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Feeling lost

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I’ve mentioned a bunch of times that I have helped find homes for a number of foster dogs, and helped friends who were looking for a certain type of dog to find one who fits into their family perfectly. As far as I know, all the dogs I’ve placed into homes continue to live happily in those homes – with one exception.

A couple of months ago – on the same trip to my local shelter when I picked up my recent litter of foster puppies – I saw the cutest little dog in the adoption ward. He looked like a miniature Border Collie, or a Sheltie-mix, and was perhaps six or seven months old. He had been picked up as a stray and had been in the shelter for about three weeks. He was a little shy with people at first, but once you had him in your lap (he weighed only about 20 pounds) he would give his heart right over to you (and yours to him). So sweet, so sharp, so cute. I took a little video of him dancing for attention in his kennel and sent it to a friend who had been looking for either a Border Collie (she lives on a ranch 20 miles from the closest town in the mountains) or a nice little “couch dog.” This dog was like a perfect combination of her separate visions for her next dog or dogs.

She loved the video, and wanted the dog. The next day I picked up the little guy so I could foster him for a week in advance of his neuter surgery, so I could start his training and get to know him well enough to offer phone support for further training. My senior citizen friend has no income besides Social Security, so I paid the adoption fee.  At the end of the week, he knew a few basic cues, how to behave in the house, not to chase the cat or chickens, and that sleeping in crates (with your own private stash of bones and toys) is pretty cool. On a day that I had someone else to feed the litter of foster puppies, I put the little guy in my car and drove the 80 miles or so to my friend’s house.

My friend loved the dog, and the dog loved her, and it seemed like he was fitting right in. The ranch cats schooled him (“Chase us, will you? Well, we will chase you right back, you ignorant puppy!”), he learned not to enter the horse pasture unattended (he got chased out of there, too), and while alarmed at first when my friend shouted during football games, he quickly saw that excitement as a fun opportunity to bark and shout, too. My friend joked that she was going to call him “Velcro,” because he stayed glued to her side as she went slowly about her chores, feeding the chickens and the horses and checking the water troughs. Until one afternoon when he vanished. 

My friend didn’t see him go. She says he was there one minute and the next – poof.

She says she called and called, and drove up and down her dirt road calling. She let all her friends and neighbors (such as they are, miles apart) know she was looking for a little Sheltie-looking dog. He was wearing one of my collars and tags, and he is microchipped. But no one reported seeing him. She decided a couple days later that coyotes must have gotten him.

I was on deadline with the last issue of WDJ while this was happening. If I could have, I would have driven immediately over and spent days walking those dirt roads and calling for him. As it was, four days later, after the issue was sent to the printer, I drove over and put up “lost dog” signs for miles around. There has been no sign of him nor word about him.

I know this happens – obviously, or the shelters wouldn’t be full of stray dogs. Heck, he came into the shelter as a stray, picked up by county animal control! But my county is more populous than my friend’s; where she lives, the odds of someone seeing him and calling animal control are abysmal. And she’s right; out where she lives, the coyotes probably did get him.

Every time I see his picture – I took a bunch while I had him, he was so darn cute – it makes me feel so sad. I can’t bear the thought of him running through the woods, lost. Despite all the fun I had fostering (and placing) the puppies, I’m kind of burned out on fostering for a while. I miss that little guy like he was my own dog.

Last Foster Puppy Post

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I could not WAIT for them to go to their forever homes, and the last one went home on Saturday… and now I miss them unbearably – their relentless exploring and fooling around, tireless curiosity, darling miniature barks and howls and growls,

and cheerful learning during our many-times-a-day-for-just-one-minute training sessions. It didn’t help that I let the last puppy sleep with me in my bed, the last two nights I had him.

(That’s what happens when you leave on business trips, Mr. Husband!) I hope his new owner allows him to sleep on the bed; he’s the snuggliest puppy I’ve ever known.

