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Are There Home Remedies for Mange?

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Home remedies for mange are ineffective and veterinary care is required.
This puppy has a severe case of demodectic mange. No type of home treatment is effective for treating this, and delaying diagnosis and appropriate treatment is inhumane. Moreover, effective treatment may be a simple matter of one dose of a prescription medication. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

Mites cause two types of mange, Demodectic and Sarcoptic, which is also known as scabies. Both cause itching, hair loss, pain, secondary infections, and relentless scratching, biting, and licking. There are no effective home remedies for mange, so prompt veterinary care is essential.

Demodectic mange is spread by Demodex mites, which are present on dogs in low numbers as part of their normal fauna. Demodectic mange is not contagious between dogs, and in dogs with healthy immune systems, the mites don’t create problems. In vulnerable dogs, it spreads across the body, lasts for more than one or two months, and may involve all four feet. Hair loss, yellow debris matted around the base of hairs, red bumps, and variable itching are the main symptoms. Hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, and other autoimmune disorders can trigger outbreaks.

Canine scabies (sarcoptic mange) is less common, affecting up to 4% of dogs, but is more serious. Mites burrow into the dog’s skin, usually where there is little hair, such as near the ear flaps, elbows, hocks, and belly, and the results are extremely painful. Non-stop scratching leads to lesions, crusting, and hair loss. Sarcoptic mange is highly infectious from one dog to another.

How is mange treated?

Traditional home remedies form mange such as the topical use of motor oil, lemon juice, yogurt, or aloe vera are not recommended, as they are all ineffective and often harmful to the patient. Repeated lime-sulfur shampoos or dips and the anti-parasitic medication ivermectin were the main treatments for both types of mange until recently, when isoxazoline drugs (such as NexGard and Bravecto) replaced them. Originally developed to control fleas and ticks, isoxazolines are highly effective at treating mite infestations, but can cause adverse neurological side effects in some dogs, requiring a thorough medical exam before prescribing.

Mange requires prompt and appropriate treatment with prescription medications that will kill the mites that cause it. Additional supportive care in the form of antibiotics to treat infection caused by scratching or chewing, and medicated baths may be needed as well.

How to Teach Your Dog to Spin

Many dogs will spin more readily in one direction than the other. Encourage your dog to spin in both directions; just use a different (and consistent!) cue for a clockwise and a counter-clockwise turn. Photo by Nancy Kerns

There are long lists of fantastic fun tricks you can teach your dog – and “Spin” is one of my all-time favorites. “Spin” simply asks your dog to turn in a 360-degree circle – easy-peasey to teach, and fun to show off!

  1. To start, ask your dog to stand in front of you, facing you. If she keeps sitting, back up and invite her to move forward toward you as you begin to lure the spin.
  2. Have a treat in your right hand and put it at the end of her nose. Lure her to your right (her left) by moving the treat in an arc toward her tail.
  3. Move the treat in a 45- to 90-degree arc. If she follows the lure, moving her feet in the beginning of a spin, mark (using the “click” of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and give her a treat. If your dog follows the lure easily, go the full 90 degrees. If she’s a little hesitant, start with 45 degrees (or less!).
  4. Gradually increase the arc, marking and treating generously, until she’s doing a full 360-degree turn with a mark and treat at the end.

Add the “Spin” Cue

Fade the use of a food lure as quickly as you can, and gradually make the gesture you use as a cue smaller and smaller, until she will spin or twirl on just the verbal cue or with a tiny hand or finger gesture. Photo by Nancy Kerns

When your dog does the full circle easily every time, add your cue. I use “Spin” for a right turn (counterclockwise), and “Twirl” for a left turn (clockwise). Be consistent! Of course, you can use whatever cues you want. I also like “Twist” and “Shout,” and “Donut” and “Cheerio.” Start saying your cue just before you lure her. Gradually minimize the hand motion and eventually fade the lure completely, until she’ll spin on just the verbal cue or with a tiny hand or finger signal. (For information on how to fade the use of a food lure, click here.) For “Twirl,” do the same thing – only start with the treat in your left hand and turn her the opposite direction.

Now go show off to your friends and family!

When Do a Dog’s Baby Teeth Fall Out?

A dog's baby teeth begin falling out around at 12 to 16 weeks.
A puppy is born without teeth but will have her 28 baby teeth in place by the time she’s about 6 weeks old. Providing proper chew toys will help her get through both the emergence of those baby teeth and the sometimes painful change to adult teeth. Credit: yellowsarah | Getty Images

A dog’s baby teeth fall out between 12 to 16 weeks old. The incisors (small teeth in front) tend to be the first to fall out. You might find lost teeth, but it’s unlikely. These teeth are tiny, and many puppies swallow them as they loosen up.

