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Nystagmus in Dogs

Nystagmus in dogs is rapid eye movement that is closely associated with vestibular disease in dogs.
Nystagmus or rapid eye movement in older dogs often just comes down to supportive care, ensuring he’s safe, comfortable, and eats and drinks. Credit: UK Mal | Getty Images

If your dog’s eyes are rapidly moving, seeming uncontrolled, your dog may be suffering from nystagmus. It’s usually part of vestibular disease, which is common in older dogs. Your dog may be walking in circles with his head tilted, in addition to the rapid eye movement. He also may have ataxia, which is indicated by a wobbly, unbalanced gait.

The affected dog’s eyes can move rapidly back and forth (horizontal nystagmus), up and down (vertical nystagmus), or even in a circular motion (rotary nystagmus). The movement is involuntary and usually occurs in a steady rhythm. While a mix of movements are possible, most often the eyes move to one side then back.

When anything messes with the vestibular system, which is responsible for the dog’s balance, the dog’s eyes are potentially affected too. Normally, when your dog moves his head, his eyes adjust to the movement. With nystagmus, the eyes move even when the dog’s head is still. Not surprisingly, the dog usually becomes nauseous.

What Causes Nystagmus in Dogs?

The vestibular system is a part of the brain and includes middle and inner ear components. Injuries or infections of the deep ear structures may cause nystagmus. Sometimes something as simple as a thorough ear cleaning at the vet clinic may cause a short bout of nystagmus. Brain lesions such as encephalitis, certain viral infections, and cancers may cause nystagmus as well.

Old dog vestibular disease is generally of unknown cause but appears in senior dogs and usually resolves, or almost completely resolves, in a few days to a week or two. The nystagmus may stop before the head tilt and circling signs subside.

How Do You Treat Nystagmus in a Dog?

There are no “magic eye drops” for this condition. The goals are two-pronged: You want to identify the cause, if possible, and treat it or provide supportive care.

Diagnostics usually start with a thorough physical examination, including looking into the ears. A neurologic exam could provide information about the overall neurological health of your dog. X-rays, bloodwork, and possibly even an MRI may be indicated in some cases. With a senior dog, your veterinarian may suggest that diagnostics can wait while you see if your dog responds on his own.

Treating Nystagmus in Dogs

Supportive care generally requires you keep your dog safe. He can’t move around safely with this condition. Block off steps, go back to leash walks instead of free yard time. Crate him when you are not around.

Your dog will be nauseous, so your veterinarian may prescribe some anti-nausea medications. It is important that your dog eats and drinks. You may need to hand feed and resort to special treats to get him to eat. You can hold the bowls for him if that helps. If he does not drink, the veterinary staff can show you how to give subcutaneous fluids at home.

Most dogs show improvement in 24 to 72 hours. Complete recovery may take two to three weeks. In most dogs, nystagmus will clear first, then the head tilt and circling will end.

 

Using Dog Sign Language in Training

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Verbal cues aren't the only aren't the only cues dogs will react to. Dog sign language provides visual cues for dogs to respond to.
With consistent training and rewards, your dog will learn to read your hand’s sign language and understand what you are asking them to do. Credit: Jarih | Getty Images

Do you use hand signals to communicate with your dog? You should! When dogs know both hand signals and verbal cues, they are far more likely to respond to the hand signal than a verbal cue. A study published in Animal Cognition shows that “while dogs respond to both gestural and verbal requests, gestures are more salient than words.”

Yes, dogs are tuned in with body language, both of each other and of humans, so training hand signals is an important part of training. They can sense the intent of action from body language displayed by us and therefore understand us more clearly. Deaf dogs, of course, are dependent on those hand cues, and teaching them now can help if your dog loses hearing function as they age.

Dogs Read Body Language First

When I taught group classes, I would explain to my students that if they said one thing to their dogs with their voice and another thing with a hand signal, their dogs would be far more likely to respond to the hand signal than the verbal cue. I have always taught a hand signal for some things before I ever get to the verbal equivalent.

An example of that is teaching a sit or a down cue. My dogs have always learned the hand signal first. I eventually add a verbal cue, simply because I feel like I should but usually months later. What I personally use more frequently are hand signals.

If you’ve already taught basic cues using verbals like sit, wait, stay, and down, you can still add hand signals. Just start doing it. You will be surprised at how quickly your dog understands what you mean. If your starting your training from scratch, this article by noted trainer Kathy Callahan can help you get started, using hand signals first, then adding verbals.

Hand Signals to Teach Your Dog

Dogs learned to read our body language to determine our intent, especially movement and action. While you can use whatever hand signal is comfortable for you, examples of the hand signals that I teach my own dogs include:

  • Sit: Fist made with thumb on top of closed fingers presented with knuckles facing the dog and fingers on the upside. You can teach it this way with a treat inside of your hand initially and the hand signal still looks the same sans treat inside. When actionable, it resembles a hand pulling a zipper up.
  • Down: Fist made the same way as above but fingers/thumb facing down and knuckles facing up. Again, treat can be inside initially and easily relinquished with a proper down completed by simply opening the hand after flipping it up. This hand signal also looks the same sans treat.
  • Touch: The usual way, flat palm, fingers tightly closed, palm up initially started literally right in front of the nose but underneath a bit to not look threatening.
  • Chin Rest: Flat palm, fingers tightly closed, offered level under/near the chin but sideways positioned to the dog’s head, underneath the chin.
  • Wait: Flat palm, fingers tightly closed, positioned with the fingers pointing to the sky with a brief push forward when initially offered.
  • Paw: Mirror image hand offered palm up slightly cupped just in front of either front leg.
  • By Me: Slightly extended arm with hand horizontally aligned, thumb up, with a waving motion in my direction aimed near my chest area. This is for a busier environment when on leash to keep my dog close.
  • Can I Have That? (my name for Drop It): Palm up, fingers closed, positioned with fingers slightly cupped aimed towards the dog’s mouth just in front of such.
  • Here Here (means come inside the house or come closer to me, period): Standing sideways to the dogs on my porch, using either arm extended while making a welcoming motion with my hand towards the door or myself.
  • Stand: When the dog is seated, I use a flat palmed aimed down horizontally aligned hand positioned sideways to their nose and move the hand away from their nose to cue a stand.
  • Spin: Primary finger pointing with thumb extended as well, other fingers closed, while making a circular spinning motion. One dog is a leftie, so his hand signal is reversed in position.
  • All Done: Jazz hands to indicate we are done training for the moment, no more treats.
  • Left and Right Turns: Pointing in the direction to go with arm extended. I used to hike, and trail run with multiple dogs on leash, so they were trained to look to me for which way we were heading when reaching a trail split. I am no longer that energetic but maybe you are?

I asked some fellow trainers which hand signals they use with their own dogs and was rewarded with these gems from Denise O’Moore, a trainer in Ireland:

  • Distance Recall: Closed fist in the air.
  • Go Play: Open hand.
  • Come and Sit: Open hand to the side.
  • Fast Distance Recall: Touching her bag means there is a toy so come at record speeds please.

Hand signals are a sign language for dogs. They are such a clearer communication method than verbal cues. There are so many things that can be more easily conveyed to dogs with hand signals and body language than with verbal cues. Dogs are experts in body language. Subtle differences in how you hold your hand when signaling to your dog what you want from them can make a huge difference. Being precise and consistent with your communication makes for less misunderstandings. Adding dog training hand signals to your repertoire with your dogs can only improve your mutual understanding so try it today.

The Pain of Making the Euthanasia Decision

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Leroy was a mixed breed dig fostered by Nancy Kerns who has reached the end of his life.
I took this photo on the day I first met Leroy at my local shelter in 2011. I picked him out as one of two dogs at my local shelter I wanted Stephen and his partner to meet and potentially adopt; they were looking for a small but not tiny dog. His fun-loving but compliant demeanor was on display from our first meeting. Photo by Nancy Kerns.

In the past few days, I’ve exchanged dozens of texts and phone calls and one FaceTime session with a long-time friend regarding his dog Leroy. Stephen and his partner adopted Leroy from my local shelter in September 2011—and in the 13½ years since, we’ve probably exchanged hundreds of texts and emails and phone calls about the happy, clever little dog.

Leroy was the first dog Stephen had ever owned, and was the first dog his partner had owned as an adult, and they often had questions about the joyful, willful little mixed-breed dog! As Stephen’s long-time friend and adoption facilitator (I selected Leroy, who was then an estimated 7 to 9 months old, as a good candidate for my friends following a disastrous adoption failure from another shelter), I was asked for advice regarding Leroy’s diet, training and behavior, boarding/pet sitting, and, starting in Leroy’s middle age, advice about his health issues.

