Your dog is shedding, but there are so many different types of brushes and combs, and it’s difficult to know which work best for your dog’s type of coat. Here’s how to decide which grooming tools work best for your dog’s daily or seasonal hair loss. (If your dog’s shedding seems particularly excessive, see “Why Does My Dog Shed So Much?”)

What is the best brush for shedding dogs?

That depends on your dog’s breed. Single-coated dogs like Poodles, Boxers, Dachshunds, and Greyhounds shed only a little and do well with the most gentle brushes and tools. Double-coated breeds like Retrievers and Shepherds shed noticeably all year round and lose extra hair in spring and fall. Their double-layered coats are thick and dense, requiring extra strength, depth, and performance in grooming tools.

What tools or brushes are best for my single-coated dog?

• Silicone grooming gloves have rubber tips on the palms and fingers that collect loose hair and combine grooming with petting. They help manage the hair of single-coated dogs and can polish the coats of all dogs.

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  Dual-action brushes feature stainless steel pins on one side and nylon bristles on the other. The pins, which often have safety tips, remove tangles and excess hair while the bristles redistribute natural oils that help coats shine, especially on single-coated dogs.

• Slicker brushes are densely packed with rows of angled stainless steel or plastic pins that gently detangle mats and remove dead hair from all breeds and hair lengths, both single- and double-coated.
• Bristle brushes work best for dogs with short hair because they stimulate blood flow, separate hair follicles, and remove dead hair.

What is the best de-shedding tool for my heavily shedding dog?

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  Rubber or plastic currycombs can be used wet or dry to scrub away dead skin, loose hair, and dirt without painful pulling. They also work well to massage shampoo into your dog’s coat.

• Undercoat rakes are metal brushes that reach well into the undercoat of double-coated dogs to remove dead hair. Often called de-shedding tools, their rounded metal teeth gently disassemble tangles and knots, eliminating dander and trapped dirt. They are recommended for dogs with thick, dense coats and for shaping and thinning hair to create a soft, smooth, shiny coat.

Perhaps the only undercoat rake that has brand-name recognition with pet owners is the Furminator. This tool has doesn’t have individual teeth like a comb or conventional coat rake; instead, individual “teeth” were cut into a single steel bar. The gaps between the teeth are very tight, so the dog’s loose undercoat “catches” between the teeth and is easily and productively pulled out in a volume that pleases dog owners (but not all dogs). Some dogs find the sensation of being brushed with a Furminator highly uncomfortable; others seem to like it. It helps to have the right size of Furminator’s de-shedding tool; the spaces between the teeth and the length of the teeth vary in order to best de-shed dogs with short, medium, or long coats.

Some owners and groomers intensely dislike the Furminator, claiming that the tool is abrasive and shears the dog’s coat. The company says that when the Furminator is used as directed (one to two times a week for 10 to 20 minutes total, and never on wet hair), it does not damage the coat.

Furminator foes prefer de-shedding rakes with rounded stainless steel teeth and sharp interior blades, which break up knots and tangles while being gentle on the skin, making them especially effective for long-haired breeds.

Can you wash shedding away?

Several shampoos and conditioners claim to control or reduce shedding, most of which contain herbs like aloe vera or green tea, natural oils like shea butter, nutrients like vitamins A, D, and E, and omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. Do they work? No shampoo or conditioner will prevent your dog from losing dead hair, but when combined with regular brushing with appropriate tools, shed-control grooming products can help your dog maintain a healthy coat while helping you maintain a (mostly) shed-free home.

All dogs shed, losing old hair as new hair grows in. Some dogs noticeably shed all year round, some blow their coats (heavy shedding) once or twice a year, and a few dogs shed only a little. Understanding your dog’s shedding can help you manage it.

Why do dogs shed in winter or when seasons change?

Hair growth and shedding cycles coincide with seasonal shifts, such as winter to spring. Dogs tend to shed least in summer months. Shedding increases in autumn as the incoming winter coat loosens old hair follicles. Shedding is usually moderate during the coldest months of the year but toward the end of winter, shedding increases to its maximum as spring approaches and dogs lose their winter coats. Seasonal shedding lasts two to four weeks.

Dogs who live outdoors experience more extreme seasonal shedding than indoor dogs because artificial light and controlled indoor temperatures disrupt natural cycles associated with weather and daylight changes.

Why does my dog shed so much?

The rate at which dogs shed depends on their breed. Double-coated breeds tend to shed year round because their undercoat and topcoat layers are constantly replaced. Double-coated breeds include Huskies, Retrievers, Shepherds, Sheepdogs, Beagles, and other breeds from cold climates. Their undercoats give them important insulation.