Otto is getting a lot more kisses, however, so he’s quite happy.

Walking Your Dog Tip #3

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Have you ever felt dismayed over the shrinking access for our canine companions? I know that to a large degree we’ve brought it on ourselves by our collective carelessness about proper public and leash-walking etiquette.

Teaching your dog how to walk politely on a leash is more just a convenience.  When you can walk in public with your dog following your moves, he’s more likely to stay out of trouble.

The manner in which you hold and deliver your treats is critical to success with polite walking.

  • When you walk, have the treats in your hand but hidden behind your hip on the side opposite your dog. If you hold them in your hand on the same side where your dog can see or smell them, it will be harder to “fade” (slowly eliminate) the presence of the treats later on.
  • To deliver treats, wait for a second after the click! as you keep walking, then bring your hand across the front of your body and feed the treat.
  • Remember to click!, then give him a treat after a brief pause. If you begin to move your treat hand toward him before the click!, he’s just thinking about food rather than what he did to make you click the clicker.

For more information on how to reform a puller into a more pleasant walking companion, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s Walking Your Dog ebook.

Thoughts On (Foster) Puppy-Raising

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I know that all of my blog posts have been about puppies or puppy care or puppy food lately. That’s because I’ve been overrun with puppies since September 10th, when I agreed to foster six too-young puppies that were brought into my local shelter. Taking care of them has been a challenge, because neither my house nor my office was really set up for puppy care (though they are now), and because if you want to raise them right, puppy care and training takes a lot of time and energy. I haven’t spent so much time with so many puppies since I was a little kid; my parents were animal lovers, but they also were also completely inexperienced with and ignorant about the needs of animals and responsible animal care and control, and so we were forever looking for homes for litter after litter of “accidental” puppies.  But despite the investment of time – and money! – I spent on my foster pups, overall it was a great experience, one that underscored quite a few things I’ve learned over the years that I’ve edited Whole Dog Journal. Allow me to share some of the bullet points with you.

  • Good food makes a huge difference. When I got the puppies, they were in rough shape. They had big, round bellies – full of worms. Their coats were rough and aside from the bellies, their body condition was poor. I started them out on really good quality canned food, to which I added puppy formula (milk replacer). When they all developed the inevitable respiratory infections that pretty much all puppies at the shelter come down with, and were started on antibiotics, I added a goat-milk-based probiotic/digestive enzyme supplement (Pro Bloom made by The Honest Kitchen) to their daily regimen. That helped them handle the antibiotics and their poop went from goopy, disgusting messes to nice firm poops within a few days. When they were about 8 weeks old, I started offering them a quality kibble, and left some in their bowl to snack on between the canned-food meals. Of course, the deworming helped, but I think the top-quality food really helped improve their health and coat quality.

(It also cost a small fortune. The canned food I fed them cost $3 a can; they were eating 3-4 cans a day. The Pro Bloom is $24 for 16 packets, and I fed them one packet a day for about a month.)

  • Good “management” gear makes everything easier. I can’t imagine raising puppies without baby gates, exercise pens, and crates to keep them out of stuff they shouldn’t get in and safely enclosed where you want them. I bought one exercise pen on the day I brought the puppies home and it was so helpful I bought another within the week, so I had two safe environments to keep them in. That way, I could release them from one pen and feed them in a clean pen; I’d clean the first pen while they ate, then take them outside to potty and put them back into the first pen.

  • Socialization is critical to raising a well-adjusted dog. These pups were handled by everyone I knew who wanted to meet them. My son and his (young men) friends played with them endlessly. My two-year-old grandson romped NEAR them (but didn’t actually enjoy being mobbed by them, and I was worried about his stepping on one, so they played on opposite sides of the x-pen). My girlfriends stopped by to visit a lot more than usual. A friend brought over her elderly aunt, who used to raise German Shepherd Dogs but now has dementia. She spoke to them in German and had to be physically prevented from bringing one home. I showed everyone how to ask them to sit, and they were reinforced with treats, praise, petting, and attention. Because they had such frequent, varied, and uniformly enjoyable (not stressful) experiences, they readily approached any human confidently, happily, and without going “over the top” with frantic energy.

