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How Well Can Dogs See in the Dark?

Dogs can see well in the dark as they see better than us in low light. However, use a flashlight at night because neither humans or dogs see well in complete darkness. ©K_Thalhofer/Getty Images

Cats are notorious for being able to see at night, but what about dogs? How well can dogs see in the dark? Is their night vision better than ours? The answer is yes, dogs can see much better at night than we can for several reasons.

One is the way their eyes glow in the dark when light shines on them. That shiny surface in their eyes is known as the tapetum lucidum: the reflective tissue beneath the retina that causes glowing eyes in pictures or at night. It acts as a mirror to reflect light onto the retina, enabling dogs to see with less light.

Dog’s eyes have many of the same features as ours: a cornea, iris, pupil and lens and retina. The cornea focuses and transmits light through the pupil (controlled by the colored iris) to the lens, which focuses the image further. The image is then sent onto the retina, converted into electrical signals and sent to the brain via the optic nerve.

What helps dogs have night vision?

In addition to the tapetum lucidum, our dog’s eyes have a couple of other things we don’t that help with night vision:

  • Pupil size: Dogs have much larger pupils than humans. The dilation and constriction of the pupil controls the amount of light entering the eye. The larger the pupil, the more light can enter the eye, the greater potential for vision, especially when light is limited.
  • Rods: Most domestic mammals, including dogs, have rod-dominated retinas, meaning their eyes are geared toward seeing at night (as opposed to cones, which help with daytime vision). We humans also have more rods than cones, but we don’t have nearly as many as dogs do, hence their ability to see better at night.

Do dogs have better night vision than humans?

While dogs can’t see in pitch-black darkness, they do see lots better than we can in low light. But when it’s very dark inside your house or outside (when there is no moonlight, streetlights, or light pollution from other urban lights), your dog will be nearly as blind as you are! It’s helpful to turn on a nightlight when indoors or use a flashlight when walking outdoors when it’s pitch-back, so your canine pal can see better — and do a better job of guiding you!

How to Teach a Dog to Speak

How to teach your dog to speak is a simple matter of teaching them to associate barking with a cue.
How do you teach your dog to bark or to speak on cue? You can do it in just six easy steps by marking the bark with a treat and teaching a verbal cue or hand signal. © gmnicholas/Getty Images

Want to teach your dog to talk? Teaching a dog to “Speak” is a simple trick, especially if your dog is already vocal. It can be helpful to have a dog who will bark on cue, whether as a party trick or to discourage someone’s unwanted approach.

Here’s how to teach a dog to speak:

  1. Trigger the bark. Start with something that already prompts your dog to bark. Ring the doorbell. Ask if she wants to go outside. Jump around and get excited.
  2. Mark the bark. When she barks in response to your trigger, mark with a clicker or verbal marker (such as the word, “Yes!”) immediately after the first woof (to avoid prolonged or frenzied barking), and then feed her a delicious treat. Repeat a half-dozen times (trigger a bark, mark, and reward).
  3. Add a cue. Use a verbal “Speak” cue or hand signal (such as pointing to your mouth, making a “quacking duck” gesture with your hand, or cupping your ear). Use the cue, then trigger the bark. When your dog barks, mark and reward with a tasty treat. Repeat this sequence (cue, trigger, bark, mark, reward) at least a dozen times.
  4. Fade the trigger. When your dog responds to the bark cue followed by the trigger, increase the time between giving the cue and triggering the bark; pause for about five to eight seconds. She should begin to bark after the cue and before you add the trigger. Yay! You’ve now taught your dog how to “speak” on cue!
  5. If, ultimately, you want to teach your dog both a verbal cue and a hand signal, teach one first. After you have successfully faded the trigger, teach the second cue. Give your new cue first (i.e., hand signal) followed by the old cue (verbal). After about a half-dozen repetitions, start adding the five- to eight-second pause, to see if she makes the mental connection between the two cues and starts responding to the new cue before you can use the old one.
  6. If your dog often makes a variety of vocalizations, you can create and associate a different cue to each of her vocabulary “words” using the same process as above.

Note: Be sure to mark and reward your dog for barking only when you’ve asked her to speak, to avoid reinforcing her for demand barking.

Use “talking” buttons to teach your dog to speak and communicate like “I want a treat” or “I want to go outside.” ©Melissa L Kauffman

How to teach a dog to speak with talking buttons

Wait; you wanted your dog to speak real words? Try talking buttons! While science has not confirmed that dogs know what they’re saying when they push buttons, you can have fun with them. You can put a button by the door that says, “Outside!” Press the button before you let your dog outside, and use shaping to show her how to press it herself. Be sure to let her outside each time she presses the button, so she understands that the sound of “Outside!” means you will let her out! Similarly, you can have one near your dog’s toy box that says, “Play!” – but if your dog is particularly food-driven, we’d probably recommend skipping ones that say, “Hungry!” or “Treat!” unless your dog really needs to gain weight!

How Much Playtime Does a Puppy Need?

Puppies need playtime in order to become well socialized.
How much playtime does a puppy need to be well socialized?

In addition to planning for and providing your new pup with all the training and management she needs to learn basic good manners and how to live in your home, responsible owners also engineer and oversee their puppy’s socialization — puppy playtime — in order to help her mature into a dog who is unafraid of and friendly with other dogs. Your dog needs as much puppy playtime as it takes to get her to be unafraid and friendly with people, other dogs and places.

The good news is that most pups come with some prior play experience – they’ve had littermates to play with for the first several weeks of their lives. Your baby dog may need to learn how to play with humans, but unless she was a singleton pup (an only child), she has probably already learned some good canine play skills. (See Sidebar: Teaching Your Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play.)

Play dates are a great idea – either in a well-run puppy kindergarten class or in arranged play dates with appropriate puppy pals. Opportunities for puppy playtime with other puppies will keep your pup’s play skills well-honed, and help her develop other important social skills as she matures.