Sometimes even a long lived dog doesn't live long enough.
Stephen and his partner made a sizeable donation to my local shelter after adopting Leroy. At the time, a pet supply store chain in their area would have a giant poster made with your dog’s photo when you showed proof of a donation of a certain size to a shelter. Their donation enabled Leroy’s poster to be made and hung in one of the stores—as well as another giant poster for my dog, Otto! Photo by Mark Rogers, for Petfood Express.

Leroy had some intermittent lameness, which eventually resolved with a costly but effective spinal surgery; in the past two years, he started having urinary tract issues, which were eventually traced to cancerous tumors. Stephen and Scott spent a small fortune on chemotherapy and surgery, with the hopes of giving the little dog an estimated four to six more months to live; he made it 15 months before his kidneys failed. Despite having to wear an incontinence garment indoors in the past few months, until just a week ago, Leroy still enjoyed his meals, going for walks with his owners, rolling in the grass at the park, greeting his many friends in dog-friendly stores in his neighborhood, and living his sweet comfortable life with his owners.

But in the past few days, his health took a sudden nosedive. At the veterinary ER, he was put on IV fluids for two days in an attempt to improve suddenly off-the-charts-bad lab results indicating that his kidneys had more or less quit functioning; those values didn’t budge even with rehydration therapy. He stopped eating. Stephen and his partner made the decision to bring Leroy home and make the call to a veterinarian who would euthanize Leroy after they had one more day to spend with him.

I spoke to Stephen several times during Leroy’s last day. Stephen stayed home from work and spent every minute watching the little dog and working to keep him comfortable. He administered subcutaneous fluids, which, in combination with an anti-nausea medication, made Leroy feel good enough to eat some chicken and some baby food. But Leroy mostly slept.

Stephen had second thoughts about having a vet come to euthanize Leroy; with another day or two on IV fluids, might his kidney function improve enough to give him another couple of days or weeks? One of the vets who saw him on his last day at the emergency clinic thought it might. Stephen wanted to know what I thought.

I told him that the decision absolutely sucked, it was awful, and no one could tell him what was the right thing to do. That it’s our responsibility to do our best to make the decision that would spare our friends the most pain, without robbing them of the potential for more good days, and that it’s impossibly difficult to know if you’ve made that calculation accurately. That no matter what, we are likely to feel like we didn’t make the right decision. I shared with him that I am haunted by the idea that I had my beloved Otto euthanized too early, when perhaps he had another good day or two in him; but one of my best friends is haunted by the idea that she had her dog euthanized too late, and the dog had a painful last day and a traumatic last hour. You just have to do what you think is best for your dog.

Stephen asked me to observe Leroy, and we switched our call to a FaceTime video. I teared up when I looked at Leroy’s darling foxy little face, now with a distinguished grey muzzle. His cloudy eyes were open as he lay there; he looked exhausted, near death. But then suddenly he sat up and licked some baby food out of a jar that Stephen offered him, and then walked over to one of his other dog beds and emphatically rearranged the fleece blanket in the bed to his liking before curling up to go back to sleep. It was easy to see that he didn’t feel good, and yet he was still himself.

I told Stephen, “We should be so lucky, to have such a nice last day. He’s home, not in the hospital. You’re home, and Scott will be home soon. Leroy is failing, but given the help from all his meds, he’s not in agony—but that pain is barely being held at bay. If you ask me, it’s time—but you have to make the decision.”

Stephen and his partner kept the appointment with the housecall veterinarian; Leroy passed easily and peacefully. But my friends are still in shock at Leroy’s sudden decline and that they didn’t have more time to weigh the euthanasia decision. I am doing my best to offer them some comfort—but I also know that living with doubts about whether or not you made the right call is par for the course.

Does you ever feel like you did exactly the right thing at the exact right time? How do you cope if you feel you didn’t handle things perfectly?

Is Chicken and Rice Good for a Dog?

How much chicken and rice to feed a dog when then are sick?
Chicken and rice will help get digestive issues under control, but it’s not an option for feeding more than a few days. Credit: Hxyume | Getty Photo

A chicken and rice diet is a common home remedy for dogs experiencing digestive upset, especially diarrhea. The bland combination is typically palatable for dogs and can help provide some nourishment during recovery. But how much chicken and rice should you feed, how long should your dog be fed chicken and rice, is it safe to feed your dog chicken and rice every day, and is there a better alternative? Let’s break it down.

The combination of chicken and white rice is easy on the stomach and provides easily digestible protein and carbohydrates. When your dog has diarrhea, switching to a bland diet gives their digestive system a break from heavier, harder-to-digest ingredients, like fats. The chicken you use should be unseasoned, boneless, skinless chicken breast; the legs, thighs, and skin of chicken all have a higher fat content that can worsen diarrhea and cause further gastrointestinal (GI) upset.

How to Boil Chicken and Rice for Your Dog

When cooking the chicken, boil it until it reaches an internal temperature of at least 165°F (74°C). Do not feed raw chicken, as the bacteria present can worsen your dog’s illness, especially with an already compromised system. The rice should be plain white rice and should not include any butter, oil, or seasoning.

How Much Chicken and Rice to Feed a Dog

When determining how much chicken and rice to feed, a good starting place is about 2% to 3% of your dog’s body weight per day in total food. When feeding a temporary chicken and rice diet, aim for a 2:1 ratio of rice to chicken and split up the daily amount into multiple small meals given throughout the day. You don’t want to overload your dog’s digestive system. For example, a 22-lb. (10 kg) dog should eat around 0.55lbs (250 g) of food daily, which is roughly 165 g of rice and 85 g of chicken.

Our chart on how much chicken and rice to feed your dog breaks everything down for you:

Dog Weight Total Daily Food Chicken Rice
5 kg (11 lbs) 100 – 150 g (0.22 – 0.33lbs) 33 – 50 g 70 – 100 g
10 kg (22 lbs) 200 – 300 g (0.44-0.66lbs) 65 – 100 g 130 – 200 g
15 kg (33 lbs) 300 – 450 g (0.66 – 1lb) 100 – 150 g 200 – 300 g
20 kg (44 lbs) 400 – 600 g (0.88 – 1.32lbs) 130 – 200 g 270 – 400 g
25 kg (55 lbs) 500 – 750 g (1.1 – 1.6lbs) 170 – 250 g 330 – 500 g
30 kg (66 lbs) 600 – 900 g (1.3 – 2lbs) 200 – 300 g 400 – 600 g
35 kg (77 lbs) 700 – 1050 g (1.5 – 2.3lbs) 230 – 350 g 470 – 700 g
40 kg (88 lbs) 800 – 1200 g (1.7 – 2.6lbs) 270 – 400 g 530 – 800 g

 

You should feed your dog chicken and rice for no longer than two to three days, or until their stool becomes firm and regular. Once diarrhea stops, start reintroducing your dog’s regular food slowly over the next few days by mixing it with the chicken and rice:

  • Day 1: 75% chicken and rice, 25% regular food
  • Day 2: 50% chicken and rice, 50% regular food
  • Day 3: 25% chicken and rice, 75% regular food
  • Day 4: 100% regular food

If diarrhea continues for longer than three days, or if additional symptoms such as vomiting, lethargy, blood in the stool, or loss of appetite occur, contact your veterinarian.

How Long Should I Feed My Dog Chicken and Rice?

A diet of chicken and rice does not constitute a complete diet for your dog and should not be fed long-term. It lacks essential nutrients and feeding it daily can lead to nutritional deficiencies over time.

For this reason, a better option is available for dogs with upset stomachs that both vets and nutritionists prefer: canned sensitive stomach dog food.

These specialized diets are typically more effective and are nutritionally complete and balanced, ensuring your dog has all the nutrients needed to support your dog’s health during and after their upset stomach resolves without risking nutritional deficiencies.

Canned sensitive stomach dog food recipes typically contain easily digestible proteins, such as chicken, turkey, salmon, or hydrolyzed proteins. This is especially advantageous for dogs that have sensitivities to chicken, as it provides alternative proteins that will not further exacerbate the GI issues. Sensitive stomach formulas also contain low-fat contents that provide the essential fatty acids your dog needs in their diet without causing pancreatic strain, easily digestible carbohydrates like rice, oats, or barley, and soluble fiber to help firm up the stool and promote regular bowel movements. I recommend canned or wet formats over dry, as dogs with diarrhea can typically benefit from the additional hydration.

