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One Answer to Cancer

6

It’s funny how special dogs come into one’s life. A friend had found Diamond at a dog show. Only seven months old, she’d been returned to a breeder because of her dysplastic hips. The breeder planned to have her euthanized. With her big radar ears and eyes wise beyond her young age, she loved everything and everyone, especially young children. My friend offered to have her spayed and find her a good home in exchange for a reprieve, and in October 1993, she became my dog.

One of the first things I did was to make an appointment with a holistic veterinarian, Dr. Anne Rice of Williamstown, Michigan. I had hoped that Dr. Rice might have some new or different advice for dealing with Diamond’s hips. This dog should have no more vaccinations, she advised. And a natural diet would be best for her.”

I’ve always taken good care of the animals entrusted to my care, but this advice did not work for me. Diamond received traditional care for her dysplastic hips, starting with one hip replacement surgery in 1995, and another in 1996. I was busy and bags of food were easy, so Diamond ate commercial pet food. I faithfully took her to a conventionally trained veterinarian for her annual vaccinations and the hip surgeries, and casually popped the heart worm prevention pills with chemical flea and parasite controls into her system, because that’s the way I had always done it.

But my care did not result in a problem-free dog! Diamond had numerous ear infections, constant problems with parasites, and teeth that always seemed to need cleaning, despite the promises of the special dental-plaque removal food.

One step forward, two steps back
It wasn’t until the winter of 1998, when I came across a book called Give Your Dog A Bone by Dr. Ian Billinghurst, that something finally clicked in my mind. A natural diet to boost the immune system? To eliminate the nagging problems that had plagued Diamond for so long? I liked the sound of that! In no time at all, I had a 30-pound box of frozen turkey necks in my freezer!

In very short order, things started improving for Diamond. Her ears cleared up. The thick, brown plaque wore off her teeth until they gleamed white. Her parasite problem vanished. I felt we were finally on the right track.

However, my vision of holistic health care was not very complete. Although I was feeding her a natural diet, I was not quite ready to abandon or alter her traditional veterinary care. So when I received a notice that Diamond was due to receive her annual vaccinations, I took her right in. In March 1999, just a few weeks after receiving those booster shots, Diamond became extremely arthritic. When she walked, she actually sounded like a creaky skeleton. I did add some chondroitin and glucosamine supplements to her diet, without much discernible improvement.

In August, one of her knee ligaments blew when she was playing with another dog, and had to be rebuilt surgically. The veterinary surgeon’s parting words were, “By the way, if that lump on her front leg changes AT ALL, get her in and have it taken off. It feels harmless, but keep an eye on it.”

I had noticed the lump before, but I hadn’t made much of it, since it didn’t seem to bother Diamond at all. I assumed she had bumped her leg while hunting groundhogs behind our barn, her favorite pastime.

Diamond’s overall health had me more worried. She looked much older than her six years. The supplements of chondroitin and glucosamine weren’t helping her arthritis much.

Eventually, as I fretted over my dear dog’s slow deterioration, I remembered Dr. Rice’s advice concerning vaccinations. Diamond’s arthritis had really kicked in right after the last round of vaccinations she had been given in March. Could there be a connection? I headed for the phone, wondering what Dr. Rice would have to say.

Holistic consultation
Thankfully, Dr. Rice was patient and understanding. She seemed to understand that it takes people time to absorb the holistic paradigm. This time, I listened much more attentively to what she had to say. After all, everything she had said to me years before had proven to be true. She talked to me about ways to eliminate the toxins I had been pumping into Diamond’s system. She explained the benefits of fasting, which frees up the digestive system to break down the toxins stored in the liver and other tissues. She reiterated her opinion that annual vaccinations were not necessary, especially for a six-year-old dog in poor health.

Since traditional care had not seemed to prevent a multitude of problems from afflicting Diamond, I was determined to follow all of Dr. Rice’s advice. I discontinued use of the chemical flea preventatives and began giving Diamond a flower essence product called Flea Free, which is given, a few drops a day, in the dog’s water. However, I also understood that purifying Diamond’s system might be a long-term project.

A new crisis
Around this time, I noticed that the lump on Diamond’s leg getting bigger. I brought Diamond to my traditional veterinarian, who removed the lump, and called me with the results a week later, on January 24, 2000. I knew we were in trouble when she said, “I’m SO sorry this happened to your dog.” The official diagnosis: hemangiopericytoma.

“What are my options?” I asked.

She kindly explained to me that it is impossible to completely remove this type of soft-tissue tumor surgically because they always recur, each time more aggressive than before. This usually lead to further surgeries and eventually amputation.

Dogs do surprisingly well on three legs, she offered. Radiation is also a possibility. These tumors have a low rate of metastasis. We could schedule an appointment for you at the University. Michigan State University Small Animal clinic is only 20 miles from my home.

I promised to think it over, but I knew the answer before I hung up the phone. There would be no more surgeries for Diamond. She’d been through enough already in her short life. Somewhat blindly, I made a trip to my local health food store and inquired about supplements to fight cancer. I came home with quite an assortment of products. I bought something that promised it was the ultimate antioxidant, and powerful herbal remedies that suggested they were what every body needs. I knew this was crazy, but I felt like I had to do something.

Diamond had a different idea. The dog who had always been willing to take anything suddenly had no use for my assortment of powders and pills. Just three weeks after having the tumor removed, the lump on Diamond’s leg was already as big as it was before the surgery.

Dr. Rice came out for a re-check. “What can I do?” I asked her. “I have a pile of supplements that she won’t touch.”

“This dog has come to teach you,” she said. “You have to listen to what her body tells you. The body knows what it needs.”

Her words constantly played through my head. The more I thought about it, the more I became convinced that Diamond could heal herself if she were given what she needed to work with. But what was the key?

Cancer treatment alternatives
I spent hours every night looking up information about canine cancer on the Internet. I found lots of information about the type of cancer that she had, and the typical treatment protocol was always the same: surgeries and radiation.

Then I swerved off in a new direction. I began looking for alternative treatments for humans with the same type of cancer. I found a website devoted to information about a German scientist and biochemist, Dr. Johanna Budwig, who had conducted extensive research on the healing properties of flaxseed oil combined with sulphurated proteins. She had had some success with curing cancer patients by giving them simple, natural foods with no chemicals or preservatives, as well as a supplement of flaxseed blended with low-fat cottage cheese.

About this same time, a friend suggested that I look up a website called Shirley’s Wellness Cafe. There I found lots of information about complementary and alternative pet care, including many testimonials from owners who were treating their animals various problems with a combination of … flaxseed oil and cottage cheese! Everyone seemed to be feeding 1/4 cup of cottage cheese plus one tablespoon of flaxseed oil three times daily.

Maybe this is it, I thought. On February 4, I started supplementing Diamond’s diet with the flaxseed/cheese mix, and I never looked back. Because she is less active than most dogs, I give her 1/4 cup low fat (1 percent) cottage cheese with 1 1/2 tablespoons of Barlean’s organic flaxseed oil two times a day (Barlean’s is the oil that Dr. Budwig recommends in the U.S.). I whip it until the oil is completely mixed into the cheese. When I place it in front of Diamond, she licks the dish clean and looks around for more.

The only vitamins I give her are a single 500-mg. Ester C (with bioflavonoids) gel cap, and one 400-iu vitamin E with selenium, both opened and mixed with her food daily. Several times a week, I give her a small amount of juiced vegetables, and I add a Vegyzme capsule to this, to help her digest the vegetables.

One day a week is fast day. On that day she gets none of her usual food, except for the oil/cheese mix and fresh water.

The fact that she’s still here with us already tells you that this protocol has worked. But how it worked still amazes me.

The tumor area on her leg continued to grow for the first three weeks after I began feeding Diamond the oil/cheese mix. I must have checked the puffy, lumpy area a hundred times a day. “This is going to work,” I told my husband.

“Don’t get your hopes up,” he cautioned. It was too late for that! I watched Diamond carefully during this time, and listened hard. Her arthritis was improving. She had more energy. Everything but her leg looked good.

On the morning of February 28, an amazing thing happened. The tumor definitely appeared smaller! And from that point on, it continued to shrink. By May 1, her leg looked completely normal. The last time my traditional veterinarian saw Diamond, she said, “I can’t even tell which leg it was!” She’s still kind of scratching her head over this case.

Today, Diamond is out back in the tall grass behind the barn, searching for groundhogs. Her arthritis is greatly improved, a plus from the flaxseed oil/cottage cheese mix that will always be a part of her diet, as will regular fasting.

The last time Dr. Rice saw her, she said, “Diamond looks great!” You can’t argue with success. I felt good about that, but it never would have happened if she hadn’t taught me the value of listening, searching for answers. Our animals bodies truly do know what they need. It’s up to us, as caretakers, to try and provide it.

-By Barb Hamlin

Crate Training Made Easy

[Updated October 3, 2017]

Some twenty years ago I got a new puppy. Keli was an Australian Kelpie, acquired by the Marin Humane Society to be my Canine Field Agent, partner and assistant in my daily duties as an Animal Services Officer. Being selected for this program was a huge honor and responsibility. I was determined to do everything right in caring for and training my pup.