Keep in mind that even at a very young age, dogs have different play styles and personalities. A robust, energetic, assertive pup will want to play with other resilient, active pups who appreciate her active play style. Conversely, if your puppy is more laid back or shy, she’ll need to play with lower-key pups who won’t overwhelm her. Even with more active youngsters, you might have a “rough-and-tumble” pup versus a “chase-me” pup, and again, these puppies do better when matched with a similar play personality. “Chase-me” pups do not like getting tackled and rolled!

A puppy’s critical socialization period runs from 8 weeks to about 14 weeks, so you don’t want to put off this vital piece of her development during this important time. Failure to socialize her well during this period can result in significant future behavioral challenges. While your veterinarian may caution you against letting your pup interact with other dogs until she’s fully vaccinated, we can find a middle ground; you let her have puppy playtime only with other pups (or friendly, playful adult dogs) that you know are healthy and current on their vaccination schedules.

Is puppy class healthy and safe for socializing puppies?

This is where the “well-run puppy class” comes into play. A good trainer of a puppy class requires proof of current vaccinations for any puppies that come to class and will disinfect thoroughly and regularly. While veterinarians are right to be concerned about potential health risks from inappropriate contact with other dogs, they are often unaware of the risk of behavioral illnesses that can result from lack of puppy socialization – and these are sometimes deadlier than exposure to germs. The health risk from a well-run puppy class is very low. In fact, your puppy is more likely to run into nasty dog germs at many vet hospitals than at a well-run puppy class!

On the other hand, do not take your puppy to dog parks or let her socialize with random canines you meet on the street, nor should she be allowed to investigate feces left by dogs in public places. The health risks are significantly higher in these public environments, and your vet is absolutely right to warn you about these.

How to introduce your puppy to other puppies

Carefully introduce your pup to her new playmates, and only one at a time. Let the two pups approach each other without the encumbrance of leashes, and watch their body language. If either seems reluctant to approach the other, stay close and provide support and protection for the shy pup. If the more confident pup responds appropriately to other’s signals, by backing off a little and keeping things slow and calm, let them proceed. If the cautious pup retreats or looks frightened or intimidated, or if the active pup forges ahead regardless of the shy pup’s signals, intervene and stop the interaction.

If, however, both pups seem perfectly happy to engage, let them go. After a short period of mutually agreeable puppy playtime, do a consent test: Move them six feet apart and then release them. If both romp happily forward and re-engage, you’re good to go; continue to supervise and intervene if at any point either playmate looks less than happy about the interactions. If one takes the re-set as an opportunity to look for something else to do, separate the pups and give the overwhelmed puppy a break.

If you have more puppies waiting to play, introduce each of the pups in pairs, and when they’ve all met each other, gradually increase the number in the playgroup.

If you have a puppy who is a bit of a bully, and if you have an appropriate older adult to act as a nanny dog, you can pair your puppy bully with the older dog, and let the nanny reprimand the puppy and teach him how to tone down his play. Big caveat here: Your older dog must not be overly aggressive with the pup, or you’ll create more problems than you solve. The nanny dog needs to be able briefly and appropriately tell the pup to back off with a mild snarl, and then immediately invite the puppy to play. The message? “We can play – just not like that!”

When you have located appropriate playmates, conducted proper introductions and made sure all are enjoying the interactions, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the puppy playtime festivities. After all, what’s more fun than watching puppies play?

Teaching a Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play

Some unfortunate pups are “singletons” – the only pup in the litter – or were taken away from their littermates very early, perhaps for health or developmental reasons. These pups have likely never learned how to play with other baby dogs. They are likely to be mildly to extremely fearful of their potential canine playmates. This calls for special introduction procedures.

Set up an exercise pen against a wall in a large room (so he can retreat to the back of the pen and the other pup(s) can’t circle around behind him), giving the fearful pup as much distance as possible from any other pups that might approach the pen. The room should be large enough that when he does come out of the pen he has room to move around – you don’t want him to feel cornered or trapped. Put your pup in the pen (stay in the pen with him) and have someone else release one other pup near the pen – ideally a low-key, easygoing playmate.

Watch your pup to see how he reacts to the presence of the other. You are looking for his curiosity to overcome his fear. When he begins to appear curious, let him approach and interact with the puppy through the wires of the pen. (Zoos call this “protected contact.”) After some time passes (this will vary with each pup) and you can see that he’d really like to play with his new friend, have someone restrain the other pup while you open the pen and let yours out. (You don’t want the other pup to come into the pen and trap him there; the pen is his safe space.) Then release the other one and see what happens. If they play, great! If yours is afraid but the other pup responds appropriately by backing off, and your puppy seems reassured by this, let the interaction continue. If the other puppy doesn’t back off, or even if she does and yours still seems very worried, separate them for another session in the pen. (You can also put the other pup in the pen and let yours explore the room.)

Repeat this process until your puppy is clearly comfortable with his playmate and engages happily in play. When this relationship is solid, repeat the process with a different puppy. When he has several playmates he’s quite comfortable with, try larger playgroups. Remember to take it slow. Your puppy will tell you when he’s having a good time, when he’s ready for more, and when he needs to slow down or take a break. Always listen to him.

What Can I Give My Dog for Diarrhea?

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What should you feed a dog with diarrhea? First withhold food for 12 to 24 hours to let the digestive system reset and then try bland and fiber-rich foods like pureed pumpkin, white rice, boiled chicken or yogurt with probiotics. ©Melissa L Kauffman

Diarrhea may be a messy topic, but it’s an unfortunate part of life for humans and dogs alike. Thankfully there are some simple steps you can take at home to alleviate upset stomachs and get your dog’s digestive system back on track.

