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Home Treatment for Parvo May Prevent “Economic Euthanasia”

When experienced breeder Barbara Sorg noticed that Winks, one of her five 8-week-old puppies, was listless, not eating, and by nightfall was suffering from diarrhea, she hustled him off to her long-time veterinarian the next morning, a Tuesday.

The vet suspected that Winks had not tolerated the dewormer he’d been given Sunday. Although he had never left her property and had no suspected exposure, Sorg asked that he be tested for deadly parvovirus; her veterinarian discounted the possibility. Wednesday he was doing much worse. By Thursday, Winks had lost a third of his body weight along with his will to live. The SNAP test her vet finally administered confirmed that he was a victim of parvovirus. Sorg made the heartbreaking decision to euthanize him.

The cost of saving the lives of these four puppies, who were infected with parvovirus, with intensive care in a veterinary hospital, was more than $16,000. Owners who can’t pay for this gold standard treatment now have an often-effective option other than euthanasia.

“He was just done,” she says.

By Friday morning, all his surviving siblings had begun to vomit; fecal testing confirmed that they were also infected.

 What was a dog owner of ordinary means to do?

The Scourge of Economic Euthanasia
When parvovirus first appeared in dogs the late 1970s, the new disease killed nearly every puppy and dog it infected. While researchers quickly got to work developing effective vaccines, veterinarians began evolving the supportive treatment protocols that would enable the majority of patients that were diagnosed and treated promptly to fight the viral infection, survive, and recover.

The standard of supportive care for “parvo puppies” is hospitalization with 24-hour veterinary care that includes intravenously administered fluids, antibiotics, anti-nausea medication, and electrolytes. The dogs who respond to treatment generally recover well enough to go home for continued nursing in five to seven days. Animals diagnosed, hospitalized, and treated before they are critically dehydrated and shocky stand an 80 to 90 percent chance of survival. That’s the good news from 30-plus years of veterinary experience.
The bad news: the cost of treating a single puppy or dog for parvovirus generally starts at around $1,200 in less expensive veterinary markets, and can rise to more than $5,000.

Owners of limited means with brand-new and very sick puppies, shoestring rescue groups, or breeders with four (or eight or twelve) vomiting pups and two kids in college are often offered two choices by veterinarians: A bill they cannot possibly pay, or “economic euthanasia.” Many find their hands forced to the latter option. The death rate from parvovirus among infected puppies and dogs therefore remains very high, even though “gold standard” supportive treatment is very effective at helping patients whose owners can afford it to survive.

An Effective Alternative?
A new treatment protocol that has been tested at Colorado State University is meant to correct that tragedy. Researchers at the CSU College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences Veterinary Teaching Hospital conducted a clinical study of an outpatient parvovirus treatment protocol that is aimed at permitting owners – including shelters and rescues – to treat their sick dogs at home, under veterinary monitoring and supervision. The study was funded by Pfizer Animal Health, which produced the antibiotic and anti-nausea drugs that were tested. (Pfizer recently spun off its animal health division and renamed it Zoetis.)

The protocol was tested on dogs and puppies whose owners were unable to afford “gold standard” hospital care at private practices in Colorado, and were facing the prospect of economic euthanasia. The 40 dogs were randomized into a control group that received the standard in-patient treatment, and a study group that were cared for by veterinary students in a simulation of outpatient supportive care.

After initial stabilization on admission, the 20 dogs in the outpatient study group received a single subcutaneous injection of the long-acting antibiotic Convenia (cefovecin), a daily subcutaneous injection of the anti-nausea drug Cerenia (maripotant), and subcutaneous hydration of a balanced electrolyte fluid solution three times a day. Dogs were syringe-fed as soon as they could keep food down, and given glucose syrup by mouth. Subcutaneous injections and subcutaneous fluid replacement are not difficult procedures, and most owners who are willing can learn to administer them effectively.

The results were dramatic. Ninety percent of the dogs in the control group survived with “gold standard” care administered at a veterinary teaching hospital, which is in line with usual expectations. The exciting news: 80 percent of the dogs in the study group survived, thanks to the new protocol, which can be administered by a non-veterinarian who is available for around-the-clock nursing care and willing to give injections. 

(One puppy worsened under the study protocol and was moved to the control group, where he received the conventional intensive care treatment and recovered.) Eighty percent is not as good as the hospital protocol’s 90 percent, but significantly better than the 10 percent survival rate of untreated animals, and the 0 percent survival rate of dogs who are euthanized due to lack of funds for treatment.

The cost of the drugs and fluids used in the outpatient study group is about $200 per animal, according to Lauren Sullivan, DVM, DACVECC, the principle investigator for the parvo study. However, these are not the only treatment costs that a pet owner will incur; Dr. Sullivan stresses that all the dogs in the study were stabilized with intravenous fluids and had their electrolytes evaluated before being placed in the study or control group. Owners will have to pay for a SNAP test to diagnose the disease, daily monitoring, and further testing to determine when the dog has ceased to be infectious after recovery. These costs will vary depending on the location and type of veterinary practice, but at the CSU hospital, Dr. Sullivan estimates that the total cost of treatment would be about $400. Contrast that with $2,000 to as much as $5,000 for the gold standard hospital treatment that she says would be her choice if her own puppy contracted parvo tomorrow.

Dr. Sullivan also stresses that the outpatient protocol may not be effective for the most vulnerable patients – especially young puppies of small breeds, who are less able to maintain cardiac stability and blood sugar levels, and require aggressive monitoring of both variables.

The Cost of No Options
Barbara Sorg’s four surviving puppies are fortunate little tykes. Yes, all four got treatment, and all four recovered.

While Sorg confronted the reality that she could not front the cash to treat Winks’ siblings, and prepared for a gut-kick of a decision, help came from unexpected quarters.

The expectant owners of one pup told her to start treating him – they would pay what it took to save the pup that they had never met. A family member offered her a loan, to be repaid when she could. Her friends in the agility community began an online fundraiser that was publicized on social media, and taken up by both agility competitors and members of her breed community. Not only friends and colleagues, but also strangers contributed toward the puppies’ care.

Barbara Sorg may not have had the cash up-front to save her puppies, but as a member of caring dog-sports and breed communities, she had unexpected resources – resources not available to a less-connected pet owner, or even many nonprofits. Sorg calculates that the cost to diagnose and treat all the pups in-hospital (a different clinic than the one that missed the diagnosis) has topped $16,000 – including the charges for Winks, the one who didn’t make it.

That new veterinarian told her that 90 percent of the clients whose dogs receive a parvovirus diagnosis at that clinic end up euthanizing their pets.

What’s Next?
The CSU study has been presented to the veterinary community and its protocol is online for any interested veterinarian to use with clients who cannot afford hospitalization, but the study has not yet undergone peer-review and journal publication.

It’s important to note that this initial study does not address one of the most important factors in any medical treatment – compliance. The “outpatient” protocol was administered by veterinary students in a supervised, clinical setting. Dr. Sullivan would like to see larger studies that examine the effectiveness of the protocol when owners administer it in their homes.

Pet owners, breeders, and shelter and rescue personnel will vary in their discipline and compliance, and the variation in their diligence will affect the outcome of treatment. Dogs treated with the outpatient protocol still require 24/7 nursing care. Owners who must work or attend to other commitments will be unable to provide this level of attention. Shelters will need to train staff or volunteers and set up shifts in order to ensure continuous care and maintain infection control.

Dr. Sullivan says that she has seen a lot of interest in the outpatient protocol from veterinarians serving impoverished communities, where a combination of chronic low vaccination rates and cash-poor owners means that parvo death rates are persistently high. Veterinarians on reservations and who do international work, who serve poor urban and rural communities, or who just have a middle-class client who cannot front the cost of a new Lexus to save a litter of 10 puppies, are “in the trenches” and want to be able to offer an effective alternative to nothing to their clients who love their dogs. – Heather Houlahan

Heather Houlahan lives on a small farm near Pittsburgh, where she has recently learned that one of the things one should not do while raising her SAR partner’s litter of beloved puppies is research and write about parvovirus.

More Info: The Colorado State protocol can be found here

Using Veterinary Acupuncture as a Complementary Healing Method

Cornelia Guest doesn’t have a veterinary degree, but she does have decades of experience caring for animals. The renowned New York socialite, author, philanthropist, and businesswoman, the creative force behind a very successful line of designer vegan handbags, grew up riding horses and has always had a number of canine companions (she currently has nine!).

Madeline Yamate, DVM, uses traditional “dry needle” acupuncture, electroacupuncture, aquapuncture, and other Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) modalities in her practice, the Center for Integrative Animal Medicine, in Davis, California. Photo by and courtesy of jill quan, ciamvet.com

Guest has always had a passion for both animals and natural healthcare. She chooses natural healing modalities over Western pharmaceutical intervention whenever possible – for herself and her dogs. Guest entrusts the care of her nine dogs to Babette Gladstein, VMD, owner of

Animalacupuncture.net in New York, New York. Dr. Gladstein says she has treated Guest’s dogs for a variety of health conditions, including growing pains in her young Newfoundland, Cash; bladder stones in her German Shepherd Dog, Belinda; and arthritis in her 18-year-old West Highland Terrier, Arthur.

“I’ve tried many different veterinary modalities for my dogs, and acupuncture has been by far the most effective,” Guest says. “I’ve never seen the magic that happens with Chinese medicine – especially acupuncture – occur with conventional veterinary care.”

Guest is not alone in her endorsement of this ancient healing practice. The American Veterinary Medical Association’s (AVMA) House of Delegates approved veterinary acupuncture as an alternative and complementary modality in 1996, stating that it is an “integral part of veterinary medicine.” Its popularity among both pet owners and veterinarians has steadily increased.

