise! If not pre-diluted (check the label!), the disinfectant will need to be diluted to the strength indicated on the label for safe use. Chlorhexidine diacetate should be diluted to a 0.05% solution, while the povidine iodine should be diluted to a 1% solution for safe and effective cleaning and disinfecting. If not diluted correctly, it can damage tissue.

✓ Wound flush. Used for cleaning/irrigating wounds. Premade sterile saline wound wash is available for purchase; the solution can be used to quickly, easily, and effectively clean a wound, remove debris, and dislodge bacteria from damaged tissues. Warm tap water, warm saline solution (made with one level teaspoonful of salt or Epsom salts to two cups of water), or saline eyewash can also be used. If possible, try to clip away the fur from around wounds before cleaning. Do not use hydrogen peroxide to clean wounds as it can inhibit the healing process.

What Fostering Can Do For Rescue Puppies

Captain Crunch and Cocoa Puff are enjoying the back yard with the author's daughter Grace, who was suddenly back in the nest this spring - just in time to enjoy and help socialize this litter. The more people who handle the pups, the better- a challenge with "shelter in place" policies, but easier to accomplish with each additional family member.

pandemic has upended the globe, but here’s a little bright spot: puppy fostering is experiencing a golden era. Record numbers of people are offering to host a rescue pup, and they’re better positioned than ever to do a great job. 

A shelter-like environment is always terribly risky for the youngest puppies. Enter the foster network, where volunteers provide in-home care for puppies who are not yet fully immunized. That can mean anything from enjoying one weekend with an 11-week-old pup to hosting a nursing mama and her litter for two months or more. 

In normal times, many foster providers aren’t at home enough to promise any “extras” beyond keeping a pup safe and healthy. Thanks to COVID-19, though, many families are around 24/7, and in search of a fun, interesting, rewarding activity. Making the most of the almost magical canine “socialization window” can be just the ticket. Puppies who are not yet 4 months old are so impressionable that even a few days spent in an enriching environment can pay dividends forever. How about that for a worthwhile “stay at home” project? 

BEHAVIORAL HEALTH GOALS

The best foster providers do far more than meet puppies’ physical needs; critically, foster families can also contribute to the puppies’ behavioral development. Puppies who have gained a wide variety of experiences in a safe, supportive environment will be far better prepared for the next phase of their lives – ideally, adoption into a forever family – than pups who saw the same four walls and busy kennel workers in a shelter environment. 

There are four big life lessons I aim to teach my foster pups – to date, my family has hosted 175 – and each of those educational goals is easier because of this pandemic. In terms of getting puppies off to the right start, foster providers can knock it out of the park by leaning into this stay-at-home moment.

* LESSON #1: HUMANS ARE GOOD

A pup who is friendly and confident around people has a giant head start on a happy life. Frequent, relaxed interactions with different family members work beautifully to build the puppies’ strong positive association with humans.

Let’s say a family with three kids is fostering two skittish 9-week-old pups found under an abandoned porch. Normally, progress might be slow, with the family gone all day at work and school and engaged at night with sports and activities. But wait – now the parents are working from home, the kids are doing online school, and the activities are cancelled? That’s a bonanza for these puppies, whose days can now be packed with exposure. The pups can be set up in the middle of the action, perhaps in a pen in the kitchen. They can spend all day listening to five different human voices and getting used to how five different bodies move. The family can set a treat jar on the counter, so that each person can easily toss something yummy to the pups every single time they walk by. 

Soon, instead of cowering in the back corner, those pups will be bounding over to interact. The transformation in behavior that could take weeks under normal circumstances might happen in two days. 

Foster providers typically host nursing litters for a much longer time than the pair-of-pups scenario above. That offers even more chances to cement the “humans are good” lessons through the following actions:

• In the first weeks, foster providers can gently stroke the pups while they’re nursing, linking human touch with the happy feeling of nursing from mom (assuming mom is comfortable with this, too). 

• Providers can progress to careful, strategic holding of each pup, gently touching toes and ears while pups are content and comfy near their mama. 

• As pups begin to see and hear, the potential for interaction deepens. Five different family members, each hanging out in the puppy pen a few times a day, offers ideal exposure to various voices, bodies, and scents. 

• As the pups grow, each person can feed them, introduce them to toys, cuddle them, and carry them on “field trips” to different areas of the house. The more household members are involved, the better. 

By the time they are 8 weeks old and ready for adoption, these lucky pups will be gazing at any approaching human with calm, happy expectation. 

Of course, a key part of getting pups accustomed to humans is introducing them to strangers, and that’s something that is challenging in this era of social distancing. Still, it can be done. Having dog-savvy friends drop by while you’re hanging out in the yard with pups is a good start.

* LESSON #2: NEW THINGS ARE FUN AND REWARDING

As pups approach 14 weeks old, biology tells them that anything they haven’t seen before just might be a threat. While that might help a pup survive in the wild, it is devastating to surprised owners when their previously bouncy, friendly pup becomes fearful. 