I had heard about a new technique in puppy-raising, called crate-training, where you put your dog in a small kennel at night, and whenever you had to leave him alone. I was skeptical. Put a puppy in a cage? It sounded cruel! Still, determined to provide cutting-edge care for my pup in this cutting-edge program, I decided to try it. After all, the puppy would be with me most of the time in the animal services truck, so we were really only talking about nighttime crating. Unconvinced but determined to try, prior to bringing the pup home I purchased a crate and set it up in my bedroom.

When I brought the 10-week-old pup home, I braced myself for the two most trying challenges of puppy-raising: house training and chewing. I was about to be pleasantly surprised. The first night in her crate, Keli cried for a few minutes – typical behavior on the first night away from her mother and littermates. But then she curled up and went to sleep.

At 2 a.m. she woke me with insistent crying. She was telling me she needed to go out – WOW! I got up, took her out to pee, then returned her to the crate and went back to bed. After another perfunctory period of protest she went back to sleep. When I woke up the next morning her crate was clean, I didn’t have to worry about stepping in – or cleaning up – puppy piles or puddles, and thanks to the boundaries of the crate, there were no chewed up shoes or electrical cords. My skepticism started to fade.

Two nights later it vanished completely when I went to put Keli in her crate and found Caper, my three-year-old Bull Terrier mix, already curled up on the soft pad in Keli’s airline kennel. Caper looked up at me and thumped her tail several times, clearly saying, “These are cool! Can I have one of my own?” I went out the following day and bought Caper her own crate, and I’ve been a crate convert ever since.

The Dog Crate as a Home Within a Home

The crate is a sturdy plastic, fiberglass, wood, metal or wire box just big enough for a dog to stand up, turn around and lie down in comfortably. It can be used with the door open, at your convenience, or with the door closed, when mandatory confinement is called for.

When the crate is properly introduced using positive training methods, most dogs love their crates. Canines are den animals and a crate is a modern den – a dog’s personal portable bedroom that he can retire to when he wants to escape from the trials and tribulations of toddlers and other torments. He can take it with him when he stays at boarding kennels, and when he travels with you and sleeps in hotels and motels.

Owners love crates because they generally make house training a breeze and prevent damage to the house, furnishings, and personal possessions. They can give a new puppy-owner peace of mind when Baby Buddy has to be left home alone. They can be used for a positive time-out when visitors tire of Buddy’s antics, or when he insists on begging at the dinner table.

The crate is also a great tool for convincing owners of backyard dogs to bring their hounds into their homes (where they belong). By bringing the dog indoors but keeping him confined, at least at night, hesitant owners can ease their fears about mayhem and ruined rugs while at least partially integrating the deprived dog into the family.

The Crate is NOT a Punishment

A crate is not a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don’t yell at him, throw him in the crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down.

Nor is a crate appropriate for long-term confinement. While some puppies are able to make it through an eight-hour stretch in a crate at night, you should be sleeping nearby and available to take your pup out if he tells you he needs to go.

During the day, a puppy should not be asked to stay in a crate longer than two to four hours at a time; an adult dog no more than six to eight hours. Longer than that and you risk forcing Buddy to eliminate in his crate, which is a very bad thing, since it breaks down his instinctive inhibitions against soiling his den. Dogs who learn to soil their dens can be extremely difficult, sometimes nearly impossible, to house train – a common behavior problem for puppies from unclean puppy mills.

Training Your Dog to Get into a Crate

Most puppies, even the majority of adult dogs, can be crate-trained with relative ease. Remember that the crate should be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. He doesn’t need to be able to play football in it. If you want to get one large enough for your puppy to grow into, block off the back so he has just enough room, and increase the space as he grows. Cover the floor of the crate with a rug or soft pad to make it comfortable and inviting, and you’re ready to begin training.

Start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click! the clicker (or say “Yes!” if you are using a verbal marker).

Gradually toss the treats farther and farther into the crate until he steps inside to get them. Continue to Click! each time he eats a treat. When he enters the crate easily to get the treats, Click! and offer him a treat while he is still inside. If he is willing to stay inside, keep clicking and treating. If he comes out that’s okay too, just toss another treat inside and wait for him to re-enter. Don’t try to force him to stay in the crate.

When he enters the crate to get the treat without hesitation, you can start using a verbal cue such as “Go to bed” as he goes in, so that you will eventually be able to send him into his crate on just a verbal cue.

When he happily stays in the crate in anticipation of a Click! and treat, gently swing the door closed. Don’t latch it! Click! and treat, then open the door. Repeat this step, gradually increasing the length of time the door stays closed before you Click! Sometimes you can Click! and reward without opening the door right away.

When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click!, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate. Don’t always make it longer and farther – intersperse long ones with shorter ones, so it doesn’t always get harder and harder for him. Start increasing the number of times you Click! and treat without opening the door, but remember that a Click! or a “Yes!” always gets a treat.

It’s a good idea to leave the crate open when you aren’t actively training. Toss treats and his favorite toys in the crate when he’s not looking, so he never knows what wonderful surprises he might find there. You can even feed him his meals in the crate – with the door open – to help him realize that his crate is a truly wonderful place.

If at any time during the program your dog whines or fusses about being in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops crying! This is the biggest mistake owners make when crate training! If you let Buddy out when he is fussing, you will teach him that fussing gets him free.

Crate Training

If, however, he panics to the point of risking injury to himself, you must let him out. You may have a dog with a separation anxiety challenge. A crate is generally not recommended for dogs with separation anxiety, since they tend to panic in close confinement. If you believe your dog has a separation anxiety problem, stop the crate training and consult a behaviorist or a trainer who has experience with this behavior.

Instead of letting your dog out whenever he fusses or whines, wait for a few seconds of quiet, then Click! and reward. Then back up a step or two in the training program until he is again successful at the task you’ve set out for him. When your dog is doing well at that level again, increase the difficulty in smaller increments, and vary the amount of time, rather than making it progressively longer. For example, instead of going from 5 seconds to 10 to 15, start with 5 seconds, then 7, then 3, then 8, and so on.

Maintaining Dog Crate Reliability

Sometimes dogs and often puppies can do the whole crate training program in one day. Some will take several days, and a few will take weeks or more. Once your dog is crate trained, you have a valuable behavior management tool for life. Respect it. If you abuse it by keeping Buddy confined too much, for too long a period of time, or by using it as punishment, he may learn to dislike it. Even though he goes to bed willingly and on cue, reward him often enough to keep the response happy and quick. Keep your verbal “Go To Bed” cue light and happy. Don’t ever let anyone tease or punish him in his crate. (Kids can be especially obnoxious about this. Watch them!)

All of my dogs quickly learn the “Go to bed” routine. I don’t even have to use the verbal cue; usually, when I emerge from brushing my teeth, they are already curled up in their crates for the night.

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer in Chattanooga, Tennessee. 

Portable Dog Crates are Invaluable Travelling Tools

The crate has long been proven to be an invaluable in-home dog behavior management tool. It is also extremely useful on the road. For a long time, the only downside of crates has been that they are big, heavy, and awkward to lug around. A crate big enough for a Labrador Retriever, Rottweiler or (imagine) Great Dane won’t even fit in most cars – which is one reason why a lot of big-dog owners drive vans and SUVs!

Take heart, compact car owners, and any of the rest of you who are tired of struggling with unwieldy plastic crates: the era of portable crates has arrived! There now are a number of brands of lightweight cloth-and-mesh crates to select from — crates that fold up into tidy packages that you can carry with your little finger and stash in your trunk or behind a seat. WDJ reviewed portable crates a couple of years ago, but there are some newcomers on the market and some innovations to the old-timers, so we thought we’d check them out again.

As much as we love portable crates, we need to start with this caveat: Portable crates are not for any dog who is unaccustomed to being crated. Of necessity, the materials that portable crates are constructed from are less sturdy than those of regular crates – which is why they are light and collapsible. They simply won’t withstand the teeth and claws of a dog determined to escape his crate. Use portable crates only with dogs who readily and comfortably accept crate confinement.

We evaluated three brands of portable crates using the following five criteria: Sturdiness, ease of setup, portability, cost, and aesthetics. Of course, we don’t expect them to be as sturdy as a standard crate, but they do need to stand up to the rigors of traveling. Ease of set-up is important, as we are often in a rush to get our act together when we arrive at a show grounds, or cranky and short-tempered after driving all day.

Of course, portable crates should be easy to move and carry, both assembled and collapsed. Cost is always a factor in our product review process, though we are always willing to pay a reasonable amount more for good quality, if necessary. Aesthetics are important for portable crates, especially since they are big, visible, and often end up sitting in the middle of our living space. If we have to look at it constantly, we’d like it to be attractive!

By the way, our test dogs did not discriminate – they voluntarily entered and slept in each of the three crates we tested with equal frequency.

WDJ’s Top Pick: Cabana Crate
Made by Doggone Good!, San Jose, CA; (800) 660-2665; www.doggonegood.com

The Cabana Crate was our top pick two years ago, and it’s our top pick again. This well-made rectangular crate has an attractive Cordura floor and trim, with nylon mesh sides. The Cordura is available in your choice of four vibrant colors and the mesh can be ordered in one of three colors. It is the fastest and easiest of the three crates to set up and take down, and has a nylon handle for easy carrying, or D-rings for an over-the-shoulder strap. (The D-rings also double as attachment points for clip-on accessories, mentioned below.)