Common causes of canine diarrhea

Dogs develop diarrhea for any number of reasons. Often, it’s simply due to what veterinarians call “dietary indiscretion” (eating what dogs shouldn’t eat!). A change in diet can cause diarrhea and digestive issues in some dogs. Food allergies can also be a culprit.Diarrhea can also be a result of internal parasites (including worms as well as protozoal parasites such as giardia or coccidia), infection with a virus or a bacteria (such as Salmonella or Campylobacter), illness, and even poisoning. If you’ve ruled out food-related causes of your dog’s diarrhea, visit a veterinarian. A professional will be able to accurately diagnose the issue and prescribe proper treatment. (See “Dog Diarrhea Causes and Remedies“)

What to do if your dog has diarrhea

Many experts recommend witholding food from dogs who are experiencing diarrhea for 12 to 24 hours. A day-long fast often gives dogs’ digestive systems a chance to settle and reset. Fasting should only be attempted with healthy adult dogs, however, as it can be taxing on seniors, and cause low blood sugar in puppies. Small amounts of water should be given throughout the fast as diarrhea can cause dehydration.

What home remedy can I give my dog for diarrhea?

If fasting isn’t an option, there are several simple foods you can give your dog to help ease diarrhea symptoms. Bland and fiber-rich foods are especially effective at helping to ease digestive stress and firm up dogs’ stools. Some common at-home options include:

  • Pureed pumpkin or pumpkin powder
  • Plain white rice
  • Boiled chicken
  • Yogurt with probiotics
  • Potatoes, peeled, boiled, mashed, and cooled

When is dog diarrhea an emergency?

Many cases are mild and will subside with at-home treatment after a day or two. However, diarrhea can signal more serious underlying issues, and in these cases, you should visit your veterinarian as soon as possible. If your dog’s diarrhea isn’t improving with dietary changes, or if he’s showing other signs like lethargy, vomiting, fever, or weakness, and/or has no appetite, it’s likely something else is wrong. The sooner you see a vet, the likelier they’ll be to catch any potential problems which may be causing the diarrhea.

What Colors Can Dogs See?

Blues and yellows are what colors dogs see best, so use this knowledge when asking your dog to choose between objects. ©Melissa L Kauffman

A dog’s eyesight is significantly different from ours, starting with the fact that they are red-green colorblind. What colors do dogs see best? While dogs can see the colors blue and yellow very well, reds and greens fade into yellows and browns. Dogs’ view of the world lacks much of the visual richness that ours has.

Additionally, dogs’ eyesight is also fuzzier; much of the detail we humans see is lost on our canine companions. While we humans strive for 20/20 vision, a dog’s eyes are more like 20/50 vision, which means dogs need to be approximately 20 feet away from something to see it as clearly as we humans see it at a distance of 50 feet.

What does this mean for our interactions with our dogs? It could help explain why their noses are so terrific: because their eyes aren’t! This is one reason why it’s important to let your dog explore the world with her nose sometimes, rather than constantly thwarting her attempts to sniff.

It’s also important if you’re doing any kind of training with dogs that involves asking them to make choices based on color. (See: “Are Canines Cognitive?“)

If you’re teaching color discrimination, you can ask your dog to choose between a blue ball or a yellow one, but don’t expect her to be able to distinguish red or green ones. This could be especially important for service dogs, who are often asked to perform object-selection tasks.

What do dogs see?

Want to be able to see how your dog sees the world? There’s a fun app for your phone called “Dog Vision”.

After you load it you just point your phone at something and it will show you how that thing, or that scene, looks to your dog. Give it a try… it’s a real eye opener!

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass (and Should They Stop?)

It’s common for a dog to eat grass for anything from stomach upset, to liking the taste to boredom. ©Samantha French/EyeEm/Getty Images

If you’ve noticed your dog eating grass, you might be relieved to hear that this is a common dog behavior, and, contrary to conventional wisdom, it is usually not because your dog has an upset stomach.

“But she throws up after she eats grass,” you say. “Doesn’t this mean her tummy is upset?”

Actually, no. Fewer than 25% of dogs who eat grass chuck it up afterward, and only about 10% of grass-eating dogs show signs of illness prior to grazing. So, rather than eating grass because they needed to throw up, most dogs who do throw up probably do it as an incidental after-effect.

So why do dogs eat grass?

Dogs have a natural carnivorous bias, meaning their teeth, digestive systems, and preferences lean toward eating meat. As historical scavengers, though, they also eat vegetable matter. The simplest explanation for grass-eating is that some dogs just like it. It tastes good and they like the sensation of grass in their mouths.

Dogs do need roughage in their diet, and grass can be a good source of fiber. A lack of roughage can be detrimental to your dog’s ability to digest food and eliminate normally, so eating grass may actually be beneficial to the canine digestive system.

Some dogs eat grass and then vomit because of digestive distress. Take your dog to the veterinarian if the distress continues to see if your dog has a medical condition such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease or pancreatitis. ©Nancy Kerns

Reasons and solutions for grass-eating: How to stop your dog from eating grass

That said, there are some medical explanations for the grass-grazing habits of some dogs. Frequent grass-eating dogs who show indications of digestive distress may have a medical problem such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease, or pancreatitis. If your dog shows signs of stomach discomfort a prompt visit to your veterinarian is called for to rule out or treat serious medical conditions.

There are also potential behavioral reasons for this behavior. A bored dog may graze on greens for lack of anything better to do. The solution? Increase exercise and provide enrichment alternatives to reduce her desire to mow your lawn. Food-dispensing toys, scent work, “sniff walks,” canine play dates, and cognition games are excellent enrichment activities.

Stress can also lead to grass-guzzling. Chewing is a great stress reliever, and from a dog’s perspective, grass is a chewable stress object, especially absent more appropriate chew options. The solution? Explore ways to reduce her stress and be sure to provide appropriate high-value chew objects. (Sturdy toys stuffed with food and frozen top our list.)

Attention-seeking is another explanation. Your canine pal may offer behaviors to get you to engage in activities with her. If grass-eating successfully prompts you to interact with her, you are reinforcing the behavior and increasing the likelihood she’ll do it more. The solution? Ignore her when she’s munching grass and pay attention to her when she’s engaged in activities you prefer.

When should I stop my dog from eating grass?

