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Lenticular Sclerosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Old english cocker spaniels dog, close-up
As your dog ages, you may notice a bluish haze in his eyes. This is called lenticular sclerosis and is a normal part of aging. However, a veterinarian needs to make the diagnosis and rule out cataracts, which do require treatment. Credit: Elizabeth Fernandezn| Getty Images

Lenticular sclerosis in dogs, also known as nuclear sclerosis, is a normal aging change in the dog’s lenses that results in that bluish haze you see in your senior dogs’ eyes. It is not painful, and it will never make your dog blind. The important thing is to distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts, which is a whole different ballgame. That’s why you should have your veterinarian examine your dog if you’re starting to notice this bluish haze.

Dog’s Normal Aging Eye

Lenticular sclerosis happens in pretty much every dog as they age. There’s really no escaping it. The lens is a dynamic structure made up of fibers within a capsule. Over time, old fibers degenerate and new fibers are laid down. Because the fibers are encased in a firm capsule and have nowhere to go, the older more central fibers get compressed, making them denser and less transparent. This is what creates that bluish haze, which usually affects both eyes equally. Fortunately, lenticular/nuclear sclerosis will never make your dog blind, although he or she will likely not see subtle things like your facial expressions as clearly and will likely not navigate as confidently in low-light situations.

Diagnosis Is Important

With the help of special light source instruments, your veterinarian can distinguish lenticular sclerosis from cataracts. This is important, as cataracts will progress to blindness and are best addressed early in their progression. Cataracts, as opposed to the benign lenticular sclerosis, can cause secondary, painful diseases in the eye like uveitis and glaucoma. Careful monitoring of dogs with cataracts is recommended, and your veterinarian may recommend a surgical consult with a veterinary ophthalmic specialist. Early surgical removal of cataracts prevents secondary issues and preserves vision for your dog.

If you’re noticing a bluish haze in your aging dog’s eyes, but he does not seem to be having any trouble seeing, the eyes appear otherwise normal, and your dog is acting otherwise fine, there is no need to panic. There is a high likelihood this is simply the lenticular sclerosis expected with age. Still, you need to see your veterinarian to confirm and rule out the less benign situation that is cataracts.

What is the Best Puppy Shot Schedule?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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two female vets preparing a labrador retriever puppy for vaccination
Taking your puppy to the veterinarian for shots is a necessity. These vaccinations protect your puppy from potentially deadly diseases like the parvo virus and rabies. Credit: fotografixx | Getty Images

Your puppy’s vaccinations can run from $100 to $200 or more, depending on where you live, your veterinarian’s policies, and which vaccines your puppy needs. A puppy shot schedule is usually based on advice from the American Animal Hospital Association, which breaks vaccines for dogs into two categories: core and non-core. Core vaccines should be given to every puppy. These include distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus (also known as hepatitis), and rabies.

Non-core vaccines are sometimes called lifestyle vaccines and may be recommended depending on where you live and what activities your puppy will be doing throughout her life. These include Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme disease, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and canine flu.

Most vaccines need to be given at least twice, two to four weeks apart, to fully protect your puppy. The distemper/parvo combo vaccine should be given at least three times between 6 and 16 weeks of age. The rabies and Bordetella vaccines only need to be given once.

Here is a sample vaccine schedule:

8 weeks: 1st DAPP (includes distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus, +/- parainfluenza)

12 weeks: 2nd DAPP, 1st leptospirosis, rabies

16 weeks: 3rd DAPP, 2nd leptospirosis, Bordetella

The exact puppy shot schedule used for your puppy will vary depending on:

  • Your puppy’s age
  • What vaccines the breeder or rescue have already given
  • Your puppy’s unique needs
  • Your availability and preferences
  • Your veterinarian’s preferences

Should Puppy Shots Be Given All at Once?

For most healthy puppies, it is safe to give multiple vaccines at the same time. Your puppy may be tired after her appointment as her immune system processes the vaccines, but she will be back to her normal puppy antics the next day. This is generally the most economical and efficient method of vaccination.

Separating the vaccines and only giving one at a time minimizes the strain on your puppy’s immune system. The safety factor is that, when given one at a time, if your puppy has a vaccine reaction, you will know exactly which vaccine she had trouble with. (Vaccine reactions are rare.)

Giving each vaccine on its own does increase the number of trips to the vet and will likely increase your overall cost. Each visit will incur a fee for either the veterinarian to examine your pet or a veterinary technician to give the vaccine.

If you have cost concerns, talk to your veterinarian and make a plan that works for you and your puppy on your first visit. Some facilities prefer for all puppy vaccines to be given by a veterinarian, so they can observe your puppy as she grows and note any early health problems. Others are fine with a technician giving vaccines after the initial exam. Many clinics offer lower exam fees for puppies, and tech appointments are usually the least expensive.

You can also focus on the core vaccines now, so that your puppy is protected from these serious diseases and wait to add noncore vaccines later.

Does My Puppy Need All These Vaccines?

Rabies: YES!

The rabies vaccine is required by law in most states. This disease is extremely dangerous and 99.9% fatal in dogs, humans, and other mammals. The rabies vaccine for dogs cost is generally low, around $20-30.

Distemper/Parvo/Adenovirus (DAP): YES!

These three diseases are highly contagious and can be fatal. There is no treatment, and hospitalization for supportive care is often needed. All puppies should receive the vaccine series for distemper, parvo, and adenovirus.

Leptospirosis: Yes

Leptospirosis, or “lepto,” is a bacterial disease spread in the urine of infected animals. Historically dogs who hike and hunt in the woods were most at risk, but we are starting to see cases in city dogs too as it can be spread by rats. Because of this increased prevalence, the leptospirosis vaccine may be appropriate for all dogs. The vaccine protects against the most dangerous variants of the disease.