Single-coated breeds don’t have an undercoat, only a topcoat, so they shed less than double-coated breeds. Afghan Hounds, Boxers, Chihuahuas, Dachshunds, Dalmatians, Greyhounds, Poodles, Whippets, and Yorkshire Terriers are examples of single-coated breeds.

For both coat types, frequent brushing removes old, dead hair and aerates the coat by allowing air to flow through it. This helps keep the coat healthy and reduces shedding. Special grooming tools help remove old undercoats from double-coated dogs and disentangle mats and snarls.

Why is my dog shedding more than usual?

When a dog’s regular shedding pattern is disrupted by unusually heavy hair loss, look for underlying contributing causes. For example:

• Shedding can be triggered by trips to the veterinarian (especially if past visits have been unpleasant for the dog); relocations or evacuations; changes in the home environment, such as remodeling projects or long-term visitors; the loss of a human or animal companion; the addition of new family members; or unfamiliar activities, including training classes.

• Allergies. Reactions to grooming products, medications, household cleaners, the environment, or certain foods can cause allergic reactions that trigger hair loss. The allergen can be topical (applied to the skin), inhaled (pollen or other irritants), or ingredients in food, treats, or supplements.
• Skin or coat issues. Sparse hair, bald spots, or sudden hair loss can be caused by parasites like fleas, lice, or mites; fungal infections like ringworm; or underlying immune disorders or illnesses.

A good groomer can help when your dog’s shedding overwhelms you, and your veterinarian can help when underlying conditions contribute to unusually heavy shedding. However, having the right de-shedding tools can help you keep from getting buried in a hair-storm. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, see “Brushes and Tools for Shedding Dogs” for recommendations for the best de-shedding tools.

If your dog is pooping blood, he should be evaluated by a veterinarian as soon as possible, because some reasons for bloody diarrhea and vomiting are serious, such as a clotting disorder. There are also simple and straightforward causes for a dog’s stool to contain blood, even if he’s acting completely normal otherwise. After taking a history, including questions about any other symptoms the dog may be having, such as diarrhea or vomiting, and conducting a physical examination, the veterinarian will recommend a diagnostic and treatment plan.

Causes for pooping blood and diarrhea

Inflammatory colitis causes chronic diarrhea, sometimes accompanied by bloody stool. An infection or food intolerance may cause damage to the mucosa (the inner lining of the colon), resulting in the development of scar tissue and ulcers. Ulcers and scar tissue impair the colon’s ability to absorb water and increase the muscular contractions of the colon, resulting in diarrhea that is sometimes bloody with an increased urgency to defecate.

It may appear that your dog is pooping blood clots. This is likely blood mixed with thin layers of the ulcerated mucosa due to inflammation.

An infection with an intestinal parasite called whipworm can cause diarrhea that is streaked with blood and mucus. Your veterinarian may want to submit a sample of your dog’s feces to a laboratory for a fecal analysis to look for whipworm eggs. Bring a stool sample with you to your dog’s veterinary appointment, if possible. Because whipworm eggs are not shed in the feces all the time, it may take a few consecutive fecal analyses or the submission of a diarrhea panel to diagnose whipworm. If whipworm is suspected, then your dog may be prescribed a broad-spectrum dewormer, such as Drontal or Panacur. Most monthly heartworm preventatives are also effective at treating and controlling whipworm infections.

Certain bacterial and fungal infections can cause bloody diarrhea. Bacterial colitis infections with Campylobacter and Salmonella can result from consuming undercooked meat or drinking from contaminated water sources. Salmonella infections are seen more often in dogs who eat a raw food diet. A bacteria called Clostridium perfringens can produce toxins that may result in bloody diarrhea. These bacteria and the clostridium toxins can be detected on a special fecal test called a diarrhea panel. Histoplasmosis is a fungal infection that can cause bloody poop. It is caused by a fungus found in soil contaminated with bird or bat manure and is most prevalent in the Mississippi and Ohio River valleys. Histoplasma capsulatum can often be found on a sample taken from the wall of the rectum.

Blood in poop with vomiting

Parvovirus is a life-threatening viral infection that typically affects young puppies and adult dogs who have either never been vaccinated for parvovirus or have had an incomplete vaccination series. Puppies and dogs infected with parvovirus will often have bloody diarrhea, vomiting, and will be lethargic and not want to eat or drink. A rectal swab test is effective at identifying parvovirus but may be negative in the early stage of the disease. Parvo is a serious illness, so your veterinarian will likely recommend hospitalizing your pup for treatment.