Symptoms of a Dog’s Baby Teeth Falling Out

Your puppy’s gums may appear swollen, and her mouth is now tender. You also may notice these signs that your puppy is losing her baby teeth:

  • Blood on chew toys
  • Chewing, lots of chewing
  • Blood on puppy’s mouth
  • Hesitation to chew hard treats
  • Swollen gums
  • The appearance of adult teeth breaking through the gums

Help for Puppy Teething

While her teeth are switching over from her first 28 deciduous, or “baby,” teeth to a full set of 42 adult teeth, your puppy will chew. And chew, and chew. As always, you should watch what she’s choosing as a chew!

Most puppies do enjoy some cold, soft chew items while teething. Soaking a washcloth in cold water and freezing it before giving it to your puppy will help comfort her gums. Soft or semi soft chew items such as Kongs made for puppies are good choices, too. Always supervise chewing, as she may break off pieces of chew items and it’s preferable if she didn’t swallow them.

Resist the urge to introduce tooth brushing until she is through the irritating teething stage. Instead, offer her some enzymatic dog toothpaste (poultry flavor tends to be a big hit) to lick off your fingers.

By the age of 6 to 8 months, your pup should have her full set of adult teeth. Occasionally, a baby tooth will remain in place, with the adult tooth beside or behind it. Your veterinarian may recommend pulling the baby tooth to allow the adult one to grow in normally. Your puppy’s bite (how her front teeth mesh) should be apparent by this time as well.

Rapamycin: The New Anti-Aging Pill for Dogs?

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Shot of a senior woman out for a hike with her dog
Rapamycin’s ability to regulate the growth of cancer cells made scientists wonder whether rapamycin could work the same way on non-cancerous cells, extending the life of those cells and acting as an anti-aging compound. If this proves to be true, the implications for its use an an anti-aging drug – in humans and dogs – would be profound. Photo by PeopleImages, Getty Photos

The average life span of dogs is about 11 years, with some variation based on size and breed. It would appear that there is now a drug that can extend the length and quality of some dogs’ lives. Rapamycin is a compound that has been found to have a number of important medical uses, including as an anti-fungal agent, an immunosuppressive drug that prevents rejection in organ tranplant recipients, and an anti-cancer drug. It’s already been found to improve cardiac function in dogs – and now it’s being investigated for its ability to extend an animal’s normal lifespan.

Use of Rapamycin in Dogs

Many parts of a dog’s body decline as they age. They lose lean muscle mass, have decreases in heart and immune system function, and can experience cognitive dysfunction. Their risk of developing cancer increases. These changes also happen in mice (and humans!).

Low-dose rapamycin therapy was found to reduce the incidence of cancer in mice. Improvements in both cognitive and muscle function were observed. Declines in heart and immune function were reversed. Low-dose rapamycin therapy also improved the state of several age-related conditions in mice. Recent studies have shown that administering low doses of rapamycin to mice extends their lifespan by 25%.

A study published in 2017 found that low-dose rapamycin therapy improved cardiac function in dogs. Owners of the dogs involved in the study also noted positive behavioral changes, but this requires more study to determine if these effects were due to rapamycin. If the drug works in dogs in a similar fashion as it does in mice – and the indications so far suggest that it will – rapamycin may turn out to be the next big drug

We live in an exciting age of medical research and advancements. While the fountain of youth may be mythical, rapamycin has some exciting prospects in the field of anti-aging. And the benefits may exist for both us and our dogs!

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

You Can Participate in Dog Aging Studies

Researchers with the Dog Aging Project are examining how a dog’s genetics, environment, and lifestyle influence how dogs age. They are currently recruiting dogs from all over the United States to participate in a community science studies – some of which can be done from the comfort of your own home.

Further, dogs who are enrolled in the Dog Aging Project may be eligible to participate in the Dog Aging Project’s Trial of Rapamycin in Aging Dogs (TRIAD) study. The Washington State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital (WSUVTH) is a participating partner in this study, which is being designed to determine whether rapamycin increases the lifespan of companion dogs. A secondary purpose is to determine whether rapamycin improves various measures of health in aging dogs.

If they pass the screening exam, dogs will then be randomly assigned to receive either rapamycin or a placebo for one year. Enrolled dogs will need to return to the WSUVTH in Pullman, Washington, every six months for a three-year period. At each return visit, physical exam, blood pressure, sample collection, ECG, and echocardiogram will be repeated. After that, owners must be willing to take their dogs to their primary care veterinarian once per year for an additional two years of study follow-up.

We will be looking forward with great interest to the results of these studies. Rapamycin seems to have many benefits to offer our dogs – and any increase of our time with them would be extremely welcome.

