Most of the time, when dogs do something we don’t want them to do (such as stealing our socks or jumping on our elderly aunt), the first thing out of our mouths is “NO!” We’ve all done it. But you may have had a dog trainer or two tell you not to use the word “no.” Why not? Shouldn’t you correct your dog if he makes a mistake?
First off, in most cases, simply saying “no” (even if you say it loudly) doesn’t work. (If saying “no” did work, I’m quite sure my phone would stop ringing and I’d be out of a job.) In addition, when we use intimidation to stop our dogs from doing a behavior we don’t like, we may damage our relationship with our dog. Lastly, saying no provides no direction to your dog; it does nothing to tell your dog what she should do instead.
So if saying “no” isn’t the answer, how do we stop unwanted behavior? Here is a formula that you can apply to almost any unwanted behavior for great results:
1. Start with liberal doses of management.
“Management” is dog trainer lingo for prevention. It means making sure your dog doesn’t have the opportunity to “practice” the behavior you’d like to stop. Whether that behavior is chewing your shoes, jumping on your kids, or barking as your neighbor’s dog walks by your house, the goal is to figure out a way to stop your dog from doing it until you can teach her what she should do instead.
This may entail getting creative – or at least putting your shoes in the closet. Use baby gates, crates, window blocks, and leashes. If you have a puppy, you may need to keep a toy in your hand when you pet your pup to keep her from mouthing. If your dog habitually barks at things she sees out the window, you may need to apply a visual block so she can’t see outside. If your dog jumps on visitors to your house, you may need to put up a baby gate so your pup can’t charge up to people when they come in the door. You get the idea. Once management is in place, you can move on to step two.
2. Remove reinforcement.
There is always a reason a dog does something that we don’t want her to do. It may be an expression of normal dog behavior and we need to provide other outlets for that behavior. The dog may be anxious and exhibits the behavior to alleviate anxiety. Dogs practice some behaviors we don’t like because they are fun (such as jumping on us), but sometimes these behaviors are an expression of frustration or fear (such as barking or tearing up the carpet).
Try to figure out why your dog does the behavior. Does jumping on you get your attention? Does getting into the garbage alleviate boredom? Will racing around the house with a sponge entice you to play the keep-away game? Does pulling on the leash mean the dog gets to drag you to and make you wait at the source of an interesting odor? Before you can effectively stop an unwanted behavior, you have to be able identify what is reinforcing the behavior and either remove that reinforcement or meet the dog’s need in another way.
3. Teach the dog what you want her to do instead.
Remember, saying no fails to tell your dog what to do instead. Teaching your dog what to do instead of (fill in your behavior issue here) is a major factor in successfully solving that problem behavior. For most of us, this is a huge change in our thought process.
- Instead of jumping up, I would like my dog to greet people calmly with all four paws on the ground.
- Instead of begging for food when we sit down to eat, I would like my dog to go settle on her bed.
- Instead of barking out the window, I would like my dog to come and tell me if there is something to worry about outside.
- Instead of lunging toward dog friends, I would like my dog to sit while I snap off the leash before play.
- Instead of pulling on the leash when we walk down the street, I would like my dog to walk next to me.
- Instead of running off into the woods, I would like my dog to stay within 30 feet of me on off-leash jaunts.
When we come up with something our dog can do instead of the undesirable behavior, we have identified an achievable goal. And from there we can lay out a training plan to meet that goal!
4. Use a positive interrupter.
Don’t we ever get to say “no” to our dogs? Setting limits and having boundaries (both physical and behavioral) are important in life, as well as with our dogs. It is okay to stop your dog from doing something that is unsafe or even just annoying. The key here is how you stop her. Clear and consistent feedback can be effective.
For example, if you can see that your dog is considering jumping on the couch and you’d rather she didn’t, you can calmly and consistently interrupt the behavior and redirect her to her own bed.
I like to use something called a positive interrupter (PI). There are different types of PIs. The one I find most valuable is a noise or word that means, “Disengage from whatever you are doing and pay attention to me!” It is remarkably easy to teach initially, but it does take a lot of practice to generalize it so that it will work in more difficult situations.
To teach a positive interrupt:
a) Choose a word or noise.