  • It’s never too early for training. From the beginning, when the pups were just tiny  (they were estimated to be about 4 ½ weeks old when I got them), I rewarded any puppy any time I saw him sitting. I’d bend down and rub him, feed him a little treat (I used tiny cubes of Natural Balance roll or bits of cooked chicken when I had recently made some), or toss him a toy. I’d make eye contact and say “You’re such a good boy!” As a result, by the time they were six weeks old, I could get the entire group to sit quietly and watch me on cue – a feat that did not go unnoticed on the occasions when I took them back to the shelter for vaccinations (and continued deworming – boy, were they full of worms). The veterinary technician who administers most of the healthcare wasn’t surprised by their behavior on these occasions (I have also taught the shelter volunteers how to teach the shelter wards how to sit politely in front of their kennel doors) but she was impressed by the six little guys lined up on the floor of her exam room, waiting their turns for shots (and treats). On the day I brought them to the shelter for neuter surgery, immediately prior to their being made available for adoption, even the shelter director noticed how quietly and calmly they were in the recovery room cages before and after their surgeries; all the rest of the puppies who were being spayed or neutered that day cried and whined and pooped and whirled in the poop in their cages. But “my” pups were used to being crated at night and intermittently for short periods during the day, and were calm (and kept their cages clean).

All of the puppies got adopted very quickly. I agreed to hold one for 10 days past the adoption date because the adopter was going on vacation the day after she met the puppies (a friend heard she was considering getting another dog and brought her to my house), and one of the others for 20 days past the adoption because the adopter, a lovely young woman, was still in escrow on her first home. She has since closed and is moving in and will pick up her puppy this coming weekend, when everything is in place to keep him well-managed. She’s come by to visit with him and is doing a great job of preparing for his care and training. It’s been fun spending time with him on an only-puppy basis – it really sped up his training and good manners to be around only my well-behaved adult dogs this past week, instead of spending 24/7 with another rowdy puppy. I admit I will miss him (and all the puppies), but boy, oh boy, am I looking forward to spending time with ONLY my adult dogs.

Handling Mistakes With The Jollies

You will make mistakes that scare your new dog. You will drop something that makes a loud noise, or perhaps even accidentally falls right on her. You will stumble over your dog. You will get caught in her leash. You will turn on the TV set without realizing that the volume is cranked all the way up. These loud noises and unexpected commotions frighten almost all dogs that are new to a home.

When you accidentally frighten your dog, it’s best to laugh it off immediately and play a quick round of The Jollies. Basically, you want to act as if you’re having fun, in effect saying, “that is so cool that I tripped over you and dropped the groceries and now there’s a broken glass jar that we all get to stay away from. Wow!” This is not unlike responding to a child who’s taken a tumble. Children and dogs look to us to see if they should be upset or not. Have fun while you move your dog to safety, and continue doing The Jollies while you clean up the mess and give her a treat or two. If she’s hiding just keep doing The Jollies. Don’t try to pet her or lure her out, though you may leave a few treats for her to take when she is ready. You’re trying to teach her that the world is filled with unexpected and startling events, but we don’t have to fear them.

For more tips and advice to train your dog, purchase Training the Best Dog Ever from The Whole Dog Journal.

Putting Together the Puppy Puzzle

puppy being held

Contained in the October issue is an article I wrote about internal parasites – worms. I needed art to accompany that article, and the best thing I could think of to depict a wormy dog was a photo of a typically round-bellied wormy puppy, the kind that is surrendered to shelters all too frequently. I called my local shelter and asked whether they had any wormy puppies with bloated tummies; it turned out that they had just received such a litter two days before, and I was invited to come down and take some pictures.