A dog-savvy cat is an incredible asset to puppy-fostering work. Ever calm, always standing his ground, Callahan’s cat, Mr. Bojangles, teaches foster pups how to be civilized around cats. “You be nice and I’ll be nice, if not, you might be sorry”

Foster providers can have a powerful impact on a puppy’s future by strongly counteracting biology’s lesson with this one: “New things are fun!” A big job for a puppy foster provider is to gently introduce as many novel sights and sounds as possible.

Pre-pandemic, asking volunteers to find the time for this seemed over the top. But now, with a little too many hours at home to fill, showing puppies something new sounds like a nice distraction. Here are some sample approaches, all of which should include reaction monitoring. Foster providers should pair the novel experiences with something positive: the presence of mom, littermates, or treats. Pup still worried? Back up and try again another day, because the whole point is for the pup to feel comfortable.

• Redesign the puppy area every few days by shifting the angle of the pen wall, moving the bed, using different bowls, and switching out items that hang in sight.

Here is Callahan’s den design for a litter of 5-week-old foster puppies. It features six kinds of flooring: fleece blankets, Terry towels, yoga mats, vinyl tile, newspaper and pine pellets.

• Add different toys and bedding every day, and offer a new sort of flooring every few days, such as tile, newspapers, towels, carpet, and wood. 

• Carefully use TV and radio, at a comfortable volume, to help puppies get used to all sorts of sounds: kids screeching, cars honking, etc. 

• Take pups on field trips to different spots inside and outside the house, so they get accustomed to new places.

• Introduce puppies (when safe) to any other resident pets.

• Hang outside with the pups, so that they experience different kinds of weather, bird sounds, neighbor dogs barking, lawnmowers, etc. 

• Have family members sometimes wear different hats, coats, boots, or backpacks as they interact with the pups. 

• Give each pup short sessions of being separated from her littermates. Start with just a couple or three minutes and increase as their comfort level and confidence grows.  

Foster providers can’t introduce puppies to every single thing they’ll ever encounter, of course, but the goal is to bring them around so many things that novelty actually becomes an expected part of life. 

* LESSON #3: BEHAVIOR PAYS OFF

Pups want good things, namely food and fun. Unfortunately for them, they can’t hop in the car and drive to the pet store. Instead, they need to go through us. The kindest thing a foster can do is begin to give them keys to the kingdom, by teaching them that if they perform certain types of behavior around humans, it really pays off. Here’s how:

• When you approach a pen of puppies who are jumping and scrambling to get to you, wait just out of their reach. Somebody will get tired and sit down. The moment they do, pet or pick up only that one. 

• Walk up to a lone pup with the food bowl. As he jumps to get it, hold the bowl over his head so he lands in a sit. The moment that he does, set the bowl down in front of him. 

• You’re in the puppy pile and everybody is wrestling for your attention, but one pup sits and holds your gaze. Give that one a treat and a cuddle, while you ignore the rest.

After a week of consistent moments like this – made ever so much more possible when you’re home all day – you see puppies sitting in front of you whenever they’re hoping for something. The light has gone on! Instead of jumping for that treat in your hand, they have figured out how to get you to give it to them. 

Looking to you for direction on how to get what they want is the cornerstone of beautiful canine-human communication and an absolute gift to give to a pup and her future adopter.

* LESSON #4: YOU GOT THIS!

In adult dogs, frustration and stress can lead to behavior problems, so it pays to help puppies learn to deal with those emotions. How? By giving them some practice. Fosters can have a powerful impact by allowing pups to experience small bits of stress that are quickly relieved every time: 

• Deliberately let cabinet doors slam (gently at first!), pots clang, or a book drop now and then. The idea is not to startle and scare the puppies on purpose, but to gradually acclimate them to a normal, active household.Go ahead and vacuum, but at first, just for a few minutes at a time.

• As long as there are no health concerns, don’t intervene in the scramble for the best teat on mama. That competition can help a pup learn to persevere through the next frustration.

Don’t be too quick to help foster pups navigate stairs, climb onto the sofa, or drag a heavy stuffed toy into their bed; learning to problem-solve and survive these mild frustrations is beneficial.

• Don’t rush to pick up the pup who has trouble climbing a step. Give encouragement instead. Once the pup gets over that step he’s much more likely to approach the next obstacle with calm confidence.

• Set up little blockages on the way to exciting things like food, people, or going outside. Some pups will quickly learn to find a way around that new pen or over that pile of towels, while others will sit and cry at the spot that used to be an opening. Offer support and company, but let the stymied pup solve the problem on her own.

It used to be hard for me to watch a pup feeling anxious or frustrated, so I’d jump in to fix everything. But now I sit back and think about how this tiny moment is helping to inoculate that pup against behavioral problems down the road, so I watch and smile.

GOOD FOR EVERY PUP

Of course, all puppies, not just foster puppies, will benefit from these four critical lessons. But there’s something special about teaching foster puppies. It’s a chance to do something good, for someone else. Sure, it’s “just” a puppy, but you’re helping set up a lifetime of happiness for that pup and a future owner. Right now, that feels particularly joyful. 

Kathryn Callahan’s book, 101 Rescue Puppies: One Family’s Story of Fostering Dog, Love, and Trust, published by New World Library, is set to be released in September 2020. “This engaging, photo-filled book features the wonderful stories that emerge as these foster pups, typically from underfunded rural shelters, are suddenly surrounded by a nurturing family complete with generous-spirited adult dogs and curious cats. With a gift for capturing the moment in both words and images, Callahan brings readers inside the delightful, moving, and ultimately uplifting work of fostering.” The book is available now for preorder on Amazon.com.

