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How to Stop a Dog From Pulling on a Leash

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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Woman walking her dog taking care to keep the leash loose and comfortable for them both.
Author Kathy Callahan demonstrates the goal behavior with her dog George: walking with a dog who is not pulling, so that the leash only nominally connects the two of you, displaying that beautiful “J” shape. To get there, start with a few minutes of some high-engagement, high-reward, fun training, alternating short periods of that with some opportunities to sniff to his heart’s content. Then, when you ask for this behavior, he should be primed to cooperate. Photo by Grace Callahan

Any chance you’d like to transform your dog walks from frustrating leash-pulling contests of strength to enjoyable and cooperative outings? Using a pattern of three distinct types of interaction and activity on each walk gives you a strategy to stop a dog from pulling on a leash: a phase of high-engagement training, a phase of no-expectation sniffing, and your goal activity of loose-leash walking. When employed strategically, the three components work together to dramatically reduce pulling on leash.

Start with empathy for your dog’s needs

When a human client asks me to help them with their dog’s “problem behavior,” I make it a practice to wonder how the dog client would describe the problem. If they were in a couple’s counseling session, what would the dog have to say about their human?

When it comes to pulling-on-leash conflicts, I suspect most dogs would say, “Could you stop torturing me by bringing me outside and then forbidding me from enjoying myself? Our walks are weirdly slow and straight-ahead; can we make them more interesting, please? I’d like to smell some stuff, and it would be great to play some games part of the time.”

Sometimes, the fastest way to get what you want in a relationship is to make sure your partner gets what they want, too. In the case of the dog/human leash-pulling conflict, that means offering – structuring time for and facilitating – parts of the walk that will meet your dog’s species-specific needs. Using a pattern in every outing of intentionally switching from styles of walking that dogs enjoy most, to styles that work best for you will transform that activity so that it’s more fun and less work for both of you.

“Ugh!” you might say. “That sounds complicated. I just want to walk my dog!” I know. But just give this a try for two weeks. You’ll be experiencing that gorgeous “J” shape in your leash more and more – and you may find that you feel closer to your dog and more connected to nature. I’m not promising world peace, but I swear good things will happen.

First Phase: Training

If I’ve got a dog who’s barely keeping it together at the beginning of the walk – bursting with energy – I start that walk by training with a super high level of reinforcement. Our initial steps down the driveway are going to be a string of cues: find it, heel, side, spin, heel, touch, heel, find it.

“Hey, lady, if it were that easy for me to get my dog to heel I wouldn’t be reading this article.” Fair point, but the devil is in the details. An authoritative (or annoyed) “heel!” is worlds apart from the rapid-fire fun I’m proposing. Here’s what my version involves:

A woman pauses a walk to reward her dog for obeying her commands.
Start your walks with a short phase – perhaps just two minutes! – of high-engagement, fun training. Use your very highest-value rewards and, rapid-fire style, ask for a bunch of behaviors that your dog knows well. A typical progression could be: find it (search for and eat a tossed treat), heel, side (sit in the heel position), heel, side, find it, down, find it, heel! Your vibe should make this feel like a game. Photo by Grace Callahan
  • Head-turning food, whatever that means to your individual dog. I tend to start a walk with jerky in play, and then turn to less enticing stuff when arousal levels are lower and the dog and I have gotten into a groove.
  • Rapid-fire cues. Ask for 10 different things in two minutes. Reward every single one at first! Don’t lose momentum. Keep your energy up to hold your dog’s interest. If your engagement flags, so will your dog’s. One particularly helpful exercise is “Fast! Slow! Fast! Side!” as you reward your dog for matching your varying pace.
  • Enthusiastic vibe. Note that adding “training” sections to your walks does not mean “kill the fun by being very serious and demanding things.” Quite the opposite. This is your dog’s fun opportunity to earn extra yummy treats for doing stuff he knows how to do! How great is that? Demonstrate with a happy voice, good energy, and confident connection that this is an especially fun part of the walk.

Doing a “training” section of the walk right off the bat accomplishes a few important things. It gives the dog someplace to throw that initial big energy. It confirms that I have great food on me, which will be important as we pass challenging things like that barking German Shepherd around the corner. And it starts us off psychologically together, engaged. That sets us up for better loose-leash walking.

Second Phase: “Go Sniff!”

A woman pauses during a walk to let dog sniff and engage with the surroundings.
Aim for spending about a third of your “walking” time in the phase that’s likely the most enjoyable to your dog: sniffing. Give him a cue to “go sniff!” and relax while he gets his fill of this archetypical canine behavior. Photo by Grace Callahan

“Go sniff!” is something the dogs I’m working with hear maybe a half a dozen times in a half-hour walk. That’s the signal that they can go ahead and inhale the world to their heart’s content for the next few moments. I won’t rush them or pull them away.