Please Stop Saying “Kill Shelter”

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shelter puppies
My local shelter is suffering from an influx of dogs that the shelter director says she hasn't seen for 20 years, including 7 litters of puppies (from five to nine puppies in each litter) at the moment. None of the puppies nor their adoptable mothers will be euthanized, as long as they don't become deathly ill with a contagious disease (parvovirus cases abound in the community right now). The heartworm-positive mothers will be treated for their infections, and all of the puppies and mamas will receive spay/neuter surgery and go up for adoption. But because the shelter will also euthanize a number of unadoptable dogs due to aggression or serious illness or injury (like stray dogs who are brought in that have been hit by cars and are suffering massive injuries), it's often castigated as "the kill shelter." Photo by GeorgePeters, Getty Images.

Seen on my local Nextdoor page: “Is this your dog? If so, contact me ASAP. I do not want to take her to the kill shelter in town.”

Overheard in Petco: “Yes, we got her from a kill shelter in Stockton…”

Said directly to me in response to hearing that I am fostering a mama dog and her five puppies from my local shelter, “Thank you so much for saving their lives! That’s a kill shelter, isn’t it?”

Every time I see or hear this phrase, I want to SCREAM.

Dogs and cats who either lack a home, or are unsuited for or unsafe in any home, are put to death – humanely euthanized – in many shelters in this country. It’s society’s burden, with many factors responsible for the necessity to euthanize animals that no one wants and no one wants to pay for – but it’s not the fault of the shelters that bear the awful responsibility of that act.

Every shelter or rescue group that cares for and finds homes for animals plays a role in helping reduce the country’s overall euthanasia rate – but do not for a moment give praise – or financial contributions – only to the ones that are able to pick and choose how many and what animals they care for and thus do not have to euthanize animals themselves. Because it’s not like the shelters that must do it want to. Someone has to; that’s a sad, hard fact. The shelters and rescue groups that don’t euthanize are able to avoid this task because there are other ones that can’t avoid it.

Pat Miller wrote a great article for WDJ years ago, explaining the differences between the types of shelters. Briefly, to recap, some shelters limit the number and type of animals that they take in; others have contracts that require them to deal with as many animals (and some unadoptable animals) as wash up on their shores, via owner surrender (or animals supposedly “found” by members of the public), law-enforcement seizures, and animal control pickup of stray or dangerous animals. It should be obvious, but few people seem to be aware that a “limited admission” shelter that takes in only a small number of animals, and only when they want to, should not be singled out for praise (and charitable contributions) for not killing any of the few animals they take in, when the municipal shelter in the same community is contractually required to take in exponentially more animals daily – and often on a budget that would choke the limited-admission shelter to death.

For example: I just looked up the numbers for 2020, the last year for which comparable numbers were available for a limited admission shelter and the municipal shelter in the same city near me. The limited-admission shelter, built and run by a nonprofit, took in 184 dogs in 2020, and euthanized just two. Awesome. In the same year, the city shelter took in 606 dogs and euthanized just 38. Considering their budgets were likely comparable – the nonprofit, limited-admission shelter being popular in the community and garnering many donations on the strength of its “no-kill” status – I’d be more inclined to celebrate the municipal shelter for its ability to save as many dogs as they did!

I’m not suggesting we celebrate euthanasia. I am incredibly frustrated with the swelling numbers of animals being brought to shelters and desperately wish that there was more money available for all municipal shelters so more animals could be saved. But the responsibility for the deaths of unwanted animals belongs to all of society, and castigating the agencies that must carry out this horrible task is unfair. Especially when the same staff members who must bear the “kill shelter” label work so. damn. hard. to save lives, too.

Can Dogs Have Nightmares?

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Close-up of puppy’s nose
Dogs can have nightmares while sleeping, just as we do, sometimes even whimpering or screaming while they sleep. Credit: RedThinkHead | Getty Images

We dream when we sleep, and science shows that vertebrates can dream, which includes dogs. And if they can dream, then, logically, dogs can have dog night terrors, or nightmares, too. Puppies can be active in their sleep, too.

A study by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology found that all vertebrates can dream (Neuron, Jan. 25, 2001). The researchers ran a group of rats through a maze all day, tracking what parts of their brains were activated by this activity and by when they slept. The same parts of the brain were stimulated, causing the researchers to deduce that the rats were reliving their earlier activity. And, they determined that it meant the rats were dreaming.

Dog Whimpering in Sleep

If you hear your dog whimpering in his sleep, you can bet he’s dreaming. It’s part of his rapid eye movement, or REM, sleep cycle. Dogs also scream in their sleep, which is most likely due to a bad dream, just like us. That said, if a dog regularly screams during sleep, you may want to talk with a veterinarian to be sure it’s not a pain issue or other physical problem.