Many people use a kissy noise or tongue click. Some people say “Watch!” or “Look!” Alternatively, you can use a more traditional approach and say “Leave it!” or “No!” The word doesn’t matter; what is important is the way you say it and the meaning you give to the word. The word is simply a cue; it’s not meant to be used to threaten or intimidate the dog. Use it in a clear and cheerful tone, as you would with any cue.
This is extremely important if you choose a word like “No!” as your PI. Most humans frequently use “No!” as a stern command or a threat of punishment, and find it nearly impossible to always say it cheerfully and happily. Try to think of it as just another random cue and say it cheerfully!
b) Say your PI and then immediately give your dog an amazing treat.
This is a time to bring out the big guns: chicken, roast beef, or whatever your dog loves most. Say your PI cheerfully and immediately feed your dog several pieces of roast beef, one right after the other. Repeat this a dozen or so times, or until your dog looks expectantly at you when he hears your PI. You are using classical conditioning to build a conditioned emotional response (CER) to the word. This step will help your dog respond even around really tempting distractions later on.
c) Teach your dog to disengage and look at you.
Cheerfully say your PI when your dog is mildly distracted. If he has developed a CER to the word, he will look back at you expecting the roast beef. At this point, “mark” the moment when he looks back with a signal of some kind, such as the click of a clicker or the word “Yes!” and then give him several pieces of roast beef in a row. Repeat this step until your dog is happily and joyfully orienting to you each time he hears the PI.
d) Practice around distractions.
Start with easy distractions such as a piece of paper or a boring toy. Gradually work with more difficult distractions. For those really tough distractions such as a squirrel running in the trees, you may have to practice at a distance first. Keep reinforcing your dog when he orients back to you until he will do it in most circumstances. At that point, you can begin to use your PI to interrupt your dog when he’s doing something that you would prefer he didn’t do.
Interrupters work in the moment, but they don’t necessarily teach your dog not to do the behavior in the future. An interrupter is a temporary solution. If you consistently follow your interrupter with a cue for an alternative behavior, you are more likely to have long-term success. For example, if your puppy starts to chew on a table leg, you can say your PI and then redirect your pup to chew on a toy instead.
5. Use force-free corrections sparingly.
Yes, there are ways to “correct” a dog without resorting to pain or intimidation.
Timeouts are one example. A timeout removes the opportunity for reinforcement. If your puppy bites your hand in play, you can “mark” the moment the teeth touch your skin with an “ouch” or other noise and stop playing for five to 10 seconds – then resume play. When repeated several times in a play session, the puppy should figure out that his teeth on your skin makes the play stop – bummer! He will try to avoid mouthing you in the future in order to keep the play session going.
Other similar corrective measures include walking away from your dog, putting toys or treats away, or preventing your dog from engaging in an activity he would like to do. This approach can be successful at stopping behaviors that are reinforced by your attention.
That said, however, timeouts require very good timing and must be used consistently. If your dog is not clear about what is stopping the play, for example, he may just get frustrated, and frustration can lead to an increase in unwanted behavior. Use timeout techniques sparingly, if at all.
Customize the Plan
In most situations, the first three steps (putting management into place, removing reinforcement, and teaching an alternative behavior) will work to stop unwanted behaviors. Interrupters may help for behaviors that are more difficult to manage, and timeouts can be used sparingly for behaviors that are being reinforced by you.
Keep in mind that stopping unwanted behaviors doesn’t always follow a linear path. Sometimes you will need to reevaluate and rework your training plans until you find the right formula for you and your dog.
Mardi Richmond is a dog trainer, writer, and the owner of Good Dog Santa Cruz, in Santa Cruz, California.
Problem with my dog ball obssessed he is 3yrs old now I’m 73 ,we have a big park I take him to with chucker but he tries to get ball off me even though he has one in mouth I had to go to A E the other hweek where he tried to snatch ball ,he pulled me over few days ago thought I’d lost my front teeth where he dropped his ball and desperate to get at it I’ve got ripped pockets as he tries to get ball out off pockets before I have a chance ,he’s never bothered about other dogs before just ignored them even if they ran off with his ball he would just come to me for another ,but just lately he’s wanting to fight dogs he’s even starting to lunge at cycalist going by since he pulled me over I’ve taken all balls away from him and just making him walk round field on a halti am I doing him more harm taking his balls away ? Please advise thank you
Hi Sandra, It’s time to talk to a trainer. I can’t go into everything that you need to do here, but you definitely need to get help before you get hurt. Your dog is very ball motivated, so getting the right trainer will help to fix this issue. Please don’t wait!