Other causes of bloody poop

One of the simplest causes for this condition is an anal sac infection. Dogs have two anal sacs, located just behind their anus, which are lined with glands that produce a foul-smelling liquid. When a dog has a bowel movement, the stool applies pressure to the sacs as it passes through the rectum, pressing the liquid contents of the anal sacs onto the surface of the stool. When an anal sac becomes infected, there is increased blood flow to the area to help battle that infection. This can result in the spread of blood and pus onto the surface of the stool along with the anal sac secretions.

Your veterinarian may recommend lancing the infected anal sac to drain and flush it. Sometimes this may require giving your dog a light sedative to make him more comfortable for this procedure. An antibiotic and an analgesic (pain medication) also will likely be prescribed.

Polyps or masses in the rectum or colon can cause bloody stool. If they are located in the rectum, your veterinarian may be able to feel them on completion of a digital rectal exam. If they are located in the colon, then they may be visible on radiographs but will likely require an abdominal ultrasound or a colonoscopy to locate precisely. Biopsy samples of a colonic polyp or mass can often be obtained during a colonoscopy.

Sometimes bloody stool can be caused by eating non-food items. Foreign material, such as sticks, wood chips, bones, aluminum foil, or anything with sharp or rough edges, can cause blood in the stool. Your veterinarian will likely recommend abdominal radiographs (X-rays) to determine if any foreign material is present in your dog’s small or large intestine. Sometimes radiographs are not conclusive for identifying foreign material or a gastrointestinal obstruction and an abdominal ultrasound may be recommended.

Dogs with a dietary intolerance or a sudden change in their diet may develop blood in their stool. The food we eat does not always sit well with our dogs, especially foods that are high in fat or grease, so sharing portions of our meals can cause diarrhea or bloody stool. Blood in the stool can also be caused by suddenly changing your dog’s diet. If you need to change your dog’s diet, transitioning from the old diet to the new diet over a period of five to seven days will help minimize the risk of developing diarrhea.

Coagulation disorders that interfere with a dog’s ability to clot can cause blood in the stool. Ingestion of an anti-coagulant rodenticide (rat poison), liver disease, medications that interfere with platelet function, and immune-mediated thrombocytopenia can affect any dog. The liver is the primary organ for producing clotting factors, so any acute or chronic liver disease can result in bleeding. Medications such as aspirin can interfere with platelet function. Immune-mediated thrombocytopenia is a condition in which the dog’s immune system erroneously attacks and destroys his platelets.

Rare hereditary disorders can interfere with a dog’s ability to clot as well. Hereditary disorders include forms of hemophilia and a condition called von Willebrand disease. It is important to note that coagulation disorders frequently cause other signs in addition to bloody stool, including blood in the urine and unexplained bruising of the skin. Your veterinarian may recommend bloodwork, including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, and a coagulation panel to determine the underlying cause of your dog’s bloody stool.

Diagnosing the cause of blood in the stool

A diagnosis of inflammatory colitis is made by first ruling out other more common causes of bloody stool, such as bacterial, viral, and parasitic infections. A dietary food trial with a prescription diet, such as a gastrointestinal or novel protein food, may be tried. Abdominal ultrasound will allow your veterinarian to see if there any lesions or masses in the colon or if there are enlarged regional lymph nodes. A colonoscopy to visualize the mucosa of the colon and obtain biopsy samples may be necessary to obtain a diagnosis.

Although there are many causes of bloody stool, an examination by your dog’s veterinarian and diagnostics should help to determine the cause and get your dog back into good health.

Clonidine is a medication worth trying to treat your dog’s anxiety, especially if none of the more popular medicines (such as fluoxetine, trazodone, or clomipramine) prescribed by your veterinarian have worked so far. It’s not one of the first-line medications typically reached for by practitioners, but it just might be the ticket.

Anxiety in dogs manifests in many different ways, some of which can be dangerous to you, other people and even your dog. Anxious, fearful dogs sometimes lash out with aggressive behavior in an effort to create more space for themselves. Others become destructive, potentially injuring themselves. Clonidine can help dogs with severe anxiety and is an ideal adjunct to gentle behavior modification techniques. Clonidine dosages depend upon the dog’s weight and may be adjusted to find the ideal level for an individual dog.

While there are several medications commonly used in veterinary medicine for anxiety, not every drug will work for every dog. Occasionally a medication may have a paradoxical effect in a dog and cause increased agitation. Sometimes the side effect of a medication makes it unpleasant for you or your dog. Often, a combination of medications is necessary, along with behavior modification. The process may require a fair amount of tweaking in the beginning, trying different medications and dosages in order to achieve the desired effect with minimal side effects.