When I got there and saw the puppies, I was a bit shocked; it was obvious that they were too young to be separated from their mother. The person who had surrendered them said the puppies were eight weeks old, but it was clear that they were more like four and a half or (maybe) five weeks old. They were eating some of the canned food in front of them, but were still frantically searching for their mother’s milk-bar. I took the pictures I needed, but was haunted by the vision of their little faces, incapable of comprehending the change in their circumstances. “What is with all the cold concrete? Why are we all covered in poo? This blanket is okay, but where is mom?” The next day I went back to the shelter and volunteered to foster them until they were old enough to be adopted.

The funny thing is, several weeks prior, two dog trainers who regularly contribute to WDJ, as well as a newer veterinarian contributor, all asked whether they could write puppy-related articles for the November issue. I said yes to all three, thinking we’d have a nice little “puppy development” package as a result, and I’m so happy I did! The timing couldn’t have been better for me! Because their articles – which appear in this issue – arrived in my email about the same time as the litter of six puppies took over my office, I’ve had ample opportunity to use the experienced trainers’ advice for managing both the puppies themselves and the puppies’ interactions with my two 7-year-old dogs.

I’m also keeping in mind the information from shelter-medicine expert Jessica Hekman, DVM, MS, regarding puppies whose mothers may have sustained prolonged and severe stress while pregnant. Before reading the article, I hadn’t ever considered that a dog’s in-utero experience could have an effect on how the dog responds to the world months later. Given the poor condition of the puppies when I got them (parasite-infested, under-nourished, surrendered too young to a shelter), I imagine their mom hadn’t been having a great time lately, either, and I’ve been taking a precautionary “super socialization” approach suggested by Dr. Hekman’s article. (By the way, if you’re interested in hearing more about the pups, I’ve written a lot about this fostering experience on the WDJ blog page)

Final coincidence: I was due to write a wet-food review. I don’t regularly feed it, so opening at least four cans of food a day for the puppies was a good refresher in “what to look for, and what to look out for” in canned food. Enjoy!

Dr. Greg’s Dog Fish Diet tip #2

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I Can’t Say Enough About the Great Treat Bamboozle.

After dry food or kibble, the next most popular dog foods are the endless variety of treats available at grocery and pet stores – also the biggest moneymakers for the dog food companies. Treats can be dry as in kibble or moist like zucchini bread or carrot cake (I must be hungry!). Treats can also be chewy biscuits stuffed with meaty-wheaty sticks or rawhides. Almost all treats contain a high amount of carbs, preservatives, wheat gluten and beef by-products. Every day several miserable dogs become patients at my clinic after eating some kind of allergenic treat.

Treats are not meant to be a complete diet, so they don’t have to pass feeding trials or nutrient profiles that “complete and balanced” dog food does. The truth is that most treats are highly allergenic as well as high in calories, and lack any real nutrition. In human nutrition, they label this type of food as “empty” calories because it does not supply essential nutrients – just more unnecessary carbohydrates that are metabolized and stored as fat. Frankly, the feeding of treats is usually more of an emotional bonding habit than a nutritional necessity. Better choices: Hypoallergenic and more nutritious types of commercial treats made with chicken and rice, chicken and vegetables, or other non-allergenic combinations. Best choices: Baby carrots, pieces of deli meat, healthful leftovers or scraps, turkey hotdogs, green beans and even shrimp.

Ways to Manage an Adolescent Dog

Adolescent dogs, those from about 6 months to 18 months old, are playful, emergetic, and full of curiosity. Try to enjoy this phase while it lasts!

[Updated December 10, 2018]

Is your once cute, cuddly, and well-behaved pup suddenly acting out? Is your dog ignoring you, taking off if he sees something interesting, and chewing on everything in sight? Did his once perfect “sit,” “down,” “stay,” and “come” seemingly disappear overnight? Are his friendly, social ways being replaced with rowdy, over-the-top greetings? Is he sometimes cautious or even suspicious? Does he occasionally look at you as if he hardly knows you?