Also, I now see that this post is years old. I’m sorry that no one got back to you on this. I hope you and your dog got the help you needed! 🥰
Also, does no one respond to these comments?
We have a 11 yo Portuguese Water Dog. Medical Alert Certified and then TDI Certified. Now retired and has been wining for food when we are ate the table. I’ve tried high pitched whistle, click etc. she used to have a perfect Go to Place and would never move til released. Things have now changed. Please help with the whining. Thanx
This is a great plan when your dog has a real motivator. It is much more difficult when your dog isn’t food or treat motivated and when, at least so far, we have found nothing that motivates him. We can barely get him to eat his dinner (and we have tried many different foods and treats to get him to eat. Treats are something he turns his nose up unless he feels like trying one. And then it is a sniff it, mouth it, drop it , pick it up process. Any great suggestions for dogs without motivational interests?
you just haven’t found a treat he really likes. the smellier the better, nuked chicken wieners, tripe, roll over nuked, try some high value foods Miklbones and organic cookies aren’t it. unless theyre rolled in bacon fat.
Our lab-pointer mix was similarly disinterested in food and showed no other symptoms/ issues. We had her tested and found that she was allergic to food mites (who knew these existed?). She was taken off all grains, including those in treats. Once her tummy was better, she was more food oriented, ate better, and was a star at dog training class. Treats were cheese and pieces of roast beef or turkey.
First of all, you want to take away special treats from his normal diet. If you had chocolates for dinner every day, you’d no more see it as special. It applies here too. It might make him eat less for a while, but that’s okay. After he has adapted to his new treat-less diet, reintroduce lesser treats to spice up his meals. That is up to you. The main point is to save the main treats for only rewards. They should be a rarity in his normal diet or in very little amounts per meal. That will re-ignite his interest. The rarer, the more valuable. Then some extra advice. If the dog barely eats, practice specific feeding times. Say, 10 minutes in the morning and 10 minutes in the evening. Maybe throw in the afternoon on days that he barely eats in the morning. After the 10 minutes for eating, take away the food and do not return it until the next mealtime for the exact 10 minutes. It will take consistency and heart (he might starve for quite a bit while he gets used to the new rules), but it will be worth it once he adjusts. He’ll value food a lot more.
Several months ago I subscribed to your news letter so that I could get the booklet you promised naming the best dog foods. I called after two months and said I never got it and I was told a new one would be mailed to me and I would get it in a week. Nothing came.
I have the same problem as the above comment. I subscribed for the best food issues but have never received them. Are they part of the subscription or do I have to pay separately for them?
I have the same problem as the above comment. I subscribed because I want the best food issues, wet and dry foods. I don’t know how else to reach you.
Roberta and Dian…Do a search on line for the past issue of best foods. They won’t mail you out one. If you are a subscriber, you have access to past articles on the WDJ website.
What do you do if your dog becomes nervous during storms? He wasn’t this way when we adopted him three years ago (I blame my husband, who can freak out during a strong thunderstorm). Over the past year, he’s gotten to the point where he pants heavily and is quite restless. Putting him in our bedroom (doors closed and light on) works well — he’ll lie down and go to sleep. It’s just when he’s around us.
I use the Thunder Shirt for calming and it works for my dog
Many times that can be that your dog “feels” the storm first. There is electricity in the air, rub your dog with a anti static dryer sheet, even a used one. A GOOD a
Quality CBD treat like Super Snouts CBD treats work great for us
Why doesn’t Whole Dog Journal follow the ongoing research from Tufts, UC Davis and University of Illinois on the link between grainfree food, food with peas and legumes and deadlyheart disease???
See ” taurinedcm.org” or follow the group on Facebook “taurine-nutritional dilated cardiomyopathy”.