The biggest design change since our previous review is the incorporation of spring-loaded brace poles, which make set-up a breeze. Simply unfold the two ends of the crate, and insert the two brace poles through the open crate door into the holes provided for that purpose. It takes less than a minute, with virtually no effort. A child or senior citizen could set this crate up with ease.

The Cabana frame is lightweight aluminum – sturdy and light; easy to carry either set up or collapsed. Although it is more expensive than our “Not Recommended” crate, it is comparable in price to its closest competitor, the Cool-Crate” that we have listed in the “WDJ Approves” category, and it is more attractive and far easier to set up.

The Cabana comes in five sizes, from Small (24x18x19, 5 pounds, $119) to Extra Large (42x30x33, 10 pounds, $199). Doggone Good also sells a wide variety of accessories, many of which are so clever and well-made that you may have a difficult time deciding which ones you can live without. These include a fleece crate mat with rubber backing ($9-23, depending on size), a carrying bag that can hold one or two crates ($45-58), a zippered mesh storage bag that clips onto the outside of the crate to hold treats, toys, or grooming supplies ($13.50), and clip-on vinyl food/water cups ($5).

In our book there is simply no contest – we pick the Cabana Crate every time.

WDJ Approves: Cool Crate
Made by Best In Show, Jupiter, FL; (800)DOG-EATS; www.bestinshowpowerfood.com

The Cool Crate has a number of excellent features that put it a close second to the Cabana. It is an aesthetically pleasing arched-shaped crate with very sturdy stainless steel wire supports. The arch-shaped ribs are sewn into the fabric; the straight ribs that stretch the crate lengthwise are inserted into slender pockets, kind of like tent poles.

The crate fabric is PVC coated polyester yarn, advertised as flame resistant and good for blocking UV rays of the sun. (Don’t take this to mean you should set your crate up in full sun – your dogs can easily still get too hot!) While the cloth shouldn’t be expected to hold up to the abuse of a dog who scratches or paws (this dog should be in a solid crate under supervision), we will note that this fabric is stronger and thicker than the mesh of the other two crates we tested.

Our only real complaint with the Cool Crate is that it is a serious challenge to assemble. The straight steel supports were unbelievably difficult to insert in the sleeves provided for that purpose the first few times, so much so that we kept thinking we were trying to put them into the wrong places. Although these tight little sleeves have stretched out a bit and are somewhat easier to deal with each use, this crate is still far more difficult to set up than the Cabana.

Other than that, the Cool Crate is solid, sturdy, attractive, easy to move either assembled or collapsed. The Cool Crate is available in a wider range of sizes than the Cabana – a total of 10 sizes, from Mini (20x16x16, 2 pounds, $90) to Super Giant (54x32x40; 11 pounds, $280). We do consider this crate to be a reasonable choice, especially if you have a dog who is too large for the largest-sized Cabana.

Not Recommended: Canine Collapsible Crates
Made by Timbercreek Acres, Cincinnati, OH; (513) 648-0055; www.timbercreekacres.com

This is one of those cases where we would willingly pay more for the better quality product. While this crate is by far the least expensive of the crates we tested, ranging in price from $50 for the Small (12x13x20, 2.5 pounds) to $135 for the Large (30x26x40, 8 pounds), in our opinion, it’s far flimsier than the other crates we tested.

The frame is made of several pieces of PVC pipe and various elbows, T’s and bars. It is by far the most complicated of the three crates to construct, and when completed, it is not terribly stable.

With only one top brace and movable elbows and T’s, we found it difficult to move when assembled – the brace slides and the elbows twist. The instructions suggest gluing the frame together, which then, of course, reduces its collapsibility. If you leave the top pole unglued, according to the instructions, the crate will still supposedly collapse, but not, it seems, to the degree the others do.

The mesh material (available in three colors) fits very loosely on the frame.

-By Pat Miller

Finding The Best Dog Foods on The Market

The food we looked at this month is quite close to qualifying for our “Top Foods” list. It’s an interesting example of the progressive creep of the dog food industry toward the use of better ingredients – at least in the high-quality foods sector of the dry dog food market.

The maker of Health Food For Dogs, Breeder’s Choice of Irwindale, California, has a much better food on the market: Pinnacle, one of our favorite foods. Despite the optimistic name and cold claims on the front label (“Finest Meats & Grains . . . Nutritionally Superior”) this entry falls somewhere in the middle of their offerings in terms of quality; they have better, they have worse.

We far prefer the use of chicken meal to their mixed ingredient “poultry meal,” especially as a number one ingredient, but appreciate the use of lamb meal and fish meal to offer a rounded complement of amino acids. Aside from the “natural flavors” in the tenth position on the ingredients list, we don’t find anything wildly objectionable included. “Natural flavors” could be anything; in general, “flavors” are added to attract dogs to what otherwise be unappealing fare. With such basically decent ingredients, it seems unnecessary here.

Like many food makers who are rushing to include popular nutraceuticals in their foods, Breeder’s Choice has included herbs such as rosemary, sage, and yucca schidigera extract, some probiotics (bacillus subtilis and aspergillus oryzae), and plant enzymes (bromelain and papain, which are supposed to improve digestion) to appeal to supplement addicts – er, aficionados. The problem is, we don’t know how much of any of these are included, nor whether their inclusions would constitute a “therapeutic dose.” Therefore, we’d have to conclude the addition is just for show.

We thoroughly applaud the inclusion of the guaranteed kilocalories per cup of food (ME 400 Kcal/cup) on the label, as well as the “Best If Used By” date. We prefer for foods to also include a date of manufacture so we can buy the freshest food possible.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “The Best Foods For Your Dog”

-By Nancy Kerns

New Reasons to Spay, Neuter

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Have you hugged your local animal shelter manager lately? He or she could probably use some support about now.

This spring, a crisis developed when the country’s only maker of euthanasia drugs trickled dry due to a regulatory snafu. Many shelters overflowed as employees were forced to use less humane methods of dispatching unwanted dogs and cats.

Now some shelter managers are facing a new challenge: Finding a new outlet for the carcasses of the dogs and cats they have euthanized. The disposal of thousands of tons of companion animal carcases is an enormous problem in this country. For instance, the city of Los Angeles sends some 200 tons of euthanized dogs and cats to a local rendering plant each month.

As gross as it may seem, rendering is considered the best of a limited number of options. The enormous burden cannot be resolved through landfill, and incineration is costly. Rendered carcasses, at least, can be recycled into products such as fertilizers and garden supplements, as well as proteins for poultry feed.

However, rendering plants that produce and sell products for pet food are becoming increasingly reluctant to take on the job of rendering pets. They fear that consumers will reject any pet foods that are suspected of utilizing any substance that could be linked to recycled pets.

This was the case recently, when Valley Protein Inc. of Winchester, Virginia, gave notice to some 75 area animal shelters in Maryland and Virginia that it would no longer provide the carcass removal services it had extended – for a fee – to area animal shelters for the past 50 years.

The company’s president, J.J. Smith, is adamant that the rendered pet products never crossed the line into the pet food products the company makes from other animal sources. Nevertheless, when some of his pet food clients expressed concern about the origin of their products, he felt it was necessary to discontinue the companion animal rendering, lest he lose their far more lucrative accounts. “The pet food industry has understandable concerns that the remains of pets could be included in the pet food they sell to their customers,” he said.

Valley Protein’s decision meant that the area’s animal shelters have had to seek out alternative methods of carcass disposal. Most have engaged the services of crematories, but the fees charged by these businesses are about 10 times more than the amount the shelters were paying for disposal by the rendering plant. Unfortunately, this may even result in a reduction in the number of animals that the shelters can afford to house, or shorten the amount of time they have to try to find new homes for adoptable animals.

John Mudd, supervisor of the Tri-County Animal Shelter in southern Maryland, estimates that his shelter disposes of about 90 tons of animals each year. The fee paid to Valley Proteins for that service was about $9,500. The fee charged for disposal of the same amount of animal carcasses by the cremation service he is using now will be in excess of $90,000. “It’s going to amount to at least a 25 percent overall increase in our total operating budget, which is, of course, outrageous,” says Mudd.

Source: Washington Post

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Reporting problems with medications can help
drug makers ascertain their true safety

All too often, dog owners regard their pet’s bad reaction to a medicine or a topical preparation as an isolated incident. Usually, both the dog owner and the veterinarian are so concerned with treating that individual, it never occurs to them to report the incident to either the drug’s manufacturer or the FDA. But drug companies (and their Federal regulators) need feedback from the ultimate “test population” – our dogs – to ensure continued refinement and development of safe drugs.

If your dog becomes sick, or worsens after taking or being exposed to any drug, immediately take your dog to your veterinarian, and ask her to report your dog’s reaction to the drug maker and the FDA. Sometimes the drug manufacturers are already aware of certain problems that may occur, and can discuss suggested courses of testing and/or treatment with your veterinarian.

Dog owners need not depend on the vet to do this, however. Anyone can report suspected drug reactions to the FDA by calling (888) 332-8387 or by using a form on the FDA’s website.