Lyme: Maybe

Lyme disease is a bacterial disease spread by ticks. It is most common in the northeastern U.S., and dogs who spend time in woods and fields are most at risk.

Bordetella: Maybe

Kennel cough is highly contagious. Dogs who spend time with many other dogs, such as at dog shows, dog parks, doggie daycare, or shelters are most at risk. Most dogs recover on their own, but puppies, senior dogs, and those with chronic illnesses may have more severe symptoms.

Canine Flu: Maybe

Like Bordetella, the different strains of canine flu are highly contagious and usually spread in areas with many dogs mingling together. If your dog goes to dog shows, dog parks, or doggie daycare, she may benefit from the canine flu vaccine.

Reducing Woody’s Weight

By
Nancy Kerns
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Two dogs amidst brown grass of winter field.
Eight-year-old Woody (right) isn’t super fat, but because he’s often so physically exuberant, especially when playing with 2-year-old Boone (left), I worry that carrying excess weight could contribute to him tearing an ACL or something. Credit: Nancy Kerns

I have a reputation among my friends and family for telling people that their dogs are overweight – so it may come as a surprise that I have been struggling for a few months to reduce my dog Woody’s weight. He turned 8 years old in November, and it was about that time that I first noticed he was looking a little pudgy. Viewed from above, he still has an indented waist, but he’s just thicker everywhere than he used to be. A recent trip to the vet and a formal weigh-in confirmed what I already knew but had been in denial about: He weighs too much!  I need to get about 8 pounds off of his now-80-pound body.

Recently, I switched his food to a couple of lower-fat, lower-calorie products, and I’ve cut back the amount I am feeding him. I’m also making an effort to get us out for more walks (I have been struggling with weight gain, too!). I’ve also been pointedly using smaller treats for training and reinforcing his recalls and other good-manners behaviors on walks. But his weight has been staying stubbornly the same.

And, like many owners, I’ve noticed that my dieting dog is becoming increasingly food-obsessed. He clearly feels hungrier on the smaller portions.

My latest idea is to switch both dogs (Woody and Boone, whose weight is ideal) to once-a-day feeding, which has enabled me to cut their total daily portion size much more dramatically while increasing the size of the one meal per day they are eating. We’ve been at this trial for a week so far, and I must say, both dogs are taking the switch to the new regimen very well; they aren’t making a nuisance of themselves at their former dinnertime.

There is some evidence for the benefits of once-a-day feeding; I just hadn’t tried it before, as (again, like most owners), I enjoy feeding my dogs a meal when the family eats. And I should note that the study that provided information about those benefits also noted that because some of the dogs in the study may have been fed once a day for varying lengths of time, the researchers “cannot rule out the possibility that dog owners shifted to more frequent feeding in response to health conditions, and observed associations are due in whole or part to reverse causality.”

Nevertheless, given the mountains of evidence for the benefits of intermittent fasting in humans, I’m going to maintain this schedule for at least a few months – and try to increase our exercise, too – and see if it helps me get some of those excess pounds off of my darling Woody.

If you’ve managed to reduce your dog’s weight to a healthier one, how did you do it? Share your dog-diet tips!

Why Do Dogs Howl?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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A husky howls in Alaska, United States, North America
Dogs howl to communicate. It could be due to excitement, pain, or simply responding to another howl (or siren!). Credit: John Elk | Getty Images

Why do dogs howl? Howling is just one of the many ways that dogs communicate. Some dogs only howl in short bursts once in a while, while others sing their wolf song loud and proud.

Wolves, coyotes, and dogs both howl socially. They might howl at the start of a hunt, or to announce their arrival or signal the location of their home den. Howling can also be a territorial declaration to tell other canines to stay off their turf.

While our pet dogs don’t need to howl for the exact same reasons as their wild cousins, dogs still howl for these purposes. Your dog might howl with excitement at the start of a walk, or to call you back home when you leave for work. She could also be communicating with other dogs in the area.

Howling May Indicate Pain

A dog howling can also indicate pain. If your dog’s howl sounds different or if howling is an unusual activity for her, a vet visit may be in order.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Night?

Dogs howling at night is no different than howling during the day. Your dog is simply communicating with you or other dogs in the area. She may also be howling out of boredom.

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Sirens can sound very similar to a dog’s howl and may stimulate your dog to respond in kind.

Dog Sniffing Food But Not Eating

By
Nancy Kerns
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A man offers a Boston terrier a tasty treat while the dog avoids looking at the food.
Man feeding his dog in kitchen

If your dog is always a picky, slow eater, and he goes on strike for a meal or two, there is usually nothing urgent to be worried about – but do mention this to your veterinarian at your dog’s next wellness examination. The pickiness may indicate a chronic problem that will improve with treatment, such as a cracked tooth or a mild case of acid reflux.

If, in contrast, your dog normally has a good appetite, but suddenly stops eating his food, you should be concerned – and even more so if you dog has any other signs of illness, such as lethargy, panting, fever, signs of pain or discomfort, or diarrhea. In that case, get him to a vet! Any time our dogs change their normal behavior, there is likely something wrong that needs investigation. Ignoring early symptoms usually costs us, and our dogs.

Potential causes of a lack of appetite

There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat:

  • Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.
  • Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food.
  • Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain.
  • Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.
  • If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Do not add flavor enhancers or human meal leftovers to tempt him into eating the food he rejected, because if it turns out that the food is dangerous, he may be harmed by eating it! Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem. If your dog eagerly accepts the new food, take the rejected food back to the store!
  • Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.

Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.

If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.

Dog Training for Kids and Other Beginners

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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12 years old girl in backyard at home teaching her black labrador puppy to sit on command. Stay a home. Weekend activities
Gorgeous! This young girl is using beautifully crisp body language to cue her puppy, and is ready with a treat in her other hand as a reward. Teaching your children to use clear, consistent cues and quickly marking and rewarding the resulting behavior will help your dog learn the expected behaviors very quickly. Photo by Stefan Cristian Cioata, Getty Images.