We humans with our 6 million nasal receptor sites cannot fathom what dogs can smell with their 100 million. That’s why it’s so natural for us to say after two seconds, “C’mon, there’s nothing there!” The dogs beg to differ. The information they gain by sniffing is probably akin to our scanning our email, news headlines, and social media gossip. I imagine they can smell the raccoons that walked down the sidewalk yesterday, the pizza that was delivered last night, the UPS driver’s cat whose fur is on the guy’s shoe, and all the other dogs in the neighborhood that passed by in the past few days. By reading the pee-mail left by other animals, and commenting with some pee themselves, they gain and share important information.

Even if you don’t take delight in your dog’s sensory experience, keep in mind that it’s also in your self-interest to let your dog sniff. Allowing our dogs to really be dogs sometimes makes it a heck of a lot easier for them to live according to our human rules the rest of the time. Sniffing is, hands-down, the easiest way to help your dog obtain his required daily allowance of dogness. This kind of data-gathering for your dog can also help enormously with anxiety and reactivity. Plus, it’s not difficult for you to provide and you don’t have to learn anything or plan anything; just stand still for a few moments or minutes while they sniff!

So the case for sniffing on walks is very strong; the key is to make it official. Obviously you don’t want your dog yanking you hither and yon whenever they catch a great scent – which is exactly what happens when we never give our dogs the option to sniff in a leisurely fashion. Faced with that utterly unfair situation, dogs will take their welfare into their own hands, put their heads down and drag their owner to the bushes.

In contrast, if an owner regularly makes a point of noticing where good smells tend to be and – just as that spot comes up, before the dog tries to pull for it – says, “Go sniff!” the entire dynamic changes. After a few weeks of this kind of pattern, the dog isn’t desperately pulling toward everything, because she can trust that she’ll get a chance pretty soon.

Third Phase: Loose-Leash Walking

Now we get to the whole reason you started reading – the loose-leash part. I started with the other sections because that mimics my typical progression: When I’m just starting to work with a dog, I expect to do a lot (maybe 15 minutes?) of alternating between sniffing and high-engagement training before we get to a place where we’re going to succeed with a section of loose-leash walking. In essence, I wait until I’ve met some natural canine needs, drained some energy, and reminded the pup that engagement with me is incredibly rewarding.

After a sniffing session, I’ll say, “Bella, let’s walk!” to indicate we’re officially in a new pattern together. Then we move ahead. I’m looking for that leash to be in a nice “J” the whole time. If the dog pulls so that the leash becomes taut, I simply stop moving. I wait. She’ll look back, which usually also creates slack. I reward that slack leash with movement forward: “Let’s walk.” If it tightens again, we repeat that cycle. Soon enough the dog learns that walking in sync with me offers its own reward: forward motion.

If I try the stop-at-every-taut-leash business with a new dog right out of the gate, it’ll be a very frustrating exercise for us both; we’ll be stopping every two feet. Many folks approach loose-leash training that way, but I don’t enjoy that one bit. Instead, if we’ve been alternating between lots of high-reward training and sniffing for 15 minutes or so, I’m set up to succeed with getting that loose leash without frustration. In fact, some pups will then be ready to relax into this style for much of the rest of the walk. Others do best if I continue to alternate sniffing, training, and loose-leashing the rest of the way.

IT’S A JOURNEY

When a dog is new to all of this, I’m highly deliberate and communicative so that we both know which part of the walk we’re in at all times: sniffari, training, or loose-leash walking. As time goes on, though, the need for that precision fades away. That early, predictably clear structure allows for mutual learning that paves the way for mutual trust – and that trust turns out to be the key.

For me, walks are about the relationship. When it comes to getting a “polite” walk, there is tons of chatter out there about equipment and complicated training instruction, but to me that mostly misses the point. What gets you to an enjoyable walk with your dog is two-way connection. Get that right, and watch the leash loosen.

Last note: Could you get a loose leash fast by using aversive tools and methods? The ones that use pain (at the very least, discomfort) and fear to ensure compliance from your captive animal? Sure. But . . . is that who you want to be? I promise it’s more fun – and much more effective in the long run – to not resort to using these tools.

How long can a dog go without peeing?

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey
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One cup of clear water against a white background
There are 237 mL in a cup of fluid. A healthy 10-pound dog will produce about 480 to 960 mL of urine a day; that’s about 2 to 4 cups of urine in an average 24-hour period. Photo by Zen Rial, Getty Images

How long a dog can go without peeing is determined by bladder size. Normal, healthy dogs produce about 2 to 4 milliliters (mL) of urine per pound of body weight every hour. Our dog for this example is Fido, a 10-pound Miniature Pinscher. Fido will make about 20 to 40 mL of urine every hour. That’s about 480 to 960 mL of urine every day!