How does clonidine work?

Clonidine is categorized as an alpha-2 agonist. This class of drugs inhibits the release of adrenaline (norepinephrine) in the central nervous system. It is best used as an add-on medication, as opposed to stand-alone help for anxiety.

Adrenaline is the hormone released by the adrenal glands in response to fear, stress, and anxiety. It’s the one responsible for the “fight or flight” response. When something threatens or scares you, what happens? You get an adrenaline rush. Your heart rate increases, your blood pressure increases, your muscles tense up, you feel upset, ramped up, and tense.

The same thing happens in your anxious dog. But by inhibiting the release of adrenaline with clonidine before the dog gets upset we can decrease his arousal and overreaction to triggers. It’s imperative for this medication to be given before the stressful or fear-invoking event. Clonidine inhibits the release of adrenaline, but if your dog is already bathing in the stuff, it’s too late. So be sure to give it 90 minutes before the event. It’s short-acting, wearing off after four to six hours; it can be repeated after six hours if necessary.

When used as part of a long-term behavior management plan for anxiety, clonidine is typically given twice daily, along with a longer-acting anxiolytic (anti-anxiety) medication like fluoxetine or clomipramine. One of the benefits of clonidine is that, as an alpha 2 agonist, it’s in a completely different class of drugs than the other anti-anxiety meds commonly used, so you can conceivably add benefit to your medication protocol without doubling up on side effects specific to each class of drug.

Dosage of clonidine for dogs

Most veterinarians start their canine patients on the lowest effective dose and incrementally increase the dosage as needed. The starting recommended dose is 0.01 milligram (mg) of clonidine per kilogram (kg) of the dog’s body weight, and the maximum is 0.05 mg/kg.

Ideal uses for clonidine in dogs

Clonidine works best for treatment of fear-based behaviors. Examples of these would include separation anxiety, leash reactivity, fear-based aggression, noise phobias (thunderstorms, fireworks), and fear associated with veterinary or grooming visits. For these cases, clonidine can be used “as needed” before the inciting situation. You might give a dose to your dog who suffers from separation anxiety about 90 minutes before you leave. If you walk your leash-reactive dog twice a day, you can pre-medicate him for his walks. Thunderstorms may be difficult to predict in advance, but the Fourth of July is a no-brainer. If your dog struggles during veterinary visits in spite of trazodone and gabapentin, a popular combination prescribed by veterinarians for vet-visit anxiety, ask if adding clonidine is an option.

Dogs with daily stressors that can’t be avoided (for example, if you live by an airport or train tracks and the sounds make your dog anxious) may benefit greatly from adding clonidine twice a day on a regular basis.

Clonidine side effects

The side effects caused by clonidine are not too bad. The biggest one is sedation. Because of this, your veterinarian will start with a lower dose, to see how your dog reacts to it. If sedation is not an issue and the unwanted behavior persists, the dose will be increased. Dry mouth is a known side effect of alpha 2 agonists in humans. Some owners observe side effects of increased water consumption and lip smacking, which may be a consequence of dry mouth in your dog. Alpha 2 agonists lower blood pressure and heart rate. Because clonidine is mild, this is rarely an issue, although caution is advised when used in dogs with cardiovascular disease.

When is clonidine contraindicated?

To avoid compounding effects on blood pressure and heart rate, it is best not to combine clonidine with other alpha 2 agonists, like Sileo (oral dexmeditomidine), a sedative that is sometimes dispensed for use at home, or to be given before vet visits. Clonidine should not be used with monoamine oxidase inhibitors like Anipryl (selegiline), a medication used for treating canine cognitive dysfunction. Make sure your veterinarian knows about all medications that you give your dog.

Clonidine is not a federally controlled substance in the United States. There are no currently approved veterinary products that contain clonidine, which means its use is considered extra-label. This is not unusual for behavior-modifying medications in veterinary medicine. Your veterinarian will discuss the risks and benefits of using this medication off-label, allowing you to give informed consent. Rest assured, clonidine has been used extensively in veterinary medicine and is recommended by veterinary behavior specialists on a regular basis.

A relaxed, calm dog is a happy dog and a wonderful companion. If your dog suffers from fear-based anxiety and the medications that have been prescribed for him are not getting the results you want, ask your veterinarian about adding clonidine to your dog’s medication regimen. It has great potential for promoting calm, which helps your dog handle his stressful challenges.