It makes good sense to have your offspring participate in your dog’s training program. After all, the kids and dogs in the household often spend the most time together. The level of your children’s participation in your dog’s training program will vary based on the age and abilities of the children. But even a toddler can hand feed a treat (or toss it on the floor if your dog takes treats too eagerly or with a hard mouth) when you mark your dog’s correct behavior in response to a cue, and the most dog-obsessed kids may even be able to do some of the training themselves under your direct supervision. Older children can do the training by themselves after they’ve been instructed by you or your trainer and you are confident that they are capable of doing it correctly.

Initial ground rules: Respecting the dog

I’m a huge fan of enlisting kids to help with the dog’s training at the earliest possible age, using positive reinforcement-based methods that teach children the importance of cooperation and respect. This interaction also strengthens the positive association between your dog and your child. Before you engage your child to assist with your dog’s training, however, they need to learn how to respect and interact appropriately with dogs (and other sentient creatures). It’s vitally important to teach children four important safety rules:

    1. Dogs are not toys to be treated roughly or with anger.
    2. Dogs have the right to keep their own possessions. Do not take bones, toys, or blankets away.
    3. Dogs are not to be bothered when they are eating.
    4. If the dog “asks” them to stop doing something (with body language such as stiffening, moving away, or growling), they must stop immediately.

If followed, these rules should keep your children and dog safe (because a dog who hurts a child in self-defense is likely to be surrendered or euthanized). If a child is too young to grasp these rules, the supervising adult must physically prevent the child from being inappropriate. For more about kid/dog safety, see “Kids and Dogs,” WDJ August 2019.

A side view of a young girl playing in the garden with her pet british bulldog.
If your dog or puppy shows any sign of being uncomfortable with your child’s handling, like this Bulldog puppy is displaying (ears held back, worried expression, running away from chasing child), intervene on your dog’s behalf. Kids need to know that it is unsafe to pursue or restrain a dog who is trying to get away from their interaction.

First Training Step: Practice Known Behaviors

If your dog has already learned some behaviors, start with those. Teach your child the verbal cue for an easy behavior like “sit” (and the hand signal if the dog knows one) and then show her how to get the dog to respond. Although your dog may perform the behavior reliably for you, he may be a bit confused when the cue comes from a child. If that’s the case you can prompt or lure the behavior after your child gives the cue, and then teach her how to prompt or lure if appropriate (if she is old enough and capable).

 

Introducing your child to your dog’s known “sit” behavior might look something like this:

    1. Tell your child what cue she will be using – in this case, “Sit!”
    2. Explain that when the dog sits, the behavior gets marked and he gets a treat (depending on the child’s age and capabilities you may use a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word, “Yes!”). Be sure to explain that you have to give a treat when you mark, so the marker must only be used when the dog has done what you’ve asked. If you’re using a clicker, and your youngster delights in running around the house clicking, you may need to put the clicker away when you’re not actively training!
    3. Have your child practice marking and then giving a treat to an imaginary dog (or a stuffed one!) before asking her to try it with your live dog. (If your dog is grabby for treats, have your child drop the treat on the floor.)
    4. Demonstrate (a few times) the sequence with your dog: Cue the sit, mark when he sits, and feed the treat – preferably moving the treat quickly to his lips so he is still sitting when he eats it. Demonstrate also how to prompt or lure if he doesn’t sit when you ask him to.
    5. If your child is old enough to be physically capable, have her practice the sequence. If she’s not old enough, keep giving the cues and marking and have your child feed or toss the treats, letting her participate more and more as she is able. The next step might be having her click the clicker or say “Yes!” after you’ve cued the dog and he sat.
    6. Eventually show your child how to practice all the behaviors your dog already knows. I recommend creating a vocabulary list of all your dog’s known cues and posting them on the refrigerator for all family members who are participating in the training program to refer to so cue usage is consistent.
Caucasian boy training dog in grass
Worried about getting bitten (or maybe just covered with slobber), many children are tentative about giving treats to a dog or puppy, and may inadvertently draw the dog out of their cued position by holding the treat too far from the dog’s lips. Teach kids how to put the treat right onto the dog’s lips or have them toss the treat to the dog (the latter technique is recommended if the dog really is too eager when taking treats). Photo by Steve Smith, Getty Images

Teach New Behaviors

Older kids can certainly play a leading role in teaching new behaviors to the family dog, but even the younger ones can participate in the process. How much depends, of course, on both the child and the dog, but all ages of children can take pride in knowing they have taught the dog something new.

The process for teaching new behaviors is similar. Here’s how you might show your child how to teach a new “down” behavior:

    1. Explain what cue you will be using (“Down!” – or…?), what you want the behavior to look like (dog is lying all the way down on the ground), and how you plan to help the dog understand what you want him to do (whether luring, capturing, or shaping…). Discuss “lure-shaping” – where you use a treat to get the dog to do small pieces of the behavior, encouraging him to lower his front end, marking and treating as you go, gradually getting closer and closer to the final behavior. For more about lure-shaping see “Fun Dog Training Techniques Using Shaping,” WDJ Feb 2006.)
    2. Demonstrate the process, starting with the dog sitting. Put the treat in front of his nose lower it a little bit, mark and treat as he follows it.
    3. Repeat, gradually lowering the treat closer to the ground with multiple repetitions. (For a step-by-step tutorial, see “How to Teach Your Dog to Lie Down on Cue.”) Depending on your dog’s level of cooperation and your child’s abilities, you may be able to have her take over after a few repetitions of the demonstration with you continuing to coach, or you may need to continue participating more fully in the process. That’s your judgment call.
    4. Now, expand your dog’s repertoire. Let your child help decide what new behaviors they want to help teach – and be sure to include tricks! Tricks are fun for all and are guaranteed to help strengthen the dog-child bond.