Sensitive stomach formulas take out the guesswork when it comes to preparing your dog’s meal. Feeding chicken and rice requires boiling and preparing each portion and measuring out the correct ratio for your dog. Even with the best intentions, homemade meals can be inconsistent. Sensitive stomach foods provide consistency and balance and are easy to keep on hand in case your dog suddenly comes down with an upset stomach. This can help make mealtimes easier and take out the guesswork when you are juggling cleanup and care.

When to Switch from Chicken and Rice for Your Dog

Chicken and rice should only be fed for a maximum of two to three days and is not designed for extended feeding. If diarrhea or stomach upset lasts longer, you risk nutrient deficiencies on chicken and rice alone. Sensitive stomach dog foods, however, are safe for extended or even lifelong feeding, especially for dogs with chromic conditional such as inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), sensitive digestive tracts, food allergies, and recurrent pancreatitis.

While chicken and rice can be helpful in a pinch, it is best reserved for very mild cases of diarrhea or vomiting, particularly when your dog is refusing to eat their usual food or needs a gentle, short-term diet. This bland combination is suitable for temporary use—typically no more than 1 to 3 days—to give your dog’s digestive system a break.

However, if your dog’s symptoms persist beyond just a few days, or if they have underlying health conditions, chicken and rice may not provide the complete support they need. In contrast, sensitive stomach dog food is specially formulated to address digestive issues while offering balanced nutrition. It is a more consistent, long-term solution that not only supports your dog’s recovery, but also helps prevent nutritional deficiencies, promotes healthy digestion, and ensures your dog is getting all the essential nutrients they need. Regardless of diet, if your dog’s symptoms persist for more than a few days, worsen, or if your dog stops eating and drinking, be sure to consult your veterinarian.

Puppy Separation Anxiety

Puppy separation anxiety is the beginning of separation anxiety, and how you handle it will determine how your dog deals with your absence as an adult.
Caption: A puppy who is properly crate trained will understand they can stay calm when alone and that you’ll be back. Credit: PongMoji | Getty Images

How do you help a puppy with separation anxiety? Well, note that true separation anxiety in a puppy would be rare. Most puppies suffer from separation distress because they were never trained to be alone or separated from their humans. It’s still traumatizing for both the puppy and the human so properly addressing this is important to move forward successfully without creating true separation anxiety in the future.

Note: If your puppy is suffering from true separation anxiety, which includes destructive behavior like eliminating nearly immediately after being left alone (even if they have just done so before you left) or causing harm to themselves trying to get out of the crate or an enclosed area, then you should speak with either a veterinary behaviorist or a separation anxiety specialist as that is a true mental health emergency.

Puppy Separation Anxiety vs. Distress

Although technically not separation anxiety, separation distress can include whining and crying, perhaps howling but no self-harm or destruction. It can include periodic elimination when left alone but that result in of itself is not specific to just separation anxiety. Panting and drooling as well as paw sweating can be additional signs of separation distress. Pacing is another sign as well as the overall inability to relax when alone.

Training a Puppy to Accept Separation

Helping a puppy to feel safer when left alone is a multi-layered process. The space that the puppy is left in when alone, whether it is a crate or an ex-pen or even a dog-proofed room, should be a space where they regularly spend happy time with you in, such as your kitchen, bedroom, or family room. It should not be a crate in a basement that the puppy only gets placed in when their humans are leaving. That opens the door for anxiety.

Your puppy should have sufficient mental and physical enrichment and exercise prior to an extended period alone. A nice long walk with lots of sniffing (sniffari), as well as interactive play with you and calming enrichment such as a snuffle mat after energizing physical activity will go a long way toward creating a calm stress-free baseline. Your puppy should have been fed recently and allowed sufficient time to eliminate so that need doesn’t create anxiety in him when you are gone. Knowing your puppy’s elimination habits can be very helpful to timing this properly.

Crate training in a positive manner in advance of leaving your puppy alone is the kindest act that you can do for them to have a calmer puppy when they are alone.

Starting by simply leaving your puppy alone when you visit the bathroom can be a good option. Gradually leading up to perhaps showering or doing laundry on another floor can be helpful. Going out the door to grab the mail is among the next steps. I like to add these things into the day as soon as I get a puppy. My current puppy was taught to be alone at the breeders (with other dogs), but when I got him and crated him initially, with my other dog in an ex-pen next to him, he panicked. I added Vetriscience Composure (now called Calm and Confident) at an appropriate dose about 30 minutes before exits and that helped, as did leaving him an easy to empty puppy Kong as well as all the other previous steps that I mentioned.

Some experts will tell you to ignore your puppy when you leave and return instead of acknowledging them. I disagree. I am in the camp that believes you should not do drama over either but still acknowledge that you are saying bye and hi to a family member, just like you would with any other family member. I choose to say, “I’ll be back.” And I name where I am going (work, store).

When I return, I verbally acknowledge my dogs and act happy to see them. I am relaxed and not acting urgently to release them. I think relaxed versus drama is important, especially to drama-prone puppies as mine was when he was younger. I believe ignoring them when leaving and returning unless they are calm creates more neediness.

The bottom line is that being casual about exits and returns as well as providing a good foundation that allows for all possible needs having been met before extended absences will be your magic wand for easier separations.

Is That a Hot Spot on My Dog?

Hot spots in dogs are a pernicious problem, but home remedies for hot spots can be effective.
If you notice your dog obsessively licking or scratching one particular area, keep an eye on things as it may be an indication something is wrong and that constant licking and itching can cause a hot spot. Credit: Elizabeth Beard | Getty Images

Hot spots, also known as acute moist dermatitis, are a common, painful skin condition in dogs. These raw, inflamed, and sometimes oozing lesions can appear suddenly and worsen quickly if left untreated.

Hot spots are typically the result of an underlying issue that leads a dog to excessively lick, scratch, or chew a particular area, causing irritation and infection. Understanding the causes, treatment options, and preventative measures can help you effectively manage and prevent future hot spots for your dog.

Hot Spots Are Infections

Hot spots are localized areas of inflammation and infection of the skin. They usually present as red, moist, irritated patches that can be painful and prone to rapid enlargement. The affected area may have missing fur, a sticky or crusty texture, and an unpleasant odor due to bacterial infection.

Hot spots develop when a dog persistently licks, chews, or scratches a particular area, causing skin damage and allowing bacteria to thrive. Several underlying factors that can trigger this excessive self-grooming behavior include allergies, external parasites, skin infections, trapped moisture, and underlying pain or stress.

Causes of Hot Spots on Dogs

Hot spots can occur anywhere on a dog’s body, but they commonly occur on the limbs, head, neck, and hips. Causes include:

  • Environmental allergies. Pollen, dust mites, and mold can trigger an allergic reaction in dogs, causing itchy skin.
  • Food allergies. Dogs who are sensitive to certain ingredients in their food or treats can lead to inflammation, which then causes excessive scratching, licking and chewing.
  • Flea-allergy dermatitis occurs in dogs who have a reaction to flea saliva. These dogs can develop intense itching from even a single flea bite, leading to hot spots. Fleas themselves can also cause itching, as can skin mites and ticks. Staying on top of monthly parasite prevention can help minimize the risk of your pet getting fleas or ticks.
  • Bacterial or fungal skin infections. Skin infections can cause localized irritation that prompts dogs to lick and chew the area, worsening the condition. These infections can be caused by multiple factors, but trapped moisture from swimming, bathing, or humid weather can create a warm, damp environment that is perfect for bacterial and fungal growth.
  • Matted fur. Tangles of matted fur prevent air circulation and trap dirt and moisture to the skin. Really bad mats can pull on the skin, which leads to sores. Breeds with long hair and breeds with skinfolds should be monitored closely for these infections and kept as dry as possible.
  • Joint pain or arthritis may cause dogs to lick certain areas as a form of self-soothing.
  • Stress, boredom, or anxiety can also lead to excessive licking as a coping mechanism.

Treating a Hot Spot on a Dog

Once a hot spot appears, prompt treatment is essential to prevent it from worsening. Follow these steps to treat a hot spot:

  1. Carefully trim the fur from around the affected area to allow for better air circulation. It also makes it easier to clean and treat the wound.
  2. Gently cleanse the area with a mild antiseptic solution such as diluted chlorhexidine or betadine. Avoid using hydrogen peroxide as it can damage healthy cells and slow the healing process.
  3. After cleaning, gently pat the area dry with a clean towel. Keeping the spot dry is crucial for healing.
  4. Consider a topical treatment. A veterinary topical spray, ointment, or medicated cream that contains antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. Some commonly used treatments include hydrocortisone creams to help reduce itching and irritation and antibiotic ointments to prevent bacterial infections.

Once the spot has been treated, keeping your dog from further licking and scratching is key. Elizabethan collars (E-collars) or inflatable collars can prevent dogs from licking and worsening the wound.