Veggies Yes, Onions No

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In the June 2000 issue, the weight-loss article (“A Weighty Issue”) suggested using vegetables as a low-calorie, high-fiber filler for the dog. But I was dismayed to see onions on the list of vegetables that could be added to the dog’s food! It’s my understanding that onions are poisonous to dogs.

-Maryann Yuran
Phillipsburg, NJ

 

You’re quite right; too many onions can cause a condition called “Heinz body anemia” in dogs, and though it actually takes quite a whopping dose of onions to cause harm, they are not recommended for dogs in any amount. An editing error saw the inclusion of onions on the list of vegetables that can be added to a dog’s diet. We apologize for the error.

Dr. Richard Pitcairn states that chopped parsley, alfalfa sprouts, finely grated carrots, and finely grated zucchini are dogs’ favorite raw vegetables, and corn, peas, green beans, and broccoli are best fed cooked.

——–

I have two dogs that I walk together, including a large, strong Border collie-Chow mix named Bear, who used to practically pull my arms off on every walk. I can’t count the times I have eaten mulch when he’s caught me off balance. My big, 21-year-old son could control him, but Bear was tough even for him.

I was working on getting Bear used to a head halter according to your article’s day-by-day instructions (“Head Halters, Right and Wrong,” June 2000), when a friend told me her Chow-mix had also been a strong puller, but stopped pulling almost entirely when they walked her with a body halter. Since Bear really protested the head halter, I tried the body halter, and it worked. My teeth have been dirt-free ever since! Bear still pulls a little, but he is very controllable, even for me. I’m not sure what the brand is, but it works well for me.

-Krista Gimeno
Manassas, VA

 

Pat Miller reviewed anti-pulling collars and harnesses in the July 1998 issue. She, too, found a harness (the Holt Control Harness) that she thought worked very well for many dogs. However, she also warned readers away from another product, the Pro-Stop! Harness, which had straps that encircled the dog’s front legs; she found that most dogs were simply befuddled by the intense pressure applied by this harness.

Stay tuned; we’ll be looking at the newest crop of no-pull training products in an upcoming issue of WDJ.

——–

I have several dogs and I walk two on head halters because they are incorrigible pullers. Your article on head halters mentioned the fact that some dogs can pull a head halter off; this has happened to me. Once it was because the plastic buckling mechanism broke, and once because the dog pulled it over the back of her head, not off her nose. Both times the dog was truly loose but, thanks to good training, came straight to me when called.

One of my girls is a real Houdini as well as a puller, so I didn’t want to give up on the head halter idea. Since I walk all my dogs together, using extra leashes was not an option. However, a simple coupler, usually marketed as a way to walk two dogs with one leash, proved a perfect solution. I clip the dog’s leash to the “O-ring” in the center of the coupler and then snap one end of the coupler to the Halti and the other to the dog’s regular collar. Problem solved.

-Theresa Szpila
Sunnyside, NY

 

As a veterinary dermatologist in Southern California, I recently had the opportunity to read one of your articles, “WDJ’s Top 10 Dry Dog Foods” (February 2000). A client asked for my opinion regarding some of the topics within the article. While I would agree and disagree with various points, I respect the fact that there are many differing opinions regarding nutrition and food values by different people. Some of these are based on bias, others on experience, while others on scientific merit.

While nutrition is not my specialty (I bow to those with superior knowledge of that area), dermatology and dermatologic disease is and I would like to address a statement made regarding food allergy in dogs.

Like many clients, your article made the statement that “there are more dogs that are allergic to wheat and corn” than any other dog food ingredients. While this is a commonly held belief, there is no basis for it in fact. While food allergies are themselves often diagnosed, their prevalence in the general population of dogs is believed to be quite low among dermatologists. Part of this is a result of the confusion between food allergy and food intolerance.

Food allergy, as I am sure you are aware, is a situation in which there is an immunologic response to a protein or carbohydrate (most commonly). This immunologic response involves a hypersensitivity type reaction (either Type I or Type IV) and results in increased pruritus and often secondary infections.

In contrast, a food intolerance is a non-immunologic reaction to a food or food component which generally results in gastrointestinal disturbances of various types. Many clients will report that their dog is “allergic” to a certain food because it vomits or has other gastrointestinal disease present while, in fact, it is strictly a food intolerance. Without appropriate food trials and rechallenge of individual ingredients to confirm a hypersensitivity reaction, food allergy is difficult at best to diagnose.

When those challenges are done, the results are often surprising. Dr. Phil Roudebush, a respected member of the veterinary dermatology community, recently completed a complete review of the veterinary literature of the last 30 years. He consolidated the information for all confirmed food allergy dogs in the literature that had been rechallenged and verified.

His results showed only 253 cases in the literature. Of these, beef accounted for 81, dairy for 50, wheat for 40, chicken for 18, eggs for 18, lamb for 13 and soy for 3. There were a few other miscellaneous reactions, but those numbers were minimal. This generally concurs with the clinical implication of most dermatologists that beef, chicken, dairy and wheat are more common than most. So, while wheat may have more numbers than many, it is certainly not the most common reactive ingredient.

On the other hand, corn (though commonly assumed to be implicated) cannot be proven based on the literature available. In my clinical practice, I have seen a few corn allergies, however, those numbers pale in comparison to most other ingredients. Corn would fall under a second category of “food stuffs commonly implicated but rarely confirmed.” This would include things such as additives, preservatives, rice, and potato.

The veterinary communities understanding of foods and food allergy has come a long way and I am sure will continue to evolve of time. Everyone’s interest and input is important and I appreciate the hard work you do in attempting to educate your readers about their pets.

-Rusty Muse DVM, ACVD
Animal Dermatology Clinic
Tustin, CA

On Responsibility

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January 26 was a bad day for dogs everywhere. That was the day the now-infamous pair of Presa Canario mastiffs attacked and brutally killed a woman in a San Francisco apartment building. There isn’t a dog owner in the country – and especially right here in the San Francisco Bay Area, where I live – who isn’t getting dirty looks from the non-dog-owning public. Heck, even dog owners are giving other dog owners hard looks now, especially if the recipient’s dog is having a bad hair day with excitement, or heaven help him, aggression in any form. All because of the horrific act committed by two bad dogs.

But it’s not just the dogs who ought to be hanging their heads in shame; in my admittedly angry opinion, it’s not just the dogs who ought to be euthanized for their crime. In my opinion – and I’m sure, the opinion of every relative, friend, and student of the outgoing, caring teacher who was murdered by the dogs – every person who had a hand in the creation of this tragedy-waiting-to-happen ought to be punished in some serious way. That includes the breeders, who, according to news reports, specialize in the production of fighting dogs; and it includes every person who ever had a hand in the purchase, ownership, care, and (lack of) control of the dogs.

Dogs do occasionally kill people. Not all that often – about 15-20 times a year in this country. Why am I so upset about this case?

Partly because, in this case, it seems there were many opportunities to prevent the tragedy. The people who lived with the dogs, of course, are the guiltiest parties in this respect. They handled the dogs daily; how could they fail to note and respond to the many danger signs of escalating aggression?

But there were a lot of people who failed to protect that innocent woman – and for that matter, who failed to protect the criminal dogs themselves. Within one week of the incident, investigators had already collected dozens of allegations of the dogs’ past misdeeds. People who lived nearby told stories about the dogs lunging toward them in the halls; one neighbor said the male dog had once grabbed him by the leg of his pants as he walked by the leashed animals. Other dog owners from the neighborhood reported incidents of aggression toward both people and other dogs. One man claims that the dogs attacked his Sheltie when the dogs passed each other while being walked by their owners; the Sheltie reportedly received serious injury, including a punctured liver.

It’s impossible to know exactly how many people failed to report these cocked-and-loaded canines to the police or animal control officials. Or how many of the dogs’ owners and handlers failed to properly socialize, train, and even equip the dogs for safe exposure to the world – with muzzles and head halters, for a start.

So, who’s responsible?

Mostly, the handlers, of course.

Who’s taking responsibility?

No one.

It’s hard to believe, but the people who were living with and handling these dogs will not admit any responsibility for the attack. They are both lawyers, sure, but real human attorneys, I would think, would admit some accountability. But no; one of these caretakers (the dogs’ legal ownership is shadowy) went so far as to say, in a letter to the District Attorney, that the victim had several opportunities to avoid the attack but didn’t avail herself of them – she brought the attack on herself, he seems to say. In the same letter, he describes eight separate incidents of aggression between one or the other dog and other dogs or people, and in each incident, he blames the other parties involved.

Today, it feels like the dog world has gone crazy. Let’s take responsibility.


-Nancy Kerns

In The Trenches

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One of the reasons I feel so much for the readers who send us Case Histories about the trials and tribulations they have been through with their dogs is that I’ve also “gone through it” – and I’m still “going through it” – with my 10-year-old Border Collie, Rupert.

A typical overachieving, restless, slightly anxious representative of his breed, Rupe has on-and-off problems with itching and scratching his whole life. About three years ago, I thought we had the problem whipped. I found a food that agreed with him for the first time in his life! He liked it, and he stopped itching.