“The increased demand for veterinary acupuncture mirrors its rise in popularity among humans,” says Deborah Prevratil, executive director of the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS), which offers advanced acupuncture certification for veterinarians. IVAS has trained more than 6,000 veterinarians worldwide in animal acupuncture since its inception in 1974, and Prevratil says its membership has grown steadily in the past decade, with about 1,800 veterinary members today.

Acupuncture needles come in varying thicknesses, though most are much slimmer than needles used for “shots.” They are usually made of stainless steel, and are sterile (made for a single use). Here, Dr. Yamate uses a plastic guide tube to keep the needle from bending while it is inserted with the tap of a finger. Photo by and courtesy of Jill Quan, ciamvet.com

Simon Flynn, executive director of the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture (AAVA), IVAS’s United States affiliate, also reports a growth in membership within the past decade. Flynn says that in 2012, the AAVA’s membership consisted of approximately 940 veterinary acupuncturists, compared with about 680 members in 2002.

“Many people view their pets as part of the family and want them to derive the same benefits from acupuncture that they’re experiencing with their own health, which is helping to drive this growth,” Flynn says.

Brian Husbands, DVM, a board certified veterinary oncologist (DACVIM) and certified veterinary acupuncturist (CVA) with BluePearl Veterinary Partners in Minneapolis, Minnesota, has seen similar rates of growth in his practice. “As a scientist, I did a lot of research before deciding to become certified in veterinary acupuncture,” Dr. Husbands says. “I’m glad I did, because my patients are benefitting tremendously.”

A BRIEF HISTORY OF ACUPUNCTURE

Acupuncture is one of the oldest recorded forms of healing. “Acupuncture” literally means to “puncture with a needle.” Acupuncturists insert very fine, solid needles made of stainless steel (some may be gold plated, or have handles that are wrapped with copper wire) into the skin at specific points on the body, to stimulate and create a physiological change.

In traditional acupuncture, only needles are used to stimulate the acupuncture points. Today, many practitioners also use electroacupuncture, wherein needles are inserted in the patient’s body in the usual way, and then attached by light wires to a machine that generates tiny electrical pulses. The frequency and intensity of the impulse delivered is adjusted depending on the condition being treated. Among the advantages of electroacupuncture are increased effectiveness of treatment and potentially fewer treatments required. Obviously, this is a modern innovation!

Acupuncture was developed thousands of years ago in China as a component of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), which also involves natural healing practices such as herbal therapies and nutritional (food) therapy. The Nei Jing, the seminal Chinese textbook on TCM, which contains 81 chapters on acupuncture, was compiled between about 305 and 204 BC, but it wasn’t until more than 2,000 years later that acupuncture made its way West.

Acupuncture gained a serious boost of credibility in the U.S. when it became the topic of the National Institutes of Health (NIH) Consensus Development Program. Initiated in 1977, the goal of the Consensus Development Program is “to consolidate, solidify, and broadly disseminate strong evidence-based recommendations for provider practice.” Consensus Development Conferences are developed when there is a strong body of evidence about the topic, but the information has not been translated into widespread clinical practice.

In November 1997, the 12-member review panel and 25 additional experts from a number of medical fields, presented scientific data on acupuncture’s efficacy to a conference audience of 1,200. According to the panel:

“Findings from basic research have begun to elucidate the mechanisms of action of acupuncture, including the release of opioids and other peptides in the central nervous system and the periphery and changes in neuroendocrine function. Although much needs to be accomplished, the emergence of plausible mechanisms for the therapeutic effects of acupuncture is encouraging.”

Based on its findings, the panel concluded that:

“There is sufficient evidence of acupuncture’s value to expand its use into conventional medicine and to encourage further studies of its physiology and clinical value.”

Acupuncture’s mode of action differs depending on whether you’re speaking with a practitioner trained in traditional Chinese medicine or a Western allopathic physician. The results, however, are the same.

Like most patients, Wyatt finds his acupuncture session extremely relaxing. Many dogs fall fast asleep during their treatments, even if they come into the clinic excited or anxious. Owners who are nervous about the needles also quickly learn that their dogs scarcely seem to notice their insertion.Photo by and courtesy of Jill Quan, ciamvet.com

According to the principles of TCM, all living beings are imbued with a vital universal energy, called “chi” (sometimes spelled “qi” but in any event pronounced “chee”). Chi flows in a precise manner along a network of channels, or meridians, that run deep within the body and connect to the major organs and systems. Meridians are mapped, however they do not exist in the physical sense, like the circulatory or nervous systems. Meridians are an invisible, energetic network that transports chi to every part of the body.

Dogs have 12 regular meridians, which run parallel in pairs along opposite sides of the body and connect to specific organs:

– Lung

– Large Intestine

– Stomach

– Spleen

– Heart

– Small Intestine

– Bladder

– Kidney

– Pericardium

– Triple Heater/San Jiao

– Gall Bladder

– Liver

They also have two special meridians, the Conception Vessel and the Governing Vessel, which are unpaired single meridians that do not connect to specific organs.

The Conception Vessel receives and regulates all the chi of the yin (soft, relaxed, feminine) energy meridians. It begins internally, with its first exterior point beneath the dog’s anus, and runs along the ventral midline of the dog’s body (closest to the abdomen), ending at a point on the lower lip. This vessel is important to all reproductive functions.

The Governing Vessel also begins near the base of the tail and runs the length of the dog’s body along the dorsal midline (closest to the back), ending at a point between the upper lip and gums. The Governing Vessel receives and regulates the chi of the yang (fiery, solid, masculine) meridians.

Each point on each meridian corresponds to a specific function. Points are labeled according to a numerical system in order to identify their exact location. GV 14, for example, represents the fourteenth point along the Governing Vessel, while LI 7 represents the seventh point on the Large Intestine. “This numerical shorthand enables practitioners to quickly and easily identify the points they have treated,” says Sandi Leonard, DVM, owner of Veterinary Alternatives in Kansas City, Missouri.

Although the regular meridians share names associated with Western-based organs, their function does not necessarily coincide with, and is not limited to, that organ. The spleen, for example, serves as an immune organ in Western medicine, but in acupuncture it is associated with transporting matter (such as food and drink) through the body, transforming it into chi, and moving that chi around the body as needed. “The connection between meridians and anatomical systems is complex, and acupuncture specialists trained in TCM spend many hours learning about these relationships,” Dr. Husbands says.

As chi flows along the meridians, its energy nourishes every cell in the body. “To maintain optimum health, chi must be able to flow freely. When chi becomes unbalanced or blocked, illness results,” Dr. Leonard says.

Acupuncture points are specific spots where the meridians surface just under the skin. By inserting needles into these points, practitioners can manipulate chi and unblock or rebalance it, stimulating the body to heal itself.

Western Interpretation
While Western medicine does not acknowledge the presence of chi or meridians, numerous scientific studies verify acupuncture’s benefits, including:

– Reducing inflammation. “Acupuncture increases blood flow, which stimulates blood cells that fight inflammation,” says Dr. Leonard.

– Creating a sense of well being by increasing circulating levels of serotonin and endorphins, neurotransmitters responsible for altering mood and brain chemistry. “These ‘feel-good’ chemicals are responsible for a wide range of positive emotions, including relaxation, happiness and even euphoria, while low levels are associated with sadness and depression,” Dr. Gladstein says.

– Reducing pain. The endorphins and serotonin produced during acupuncture also inhibit pain responses in the brain, while increased blood flow releases nitric oxide (NO), a chemical compound recognized for its analgesic (pain-relieving) and anti-inflammatory properties.

– Stimulating and enhancing the immune system, with measurable effects, such as improvements in leukocyte counts, and enhancement of leukocyte phagocytosis.

– Alleviating nausea. “Acupuncture supplies energy to nerves that affect the gastrointestinal tract, which in turn promotes good GI function,” says Dr. Husbands.

– Veins, arteries, and nerves are bundled together throughout the body, explains Dr. Gladstein. When you excite specific acupuncture points with needling, you accelerate their electrical conductivity, which increases blood flow and releases chemicals that promote healing.

Best Applications For Acupuncture
There are acupuncture points to treat just about any condition, from reviving a dog in shock to stimulating cranial nerves that enhance appetite.

Acupuncture is most commonly used to treat:

– Muscle strains, sprains, ligament/tendon inflammation/tears

– Behavioral disorders

– Allergies

– Dry eye

– Gastrointestinal issues such as IBD, vomiting, or diarrhea

– Muskuloskeletal diseases such as arthritis, back problems, and hip dysplasia

– Nausea related to chemotherapy

– Neurologic conditions

– Reproductive issues

– Respiratory conditions

– Skin issues

– Stress

– Urinary conditions

In his oncology practice, Dr. Husbands uses acupuncture to improve the quality of life of patients undergoing chemotherapy. “Acupuncture is extremely effective at reducing nausea and vomiting related to chemotherapy, and to stimulate the appetite. So, while it may not cure the cancer, it can certainly make the dog’s life a lot more comfortable.”

Acupuncture can sometimes work in cases where Western medicine has thrown in the towel.

In 2006, Dr. Leonard used acupuncture to dramatically alter the fate of a German Shepherd Dog named Piper. At just 21/2 years old, Piper was an agility and herding dog with a bright competitive future ahead of her. But then she began having grand mal seizures. “It was very frightening and traumatic in the beginning. There was no history of seizures in her blood line or rhyme or reason for it,” says Steve Grace, Piper’s owner. He and his wife took Piper to conventional veterinarians, who diagnosed her with epilepsy.