Basically, sleep – in humans and in dogs – comes in two main phases of sleep (both with subcategories):

  • REM or deep sleep
  • non-REM or lighter sleep

The REM phase is when both species have dreams – and nightmares. This phase usually begins 10 to 20 minutes after dogs fall asleep – you can often see their eyeballs moving underneath their eyelids during it.

Dog Dreams

The complexity of dogs’ brains, relative to humans’ brains, leads to this question: What do dogs dream about? Scientists believe that all animal dreams (and nightmares) are limited to their own, probably recent, experiences. That’s why dogs can seem to be chasing, barking at, or even eating something.

Researchers don’t believe that dogs can dream up monsters or assign fanciful personalities to real people or dogs. They believe that dogs can only relive something they’ve already done.

Therefore, a dog’s nightmare is likely based on something that he experienced, such as being beaten, starving, or being separated from his person.

Of course, we don’t know for sure that dogs can have nightmares because they can’t talk and tell us what they’re really dreaming about.

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

The Sleep Foundation says that dogs often dream things that are indicative of their breed: Retrievers dream of chasing and finding birds, pointers point at their quarry, and terriers dream of chasing and catching balls.

They’ve also found that small dogs and young dogs dream the most. They dream short dreams because their attention spans are short; large breeds have longer and fewer dreams.

All mammals have a part of the brain called the pons, which restricts large-muscle movement at sleep. It’s what keeps us from punching our partner or the wall.

But when humans or dogs wake up during a nightmare, they can be confused about who they are, where they are, or what they’re doing. Usually, humans regain control of their limbs before they hurt anyone, but dogs can accidentally bite or strike someone before regaining full consciousness.

That’s why, to remain safe, it’s best “to let sleeping dogs lie” until they’re fully awake.

Why Do Dogs Sniff Butts?

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Dogs greeting each other at a dog park.
Dogs sniffing butts as a way of getting to know one another. Each dog has an individual scent, and dogs also sniff urine spots and feces to learn who had been in the area. Credit: Jen Tepp | Getty Images

Dogs meeting other dogs sniff butts. They don’t generally call out to each other. It’s all a natural type of dog body language used when meeting another dog. Typically, they will sniff each other, often in the body areas where urine and feces exit the body. It’s analogous to reading the neighborhood newspaper and can provide social enrichment for a dog even if other dogs are physically absent at that time.

Dogs Meeting Other Dogs

Dogs learn to recognize individual dogs through their individual scents, which is why dogs will spend time sniffing where other dogs have urinated or defecated. (Yes, it is gross by human standards, but keep in mind that we are essentially “blind and deaf” when it comes to our own sense of smell.)

Canine Sense of Smell

The sense of smell is the dog’s primary sense (the other senses are sight, hearing, taste, and touch). A dog has about 150 million olfactory receptors in his nose (compared to 5 million for us mere humans), and the area that processes that information occupies about 30% of the brain (compared to 5% in humans).

It is this amazingly keen sense of smell that makes dogs such great partners in search and rescue operations and bomb detection. There are also dogs who are trained as service dogs who can sense (smell!) when their human is about to have a seizure, and dogs trained to detect cancer in blood samples and bedbugs in hotel rooms.

Sniffing Butts and Pheromones

Dogs also have a specialized organ in the roof of the mouth called the vomeronasal organ, the function of which is to detect pheromones, which are chemicals emitted into the air by animals to communicate specific behavioral and emotional states (readiness to mate, fear, relaxation, etc.). Pheromones are produced by glands (including anal glands) and can be found in saliva, urine, and feces.

How Long Does Anesthesia Last in Dogs?

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Senior dog with Elizabethan collar
Keep a close eye on your dog for at least 24 to 48 hours after he comes home following a veterinary procedure that required general anesthesia. It can take that long for all the side-effects of the medicaitons he received to wear off. Photo by JulPo, Getty Images

Dogs who undergo general anesthesia for a surgical, dental, or diagnostic procedure often receive a combination of drugs during their hospital stay, including sedatives, anxiolytics (anti-anxiety medications), and analgesics (pain medications). They also receive an injectable anesthetic agent to induce anesthesia and a gaseous anesthetic agent to maintain anesthesia once they are anesthetized.

The injectable and gaseous anesthetic agents are metabolized quickly by your dog’s body and are typically out of your dog’s system by the time he returns home. But sedatives and anxiolytics can linger in your dog’s body and the side effects they cause can last 12 to 24 hours. Analgesics are designed to remain active in your dog’s body for 8 to 12 hours after administration to provide pain relief. Analgesics can also have some side effects.

If Your Dog Is Whining After Anesthesia

Whining after returning home from a surgical or dental procedure could be due to your dog feeling a little disoriented or dysphoric. But excessive whining or crying that does not resolve within 30 to 60 minutes of returning home could be an indication that your dog is in pain. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions regarding when and how much to give of your dog’s prescribed pain medications. If your dog continues to whine or starts acting uncomfortable or restless, contact your veterinarian for further instructions.