Download the Full July 2020 Issue PDF

  • Fostering Rescue Pups
  • Ready for Anything
  • Crate Expectations
  • Safe Choices for Chewing in a Crate
  • It’s Time to Lose Weight
  • Life Lessons Learned From Training Dogs
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Time To Lose

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One of my sisters – the one who has three little dogs – lives just a few miles away from me. Even so, we talk on the phone more than we actually see each other, especially since the shelter-in-place orders went into effect. She’s an out-of-work chef, so over the past few months, there were quite a few occasions that she made too much amazing food for herself and her husband, and she brought leftovers to my house.   

If you’re like me, you’ve gained weight during the pandemic – no going to the gym and way too much stress-eating. But am I going to turn down the amazing soups and salads and desserts that used to draw raves at the restaurants where my sister worked? I am not. 

So I feel for my sister’s little dogs. They live with this incredibly talented, big-hearted, generous chef. How are they going to keep their figures? Well, with one exception, they are not. One of the three dogs, Lucky, has never had a big appetite and has always been on the slim side. (Lucky is a former stray I picked up off a roadside about three years ago. He went unclaimed for a month at our local shelter and then repeatedly flunked the shelter’s behavior evaluations. He also bit more than one kennel worker at the shelter. My sister had fallen in love with him based on the photos I took of him when I found him and had to work hard to convince the shelter that, biter or not, she would bring him around in no time, and she did! He truly earned his name.)

I thought of Lucky when I needed a model to demonstrate how to teach a dog to go into a crate, to accompany Training Editor Pat Miller’s crate-training article (page 10). It took me over an hour and a lot of treats to tempt the soaking wet, starving, tick-covered stray to get into my car on that rainy evening three years ago, and I’m sure he hasn’t been in a crate since he left the shelter. So I called my sister and asked to borrow him for a photo shoot. The resulting pictures are on page 11; Pat’s recommended techniques really work!

I drove to my sister’s house, she opened the door, and all three little dogs poured out, barking happily . . . and I was astounded at how fat the two little females had gotten since I had last seen them. “Pam!” I exclaimed.

“I know, I know!” she countered. “When they closed the park where we usually take our walks, it really set us back!”

I know, my sister knows, and probably you know, too: To control weight gain, one has to exercise and reduce caloric intake. If you need incentive, inspiration, or instruction, you’ll find it starting on page 16. 

Happy Gotcha Day, Otto

39
Otto the day I adopted him

I adopted Otto from my local shelter on June 16, 2008. He was an estimated 7 months old when I met him. He had all his front adult teeth, but only just.

I still have a copy of his shelter “cage card” – the piece of paper that resides in a transparent plastic envelope on the front of the shelter dogs’ cages with their intake information. It shows that he was brought into the shelter on May 7, having been picked up by a county animal control officer. (Can you believe that a cutie like him was at the shelter for five weeks without getting adopted?!)

Otto’s cage card

The cage card does not show this, but his computer file at the shelter, which contains more detail, says that the country officer was dispatched due to a complaint from a person who found him in their chicken pen. He had killed the complaining party’s chickens. They had never seen him before; he was a stray. His cage card has a hand-written note regarding this incident that has always made me laugh: “Kills chicken.” (The typo makes me laugh, not the chicken-killing.)

The cage card shows that he was vaccinated with two different multiple-agent vaccines upon arrival to the shelter; that’s standard operating procedure for stray dogs with no ID and no microchip. He was identified as an “Airedale Terrier/Border Terrier” mix. Hmm.

He was given a brief health examination on May 13. His weight was recorded at 44.5 pounds. He had a normal temperature.

On May 14, he was given another vaccination and a heartworm test; it was negative. His weight was recorded again at 44.5 pounds.

While he waited for someone to adopt him, he was neutered, and vaccinated several more times – for protection from distemper, parvovirus, canine adenovirus, bordetella, and canine coronavirus. Shelters use a much more aggressive vaccination schedule than most veterinarians would recommend for an owned dog. He’s had a couple of nasal bordetella vaccinations since then, always as a requirement in order to take a class, but he’s never again been vaccinated for distemper or parvovirus. I have had his antibody titers tested for those two diseases at least a half-dozen times, and the results have always indicated that he still has ample circulating antibody levels.

He also received one rabies vaccination at the shelter. He has received a rabies vaccination at every legally mandated interval since then – until last year. He is actually overdue for a rabies vaccine, by law. But at his age, I don’t want to give him any more rabies vaccinations.

Time For a New Dog…

In 2008, I was spending every other week with my husband in Oroville, and every other week with my son, who was attending high school in the San Francisco Bay Area. (My son spent very other week with his dad.) We had cared for my father-in-law’s old Australian Shepherd, Cooper, until Cooper passed away, but I hadn’t had my own dog for a few years. Partly, because it took me a while to get over the loss of my former heart dog, a Border Collie named Rupert, at the end of 2003, and partly because the logistics of driving back and forth, and having to leave a dog behind with my husband every other week, were daunting. In the Bay Area, I was renting an apartment in a building where pets were not allowed and finding (and paying for) a pet-friendly apartment, for my every-other-week occupancy, was more of a project than I wanted to take on.