The veterinarians prescribed phenobarbital and potassium bromide, but even on the medications, Piper continued to suffer from violent cluster seizures about every 10 days. “A veterinary neurologist told us that if we got the seizures down to three weeks apart, it would be a miracle,” Grace says. “Dr. Leonard was treating our dog Keiko for arthritis at the time, so we decided to have her try acupuncture on Piper. It was so bad that we were considering putting Piper down, so we figured we had nothing to lose.”

Dr. Leonard’s initial protocol began with twice-weekly treatments. Within a few weeks, Grace says the severity of Piper’s seizures decreased from a 9.5 to a 4 or 5 on a scale of 10, and the frequency reduced to once per month.

After a year and a half, Piper’s seizures decreased to a severity of about 3 and occurred approximately once every 45 days. The treatments were scaled back to every two weeks, and Piper remained on her medication. “The longer Piper was treated, the less intense the seizures became and the more time that passed in between,” Grace says. After a couple of years of acupuncture, Piper’s seizures decreased to once every 6 months, then once per year.

Piper recently passed away from cancer at age 11. She had not suffered from a seizure in more than two years.

Consult with a veterinary acupuncturist to determine if treatment is right for your dog, advises Dr. Gladstein. “Acupuncture is not a ‘one-size-fits-all’ modality. It is completely unique to the individual. Only after a thorough examination by a trained veterinarian can you determine if the treatment plan, cost and expected results are right for you and your dog.”

Dr. Sandi Leonard performs acupuncture on Piper, a German Shepherd Dog who developed idiopathic epilepsy. Medication reduced the frequency of her seizures, but once regular acupuncture sessions were added to her treatment protocol, the seizures reduced dramatically in severity and even more in frequency.

An immediate call might be warranted if your dog:

– Battles emotional issues such as fear or anxiety

– Experiences nausea related to chemotherapy

– Has a sudden-onset problem such as a muscle injury or acute nausea

– Needs a general boost to his immune system

– Suffers from side effects of a chronic illness, such as vomiting or diarrhea

– Takes long-term medications to treat inflammatory conditions such as chronic arthritis or gastrointestinal issues. “Acupuncture can help minimize or in some cases eliminate the need for prescription drugs and greatly improve the quality of life for these dogs,” says Dr. Leonard.

Contraindications
When shouldn’t a dog receive acupuncture? While acupuncture is considered one of the safest healing modalities for people and animals, there are a few instances in which it should be avoided or used with extreme caution:

– Bleeding disorders. “Acupuncture needles are inserted only superficially, however there still is a chance of bleeding or bruising, which is accentuated in dogs with bleeding disorders,” advises Dr. Leonard.

– Cancerous tumors. Since acupuncture improves blood flow, needling through or around a tumor could provide it with energy it needs to grow. “You can still do acupuncture on the patient as long as you stay far from the tumor,” says Dr. Husbands.

– Pregnant animals. Caution should be used to avoid stimulating premature labor.

– Skin infections. Needling an infected area could spread the infection.

Selecting a Practitioner
Deborah Prevratil of IVAS advises selecting a practitioner who has been certified by, or at least completed training through, one of the three main certifying organizations: the Chi Institute, IVAS, or the Medical Acupuncture for Veterinarians (MAV) program offered by the Colorado Veterinary Medical Association (see “Resources,” right).

Veterinarians trained by IVAS undergo 160 or more hours of acupuncture study and must pass written and practical exams, Prevratil says. “This training ensures the practitioner possesses a sound understanding of acupuncture principles, acupuncture points, and diagnostic techniques.”

Dr. Husbands points out that when practiced by a trained veterinary acupuncturist, the complication rate is very low, about 0.5 percent.

“Several papers in human medicine indicate that the only complications associated with acupuncture arise from unskilled practitioners,” he says. “This is the same with veterinary medicine, which is why it’s so important to choose someone who has taken the time to obtain specialized training.” He warns against allowing any non-veterinarian to practice acupuncture on an animal, regardless of state laws. “Even when practicing complementary medicine, you need to have a deep understanding of animal physiology so you can diagnose and treat the pet holistically.”

What can you expect?
Most dogs tolerate acupuncture well. “These are very tiny needles, so most of the time the dog doesn’t even notice when they’re inserted,” Dr. Leonard says. Dogs often relax and might even fall asleep during the treatment; however, some dogs will fidget, especially during the initial visit when they are unsure of what’s happening.

Veterinarians typically insert multiple needles into various acupuncture points. The number of needles, specific points treated, and duration of the treatment depend upon the individual dog and the condition being treated. Husbands says his average patient receives between 8 and 20 needles per visit, which remain in between 5 and 20 minutes.

Since relaxation is essential, the veterinary clinic may provide a special acupuncture room designed to promote a sense of calm – for both the animal and owner. BluePearl’s acupuncture treatment room includes carpeting, a couch, and cocktail lights that dim to create a soothing glow. Owners remain with their dog during treatment and are instructed to keep their dog sitting or lying. “We give them a bell to ring in case they need assistance,” Husbands says. “So far, no one has rung the bell.”

Other veterinary acupuncturists, such as Drs. Gladstein and Leonard, create the ultimate relaxation experience with in-home visits.

The most common side effect of acupuncture is relaxation. Some dogs experience temporary minor soreness from the needles, which Dr. Gladstein says subsides quickly. Risk of infection is extremely low, since sterile disposable needles are used.

Animals with acute issues, such as an injury or sudden nausea, typically require fewer treatments than those with chronic conditions. “Dogs who have rather sudden onset of a problem tend to respond really quickly and readily to acupuncture,” says Dr. Husbands. “Patients with problems that have been going on weeks to months will still benefit, but it might take longer.”

Treatment plans vary depending upon the individual dog and the condition being treated. Expect to begin with weekly or bi-weekly treatments that will taper down to a less frequent maintenance level as the dog improves. Older animals typically require more frequent treatments because their bodies break down endorphins – essential in fighting pain – more quickly than younger dogs.

Conventional medicine often condemns acupuncture as providing little more than a placebo effect, but Leonard points out that such criticism does not apply with animals, since animals don’t “know” they are supposed to feel better. “My first acupuncture patient was a 200-pound Mastiff who couldn’t walk due to a lame leg,” she says. “After about three months of treatment she was effortlessly walking up stairs, and you couldn’t tell which was the bad leg. This dog certainly didn’t ‘think’ herself better.”

Dr. Gladstein agrees. “If you understand neurology and how the various aspects of the body interrelate and ‘communicate,’ acupuncture makes perfect sense. Even thousands of years ago, the Chinese had it together.”

Optimizing Your Puppy’s Brain

puppies in play pen

Cute is not the first word you reach for when describing newborn puppies. Born unable to hear or see, with smushed-in faces and twitchy little bodies, they look for all the world like diminutive aliens. Detached and distant visitors from another planet, they are in their own orbit, apparently seeking only warmth, milk, and the rough caress of their mother’s tongue. Nothing, of course, could be further from the truth.

From the time they are born, puppies are gathering, processing, and synthesizing huge amounts of information from the world around them. And although it is pretty well accepted that puppies need intense socialization when they leave their human caretakers for their forever homes, relatively little is said about the importance of thoughtful, consistent exposure to new stimuli in their first eight weeks of life.

Some forward-thinking breeders, however, have concluded that while temperament is certainly hereditary, early experience can dramatically modify brain development, stress tolerance, stability, and reactivity. Even the fundamentals of potty training, attentiveness to a handler, and a recall can be programmed at what some might consider an absurdly young age.

Longtime judge, breeder, and lecturer Pat Hastings of Aloha, Oregon, author of Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development (Dogfolk Enterprises, 2004), has seen firsthand the power that environment can exert over genetics.

“I believe very strongly that you are born with your temperament, but you can modify behavior,” she says.

“I really believe that with puppies, nurture is much more important than nature. I just see so much of it.”

Hastings is sought after for her puppy evaluations, in which she assesses whole litters of eight-week-olds, not just for conformation (physical structure) but also temperament. A case in point is a litter of Parson Russell Terriers she recently evaluated for a breeder who spends a great deal of effort interacting with and socializing her puppies.

In addition to her eight puppies, the breeder also brought one along that was three days older and had all the genetic background to be identical to her other puppies: The breeder had bred the puppy’s mother, and the sire was all her pedigree, too. But the puppy had been whelped and reared by someone else, and hadn’t been exposed to the same handling or socialization that her well-adjusted puppies had. “You would think it was a different breed,” Hastings says.

While reputable breeders breed with a specific goal in mind – their next great show dog or brood bitch, that future master hunter or agility star – an overarching priority should be producing stable, tractable temperaments, regardless of a puppy’s final destination.

“It’s very important to end up with really good pets,” Hastings says.

To that end, here are some of the techniques progressive breeders use to help maximize the neurological and behavioral development of their little explorers in fur suits. They share this common philosophy: Providing safe and fun experiences for puppies – to expand their horizons, stretch their bodies and minds, and learn that novelty brings good things – is the best investment breeders can make in their pups’ first eight weeks.

Never Too Early
Many breeders enthusiastically recommend a program of early neurological stimulation based on the “Bio Sensor” or “Super Dog” program developed by the United States military in the 1970s. (There are differing opinions about the success of the military program, and even who came up with the guidelines, but nonetheless, many breeders swear by them.) Daily from the ages of 3 to 16 days, puppies are exposed to these five exercises for three to five seconds each. All the exercises are intended to safely and briefly expose the puppy to a period of physical stress from which he can easily recover.

– Holding the puppy in one hand, the handler gently tickles between the pup’s toes with a cotton-tipped swab.

– Grasping the puppy with both hands, the handler holds the puppy perpendicular to the ground (that is, with his head held upward, directly above his tail).

– Again holding the puppy with both hands, the handler holds the puppy upside down, with his head pointing toward the ground.