But about six months ago, Rupert started itching again. I got out the old flea comb and started looking for pests. He’s always been oversensitive to flea bites; if we have ONE flea in the house, I swear, he goes nuts. But I didn’t find a single flea.

I don’t know why it took me about three weeks to look at the label of the bag of food I was feeding him. When I looked, I saw that the ingredients listed on the bag had changed. Argh! Well, I had been talking about changing Rupe over to raw foods; this was a good excuse to give it a try. After all, I had to change his food anyway.

Rupert loved his new food, a combination of a commercial raw-frozen chicken diet and an oatmeal-based “just add meat” diet. His energy was good and his eyes were bright. Amazingly enough, the sebaceous cyst that had been on his side for a year or more went away. But my oh my, how his itching got worse!

I’d been told by virtually every “raw feeder” I know that, usually, the dog’s symptoms get worse before they get better, because the body needs to flush out all the stored toxic residue from years of eating grain-laden kibble. I’d heard people say that a dog switching to raw sometimes loses almost his entire coat – and that then it grows in much more lustrous and thicker than ever. So I didn’t panic – right away, that is.

I’m not going to bore you with all the details; I’ll save them for when, like some of our readers, we finally get all of Rupert’s problems solved for good. Right now, I’m still in a flailing stage. I’ve tried several different foods and supplements, chiropractic (more to address Rupe’s mild arthritis, brought on by years of crashes caused by overenthusiastic and unauthorized fetching), and special shampoos (I’ll be reviewing these soon – I think we have about a dozen in the shower as I write this).

Frustratingly, Rupert has good days and bad days. On some days I think we finally have a handle on his allergies. On other days I think it’s hopeless, he’s just going to scratch himself to death. But he looks kind of pathetic every day. He’s got bald patches around his ears and eyes where he’s rubbed his head on the carpet and on the lawn when no one was looking. His paws are cracked and dried and red where he has been chewing them. And his skin everywhere else is red and irritated. Not long ago, after a couple of especially itchy days, I actually begged the vet for some Prednisone. I just had to give Rupert something to make him stop scratching – for my sanity.

I understand that health is a process; it might take a while to get Rupert stable again. I’m trying to keep my senses alert, to key into whatever I can to get Rupe comfortable again.

The difference between my approach now and, say, five or six years ago, is that I have perfect faith that there is more to the problem than a “flea allergy” and more to the solution than just Prednisone. Knowing that there are a lot more tools available in the healing toolbox helps, and so do your success stories. Keep them coming, and I’ll keep you posted about Rupe’s progress.

-By Nancy Kerns

Benefits of BARF Raw Food Diet

Recently, I had the great fortune to meet Dr. Ian Billinghurst, who may be described as the modern father of the “bones and raw food” diet for dogs. Dr. Billinghurst was kind enough to take time away from a vacation in San Francisco to talk over lunch. I had a lot of questions for the Australian veterinarian, given that I had just finished editing the article about feeding bones that appears on the previous pages. Dr. Billinghurst was patient, helpful, and full of encouragement for me and all other dog owners who are “sitting on the fence” of the bones issue.

 

Dr. Billinghurst, I have to ask you about the fear of feeding bones. It seems this is one of the major problems that people have with the BARF diet.

If anyone is afraid to feed their dog bones, then they should grind the bones. No one should turn his back on BARF because they are afraid of bones. It is far better to have the bones crushed up and mixed in with the meat, than have the dog go back to dry dog food. Grinding them into little bits is the perfect compromise.

 

I often see people discussing grinders on the BARF discussion lists. Do you have a favorite model of grinder or method of grinding?

Actually, when we feed ground bones, we have the meat and bones ground for us at our butcher’s shop. The most important thing is to keep grinding the meaty bones until the bone fragments are tiny and absolutely harmless.

 

But then you must lose the benefits to the teeth? Because the dog isn’t having to chew and grind the food himself?

Surprisingly enough, no. There is no doubt that the physical action of the bones scraping the teeth is important. However, it has been my observation that the dogs who are fed BARF-type diets – where all the bones are fed ground up – so there is no chance of physical cleaning by the bones, and there is no addition of grains or processed food, have tartar-free teeth with no periodontal disease. I have also seen reports from long-term raw feeding at zoos – where the meat and the bones are fed in a ground up state – which support this view. It would appear that it’s not just the physical chewing action that is responsible; there is some biological action at work as well.

 

I think I’ve heard that it has to do with enzymes in the saliva?

That might have something to do with it. I’m not aware of any studies that have been done on this. We have to speculate: It definitely relates to a low-sugar diet. I suspect it is also related to the absence of artificial calcium. Loads of soluble calcium – as found in processed foods – may well be one of the most important contributors to dental calculus. The BARF diet also contribute in a major way to strong local immunity in the mouth. The presence or absence of periodontal disease also involves the pH produced in the mouth by the diet. In other words, mouth health depends on a complex of factors – the healthy factors stemming from an evolutionary diet.

 

What kind of bones do you like to feed most?

We feed mostly chicken. That is, wings and necks, and a lot of backs. We steer clear of thighs, mostly because they are more expensive and because they have a very high meat-to-bone ratio; it’s more meat than you need to feed. The ratio of meat to bone in chicken wings and necks is perfect. But I always tell people to look for young chickens and young animals in general. Young animals have had less time to store toxins in their bones, and the bones are softer and therefore safer. However, we feed bones from lamb and pork and beef as well. Variety is important.

 

Is it true that it’s not necessarily the bone, but the food that the bone comes wrapped in, that is beneficial to the dog?

It is a nonsense to attempt to make that distinction. It has to be the lot. It’s both the bone and the meat and the soft tissues it comes wrapped in and the vegetables and eggs and kelp and other fresh foods that make the dog healthy. But, I agree with you about the value of the soft tissues, For example, the cartilage that the dogs consume with the bones is a major contributor to health. Cartilage has anti-cancer properties, as well as beneficial effects on arthritis. There are all sorts of expensive supplements being produced for dogs that contain glucosamine and chondroitin. They are being used to either prevent or treat those diseases; it’s just another example of something that bones have been doing for so long that we have not been aware of.

 

I often have people say to me, “You can’t feed a dog like a wolf; dogs are not wolves!” Have we manipulated the dog so much that the “wolf diet” is no longer appropriate?

That’s a myth that was designed to sell dog food! It’s true that we have changed the appearance and mindset of the dog over thousands of years. But commercial foods have only been around for, maybe, 7-10 dog generations. It’s a biological impossibility for the dog’s digestive system – the dog’s basic physiology – to have been altered to such a degree in such a short period of time that it cannot deal with real food. The truth is, the dog is having major problems dealing with processed foods. That is why we see so much degenerative disease in modern dogs.

When the dog food industry tries to sell you that sort of nonsense, you have to ask yourself, “What did people feed their dogs before there was dog food?” And, more importantly, “What were dogs like before the advent of the commercial dog food industry?” Dogs were doing fine before the dog food industry came along. There is epidemiological evidence showing that prior to “dog food,” there were occasional instances of a limited number of diseases due to nutritional deficiencies or excesses. These were diseases that are simple to diagnose and simple to fix. Today we have a vast number of exceedingly complex degenerative diseases that are difficult to diagnose, difficult to treat, and very dangerous to the dog. These modern degenerative diseases, which are a direct result of a lifetime being fed cooked and processed foods, are exceedingly common.

We have paid an enormous price for exchanging an ad hoc, home-produced, human-type diet for the commercial, “scientific” diet. These modern diets are cooked and totally lacking in the protective nutrients. They are almost always based on cooked grain. That is, full of starch, a carbohydrate that is totally inappropriate for dogs. These foods either totally lack essential fatty acids, or have excessive Omega 6 fatty acids. Any fatty acids that are present are heat-damaged fatty acids. At best these damaged fatty acids are useless, and at worst, highly toxic. In combination, these problems are a potent recipe for diabetes, arthritis, auto-immune disease, renal failure, and the enormous levels of cancer currently seen in pet animals. We know that cancer is due to mutations; the question is, what’s causing the mutations? I suggest most strongly it is the biologically inappropriate commercial food.

As long as we’re trading pet peeves . . . Consider the nutritionists who say that dog owners are not smart enough to figure out how to feed their dogs a complete and balanced diet. We somehow manage to feed our kids – not to mention ourselves!

Feeding our pets is simple. All we have to do is figure out what dogs and cats ate in the wild, and mimic that, using foods that are available to us today. Dog food manufacturers believe it is hard because they make it hard on themselves! They attempt to make a product suitable for feeding dogs and cats from totally inappropriate foods. Their job is not only hard, it is impossible!

 

Are you aware of any large clinical trials for studying the benefits of BARF over commercial pet food?

Not as yet. It would not pay the pet food companies to undertake such trials for obvious reasons. However, I am aware of thousands of small, in-home trials! These consistently demonstrate that when pets are switched from commercial food to BARF, their health improves dramatically.

There are plans afoot to unify raw feeders – including the raw food manufacturers – as members of a world-wide BARF organization. This will enable us to gather data from our members – the troops in the trenches. We are going to ask them to do blood work pre- and post-BARF. We will ask them to gather any radiographic results, we want to know what sorts of foods they are feeding and what kinds of dogs are being fed BARF. We want to gather sound, verifiable, scientific data to back what we’re saying. The data is available. All we have to do is talk to our members. There are lots of people doing this and they have exceptionally healthy dogs.