If an underlying allergy or irritation is causing excessive scratching, talk to your vet about antihistamines, allergy medications, hypoallergenic diets, or flea treatments. If the hot spot worsens, spreads, or does not improve within a few days, consult your veterinarian. In severe cases, oral antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medications, or prescription-strength topical treatments may be necessary.

Preventing Canine Hot Spots

Preventing hot spots is possible with good hygiene, parasite control, and addressing any underlying issues. Regular grooming through brushing and bathing can remove loose fur and dirt and can prevent mats from forming in the coat.

Be sure to keep your dog as dry as possible, drying them thoroughly after swimming or bathing. A high velocity dryer or hair dryer can be helpful to reach the skin and drive off moisture that a towel cannot.

If your dog suffers from seasonal allergies, consult your vet about allergy medications or specialty diets. You can also supplement your pet’s diet with omega-3 fatty acids to support skin health.

If your pet is licking or chewing due to joint pain, work with your vet to find ways to manage and reduce pain to keep your companion comfortable.

Chew toys, food puzzles, walks, training, and interactive play can all help to manage boredom and stress-induced licking. For anxious dogs, work with your vet to find calming aids or medications to manage anxiety and reduce undesirable stress behaviors.

Hot spots can be frustrating to manage, but with early intervention and proper care, they can be effectively treated and prevented. By identifying the underlying causes, keeping your dog’s skin healthy, and addressing excessive licking and scratching behaviors, you can help your pet stay comfortable and free from recurring hot spots. If in doubt, or if things worsen, consult your veterinarian to ensure the best course of action for your furry friend.

Can Dogs Get Bird Flu?

It is unknown if dogs can get bird flu in any systematic way, but caution is warrented.
Although no dog cases of bird flu have been reported in the current outbreak, it makes sense to keep your dog away from birds. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

Bird flu is making the news a lot lately, and you may wonder if dogs can catch bird flu. Also called avian flu or referred to as H5N1, this virus has the potential to expand its horizons beyond birds to humans and other mammals. As of this writing, no dogs have become clinically ill or died from this recent strain of H5N1 bird flu.

However, dogs can become infected with “H3N8 or H3N2 influenza viruses, but those are different forms than the current outbreak of H5N1,” according to Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine.

A report from Ontario, Canada, in April 2023 confirmed the case and death of a dog with avian flu. In this case, the dog scavenged a dead goose who was infected.

Bird flu has been found in:

  • Dairy Cattle. Milk cows usually have a mild infection, but it can contaminate their milk.
  • Human dairy workers have gotten mild cases of this flu virus, primarily as eye infections, from working around infected cows.
  • Bird flu is commonly fatal in cats. Neurologic signs are generally the first clue that this is more than a standard respiratory infection and sudden death may be the first indication of a truly serious problem. Farm cats have been infected via raw milk, feral and outdoor cats have gotten infected from catching ill birds, and indoor only cats who have eaten raw foods made from infected poultry have died.
  • Foxes and Mink. In Finland, fur farms have lost large numbers of foxes and mink due to avian flu.

Managing your Dog’s Exposure to Bird Flu

While bird flu tends to run somewhat in cycles, it is spread by migrating birds. Obviously, you can’t put your dog in a bubble to prevent all potential bird exposure.

What you can do is sensible management:

  • Don’t feed raw milk or dairy products made from raw milk. While the processing to make cheese or yogurt might kill the H5N1 virus, no one knows for sure at this time.
  • Avoid feeding raw diets that contain poultry. While your dog might not die, he can get sick if the meat is contaminated and his feline buddy could very well die. Practice good food handling techniques if you feed any raw diet. Freezing and freeze drying do not kill the virus
  • Keep your dog away from dead or ill birds. Don’t frequent parks, ponds or any areas where large flocks of birds congregate. This is especially important in spring and fall when there are large migrations. This includes songbird migrations as well as waterfowl.

Remove bird feeders. This is especially important if there are reports of avian flu in your area. In those situations, consider taking feeders down for a while to discourage birds hanging out in your yard.

No Bird Flu Canine Vaccine

There is no vaccine for avian flu, and your dog’s canine flu vaccination will not provide cross protection. So far, there are no cases where a sick person gave a dog bird flu or vice versa, but the potential is there. The more cases of bird flu occur, the greater the likelihood of mutations that would allow the spread to more species.

Currently, work in the United States on bird flu has been greatly curtailed, but it has been considered a virus possible of causing a pandemic if mutations allow for more spread.

Are Dog Barking Deterrents Effective and Humane?

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Dog barking deterrents may keep a dog from barking, but they don't address underlying issues and and some are inhumane.
Usually, dogs bark for a reason. It’s up to you to figure out what it may be. Clues may include the time of day, what’s going on outside the house, or strange noises in or around your home. Credit: Ulkas | Getty Images

A dog’s bark is a natural form of communication, a way to alert us to danger, express excitement, or simply voice their presence. However, excessive barking can become a problem, disrupting neighbors, causing stress for owners, and even leading to housing and legal issues.

This has driven a market for dog-barking deterrents, ranging from simple whistles to more controversial methods. But which solutions are effective, and more importantly, which are humane?

Dog Barking Deterrents: Is Anti-Barking Surgery an Ethical Option?

One controversial measure that often surfaces is anti-barking surgery, also known as debarking or canine devocalization (or ventriculocordectomy). The procedure involves surgically removing or altering the dog’s vocal cords to reduce the volume or eliminate their bark entirely.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), “If behavioral and management interventions have failed to reduce barking, performing the procedure may prevent relinquishment or euthanasia.” However, AVMA points out that “devocalization reduces the noise associated with barking, but not the motivation or behavior. This could result in the impression that the issue has been resolved when the dog’s needs are still not being met.”

The AVMA adds that the surgery also brings “significant risks and complications, including pain, are associated with the surgery. “

The American Animal Hospital Association concurs. “Devocalization for inappropriate and excessive vocalization is often ineffective in achieving the desired results, can present risks to the animal, and can deprive canines of the ability to perform a normal behavior.”

Also, several states outlaw devocalization. According to Michigan State University’s Animal Legal and Historical Center, nontherapeutic devocalization is banned in Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Washington. And that number could increase. “Current trends point to more states banning nontherapeutic procedures. Public perceptions towards procedures like devocalization are changing, with more pet owners opposing the practice, according to the center.

Other Barking Deterrents: Muzzles, Whistles, and Collars

The question of cruelty is central to any discussion of barking deterrents. The answer isn’t a simple yes or no, as it depends on the specific method used and how it’s implemented. Some deterrents are designed to be aversive, meaning they create an unpleasant sensation to discourage barking.

Aversive options include anti-barking collars, citronella collars, ultrasonic devices, and muzzles. “Because these devices punish a normal behavior, we don’t recommend these because of the behavioral side effects,” Kohanski says. “Punishing a normal species behavior isn’t humane.”

According to a report by the National Library of Medicine (NLM), anti-bark collars, as a form of remote punishment to reduce the vocalization of dogs, are capable of delivering different forms of aversive stimuli such electric shocks or high-frequency sounds.

The shocks are triggered by vibrations from the dog’s larynx when the dog barks and punishment is delivered immediately. Also, because punishment delivered by collar and is not connected with the owner, it reduces the likelihood that the dog learns to fear or become aggressive towards its owner.

However, high-intensity shocks can cause skin lesions, chronic stress, and fear and pain responses, according to the NLM. For humane reasons, dog owners are likely to prefer less-punishing solutions to their dogs’ barking behavior. In one study, the NLM reports that dog owners preferred citronella-, or lemon-spray collars, which deliver a spray of citronella when a microphone detects barking, over shock collars, because they perceived them as more humane.

Should You Use a Dog Whistle to Stop Barking? Dog whistles, which emit high-frequency sounds inaudible to humans, are a popular and generally considered humane barking deterrent. The idea is that the sound startles the dog and interrupts its barking. However, Kohanski notes, “It’s easier to use a verbal cue like ‘quiet,’ though, as you don’t have to keep up with the whistle.”

Why Dogs Bark

“Because barking is a normal dog behavior, we want to be careful with how we address unwanted barking,” says  Nicole Kohanski, founder, dog behaviorist and trainer at Wiggle Butt Academy in Dallas, Texas. “When we punish normal, natural behaviors, we can get unwanted consequences like escalation, redirection, learned helplessness, or increased fear and anxiety.”

Before exploring deterrents, it’s important to understand why your dog is barking. Is it boredom? Anxiety? Territoriality? Pain due to health issues? Addressing the underlying cause is often the most effective way to curb excessive barking.