– The handler holds the puppy on his back in the palm of both hands, so he is permitted to sleep.

– Finally, the handler puts the puppy, feet down, on a damp towel that has been refrigerated for at least five minutes, but does not restrain the puppy from moving.

– Breeders who do this early neurological stimulation say their puppies are better adjusted, with greater stress tolerance and reduced frustration levels when confronted with obstacles.

“I have seen unbelievable results with it,” Hastings adds. “I probably know 40 breeders who have done it to half their litter to see what the difference was – and the difference was mind-boggling.”

– Hastings points to her own breed, the Doberman Pinscher, as an example. “Dobies are working dogs, but they don’t work in bad weather – they don’t do cold or rain,” she laughs. “But I have never seen a Dobie puppy whose breeder did early stimulation that had any issue with weather.”

– Hastings stresses, however, that breeders should not go overboard. “Too much stress can have a negative effect,” she warns. If breeders embark on early neurological stimulation, it should be done only once a day, and no longer than the three to five seconds recommended.

That’s Your Problem
Lise Pratt of Huntington Station, New York – a longtime agility instructor, Golden Retriever breeder, and co-founder of Avidog, a new company that offers puppy coaching, among other services – advocates allowing puppies to solve their own problems, even as early as a few days old. But that can feel counter-intuitive to many breeders, whose first instinct is to help newborns get to the warmth and food they need as quickly as possible.

While intervention is certainly critical for puppies who are not thriving, Pratt suggests that healthy, vigorous puppies should be given the opportunity to find a solution for themselves.

“If you think about puppies in a whelping box, and you see a puppy who isn’t where he wants to be, most breeders will pick the puppy up,” and place him near a nipple or the warmth of his mother, she says. “At that point, the puppy is already learning. So unless that puppy isn’t well and doesn’t need to burn the calories, let him learn at five days old.”

Similarly, when a puppy is older and finds himself stuck in a doorway or stumped by a set of steps, resist the urge to “rescue” him, unless he is in obvious danger. Instead, Pratt recommends, give him the opportunity to solve the problem on his own – and build his confidence along the way. Some behavior professionals would argue, however, in favor of rescuing the pup if he appears significantly stressed by his entrapment.

Common Senses
In a smell-saturated variation of early neurological stimulation, at three days Pratt starts exposing her puppies to a new scent every day – tree bark, grass, herbs, fruits, spices, and training items like tennis balls and pheasant wings.

Linda Hartheimer of Grayhart Weimaraners in Saddle River, New Jersey, says exposing her puppies to scent this early primes them for the hunt tests in which they will eventually participate. Digging into her refrigerator for frozen duck and pheasant wings, she is amazed at how her puppies respond.

“At three days old, their chests are heaving with the scent of duck,” she says.

When puppies begin to hear, Pratt starts capitalizing on that sense, too, working to create a recall literally from the moment the ears open at 10 or so days old.

“When mom gets in the whelping box, we say, ‘Puppy, puppy,’ in a high, happy voice, or blow a whistle,” she says. “When they leave us, they have a rock-solid recall to both, because we start at an age when they never forget it.”

Exposure to new noises is important as well: the banging of pots and pans, the whoosh of a car on a nearby street, the whine of a landscaper’s leaf blower, and, of course, the roar of the vacuum. Puppies that are raised in cathedral quiet are almost fated to startle when they encounter these sounds in their everyday lives. As background noise, Pratt plays sound-desensitization CDs from a variety of situations that the puppies will encounter later in life, such as the din of agility and obedience trials, or the sound of gunshots in the field. Commercial recordings of thunderstorms, fireworks, and city street sounds are also available.

Kid Power
Chris Walkowicz, judge, author of Successful Dog Breeding (Howell, 1994), and a former breeder of German Shepherd Dogs and Bearded Collies, notes that puppies and kids can be a perfect combination, especially from a breeder’s point of view.

“I think everyone who breeds dogs should have kids, or rent them,” she says, half-jokingly. Most children are not only interested in spending large quantities of time in the whelping box – always supervised, of course – but also inspired in their imaginative play with the puppies. Dog-savvy kids can accustom puppies to being jostled, moved, restrained, and held in all kinds of interesting positions. Children also condition their playmates to quick motions and shrill voices, provided that the interaction is always monitored and positive.

The biggest problem with children is that they inevitably grow up. In Walkowicz’s case, there was a decade span between her first two children and her last two, so by the time her younger children left for college, her older ones began having grandchildren to start the cycle again. Breeders who don’t have children or are empty-nesters can recruit neighborhood kids or nieces and nephews to come for frequent visits.

Another advantage to having children in the household is that their cast-off toys can be great hand-me-downs for puppies. “My kids had a plastic toddler slide that was two feet long,” Walkowicz remembers. “I put that in the puppy pen, and they all loved it.”

No Flat Earth Society
As Walkowicz’s puppies demonstrated, puppies love to climb and clamber over all kinds of obstacles. (And that includes, frustratingly for breeders, the sides of the whelping box and exercise pens used to contain them.) These vertical-craving puppies aren’t mischievous – they are literally building new neural connections and wiring their brains to solve problems and be unafraid of novel things.

“I think it’s really important that puppies are never raised on a flat surface,” Hastings says. “We know that challenges in a puppy’s environment activate a part of the brain that deals with coordination.”

When puppies are very small, rolled-up towels can create obstacles that puppies learn to crawl over. Once the puppies are older and more mobile, breeders can add objects that move or shift, such as a toddler-sized seesaw or a balance board. (You can make your own board by screwing a piece of wood to a section of PVC pipe, or stapling a tennis ball inside a sock to the board.)

The more stuff the better, Hastings says, so the pen becomes a “jungle” of stimuli.

In a similar effort to “literally grow puppy brains,” Avidog’s Lise Pratt and her sister Marcy Burke developed the Adventure Box, a 30-inch-square frame that has a variety of interesting and interactive objects dangling from it.

“I wanted to get puppies to be bold and go through something, so I made a wall of noodles,” says Pratt, referring to the popular foam pool toys. Walks through the aisles of Home Depot inspired some interesting additions: empty metal paint cans, sections of garden hose, plastic funnels, and – popular among agility folks who aspire to future weave-pole stars – lengths of PVC pipe. Pratt exposes her puppies to the Adventure Box almost as soon as they can walk, depending on the individual litter.

Search the words “bottle pool” on YouTube.com, and you’ll find mesmerizing videos of puppies gleefully launching themselves into kiddie pools filled with empty soda and water bottles, making gloriously loud crunching noises as they bob around amid the plastic cylinders.

For her litters of Weimaraner pups, Hartheimer bought a kiddie sand box to use specifically for this purpose, then slowly introduced the puppies.

“When we first introduce the pool, we put them inside in pairs, with lots of food, and just a few bottles,” she says. “As they get older and more confident, we add more empty water bottles, and they remember the food and will start searching. Then, when there are a lot of bottles, they start diving in.”

While the bottle pool is very entertaining for puppies and humans alike, the experience can have lifelong benefits, especially for puppies that are headed to performance homes. “It desensitizes them to pressure on their bodies, and different noises,” explains Hartheimer, who in warmer months sometimes adds a bit of water to the pool to add a different dimension to the experience. “It’s not just about the bottles. It’s the whole environment in there.”

The Rule of Sevens
Pat Schaap, a Shetland Sheepdog breeder in Clarksville, Maryland, is credited for this list of experiences, people, and things that each puppy should have been exposed to by the time she reaches seven weeks old:

Seven different types of surfaces: Carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips.

Seven different types of play objects: Big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, sticks or hose pieces.

Seven different locations: Front yard, backyard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom.

Seven new people: Children and older adults, a person with a cane, someone in a wheelchair or walker.

Seven challenges: Climb on a box, climb off a box, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway with a step up or down, run around a fence.

Seven different food containers: Metal, plastic, cardboard, paper, china, pie plate, frying pan.

Seven different eating locations: Crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom.

Of course, seven shouldn’t be a limiting number. Pratt says she exposes her Golden Retriever puppies to 100 different people before they leave at 8 1/2 weeks. But the number is probably not as important as the concept: Positively exposing puppies to novelty as early and often as possible will expand their horizons and make them more willing – eager, even – to accept change.

A key part of Pratt’s socialization process for her puppies is what she calls “woods walks.” At about six weeks, “when the instinct to follow starts to kick in,” she and her co-breeder, Gayle Watkins, take their puppies on long walks in a nearby land trust. These jaunts not only increase proprioception – the puppies’ sense of their own bodies in the larger world – but also set the groundwork for problem-solving: If a log is in the way, the humans step over it, the dam either jumps it or goes around, and the puppies are left to figure out how to follow.

“Most people have never let their dog take the responsibility of figuring out where you are,” Pratt explains. “The dog never learns to make the choice.” She sees this frequently in the agility ring, where dogs will take off from their handlers, with no sense of connection. By the time her puppies leave, by contrast, they are walking in the woods for an hour and a half, learning how to follow every step of the way.

Potty Talk
Breeders can make great inroads into priming their puppies for successful housetraining long before they leave for their new homes.

Step one is to ditch the newspaper and piddle pads. They’re not only messy and inefficient (there is nothing grosser than a lasagna of soiled New York Times from a day’s puppy pooping), but they do not teach puppies to use a designated area to relieve themselves.

“Puppies would like to be clean, and if you give them the opportunity to be, they are clean,” Hastings says. “Among the easiest puppies to housetrain are those that are litter-box trained, because from day one they have always been taught to go somewhere else to pee and poop.”