The average dog’s bladder will begin to expand once it contains about 16 to 22 mL of urine per pound of body weight. When a bladder starts to expand, neurons in the bladder wall send signals to the brain that say, “Hey! I’m starting to fill up with urine! Tell the dog to go pee so I can be empty again.”

Ten-pound Fido will start to feel the urge to pee when his bladder contains between 160 and 220 mL of urine. If his body produces urine at the maximum rate of 40 mL per hour, he may want to pee in as few as four hours (when his bladder contains160 mL of urine). If, in contrast, he produces urine at the lowest average rate (2 mL per pound of body weight per hour), and he can withstand the urge to pee until his bladder is as full as possible (220 mL), he could go up to 11 hours before having the urge to urinate.

It’s important to note that every dog’s ability to withstand the discomfort of a full bladder is different!

HOW MUCH CAN A DOG’S BLADDER HOLD?

An average dog’s bladder can hold about 44 mL of urine per pound of body weight. For Fido, our 10-pound dog, this would be about 440 mL of urine. It would take between 11 and 22 hours for Fido to make that much urine. At this volume, Fido’s bladder would be stretched to the point of being painful. If he can’t go outside or use a pee pad, he is likely going to find a convenient place to relieve himself – like the living room rug! (And who would blame him?)

HOW LONG CAN A DOG GO WITHOUT PEEING?

The general rule of thumb for normal, healthy dogs is to let them outside to pee every 4 to 8 hours, except at night. Most dogs are able to sleep through the night without having to pee. Their urine production slows down overnight because they are sleeping and not consuming water.

Puppies and senior dogs will need to pee more often. Puppies make more urine in a shorter period of time than adult dogs. And senior dogs feel the urge to urinate more often than they did in their younger days.

Medical conditions that cause your dog to drink more water will result in your dog having to pee more often. This includes diabetes mellitus, hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease), bladder infections, and chronic kidney disease. Increases in activity level or the ambient temperature will also increase water consumption, resulting in more frequent urination.

If your dog has trouble “holding it” for less than the amount of time that his bladder should start to expand, it would be wise to schedule a checkup with his veterinarian.

Will Coyotes Attack Dogs?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Coyote on city street in winter storm
We put our dogs at risk! Due to diminishing wildlife areas, animals like coyotes forage for food in cities and other populated areas. Credit: Kate McCarty | Getty Images

Coyotes may attack dogs, but it is important to put it in perspective. Attacking coyotes are more rare than common, and most attacks occur in winter, which is the breeding time for coyotes.

Most attacks are on small dogs. An attack on a small dog or puppy might be for food (yes, coyotes will eat dogs), but in general, predators prefer to eat prey animals, not other predators like another canine. Considering how many coyotes and dogs are coexisting in most areas, the risk is low in general.

The Lone Coyote

Almost all the time, a lone coyote will skirt away from you and your dog. If you see several coyotes together, it’s usually a family group as opposed to a true pack. Still, coyotes will sometimes work cooperatively on a hunt. A lone dog is more at risk if there are multiple coyotes.

Coyote Diet

The diet for the average coyote consists heavily of rodents and rabbits, along with berries, corn left in fields, and fresh roadkill. Unfortunately, with the loss of true habitat, the ever-adaptable coyote has moved into suburban and city environments. While rodents may be prevalent, a city coyote is more likely to come across small dogs and cats.

Coyotes and People

Most coyotes will avoid a dog with a human, but if the coyote is ill, such as with rabies, all bets are off. If you know there are coyotes in your area, keep your dog on leash.

A male coyote will be attracted to a female dog in heat – I had seven howling coyotes on my front lawn when one of my dogs was in heat one time. This means you must be extra vigilant at those times. Coyotes and dogs can interbreed, so the visit may be for love, not war, but it’s still unwanted.

In the spring, coyotes are raising their pups and may be aggressive while defending their dens. Stay away from coyote pups.

Never feed coyotes or otherwise attract them to your yard. They will go to feral cat colony feeding stations as they are equal opportunity eaters.

If you spot a coyote while out with your dog (who is on leash hopefully), do not turn and run. That will attract the coyote. Make noise while moving away steadily and calmly.

Are Dogs Colorblind?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Close-up of mature woman sitting with dog while painting on canvas at home
Your dog cannot see all the colors that we can see, but he can see well enough to get along with a little help from his outstanding sense of smell and excellent night vision. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

What colors can dogs see? The colors dogs see well are yellow and blue. Red and green are not distinct. This is due to the dog’s eye having only two types of “cone photoreceptor cells” in their eyes. Dogs cannot see the range of colors that normal people do. Instead, their vision is similar to people with dichromatic – often referred to as “colorblind” – vision.

In addition, purple and blue will look alike to your dog. Red may appear brown or gray. Colors like yellow, orange, and green will all look yellow to a dog.