What to Expect After Anesthesia

Being under anesthesia can slow the forward movement of your dog’s gastrointestinal system, also known as peristalsis. Your dog was also likely fasted at least 12 hours prior to his procedure. An empty stomach, combined with slowed peristalsis, means that your dog may not have a bowel movement until 48 to 72 hours after he comes home. This is normal and expected.

Sedatives and anxiolytics can make dogs sleepy, have an unsteady gait, startle easily, or be disinterested in eating. These effects typically last about 12 to 24 hours after returning home.

Dogs who experience inappetance should not be forced to eat or drink. Your dog will eat and drink when he is ready and feels up to it. He likely received intravenous fluids while he was under anesthesia and therefore may not have a desire to drink water right away.

Keep your dog away from stairs or from places where he might fall. This includes being up on furniture. Once he has recovered from anesthesia, follow your veterinarian’s instructions regarding return to physical activity after a surgical or dental procedure.

Some dogs will startle easily and act in unexpected and unusual ways upon returning home. This can include snapping at loved ones for even the mildest of transgressions. You may want to keep your dog separated from young children and other pets in the home while he recovers.

Your dog may have a slight cough for one to two days after an anesthetic procedure. Most dogs who are anesthetized are intubated to deliver oxygen and anesthetic gas directly to their lungs. Intubation is the placement of an endotracheal tube down the throat and into the trachea. Endotracheal tubes can sometimes cause tracheal irritation, resulting in a mild cough that resolves on its own after a couple of days.

Analgesics are designed to relieve pain for 8 – 12 hours after administration. Some analgesics can make your dog feel sleepy or dilate his pupils. These side effects are typically mild. The benefits of pain relief typically outweigh the mild side effects.

Side Effects After Anesthesia

Dogs who are overweight may experience side effects from sedatives and anxiolytics for longer periods of time than lean dogs. This is because many of the sedatives and anxiolytics used in veterinary medicine are fat-soluble. A fraction of the drugs administered are stored in a dog’s body fat and then slowly re-released into their bloodstream over time. This can lengthen a dog’s complete recovery from anesthesia.

While most of these side effects are expected, there are some that are not. Contact your veterinarian if you notice any of the following signs:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Not eating or drinking after 12 hours
  • Still sleepy after 24 hours
  • Still unsteady on his feet after 24 hours
  • No bowel movement after 72 hours
  • Cough that does not resolve after three days or becomes worse over one to three days

Recovery from anesthesia continues and ends at home. You are the eyes and ears for your dog’s healthcare team while he recovers in your care. Reach out to your veterinarian with any questions or concerns you may have about what you observe during your dog’s recovery period.

Air-Dried and Freeze-Dried Raw Diets for Dogs

Concerned about protecting the public from health risks posed by pathogenic bacteria in raw meat, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration imposed a “zero tolerance” regulation for pathogens in raw dog food. Many (but not all) of these products have been subjected to a “kill step” that eliminates the threat of foodborne pathogens. A few companies rely solely on ingredient testing, good manufacturing practices, and/ or test-and-hold systems – but none of these can guarantee pathogen-free foods. When handling these products, consumers must employ rawfood safety practices (washing hands and dog bowls, and protecting immunocompromised family members, etc.).

This category of dog foods is an outgrowth of the “raw diets for dogs” revolution that was sparked in 1993 with the publication of Give Your Dog A Bone, written by Australian veterinarian, Dr. Ian Billinghurst. In that and several follow-up books, Dr. Billinghurst made a case for the benefits of feeding dogs a diet that was similar to what their ancestral predecessors ate, namely raw meats, organs, and bones, improved by the addition of minor amounts of other foods (vegetables, fruits, grains).

While Dr. Billinghurst’s original goal was to empower dog owners to prepare their dogs’ food themselves, the immediate popularity of this type of diet created a market for commercial raw pet food, usually sold in frozen form. But these diets required constant freezing and reliable, fast, expensive shipping. When some manufacturers began freeze-drying their raw, frozen products in order to create shelf-stable products that were light and inexpensive to ship, a whole new industry was born.

Today, this category of food hangs loosely together by one main attribute: a high inclusion of raw meat. But the methods the pet food companies use to manufacture these foods vary quite a bit – with freeze-drying, air-drying, or dehydration processes – and the offerings grow more eclectic every year.