A popular substrate for puppy litter boxes are wood pellets, either the kind sold for use in wood-burning stoves, or as horse bedding. The compressed-wood pellets are the size of a pill capsule, chemical free, and when wet disintegrate into sawdust. If placed on the pellets every time they pee or poop, most puppies will soon associate the feel of the pellets beneath their feet with those bodily functions, and begin to seek the pellets out every time they need to eliminate. Saturated pellets and feces can be easily removed with a small plastic sand shovel, keeping odor and mess to a minimum.

The Final Analysis
Like breeding, raising puppies is as much art as science. It’s important to amass as much knowledge as possible, and then improvise.

“After every litter, I re-evaluate and see what worked, and what needs tweaking,” says Hartheimer, a special-education teacher who is fascinated by how the environment she creates literally grows and wires her impressionable puppies’ brains.

Then, after the puppies leave her home and venture out into the world, it’s up to their new caretakers to continue the next phase of their education.

Read Next: Socializing Your Puppy

Updated Alternative Treatments and Supplements

Whole Dog Journal readers often try techniques and products described in the magazine, but sometimes years go by before we need something we read about, or it disappears from the market, or we have trouble finding it, or we simply forget all about it. Last month we revisited systemic oral enzymes and EMT gel, and our September issue revisited green tripe, Seacure, and Willard Water. Here are three more go-to products featured in previous issues that might now be perfect for you and your dog.

Pellitol Ointment
Nine years ago, we described a smoky-smelling pink ointment that worked wonders for seriously infected ears: Pellitol (see “Chronic Ear Infections in Canines,” WDJ June 2004). Pellitol contained zinc oxide, calamine, bismuth subgalate, bismuth subnitrate, resorcinol, echinacea fluid extract, and juniper tar. These ingredients are both disinfecting and adhesive, so that as the ointment gradually dried and shrank (a process lasting several days), it healed ulcers, dried pus and debris, and reduced bacterial growth. In addition to being effective, this apply-it-and-leave-it approach spared patients the discomfort of repeated ear-cleaning treatments.

We learned about Pellitol from holistic veterinarian Stacy Hershman of Hastings-on-Hudson, New York, who became interested in ear infections while working as a veterinary technician in her teens. “This is a subject that isn’t covered much in vet school,” she told us. “I learned about treating ear infections from the veterinarians I worked with over the years. Because they all had different techniques, I saw dozens of different treatments, and I kept track of what worked and what didn’t.”

Chronic ear infections are the bane of long-eared dogs, swimming dogs, recently vaccinated puppies, old dogs, dogs with an abundance of ear wax, and dogs with allergies, thyroid imbalances, or immune system disorders. In other words, they are among the most common recurring canine problems.

Dr. Hershman’s maintenance program for healthy ears involves gentle cleaning with cotton balls, cotton swabs, and room-temperature green tea or an alcohol-free acidic ear cleaner. Mild ear inflammation can be treated with careful flushing.

But if the infection is serious, she takes a different approach. When she began her veterinary practice, Dr. Hersh-man met dogs who wouldn’t let anyone touch their ears. “I knew that nothing I’d learned in vet school was going to help them,” she says, “so I thought back to all the treatments I’d seen over the years. The one that seemed most effective was a combination of boric acid and a thick, old-fashioned ointment that looks like pink toothpaste. I couldn’t remember its name, but I never forgot how it smelled – really peculiar, like burnt embers.”

The ointment was Pellitol, and as soon as she tracked it down, Dr. Hershman combined it with boric acid. “Like the ear powders I learned about from groomers,” she explains, “boric acid dries and acidifies the ear. Yeast and bacteria are opportunistic organisms that die in a dry, acidic environment. They thrive where it’s moist, dark, and alkaline.”

Because boric acid is toxic (note warnings on the label), it should not be inhaled or swallowed. Shielding the face is important and usually requires a helper, someone who can hold the dog’s head steady while protecting the eyes, nose, and mouth.

Experimenting with her own dogs and dogs at the animal shelter where she volunteered, Dr. Hershman placed two or three pinches of boric acid powder in each infected ear unless it was ulcerated, bleeding, or painful. “Being acidic,” she explained, “boric acid might irritate open wounds. In that case, I would use the Pellitol alone. Otherwise, a pinch or two of boric acid was an effective preliminary treatment.”

After applying boric acid, she would fill the ear with Pellitol and let it work. Within a week, the dried ointment would fall out of the dog’s ear, leaving it cleaner and far less inflamed.

The Replacements
When its developer retired and closed his business, Pellitol disappeared. Fortunately for its fans, new versions of Pellitol are manufactured by compounding pharmacies.

Dr. Hershman orders Pell Otic ointment from Wedgewood Pharmacy in Swedesboro, New Jersey, which packages the ointment in 15-milliliter syringes that retail for $24. This ointment contains zinc oxide, calamine, bismuth subnitrate, resorcinol, juniper tar, and bismuth subgallate, which are (except for echinacea) the same ingredients as Pellitol in a slightly different formula. Wedgewood Pharmacy ships to all states except North Carolina. Pet owners can order Pell Otic ointment by phone or online, but orders must be accompanied by a veterinarian’s prescription.

Dr. Hershman likes the new product. “Instead of a tube, it comes in a syringe that you dial, which makes it more economical, and it has a convenient long nozzle for applying it deep in the vertical ear canal,” she says. “It works the same as Pellitol. It’s just more brown than pink in color, possibly due to less calamine and more bismuth. It still smells good, like burnt embers.”

She recommends turning the dial once for 1 milliliter per ear unless you’re working with larger ear canals, as with Coonhounds, Spaniels, or Basset Hounds, in which case she uses 2 ml per ear. “There is a cap for the end of the syringe so it will not dry out,” she says, “and it is actually a lot less messy with the syringe than a tube. The metal Pellitol tubes would break and dry up and the ointment would be wasted. This is a better arrangement.”

Like Pellitol, Pell Otic ointment is sticky. “I tell people to protect their furniture for a day or two. The ointment will stick to anything it touches, and when you fill the ear, it can stick to the outside of the ear or the dog’s face. That excess will dry and fall off. You can remove it with vegetable oil, but leave the inside of the ear flap alone.”

Another version of Pellitol is available from Specialty Veterinary Compounding Pharmacy in Stafford, Texas. Re-ca-litol Otic Ointment contains resorcinol, bismuth subgallate, bismuth subnitrate, zinc oxide, calamine powder, juniper tar, glycerin, and petrolatum.

Re-ca-litol Otic Ointment is available in 20-gram toothpaste-like tubes costing $24.63. Orders accompanied by a veterinarian’s prescription can be placed by phone or online. Specialty Veterinary Pharmacy does not ship to Arizona, Arkansas, Kentucky, Maryland, Nebraska, North Caroline, or Virginia.

“Pellitol-type ointments can completely cure mild ear infections,” says Dr. Hershman, “but for severe purulent (pus-producing), ulcerative, long-standing Pseudomonas and Proteus bacterial infections, the ointment by itself may not be enough. Sometimes conventional antibiotics with anti-inflammatory or anti-fungal ingredients have to be alternated with the ointment treatment since these bacteria are difficult to eradicate. In severely resistant cases, I go back and forth between the ointment and ear powders containing boric acid and zinc oxide along with conventional medications. But even in severe cases, Pell Otic ointment makes a big difference.”

Continue to page 2 to read about Jakes Canine Remedy and more replacements

Note: If your dog develops an ear infection for the first time, or if his condition seems especially severe or painful, consult your veterinarian to rule out a tumor, polyp, or something else that requires medical attention.

For detailed ear-cleaning and ear-flushing instructions, see “Chronic Ear Infections in Canines,” June 2004.

Aromatherapy products for dogs have become a big business, with almost as many essential oil blends, hydrosols, and carrier oils marketed for canines as for their human companions. For an introduction to canine aromatherapy, see “Smell This” (December 2004), “Essential Aromatherapy” (January 2005), “Canines in a Mist” (April 2005), and “Healing Oils for Your Dog” (August 2005).

One of the most versatile and effective aromatherapy blends for dogs is Jake’s Canine Remedy, a topical spray that helps heal and prevent skin and coat problems.

Years ago, Colorado aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland of FrogWorks, which manufactures products for pets and people, was out of town when her dog, Jake, developed a hot spot. The steroid shot he received caused kidney failure and Jake died. In his memory, Cleveland combined purified water, apricot kernel oil, and a proprietary blend of essential oils. Jake’s Canine Remedy can be sprayed onto wet or dry dogs, brushed into the coat, used as an ear flush, or dabbed onto skin irritations, including hot spots and lick granulomas (see “Canine Wounds Deemed ‘Hot Spots,’” September 2006).

“I chose essential oils that smell good to dogs and have anti-inflammatory, analgesic, itch-relieving, anti-dermatitic, antibacterial, bacteriostatic, anti-viral, anti-fungal, soothing, healing, and calming effects,” she explains.

One of Cleveland’s test dogs was her black Labrador-Golden Retriever mix, Oscar. “Oscar swam every day, and I always sprayed him with Jake’s Remedy. He never had a hot spot or any type of skin irritation,” she says. Oscar passed away last July at age 14, and her three-year-old Lab-mix, Indie, continues the tradition.

 In our 2006 hot spot article, Shelley Voorhees of Littleton, Colorado, reported that when her champion Rottweiler was a blood donor, he had a severe reaction to the disinfecting scrub that was used. “He developed a hot spot that covered his neck and chest,” she said. “After a course of antibiotics, the hot spot was still very inflamed and still oozing. I tried Jake’s Remedy, and within 48 hours the oozing stopped. The hot spot healed within a week and his hair quickly grew back.”