Also, be sure to show your young ones how to incorporate training into every day activities, using real-life rewards when appropriate. “Sit and I’ll throw the ball for you.” “Sit and we can play tug.” “Lie down and I’ll open the door for you to go out in the back yard.” “Sit and I’ll put your food bowl down.”

Supervise!

Children offer a puppy within a tug toy to chew and pull on.
If your kids find your puppy or dog to be too physically exuberant to feel comfortable playing or training, try using “protected contact” – having them interact while the dog is safely restrained by a baby gate, puppy pen, leash, or tether. Photo by Kathy Callahan

Young children should, of course, always be supervised when they are in the presence of the family dog. “Supervision” means not just being in the same room, it means also having eyes and mind on the dog-kid combination at all times. You constantly make sure the child is appropriate with the dog, and constantly watch and interpret the dog’s body language to make sure he is comfortable with the child. This iron rule is especially unbendable when the dog and child are actively engaged with each other – for example, if the child is playing with or training the dog. Not only do you want to be sure that the child is safe, you also want to be sure the dog is enjoying the interaction and the training is being successful.

While older children don’t need the constant close scrutiny that young children do, you still want to be sure the training is going well and being done correctly. Check in with the dog-kid combination on a regular basis to reassure yourself that your learners are enjoying themselves and that training progress is happening.

So – how old is “younger” and how old is “older”? It is suggested that children aged 6 and under require constant close supervision, ages 7 to 12 are more capable of being dog-appropriate with less supervision, and 13 and up are generally mature enough to be trusted with the dog. Of course, each child is an individual and you’ll need to make your own judgment calls for your own offspring, but I would urge you to err on the side of caution. It’s far better to over-supervise than under-supervise.

Protected Contact

You might consider using “protected contact” in your training program with your dog and young child. The concept of protected contact is widely used in zoos, where animal care attendants keep a safety barrier between themselves and dangerous animals who might injure them – or worse. You can do the same with a child who might be overwhelmed or inadvertently injured by an over-exuberant canine subject. You could have your child work with the dog on a tether, inside an exercise pen or the other side of a baby gate. It can also be helpful to make sure your dog is well exercised before engaging in a training session with a young child. Too much enthusiasm on the part of the canine learner can damage the dog-child relationship – which is the exact opposite of the goal we are trying to achieve.

You Might Be Surprised

Obviously, older children will tend to catch on more quickly and be able to participate more fully in your dog’s training than very young children. But don’t sell your little ones short – some young children can be surprisingly adept at learning and applying training skills. Our trainers are frequently impressed by how well some of their junior students do in their dog training classes – often better than the adults! Do remember to keep it fun – the goal is to strengthen the bond – and that’s most likely to happen if all species involved are enjoying themselves.

Five Best Dog Training Treat Pouches

By
Rachel Phelps, MBA, MPA, Dip.PDT
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A dog owner next to their dog wearing a treat pouch.
Wearing a treat pouch, or "bait bag" as many trainers call them, enables you to deliver training treats at any rate of reinforcement necessary to build and maintain the behaviors you want from your dog. Photo: Nancy Kerns

When it comes to dog training, positive reinforcement is key, and the most common reward is giving your dog a tasty treat. Unfortunately, holding them in your hand or your pocket can lead to a sticky, crumbly mess. The best solution is a dog-training pouch which hold your treats until you need them. It keeps your hands mess-free and treats within easy reach for when your dog masters a training cue. Whether you’re searching for durability, size, or convenience, we’ve got you covered.

 

Dog Training Treat Pouch Features to Look For

  • Easy-to-clean: Let’s face it, treats can get messy! It’s crucial to choose a pouch made of materials that can be wiped clean or even tossed in the washing machine. If your pouch is easy to clean, you’ll always be ready for your next training session without any leftover mess!
  • Easy treat access for you (but not for your dog): Look for a pouch that can be closed, to ensure that treats won’t accidentally spill out – and so your dog can’t reach inside and help himself. Some pouches have a zipper, magnetic closure, or drawstring, but the easiest to open and close quickly are those with a spring-loaded French hinge. While these hinges are the fastest and easiest to open and close, they also wear out over time and may lose their “quick snap” ability.
  • Size: You’ll want a dog training treat pouch that can hold a generous supply of treats for your pup. After all, you wouldn’t want to run out of rewards during a training session! Your dog will thank you!
  • Extra Features: Whether you prefer a fashionable waist belt, a convenient clip or hook that can fasten to your pants waist or pocket, or an adjustable shoulder strap, you can find a pouch that suits your style. Some pouches even come with extra features like built-in waste bag dispensers or compartments to hold your keys, phone, or other personal items.

Our Top Picks

Terry Ryan Treat Pouch: This is our long-time favorite treat pouch. It features one of those helpful French spring-loaded hinges, which keeps the pouch open until you close it with a quick tap. It comes with a detachable waist belt and a plastic clip so you can attach it to your pants waist or pocket. Its front pocket has no closure, but can hold an average-sized cell phone. The total size is 8.5 inches by 6.5 inches. This is one of the pricier pouches, so keep in mind that the hinge that makes the opening and closing so quick and easy won’t last forever. Available in black and purple. $17.

Petsafe Treat Pouch Sport: This product is similar in every way to the Terry Ryan Treat Pouch, complete with the French hinge, detachable waist belt, and plastic clip; it’s a tad larger, however, at 8 inches by eight inches. A divider in the main compartment keep treats separate and there is a front pocket for your phone and/or keys. Available in black/grey, red/gray, and blue/gray. $18.