But we were having regular incursions of skunks coming into our yard at night and digging up our lawn and plants. My husband – who is not really a dog person – finally agreed that we needed a dog again, and indicated that he would be willing to care for a dog in the weeks when I was away with my son. We had that conversation on the phone on the night of June 14, 2008, at what was nearly the end of my week in the Bay Area, and I spent much of June 15 looking at every adoptable dog on the website of the shelter back up in Oroville. There were two I was considering, the “Airedale/Border Terrier” -mix and a black hound/Lab-mix.

On Monday morning, June 16, 2008, I said goodbye to my son, and drove straight to the shelter back in Oroville. I brought both of the dogs I had been considering online outside, and walked them on leash around the shelter. I had been volunteering at the shelter for some time – helping with their fundraising newsletter, and working with some of the adolescent dogs – and I asked if I could bring each dog home, to see how they would do with my cat, and to see what my husband thought. It wasn’t how things usually worked at the shelter, but they knew me and said it would be okay.

I started with the red dog. I put a collar and leash on him, and walked him toward my car. When we got close to it, he suddenly balked and braced his legs, ducking his head in that precise way that dogs who have managed to slip out of their collars on a number of occasions know how to do. I was ready for him, though, and I slacked the leash enough so that he didn’t slip the collar. He sat down, and I picked him up and put him in the back seat of the car.

When we got home, I took him out of the car and started walking him around the yard. My husband came out of the house and said, “Is that the one you picked?” I said, “Well, I thought I would bring both of the ones that I was considering home for you to meet, and to meet Shadow (our old cat).” My husband said, “I would just keep this one; he looks just right!” And so he was.

My husband is the namer in our family; he names and nicknames all of our pets. He named Otto “Otto” for two reasons: because he looks like an “Otto,” and because Otto was chief among all of the jokey, punny names that my husband always joked about naming one of his children. My husband’s last name is Maddock, see; he envisioned having kids named Otto Maddock, Dram Maddock, Proble Maddock, Charis Maddock, and so on. (It could have been worse; he could have tried to name the dog Dog Maddock!)

Life With a Night Owl

Our first year with Otto was a little bumpy. I think this was partly due to the fact that I was home only half the time; on my husband’s weeks alone with Otto, not much training went on. Otto also had quite a few distinct behavioral quirks. He was fearful of certain types of people, including kids and short people and people with dark skin. (Our next door neighbors used a gardening service and the workers were short Latino men; Otto was terrified of them!) He used to dig in any moist soil he could find – meaning, any plants and trees in the yard that we watered were at risk from his digging! (This was ultimately – mostly – solved by giving him his own sandbox, which I would wet down every morning.)

And, that first long, hot summer, Otto was an utter night owl! Oh my goodness: He slept ALL day and was highly alert and barky at night. He didn’t want to sleep in the house; he wanted to be outside. After a few sleepless nights of trying to keep him indoors, nights that I spent trying to get him to stop whining and settle down, I set up a bed on my back deck, and slept outside with him for the rest of the week! He liked having company outdoors, but he barely slept; he would jump up off of the bed and run to the front fence to bark at every feral cat that walked by the front of the house, every late-night person that walked on a sidewalk within blocks of our house, every single bang or bump in the night. I would call him back to me, give him some treats, and encourage him to lie down again. Soon, I, too, was sleeping during the day, having gotten almost no sleep at night!

When I went down to the Bay Area the next week, my husband just let Otto sleep outside, and mostly slept through whatever barking Otto did. While I was gone that week, I came up with a solution: I would let Otto spend the night outdoors, but arm him with all the toys he loved to play with, so it would be more likely that he’d have a toy in his mouth when he barked. I didn’t usually let him have stuffed toys without supervision, he was prone to tearing them up. But in order to get some sleep, I’d do anything.

The plan mostly worked. Summers are consistently hot where we live, and we slept with the windows open. So, while he still woke us with barking at least a few times in the middle of the night, at other times I’d wake and hear Otto doing laps around the house at night with a squeaky toy in his mouth:

squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak

Otto playing with one of his favorite squeaky toys, one of many

12 Years of Memories

Oh, I could go on and on. Twelve years with Otto have given me so many memories and stories. As you can see, he grew out of any possibility of being part Border Terrier; his adult weight has always been within a pound or two of 70 pounds. And he’s been absolutely the best dog: a little serious, a little silly, always game to try, always interested in playing the training game. He’s the first dog I’ve owned since I was introduced to no-punishment training, so he was the first dog I’ve raised without incorporating a choke chain and collar yanks, or the routine use of “No!” (I’ve said it before and will say it again: The difference between a dog raised without being punished for “mistakes” and one who is constantly punished is astounding. Otto isn’t afraid to try, to raise his hand, so to speak, and volunteer an answer. As superstitiously anxious as he is about certain things – floors that he thinks might be slippery, for example – he always sees me as someone who will help him; he’s not afraid to come to me ever.)