However, as more people adopt this method of feeding, there is going to be less and less disease for the vets to treat. This has the potential to make large numbers of vets redundant. This would not be a good outcome for pet owners because there will always be some problems that only a vet can fix. The solution is for the veterinary profession to switch to preventative mode. That is, change their emphasis from diagnosis and treatment to spending more time assessing and preventing problems, in much the same way that dentists have gone from “drill and fill” to adopting a more preventative approach. It should be noted at this point that when the dentists made this switch, they increased their incomes dramatically.

That is why it is important that BARFers with (apparently) healthy dogs make it their habit to visit their vets, often, for checkups and blood tests. It is important that their own vets draw the blood and interpret the results. This way the vets can not only remain solvent, but also, they will see the improvements for themselves. What better way can their be for BARFers to earn their vet’s support? And at the same time, we are gathering invaluable data.

 

Are you aware of any cases of dogs dying from impactions or intestinal perforations?

We see intestinal perforations almost never. The ones I have seen have always involved cooked bones. I have seen one case in the last five years. We saved her. She had eaten a cooked T-bone which became lodged in her esophagus above her heart. If she had not been panicked into swallowing it by her owner, she would have chewed it up just fine. Large bowel impactions are relatively common – one every couple of months. These almost always involve either cooked bones or old dogs or both. These do not involve fatalities, just enemas – an unpleasant job for the vet and the patient.

Bones caught in the mouth – both cooked and raw – are relatively common, maybe one every three or four months. No fatalities here, of course. Often we do not even charge for removing them. In our practice, large numbers of our patients are fed raw bones at least three or four times weekly. This should give readers an appreciation of how rare these problems are. Well worth any small risk – in my opinion. We encourage owners of dogs that have had impactions to only feed ground soft bones in small amounts with plenty of healthy oils and vegetables. We never discourage people from feeding raw bones.

One of my own clients had his dog die shortly after being fed a chicken wing. We took radiographs and there they were: you could see fragmented bits of bones sitting in the dog’s stomach. Did the chicken wing kill the dog? There was no evidence to suggest that. The autopsy certainly did not support that view. However, after closely questioning the owner, I suspect that what actually killed the dog was an anaphylactic reaction to one of the new combined flea, tick, de-worming products that had also been given just a few minutes before the dog’s death.

Another person rang me to tell me her puppy had died shortly after chewing a chicken neck, and that the vet who had attended the puppy told her that the bones that the puppy had eaten had pierced its lungs and killed it. I asked, “Was a necropsy performed? Were radiographs taken?” The answer was no to both questions! I then asked, “So how does this vet know that the wing had pierced the lung?” She said, “I don’t know.”

I suggested that she go back and ask a few more questions. It turns out that the vet had just made up that explanation, based on what he assumed had happened. An autopsy returned an open verdict with cause of death unknown. The point is, sudden deaths are not uncommon in the veterinary world. It is easy to make bones the scapegoat. Not only that, many needless operations are performed because a radiograph – taken for some other problem – revealed the presence of bones in the intestinal tract: a normal piece of feces with pieces of bone in it, happily working its way through the dog’s system. Also, I am aware that there are some vets who say, “I see X number of these perforation/impaction/fatalities due to bones every week.” They say these things with the best of intentions, but they are not necessarily telling the truth. Their good intention is that they assume they would see X number of cases if a lot of people fed bones. And they are trying to discourage this in a misguided attempt to do what they think is in the dog’s best interest.

However, the facts are that I rarely see these problems in my practice – and, more than any other vet, my clients feed whole raw bones! Furthermore, there are thousands of us who have always fed our dogs this way, and we’re not experiencing problems, only fantastic health.

 

Dr. Billinghurst, thank you so much for taking time out to talk to us. Our readers are certain to benefit from the information you’ve shared with us, and we look forward to presenting more information about BARF diets in time.

You’re welcome. In the meantime, I invite WDJ readers who BARF-feed their dogs to register with us for our planned study.

Using Homeopathic Remedies to Help Your Dog

Last month, we looked at how homeopathy works to help a patient’s body heal itself. In this article, we’ll explore how you can use homeopathic remedies to help your dog – and suggest when your dog would be better off in the care of a veterinary homeopath.

In the hands of a skilled practitioner, homeopathy can bring amazing cures of deep-seated illness. But it can also be used by the layperson to treat minor acute problems.

What kinds of ailments can you tackle at home? “You can always treat injuries,” says veterinary homeopath and author Richard Pitcairn, DVM. The best candidates for at-home treatment include bite and puncture wounds, insect bites and bee stings, minor burns, and digestive upsets. Homeopathic remedies can also be extremely helpful if your dog has an emergency (shock or collapse, for instance) if given while you are on your way to seek veterinary help.

But don’t try to treat an illness or injury that seems serious or life-threatening, or is interfering with your animal’s eating, cautions Don Hamilton, author of Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs: Small Doses for Small Animals. Specifically, Hamilton says, veterinary assistance is required if your dog refuses to eat for more than two days, has difficulty breathing, vomits more than once every few hours, has diarrhea or is weak or listless for more than two days, is unable to urinate or defecate, or has any condition that is worsening.

A good rule of thumb, Hamilton says, is that you can safely treat a problem of “short duration, where the animal is generally relatively bright and alert.”

Articles on homeopathy often recommend stocking up on a few major remedies, and suggest one remedy for each ailment. This approach is simple and convenient, but it ignores the reality of how homeopathy works.

Homeopathy treats individuals, not symptoms. So for an upset stomach caused by food or garbage poisoning, Hamilton’s book lists five separate remedies; for bites and stings, he lists seven. He then tells you how to decide which one is right for your dog. This article can help you understand what you can and can’t treat, but to choose the right remedy in each situation you’ll need to consult a reference work (see “Resources for Further Information”) or a trained veterinary homeopath.

How remedies work
As you prepare to treat your dog homeopathically, keep in mind that these remedies are very different from the allopathic, or Western, medicines you’ve always used. First, they’re given one at a time; every remedy you give “cancels out” the previous one. Also, when you administer the medicine, you must wait and observe your dog’s response rather than blindly giving dose after dose for a predetermined period of time. When you see improvement, you generally decrease the potency or stop giving the remedy. Despite the common claims that you cannot possibly make a person or animal ill with homeopathic remedies, many homeopaths feel that if you overdose your patient, you will begin to cause him harm.

A second key difference is that the potency level of a homeopathic remedy is not analogous to the strength of a Western medicine. With allopathic drugs, two 50-mg. tablets equal one 100-mg. tablet. But in homeopathy, two 6C doses do not equal one 12C, since the numeral and letter combination stand for how many times the remedy has been diluted, and the greater numbers represent greater dilution. (It’s one of the apparent paradoxes of homeopathy: that the more a remedy has been diluted, the more powerful effect it can have on your dog.)

Finally, homeopathic remedies have special storage and handling requirements, since they can be “antidoted” or neutralized by a variety of forces. Homeopaths recommend that all homeopathic remedies are stored away from exposure to sunlight, electromagnetic fields, and the strong odors caused by camphor, mothballs, mint, and spices. Even food particles in the mouth can antidote remedies, they say, so withhold food and treats for 15 to 30 minutes before administration.

How to use the remedies
You can find remedies at your local health food store or order them by mail. They most commonly come in the form of small pellets. How many pellets should you give? Hamilton offers this guideline: for small dogs, two to three; for medium dogs, three to four; and for large dogs, four to six. For particularly weak animals (who should be treated only under a veterinarian’s supervision), the pellets can be diluted in filtered or spring water and dripped with an eyedropper into the dog’s mouth. Remedies are also available in liquid form.

The next question is how strong a potency to use. Your lowest choice will probably be 6X, and veterinary homeopaths agree that home prescribers should not go above 30C. “If there is any question about the correctness of the remedy, it is best to start with a low potency,” Hamilton stresses. (Professionals typically use potencies ranging from 6C to 1M, reports veterinary homeopath Christina Chambreau, DVM, of Baltimore, Maryland.)

Once you’ve given the remedy, should you repeat it, and if so, how often? “Waiting is almost always preferable to repeating or changing the remedy,” Hamilton advises. “It may take time for the body to respond.” Higher-potency remedies are usually given only once if there’s improvement, but lower potencies often require some repetition. The goal is to keep the animal improving by giving an additional dose when it seems likely the previous one is about to wear off. If the symptoms worsen, it’s likely that the potency you’ve given is too high, or that it’s the wrong remedy altogether.

“The main factor,” Hamilton writes, “is that your patient should be improving in all aspects, especially her behavior . . . . As she improves, reduce the frequency of administration until you can stop the remedy . . . . You will usually know within two or three doses if your companion is responding . . . Don’t repeat the remedy more than a few times if you are not seeing a good response.” If you have any doubt about whether you’re on the right track at any point, seek professional homeopathic attention.