While your dog may not be able to tell apart toys or balls of different colors if they fit into this dichromatic color scheme, he can identify differences in brightness.

Dogs have more rods than people in their retinas, which enables them to see better at night. Superior night vision was important for hunting. Some genetic defects that cause night blindness in dogs. Briards can have this problem, which has been successfully treated with gene therapy.

Canine vision is also keyed into movement. While dogs might miss a “frozen” prey animal like a rabbit sitting still, but they quickly pick up that same rabbit if moves.

Some dogs will have difficulty picking out a red or orange toy on the lawn if it is stationary. If it is still moving, they will follow the movement of your throw. Once the toy is no longer flying through the air, bouncing, or rolling, you will notice your dog using his sense of smell to pick up the odor of the toy or your scent on the toy.

Dogs also tend to be nearsighted and have less visual acuity than humans. But, while dogs can’t match people visually, they are far superior when it comes to scenting. For a fascinating look at the color stream humans can see compared to what dogs can see, go to https://dog-vision.andraspeter.com/

Training for Connection

By
Nancy Kerns
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Because Boone almost lost his mind the first time he saw someone riding a skateboard, I bought one to use to desensitize him to that stimuli. Teaching him to ride it is in progress. Photo by Nancy Kerns

You probably already know that I’m a huge fan of training – and while I am also a proponent of teaching dogs a few key behaviors that will help you spend time together, such as sit, come, touch, wait, stay, and back up, I also love teaching my dogs to do utterly useless things for the sheer fun of learning and working together. In the process of figuring out how to best get my dog to do something specific, reinforcing his efforts and doubly reinforcing efforts that are increasingly closer approximations of the goal behavior, I learn what motivates him to try and keeps him in the game. He shows me what really doesn’t compute for him and what makes him feel like quitting, and, in contrast, what sorts of things make our activity fun for him. Teaching him a new behavior, or a new way to do a behavior, turns into a highly interactive and highly enjoyable communication session.

Both of my dogs enjoy training, but 8-year-old Woody has a much shorter period of enthusiasm for sessions of learning something entirely new, and he’s much quicker to quit if he can’t figure out the goal behavior within a few guesses. With Woody, I have to keep my energy and rate of reinforcement very high, and the increments of improvement very low, to shape a new behavior.

Boone is the opposite: He shows an incredible amount of concentration and willingness (for a just barely 2-year-old dog) to persevere; he often keeps offering behaviors long after I’ve run out of treats and called our session done for the day. He will also spontaneously offer some semblance of a behavior we’ve worked on in new and creative ways at the most random times, to my delight and enjoyment. Recently, he offered a new behavior that was so funny I have to share it with you.

As a youngster, Woody learned to back up on cue (“Back!”) very easily and quickly, but I struggled with getting Boone to offer the same behavior. I tried all the techniques I could think of, and all the variations of luring, shaping, and capturing. No matter how I tried to lure Boone backward, or move into his space to try to get him to take even a tiny step back with a single paw, he would either bow or lay down or do a quick spin. And forget capturing; if he thought treats were on the table, he wasn’t going to move an inch away from me!

Then I saw a video of a trainer who taught her dog to “target” with his back feet, enabling her to use a mat or low platform to get her dog to back up onto the target and hold his position there. Boone already knew how to touch things with a front paw on cue (“Touch!”), and he knew “Up!” as a cue to jump up onto something. So I set about teaching him to touch something with a back paw, and then shaped that into stepping up onto something with both back paws. He would very handily (pun intended) reach behind himself with a back paw and, upon making contact with whatever it was, would back right onto it. The cue for this behavior became “Back up!” – and for whatever reason, he finally extrapolated that just “back!” meant to back up (with no particular target). Voila!

A brown dog with his hind feet on a balance board looks at his owner for approval.
Though I often ask my dogs to jump up onto something for a portrait, now Boone most frequently offers to back up onto a platform or stair when I want to take a photo. Photo: Nancy Kerns

Now I can ask him to back up – but he still favors backing up onto things – perhaps because that’s where the lightbulb finally went on for him and he understood where I was going with all of this. Now, if there are treats around, or he just wants some attention, he’ll back onto something with his back feet and look for his reward. “Hey Nance, look at me! What will you give me for this?”

I have in my living room a device called a balance trainer. It’s essentially a four-foot-long slackline, which various athletes (and some of us older people) use to hone (or just maintain) their balance. Often, when we’re watching TV in the evening, one or the other of us will use the balance trainer while we’re watching a movie, or waiting for the popcorn to pop. Recently, while we munched popcorn during a movie, Boone decided that the balance trainer was his ticket to getting some of that popcorn. Spontaneously, he walked over to the balance trainer, turned to face me, and started deliberately reaching behind himself with his back feet, trying to step onto the slackline. That certainly took my attention off the movie!