As disparate as they are, the products in this category share these attributes:

  • A high meat inclusion. Many of the companies claim that their products consist of 80% or more of meat, organs, and (ground) bone. Some claim to contain as much as 95%! The inclusion of organ meats (such as heart, liver, kidneys, lungs, beef tripe, and chicken gizzards) is common, as is the use of fresh ground bone. The resulting diets are highly digestible.
  • Low or zero carb content. Most (not all) of the products in this category have a very low carbohydrate inclusion. The outliers are products from Earth Animal and some of The Honest Kitchen’s foods. (Remember, dogs don’t require carbs; they can live on fat and protein alone, as long as they get the vitamins and minerals they need.)
  • High protein and fat content. Keep in mind that if you don’t include carbs in a diet, only protein and fat remain. Some of these products may contain more fat than is healthy for dogs who are overweight and/or sedentary, or who are intolerant of fat (such as dogs who are prone to pancreatitis).
  • These diets tend to be highly palatable to most dogs. Whether due to the high meat inclusion, the high fat content, the high-quality ingredients, the concentration of flavor in freeze-dried food ingredients, or the minimal processing, these foods are almost universally accepted by dogs.

Subscribers Only: Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 Approved Freeze Dried/Dehydrated Foods

How is Freeze-Dried Dog Food Made?

Freeze-dryers expose foods to low temperatures, freezing them relatively quickly. When the pressure inside the freeze-drying chamber is reduced, the trays that the food sits on are heated, causing the frozen water in the foods to transform into a gas (water vapor). Vacuum pumps pull the vapor out of the chamber until the desired moisture level is reached. Proper freeze-drying doesn’t affect the appearance or taste of foods much.

The makers of the dehydrated foods universally describe their products as “gently air dried,” making the process sound very benign. However, these foods are dried with temperatures of 140ºF to 180ºF, which changes the cellular structure (and thus the aroma, taste, and appearance) of meats, fruits, and vegetables. Note that these temperatures don’t qualify the food as “cooked.”

The freeze-drying process sounds extreme, but the process leaves most foods less damaged than dehydration, which toughens meats and other ingredients. To counter this, the moisture in air-dried diets is not as drastically low as it is in freeze-dried foods. Most freeze-dried dog diets contain as little as 5% moisture – about half the moisture content of kibble – but some of the air-dried products contain more moisture than most kibble. Ziwi Peak’s products contain a maximum moisture content of 14%, and Earth Animal’s Wisdom foods indicate they contain 18% moisture (maximum); most kibble diets contain 9% to 10% moisture.

Either process preserves the food with less damage to natural enzymes and vitamins than baking or extrusion. However, this means that the meats and other ingredients are, by definition, raw.

Subscribers Only: Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 Approved Freeze Dried/Dehydrated Foods

Raw Foods and Pasteurization

Federal law prohibits the presence of any pathogenic bacteria in pet foods. This presents raw-food manufacturers with quite a challenge, since, as you might be aware, raw meats – even the cuts sold in your favorite grocery stores – are frequently contaminated with pathogens, including Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria, and e. Coli. Each of these species of bacteria is capable of causing serious illness in humans and dogs (although, of the four, Salmonella rarely causes illness in dogs).

The thing is, it’s presumed that raw meats will be cooked before they are consumed by humans, and proper cooking renders any bacteria present harmless. Raw pet food makers have a few different processes available that will kill any pathogens present without cooking the food, and most are using at least one of them.

The most popular “kill step” in use for raw meat diets today is known as high pressure processing (also known as high-pressure pasteurization, and in either case abbreviated as HPP). HPP is also used to pasteurize many raw human foods, including many packaged lunch meats, guacamole dips and salsas, and fruit and vegetable juices.

But some of the makers of the meaty canine diets we’re discussing are such strong proponents of raw food diets for dogs that they have resisted, and continue to resist, using any sort of bacterial kill step. Instead, these companies depend on incoming ingredient testing, good manufacturing processes, and the use of “test-and-hold” programs, whereby finished products are tested for pathogens and not released for sale until results indicate the products are uncontaminated.

A test-and-hold program may succeed in detecting products that contain pathogens, enabling the company to dispose of those products and preventing them from being shipped out. But testing can’t ensure the absolute absence of bacteria in the product; only a verified kill step can guarantee a lack of pathogens in diets that contain raw meat.

Most food-industry experts feel strongly that HPP is a very safe technology; we do, too. Our personal preference is to buy products that have been rendered free of pathogenic bacteria by HPP. But we respect the right of owners to feed raw foods that have not undergone a kill step – as long as they are informed about the risks to which they are subjecting themselves and their dogs.

Interestingly, some of the makers of these products are very up-front about their use of HPP or another bacterial kill step, and others are equally forthright about their choice to forgo the use of a kill step. Still others do not disclose on their product labels or websites whether or not they use a kill step. In each case where we could determine the tack taken regarding pathogenic bacteria by each of the companies on our “Approved Freeze-Dried Dog Foods” list, we have included this information.