The remedy should be placed directly in your dog’s mouth. Homeopathic pellets are sweet-tasting, and most animals accept them quite readily. Your dog does not need to swallow the pellets as long as contact is made with the gums. Most homeopaths advise that you try to avoid handling the pellets, as contact with your skin may neutralize them as well. Some pellets come in containers designed for direct administration from the bottle cap into the mouth; you can also pour the pellets onto a fold of paper and slide them into your dog’s mouth.

Since homeopathy works by effecting change in the vital force, most homeopaths recommend that it is not combined with other modalities that also alter the vital force. Acupuncture and most herbs shouldn’t, therefore, be used concomitantly with homeopathy. Holistic therapies that can safely be used alongside homeopathy include Bach flower remedies, chiropractic, massage, and nutritional therapies. Most veterinary homeopaths believe acupressure is also acceptable. A natural, healthful diet is essential to success, they agree.

A risk-free system?
If you’re going to treat your dog at home, you need to understand that this system of healing is very powerful. The common belief that homeopathy is absolutely safe is absolutely untrue, homeopaths warn.

According to Dr. Pitcairn, the highest risk comes when a patient receives a remedy that’s very close to the correct one but is still off base – and novices are more likely to miss the mark altogether. “If you have some knowledge and you use medicines that are similar to the case, especially if they’re used inappropriately, like repeating them, you can cause serious reactions, even life-threatening ones,” Pitcairn says.

More commonly, the home practitioner ends up complicating his dog’s condition by treating it unsuccessfully before deciding professional help is required. This muddied-waters predicament is familiar to homeopathic veterinarians and points up the need to restrict your at-home prescribing to the simplest, most straightforward complaints.

Homeopaths speak regretfully of the fact that homeopathic treatment is often a last-ditch, desperate attempt to save an animal who is deathly ill and has already been subjected to virtually every other treatment available. The case is then difficult to sort out – and the animal’s vital force has been weakened. Worst, Pitcairn says, are “cases that have been through the hands of what are called eclectic practitioners . . . where they’ve used homeopathy, acupuncture, herbs, Prednisone, antibiotics, all together in the same animal.” Homeopathy can still sometimes help such an animal, but the task is far more difficult and success less likely.

Even when homeopathy cannot cure an animal, it can still help by ameliorating his overall well-being during the time he does have left. “If the quality of life improves, even if the quantity of life doesn’t, haven’t I helped?” asks homeopathic veterinarian Christine Crosley.

Homeopathy can also be used in a preventive way. “It should be primary treatment,” says Dr. Pitcairn, “so that when you get a young animal, you start out treating the signs of chronic disease which are so prevalent now in young animals and eliminating them before they get established and cause damage to the body.” The majority of puppies and kittens born today “already show signs of chronic disease that are inherited,” Pitcairn says – something that wasn’t the case 20 or 30 years ago.

The health problems induced by over-vaccination and poor-quality commercial diets are compounded by the short generation time of animals, Pitcairn explains, allowing quick deterioration within the species. But with early homeopathic treatment of chronic illness – manifested as skin disorders, ear and eye discharges, inflamed gums, and the like – the trend can be reversed.

“Homeopathy should be primary care and it should also be used as a preventive program,” Pitcairn says. “If that’s done, and if people look at the vaccine question and don’t overdo that, and they get [the animals] on good food, then they’ll have healthy animals, and the next generation will be healthier yet.”

Also With This Article
Click here to view “How Homeopathy Works for Your Dog”
Click here to view “Treating You Dog’s Injuries Holistically”
Click here to view “Homeopathy Sparks New Life”
Click here to view “Finding a Balance Between Conventional and Holistic Dog Care”

-By Debbie Stover

Debbie Stover is a freelance writer from St. Louis, Missouri.

Creative Dog Toys

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Dogs can never have enough toys, and here at WDJ we are always on the lookout for creative new toys to help you enjoy your canine companions.

Good toys are crucial for several reasons. First and foremost, bored dogs are far more likely to engage in behaviors that – while perfectly natural and reasonable activities for a dog with time on his paws – are not the sort of things that will please you. Things like barking at anything that moves outside the windows of the house, attempting to dig out the source of a trail of ants in the kitchen, or chewing on the table legs. If occupied with toys that are engaging (at least more so than the windows, the ants, and the table legs) and enjoyable (satisfying to chew, say, or so exciting as to be self-reinforcing), your dog is much less likely to redecorate your home when you’re at work.

Speaking of reinforcement, new toys are often even more attractive than old favorites. If you use a toy as a lure or toy-time as a reward, you might find that bringing out an unfamiliar toy increases your dog’s initiative and willingness to deliver the behaviors you ask for.

New and exciting toys also give you and your dog something fun to explore together. Current events don’t interest Fido as “conversation topics,” but new toys do! And watching your dog’s response to the latest, greatest toy is great fun; you never know how your dog is going to respond. One dog’s “Wow, totally cool!” toy is another dog’s “Ho-hum, boring.” While it’s helpful to know your dog’s temperament and preferences in play-toys, these canine guys and gals will often surprise you. That Frisbee-addicted Poodle just might turn out to have a new-found fascination for balls that squeal.

Unfortunately, the fact that you can never be sure what your dog will and will not enjoy means that our test dogs’ favorites may do nothing whatsoever for your pooch. (But don’t dispose the ones that your dog deems duds; consider trading them with other dog-loving friends, or donating them to your local animal shelter.)

In addition to the elusive and variable “dog appeal,” the toy’s cost, safety, and durability are critically important elements of toy selection. Taking all of this into account, we rate a number of new toys on a scale of one to four paws.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Another Round of Dog Toy Testing – A Focus on Safety, Durability, and Cost”

 

-By Pat Miller

Promoting Positive Training Methods

Every so often, at a training demonstration or event promoting positive training methods, a skeptical spectator will ask me whether positive training methods can be used for preparing dogs for all types of careers. I know where they are usually going with this question. Their real question is, “I know you can teach dogs to do cute little tricks with treats and stuff, but what about when you want a reliable dog, like an obedience competitor, a protection dog, or a police dog?”

Their assumption is that in order to teach a dog to respond without fail, to sharply execute the handler’s every command, you will have to use force- and fear-based methods at some point in the dog’s education. When circumstances dictate that the dog has to do what the handler wants, you’re going to have to train that dog to be afraid of what might happen if he doesn’t do it, right?

Wrong, wrong, wrong.

Why “protection” dogs are no different
Police and military dog training are just two of several applications of protection dog training. Others more likely to be encountered by the average dog owner include personal protection, plant security (guard dog), and protection dog sports such as Schutzhund and Ringsport.

Some dogs are taught to simply detect an intruder and sound an alarm (barking). These dogs are useful in situations where biting, or even the threat of biting, could not be permitted. Some dogs are trained to give alarm and offer some physical threat to the intruder. A threat dog must be willing and able to stand his ground after barking at an intruder. Other dogs are trained as true “man-stoppers,” willing and able to win a fight with a human, if necessary.

Dogs trained for protection sports must also demonstrate a high degree of competence in basic obedience training. All of these disciplines traditionally use a significant amount of compulsion and punishment in their training programs.

It’s taken a while, but the fun and effective positive training methods that have produced untold thousands of happy, confident, and obedient pet dogs are finally finding their way into the hands of the trainers who produce police and protection dogs. Increasingly, these enlightened trainers are realizing that positive training not only produces a dog who is just as reliable as a dog trained with old-fashioned force-based methods, but also builds a strong and deep relationship between dog and handler.

“Old school” dog trainer learns new tricks
Interestingly, some of the most vocal advocates of the positive methods in police and protection work are veterans of the “old school,” where dogs are physically forced to comply with the commands given them. That is definitely the case with Seattle, Washington, trainer Steve White, who used to “string up” dogs with the worst of them. But not anymore. In a law-enforcement world populated by tough men and women who use harsh training methods on even tougher dogs, this energetic, fast-talking police officer is a beacon of enlightenment.

Like many positive trainers of today, White got his first dog training experience by attending an obedience class with his own dog, in 1974. The perceptive instructor of that class recognized White’s natural talent with dogs and invited him to become an assistant. White did so, then subsequently joined the military and attended patrol dog handler’s school at Lackland Air Force Base in Texas.

It was in the military that White perfected his punishment-based training methods. From the beginning, he was taught to never back down from a dog, under any circumstances. The first dog assigned to him tested the limits of this type of program. “Astro” was distrustful and aggressive with his handler from their first encounter.

The pair had an armed truce until week four of the training program, when the “Down” exercise was introduced. The military’s method of teaching the down was to tighten the choke chain and drag the dog to the ground. Astro resisted, and the battle was on.

“There was a horrible melee of snarling, teeth, saliva everywhere . . . I felt the choke chain slipping in my hands and knew I was losing ground. So, as per instructions, I strung him up to near-unconsciousness, yelling ‘No! No! No!’ all the while, then tried to down him again when I felt him weakening from lack of oxygen. Meanwhile my Air Force instructors were screaming expletives at me that impugned my manhood, my intelligence, and my family tree.

“I got the same results with my second attempt. I strung him up again and spun around, doing what is known as a ‘Touch and Go.’ I tried another down. This time, amid the saliva, teeth, and snarls, I felt a distinct ‘Oh, that hurts!’ pain sensation. When I went to string Astro up the third time, blood flew everywhere. My instructors quit yelling. Once Astro quit fighting I quit stringing. I got a reprieve from the training program while my wound healed.”