The biggest risk to your dog from grass-eating is ingesting lawn chemicals. If you treat your yard (or walk where grass is treated) then you must prevent her from munching on the greens. You could fence off part of your yard that you pave, gravel, or don’t treat so she can have a free-play area. Otherwise, walk her where it’s safe, and/or use treats or toys (play tug!) to reinforce her for keeping her head up when walking on grass.

What should you do when you see someone mistreating their dog?

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dog being dragged by leash
Is there a correct way to approach someone who is mistreating their dog in public?

My 10-year-old grandson is visiting from Boston and we went for a bike ride today at midday, to a local park. We were riding along a path and saw a woman walking ahead of us with a puppy on a leash and a young girl, maybe three or four years old. As we got closer, I could see that the woman was wearing a hands-free leash – one of those commercial products made for people who jog with their dogs, a waist belt with the leash attached to it. And as I got closer yet, I could see that she was essentially pulling the puppy behind her. The pup was on his feet, but was obviously hot and scared and was resisting at every step.

I took my phone off its handlebar mount and took this picture from a distance. I made an assumption – that this person was not going to be interested in dog-training advice or a stranger’s opinion about practically dragging what looked to be a 4-month-old puppy in the middle of a pretty warm day. And if I saw anything worse, I was going to call my friends at the city animal control department. After I took the picture, I called out in my best cheerful voice, “Hi, coming through on bikes!”

The woman immediately stepped to the side of the path and held her hand out to the little girl (presumably her daughter). She smiled as my grandson and I rode slowly by, and I smiled back and said, “What a cute puppy! But he doesn’t look very happy…”

Her smile disappeared immediately. “He’s getting leash trained,” she said firmly. And then added, “Don’t worry, I know what I’m doing.”

Ah, the dilemma of what to do about what we consider to be training that is, at a very minimum, certain to be ineffective and counterproductive – when we see it in public.

In this case, I didn’t stay to talk to the woman. Her response and demeanor were so determined – so not open to further discussion – that I kept pedaling slowly, before stopping 100 yards or so away to see what the woman did next. Just a minute later, she put the pup and little girl into a car and drove out of the park.

My grandson and I biked to a spot nearby, where we put the bikes down and took a quick dip in the river. As we biked home, we talked about the woman and her pup a bit more. I told my grandson, “It’s like seeing some parent do something pretty mean to their kid. You don’t want to say nothing, but you don’t want to make them even madder.”

I also assured him that if the puppy had actually been getting pulled off his feet, or if she had yanked on the leash or hit him, I would have taken some video and called animal control. “Some people just suck,” said my grandson and I agree! How could she not see that dragging the puppy along by force was not going to result in a dog who trusts or even wants to be with her and her daughter. How could that treatment possibly result in a dog who has good feelings about going on a walk with them?

Does anyone have the perfect thing to say to someone in this situation? Does anyone know a course of action that wouldn’t just make matters worse?

The Worst Sound a Dog Owner Can Hear

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close up of foxtails
In the spring, foxtails are soft and bushy. In the summer, they dry out and become sharp and dangerous to our dogs. ©Whole Dog Journal

This is the time of year that all dog owners who live in any of the western states, particularly in any part of California, will freeze in fear when they hear their dog sneeze. If the dog sneezes more than once in a row, they drop whatever they were doing and run to look at the dog. And if the dog sneezes violently again and again, most of us are reaching for their car keys and cell phone simultaneously, looking up the number of the emergency vet.

My California compadres know what I’m talking about: the dreaded foxtail in our dog’s nose.

Foxtail” is the common name for a few species of grass that have fox-tail-shaped reproductive structures. Hordeum murinum and Hordeum marinum (which appear across most of the western U.S.) cause the most harm to dogs (and other animals). In the spring, when grass is green in the west, the foxtail structures are soft and bushy; as spring turns to summer and the grass dries out, the foxtails also dry out and turn brown. And as summer progresses, the foxtails start to fall apart; those previously bushy structures separate into dozens of individual seeds, each topped with a hard, sharp, arrow-like tip and trailing several long, stiff awns. Each awn is covered with microscopic barbs that grow from the awn in a single direction, away from the seed tip. When these awns come into contact with anything, the barbs help propel the seed relentlessly forward.

These structures help the seeds literally bury themselves in the earth, reseeding the plants that will grow tall and grassy again the next spring. But they also bury themselves deep into any clothing, skin, or fur they come into contact with – and if you grasp one by the awn, to pull it out of your clothing, skin, or hair, the awns tend to break off. Even a tiny portion of an awn that’s connected to the seed tip will keep propelling the seed forward

If a dog, walking through the grass, gets one lodged between his toes, the seed will penetrate the skin and start to travel into the dog’s foot and even up into the leg. The discomfort makes most dogs start to lick the place where the seed broke the skin – which pushes the seed further and further into the dog’s flesh.

removing foxtail from dog ear
Veterinarian team removing foxtail from dog’s ear. ©Whole Dog Journal

Dogs also get foxtails in their eyes, where the seeds can burrow back into the eye socket; ears, where the seeds can penetrate the ear drum and even enter the brain; in their genitalia, where the seeds can cause excruciating pain. But most commonly of all, dogs can accidentally sniff foxtail seeds into their noses as they are smelling the ground. And the moment a light-weight, stiff, bristly, awn enters the dog’s nose, you know it, because almost every dog will immediately and violently SNEEZE, again and again. I just read a Facebook post of one of my dog-owning friends, whose dog sneezed so explosively, trying to dislodge a foxtail in her nose, that she broke one of her canine teeth on the floor, and had to be rushed to the vet for not only for removal of the foxtail in her nose, but also, surgical removal of the painfully broken tooth. 

So imagine my horror when, on deadline, sleep-deprived, and working around the clock, I heard my 6-month-old puppy Boone walk into the kitchen this morning, and SNEEZE, SNEEZE, SNEEZE! “Boone, noooooo!” I cried, as I immediately envisioned spending the next 10 hours at an emergency vet’s office (they are all seriously overburdened with patients and understaffed at the moment).