He’s also been an awesome partner in fostering goofy adolescent dogs and countless puppies, and the best “older brother” to foster-failure Woody, my 4 ½-year-old pit bull-mix. Today, Woody is bigger and stronger than Otto, but he still lowers himself and, as my son put it once, shows an almost “aggressive submission” to Otto, groveling and licking Otto’s face like a puppy licks its mama, even as Otto growls and snaps at Woody: “Get out of my face!” Otto is the boss! But he’s never left a mark on Woody or a single guest, no matter how rude or unruly.

Otto and Woody

I’ve forgotten to celebrate his adoption day several times in past years, but, dog willing, Otto will be 13 years old in November. I won’t overlook any opportunity to celebrate him any more. He has some chronic health problems that we are monitoring. Thanks to good health insurance, he has been getting an abdominal ultrasound every six months for the past few years. He has some growths on his liver that we are watching, and he’s getting slightly lumpy with lipomas. I don’t want to worry you – I’m worried about him enough for all of us! – but my point is, at this point, Every Single Day with him is a gift for me, so I thought I would share that with you. Happy adoption day, Otto Maddock. I love you so much!

Why It’s Important to Teach Your Dog to Trade

Photo: r3dsnake iStock / Getty Images Plus

We all want to keep possession of our valuable stuff. It’s why we lock our doors, and why some people keep weapons. Dogs (and other animals) are no different – many dogs are reluctant to give up a valuable object, whether it’s a favorite toy, a raw meaty bone, a tasty piece of cat poop from the garden or your bedroom slipper.

Some dogs guard their valuables fiercely enough to hurt anyone who tries to take them away. We call this “resource guarding.” It’s a natural, normal behavior. Keeping possession of valuables is an important survival skill – if you let someone take your food from you in the wild, you’re likely to die. 

Related: What Is Resource-Guarding And What Should You Do About It

Still, we sometimes need to take things away from our dogs. Cat poop is gross, and your slipper is valuable to you, so it’s nice to be able to remove those from his jaws. Even more important, if your dog has something harmful – a cooked chicken bone or a package of rat poison, you have to be able to take it away.

While some dogs allow you to forcibly remove stuff from their mouths, many will get more aggressive the more aggressively you try to take something away. As in all things canine, we are far better off convincing our dogs to be cooperative partners than trying to coerce them into doing what we want.

Learn how to teach your dog the “trade” game. Photo: TeamDAF iStock / Getty Images Plus

The Trade Game

In teaching “Trade,” you promise your dog something of value in exchange for the valuable (in his eyes) item he has in his mouth. (Cat poo may not be valuable to humans, but it is of incredibly high value to many canines!). Here’s how to teach it:

1. Say “Take it!” and give your dog a low-value object – something he’ll easily give up in exchange for a high-value treat. (You might tether him to something solid so he can’t run off with the item.)

2. Let him sniff your high-value treat, but don’t try to push it into his mouth. (Anything resembling coercion will likely increase his resistance.) Don’t use your cue yet! Have a large handful of high-value treat-bits. 

3. If he drops the item, click your clicker (or use some other marker). While he nibbles at the treats in your hand, pick up the object with your other hand and hide it behind your back. You must use two hands!!! If you let him eat the high-value treats and then race him back to the object you’re likely to lose the race and elicit resource guarding.

4. As soon as the treats are gone, bring the object out from behind your back, say “Take it!” and give it to him. This teaches him that he doesn’t always lose the object – he trades with you and gets it right back. This will make him more willing to trade with you again in the future; it’s a win/win for him!

5. If he doesn’t drop the item, make a “Hansel and Gretel” trail of treats under his nose, trailing a foot or so off to the side. Engage his mouth with the treats in your hand after he follows the trail, and pick up the item with your other hand.

6. If he still doesn’t drop the item, use a lower value item, and/or higher value trade-treats. (Meat, not dry cookies.) If he won’t show interest in the object after you’ve traded for high-value treats, use a higher value object, and/or lower value trade-treats.

7. When he’ll drop the item for your treats, say “Trade!” first, pause for a few seconds, then offer treats. Click when he drops the item, and pick up the item with your free hand while you keep him busy nibbling treats.

8. After several repetitions, sometimes pause a few seconds longer before offering treats. Your goal is to get him to drop the object when you say “Trade!” before you offer treats. When he’ll do this reliably, you have the behavior “on cue” – he drops the object because he understood the cue, not just because you stuck treats under his nose.

While ideally you’ll always have something in hand (or in pocket) to offer your dog in trade, if you train this well enough, in an emergency, even without treats to offer, your dog will still give up the poisonous mushroom in his mouth when he hears the “Trade!” cue. This works best if you remember to use your cheerful “training game” voice, not your “omigosh it’s an emergency” panic voice. Train “Trade” well… your training diligence could save your dog’s life.

Read Next: How to Prepare Your Dog for Being Left Home Alone

Volunteering with a therapy dog? Look out for fake registries.

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Let's be clear, Otto is NOT a therapy dog, but I was still offered this ID card for him.