Why are you perpetuating feeding deadly grainfree food? I am highly disappointed
It is NOT a grain free/grain issue. I am a Animal Nutritionist. The DCM is plainly a lack of meat and organ meat in our dogs food. If the FDA had not allowed plant protein to be included in the protein percentages on the label, than the General Public would not be mislead. The theory of legumes impacting the absorption rate of Turien is a valid theory but most studies are too early and inconclusive. There are plenty of grain food that lacks in meat and Taurin as grain free.
WHY DOESN’T WHOLE DOG ANSWER PEOPLE WHEN THEY ASK SOMETHING??
Yep, and sometimes they don’t post my comments as well 😉
So I have to greet my guests with meat in my hand in case my dog jumps on them. Then the next time my door bell rings my dog knows if he jumps on them the will get some tasty meat that I have to have in my hand which again keeps me from properly greeting my guests (not to mention the grease that gets on the door knobs).
I don’t want to sound like “defeatus debbie” but this just seems a little gross and self defeating. Please help me understand what I am missing.
I think what’s hard is practicing people coming to the door. It’s hard to work on something that happens sporadically. If you’re lucky you can set up a date w someone for practice. I think the point is to get your dog to sit and stay, away from the door. Also you kind of need to know they’re coming and maybe unlock the door so you can stay with your dog, a few feet in front of the door, and not have to go to the door. Then you can reward the dog for his sit and stay. Of course they kind of need to know how to sit and stay first. I’m no trainer, just some things I’ve tried. And of course it helps if the guest cooperates and doesn’t encourage them to jump!
NO works and works well for a variety of behaviors with my two dogs. They want to please me and they understand what NO means, regardless of tone of voice or whatever they are doing. For specific results, like not jumping on people, as my enthusiastic young dog is inclined to do, I follow NO with SIT and STAY and that is working.
I’ve rarely used treats as incentives or reinforcers. They get verbal approval, pets, scratches, and rubs when they do well.
My new pup is a boarder collie/shepherd mix! She is so brilliant! I need guidance on her exuberant personality when it comes to meeting people. I am trying all the tricks that I have read the treats the commands the distractions but this area she just is so people friendly that the minute she see someone she loses her composure. Any suggestion would be wonderful?
I have a redbone who wants to run in an out all day doesn’t have to go potty just want to go outside if I would take we would be out 100 times. Help how do you stop this behavior it’s driving me crazy she’s 8 months old
I have a 15 m0nth cairn terrier, who pees and poops in the house mostly all the time. I take her out after her naps, after she eats etc. can stay outside for half hour and most of the time she doesn’t go until she comes back inside. I’ve tried just saying no pee pee in the house and bring her right back outside .but even when I take her out every half hour to hour, she pees in the house. and also she bites at our pants and ankles when we walk. can’t stop her from that either. And when you call her she’ll come but when you go to pick her up she backs away or runs away. that’s so frustrating!!! ANY SUGGESTIONS??
Yikes. Sounds like time for basic crate training. It will save your sanity. Most dogs will not soil in their personal space and I wouldn’t let her out of her crate unless she’s attached to you with a short leash. If your eyes aren’t on her leave her in the crate. Except for potty breaks of course. Good luck. The nipping I’ll leave to someone else. That sounds painful.
Sorry, just realized how old this post was.
Whining all the time it’s a beagle mix like a cry always has to touch you
Hello Mardi Richmond,
First of all, thank you for sharing such amazing and informational stuff, this information was very much needed of most of the dog owners.
I want to add one thing to this information, and I think this will help a lot of dog owners. The best method for behavioral training of your dog is to understand the language of your beloved dog. Lack of communication is very crucial, without communication your dog is vulnerable to many behavior issues.
Now the question is, how to eliminate the communication gap between me and my dog? The best practice is to spend time with your dog, and by the week or two, you will able to communicate with your dog, and when communication is easy, do these steps which are explained in this article by Mardi Richmond.
It really helped when you said that consistent feedback is the key to correcting my pet’s behavior. My dog keeps on climbing on our bed and his paws damage the fabric, so I’m hoping that he can get rid of this habit. Maybe I can also try enrolling him in a dog trainer school so some of his behavior can be corrected.