 

Kurgo Go Stuff-It Dog Treat Bag: This dog treat bag features a wide drawstring opening for easy treat access while keeping them fresh (note that the drawstring pulls from the top, making it a tad harder to find, open, and close). Attach it with your own belt or a carabiner (included) clipped to a belt loop. Machine-washable, it includes a zippered side pocket for keys or other small items. Available in blue, red, and navy blue. $13.

 

 

Tuff Mutt Treat Pouch: Here’s another pouch that has a drawstring closure, only this one tightens and loosens from the side; it’s easier to find and operate this drawstring than the one on the Kurgo product. Its detachable strap can be used as a belt or over the shoulder, or the pouch can be attached to your belt or waistband with a plastic clip (provided). A small pocket holds a roll of poop bags, which can be dispensed through a handy opening. $17.

 

POPWARE Pooch Pouch Treat Holder: Made of 100% silicone, this flexible pouch has a slit on top;  treats are kept inside until you slide your hand through the opening. The Pooch Pouch attaches to your belt or waistband with a plastic clip for hands-free carry, is non-porous so it won’t absorb oils or odors, and is dishwasher-safe for easy cleaning. Available in gray and blue $12.

 

With this tail-wagging selection of treat pouches to choose from, you’re sure to find the perfect pouch that suits your needs.

Will a Hawk Attack a Dog?

By
Sandy Chebat
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Red-tailed Hawk searching for prey
Even large hawks (such as this red-tailed hawk) would have a difficult time carrying away any but the tiniest dogs, those less than two pounds. If you walk in open areas where even larger raptors (such as golden or bald eagles) are common, it would be wise to keep small dogs close to you and on a leash.

If you have a very small dog, you may be concerned about hawks and other birds of prey; could they swoop down and carry your tiny dog away? We consulted Hillary Hankey, a bird behavior expert and owner and founder of Avian Behavior International in Escondido, California, to learn more about hawk attacks on dogs and how to prevent them.

“Considering how prevalent hawks are across North America, hawk attacks on our pets are not common, and most of the claims we hear about are unsubstantiated, with only a few verified reports each year,” Hankey says.

Of the verified reports, most are from hawks defending their nests, not predating on dogs, she adds. Small rodents make up 80 to 90% of a hawk’s diet, and they are known to eat small rabbits, birds, lizards, snakes, insects, and crustaceans. Dogs, even small ones, are not typically on a hawk’s menu.

Now, a desperate juvenile hawk that is a poor or unexperienced hunter might resort to attacking a dog, Hankey says, but it’s more likely a hawk defending its nest from a dog that has come too close.

“In the latter case, the bird is not trying to eat the dog, just get them to move on,” she says.

But Could a Hawk or Eagle Carry My Dog Away?

When hawks attack prey, they swoop down and use their strong feet and talons to grab the creature and take it to their perch or nest to eat. So how much weight can a hawk carry?

Hawks generally cannot carry off more than their own bodyweight, Hankey says. Red-tailed hawks are one of the largest and most commonly seen hawks in the U.S., and they weigh only two to four pounds, she says, making it highly unlikely they can snatch up even small dog breeds and carry them away. Raptors such as bald eagles and golden eagles are larger, and can carry more weight, but attacks on dogs by these birds are extremely rare.

The best plan for defending your dog from an attack by any raptor is to keep your extremely small dog close to you, and preferably on a leash. “All birds of prey generally want to avoid people unless they are defending a nest and are disturbed,” Hankey says. That said, if you live in an area where eagles are common, you may want to take additional steps:

  • Fit your dog with a spike jacket, such as CoyoteVest for dogs, or a talon-proof dog vest, like Raptor Shield.
  • Install a large owl statue or scarecrow, or use reflective bird scare tape to keep hawks out of your yard.
  • Remove bird feeders to eliminate a hawk-attracting bird buffet in your yard.

Hankey adds, “Hawks and most other native birds are federally protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. It is illegal and unadvisable to disturb, haze, or harass them.”

Why Dogs Sneeze When They Play

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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0
copyspace in the grass area between two dogs resting on the grass
Dogs get so much joy out of play (and are delightfully exhausted afterward!). But what’s even more fascinating is watching the way dogs communicate while they play, including with sneezes! Photo by Marcoventuriniautieri, Getty Images

Dogs have an extensive repertoire of social cues and signals that they use to communicate with each other during play. One of those social cues is something that we usually associate with allergies or illness: the sneeze. Dogs sneeze when they play to communicate with other dogs.

The sneeze as a social cue is different from a physiologic sneeze. When a dog sneezes due to an irritation in her nose, the sneeze is often forceful and may include nasal discharge or jerking of her head. By comparison, a social sneeze is small and delicate with no nasal discharge and very little head movement.

A dog sneezing during play with another dog is telling the other dog to tone down the energy level a notch or two. It’s her way of saying, “I’m enjoying this playtime with you but you’re getting a little too rambunctious for me right now. Take a minute to chill out and then we can continue playing.”

Dogs will also use a sneeze as a social cue with their humans. A social sneeze directed at humans is used to get their attention. It is usually followed by barking or even pawing at or pointing their nose at something they want.

Dogs who sneeze a lot – regardless of context – may have an underlying medical issue that is causing them to sneeze. Anything that causes irritation of the nose or throat can cause repeated sneezing or even a reverse sneeze. This can include allergens, foreign material in the nose, an infection, or (rarely) a tumor in the nose or throat.

If you are not sure if your dog’s sneeze is a social cue or is being caused by a medical issue, take a video of your dog sneezing and share it with her veterinarian. They may reassure you that the sneeze is not a concern or may recommend that you make an appointment for an examination.

Social sneezes are part of the communication repertoire that make our canine companions unique. It’s amazing how eloquent our dogs can be without words!

Get your dog’s health records in order

By
Nancy Kerns
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4
A dog seeking attention from a veterinary technician during a routine procedure.
Woody seeks comfort from the veterinary technician who just gave him a vaccination. He's one of those dogs who shakes at the vet, but is also quick to climb into the technician's or vet's lap after his exam or procedures.