I watched, somewhat incredulous, as Boone repeatedly fished about with a back paw, feeling for the two-inch wide webbing of the slackline and, when he made contact with it, placing a back paw onto the web and putting weight on it. Sure, that absolutely gets you some popcorn, you loony Boone! And within a few more repetitions of his one-paw-in-contact, when I held back from reinforcing him for that, he got one paw balanced on the line and started reaching with his other back foot. Within two minutes, he could balance with his back feet both standing on the wobbly line.

The adorable brown dog balances his back legs on a narrow ribbon.
We’re now working to see if he can learn to balance with all four feet on the slackline!

 

This behavior was 100% his idea and invention, born out of a desire for attention and treats – as well as a certainty and trust that he’d get both if he could think up something interesting enough (and not rude, like openly begging). And while some people may find an attention-seeking dog to be a pain in the butt sometimes, I love his creativity and don’t mind letting him know how amusing I find it.

I don’t know that there will ever be a use for some of these silly behaviors, but interacting while I reinforce and shape them for our amusement keeps us connected and understanding each other – and that’s what “training” is really all about, in my opinion.

Dog Mange Mites on Humans

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog chewing the area just above its tail trying to satisfy an itch.
Not all dogs that itch have mange or mites, for that matter. But a dog who is incessantly scratching and itching and clearly in misery needs to be seen by a veterinarian. Credit: Fernando trabanco Fotografia | Getty Images

Dog mange mites on humans is possible, but confined to only a few species of mites. Dog mange is a skin infestation by mites.  Canine demodex mites are species-specific, which means your dog’s demodex mites won’t thrive on you. People have their own species of demodectic mites that happily coexist with us. Sarcoptic mites on the other hand can affect both humans and dogs, but cannot complete their lifecycle on human skin making infection a matter of short term irritation.

Multi-Species Mites

A few types of mites will cross species and can cause problems even in healthy people and animals. The mite behind sarcoptic mange, Sarcoptes scabiei, is one of them. This particular mite is comfortable living on a number of hosts. Have you noticed any basically naked, but otherwise healthy, squirrels in your neighborhood? They probably have sarcoptic mange. Spot a sickly, scruffy looking fox? He probably has sarcoptic mange as well and, unfortunately, it is a serious problem for fox.

Mange Is Itchy

Dogs with sarcoptic mange are extremely pruritic (itchy). These mites burrow into the skin and cause itching, rubbing, chewing, and rolling. Dogs with sarcoptic mange are uncomfortable. Even just a few mites can make a dog miserable. With time, the damaged skin is prone to secondary infections, which only add to the overall discomfort.

Is It Really Mange?

A diagnosis requires demonstrating mites are present, if possible. Since these mites burrow into the skin, multiple skin scrapes are attempted. If your veterinarian does not come up with a mite, but still feels sarcoptic mange is a possibility, she might recommend treatment anyway.

Treating Mange in Dogs

Mange treatment requires topical therapy such as baths and dips to start with and then follow up with topical or oral medications. Revolution and Advantage Multi are examples of topical treatments that will kill sarcoptic mites. Oral medications that have shown to be effective include Interceptor, Sentinel, NexGard, Bravecto, and Simparica. Not all fhese drugs are specifically approved for the treatment of sarcoptic mange, but they are effective and can be prescribed by your veterinarian for off label use.

Human Mange

You can get sarcoptic mange from your dog. This requires close contact as the mites don’t run and jump like fleas. If you develop an intensely itchy rash just like your dog, you might have mange. The canine variant of the sarcoptic mange mite can’t fully reproduce in people, so symptoms will fade in 4 or 5 days.

People do have their own variant of this mite that can be transferred to dogs. Again, it can’t reproduce so signs fade quickly. If you develop an itchy rash which last longer than a couple of days, you should see your physician.

Why Does My Dog Chew on Wood?

By
John Strassburger
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White Labrador Retriever Dog Sitting In Green Grass and Chewing Wooden Stick On Grass
It’s not clear why dogs like to chew on wood, although one can guess it’s because it is just the right firmness with a natural scent. Credit: Bruev | Getty Images

Every dog – whether a large working dog or a small pet – seems to like to chew on things, although we don’t yet fully understand why.

A study published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science in 2021 determined that chewing was not motivated by play or activities, but 94% of households provide their dogs with a chew object.

In 2020, a study published in Frontiers in Psychology determined that chewing sticks was similar to the use of a tool. In other words, “If chewing is caused  by, at least in some cases, a pain in the teeth and some inclination to chew sticks given that pain, or occurs after consuming food that is likely to get stuck in their teeth, this direct and immediate function of the behavior should qualify as tool use.” Researchers hypothesized that a dog probably doesn’t understand the difference between chewing on a wood stick from the woods and wooden furniture. Maybe dental chews would help here.