If your dog is between six and 18 months old, he is in the adolescent phase of life – where his body looks full-grown but his brain is still developing. Many of the so-called problem behaviors seen at the age, such as chewing, overexcitement, and distractibility, are a result of normal physical and developmental changes. Along with the brain maturing, the adolescent body is also going through growth spurts, secondary teething, surging hormones, and fear periods.

The teenage months are often a dreaded stage in a dog’s development; many dogs are given up to shelters or rescues during this phase because they are destructive or out of control. But adolescence doesn’t have to be terrible. In fact, it can be an exciting and fun time. As with their human teenage counterparts, adolescent dogs can be energetic, playful, full of curiosity, enthusiastic about learning, and ready for just about anything.
These following tips will help you not only survive your dog’s adolescence, but also help you both thrive as you travel through this challenging age.

Teenage dog

 

1. Exercise your young dog.

Adolescent dogs seem to have unending energy and stamina. Even an hour-long on-leash walk may fail to make a dent in your dog’s energy. Leashed walks often need to be supplemented with dog/dog play, high-energy games of chase, swimming, and opportunities to run and explore new areas. The more physical and mental exercise you can give an adolescent dog, the better.

However, adolescent dogs need down time, too. Quiet rest for a portion of the day can help keep his stress hormones from soaring too high (which can contribute to overexcitement). Balancing rest, physical activity, and mental activity will help your dog behave his best.

Also, keep in mind that adolescent bodies are still growing and that joints are not fully developed. To reduce the risk of injury, wait until your dog is more than a year old before you start repetitive, joint-straining activities such as agility, Frisbee, or long-distance running.

2. Create positive social outlets.

During adolescence, it is imperative that you continue to provide positive social experiences with humans and other dogs. To keep up your dog’s social skills with humans, take regular walks in your neighborhood or other areas where you will see people. Invite friends to your home so your dog will continue to understand that people are welcome in your house. Practice “four on the floor” or “sit to greet.” When people come over, use a leash if needed to prevent your dog’s jumping – and of course, use treats, attention, and/or petting to reward appropriate interactions.

For socializing with other canines, identify your dog’s favorite playmates and arrange times for romps and rowdy play. Walk in areas where your dog will see other dogs. For on-leash walks, be sure your youngster learns how to pass by other dogs politely, without saying hello.

For the opportunity to meet and greet new dogs, try beaches and hiking paths where dogs are allowed off-leash. Help your young dog learn to greet briefly and move on by reinforcing him with especially high-value rewards (whether super yummy treats or your dog’s favorite toy) for continuing with you on your walk.

3. Keep up your training!

Previous training often flies out the window when a dog reaches adolescence. When you say “sit,” your dog may sniff the ground. When you say “come,” he may act as if he doesn’t hear you. His attention may be everywhere but on you. Try not to take it personally! Developmentally, adolescent dogs (like human teenagers) are learning about the world, their place in it, and their own limits. They may be less interested in you and more interested in friends and the environment. They are learning to think for themselves.

Continue to train – or get started training if you haven’t already. Make training fun, and mix play and training time to keep your young dog engaged. Practice in the real world, but in situations that are not too challenging for your dog, so that he can get a lot of successful practice. Gradually work toward more distracting environments.

In addition, balance “impulse control” behaviors such as sit, down, and stay, with fun and expressive activities such as tricks. Reward your dog generously when he makes good choices on his own, as well as when he appropriately responds to your cues. Use not only treats and food as reinforcement, but also attention, running together, games (like tugging), and the opportunity to explore.

Your adolescent dog’s reliability may be hit and miss. Keep working with him, but remember that he is still growing, developing, and learning.