When White got back to the training program two weeks later, he had a new dog, new instructors, and he completed the course without further incident as a Distinguished Honor Graduate. Meanwhile, Astro was finally certified – after biting both subsequent handlers – and shipped off to Morocco, where his fate is unknown.

Seeking other methods
White was highly successful by the standards of his military unit, but he was dissatisfied with his military dog training experiences. While both the Koehler method he had learned from his first instructor and the military methods were effective for some dogs, White realized that they certainly didn’t work well for all of them, as Astro had demonstrated.

Post-military duty, White went to work for the Kitsap County (Washington) Sheriff’s Department. He was assigned another tough dog, and started dabbling with food and toys as part of his training program. He soon got a reputation for having dogs who could do tricks. However, he says that when push came to shove, and when he had to get a dog to do something, he fell back on the use of force.

White continued in that way for some time, using non-compulsive methods for the stuff that didn’t “matter,” and having a lot of fun with it, and using more serious methods for more serious work. Then he began to realize that there was some bleed-over into the work aspects of his training. His trick-trained dogs seemed to have a better attitude about their work.

Positive principles
White continued to search for a method that would work for all dogs, amassing a huge library of training and behavior books in the process. One day in the early 1990s, while working for the Seattle Police Department as a part-time narcotics-dog handler, part-time trainer, and teaching seminars around the country, he found a small tan paperback book that changed his life. While searching for reading material for a flight home from a seminar, he found Karen Pryor’s landmark book, Don’t Shoot the Dog, in the self-help section of a bookstore. When he got on the plane he settled into his seat, opened the book, and was immediately and totally absorbed. The book deeply resonated with him.

“Karen Pryor showed me that while I thought I was looking for a perfect method,” says White, “what I really needed – what every good trainer needs – is an understanding of principles – simple principles that apply to all learning.”

Pryor’s book included three lists of training principles: “The 10 Laws of Shaping,” “The 4 Conditions of Stimulus Control,” and “The 8 Methods of Getting Rid of a Behavior.” White had these 22 sentences printed on a card that he carries (and gives to students) to serve as his guide to handling any training challenge.

Spreading the positive word
Since his Don’t Shoot The Dog epiphany, White has moved and started his own company, Professional Training Services in Seattle. He now spends much of his time providing handler and animal training and consultation services to government, industry and private parties around the country.

White works with a lot of law enforcement agencies, and has credibility where other positive trainers might not, because of his background in and understanding of police work.

As can be expected, he still meets with resistance from force-based training traditionalists, although he reports that it’s getting better. The fact that White can get great results training police dogs with positive methods plays a key role in his increased acceptance. An almost universal problem with trained police dogs is their frenzied barking behavior in the police car.

“I recently returned from the United States Police Canine National Seminar in Boulder, Colorado,” says White, “where we did a lot of work on problem solving with the barking-in-car behavior. Traditionally, police officers have tried to eliminate this behavior through punishment – pulley systems to drag the dog to the floor of the car when he barks, electric shock collars . . . Often this results in a more frenzied barking response from the dog that escalates to spinning and yelping.

“We worked with shaping the absence of the behavior in the dogs – using a ‘Good!’ and a treat when the dog was quiet. If the dog’s threshold (the distance at which the barking was triggered) was 150 feet we started at 160 feet and gradually worked closer and closer. We made progress with every single dog there using this method. By the end of the week, I had given away all my shaping cards and the 500-plus clickers I had brought. Some handlers commented that we had accomplished more in a half-hour of positive reinforcement than they had in years of punishment.”

The ultimate challenge
While most dog owners spend a lot of energy convincing their dogs not to bite, police, Schutzhund, and other protection dog work encourages the dog to bite; it’s a requirement of the job description. As it turns out, the hardest part of this training process is not training the dog to bite – most dogs enjoy the bite work! The most difficult and critically important part of bite work is convincing the dog to let go on command. Because a protection or police dog finds the bite work highly self-reinforcing, the release (or “out,” as it is usually called in the trade) can be a difficult behavior to obtain on cue.

Traditionally, the “out” has been taught using force. William Koehler, a highly respected trainer in his day, describes these methods in his book, The Koehler Method Of Guard Dog Training, published in 1962.

Koehler’s first approach to the “out” involves the use of a throw-chain and sharp jerks on a choke collar. If these fail, he advocates using a wooden dowel that has been slipped inside a rubber hose with which to give a “good clean chop midway across the top of the dog’s muzzle should he fail to ‘out’ immediately on command.” If that fails, he gives happy approval to the use of the electric shock collar. Koehler’s methods are still followed by many compulsion trainers doing protection dog work today. Even many trainers who concede that positive training can work in some areas often insist that you cannot train a positive release.

White disagrees. He teaches students how to train dogs to “self-out,” a positive method that puts emphasis (like all positive methods) on rewarding the dog when it lets go. White says the self-out has an excellent history of success for people who use it correctly, but adds that he doesn’t often see it used correctly.

“The self-out has gotten a bad rap because people have tried to use it who don’t understand the importance of positively reinforcing the release and working with the dog and his level,” he says.

Technical notes
In a number of past WDJ articles about positive training methods, we have described how any behavior can be “put on cue” if a trainer is observant, patient, and swiftly offers the dog an irresistible reward at the very moment the dog performs the desired behavior. Even though teaching a dramatic behavior like biting (and letting go) seems like it would call for more dramatic methods, the self-out can be taught in the exact same way as “garden variety” tricks.

First, White establishes that the dog is thoroughly prepared in the preliminary steps of training. He especially wants to see that the dog is equipped (so to speak) with what he calls a “default behavior,” a requested activity that the dog is highly likely to comply with. His favorite is “Down.”

Using food and play with the dog’s favorite toy, White spends as much time as it takes to ensure that the dog responds with the Down behavior with a high ‘probability of occurrence’ – meaning that the dog is very likely to execute the behavior under even difficult circumstances, or when he doesn’t know what else will pay off.

Then the dog is sent to engage the training assistant’s protective sleeve. Once the dog bites the sleeve, White simply waits. He gives no commands and offers no encouragement; neither does the assistant resist the bite. They just wait for the dog to let go, or to begin to let go. The dog is rewarded instantly if she does happen to let go, but this often takes a while on the first few tries, says White.

“The first time I did this with my dog I waited 18 minutes with her hanging on my arm, until I could see her start to waver,” he says. “At that moment I took out her favorite toy – a piece of fire hose – and gave her the ‘down’ cue. High probability of occurrence – at that point in time she was willing to down, and since she couldn’t comply with down and keep the sleeve in her mouth at the same time, she let go.”

White immediately cues the dog that she has done the right thing by making a “Click!” sound with his mouth (it’s hard to do all this and hold a clicker, too!), and giving the dog her toy. He also adds an additional positive reinforcement by giving her a cue and allowing her to take a new bite.

White follows the same procedure with each successive bite, reinforcing each self-out with a Click!, her toy, and another opportunity to bite. Eventually, he adds a verbal cue for “Out” to the mix, as the dog makes the connection between the new cue and the desired behavior. As long as the reward for the Out behavior is appropriately timed and just as (if not more than) enjoyable as the biting behavior, the dog will quickly and reliably learn the behavior – without stress and without violence.

A word on punishment
Most of the people who train dogs for police work – even the ones who use positive methods, like White – feel that there is a time and a place for the use of punishment.

“Cops are results-oriented,” White explains. “If there’s a problem they want to fix it right then and there. They are also professional fault-finders, who spend their working lives trying to catch people doing something bad. We often have a hard time getting them used to the idea of catching the dog doing something good. To make matters worse, punishment is also reinforcing to the punisher – we get an instant response and that makes us feel good – which is why punishment-based training sticks around even when, like shocking the barking dogs in police cars, it frequently doesn’t give us the long-term result that we want.

“By far the best approach to training is the positive one,” White continues. “Still, on the street, we must have a way to stop the dog who makes a wrong decision if he doesn’t respond to our command. Otherwise people, or the dog, can get hurt.”

For these reasons, White uses what he calls a “conditioned punisher,” that he varies depending on the individual dog. He might use a throw chain for one, a bonker (rolled up towel), a verbal reprimand, or leash correction, but what they all have in common is that he uses the punishment very sparingly. “If you use a punisher too often you create a punishment ‘callus.’ If the dog becomes inured to the punisher and you have to use it harder and harder for it to be effective, it’s a clear indication that you are doing far too much punishing and not enough reinforcing,” he says.

Changing training traditions for the better
White reminds us that a dog’s basic philosophy of life is “What’s in it for me, now?” The rest of us, including cops, aren’t all that different. If we can show law enforcement that the “what’s in it for me” in positive police dog training is a better-trained, more effective, better-behaved police dog – a more reliable and valuable partner for them in the field – police dog trainers will flock to the positive training camp.

Thanks to Steve White and the growing legions of positive dog trainers, as more officers realize the value of having a positive relationship with their K9 partners, the lives of police dogs across the country will be greatly enhanced, until we see “positive police and protection dog training” become more widely accepted and even less of an oxymoron than it is today.

 

-Pat Miller

 

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