What Dog Experts Think

Since dogs aren’t talking and scientists can’t find a solid reason for why dogs chew on wood and other things, we looked to dog experts for some consensus.  Here’s what we found

Wood likely offers a natural smell with a satisfying hardness that the dog can chew and pull apart. It’s just nature’s favorite toy. Note: Remember, wood chewing is fraught with potential veterinary emergencies, from splinters in the mouth to pieces lodged in the gastrointestinal tract and more.

Puppies need to chew, as it helps soothe sore gums, just as it does a baby who is teething.

For adult dogs, boredom appears to play a part in chewing. You leave your dog every day while you go to work or school. He probably sleeps for most of that time, but eventually he gets tired of looking at four walls and through the window at a pesky squirrel. So, one day he gnaws on a nearby table leg – and it’s fun and handy.

Anxiety can cause a dog to chew. Take that same dog but change his temperament to one that is anxious about being alone, who hears noises and voices everywhere. To calm himself, he chews up a chair from the kitchen table.

The third reason is somewhat supported by research, at least the tool idea. It’s oral health. Dogs may have an instinct to exercise their jaws and clean their teeth- or just a drive to make them feel better. Sticks and furniture are hard and rough, so they’re good for that.

What Can You Do?

Buy him safe chew toys! The type of chew toys you get depends on your dog. A Chihuahua or Miniature Poodle won’t want anything big or too hard, but a strong chewer like a Doberman or German Shepherd need big and strong toys. Kong and Planet Dog are just two companies approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council that make toys that will probably last your dog’s lifetime.

More exercise or activity will help your dog – and you. Take him on longer walks, especially before you go to work. Make more play time. Take him places to stimulate his brain.

Deterrents

To stop compulsive or confirmed chewing right away, you can mix apple cider vinegar with water and then spray or paint it on the things you don’t want him to eat. It has a sour taste that dogs don’t like, and it won’t hurt him.

But the long-lasting effect of behavior modification – with toys and exercise – is what you really need to discourage your dog’s craving for furniture.

Best Dog Food for Weight Gain

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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A black and white Border Collie sprints after a ball in the grass.
High-energy, active dogs need more calories than their quieter cousins. Credit: Hillary Kladke

If your dog is too thin, adding calories is the obvious solution. But whether you have a working dog, canine athlete, perpetually active family companion, or senior dog, there are some things to consider when selecting the best high-calorie dog food for weight gain.  Both wet foods and dry foods for weight gain can work.

Think Dog

Factors such as breed, age, size, environment, and overall health all impact a dog’s energy requirements. Dogs are known for their seemingly endless energy and enthusiasm, but sometimes that energy expenditure makes keeping weight on our companions difficult.

Working dogs and canine athletes often have higher demands than an average pet and many require high calorie dog food to maintain a healthy body weight and condition. If your dog started to lose weight without increased energy needs, however, a veterinary visit is in order.

Before changing from a food you like, consider adding a meal to put weight on your dog. If your dog usually eats twice a day, up that to three times a day, gradually increasing the amount of food, but keeping meals evenly spaced out.

Always monitor your dog’s weight and adjust their portions accordingly. Slowly transition when changing diets and be sure to consult with your veterinarian to tailor their diet to their specific needs.

Meeting Calorie Needs

High-energy diets should be calorie-dense to meet the increased energy demands of active dogs, those in stages of growth and reproduction, or to help seniors gain weight. Calories can come from a multitude of different ingredients, but their sources can be broken down into three main categories: proteins, fats, and carbohydrates.

Protein is especially crucial for dogs with high energy needs. Whether your dog is young and active, or a senior who struggles to maintain weight, high-quality, highly-digestible proteins are essential for helping to maintain lean body mass, or muscle mass. High quality, digestible proteins support muscle and cellular development, repair, and supports energy levels. Animal-based protein, such as eggs and muscle meat, provide an excellent source of highly-digestible protein for dogs.

Fat is the most concentrated source of dietary calories and is vital for boosting the energy density of your dog’s food. Look for diets with moderate to high levels of healthy fats, including omega-3 (commonly found in fish oils) and omega-6 (commonly found in plant oils) fatty acids. These fats not only provide an excellent source of energy, but can also support skin and coat health, cognitive function, and joint health.

While fats are an excellent source of energy, excessive amounts can increase the likelihood of pancreatitis in dogs. Because of this, the National Research Council (NRC) lists a maximum fat requirement of 82.5g/1,000 kcal, meaning that no more than approximately 74% of a dog’s calories should come from fat. While this is a guideline to follow, every dog is an individual, so be sure to adjust the diet as needed and always consult your veterinarian about any concerns.

Carbohydrates serve as a source of readily available energy. Including carbohydrates from grains, fruits, and vegetables can help provide energy and nutrients, such as vitamins, antioxidants, and minerals. Carbohydrate sources can also provide an excellent source of fiber, which can help with stool quality and can support a healthy gut microbiome.