More recently, in Dallas, Texas, Sue Murphy’s 6-year-old yellow Labrador Retriever, Louise, developed a serious ear infection. “I was not aware of how bad it was because there wasn’t any smell,” she says. “Her ear continued to itch and she continued to scratch until the ear and ear flap became as red as a tomato. She tested positive for yeast and bacteria.”

Louise’s vet sent her home with ointment to be used with an ear flush. As Louise hates having her ears cleaned, Murphy called Cleveland for advice.

“Frances suggested that I flush the ear with Jake’s Canine Remedy,” she says. “It was a miracle on many counts. Louise was willing to let me put it in her ear, and when I was done, she put her paws on my shoulders and kissed my face! But the most amazing thing was that within two hours, Louise’s ear was almost her natural pink.”

Murphy continued to use Jake’s Remedy for a few more days, and Louise’s ears returned to their healthy state. She never had to use the prescribed ointment again. “Every morning Louise lets me check her ears and thanks me with a big kiss,” she says. “Now I spray it on her front paws to alleviate itching and to keep her from chewing on her paws. This stuff is awesome!”

California resident Jim Rounsavell’s eight-year-old German Shepherd Dog, Gretchen, has epilepsy, incontinence, a completely replaced left hip, and skin disorders. “She developed a rash from her prolonged use of steroids under a veterinarian’s direction,” he says. “We were never told that this steroid should not be used for long periods.”

When the rash around Gretchen’s genitals and lower abdomen continued to worsen, Rounsavell took Gretchen to the Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital (VMTH) at the University of California, Davis, School of Veterinary Medicine. “The specialist said he sees only one dog every two years with a condition as severe as hers. He recommended that we work to reduce Gretchen’s weight from 122 pounds to around 100 pounds and then schedule surgery to remove the area that refused to heal.”

A FrogWorks distributor recommended Jake’s Canine Remedy and told Rounsavell that he could expect to see results in seven days. “We started using the product,” he says, “and Gretchen’s sore area became quite moist. We didn’t know what to expect so we called Frances, who informed us that this was part of the healing process. As promised, by the end of a week we saw results, and over the next two to three weeks her condition improved even more.” Rounsavell did not have to bring Gretchen back to the VMTH for the much more drastic procedure. Instead, he says, “Jake’s Remedy came to our rescue. I want everyone to know about this product.”

Kari Filburn, who lives near Portland, Oregon, purchased Jake’s Canine Remedy for her dog Koda, who had hot spots on his tail and legs. “It has really helped them heal,” she reports. In addition, Koda enjoyed Merlin’s Magic Calming Potion, another FrogWorks product. “I sprayed it on a washcloth for him and he carried it around the house. He rubbed his head all over it, then rested against the washcloth – very calm!”

Merlin was a black Lab-Great Dane adopted by Cleveland in 1999 when he was a year old. He had been severely abused and, when rescued, had a fractured hip and other injuries. “I used many essential oils to help him adjust to his new home and get over his past experiences,” says Cleveland. “A dog day care asked me to make a calming spray. . . . Then it hit me. I would use all the oils I used for Merlin when we first brought him home. The blend contained vetiver, grapefruit, frankincense, ylang ylang extra, and Roman chamomile essential oils in a base of water, apricot kernel oil, and dispersa, which is an all-natural emulsifier containing vitamins C and E. It worked, and the doggy day care was happy. In 2010, when Merlin passed away, I made it an official product to honor his memory.”

Continue to page 3 for another FrogWork’s blend and information on coconut oil. 

Another FrogWorks blend is Garth’s Canine Sneezing Remedy, which is designed to help dogs with sneezing and reverse sneezing conditions. “It’s a synergistic blend of basil, Roman chamomile, frankincense, and peppermint oils in a base of expeller-pressed safflower oil,” explains Cleveland.

“Garth’s Canine Sneezing Remedy is fabulous,” says Sue Murphy. “When Louise is having bad allergy days, she will wake with a thick coating in her eye, which I remove with a tissue. I apply Garth’s Remedy to her head and her eyes remain clear all day. I also apply it before bed so that she wakes up with a lot less stuff in her eye, just a little in the corner. I am 100 percent sold on this product for eye relief when allergies are in the air. I’m so glad I don’t have to put steroids in her eyes.”

See “Resources,” at the end of the article for a special offer on FrogWorks products for WDJ readers.

Coconut Oil
Eight years ago, when we first described coconut oil (see “How Coconut Oil Benefits Your Dog’s Health,” October 2005), it was hard to find. Now health food stores, supermarkets, and even some pet supply stores carry a variety of coconut oils from around the world.

Coconut oil fell out of favor during the second half of the 20th century because it’s a source of saturated fat. But the polyunsaturated vegetable oils that replaced it caused more harm than coconut oil ever did, and coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids (MCFAs), also known as medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) have been shown to have significant health benefits, so this traditional food has made a comeback.

Coconut oil can be added to meals, used as a cooking oil, or taken as a nutritional supplement. According to its advocates, coconut oil:

– Reduces the risk of cancer and other degenerative conditions.

– Improves cholesterol levels and helps fight heart disease.

– Improves digestion and nutrient absorption.

– Heals digestive disorders like Crohn’s disease, irritable bowel syndrome, ulcers, and colitis.

– Contains powerful antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal agents that prevent infection and disease.

– Relieves arthritis.

– Prevents and treats yeast and fungal infections.

– Prevents and treats viral infections.

– Helps balance the body’s metabolism and hormones.

– Promotes normal thyroid function.

– Helps prevent osteoporosis.

– Rejuvenates the skin and protects against skin cancer, age spots, acne, and other blemishes.

– Reduces allergic reactions.

In addition, coconut oil can be applied topically to speed the healing of cuts, burns, abrasions, and other wounds; to improve the condition of skin and hair; to deodorize whatever it touches (some people brush their teeth with it or use it as an underarm deodorant); and to clear up warts, moles, psoriasis, dandruff, precancerous lesions, athlete’s foot, jock itch, diaper rash, ringworm, vaginal yeast infections, and toenail fungus.

All of this is excellent news for people and their dogs, for most of coconut oil’s human benefits are shared by canines. And most dogs love the taste, which makes feeding coconut oil and other coconut products easy and pleasant.

There are two main types of coconut oil. The first, refined coconut oil (often labeled RBD – “refined, bleached, and deodorized”), is made from copra, or dried coconut meat, then treated to remove impurities. Most RBD coconut oil is inexpensive, bland, and odorless. It doesn’t contain all of the nutrients found in unrefined oil, its fragrance and flavor are different, and in most cases the coconuts used to produce it are of low quality and chemicals like chorine and hexane are used in the refining process. Some brands of refined coconut oil are labeled for use as a skin and hair care product.

Unrefined or “virgin” coconut oil, which is made from fresh coconuts, has culinary and health experts excited. Pressed by hand using traditional methods or manufactured in state-of-the-art factories, virgin coconut oil retains most of the nutrients found in fresh coconut.

In traditional methods, coconut meat is heated or baked until dry and then pressed, or fresh coconut milk is pressed from the meat and then heated to remove its water content, or freshly pressed coconut milk is allowed to ferment for 24 to 36 hours, during which the oil separates from the water. In modern factories, expeller-pressed coconut milk is centrifuged and vacuum-evaporated to remove water. Other methods of removing water from coconut oil include refrigeration and the use of enzymes.

The result of these traditional and modern manufacturing methods is an assortment of coconut oils in a range of flavors, prices, and quality.

Depending on temperature, coconut oil will be solid or liquid. Below 75º Fahrenheit, coconut oil is solid and white, like lard or vegetable shortening, and it is sometimes called coconut butter. At 76º F and above, coconut oil is a transparent liquid.

Good-quality oil is colorless when liquid and pure white when solid, never yellow or pink, and it should not contain any residue or have an “off” or rancid odor. “Many people complain that coconut oil makes their throat feel scratchy or causes a burning sensation,” says Bruce Fife, ND, who has written several books about coconut oil. “The catch in the throat is a sign of poor quality. Some of these oils have a roasted or smoky flavor and aroma, which is another indication of poor quality, as it comes from smoke that contaminates the oil during heat processing.”

The newest coconut oil products are liquid coconut oil and MCT oil. Plain coconut oil contains 62.5 percent medium chain fatty acids (MCFAs), while liquid coconut oil contains 93 percent, and MCT oil contains 100 percent.

“While 100 percent MCFAs may sound impressive,” says Dr. Fife, “there is a drawback. MCT oil contains only two medium chain fatty acids (caprylic and capric acids). It has no lauric acid, which is the most important of the fatty acids. Lauric acid is the most potent antimicrobial fatty acid and provides the greatest degree of protection against infection and disease. Similarly, liquid coconut oil consists of over 81 percent of the same two MCFAs as MCT oil, with only 11.5 percent lauric acid and very little caprylic and myristic acids, which also have antimicrobial properties.”

In addition, liquid coconut oil and MCT oil are far more expensive than plain coconut oil. 

It’s Good For Dogs
We’re not aware of any clinical trials of coconut oil for canine maladies of any kind, but the anecdotal evidence is impressive. Reports published on Internet forums describe how overweight dogs become lean and energetic soon after coconut oil is added to their diets, or their shabby-looking coats become sleek and glossy, and dogs with arthritis or ligament problems grow stronger and more lively.

Even dogs with serious diseases have improved. In one case, a Doberman Pinscher with severe Wobblers made a dramatic recovery in less than a week after coconut oil was added to his diet. In another case, coconut oil helped a dog recover from valley fever (Coccidioides), a fungal infection transmitted by soil spores in the Southwest.