I love the idea of therapy dogs – that is, dogs who have a special affinity for humans, who love nothing more than to offer up their bodies and eye contact and affectionate behavior for the enjoyment of humans. Therapy dogs are those who are taken by their handlers (usually their owners) to visit humans who may enjoy a visit with a friendly dog. The clients may be trauma survivors (including emergency responders who have been traumatized by their work), patients in hospitals, juveniles in detention facilities, stressed-out college students, kindergartners who are learning to read, or seniors in assisted living facilities. The therapy dog’s role may be to simply allow people to hug and pet him, to entertain with simple tricks, or to lie quietly on a patient’s bed or by their side.

People who have observed that their dogs have a special rapport with humans, and who are themselves interested in helping other humans, may decide to seek out opportunities for volunteering with their dogs in a therapeutic fashion. To do so, they generally endeavor to develop their dogs’ skills at communicating in an especially friendly fashion, and invest a lot of time in training and socializing their dogs. The owners also generally spend time desensitizing their dogs to unexpected behavior and all sorts of medical or assistive devices that recipients of therapy dog visits might employ, so the dog doesn’t become alarmed or anxious, no matter what’s happening around him.

The question always arises: How do people who have dogs who would be excellent at therapy dog work find places and people for their dogs to visit?

A great example of a therapy animal organization

Sometimes the dog’s owner is already connected to a population of people who would benefit from a therapy dog. Maybe you have a friend who works in a skilled nursing facility, or a daughter who works for the county library’s literacy program, and the management is open to the idea of therapy dog visits – great! I have a friend who is a classroom aide in a juvenile detention facility; her little dog, Samson, gets to accompany her to work and is available to the students (and staff!) for therapy. In my friend’s case, she already had access to the population she’d like to help; then she worked to get Samson ready. She took a therapy dog class with a local trainer, who guides students through basic training and desensitization. And she registered Samson and herself with a therapy animal organization and passed an in-person evaluation with an evaluator for the organization.

I should note that while Samson does therapy work at my friend’s place of work, my friend also volunteers his services elsewhere. The hours of therapy work logged by dogs who accompany their owners to their places of employment do not count toward the hours of volunteer work required by the therapy dog organization he is registered with, nor are those hours covered by the organization’s insurance for therapy dog volunteer work.

Sometimes a dog owner uses the connections of an existing therapy animal organization to find prospective clients. The group that Samson is registered through is Pet Partners, a national organization based in Bellevue, Washington. Pet Partners maintains a searchable database of registered volunteers and locations who would appreciate therapy dogs’ visits, helping those parties find each other.

Pet Partners requires that owners take several online classes, so they are informed about dog body language, recognize the signs of stress, and know how to advocate for and protect their dogs from stress or overexposure. They also learn about hygiene and infection control, in order to protect clients, themselves, and their dogs. It’s a terrific organization!

Unethical, and antithetical to volunteer work

But you need to be aware that not all organizations operating in this space are legitimate. In fact, I was prompted to write this post after seeing a Facebook post headlined, “How to Make Money With Your Therapy Dog.” WHAT?

(Hint: Volunteer work should never be undertaken for money. And helping others should be the only motivation to subject your dog to what can be draining, emotional experiences.)

This post was on the page of an organization calling itself Therapy Dogs International. (Never mind that there is already another group called Therapy Dogs International, founded in 1976.) The Facebook page for the group (called Therapy Dogs Inc, no doubt because the Therapy Dogs International name was already taken on Facebook) posted on May 31, purporting to help you make money by signing your dog up for therapy dog work (ugh!).

Disgusted, I started to research this group. Facebook offers something called “Page Transparency.” You can click on those words on any given Facebook page to see whether the owner of the page is “confirmed” (the owner of this page is not) and when the page was created. In this case, the page was created on March 10, 2020.  Yet somehow, the group has almost 15,000 followers on Facebook already. Weird.

And it only gets weirder when you click over to the group’s own website, which invites you to register your own dog for free, so you can start to sign up for some of this potentially money-earning therapy dog work.  

Well, of course I registered my dog Otto – it was free! Why not? And that’s when the first “opportunity” knocked: I could order copies of Otto’s official therapy dog registration card for just $39! And a tag for just $25! And a vest with a “Therapy Dog” patch, for just $136.95!

No, I didn’t order any of those things. But I’ll wait to see if I ever get contacted to volunteer to provide therapy dog services to anyone in my area – or simply start getting inundated with junk mail or spam emails or calls (I presume they sell their mailing lists).

The site also contains “news” stories about other “therapy dogs,” as if they were dogs who are registered with the group. If you use Google just a bit, you will quickly learn that the stories about each of the dogs featured on the site have been copied from various news sources. Well, in their defense, it doesn’t explicitly say those dogs are registered with Therapy Dogs International; one has to use one’s critical thinking and reading skills to figure that out.

Let me be clear: My dog is not a therapy dog, and I will not be pimping him out to provide this admirable and valuable service for which we are completely unqualified. I am certain that this group is trolling for more “free” dog registrations, using the concept that one could make money in the form of “donations” as bait, in order to have the opportunity to sell identification cards, dog tags, and vests for fake therapy dogs. Scratch a little deeper on the site and you find that you can also buy all those things for your fake service dog, emotional service animal, PTSD dog, medical alert dog – or you can “make your own patch!”