“I like to use the metaphor of a baby crying to help pet parents understand,” said Kohanski. “If our child was crying, we would use the communication as a clue to investigate what the baby needs. The same goes for our dogs. Because barking is communication, it’s the same type of signal.”

While it may seem like your noisy pup is just barking for the sake of barking, they always have a reason.

Knowing that your dog has a reason for barking helps resolve issues with compassion and understanding,” according to Cornell DogWatch. If you address the cause of the barking, you’ll be more successful and reduce your dog’s stress more than by using negative enforcement devices.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

Nicole Kohanski breaks barking reasons into four categories and subcategories:

Communication and Alerting
Alarm barking: Reacting to sudden noises or movement (e.g., doorbells, strangers).
Territorial barking: Warning of perceived intruders in their space.
Play barking: Expressing excitement and engagement during play.
Greeting barking: showing excitement when seeing familiar people or dogs.

Emotional Responses
Fear barking: Responding to something scary or unfamiliar.
Frustration barking: Occurs when a dog is restrained from something they want (e.g., leash reactivity).
Separation distress: Barking due to anxiety when left alone.
Attention-seeking barking: Trying to get interaction, food, or play from a person.

Physical and Environmental Factors
Boredom barking: Lack of mental and physical stimulation.
Excess energy barking: A way to release pent-up energy when under-exercised.
Medical-related barking: Pain, sound sensitivity, cognitive decline (especially in senior dogs), or hearing loss.

Learned Behaviors
Reinforced barking: The dog has learned that barking gets him what he wants (e.g., attention, food, or opening a door).
Breed tendencies: Some breeds are more vocal due to genetics (e.g., beagles, huskies, shelties).

Finding the Pattern for Barking

It’s helpful to look for patterns. Pay attention to when and where barking occurs. That is, is there a time of day when barking occurs? Maybe it’s an event that your dog monitors like the arrival of the mail or is there a context that results in more barking, such as your grandkids are visiting, says Cornell DogWatch.

If your dog barks at the window, look beyond the immediate area. Check any yards and roads that your dog can see. Listen for unusual sounds, even ones that seem distant. Remember that dogs have great hearing, and they might be reacting to rodents or a noise from a neighbor’s pet.

Gastropexy in Dogs

Gastropexy in dogs untwists a dog's stomach. It can be used to treat bloat, or to prevent it.
Bloat is more common in deep-chested dogs, like the German Shepherd, but it can happen to any dog. Credit: UH Photography | Getty Images

You may hear people talk about a surgery called a “gastropexy,” which is done if a dog has bloat. Some dog owners request a prophylactic gastropexy if they have a bloat-prone breed.

What is gastropexy? Gastropexy is a surgical procedure done to “tack” or attach the stomach to the body wall, so it can’t flip or twist. Bloat—a dangerous condition technically called “gastric dilatation and volvulus (GVD)”—is when the dog’s stomach fills with gas and twists. It is life-threatening. If the stomach flips, the odds of a good outcome go down dramatically. See “Bloat in Dogs Is Deadly.”

How Is Gastropexy Done?

Different surgical techniques are used to do gastropexy, but the goal is the same: Develop a permanent attachment of the stomach to the right abdominal wall to hold the stomach in place. This surgery reduces the likelihood of a bloat recurrence from 55% to 4%.

The original technique used stomach-wall flaps that were anchored to a rib. The attachments healed well, but there were often complications.

The current preferred technique fuses an incision in the gastric wall to a matching incision in the abdominal wall. This is a fast procedure, and while slightly weaker than the stomach-wall wrap version, is still very successful.

Twisted Stomach in Dogs

Many, if not most, gastropexies are performed as part of surgical correction for a bloat, especially if there has been a partial or total twist of the stomach. Your dog has had the torsion fixed, tissues including stomach, spleen, and intestines have been checked for any necrotic (dead) tissue, all vital signs are stabilized, and your veterinarian hopes to prevent a recurrence.

Prophylactic Gastropexy in Dogs

Many owners of bloat-prone breeds, such as Setters, Great Danes, German Shepherd Dogs, and even Dachshunds due to their deep chests, will elect to have a prophylactic gastropexy done to hopefully prevent a case of bloat or torsion ever happening. This can easily be combined with spay or neuter surgery, so your dog only has one round of anesthesia. While the procedure may not prevent basic bloat, it should keep the stomach from torsing.

Initially, there were concerns that gastropexy might interfere with normal gastrointestinal motility, but most experienced veterinary surgeons feel this is not the case.

Bloat Prevention in Dogs

An increased risk of bloat has been linked to:

  • History of bloat in a particular breed line (hints to a possible genetic predisposition)
  • Dogs who eat too fast (ingest excess air with the meal)
  • Using elevated feeding bowls (promotes ingestion of excess air with the meal)
  • Feeding dry food with heavy fat/oil content
  • Feeding a large meal vs. multiple smaller meals
  • Exercising on a full stomach
  • Drinking excessive amounts of water at one time

It’s smart to be careful about how your dog eats and drinks. Try to:

  • Feed small meals frequently.
  • Keep your dog quiet after eating.
  • If your dog has been running hard, limit his water intake to small amounts. So, let him drink, walk him a bit, let him drink again, etc.
  • Do not use elevated food or water bowls.
  • Try to minimize stress. Heavy panting may allow your dog to “gulp” a lot of air and predispose to bloat.

There is not much you can do about conformation, so breeds with narrow and deep chests will always have a higher risk. The World Association of Small animal Veterinarians says the lifetime risk for a large or giant breed dog developing GDV is 24% and 21%.

Know the initial signs of bloat, which include:

  • Pacing
  • Panting
  • Drooling
  • Trying to vomit but nothing coming up
  • Abdominal distension

Consider these signs of an emergency and head for the nearest veterinary emergency clinic and alert them that you are on your way with a possible bloat.

My 12-year-old male Belgian Tervuren was in surgery in less than an hour from the first sign I saw of bloat. Thankfully, the clinic was close by and when I got him there, they were ready. He came through from a partial torsion with flying colors and his gastropexy is well healed by now.

Your Dog is Aging. Should You Get A Puppy?

Introducing a puppy to an older dog can be done with patience and care.
Everyone wants to see a beautiful friendship between their old friend and their new pup. To get there, be patient! If you make sure your senior always has the option to escape the puppy—soon enough she may be seeking the puppy out. Credit: Kathy Callahan

As you see your beloved old dog’s muzzle beginning to gray, it’s natural to consider adding a puppy to the household. You’d love for the next generation to learn from the best, and honestly, you’re thinking it would soften the eventual loss to have another dog already in the family.

But balancing the needs of dogs at opposite ends of the age spectrum can be tricky. Sure, sometimes it’s immediate bliss, with the senior feeling revitalized and stepping up to mentor the puppy! But just as often, the elderly dog is miserable with all of the new bouncy energy in the house, and the humans end up feeling divided, and unable to give either dog what they need.

It’s hard to know beforehand where your individual household will fall on that spectrum, but it’s wise to be prepared—so you’re ready to jump in to make it a success after all. Here are some questions to consider as you ponder whether it’s the best time for you to add that puppy to the family. (For much more detail, check out our new book: Old Dog, New Dog: Supporting Your Aging Friend and Welcoming A New One.)

How Will You Protect Your Senior from Puppy Energy?

People reasonably assume that if their older dog has always played well with his buddies, he will love having a puppy to play with at home. But—unlike those solid adult dog friends—puppies have not yet developed their social skills. They constantly jump in faces, bite too hard, grab tender body parts, and pounce unexpectedly. They haven’t yet learned that other dogs don’t enjoy all of that.

Perhaps you’re thinking that your senior dog is just the one to teach the puppy canine manners and communication skills! Well, that can be true, to a point. But the best lessons are taught by a willing professor, not one acting under duress. Expecting your senior to babysit the rude toddler 24/7 is unfair. (After all, the dogs didn’t choose this living situation—the humans did.) If you want your senior to guide well, interacting with the puppy must be optional, or you’ll find your puppy gets the wrong lessons.

Puppies and senior dogs can get along, provided you tire out the puppy.
This is a rare sight: a calm 8-week-old pup earning the tolerance of an 11-year-old senior! Puppies always want the snuggle, but it’s the human’s job to make sure an older dog is okay with this invasion of space. In this case, Eli decided little Cheerio was just fine basking in his magnificence. Credit: Kathy Callahan

And here’s a key point that’s easy to miss: A typical senior has begun to decline physically. Mind you, even if you are a very caring owner, there may be diminishment that you are not aware of! They have anywhere from minor aches to obvious tender spots that they protect. They may have begun to lose some eyesight or some hearing. That means the incoming puppy missile is not just irritating but is, in fact, scary for them. That can result in unwelcoming behavior you never would have anticipated: “Oh my gosh, I’ve never seen her snarl like that!”