But the gods took pity on me and the best sort of foxtail miracle seemed to occur: It seems that the awn whisked right through Boone’s nose, into his throat, and down his esophagus – the best case scenario. After another minute or two of sneezing and rubbing his nose with his paws, Boone gagged, coughed, and swallowed, and that was that –no more sneezing or rubbing his nose (dogs seem to be able to digest any swallowed awns, thank goodness). Most of the time, foxtail awns that enter the nose end up lodging deep in the folding nasal passages, or stuck in some crevice in the back of the throat, where they can dig into the tissues and travel into the sinuses, the back of the eye, or even the brain. Ack!

Any dog can accidentally sniff a foxtail into his nose during any casual smelling of a field or weeds on the edge of a sidewalk; my son’s dog, a hound-mix named Cole, once inhaled a foxtail within a minute of arriving at my house after a three-hour drive; he started sneezing when I was still hugging my son “Hello”! My son had to put Cole back into his car immediately and head to a vet. An hour and $200 later, they were back, only a little worse for wear, with Cole needing a quiet room to sleep off the sedative he was given for the foxtail removal.

outfox field guard on dog
© Whole Dog Journal

But my point is, while any dog can sniff up a foxtail, some dogs seem more prone to it. Hounds, hunting dogs, and others who use their noses more than the average dog are most at risk, as are (it seems) young dogs, who are still in the habit of enthusiastically and excitedly investigating everything in their world by smelling. Which will explain why, if you happen to drop by my house this summer, you might see a young dog with a mesh bag over his head. No, Boone isn’t being punished, but I’m ordering an Outfox Field Guard for him today. It’s the only tool I am aware of that can keep a sniffy dog safe during foxtail “season.” My nerves just can’t take any more sneezing fits!

When do dogs stop growing?

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puppy with larger dog when do dogs stop growing
Most dogs stop growing between six and 18 months with small dogs finishing faster than large dogs. © Anita Kot/Getty Images

Most dogs stop growing between the ages of six and 18 months. Dog owners can use a puppy-weight calculator to predict a dog’s adult weight based on size and breed.

Two common concerns among new dog owners are how long puppies spend growing and how big they’ll end up. The simple answer is that puppy growth rate depends on dog breed and size. In general, most dogs stop growing between the ages of six and 18 months. Some extra large breeds, though, can continue to grow up to 24 months. Small dogs finish their growth periods earlier than larger dogs, though this largely depends on the breed. Gender matters, too, as male dogs usually outweigh females across all breeds.

Purebred dog breed owners can use a puppy-weight calculator based on breed standards to help predict progress. And nowadays, you can even find a mixed breed puppy weight calculator to provide the best guess based on your pet’s breed mixes, age, and current weight.

How big will my puppy get?

Dog breed standards help tell us how big purebred puppies will get. Sizes of dogs range widely from tiny Chihuahuas, averaging around 4 pounds, to 200-plus-pound Mastiffs. Naturally, pedigree plays a role as well, as many lines and litters of dogs are bred with size in mind. However, purebred dogs should still have a reasonable expectation to wind up within a certain weight window by adulthood.

When it comes to mixed breeds, things get more complicated. It helps to know the dog breeds and sizes of the dog’s parents, but this isn’t always possible. In these cases, best guesses are made based on calculations like size and suspected dog breed.

Are puppy weight calculators accurate?

There are several puppy weight calculators available online, but their accuracy is a subject of debate. Simply put, these tools, especially mixed breed puppy-weight calculators, use formulas based on inexact science. For instance, one formula recommends multiplying a puppy’s weight at 4 months old by two to estimate the predicted adult weight. The idea here is that dogs stop growing at an average of 8 months old. However, other factors also come into play, including gender and whether or not your dog has been spayed or neutered.

Most puppy-weight calculators are based on established studies and dog breed standards, so you can expect some measure of accuracy. However, don’t fret if the estimates end up off by a bit. Your pup may wind up larger than you’d planned, but if you’ve prepared properly, size shouldn’t matter all that much. What truly matters is providing your growing puppy with the best possible life so they’ll grow into a happy and healthy adult dog.

The following puppy growth chart is from the American Kennel Club and is an approximation. There’s no guarantee of how quickly (or slowly) your dog will grow.

Puppy Growth Chart For Predicting Dog Size
Small (0-20 lbs) Medium (21-50 lbs) Large (51-100 lbs) X-Large (100+ lbs)
6 months 75% fully grown 66% 60% 50%
9 months 90% 85% 75% 65%
12 months 100% 95% 85% 80%
15 months 100% 100% 95% 90%
18 months 100% 100% 100% 100%

Concerns about Seresto Collars, Continued

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tick chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

On March 2, 2021, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012 (the product was purchased by Elanco Animal Health in 2020 and has been manufactured by Elanco since then). The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) had, at that time, received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners began flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.

On June 15, 2022, the U.S. House of Representatives Committee on Oversight and Reform, Economic and Consumer Policy Subcommittee held a hearing about Seresto collars. Following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the Subcommittee had been investigating reports of adverse effect incidents and pet deaths potentially related to the Seresto collar. Last week’s hearing, the Subcommittee described, “will examine the EPA’s failure to regulate the Seresto collar as well as Elanco’s refusal to take action to protect pets and their owners from the collar’s harm.” (A link to video of the 3 ½-hour hearing is available here.)

A number of witnesses testified in favor of demands that Elanco voluntarily recall the collar and the EPA cancel the product’s registration. These included owners of dogs who died after wearing the Seresto collar, the Environmental Health Science director of the Center for Biological Diversity (a nonprofit membership organization known for its work protecting endangered species through legal action), and a retired scientist/communications officer who previously worked for the EPA.

Defending Seresto’s efficacy and safety record to the Subcommittee was the President and CEO of Elanco. The company said the rate of complaints is a fraction of the overall sales – which have surpassed 34 million in the past decade – and that the rate has declined over the years. It also said that most incidents are classified as “minor” or “moderate” and that the pet did not suffer “any significant or permanent harm.” A link to Elanco’s complete statement is here.