I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time and money in the past couple of months to get my dogs’ health records together – after being embarrassed to admit to a new veterinarian friend that my dogs were overdue for some routine veterinary attention. I feel much better knowing that they are now current – on vaccines, routine blood work, heartworm and tick-titer tests, and prescriptions for heartworm prevention.

So much of my time and attention (and dog-budget) went to taking care of my elderly dog Otto last year that the younger dogs got sadly neglected. And even though I advise everyone I know to note all of their dog’s vaccines, medication refills, and vet appointments on a calendar, I neglected to do this for Woody and Boone for over a year. Ack!

After a conversation about rabies vaccines with my son (whose dog was due for a rabies booster), I started wondering when Boone’s most recent rabies vaccine was – and realized that he was overdue for his first three-year rabies vaccine by about, oh, a year.  Worse: To even determine this fact, I went looking for the file folder where I kept all of Boone’s paperwork – and discovered I had never made one! All of his puppy-kindergarten diplomas and veterinary receipts and test results and even adoption papers were mixed in with all of the same sort of paperwork in either Otto’s or Woody’s folders. I have never even made him a file folder of his own!

Also, because I had about 10 months’ worth of extra monthly heartworm preventatives after Otto passed away, and because all my dogs’ weights were/are close enough, I hadn’t taken Woody or Boone in for their annual heartworm tests because I had extra prevention to give them; I hadn’t needed to make those appointments in order to have enough preventative on hand for almost half a year. Bad, bad dog, Nancy!

Well, if you’ve ever been going through the final illness, or the final, rough year of a beloved dog’s life, you know how easy it is to neglect the other, young, healthy dogs’ needs. I’m not defending myself, just explaining. I had a trying year with Otto, punctuated with a couple health emergencies with Boone, and the routine stuff just got shoved to the side.

In order to get everything caught up, I had to call three different veterinary clinics and request that all of Woody’s and Boone’s records be sent to my newest vet’s office. My dogs have both been seen and treated at the large emergency/specialty hospital about 30 minutes from my home, the closest clinic to my home (which is expensive and where it is difficult to get appointments within a month), and a much-less-expensive country clinic where it is also difficult to book appointments in a timely manner. Clinic #4, owned by my new vet friend, is going to be my new primary vet, so I’ve had hospitals 1 through 3 send their official records to her. I feel sorry for the veterinary receptionist who had to make sense of it all, but after going through all that paperwork, I finally have a full record for each dog in one place and don’t have to guess or dig to confirm the dates of anything.

I also put reminders on my digital calendar to make appointments for next year’s veterinary checkups. I’ve long used wall calendars to keep track of these things, but in my increasingly digital world, the Google calendar does a better job of reminding me of things than any paper calendar can do.

The last thing I have to do: I prepaid for fecal tests for both dogs, and need to collect a fecal sample from each dog and deliver them to my new vet for testing. The day after the dog’s last appointment, I duly collected a fecal sample from each dog’s morning deposit, and put them (triple zip-locked) in the refrigerator so I could deliver them to the clinic later in the day – but got busy and failed to drive to the clinic until what the receptionist said was too late for an accurate test (the samples should be refrigerated if there is going to be a delay, but should still arrive to the vet’s office within 4 to 6 hours). D’oh! I need to choose a day soon where I will collect samples of the dogs’ poop and drive it right to the vet, and then we’ll be completely on track for 2024.

Indoor Dog Potty

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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A dog lying on a mat of grass indoors.
DoggieLawn uses real grass, hydroponically grown (without soil), contained in a plastic tray. The ability to eliminate on grass indoors helps many dogs who are otherwise reluctant to eliminate on paper pads or litterbox material.

While most of us spend a lot of time convincing our dogs to eliminate outside, there are legitimate reasons why some dog lovers need their dogs to potty indoors. We looked at “dog indoor potty” products to help you determine which you might want to choose from if you are in the “indoor bathroom” club.

A Look At Indoor Potty Products

Indoor dog bathrooms come in a variety of styles including: real grass, artificial grass, pee pads, other absorbent materials, and plastic units. Our preference is for boxes that use some type of natural substrate, but here are some examples of each:

 

Sidebar: Why Use an Indoor dog Potty?

There are some very legitimate reasons why you might want your dog eliminate indoors instead of outside:

  • Medical issues for dog or human that prevent regular trips outside.
  • Behavioral issues (fear) inhibit her from eliminating outdoors around scary sights and sounds.
  • Inclement weather.
  • Your dog must routinely be left home alone longer than she can reasonably be expected to “hold it.”
  • You live on the 25th floor of a high-rise apartment and she can’t “hold it” that far.
  • You have a puppy who needs to go more often than you can take her out.
  • Doggie Lawn: At the top of our list because it uses real grass (grass sits in a plastic tray), reducing confusion for dogs who are expected to eliminate outdoors as well as indoors. It comes in multiple sizes, from Standard (24 x 15.5 inches) to XL (24 x 48 inches) to accommodate a variety of different-sized dogs. Price ranges from $34 to $103 depending on size; you also order a subscription for their “soil-less” hydroponically grown grass for easy, compostable cleanup and replacement. Downsides: Real grass requires more maintenance than artificial, and isn’t good for dogs who have grass allergies.
The Petmaker Artificial Grass Puppy Pad has four layers: The artificial grass attracts the dog and the quilted pad absorbs odors; the drainage insert allows extra urine to drain through into the final layer, the collection tray.
  • Bark Potty: Shredded and absorbent tree bark in a cardboard frame with an inner plastic tray. We like this one because it’s a natural material your dog can find outside for bathroom purposes. Netting over the surface prevents your dog from scattering the bark. Available in two sizes: Standard (16 x 20; $37) and Large (20 x 31; $58). Downsides: Some dogs may chew the box and the bark. Also although marketed to last a month, urine smell may become noticeable after three weeks.
  • Petmaker Artificial Grass Puppy Pad: A four-layer unit consisting of an artificial grass mat, which sits atop an odor-resistant cloth mat, which covers a plastic drainage insert, which sits inside a durable plastic collection tray. Three sizes, from Small (16 x 20) to Large (20 x 30) from $25 to $45. Downside: Grass pads may wear out quickly.
  • Doggy Bathroom Dog Litter Box: A plastic box with tall sides! Ideal for dogs who lift their legs to pee; absorbent pee pads attach to the sides of the box. Recommended for small dogs (up to 20 inches) – comes in two sizes: Mini ($189) and Regular ($209). Downsides: Cost and size limitation.
  • BrilliantPad Original Indoor Dog Potty: The dog steps onto a low platform that has absorbent material stretched across it; the material is contained in rolls that are encased in plastic tubes on either side of the platform. After the dog eliminates on the pad, you can advance the pad to expose a clean section; the soiled section is contained until the entire roll (which contains 21 full pad advances) is soiled and discarded. A high-tech version (BrilliantPad Smart) allows you to advance the pad using an app on your phone. Downsides: Expensive ($230 – $250, plus rolls for $50 each) – and only for dogs 25 pounds or less. Motion activation could be aversive to some dogs.
A big Leonberger puppy is epic failing at potty training and doing a poo on the floor.
This is a common problem with using pads on the floor; without a defined area or container for the pad, many dogs and pups who understand the concept of using the pad miss the target. A product that offers a distinct change of surface under their paws (such as artificial grass) or that holds a pad in a tray or box will help the dog’s “aim.” Photo by lolostock, Getty Images

Disposable Pee Pads: Lots of brands to choose from, so it can come down to personal preference; you may want to do a deeper dive into your own research and testing. Two we found that look promising are:

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

 

  • Bulldogology Carbon Tech – Top rated from numerous sources and reported to be super-absorbent. These pads don’t easily wrinkle, flip, or move. The 24- x 24-inch pads have six layers, including an odor neutralizer (carbon); layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and a waterproof liner to prevent leaks. $57 for 100 pads.
  • Kirkland Extra-Large Absorbent Pads – Costco sells these affordable, extra size for larger dogs (23 x 30 inches), with four layers including absorbent cloth, layer of tissue, absorbent gel polymer, and plastic liner to prevent leaks. $21 for 100 pads.

Washable/Reusable Pee Pads: Again, there are multiple brands to choose from; here are two that are highly rated:

  • Green Lifestyle Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These thick and highly absorbent, eco-friendly, machine washable pads have reinforced seams that last for many washes. A waterproof backing prevents leakage. They come in two sizes – 30 x 34 inches and 34 x 36 inches and in a pack of four or six. $29 to $44 at Chewy.com.
  • Max and Neo Washable Reusable Dog Pee Pads – These pads are quick-drying but extra-thick (four layers, with an inner layer that locks in liquid), and an inviting, quilted top layer. They come in one size (30 x 36 inches). $20 for two.

How to teach a dog to use an indoor potty

 

Some dogs catch onto indoor potty use very quickly, others take more effort, especially if they’ve been scrupulous about their housetraining habits in the past. Here are some tips:

  • Place your dog’s bathroom in a quiet location that is easily accessible for her, on an easy-to-clean surface with good ventilation to minimize odor.
  • Introduce your dog to the potty; show her where the indoor dog potty is and encourage her to check it out on her own so she can get comfortable with it. Do not put treats on it to get her to walk on it; dogs tend not to eliminate where they get food!
  • Collect a urine and stool sample to place on the potty surface to give her the idea.
  • Use positive reinforcement. When she uses the indoor dog potty, mark, praise, and give her a treat (away from the potty!). This associates using the potty with good things, making her more likely to use it in the future.
  • As with any housetraining, consistency is vital. Take your dog to the indoor dog potty regularly, especially after meals, naps, and playtime.
  • Give your dog time. Remember, it may take time for her to learn to use the indoor potty. Don’t get discouraged if your dog has accidents at first. Stick to your routine and reinforce good behavior. If you’re struggling, try taking your indoor potty outdoors to your dog’s normal bathroom spot, get her to use it there several times, then take it back indoors. Be patient!
  • Teach a bathroom cue. Use a specific cue (such as “Potty!” or “Go pee!”) when taking your dog to the indoor dog potty. If you already use one for outdoor elimination, use the same one indoors.
  • Be sure to clean up any accidents thoroughly and use an odor neutralizer on any elimination “mistakes,” to help clarify where your dog should and should not be eliminating.
  • And one final tip for dogs who lift their leg to pee: Put a sturdy, absorbent-covered or washable post in the middle of the pad or box. If you can, collect a little of your dog’s or another dog’s urine (even a few drops!) and drip or spray the post with it; this will help show your dog where to lift a leg!

Best Carpet Shampooers and Upholstery Cleaners for Pets

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Puppy at home urinating on a carpet.
Whether it’s due to a one-time puppy accident or a chronic issue with an aging and leaky dog, every pet owner can benefit from a carpet-cleaning machine. Photo by Vesnaandjic, Getty Images

Vacuum cleaners suck up dust, dirt, and dog hair from carpets and hard floors, but when you need a deeper cleaning, carpet cleaners (also called rug shampooers) combine suction power with cleaning sprays, rotating brushes, and rinse water to remove stains, odors, and stubborn grime.