So, if you bring a puppy into the household, your first priority is to protect your senior’s peace—both physically and psychologically. If your older dog would normally relax into long naps, but is perpetually on guard because an enthusiastic, full-of-energy pup might barrel in at any moment, we’ve let her down. Just because she’s being “nice” about it—i.e., hasn’t growled, snapped, or bitten—doesn’t mean it’s OK! I often hear folks raving about how tolerant an old dog has been with a puppy, and I keep thinking, “Please don’t put that sweet old soul in a position where she constantly has to tolerate things.” She’s earned her peaceful, undisturbed days.

What can you do in the first weeks and months to set up both dogs for success?

  • Always provide an escape option for your senior.
  • Closely supervise the times the dogs have free access to each other, observing body language closely and cheerily redirecting when either of them is overwhelmed.
  • Never punish your old dog for growling; that’s good communication. If the puppy does not immediately adjust the behavior that elicited the growl, it’s time for you to step in to give your oldie a break by engaging the pup elsewhere.
  • When you can’t actively supervise, separate the dogs. Use pens, gates, crates, leashes, and a division of labor between the humans.
  • Build the dogs’ relationship by leading fun, joint, controlled activities—like a simple three-minute treat-filled training session or a 10-minute sniffari on leash. Dogs feel safer when a situation is predictable, so these moments create a positive association and a feeling of trust.
How to Introduce a Puppy to Your Senior Dog

Want your senior and your puppy to start off on the right paw? Don’t just wing it! Instead, the day before the puppy comes home, create a clear plan for the introduction.

Plenty of people will give you a detailed map of the one way that works. Hogwash. There are countless approaches that can succeed, as long as you commit fully to this principle:

  • AGENCY: Both dogs need to feel that they have the ability to give themselves the distance and time they need to assess the situation.

When you’re holding a puppy tight in your arms, or restraining your adult with a leash, it interferes with their sense of agency. That’s why the best introductions often happen through a see-through barrier (pen, fence, gate) when both dogs have four paws on the floor. That way they each have the option of moving closer to sniff or farther away to observe.

The other general key to success: Be patient. If there’s good body language on both sides—obvious interest, no retreats, loose bodies, play bows—fantastic! Now, though I know you want the answer to be “remove the barrier,” continue to wait! Sometimes, to go fast you have to go slow. The more time you give these two to get to feel comfortable with each other while that barrier is still up, the faster you’ll get to the time when it’s safe to remove that barrier.

(For much more detail, check out our book Old Dog, New Dog: Supporting Your Aging Friend and Welcoming a New One.)

How Will You Enrich (And Tire Out!) Your Pup?

The happiest senior/puppy matches are the ones where the puppy has plenty of outlets—other than the senior—for all that puppy energy and curiosity. There are so many options, and the best approach is to combine them all:

  • Playdates with well-matched puppies or puppy-friendly dogs are absolute game-changers.
  • Brain games. A three-minute training session—sit, touch, spin, through, down, come—does wonders for a bored pup looking for engagement. Throw half a dozen of those into your day and your pup will be less desperate to obsess over your senior in the constant search for fun.
  • Outdoor time. Half an hour spent outside fulfilling natural canine needs (such as sniffing and digging) does wonders.
  • Give your puppy a way to forage “naturally” for food; ditch the bowl and offer meals in the form of food scatters, stuffed Toppls, puzzle toys, and homemade challenges, like kibble hidden in crumpled paper stuffed inside the cardboard box that came today.
  • Goofy human play. Structured games like fetch can be great, but don’t forget to relax and have fun bonding with your puppy by offering play bows, rolling around, etc.

When all of that happens regularly, puppies come back to their senior nicely spent. They say hi to their sweet old dog sibling with a nice sniff, and flop down to relax. Now that’s a puppy an old dog can start to like! You might even finally see the senior actually approach the puppy: “Hey, um, I haven’t seen you much today…”

Can You Make Time for Puppy Socialization?

Brand new puppies who have a senior to toddle after usually take to the idea of a leash walk weeks before singletons do. That’s great!

However, the key role of the first few months of walks is to socialize the pup. This is how we carefully introduce him to the world, helping him feel comfortable with all of the new things he’ll encounter. To do that well, it’s critical to note the puppy’s reaction in the moment and dial the intensity of each experience up or down to meet him where he is. For example, let’s say you want to get your pup to feel comfortable around kids, so you’ve approached a fenced playground where kids are having loud, fast fun. If the puppy is interested and moving toward the sounds, wonderful! If he’s hanging back or turning away, though, you’ll want to stop at a comfortable distance and allow him to observe.

What does that mean for your senior? If your senior is an absolute angel out in the world, and can constantly model a calm, confident reaction to loud trucks, fast scooters, barking dogs, unpredictable kids, and will have the patience to stop, wait, and turn around a dozen times each walk, then your senior is a wonderful addition to your socialization adventures! But for most of us it’s too hard to socialize a puppy well with any other dog also in tow.

So, think about how you might make sure to find time to socialize your puppy well—without depriving your senior. Maybe every day as you head out with your puppy, the pattern is that the senior always gets a frozen stuffed food toy, or special cuddle time with another member of the household.

What about When Your Senior Declines?

It’s natural to wish for new beginnings and some fresh joy when you begin to feel sad that losing your senior is around the corner. A puppy can be just the thing, truly! While the demands of puppyhood are high, there is so much sweetness, laughter, and new life folded into that package.

However, let’s picture that you’re just able to make it work and you’re keeping all of the balls in the air. But then . . . your senior’s health begins to decline. How will you feel as you’re navigating meds and diagnoses and how to best support your old friend—when at the same time you’re trying to find the time and energy to potty-train and socialize a puppy? Maybe it’ll feel like too much. Or maybe switching gears between those two dear dogs at that time is just what the doctor ordered for you. It’s different for everyone. We just want you to take a beat and think it through before diving in.

Of course, we hope your senior has years and years of good time left! You may get all the way through puppyhood with a very healthy senior, and then when she nears the end you’ve got a lovely young adult dog at your side who has been fully shaped by your dear old friend. That’s the dream.

In the Aftermath of a Dog Attack

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Dogs often have a completely different experience at events that their owners regard as happy and fun.
Dogs often have a completely different experience at events that their owners regard as happy and fun. The presence of strangers, noise, high-value resources (such as grilled meats), alcohol, smoke, and countless other factors can produce intense fear and aggression in some dogs. Credit: skynesher, Getty Images

Whenever there is a high-profile dog attack, it seems everyone with a dog weighs in with their opinions about the dog, the dog’s origin, the owners, the specific situation, and the resolution of the event. People share their opinions, variously blaming each party (again, the dog, the place where the dog came from, the owners, the situation…), with almost no useful or accurate information about preventing or dealing with canine aggression resulting from the account or coverage of the event.

We were just presented with an opportunity to use an upsetting high-profile incident as an educational tool. Someone sent us a link to a March 17 Instagram post by Sean Lowe, an American TV reality show personality best known for his role on the 17th season of ABC’s The Bachelor. In the post, Lowe sat with his wife by his side and described two incidents involving their dog Moose, a 7-year-old Boxer the family adopted last Christmas (about three months ago). Lowe was badly bitten by Moose in attacks that occurred just a few hours apart; the dog has been removed from the home to an as-yet undisclosed disposition.

How can a dog who was a much-loved and -trusted companion to a family with three small children suddenly turn on and maul a member of that family—not once but twice? Though every dog owner and trainer alive will express their own opinions, the only people who are professionally qualified to find the answers are veterinary behaviorists, who have advanced education and training in medical and and behavioral diagnosis and treatment.

In an effort to help people understand what factors can contribute to seemingly uncharacteristic aggressive behavior in dogs, and offer information about how to appropriately and safely deal with a dog who has aggressively mauled a human or another animal, we asked a veterinary behaviorist for his professional insights. Chris Pachel is a doctor of veterinary medicine (DVM), a board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB), and a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (CABC). He is also the owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland, Oregon, where he and several other veterinary clinicians help people with their animals’ behavior problems.

A Thorough History Is Needed

One of the first things Dr. Pachel wanted us to understand is that an aggressive animal incident cannot possibly be explained from the victim’s or onlookers’ accounts alone. If he or another veterinary behaviorist was engaged by a dog’s owner in the aftermath of a traumatic incident, they’d start with the story of the incident, but then do a deep dive into the dog’s medical, training, and life history. Since Dr. Pachel did not have an opportunity to interview Lowe or examine the dog or the dog’s records, his comments here are speculation meant to demonstrate how complex it is to draw accurate conclusions about what really happened to precipitate the incident.