No representative for the EPA appeared at the hearing, but the EPA submitted a statement (linked here), which explained that, following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the EPA asked Elanco and Bayer, as the current and former registrants of the Seresto collar, to provide EPA with additional data on reported adverse effects of the collars. This information was received in May 2021, and is being analyzed by EPA, with additional help from the Food & Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA/CVM). According to an excerpt from the EPA’s statement, “With the consultative assistance of FDA, EPA expects to finish its scientific review of incident data and other studies by fall 2022. Upon completing its analysis and assessment, EPA will determine whether these pet collar registrations can still be used safely according to the instructions on the label or if additional safety measures or cancellations are needed for these products.”

Benjamin Disraeli is often quoted, “There are three types of lies – lies, damn lies, and statistics.” Ideally, the adverse event reports for every pesticide and drug would be 100% available to the public to review. Without the ability for independent researchers to analyze these reports – as well as verify sales numbers for pesticide products – it’s hard to know how real the threat to any individual dog might be. We will be looking forward to seeing the EPA’s promised report this fall.

How to minimize your dog’s risk of adverse events

Dog owners need to be keenly aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. There are health risks associated with every single pesticide on the market. Every time you apply a topical pesticide to your dog, or have him injected with a medication or feed him a medication that will kill fleas and ticks, you take the risk that your dog will have an adverse response to that pesticide or medication. We recommend that these pesticides and medications are reserved for use only on healthy dogs when specific need for their use arises and their potential benefits outweigh their potential risks. In our opinion, these should never be used without a pressing need.

What is a pressing need? Exposure to tick-infested environments or a flea infestation that persists beyond immediate and less-harmful removal tactics (such as bathing with a regular detergent [such as Dawn dish soap] and flea-combing). If you don’t walk your dog where there are ticks, and haven’t had any issue with fleas, there is no reason to start using a Seresto collar or administer any other flea- and tick-killing treatment to your dog!

Fleas and ticks also pose real and potentially life-threatening dangers to dogs, so if one or both of these parasites are an actual danger to your dog, you will have to decide whether your dog is healthy enough to risk potential side effects of a treatment. Fortunately, there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog from pesticides and flea/tick-killing medications:

  • Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
  • If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
  • If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future.
  • Take immediate action if you notice any sign of an adverse response to any flea/tick-killing pesticide or medication. If you applied a Seresto collar, remove it and give your a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. Same goes if you applied a spot-on topical pesticide; give him a series of baths with a detergent such as Dawn dish soap.
  • If your dog has chronic health problems, such as cancer, seizures, thyroid problems, diabetes, liver or kidney disease, etc., we’d avoid using any topical or oral pesticides. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
  • If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
  • If your dog suffers any sort of health problem within a few days or weeks of administering a new pesticide or flea/tick-killing medication, REPORT IT. Use the information at this link: https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-incidents/report-pesticide-exposure-incidents-affecting-pets-or-domestic-animals

Fleas and ticks cause harm, too

It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.

tickborne disease chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

In recent years, 20,000 to 30,000 confirmed cases of Lyme disease alone (in humans) per year have been reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and that number is growing, as climate change is expanding the geographical range where ticks can survive. More than 50,000 cases of tick-borne diseases (including Lyme as well as anaplasmosis, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, spotted fever, and tularemia) are reported in humans annually – but guess what? That’s a drop in the bucket compared to the number of cases of tick-borne diseases reported in dogs each year.

According to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, the number of canine Lyme disease cases increased from 245,971 in 2015 to 336,200 in 2019. Increases in the numbers of other tick-borne diseases were also reported, including canine anaplasmosis, up from 117,203 in 2015 to 207,825 in 2019, and canine ehrlichiosis, up from 107,985 in 2015 to 186,075 in 2019.

I’m not adding those statistics in order to promote pesticides – far from it. But as your dog’s owner and protector, you have to weigh the relative risks of the pests and the pesticides, and do whatever you can to protect your dogs from both.

How to Talk to Your Dog

how to talk to your dog
If you consistently use the same verbal phrases to explain or indicate to your dog what’s happening around you, he will begin to associate the words with those experiences, enabling him to predict what’s going to happen next and how (or whether) the experience will affect him. This knowledge will help ease any anxiety he may have about things or activities in his environment. For example, “Look, a neighbor!” might be used to signal that the approaching person is a a benign stranger that you won’t be greeting.

I’ve always talked to dogs – as I’m sure you do – engaging them with the usual cues, the names of favorite things and people, and a healthy dose of general chatter. But thanks to a week-long course in canine applied ethology taught by Kim Brophey, CDBC, CPDT-KA, of The Dog Door Behavior Center in Asheville, North Carolina, I’m now making a point to verbally name things in a way that gives the dogs I’m working with a clue about what’s next. The result? A notable decrease in anxiety, skittishness, and reactivity, plus an overall smoothing of household activity.

I know it sounds too simple, but I promise it’s a game-changer: Talk more to your dog! 

THE MR. ROGERS HACK FOR TALKING TO YOUR DOG

“Dogs have the receptive language ability of a toddler.” When I heard Brophey say this in her course, and then go into the science supporting the statement, a lightbulb went on for me. I taught preschool before I pivoted to dogs, and I can tell you that, while most toddlers can’t articulate their thoughts very well, they understand an astounding percentage of what people say to them. 

Note that we make an effort to tell toddlers what’s going on around them. That helps them gain confidence as they begin to see patterns in an otherwise confusing world. Think about the “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood” show on PBS and that dear man’s predictably reassuring commentary on his actions (“I’m going to go over to the tank and feed the fish now.”).

Guess what? That purposeful narration works for dogs too, and Brophey calls it the “Mr. Rogers Hack.” She drives home the idea that so much of our human environment is utterly foreign to dogs, so they’re constantly having to work hard figuring out what the heck is going on. “Should I be worried? Should I be excited? Will I be interacting with that? Will it be loud? Can I eat it?” Cue the dog’s anxiety, skittishness, arousal, reactivity. 