Approved Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Dog Foods

On the table linked below, we included companies that are making diets that meet our selection criteria, which can be abbreviated thusly: No unnamed meats or fats; only whole, lightly processed, “real food” ingredients; and no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.

The table also includes the range of protein and fat levels found in the products offered by each manufacturer. We’ll repeat this, because it’s important: Virtually all of the products in this category are high in protein and fat. It might be impossible to find an appropriate diet for a dog who cannot tolerate high fat levels in this category.

We’ve listed prices for the largest size of the products that are available; the larger sizes are generally the most economical – if that can be said at all of this category. These foods are expensive! Because of this, we suspect that few people feed them as a sole diet unless they have just one or two small dogs. With three large dogs at home, we use products in this category intermittently, mostly as training treats or as a highly nutritious food “topper” that tempts the appetite of dogs or foster puppies who are feeling under the weather.

Subscribers Only: Whole Dog Journal’s 2024 Approved Freeze Dried/Dehydrated Foods

Mixed-Breed DNA Tests and Bully Breeds

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three dogs in the grass
The mixed-breed DNA tests agree that each of my three dogs (from left: Otto, Woody, and Boone) has a preponderance of "bully" breeds in them. Each was adopted from my local shelter (in 2008, 2016, and 2022, respectively), and I feel like the breeds seen in all three of their results, from either company, make a pretty good representation of the breeds in this part of the world. ©Nancy Kerns

I just received the results of my youngest dog’s mixed-breed DNA test from Embark; I already had results from Wisdom Panel. Over the years, I’ve submitted DNA samples from all three of my dogs to both of the most reputable providers of mixed-breed identification tests. In my opinion, the results have gotten more accurate over time – and they even concur on much of the information returned. With one interesting exception – see if you can find it.

Otto

Embark

21.3% American Pit Bull Terrier

14.1% Australian Cattle Dog

13.2% German Shepherd Dog

12.3% Chow Chow

10.3% Labrador Retriever

8% Border Collie

4.3% Rottweiler

16.5% “Supermutt”

Wisdom Panel

12.5% American Staffordshire Terrier

12.5% Australian Cattle Dog

12.5% Border Collie

12.5% Chow Chow

12.5% German Shepherd Dog

37% Mixed Breed Groups

Woody

Embark

40.8% American Pit Bull Terrier

30.3% Labrador Retriever

19.9% American Staffordshire Terrier

9.0% Olde English Bulldogge

Wisdom Panel

62.5% American Staffordshire Terrier

25% Labrador Retriever

12.5% Mixed Breed Groups

Boone

Embark

42.0% American Pit Bull Terrier

29.1% American Staffordshire Terrier

8.1% American Bulldog

8% Boxer

4.7% English Springer Spaniel

Wisdom Panel

36% American Staffordshire Terrier

29% American Pit Bull Terrier

6% Boxer

6% German Wirehaired Pointer

5% American Bulldog

5% Springer Spaniel

4% Great Dane

3% Australian Cattle Dog

2% German Shorthaired Pointer

2% Labrador Retriever

2% Chow Chow

Embark thinks that ALL of my dogs have more American Pit Bull Terrier in them than anything else; Wisdom Panel thinks that all of my dogs have more American Staffordshire Terrier in them than anything.

Despite owning three of these dogs with an apparent preponderance of “bully” breeds in them, I don’t know how American Pit Bull Terriers and American Staffordshire Terriers can be so interchangeable. Who can explain this, in simple terms? I’ve read a dozen articles and am still mystified. At least the companies are consistent in their results!

Are Dogs Self-Aware?

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Puppy Facing His Reflection in the Mirror
Dogs clearly recognize that there’s another dog in the mirror, but they are not aware that it is themselves. Credit: Vitapix | Getty Images

Experts say dogs are both self-aware and sentient, able to both feel and perceive others’ feelings. Self-awareness in dogs means they understand how they affect others and the events around them. Dogs are self-aware.

Mirror Recognition Fails

We know that dogs recognize themselves by odor, but they don’t recognize themselves by sight, as the “mirror test” shows. They are not able to realize the creature barking at them in the mirror is them.

But, according to a study in Scientific American, dogs recognize other dogs as dogs and humans as, well, something else. The main reason is that their senses of smell and sight are so much better than ours.

Hence, they recognize people they’ve known before, dogs they’ve known before, and because they remember events, they remember both species if they’ve had a bad experience with them previously.

So, yes, dogs have a level of self-awareness – but it’s not the exactly same as ours.

They’re Aware of Their Bodies

The journal Scientific Reports found that dogs do, indeed, have a definite sense of self-awareness. But it’s not as strong as humans.

For sure, both research and anecdotal evidence show that dogs are aware of the size and shape of their bodies. They know if they can fit in a dog bed or on a car seat.