“It’s never as simple as the story that the witnesses tell,” Dr. Pachel says. “If I were seeing this dog clinically or working with a client on the on the heels of this event, there is much more information I’d need to make an informed diagnosis and recommendations for the treatment or outcome of the dog.”

How Veterinary Behaviorists View Aggressive Behavior

In almost every news story in both print and on TV, the phrase “vicious dog attack” was used in relation to Lowe’s incident. However, Lowe himself described Moose as a loving dog, ordinarily devoted to following Lowe around the house, accompanying him on walks and errands, and just wanting to be petted. But, shortly after a smoke alarm started blaring in Lowe’s home, Moose attacked his owner, causing serious injuries that require a trip to a hospital emergency room. The next day, after being locked out of the house overnight, the dog pushed through several doors and attacked his owner again—again causing serious injuries.

Animal behavior experts are unlikely to use the word “vicious” to describe a dog who usually presents as friendly and comfortable with humans but suddenly bites or even mauls a person. That word, which means deliberately cruel or violent, implies that the animal made a conscious, intentional decision to attack. That’s an improbable thing for a dog who is ordinarily so friendly that he has been trusted to sleep with and play with three small children daily for months.

In most cases where a dog’s behavior became quickly and drastically aggressive, there are precipitating events that exponentially increased the likelihood of such a behavior change—but the events are often evident only to canine behavior experts, or revealed in retrospect under questioning. In the case of Moose and Lowe, there was one obvious trigger—an “insanely loud” smoke alarm siren going off in the house, caused by smoke from an outdoor barbecue wafting into the house from open patio doors. However, it’s highly likely that there were several and perhaps many more factors that had pushed Moose into a stressed, hyper-aroused state well before the alarm went off.

“Trigger stacking” is the phrase that behaviorists and trainers often use to describe the phenomenon that occurs when dogs are exposed to a number of stressful stimuli in a relatively short period of time (from hours to days), leading to heightened anxiety, fear, and aggression. While in Moose’s case, the smoke alarm may have been the factor that tipped his behavior into aggression, the “stack” of factors contributing to Moose’s fall into aggression probably started hours earlier.

Contributing factors could have included anything from the doorbell going off earlier as the barbecue guests arrived, the mere presence of Lowe’s friends in the house, loud and/or boisterous voices, the proximity of high-value food (meats on the grill!), and/or the presence of alcohol and/or smoke from cigars or cigarettes. “All of those are potentially cumulative and sequential arousal triggers,” says Dr. Pachel.

In Lowe’s account, it was the blaring of the smoke detector that “flipped a switch” in Moose. But Dr. Pachel noted that in Lowe’s account of the incident, there was a progressive escalation in Moose’s behavior. Lowe said when the smoke siren began blaring, he grabbed a dish towel and was waving it at a smoke detector in an attempt to clear the air when Moose grabbed at his hand, prompting Lowe to tell the dog, “No!” Then, he described, Moose started biting at Lowe’s feet—a behavior that he stated that Moose had done before, but not this intensely. This prompted Lowe to use a more stern “NO!”—and, Dr. Pachel observed, “That was when the conversation changed.” At that point, Moose aggressively grabbed Lowe’s arm, biting deeply, and causing Lowe to feel that he was fighting his dog for his life.

Lowe was eventually able to wrestle Moose into the back yard and close the door; he was then transported to a hospital for treatment. It’s not explicitly described, but it sounds like Moose was left outdoors overnight. The next morning, Lowe described that his parents came to take Lowe’s three children to their home while the next steps for Moose were being decided. In Lowe’s account, as the children were getting into the grandparents’ car, Moose somehow pushed open the back door to the house, and ran through the house and out the front door, making a beeline for Lowe and attacking him again. This time, Lowe and his parents were able to restrain the dog until police and animal control officers were able forcibly take the dog into custody. (Moose’s current status has not been disclosed.)

When a dog is involved in a violent interaction, his body is often flooded with cortisol, adrenaline, and norepinephrine. These “fight or flight” chemicals make the dog’s heart beat faster, increasing his blood pressure and blood sugar, and giving him more strength and energy. This physiological reaction occurs in response to a perceived threat to survival—and takes some time to dissipate. After a trauma, the dog’s cortisol and adrenaline levels may remain high for many hours, keeping the dog in an abnormally reactive state for some time. After a violent incident, it’s critical to truly secure the dog and seek help from professionals (see sidebar, “What to Do Immediately After a Dog Attack.”)

What a Veterinary Behaviorist Would Investigate

Though commenters on Lowe’s social media feed and news articles about the attack all seem to have strong opinions about what caused Moose to behave aggressively, a veterinary behaviorist will first collect a lot more information about the dog and his history before making any recommendations.

“If this family came to me with this incident, before I’d make any speculation about the cause of the event or recommendations for the dog, I’d want any pre-adoption records that may be available, any medical history, any training history,” Dr. Pachel says. Of course, in the case of a 7- or 8-year-old dog who was adopted from a shelter just three months prior, “We’ve got seven to eight years of learning history that are a black box; we have no way of knowing if the dog has history of any significantly traumatic events or forceful, scary, or painful training.” That said, in his experience, he has often observed that dogs who have had a learning history or experiential history that included painful or aversive outcomes from confrontational interactions from humans will frequently respond with defensive aggression to a stern verbal directive.

“I don’t know how much time elapsed between the smoke alarm starting and Moose’s aggressive response, but it doesn’t sound like it was ‘immediate,’” says Dr. Pachel. “I have a strong suspicion that there was actually more of a back-and-forth conversation. The noise of the smoke alarm may have been the source of arousal but I suspect that the reprimand-based interaction in the face of all of the arousal and chaos that I’m presuming was happening may have been at least a contributing factor.”

Even lacking any pre-adoption history, a veterinary behaviorist would collect information from the dog’s owner about the time that they have spent together—and this often includes information that the owners are unaware could be relevant to the dog’s abnormal or aggressive behavior.

“I’d want to know everything about the three months the family spent with the dog,” Dr. Pachel says. “The playful foot-biting thing that Lowe mentioned; what did that look like? Were there any family situations that the dog seemed uncomfortable with? All of that information has the potential to dramatically change the story from the armchair speculation that runs rampant in situations like this.”

Sometimes, there are clues in small things that the dog’s owner never realized were a sign of the dog’s stress or discomfort. For example, Dr. Pachel says, “Many dogs have a negatively conditioned association to smoke alarms or other alarm-type sounds; was this dog sensitive to the microwave, electronic beeps, cell phone sounds, or any other low battery alarms? Did he have a pre-existing history of arousal with food, visitors, doorbells, having mom and the kids away? Some dogs are sensitive to the presence of alcohol! I’ve had patients in my practice who are accepting of all sorts of human behavior unless alcohol is involved—and then everything is escalated in terms of the dog’s perception of threat. Just the presence of alcohol is significantly relevant from the dog’s learning history standpoint.” (Note: In Lowe’s account, he did not mention whether alcohol was present at the barbecue.)

Being veterinarians, veterinary behaviorists also collect as much information as possible about the dog’s physical history. “We know from recent research on the comorbidity between chronic pain—even at a low level—and older-onset noise-sensitivity or noise-aversion patterns that pain can induce an anxiety component. Did the dog have any medical conditions that could have been contributing to chronic pain or stress? Even perfectly healthy dogs can have behavior issues, but dogs who are not metabolically and neurologically healthy and normal are even more likely to exhibit abnormal or aggressive behavior,” Dr. Pachel says.

What a Veterinary Behaviorist Can Offer After an Attack

Moose’s owners have not yet disclosed what Moose’s outcome was or will be, though some reports have him currently staying at a secure boarding facility. There is a wealth of advice from commenters recommending either that Moose should be euthanized or given a chance to live out his days elsewhere. Once again, we’d recommend that owners of a dog who did something similarly violent consult only with a veterinary behaviorist, whether to help make a decision regarding the dog’s future—or to deal with a decision that’s already been made.

After a thorough history and examination of the dog has been completed, a veterinary behaviorist’s report will include the professional’s opinion about the dog’s behavior, and discuss risk factors that affect the likelihood of achieving a safe and successful outcome for the dog and his owners. If the owner decides to keep the dog, the clinician will develop a treatment plan, typically addressing the dog’s physical management, behavioral interventions, diet, exercise, and medication. Little is left to chance—but the owner will be primarily responsible for seeing such a plan through and keeping the veterinary behaviorist apprised of the dog’s progress or lack thereof. The clinician can also give the owner information about alternatives to treatment, such as rehoming or euthanasia.