Progesterone Test for Dogs and the Female Dog Heat Cycle

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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Welsh Corgi Pembroke dog feeds six newborn puppies, lies on white couch. Happy family. Pets. Childhood. Maintenance and feeding of pets. Dog breeding. Positive emotions. Raising puppies.
Some dog breeders will use home progesterone test kits to plan breeding times. Credit: Jane Rubtsova | Getty Images

A dog’s heat cycle occurs approximately every 6 to 15 months, depending on the breed and genetic trends within the female dog’s family. A progesterone test for dogs can be used to determine which part of the cycle a female dog is in and whether she is receptive to mating. The canine heat cycle is divided into four phases:

  1. Proestrus: Starts with swelling of the vulva and bloody vaginal discharge. This lasts an average of 9 days, with a range of 0 to 27 days.
  2. Estrus: The period in which the female is receptive to mating. Ovulation occurs. Duration of estrus averages 9 days, with an average of 2 to 24 days.
  3. Diestrus: The female is unreceptive to mating. Late in diestrus, mammary glands can enlarge, even if the female is not pregnant. This part of the cycle lasts for about 2 months.
  4. Anestrus: The hormonally quiet period between cycles. This can last 4 to 13 months.

Using a Progesterone Test for Dogs to Determine Breeding Times

A breeder will want to know the optimal time for mating or artificial insemination to plan for breeding-related travel and to maximize litter size. This is most easily done by monitoring circulating progesterone levels using a progesterone test for dogs. During most of proestrus, progesterone hormone levels are low. Just before ovulation, progesterone levels rise precipitously, which corresponds with a surge in luteinizing hormone.

Usually, serial progesterone levels are measured every other day starting from when the bloody vaginal discharge starts, and when the progesterone is greater than 2.0 ng/mL, assume ovulation has occurred. Most progesterone tests are done through the veterinary office, using radioimmunoassay (gold standard) or chemiluminescence immunoassay.

When You Need a Progesterone Test for Dogs

Home progesterone kits measure progesterone, and while the perspective mother might be more comfortable being able to stay at home instead of traveling for a veterinary appointment, the home kits are not as accurate as the test through the veterinary office, and they will still require a blood sample.

Whichever method of progesterone testing a breeder decides upon, when measuring serial progesterone levels, it is important for accuracy to use the same lab for all the tests and pull the blood sample at the same time of day for all the tests.

Another advantage of knowing ovulation date via progesterone testing, is that the breeder will have a much better idea of whelping date (65 +/- 2 days after ovulation). This gives the breeder a time frame in which to be more vigilant in monitoring their pregnant dog and informs future puppy owners when they might be able to take their new family member home.

Bad Breath in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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If your veterinarian says your dog is healthy but has bad breath, a home dental-care program may be suggested. Credit: LeslieLauren | Getty Images

Sudden bad breath in dogs is never normal. Bad breath, whether sudden or chronic, can be a sign of illness in dogs. In addition to the obvious causes of bad breath like tartar and gingivitis, metabolic disorders like gastrointestinal disease, diabetes, and kidney failure can cause bad breath in dogs.

If your dog is excessively licking and has bad breath, it’s time to look in his mouth. Dental disease (tartar, gingivitis, infection, periodontal disease, loose teeth), growths and foreign bodies in the mouth can all cause oral pain and drooling, which can result in excessive licking. Be sure to look at the roof of the mouth. I can’t tell you how many times I have found a stick or a bone lodged across the roof of the mouth with the dog licking excessively to try and dislodge it.

If you notice sudden bad breath or persistent, chronic bad breath in your dog, it’s time to schedule a veterinary exam. Your doctor will do a thorough oral examination as well as a full physical exam. If dental disease is identified, a dental cleaning and evaluation under general anesthesia is usually recommended. If the mouth looks healthy and the source of the bad breath is not revealed during the physical examination, a general diagnostic work up may be recommended to include blood tests and possibly chest and abdomen x-rays.

If your veterinarian determines that your dog appears to be generally healthy but has bad breath, a home dental-care program may be recommended.  The gold standard of home dental care in dogs is daily tooth brushing with a veterinary enzymatic paste. If your dog will not tolerate tooth brushing, you can visit the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) website for effective alternative approaches to home dental care including diets, chews, water additives, wipes, sprays, and gels.

Managing Risk Management

By
Nancy Kerns
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A chihuahua with a brown and white patterned coat stares intently out a window.
We have to balance the risk of every activity with our dogs with the risks of keeping them unexercised and unsocialized; this new illness is just one more instance where we have to make an informed decision and accept the consequences. Credit: Nancy Kerns.