Folks, if you want to volunteer your dog for therapeutic visits, do your homework, take a class, look for a reputable organization to evaluate your dog and register with an organization that will appreciate what you and your dog have to offer with no compensation whatsoever, and never identify your dog as something he’s not.

What’s your charitable dog cause?

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Not quite all of the 10? 11? I can't quite remember! Great Dane puppies I fostered, along with their mama, for my local shelter a few years ago. Fostering the large litters is something I particularly enjoy, especially because I know that in a shelter pen, the pups in a large litter don't get any individual attention.

When it comes to our spare time, we all find different things to become involved with – different causes grab us for different reasons. Some people get into local, state, or national politics. Some people volunteer with charitable groups after being affected by cancer, heart disease, diabetes, drug addiction.  

Dog people, too, find widely disparate causes to occupy our spare time and dollars. I have one good friend who volunteers for animal rescue organizations in Asia; several who have devoted years to rescuing dogs of a certain breed; and still another whose mission in life is to shut down puppy mills.

I’ve found myself being strongly affected by the plight of unwanted animals in my community. I volunteer at my local municipal shelter, take on unruly adolescents and large litters of puppies to foster, and wrack my brain to find ways to improve the dog adoption rate; that’s my cause. Of course, there are also plenty of “cat people” volunteering at the shelter.

But even among the people who volunteer at my shelter and who share an interest in dogs in particular — we all get “grabbed” by different individual animals and their stories. One person is trying to improve the reputation of pit bulls in society and concentrates on training the pits and pit-mixes. Another person is drawn to the many Chihuahuas and Chihuahua-mixes, and has a knack for finding the unique traits that distinguish one tiny dog from the next. Another pulls as many retriever-type dogs as she can for a breed rescue. It’s just interesting to me, to try to figure out how we all get called to do the volunteer work that we do.

What’s your canine cause? How do you explain it?

Which Type of Dog Food is Best?

Puppy eating from food bowl.

What is the best kind of dog food? Is canned food healthier than kibble? Does a homemade dog food diet require as much work as it appears to? Whole Dog Journal developed a comprehensive pros and cons chart for various dog food options you may be considering. Remember: no one dog food is best for all dogs! Consider your dog’s lifestyle and needs and use this chart to help you decide what kind of food your dog should eat regularly. You might also consider feeding your dog a mix of different food types for greater variety in the diet.

Beneath each table you will find a corresponding Whole Dog Journal article that goes into depth about the kinds of dog foods included here. If you’re looking for a quick breakdown of a dog’s nutritional requirements, check out this Dogster page.

1. Homemade

Creating a homemade diet for your dog, whether cooked or raw, requires detailed planning and dedication.

Related: What Vegetables Can Dogs Eat?

If you are new to the homemade dog food lifestyle, it is important to familiarize yourself with canine nutrition, and your dog’s individual dietary needs. Mary Straus offers an excellent start in “How to Make Your Own Dog Food“.

HOMEMADE DOG FOOD
Homemade Pros Homemade Cons
Homemade dog food diets provide a wider variety of healthful foods and nutrients It can be easy to neglect certain necessary ingredients to your dog’s health when making his food at home – putting him at risk of nutritional deficiency if you’re not vigilant
Homemade dog food puts you in control – you know exactly what your dog is eating Home-prepared dog diets require special attention to meeting the “complete and balanced” recommendations regularly; you will need to use supplements
Dogs often prefer the taste of homemade meals to commercial dog food Cooking for your dogs is a definite time investment for you
When you make your dog’s food from scratch, ingredients are minimally processed and fresh Feeding homemade dog food is potentially more costly than buying commercial food
Homecooked meals result in marked health improvements for many dogs

2. Dry Dog Food (Kibble)

The benefits of feeding your dog dry food are many, which explains why so many people buy kibble – and only kibble – for their dogs. Whole Dog Journal has a yearly tradition of taking hard looks at the virtually endless variety of dog foods on the market, breaking down why certain foods are good choices, and why you want to avoid others. Find those reviews here.

DRY DOG FOOD
Kibble Pros Kibble Cons
Dry dog food is generally the most cost effective diet you can give your dog When feeding dry dog food, you must trust the company and manufacturer (if different) as to ingredient quality and safe food manufacturing processes – your dog is at the mercy of the pet food manufacturers’ diligence
Dry dog food travels and stores well (for a specific period of time) Kibble often includes low-quality ingredients like meat by-products, sweeteners, and preservatives
Commercial kibble includes a guarantee of nutritonal completeness – you don’t need to worry about deficiencies Dry dog foods are typically carb-heavy
Dry dog food is available in a wide range of choices in flavor, sourcing and cost Dry dog food ingredient quality varies – and it’s almost impossible for consumer to differentiate
Kibble requires no preparation Dog food exiration dates matter! Dry food shouldn’t be more than half-way to the end of its “best by” date, as vitamin levels and preservation diminishes with time

3. Canned (Wet)

Next to dry dog food, canned food may be the most widely fed kind of dog food in the U.S. Dogs tend to enjoy the taste of wet food noticeably more so than kibble, and the canning process allows you to avoid preservatives and ultra-processing. Like our dry foods, we review the best-canned dog food every year.