At Eotvos Lorand University, in Budapest, Hungary, scientists did the same study on dogs that they had done previously on human toddlers and great apes. It’s a test to see if an animal understands its body moving through space – and how to affect it – and they found the results to be roughly the same in all three species.

Using 32 dogs, from a variety of breeds and of varying sizes, did several experiments, including one in which a toy was attached to either a blanket or to the ground. In almost all cases, the dogs quickly discerned that, if the toy was attached to the blanket and not the ground, they had to move off the blanket to drag the toy to them. This showed they grasped the effect of their size or weight on the blanket and the toy.

Why Is My Dog Coughing Up White Foam?

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A dog coughing up white foam could be suffering from allergies or a respiratory illness.
The mucociliary escalator in the dog’s trachea is designed to keep dust, bacteria, viruses, and other foreign matter from entering the dog’s lungs. Ordinarily, this escalator helps trap these particles in phlegm and bring them up toward the throat, where they can be coughed out or swallowed. Photo by yellowsarah, Getty Images

A dry, hacking cough that sounds like your dog is gagging – almost as if something is stuck in his throat – followed by the appearance of foamy white mucus (known as phlegm) from his mouth are signs of tracheal irritation. The trachea (or windpipe) is the tube that connects your dog’s throat to his lungs and through which air passes. Irritation of the trachea can be a normal physiologic response or it can be a sign of illness. Understanding how the trachea works can help you recognize which cough and appearance of phlegm calls for a veterinary visit.

How Tracheal Irritation Causes a Dog to Cough and Gag

The inside of your dog’s trachea is lined with microscopic hairs called cilia. These cilia are covered by a thin layer of mucus. Cilia rhythmically beat in an upward direction, moving the mucus layer away from the lungs and toward the throat. This is called the mucociliary escalator.

When your dog inhales bacteria, viruses, dust, or anything else the body does not want to reach the lungs, these particles get stuck in the mucus layer. The cilia beat and move the mucus containing these particles toward the throat where they can be coughed up or swallowed. Inhaled irritants, like dirt, dust, or even air pollutants, are naturally trapped in the mucociliary escalator and moved up to the throat where they can be coughed up or swallowed.

Think of this clever apparatus like the up escalator at the mall. As the person riding the escalator, you are like a particle that gets stuck in the mucus. When you get on the up escalator, you have no choice but to go up to the next floor. Even if you try to run down the escalator to go back to the previous floor, the escalator is still moving you upward. And you cannot get off the escalator until you are on the next floor!

Inhaled irritants, like dirt, dust, or even air pollutants, are naturally trapped in the mucociliary escalator and moved up to the throat where they can be coughed up or swallowed. If your dog coughs up phlegm once or twice and then does not cough any more, your dog’s mucociliary escalator is doing its job. But if your dog coughs up phlegm every few minutes, there is a problem that needs to be diagnosed and addressed by your vet.

Are Gagging and Coughing up Phlegm Kennel Cough Symptoms

The most common cause of coughing up phlegm is infectious tracheobronchitis, also known as kennel cough. The bacterium Bordetella bronchiseptica is a common pathogen that causes kennel cough. Bordetella has two properties that help it to wreak havoc on your dog’s trachea. This bacterium is able to bind to the cilia in the mucociliary escalator and immobilize them, ceasing the upward movement of mucus. The mucus accumulates in the trachea and has to be coughed up. This is what causes the dry, hacking cough followed by coughing up phlegm.

Also, as the mucus accumulates, Bordetella bacteria disable the immune cells that line the trachea so they can no longer engulf and destroy pathogens. This is like sending out invitations to other bacteria or viruses to join the party and create a bigger infection. Most young and otherwise healthy dogs are able to clear the infection before it gets worse. But sometimes a simple case of kennel cough can turn into pneumonia.

Other Reasons Your Dog is Coughing up White Foam

External pressure on the trachea can cause a dog to cough up phlegm. Usually, this is caused by a dog pulling on leash. If your dog pulls on leash to the point of coughing, get some help from a trainer – or, at the very least, have your dog fitted for a front-clip harness or head halter. These management devices move the pressure from the dog’s pulling away from his throat and prevent him from pulling as strongly.

The cough associated with tracheal irritation sounds like your dog has something stuck in his throat. In most cases, he’s just coughing up mucus. The exception is when your dog has swallowed something that has gotten stuck in his esophagus. Esophageal foreign bodies can place external pressure on the trachea and trigger a phlegmy cough.

If your dog is coughing up yellow or pink-tinged discharge or blood, or is having difficulty breathing, your dog may be experiencing a life-threatening emergency. Take your dog to his primary care vet or to the nearest veterinary emergency hospital immediately.

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