4. Manage your adolescent dog’s environment.

One of the most important pieces of surviving adolescence is managing your dog’s environment in such a way that he simply cannot get into a lot of trouble. For example:

-Limit your young dog’s ability to be destructive when he is not actively supervised by confining him in a crate or puppy-proof area, with plenty of exciting “legal” chew items.

-If your dog is still learning to come, always use a leash or long line when you are out in the world, allowing him to be off-leash only in areas where he cannot get into trouble and where you can easily capture his attention (or capture him physically!) when play time is over.

Your young dog will not know how to handle the world! Help him make the best choices; use leashes, long lines, crates, and baby gates to help prevent him from practicing unwanted behavior. Remember that adolescent dogs often forget what they are supposed to do, or get too overexcited to do what was asked. Be ready to help them in those moments.

5. Enjoy your dog’s youth!

Your dog’s adolescent energy, enthusiasm, and excitement can be contagious. Take the time to appreciate what your dog is experiencing and learning. And keep in mind that everything is not always easy for the adolescent dog. Other dogs and people are often annoyed with them. The world is sometimes overwhelming or even scary. Adolescent dogs don’t always know how to behave and that is stressful for them, too.

Celebrate your dog’s adolescent antics – his frequent invitations to play, zoomies through the garden, and his delight over the smallest things. Consider looking at the world through your adolescent dog’s eyes – explore with him, and try to enjoy where he may lead you.

Adolescence is the time your dog is becoming an adult. It is also the time your relationship is growing, developing, cementing. Think past surviving your dog’s adolescence to thriving with him through and beyond this developmental period.

Writer and trainer Mardi Richmond lives in Santa Cruz, CA, with her wife and her Cattle Dog-mix. She is the owner of Good Dog Santa Cruz where she teaches group classes and provides in-home training. She enjoys working with adolescent dogs because they are so much fun!

5 Things To Do When Your Puppy Acts Out

Whole Dog Journal

You thought you were doing a good thing for your mature dog when you adopted a new puppy. “She’ll love him!” you assured yourself. “It will keep her young and active.” Rather than loving him, however, your senior girl has let you know in no uncertain terms that this young upstart is a pain in her tail. What do you do when your pesky puppy or active adolescent is making life miserable for your sedate senior? Here are five things that can help:

1. Protect your mature dog.

To some degree, adult dogs can be allowed to appropriately let youngsters know when they are being obnoxious. If your dog thoughtfully reprimands your pup when he’s using her ears or tail as a chew toy, let her. If the pup fails to back off, however, or in general is just too wild and crazy for your mature girl, she is likely to escalate to an inappropriate level of aggression just to defend herself. This can frighten or injure the pup, and create a lifelong tension-filled relationship between the two. Always actively supervise when the two are together, and when the younger dog’s energy is too much, protect your senior dog by intervening so she doesn’t have to. Give the pup a five-minute timeout in his crate or exercise pen, and if he calms sufficiently, let him rejoin the fun. If he’s still too aroused, keep him away from her until he settles.

2. Manage the youngster.

Your adult dog may long for the days when she could laze around the house, stretched out in a sunbeam, without worrying about a 25-pound missile landing on her ribcage. Give that back to her by providing plenty of time when the two dogs are physically separated. They can have separate halves of the house (baby gates are a must-have for multi-dog management), or the youngster can be crated or corralled in an exercise pen if he’s not yet ready for house freedom. Even if you are home, keep them separated for your older dog’s peace of mind except when you are actively supervising.

3. Exercise the younger dog.

Your young dog will be easier to live with for you as well as for your adult girl if you keep him well exercised (i.e., tired). Well-matched canine playmates can do a superb job of keeping each other suitably tired. However, don’t expect your senior girl to be your young dog’s workout coach; she’s already telling you she’s had more than enough of his energy. Find another dog closer to your pup’s age and energy level, and arrange frequent playdates. Both households will be calmer and happier for it, and your mature dog will thank you.