CANNED DOG FOOD
Wet Food Pros Wet Food Cons
Canned dog food is more appetizing to dogs than dry food When feeding canned dog food, you must trust the company and manufacturer (if different) as to ingredient quality and safe food manufacturing processes – your dog is at the mercy of the pet food manufacturers’ diligence
Most canned foods use fresh or frozen meats, rather than rendered (more processed) meats It is common to see meat byproducts in lower-quality wet dog foods
There are no preservatives used in wet dog food, yet it is shelf-stable for a long time Canned dog food is generally more expensive than dry food
Wet dog food tends to be less carb-heavy than dry food BPA may be present in dog food cans – need to look at labels carefully
No preparation required with canned food Wet dog food smells bad to humans
Commercial wet dog food includes a guarantee of nutritonal completeness Wet dog food may contain too much fat for some dogs

Related: 5 Steps to Enhancing Your Dog’s Store-Bought Dog Food

4. Store-Bought Raw Dog Food

For those who want both the health benefits of raw dog food and the convenience of a packaged, nutritionally complete diet, commercial raw dog foods may be an option worth exploring. Let editor Nancy Kerns help you make a decision about feeding raw in “The Evolution of the Raw Dog Food Diet“.

COMMERCIAL RAW DOG FOOD
Raw Food Pros Raw Food Cons
Store-bought raw dog food uses fresh, unprocessed ingredients, which means maximum nutrient retention for your dog If feeding commercial raw food, consumers must still trust pet food company as to ingredient quality and safe food manufacturing processes
Dog diets that include raw meat are closest to the evolutionary, biologically appropriate diets of wild and ancestral dogs Raw diets are not good for sick or old dogs because raw meats may contain pathogens – it is a risk for immunocompromised dogs
Most commercial raw foods contain no preservatives, or artificial flavors or colors at all Raw dog food is difficult to travel with
Raw food diets show marked health improvements for many dogs Raw food must be bought frequently, or it takes up a lot of freezer space
Commercial raw food includes guarantee of nutritonal completeness Some raw dog foods contain too much fat for some dogs
Raw dog food must be maintained at safe temperature (no thawing until consumption)

5. Dehydrated Dog Food

DEHYDRATED DOG FOOD
Dehydrated Food Pros Dehydrated Food Cons
Most manufacturers of dehydrated dog food use fresh, minimally processed ingredients Like any store-bought dog food, packaged dehydrated food requires you to trust company and manufacturer (if different) as to ingredient quality and safe food manufacturing processes
Dehydrated food retains maximum nutrients after processing – only the moisture is removed Dehydrated dog food is often extremely expensive type
No preservatives are used in dehydrated dog foods, yet they are shelf-stable for a long time Dehydrated raw foods may still contain pathogens – not good for immunocompromised dogs
Commercial dehydrated dog food includes guarantee of nutritonal completeness

CLICK HERE for more information on dehydrated dog foods.

6. Freeze-Dried

FREEZE-DRIED DOG FOOD
Freeze-Dried Dog Food Pros Freeze-Dried Dog Food Cons
Freeze-dried dog food is portable, lightweight and extremely shelf stable Freeze-dried dog food is by far the most expensive kind of dog food; it is actually unaffordable to many
Freeze-dried dog food is minimally processed or raw Some freeze-dried dog food is meant for supplemental or intermittent feeding only; always check the label for “complete and balanced diet
Highest quality ingredients are the rule in freeze-dried dog food A complete and balanced freeze-dried dog food may not be available in all pet stores
Good for dogs with poor appetite; the taste of freeze-dried dog food is generally irresistible to dogs

CLICK HERE to read Whole Dog Journal‘s review of the best freeze-dried dog foods – and find out how they are different from dehydrated foods.

Lost Dogs and Questions Without Answers

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In my experience, only a small percentage of lost dogs come right up to you. This guy was running down my country road, but accepted my invitation to come inside our front gate, and readily came up for petting. He's young; he wagged and peed a little when I reached to pet him.

Why do “stray” dogs always seem to appear when you have the least amount of time to deal with them?

In your experience, what proportion of lost dogs run away from people, and what proportion will come to a stranger readily? (In my experience, the runners are about 90%, the stranger-friendly ones are less than 10%.)

Why do so many lost dogs have collars and no tags? (You can just use a Sharpie to print a phone number on a collar, people!!)

Why are so few dogs microchipped when this wonderful technology allows for happy reunions years and thousands of miles away from the original dog/owner separation?

After a nice breakfast and a long drink of water, he makes himself pretty darn comfortable in my office as I post his photo on every local “lost and found pets” page I can find on Facebook.

Why are so many stray dogs reproductively intact? (I actually know the answer to this one.)

Is it just my community, or are there really more stray pit bull-mixes than any other type of dog?

I have a friend who posits that a stray, intact pit-mix is likely to live longer wandering the streets than he will if turned into the average local shelter. This makes me incredibly sad, but I think it might be true in many communities. Is this true in your community?

If he promised not to fight your dogs or eat your chickens, would you host this sweet fellow while your post-COVID-19 local shelter was not taking in strays? (This is not rhetorical.)

Why is the dog you found never one of the lost dogs posted on the shelter bulletin board?

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It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.