For an overview of popular models, we checked with Consumer Reports, Good Housekeeping, Better Homes and Gardens, and The New York Times Wirecutter. These organizations tested dozens of large and small carpet cleaners for pets and reported their results during the past six months.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

Full-sized or upright cleaners

Full-sized carpet cleaners are larger and heavier than vacuum cleaners because of their water tanks, which supply cleaning solutions mixed with water during treatment, and store sucked-up dirty water after cleaning. Accessories include hoses, pretreatment options, and hand-held tools. The machines’ size and weight are important considerations, and so are their price tags, which range from $100 to $500 or more. Full-sized pet-cleaning rug shampooers are a good match to physically active dog owners who vacuum often and expect to use a shampooer at least twice a year.

The laboratory tests mentioned here involved large swatches of white or off-white carpet and colorful stains like dirt, red wine, red clay, yellow ammonia (to simulate pet urine), actual urine, ice cream, chocolate, nut butters, Coke, blue Gatorade, caramel syrup, orange soda, coffee, ketchup, orange juice, tea, mustard, soy sauce, chili oil, and egg yolks. The tested machines were rated according to their stain-removing efficiency, convenience, ease of use, and noise level.  All of the models listed here are suitable for use on carpets, area rugs, and upholstery.

BISSELL JETSCRUB PET CARPET CLEANER ($260)

This machine is the top pick of Better Homes and Gardens because of its effectiveness (cleaning quickly and thoroughly) and ease of use. “Our testers used the deep clean option when tackling various stains – chocolate, wine, dirt, and coffee – and noted it only took three wet and dry passes to get each stain off of the carpet.” This model has a “clean shot” pre-treater, retractable handle, compact size, and simple assembly. It weighs 12.34 pounds and holds 60 ounces (almost 2 quarts) of water.

HOOVER POWERDASH PET ADVANCED FH55050 ($140)

Consumer Reports lists this machine as its top model. “It cleans just 5 to 7 square feet of carpet per tank of solution,” says its report, “but the 8-foot hose gives you lots of room to work without constantly moving the machine.” It weighs 16.25 pounds and holds 2 quarts (1/2 gallon) of water. Should the FH55000 model be out of stock, Consumer Reports recommends HOOVER POWERDASH PET FH50700 ($120), which has similar features.

Consumer Reports rates the BISSELL PROHEAT 2X LIFT-OFF PET 15651 ($309) as its second favorite full-sized carpet cleaner because it covers 15 square feet on a tank of solution, which is twice what some other top-rated machines can do. This model weighs 24.25 pounds and holds almost 3 quarts of water.

HOOVER SMARTWASH PET AUTOMATIC CARPET CLEANER ($249). The Good Housekeeping Institute rated this as their favorite overall carpet cleaner for pets. In addition to conducting in-lab testing, one tester used this model to clean old pet stains at home and found that it worked better than models previously tried. It cleans on forward passes and dries on back passes. An onboard wand of oxy stain solution zaps pet messes and Heatforce technology speeds carpet drying. This model weighs 18.9 pounds and holds 1 gallon of water.

TINECO CARPET ONE SMART CARPET CLEANER ($499) is the New York Times Wirecutter’s top choice. “This model operated more smoothly, tackled common household stains better, and left the carpet drier than all of tis competitors,” says its report. “We compared how our test models tackled common household stains, including dirt, urine, wine, soda, and ice cream.” The testers called the Tineco easy to operate, comfortable to maneuver, and considerably quieter than most machines. Helpful voice prompts warn of technical errors and remind you to refill or empty the tanks. An LED display shows cleaning progress and the carpet’s dryness level.  This model weighs 16.5 pounds and holds 1 gallon of water.

Portable Carpet Cleaners

Full-sized, upright rug shampooers are the workhorses of home carpet cleaning, but when the pet mess is small, a portable carpet cleaner may be all you need. These cleaners are easier to use than full-sized machines, and with appropriate attachments, can be used on carpets, area rugs, upholstery, mattresses, pet beds, and car interiors.

BISSELL LITTLE GREEN PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($120) and BISSELL LITTLE GREEN PROHEAT PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($138) earned Consumer Reports’ highest ratings. “There were few differences between the two machines,” says the CR report, “beyond the fact that the Bissell ProHeat has a stair-cleaning tool and looks a little more modern. Both are as noisy as a standard vacuum but the ProHeat is a smidge quieter.” Each weighs just under 10 pounds and holds 1-1/2 quarts of water. To use either model, spray a mixture of hot water and cleaning solution from an onboard tank onto the fabric surface, apply it for the recommended amount of time, and then vacuum it up.

Good Housekeeping rates the BISSELL SPOTCLEAN PET PRO PORTABLE CARPET CLEANER ($175) as the best portable carpet cleaner for pets, noting its special container system for pet messes, 3-quart water tank, and effective urine-eliminator cleaning solution. It weighs 13 pounds.

RUG DOCTOR’S PET PORTABLE SPOT CLEANER ($152) is Better Homes and Garden’s favorite portable carpet and upholstery cleaner because of its maneuverability (it rolls like a wheeled suitcase) and effectiveness when combined with 5-minute pretreatments. It weighs 19 pounds. The water tank, which holds 2 quarts (1/2 gallon) can be tricky to fill by yourself but easy with a helper.

Things to consider before purchasing

All of the carpet cleaners mentioned here are described in detail at their manufacturers’ and retailers’ websites, so look online for descriptions of tools, accessories, cord lengths, hose lengths, convenience, cleaning solutions, and noise levels measured in decibels. (For comparison, 80 decibels is the average noise level for carpet cleaning machines.) Someone living in a one-story home may not need a long hose or long electrical cord while someone with carpeted stairs or large carpeted rooms may need both. Large-capacity water tanks are handy, but 1 gallon of water adds 8 pounds to the machine weights listed here. Pet carpet cleaner websites feature demonstration videos, customer ratings, and comments.

Finding a machine that fits well with you and your pets is worth the time and effort involved. With the help of a good carpet cleaner, any pet mess that comes your way will be a manageable and temporary inconvenience.

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