We can lessen a dog’s load by explaining life as it unfolds, just as Mr. Rogers did.

HOW NARRATION WORKS

This does not mean that we should all begin prattering on to our dogs about, say, global politics. The key is that the oft-repeated words and phrases must be relevant for the dog. When focused on things the dog has feelings about – either negative or positive – the Mr. Rogers Hack gives the dog a clue about what’s coming next, helping him to prepare.

For example, the other day I was walking my three big dogs and we turned a corner to find a construction crew working on the street. There were a handful of men, wearing reflective gear and hard hats, holding big tools, next to a noisy truck. 

If I did nothing in that scenario I’d have a three-dog challenge on my hands: one barker, one slinker, and a highly suggestable 100-lb adolescent. Historically, my approach would have been to 1) switch direction or 2) use cues like “touch,” “look,” and “find it” to pull the dogs’ attention away from the crew and onto something familiar and reassuring as we pass by as quickly as we can. With three of them, though, that’s not always a graceful moment. 

So I used the Mr. Rogers Hack, as I’ve been doing for the past few months. I exclaimed in a cheery voice, “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” My dogs relaxed – no stream of cues or distraction necessary. They were able to casually watch as we loose-leashed our way past the equipment and workers. 

Why did this work? Because I have been consistently using that phrase – “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” – when there are unexpected humans working in unusual places doing strange loud things in weird clothing, and (here’s the key) none of that has affected them in any way.

“They’re fixing it!” allows my dogs’ brains to stop working so hard to figure out every single road/lawn/tree/paint/gutter/gardening/construction crew we come across. Those words help my dogs to categorize this experience because it’s part of a pattern they can recognize. They can now predict what’s next: We’ll continue our walk and that crew won’t impact us at all.

What is Applied Ethology?

Ethology  is simply the study of animal behavior; applied ethology focuses on the behavior of animals in the care of humans. Applied ethology allows a zookeeper to, say, find ways to help a captive cheetah stop pacing unhappily in his enclosure. (“What needs are unmet? How can we change the environment to fix that?”)

In her book, her courses, and her work at The Dog Door, Kim Brophey brings that applied ethology approach to our pet dogs, who are – even though we don’t like to think about it this way – in captivity. When it comes to undesired behavior – barking, digging, reactivity – dog trainers usually jump into changing that behavior. In contrast, Brophey’s model calls for slowing down that jump and instead spending time on “Why are they doing that behavior.” 

If it sounds like that would lead to frustrated dog owners waiting for a solution, think again. Brophey’s process often results in the owner gaining not only a new understanding of the dog’s behavior but also many deceptively simple “hacks” (like the Mr. Rogers one profiled here) that can have a profound impact on the dog/owner relationship. 

To learn more, check out “The Dog’s Truth,” Brophey’s engaging one-hour course on canine applied ethology; see the link on her website at familydogmediation.com.

SAMPLE VOCABULARY TO USE TO TALK TO YOUR DOG

It may be exhausting or arousing for a dog to have to evaluate every novel thing in our human environment and wonder how it might affect him. Using a word to indicate a category of things that will just pass on by is incredibly helpful, relaxing information for him. For example: 

“Plane” = Anything loud in the sky 

“Boat” = Anything floating in the water

“Bike” = A human moving fast on a bike, scooter, or skateboard

“Neighbor” = A random person we see out walking

“They’re playing” = Kids or teens racing around or being loud

“Runner” = Human moving fast on foot

“Doggy” = A dog we see but won’t greet up close

In contrast, here are words that can help a dog anticipate more interaction: 

“Buddy” = A dog we’ll get up close to, sniff, walk with, or play with

“Friend” = A human we’ll say hello to

“Guest” = People coming into the house (this will telegraph that people will come in, sit around and talk)

“Helper” = A plumber, electrician, painter, or anybody coming into the house to work (may telegraph that person will be hanging out for a while, perhaps unsupervised by family, using tools, making noise)

It can be helpful (and just plain fun) to teach your dog things that come up every day, like:

“TV time!” = Snuggle in because we’ll be here for a while

“See ya later” = Go ahead and nap because I’m leaving for a while

“I’ll be right back” = Don’t follow me upstairs because I’m coming immediately back down

“This way” = We’re going to change direction 

“First” and “Next” = For multiple-dog families training, putting harnesses on, getting in the car, being brushed, etc.

This deceptively simple shift in how we talk to our dogs is a great gift we can give them. Intentional, consistent, predictive narration creates calmer dogs – and thus, happier humans. 

Homemade Frozen Dog Treats

4
popsicles for dogs
For “pupsicles,” use an edible “stick” such as a slice of carrot. The downside of frozen treats is that they melt, and melting treats can be messy. If you’re feeding indoors, try serving frozen dog treats on a towel, mat, or other surface that protects furniture and flooring.

Our dogs are just as fond of ice cream, popsicles, and other frozen treats as we are. But frozen treats, including those sold for pets, can be high in sugar, difficult to digest, expensive, or contain artificial flavors, colors, and even potentially dangerous ingredients. 

Fortunately, it’s easy to save money, add variety, improve the nutritional content of your dog’s treats, and help your hot dog cool down as temperatures climb with these homemade frozen dog treats.

How to Make The Best Frozen Dog Treats in Town

Ingredients: Avoid ingredients that are harmful to dogs, such as the sweetener xylitol, macadamia nuts, grapes, raisins, onions, and chocolate. Prevent unwanted weight gain by limiting fruits, fruit juices, and other sources of sugar, and feed all “extra” treats in moderation. 

Many dogs are lactose-intolerant, which can make regular ice cream and frozen milk products indigestible. Substituting fermented dairy products like yogurt or kefir, or using unsweetened coconut milk, which is lactose-free, helps dogs avoid digestive problems.

Equipment: Recommended equipment includes a sharp knife and cutting board, blender or food processor, and something to hold and shape treats during freezing, such as simple ice cube trays, sturdy rubber chew toys, popsicle molds, paper cups, silicone molds, wooden strips, and edible sticks.