4. Train him, too!

Of course your youngster needs training for his own sake, but teaching him good manners behaviors will also make life easier for your adult dog. You’ll be able to direct him to leave her alone with a cheerful “Go to your mat!” cue, and a good series of training classes will help your pup learn better impulse control and be calmer and better behaved all around.

5. Spend one-on-one time with each dog.

One of the motives for getting a second dog is often to provide companionship for the first. While that’s all well and good, it still shouldn’t take the place of your attention, especially for your original dog, who may be accustomed to – and cherish – her alone time with you. If you thought you were saving time by getting a second dog, think again. You now need to carve out one-on-one time for each dog – the first so she isn’t deprived of the special relationship you created in your years together, and the second so you can create an equally special relationship with him that you will cherish for many years to come.

Pat Miller is WDJ’s Training Editor. 

The Twinkies Experiment

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You know those stories of how Twinkies can last forever? I kind of want to run my own experiment after something I witnessed recently.

There is a cute cat who lives somewhere in my neighborhood who comes over to beg for food from time to time. For months last year, I thought she had been abandoned; I asked all my neighbors if they knew were she belonged and no one did. (I even took her in to have her spayed and it turned out that she had a spay scar, so I brought her back to the neighborhood, but with her tummy shaved.) Eventually, I found her owner, who cheerfully told me that so many people feed the cat, that she doesn’t have to. Oy!

At any rate, the cat had gone missing. I haven’t seen her in at least six months, and I thought the odds were good that the owners had moved or she had gotten killed. And then suddenly, there she was again, on my front porch, begging for food.

Well, I had JUST finished our annual canned dog food review (which appears in the November issue) and there are pouches and tubs and cans of canned dog food all over my office. I grabbed one of the “does not meet our standards” foods, one that was packed in a plastic tub, popped the top off, and put it on the porch. I patted the cat and went back to work.

About six hours later, I was taking the trash out and saw the plastic tub. First odd thing: the cat hadn’t eaten a single bite of the food. Second odd thing: there wasn’t a single fly on the food.

Now, I’ve been fostering six puppies, and I live in northern California, where we’ve been having a terrible drought. The flies have been NO JOKE this year. And it’s gotten so that I can locate any pile of puppy or dog poo in the backyard by the buzzing of flies, which descend within seconds of the poop’s deposit. When I feed the puppies a plate full of (good) canned food, if they don’t finish it, the food is covered with flies within minutes. How there could be no flies on this food six hours later was beyond me.

So I tried a little experiment: At the puppies’ next mealtime, I prepared their (good) food on a plate, and put the plate next to the tub of icky food. I went in the house to get a camera, and went back out. The results?

Within two minutes, there were about 10 flies on the puppy food, and two flies on the tub of poor-quality food. And I think the ones on the icky food were just confused by the proximity of the good food. It’s as if even FLIES didn’t recognize it as actual food!!

Now I want to run further experiments, similar to those people who put a Twinkie away in a cupboard and see how long it will look edible, with no visible mold or rot. Generally, canned foods do not contain preservatives, but there is something in there that seems to repel flies. When I took the good food away, the low-quality food again drew no flies – the first time in my life I’ve been grossed out by the LACK of flies.

2014 Canned Dog Food Review

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healthy canned dog food

How do you choose a canned food for your dog? It probably depends on why you want to feed him a wet food – and it may even depend on how big he is or how old he is. Are you trying to build or rebuild a dog’s health or help a starved dog gain weight? Tempt the appetite of a sick, depressed, (or just fussy) dog? Prevent further health problems in a dog with diabetes or kidney disease? Does your dog weight two pounds, 20 pounds, or 120 pounds? Is she two months old, two years old, or 20 years old? The answers you give will undoubtedly affect your choice, because top-quality canned dog food is extremely expensive.

When you think about it, good foods have to be expensive. This is chiefly because top-quality ingredients like real, fresh meats from named species – one of the main draws of canned foods – cost more than lower-quality rendered meat meals, meat by-products, and plant proteins. Percentage-wise, top-quality wet foods also contain more meat than dry foods – and that’s another reason to feed them, especially to dogs whose health is precarious.