Other reports involve itchy skin, cuts, wounds, rashes, lesions, skin tags, warts, and hot spots. Dogs with flea allergies, contact dermatitis, or other allergic reactions typically stop scratching soon after coconut oil is added to their food, and dogs treated topically for bites, stings (including bee stings), ear mites, or ear infections recover more quickly.

An easy way to improve a dog’s gums and breath is to rub the teeth with coconut oil once or twice a day or simply give the dog a small amount on a spoon.

Dr. Fife has collected coconut oil stories for years, and one of his favorites, mentioned in his book Coconut Cures, is from a man whose dog developed a lump next to her eye.

“The veterinarian said it looked like a tumor,” the owner reported, “and he recommended immediate surgery. I figured that if coconut oil is good for humans, it should be good for animals as well, so I began applying it to the lump on my dog’s forehead. As time passed, the lump grew smaller and smaller and eventually disappeared. It never returned. We avoided the surgery.

“Some time later my other dog developed sores just above his upper lip. The vet gave him an antibiotic, but it didn’t seem to do any good. After a week I stopped the medication and began applying coconut oil to the sores. They got worse for a few days and then began to heal. He recovered without a problem.”

How To Use Coconut Oil
For convenient application, store coconut oil in both a glass eyedropper bottle and a small jar. During cold weather, these containers are easy to warm in hot water so that the oil quickly melts.

Use the eyedropper to apply coconut oil to ears, cuts, wounds, mouth sores, and other targeted areas, including your dog’s toothbrush.

Use the small jar to apply coconut oil to larger areas, such as cracked paw pads. Coconut oil is not fast-drying, so use a towel or tissue to remove excess oil as needed. The main challenge with coconut oil’s topical application is that most dogs love the taste and immediately lick it off. To give coconut oil a chance to disinfect wounds and speed healing, cover the wound with a towel for a few minutes, or distract the dog long enough for at least some of the oil to be absorbed.

In addition to lubricating the skin and joints, coconut oil acts as a natural preservative, is exceptionally stable, has a long shelf life, and does not require refrigeration.

Solid or liquid coconut oil can be added to food at any meal or given between meals. The optimum dose for dogs is about 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight daily, or 1 tablespoon per 30 pounds. These are general guidelines, as some dogs need less and others more.

But don’t start with these amounts. Instead, introduce coconut oil a little at a time in divided doses. Because coconut oil kills harmful bacteria, viruses, parasites, yeasts, and fungi, the burden of removing dead organisms can trigger symptoms of detoxification. Headaches, fatigue, diarrhea, and flu-like symptoms are common in humans who consume too much too fast, and similar symptoms can occur in dogs.

Even in healthy dogs, large amounts of coconut oil can cause diarrhea or greasy stools while the body adjusts. Start with small amounts, such as 1/4 teaspoon per day for small dogs or puppies and 1 teaspoon for large dogs. Gradually increase the amount every few days. If your dog seems tired or uncomfortable or has diarrhea, reduce the amount temporarily.

Coconut oil isn’t the only coconut product that’s good for dogs. Fresh and dried coconut are excellent sources of dietary fiber, and dogs enjoy and benefit from the same coconut flakes, coconut chips, coconut cream, coconut milk, shredded coconut, and coconut spreads used by their human companions. Just be sure the products are unsweetened and free from chemical preservatives.

Some dog lovers report that fresh coconuts, which are widely sold in supermarkets and health food stores, can keep a dog busy for hours. Choose coconuts with a hard brown shell and shake them to be sure they’re full of coconut water. If you’re not used to opening coconuts, look online for instructions. Remove the coconut water, which your dog will enjoy; then split the coconut in half or into multiple pieces with a hammer or other tool, and let your dog go to work. Chewing on the shell to get every morsel will help clean her teeth, and coconut’s nutritional benefits make this a doubly rewarding treat.

Teach Your Dog to Help With Chores Around the House

Jessie can, among other things, wake up family members; dust with a feather duster; close a left-open toilet lid; mop up spills with a towel; get the mail; use a Dustbuster; mop the floor; polish shoes and boots; take out the trash; pick up dropped items; turn on lights; carry a shopping basket; and push a grocery cart. Some of these behaviors are just for fun; you couldn’t genuinely expect a dog to understand the point of putting polish on your shoes, much less doing a good job of it! But some of them are legitimately helpful!

1. Fetch the Newspaper

corgi getting newspaper

Of course there’s the old standby of bringing in the newspaper. Trainer Clarissa Bergeman, CPDT, owner of In Canine Company, in Round Hill, Virginia, enjoyed sharing a walk down the driveway with Anny, her Pembroke Welsh Corgi, to get the newspaper or the mail. Anny was always happy to carry the paper or a magazine on the walk back. Anny is gone now, but Bergeman’s new Corgi, Simon, is learning the task in her stead.

2. Sort Laundry

I thought this one might be particularly up my 8-year-old Scorgidoodle’s (Bonnie) alley, since she loves to hold soft things in her mouth. In fact, I often have to search Bonnie’s crate for socks; if she finds any lying on the floor, she stashes them in her bed.

Since dogs are partially color-blind, it’s probably too much to expect she could sort clothes by color herself, so I started by placing an article of laundry in each of several spots that I named accordingly: Whites, Jeans, Brights (pronounced “Buh-rights,” to help distinguish it from “Whites”), and Towels. The piles were generously far apart at first (six to eight feet between) so I could point to the proper pile without confusing her. I started by handing her a piece of clothing from the basket, gave the cue, pointed to the appropriate pile, and moved with her to the spot. Then I gave her the “Trade” cue, and when she dropped the item on the pile to “trade” for a treat, I clicked my clicker (one could also use a verbal reward marker, such as the word “Yes!”, to indicate that she performed the desired behavior) and gave her a treat.

I quickly faded my movement toward the appropriate pile, finding that the pointing gesture alone sufficed to send her to the proper spot. The “Trade” cue prompted her to drop the item, and a click-treat brought her back to me for the next piece of laundry. We just started this recently, so it’s still a work in progress. Our next step will be to fade the pointing gesture and see if she can identify the proper pile with just a verbal cue.

3. Close Doors

Susan Giordano, CPDT, owner of K9U in Atlanta, Georgia, taught her dog Potter to close the refrigerator, pantry door, and any cabinets that are open. Potter will also fetch a towel so Susan can wipe off the counters. Susan says when they are finished with the chores, they dance!

It’s relatively simple to teach your dog to close doors. Begin by teaching her to target with her nose or paw (hint: using your dog’s nose to close doors rather than a paw reduces the likelihood of scratches to the finish). Offer the palm of your hand to your dog at her nose level. When she sniffs it, click (or say “Yes!”) and treat. Repeat until she eagerly bumps her nose into your hand, and then add the cue “Touch!” as you offer your palm. (If she thinks your offered palm is the cue for “Shake” try the back of your hand, or offer her the knuckles of your closed fist.)

When you are confident she understands the “Touch” cue, hold a plastic lid (such as the top to a tub of cottage cheese or yogurt) in your hand and ask her to touch that. First hold it so it covers your palm, then eventually hold it by the edge.

When she will touch the lid reliably, attach it to a door or drawer with double-stick tape or rubber cement and cue her to touch it there. You may need to start with your hand near the lid and gradually fade the presence of your hand. When she reliably targets her nose to the lid, shape for more powerful touches until she touches hard enough to close the door or drawer. (For tips on using a target stick to teach this behavior, see “Utilize Target Training,” January 2007.)

4. Pick Up Trash

Lots of dogs have been taught to pick up their own toys and put them away in a basket designated for that purpose. Dana Ebbecke, one of the trainers at My Pet’s Teacher in Horsham, Pennsylvania, suggests a variation on that behavior: teaching your dog to pick up trash and put it in a garbage can. This is a perfect behavior to “backchain” – where you teach the last piece of the behavior first, and build the chain backward from there.

Offer your dog a piece of trash (that she won’t want to eat) directly over the center of a garbage can and say “Take it!” When she takes it, praise her, then cue her to “Drop.” If she already knows a “Drop” cue, she will drop the trash and it will fall in the can. Click (or use another reward marker) and treat. If she doesn’t know the “Drop” cue yet, say “Drop” and offer her a treat. When she opens her mouth for the treat the trash will fall in the can. Click and treat.

When the “Drop” is working over the center of the garbage can, move the trash slightly to one side, but still over the can, and cue the “Drop.” If it falls into the can, click and treat. If it misses, say “Oops!” and try it again. Gradually move the “training trash” farther from the center of the can, until it’s no longer even over the can. You are helping the dog understand that she needs to move it back over the middle of the can to make sure it falls inside, not outside the can.

When she can bring the trash that you hand her to the can from some distance, start offering it to her closer to the ground, so she understands she has to lift it up and move it to the can. Finally, place the trash on the ground, and add your “Pick up the trash!” cue before you say “Take it!” In fairly short order you should be able to fade the “Take it!” cue and your “Pick up the trash!” should prompt her to pick up that item and drop it in the can.

Now you’ll need to generalize the cue to a variety of different trash items. Make sure you don’t leave valuable objects on the floor when you ask her to pick up the trash! You can’t expect her to make good judgment calls about what is trash and what is treasure; your smart phone could end up in the garbage.

Ebbecke suggests adding to the “Wow! factor” of this behavior by using a garbage can with a push-pedal lid, and teaching your dog to step on the lid to open the can before she drops the trash in. (Just don’t teach this one to a dog who is likely to help herself to items in the can rather than putting more trash there.)

5. Pick Up/Find/Bring

The “seek back” used to be a behavior performed in advanced obedience competition. You walked around the ring and, when cued by the judge, dropped an item, such as a glove. Your dog was supposed to continuing heeling with you until you stopped and gave him the cue to, go back, get it, and bring it back to you. Very useful!

dog digging in couch

It’s relatively simple to get your dog to pick up something you just dropped. Your “Pick it up!” cue (from “pick up the trash”) can generalize to anything you indicate you want your dog to pick up – and it sure beats stooping over to get it yourself.