Storage: Once treats are frozen, place them in air-tight freezer containers or zip-lock bags for freezer storage. This prevents sublimation, during which frozen foods dehydrate, and it prevents the transmission of odors to and from other foods. 

Frozen Dog Treat Disclaimer: If your dog loves to chew ice cubes, she’s not alone – but ice cubes are potentially hazardous. According to Tennessee pet dentist Barden Greenfield, DVM, “Dogs have a tendency to chew too hard and the force of breaking ice is substantial. This leads to a slab fracture (broken tooth) of the upper 4th premolar, which many times exposes the pulp, leading to tremendous oral pain and discomfort. Treatment options are root canal therapy or surgical removal.” 

The risk of breaking a tooth increases with the size of frozen cubes, so avoid this problem by freezing small cubes, offer shaved ice instead of cubes, or add ingredients that produce softer cubes, such as those described here. Small amounts of honey, which can have health benefits for dogs, help prevent a “too hard” freeze. 

Use whatever safe ingredients you have on hand, and experiment with quantities. There is no single “right” way to make a frozen treat that your dog will relish. An easy way to predict whether your dog will enjoy a frozen treat is to offer a taste (such as a teaspoon) before freezing. If your dog loves it, perfect. If not, add a more interesting bonus ingredient.

Simple Frozen Kong Ideas for Easy Frozen Dog Treats

Nothing could be easier than filling a sturdy dishwasher-safe, nontoxic, hollow, hard rubber toy such as a Classic Kong with any of the following ingredients before leaving it in the freezer. Block any extra holes to prevent leakage, leaving one large hole open for filling. Popular dog-safe ingredient options include:

  • Mashed ripe banana
  • Pureed soft fruit or vegetables (remove seeds or pits before blending)
  • Canned dog food
  • Nut butter (look for sugar-free peanut butter or other nut butters that do not contain xylitol)
  • Diced apple
  • Chopped or shredded carrots
  • Shredded unsweetened coconut
  • Plain unsweetened yogurt or kefir
  • Dog treats

Combine your dog’s favorite ingredients and fill the hollow toy. If desired, seal the top with a layer of peanut butter, squeeze cheese, or a dog treat paste such as Kong’s Stuffin’ Paste. Store the toy so its contents remain in place while freezing. For storage, keep frozen Kongs in a sealed freezer container or zip-lock bag. 

Another simple summer treat is a few chunks of frozen dog-safe fruits or vegetables delivered by hand or in a small bowl, such as banana, apple, peach, watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, or green beans.

frozen dog treats made some ice trays and popsicles for dogs
Dogs love frozen treats. Make them more fun with fancy ice cube trays, or make nutrient-filled popsicles for dogs.

Ice Cube Treats for Dogs

Any liquid that your dog enjoys will work well as a simple frozen ice cube. Follow these instructions to make a frozen dog treat in an ice cube tray: 

  1. Choose any of your dog’s favorite dog safe ingredients like bananas, apples, watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, peaches, sugar-free (and xylitol-free) yogurt or kefir, coconut milk, cooked or baked sweet potato, cooked vegetables, peanut butter, and/or canned or cooked fish, meat, or poultry.
  2. Using a blender or food processor, combine the ingredients to create a puree, one that’s thin enough to pour.
  3. After freezing, remove the treats to zip-lock bags for freezer storage.

Adding a surprise to your frozen dog treats!

Adding a surprise in the middle turns ice into a fun game. Some of my dog’s favorite bases include:

  • Salt-free or low-salt bone broth
  • Water pureed with a small amount of cooked meat or fish
  • Broth or water mixed with unsweetened coconut milk

Fill your ice cube tray halfway and freeze. Then remove the tray from the freezer and add in the center of each cube a small treat such as:

  • Blueberries, cut strawberries, banana slices, or other cut fruit
  • A piece of cooked meat
  • A small training treat
  • A dollop of peanut butter

Fill the ice cube tray to the top with the same or a different base liquid and place it back in the freezer. After the cubes have frozen solid (usually within 4 hours), store them in zip-lock bags.

Make it fancy!

Silicone molds can turn any simple treat into something extra special. (Okay, the dogs won’t notice, but you and your human friends will be impressed!) Place your silicone molds on a cookie sheet and arrange enough freezer space to hold them flat during freezing. 

Homemade Ice Cream for Dogs

Soft Serve for Dogs

homemade ice cream for dogs ingredients
When making homemade ice cream for your dog, replace the typical dairy ingredients that make up our favorite ice creams with fermented dairy like yogurt or kefir.

Follow these instructions to create a soft, swirly frozen confection:

  1. Cut ripe fruit such as watermelon or other melon (remove seeds as you go) into chunks and freeze them for at least 4 hours.
  2. In a blender or food processor, combine 2 cups frozen fruit with 1/4 cup plain unsweetened yogurt, kefir, or coconut milk. Blend well to achieve a soft-serve consistency.
  3. Serve in an ice cream cone, paper cup, or small bowl, place some in a hollow toy, or add it on top of your dog’s dinner.

Pupsicles – Popsicles for Dogs

It’s fun to serve a frozen fruit smoothie or another frozen treat on a stick to your best friend, and there are dozens of do-it-yourself popsicle molds to choose from. Take a look online for inspiration. For convenience, paper cups work just as well. Here’s how to make popsicles for your dog: 

  1. In your blender or food processor, combine dog safe ingredients such as frozen banana pieces, unsweetened nut butter, unsweetened yogurt or kefir, bacon bits, coconut milk, and/or meat, fish, or poultry.
  2. Aim for the consistency of a thick milkshake.
  3. Fill the popsicle molds and add an edible “stick” such as a dog biscuit, green bean, slice of carrot or parsnip, bully stick, or sturdy chew toy like a nylon bone.
  4. To remove the pupsicles from their molds, leave them at room temperature for 2 to 3 minutes or run warm water over the outside of the mold. 

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