“I got into veterinary medicine because of animals, but I got into behavior because of the people,” says Dr. Pachel. “After an incident like this, it can really help a family to help them understand what happened. This can both alleviate their anxiety about all the ‘What ifs?’—such as, what if the kids had been home and he attacked one of them?—and potentially inform their future interactions with dogs. Sometimes in the aftermath of a traumatic event it’s highly therapeutic to bring the entire family into the dialogue to help them understand what happened, allow them to express some of their concerns and anxieties, and bring some closure to the event.”

What to Do Immediately After a Dog Attack

If you’ve ever witnessed a bloody dog fight or dog attack, you probably remember the scene as chaotic and disordered. People often respond with screams or yelling and try to counter the dog’s violence with violence of their own—and in the immediate aftermath of such an event, the focus is often on any injured humans or victim animals.

We’d like to suggest that the very first priority is securely containing the dog who attacked. Putting the dog outside is woefully insufficient; putting the dog in a room or garage is a little better, but be advised that dogs who have been through a traumatic event and are physiologically aroused—full of adrenaline—are extraordinarily strong and may react quite abnormally for hours or days. Dogs in this state may jump or climb fences they were previously safely contained in, or chew and claw through hollow-core doors they never before challenged. Getting them into a strong crate, a room with a solid door (and inaccessible windows), or a car should be the first priority.

While the wounded are being transported for medical evaluation and help, summon professional help to deal with the dog. If the attack happened during regular business hours, contact your local animal control office; after hours, one generally has to call the local police or sheriff’s department, who will decide whether they will summon the animal control officers on call or try to deal with the dog themselves. If at all possible, insist on help from animal control officers, who will be equipped with the experience and special tools that they can use to capture and extract a dog who is still hyper-aroused and aggressive. (Law-enforcement officers who lack experience with dogs are all too likely to shoot dogs—sometimes even the wrong dog.)

If professional help is not immediately available, be extremely cautious about approaching the dog over the next hours or even the next day. After a traumatic event, the dog may suffer from sky-high cortisol levels for days. Do not permit children or elderly or infirm people near the dog, and maintain the dog’s secure containment until he is either taken into custody by an animal control officer for a quarantine or until it’s clear that the dog is entirely himself again and can be safely quarantined at home (if appropriate). Note: It is not safe nor appropriate to quarantine a dog in a home with small children in it.

Once the wounded have been treated and the dog is secure, the next step is to confirm the dog’s rabies vaccination history, because the dog’s vaccination status will effect the treatment of anyone who got bitten. If you don’t have the dog’s complete medical history, get as much of the history as you can as quickly as you can.

Best Dog Food Toppers

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Dog food toppers can entice a dog to eat food when they're not eating and can add needed fiber and
The best dog food topper makes your dog’s meal more appealing, so he’s motivated to eat. Credit: Eva Blanco | Getty Images

One of the most common reasons pet owners use dog food toppers is to make mealtimes more exciting. Some dogs are more selective, while others may experience appetite loss associated with stress, illness, or aging. Adding a tasty topper can encourage them to eat while also providing some additional nutrients.

 

 

Whole Dog Journal’s Favorite Commercial Dog Food Toppers

Some popular palatability-enhancing toppers include bone broth, freeze-dried raw, and wet food or gravies. Not all toppers are made the same, of course, and some companies have types of toppers that may be the best topper for your dog. For Whole Dog Journal, the best dog food toppers, by type, are:

Best Pour-On Dog Food Toppers:

Both Open Farm and Stella & Chewy’s make toppers easy to use by offering premade bone broths that can be poured over your dog’s meals. You can make bone broth at home by boiling beef marrow bones or chicken feet in water (see more below).

Best Powdered Dog Food Topper:

Native Pet offers a good bone broth powder that can be added and rehydrated.

Best Freeze-Dried Dog Food Toppers:

Vital Essentials, Instinct, and Stella & Chewy’s offer good freeze-dried meal toppers. These toppers can be rehydrated with water or bone broth for additional hydration. Freeze-dried meat and organ blends can be added to your dog’s diet to help enhance palatability. The benefits of freeze-dried toppers include their long shelf-life, easy storage, and minimal processing.

Best Wet Toppers for Dog Food:

Wellness Bowl Boosters and The Honest Kitchen Pour Overs are good options for pre-made wet toppers. Wet toppers are also a fantastic choice for picky eaters, as they typically contain aromatic gravy.

When to Use Dog Food Toppers

Dog food toppers are an excellent way to enhance your dog’s meals, whether to add variety to mealtimes, provide additional nutrition, or support specific health conditions. When it comes to toppers, you can choose from simple, homemade additions like lightly cooked meats and vegetables to commercially available wet and freeze-dried toppers designed to provide targeted nutritional support.

Toppers can:

  • Improve palatability to entice picky eaters
  • Add nutritional benefits to your dog’s current food
  • Help your dog gain weight
  • Add whole foods to your dog’s diet
  • Enhance digestion
  • Support joint health
  • Provide skin/coat nutrients
  • Offer immune support

Dog Food Toppers in Your Kitchen

You may be surprised to find simple ingredients right in your kitchen may provide the support your dog needs in a simple topper:

Digestive support: Pumpkin puree and psyllium husk powder provide natural sources of fiber to aid digestion, relieve constipation, and help with loose stools. These ingredients promote regular bowel movements and support gut health by feeding beneficial bacteria living in the intestines. We have recipes for easy pumpkin dog treats!

Probiotics: Plain kefir or Greek yogurt, preferably lactose-free, is a great source of live probiotics that can help maintain a balanced gut microbiome. Fermented vegetables, such as sauerkraut (in small, unseasoned amounts), can also introduce beneficial probiotics to your dog’s diet.

Joint support: For senior dogs or canine athletes, green-lipped mussels contain omega-3 fatty acids and glucosamine to help reduce inflammation and support joint health and mobility. Another excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids are sardines or anchovies packaged in water. These small fish not only aid in joint support but also contribute to cognitive health and skin and coat health as well.

For an extra joint-health boost while also adding some moisture, bone broth is an excellent addition. To make it at home, simply source some marrow bones or chicken feet from your local butcher, add some water, a splash of apple cider vinegar, and cook in a slow cooker or pressure cooker. Bone broth is rich in collagen, which helps support joint, skin, and coat health.

Skin and coat: Omega-3 fatty acids are crucial for maintaining a healthy coat and skin. In addition to sardines and green-lipped mussels, flaxseed and chia seeds can provide plant-based omega-3s. Adding a bit of flaxseed oil or a sprinkle of ground flaxseed or chia seeds to your dog’s meal can support skin health, reduce itchiness, and enhance coat shine. Eggs, particularly their yolks, are a fantastic addition. Egg yolks are rich in biotin, essential fatty acids, and amino acids, which help maintain healthy skin and coat as well as overall health. However, eggs should be lightly cooked to improve protein digestibility and neutralize avidin, a compound in raw egg whites that binds to biotin and interferes with its absorption.

Immune support: Blueberries, apples, and strawberries are packed with antioxidants that help combat oxidative stress and support the immune system. When feeding fruit, it is important to do so in moderation and avoid toxic options such as grapes and raisins. Vegetables, such as carrots, steamed broccoli, and steamed or canned green beans are an excellent source of vitamins, fiber, and can assist pets who are on a weight-loss journey feel satiated for longer.

Additional protein: Muscle and organ meats are fantastic, palatable additions to your dog’s meals. Chicken and turkey offer lean sources of protein, and liver is an exceptionally dense organ meat packed with iron and B vitamins. When sourcing meat for your dog, opt for lean options such as poultry, lean cuts of beef, rabbit, and venison to avoid excess fat intake that can lead to stomach upset and pancreatitis. Avoid giving your pet fat drippings from cooking things like bacon, chicken, pork, or beef, as they contain high levels of fats that can cause digestive upset.

Dog Food Topper Warnings

When feeding toppers to your pet, remember that all treats and toppers combined should not exceed 10% of their daily intake. Feeding toppers and treats in excess can lead to nutritional imbalances, toxicities, or deficiencies. Introduce new toppers slowly to prevent digestive upset and be sure to check the ingredients to ensure there is not excess sodium or sugar added.

Dog food toppers are a fantastic way to enhance meals by improving smell, taste, adding moisture, and supporting specific health needs. Whether using wet food toppers, freeze-dried toppers, or homemade additions, incorporating the right foods can boost your pet’s interest in mealtimes and their overall well-being. By choosing high-quality ingredients and using toppers appropriately and in moderation, you can provide your pet with a more enjoyable and nutritious dining experience!