Most pet food companies formulate their products according to the price they regard as viable – what their experience has led them to believe is the most dog owners will pay. This is why the vast majority of canned dog foods on the market contain things like meat by-products, grains (or grain by-products), and/or any carbohydrate sources at all!

But the companies that make canned dog foods that are truly top-quality, with wholesome meats and precious few non-meat ingredients, are not making anything close to the majority of the foods on the market. They formulate and manufacture products for an elite, informed minority of pet owners who will pay a premium price for the best canned foods available.

But when you start examining good canned dog foods on the market in order to sort and rank them according to quality, you will notice that there is a broad range of quality even within this very narrow segment of the pet food market. It’s sort of like splitting molecules: as you discover smaller and smaller particles, the wider and wider the spaces between the particles appear. How do you compare products that contain far superior meat sources with products containing higher percentages of lower-quality meat? Is a product that contains whole organic chickpeas better or worse than one that contains a much smaller amount of a vegetable by-product, like tomato pomace?

What’s Your Motivation?

Again, the answer is that it depends. The first task is to determine whether the product you are considering for your dog is properly qualified as a “top-quality” food. Then you have to look for the features that have motivated you to spend more than the average dog owner on canned food, and weigh them against the product’s weaknesses. What is most important to you: the amount of animal protein in the food? The type and quality of fat used in the formula? Organic or non-GMO ingredients? Domestically sourced ingredients? Are you looking for a grain-free, gluten-free, or carb-free food – and do you know the difference?(Many grain- and gluten-free foods do contain other carbohydrate sources, such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, peas, or chickpeas.)

What about the fat content? The less carbohydrate content in a canned food, the higher its fat content tends to be. Is your dog a slender agility superstar, apt to lose 10 percent of his body weight over a weekend trial, who would benefit from a high-fat food? Or is he a senior couch potato with limited mobility, who needs a reduced-fat formula?

Same goes for protein. Depending on your dog, higher amounts of protein can be a good or a bad thing.

What about moisture? Are you looking for a stew-like product with 85 percent moisture, to increase your dog’s hydration? Or is the average amount of moisture (78 percent) in a meatloaf-style food plenty for your dog?

Below is our list of selection criteria – hallmarks of quality – that you can use to identify whether the product you are considering is in the “premium” strata of the market. We also list some deal-killers – traits that eliminate products from our consideration. And starting on the facing page is a list of companies (listed alphabetically, not ranked) that make canned foods that possess all the requisite hallmarks of quality and that have no disqualifying characteristics. Your priorities for your dog – and your budget! – will have to determine which of these WDJ-approved foods is “best” for you and your dog.

You can do this! Just read the labels!

Hallmarks of Quality

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Hallmarks of Quality

The following is our selection criteria – the things a canned dog food must have to appear on our “approved” foods list:

-A whole, named animal protein in one of the first two positions on the ingredients list. “Whole” means no by-products. “Named” means a specific animal species – chicken, beef, pork, lamb – as opposed to “meat” or “poultry.” Because we are looking for products with the highest possible inclusion of top-quality animal proteins, we’d choose a product with meat first on the label over one that listed water (or broth) first and meat second.

-Named fat sources.

-If vegetables, grains, or other carb sources are used, we prefer to see them whole, rather than by-products (potatoes, rather than potato starch, for example).

Disqualifiers

There are actually far more traits that automatically disqualify a canned food from our consideration. Quality canned dog foods should not contain:

-An unnamed animal protein or fat source, such as “meat,” “poultry,” or “animal fat.”

-Any meat or poultry by-products.

-Wheat gluten, which may be used as a cheap source of plant protein, a thickener, and/or a binder, holding together artificially formed “chunks” of ground meat.

-Sugar, molasses, or other sweetener.

-Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.

 

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