By now, you’ve all probably heard something about the mystery respiratory illness afflicting dogs in various parts of the country. Symptoms include fever, lethargy, nasal or eye discharge, difficult or rapid breathing, mild to moderate tracheobronchitis, loss of appetite, and dehydration. In some cases, the illness progresses to pneumonia and symptoms are not responsive to the most commonly used antibiotics, and some dogs have died. The most recent roundup of news about the illness was presented in this USA Today article published on December 4, but it’s not yet known whether it’s being caused by a virus or a bacterium – though researchers at the University of New Hampshire’s Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory suspect a bacterium is implicated.

Researchers haven’t identified the causative agent of this illness, aren’t sure of how it’s spread (direct contact between dogs? Airborne secretions?), whether there are different strains of the illness, or how to treat it most successfully. So the most protective advice that veterinarians can give right now is to prevent your dog from coming into contact with other dogs, and making sure they are vaccinated against the known agents of respiratory infections; this article has the scoop on the many causes of “kennel cough” and how to protect your dog.

It may be smart to keep our dogs home, avoiding contact with other dogs, whether in dog daycare, boarding facilities, groomers, vet hospitals, or on walks or at the dog park – but is it really best for our dogs?

If there was an outbreak or reported cases in my town or neighborhood, I’d surely walk my dogs only when there was zero chance of running into another dog, and cancel any plans that called for my dogs to board or attend group classes. But on the news of a communicable disease in a nearby state, I’d perhaps tighten my dogs’ social circle to a select few dogs whose vaccination status was known to be up-to-date. I’d still attend classes or daycare where the dogs were required to have current vaccinations, but would eschew nose-to-nose meet-and-greets anywhere else. (Truthfully, I don’t allow my dogs to greet other dogs on leash ever anyway! Here is a good article on why leashed greetings should be avoided even when there are no worries about contagious diseases.)

I’ve had friends and family ask what they should be doing to protect their dogs, or if it’s safe to take them out for walks. And I have to admit, I am loath to prescribe a specific answer. In my opinion, folks need to inform themselves about the risk and then take responsibility for their decisions about the risks to which they subject their dogs. I think the answer has to be answered on an individual basis. It’s different for the person who doesn’t really take their dogs out much anyway than it is for the person whose dog becomes destructive or self-destructive if she doesn’t get a three-mile jog every day. It’s different for someone whose dog will be alone for 10 or 12 hours a day without daycare or a dog walker than it is for someone whose dog has a dog door into a secure yard or someone home all day. It’s even different for someone who has an old or frail dog than someone whose dog is young and healthy.

So, my advice is: Make sure your dog’s vaccinations for anything that can cause a respiratory disease (bordetella, influenza, and parainfluenza in particular). Call your vet (or check her website and/or Facebook page) to see if there have been any local cases reported. Keep your dog from greeting or playing with dogs you don’t know – and decide for yourself if you should maintain your dog’s regular exercise or training schedule with other known, vaccinated dogs. I am – but, at last report, we haven’t had any cases in my area.

Why Does My Dog Smell Like Fish?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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A fly-fisherman and his dog watch as a Brown Trout is released back to the river.
Unless your dog has been playing with – or rolling in – fish, a fishy smell is not something he should be sharing. Credit: Keven Cass | Getty Images

Unless your dog has been rolling in dead fish, a fishy odor is not something to expect. Three common causes of a fishy odor are anal gland expression or abnormalities, urinary tract infections, and dental disease.

Why Does My Dog Smell Like Fish When Scared?

Your dog has two glands called anal sacs located just inside her anus. These glands contain a stinky fluid and are naturally expressed when your dog poops (this is what gives dog feces their distinctive aroma).

Your dog can also reflexively express his or her anal sacs when afraid, squirting out all the stinky, oily contents. This is a useful strategy when trying to get away from a predator or other threat because the fishy stink distracts the attacker, giving your dog a chance to escape. Our pet dogs may not need to escape from bears or lions, but they still may express their anal glands during stressful events, resulting in that stinky fishy smell.

Anal glands can also become impacted or infected. The buildup of excess contents or the buildup of infection will increase the odor, and may cause your dog to smell fishy even when she is calm and resting. If you notice your dog scooting or that her hind end has an unusual odor, schedule an appointment with her veterinarian.

Why Does My Dog’s Breath Smell Like Fish?

Dental disease is a common problem in adult dogs and with it comes bad breath. Depending on the type of bacteria wreaking havoc in your dog’s mouth, your pup’s breath could smell like rotten fish.

A dental cleaning under anesthesia will remove the bacteria, plaque, and calculus from your dog’s mouth and resolve the odor.

Why Does My Dog Pee Smell Like Fish?

If your dog’s urine smells like fish, she may have a urinary tract infection. As long as your dog has had a wellness exam within the past year, your veterinarian may let you drop off a urine sample to be evaluated without bringing your dog in for an appointment. Once the urine has been examined, your veterinarian will dispense the appropriate medications to resolve the infection.

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