Just think how even more useful it would be if your dog could search for and find, by name, items you’ve misplaced such as your car keys, the TV remote, your cell phone, or your glasses. I realized many years ago how capable dogs are at finding lost stuff when our wonderful Terrier-mix, Josie, found our missing tortoise without even being trained to do so.

I didn’t realize I had taught Josie to associate the word “Turtle” with Fred and Wilma, the two yellow-footed tortoises we had adopted from the shelter where I worked at the time. But apparently I had. One day I couldn’t find Fred. I frantically searched the yard, repeating aloud to myself, “Where’s the turtle?” I eventually realized that Josie was coming to me, and then running to the spot where Fred had fallen behind a retaining wall. Because of that amazing little dog, Fred was found, safe and sound.

Chaser, the brilliant Border Collie and subject of multiple cognition studies, now knows the names of more than 1,000 objects, and can retrieve them by name.  Surely your dog can learn the names of a handful of objects, then learn to find them for you when they go missing.

You’ve probably already taught her some, simply by using object names in your conversations with her. “Fetch the ball!” “Go to your bed.” “Get in the car.” So it’s not a stretch to think you can teach her more.

Use your targeting cue, followed by the name of the object. Hold the TV remote in your hand and say “Touch, Remote.” Click (or say “Yes!”) and treat when she does it. Hold your car keys and say “Touch, Keys.” Click and treat. Then place them on a table or floor (one at a time) and do the same. When you’ve done it several times with each item individually, place both on the floor six to eight feet apart, stand six to eight feet away, and ask her to touch one. If she gets the right one, click, treat and party! If she goes to the wrong one, cheerfully say “Oops!” and try again.

If she gets more misses than hits, go back to working with just one object at a time for a while, then try again. Eventually teach her the names of other objects you’d like her to be able to find for you.

When she’s identifying the correct object at least 80 percent of the time, start adding the “Find it!” element. If you’ve already done nose games with your dog, this will be easy as pie. Just as you have been doing already, place one of the objects on the floor in plain view and say “Find Remote!” When she goes over and sniffs it, click and treat. She found it! Repeat several times.

Now start hiding it. First have her sit and wait, and let her watch you hide it in a very easy place. Return to her side and cue, “Find Remote!” When she goes to where it is, click and treat. If you want to teach her a “tell” – a behavior she performs to tell you she found it – start asking her for that behavior when she locates the object. You could have her sit or lie down at the spot where the item was, or she could come back to you and touch you with her paw to let you know she found it, then lead you to it.

Gradually hide objects in harder and harder places, and eventually hide them when she isn’t watching and then ask her to find them. The final step is to have her find things when you’ve really lost them.

You can even take this one step further by teaching her the names of family members and having her find them. Just as you did with objects, have your human hide first in easy places, then harder and harder. If, heaven forbid, a family member is ever truly lost, your dog can join in the search!

6. Reveille

Now that you’ve taught your dog the names of family members, you might as well make every day use of it. Send her to wake up family members who are sleeping in too long. Teach her to pull the covers off the sleepyheads! Have her deliver messages to the kids – carried in her mouth or attached to her collar. Ask her to bring everyone to the table at dinnertime. The sky’s the limit!

dog with lunchbox

Unexpected Help

A dog trainer friend, Deborah Lee Miller-Riley, from Monroe, Connecticut, posted this on her Facebook wall, just as I was writing this article. It’s a great testimonial for the value of teaching your dog a few general purpose helping behaviors. Miller-Riley wrote:

“This morning I attempted to change a small latch on a screen door. I was standing on a 4-foot high front porch, which is bordered by 6-foot high bushes. In my clumsy attempt to screw in the small metal bracket, it flipped out of my hands and landed under the bushes next to the house – a place I would have great difficulty reaching.

“So I called for Rivets, my service-dog-in-training. I showed her a short pathway to the spot where the item fell and told her to ‘Bring,’ her cue to seek and bring something back to my hand. The object would have my fresh scent on it and would most likely stand out to her like a bright color to us. She went right into the bushes, nosed around and pawed at the object. I said, ‘Yes, bring!’ She picked it up, crawled out and delivered it to my hand. She is such a cool dog, her mind and willingness astonishes me. I completed my door repair after a treat fest with my little paw-hero.”

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for dog trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training.

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What’s the most appropriate home?

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Here is a topic for discussion that was inspired by real-life events.

Two couples are both interested in a big, active dog at the shelter.

One couple is older. They own their home. Property is at least several acres, but unfenced. Husband is retired and home most days, puttering in garden and with hobbies. Wife works 30 or so hours a week. They formerly owned another big, active dog, who recently died of old age. They have a 2-year-old small dog who misses having canine company. They have a trainer who they have worked with previously and plan to do so again.

Second candidate couple is young, early 20s. They are renters. They also live on several acres, but their home property is fenced. They have another big, young, active dog, a female. They both work.

My bias in placing the dog was toward the older couple. While it’s true that they lacked a fenced yard for the dog, the fact that they own their home reassures me that they won’t be at the mercy of future landlords if they have to move for whatever reason. They also have the financial wherewithal to provide the dog with whatever medical or behavioral interventions he is likely to need. A week in training? Knee or hip surgery? Wouldn’t be a problem for these people.

Staff at the shelter was biased in favor of the young couple. The fact that their property was fenced, their youth, and that they were already dealing with a big, active dog made them seem more equipped to deal with the dog’s perceived need for activity.

I’m just curious: Where would most people, or most shelter staffers, end up placing a dog like this?

Use Caution When Filling Veterinary Prescriptions at Human Pharmacies

A few years ago, I was at my vet’s office when an older couple brought in a Chihuahua puppy who was very ill. Despite the staff’s best efforts, less than an hour later the pup was dead. The cause? A drug overdose, due to a prescription error made by a human pharmacy.

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The prescribed amount for this tiny pup was 0.4 mg, but the pharmacist, who had probably never come across such a small dosage, had misread the prescription as 4 mg, so the pup had received 10 times as much of the drug as he was supposed to get. My vet accepted partial responsibility, as he had failed to write a zero in front of “.4” on the prescription. (Veterinarians are now being encouraged to use leading, but not trailing, zeroes when they write prescriptions to help avoid such mistakes.

It had never occurred to me before that day to review a prescription for accuracy, but you’d better believe I’m careful to check them now. Errors are less likely to occur with prescriptions filled at your vet’s office, since the people filling the prescription know their patients and are familiar with common dosages for dogs. The growing use of human pharmacies filling prescriptions for our dogs, however, means we must also deal with pharmacists who may know little or nothing about a canine patient’s needs, or have any idea of the size of the patient when filling the prescription. This ignorance can lead to serious, even fatal, errors.

Potential for Mistakes
Incorrect dosage amounts are not the only mistakes that human pharmacists may make when filling prescriptions written for pets. Pharmacists currently receive no training in the use of drugs for non-human patients. The VIN (Veterinary Information Network) News Service has written about several problems that veterinarians have seen in recent years.

One example was a pharmacist who told a client that the dosage of diazepam (Valium) that her vet had prescribed for her dog could kill him. The pharmacist was unaware that dosages of many medications, including those used to treat hypothyroidism, seizures, and anxiety, are much higher for dogs than they are for humans, due to differences in metabolism and other factors.

The prescribed dosage was correct, but the client was now afraid to give the medication to her dog, who suffered as a result. The dog was recovering from knee surgery and the medication had been prescribed to help keep him off his leg and reduce his anxiety. Without it, he overused and injured the leg, requiring additional surgery.

One of the first cases to result in a formal complaint followed by regulatory action, the state’s Pharmacy Board issued a “notice of correction” to the pharmacist. In response, he asked that the drug store chain for which he worked provide its pharmacies with references in veterinary dosing and indications, which has since been done.

In other cases, pharmacists have altered doses, believing they are correcting a veterinarian’s mistake, or substituted medications inappropriately, without notifying either the veterinarian or the client of the changes. This has led to serious problems for some dogs. For example, when a pharmacist substitutes a different type of insulin for what a diabetic dog is accustomed to, this can cause changes in glucose control and even life-threatening hypoglycemia. In other examples, medication doses have been lowered to the point that they are no longer effective, leading to suffering and even death in some dogs. In one case, a client reduced her dog’s seizure medication on the advice of a pharmacist, and the dog developed intractable seizures that led to euthanasia.

Most of the time, veterinarians are unaware of the changes, or learn about them long after the fact, making it difficult for them to treat their patients effectively, or to report what happened to the appropriate authorities.

These problems are not new, but they are increasing as more people turn to human pharmacies in order to save money on their pets’ prescriptions. Mistakes may also occur more frequently with large national chains that fill high volumes of prescriptions, where a pharmacist is unlikely to develop a personal relationship with either veterinarians or clients. Pending congressional legislation that would require veterinarians to provide all prescriptions in writing to pet owners with a notice that they can fill the prescription elsewhere could contribute to even more frequent problems in the future.

Take-home Message
Whenever your vet gives you a prescription, make sure you understand the prescribed amount and dosing schedule. Then check the label to make sure that the name of the medication is the same as what your vet prescribed, and that the printed instructions match what your vet told you to give. If you have any questions about the medication, check with your vet, rather than relying on information from the pharmacist. If a pharmacy offers you a substitute medication, do not accept it until and unless you confirm with your vet that the substitution is acceptable. And never change your dog’s medication based on a pharmacist’s advice.

How to Decipher Veterinary Code

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When PWD Rover, MACH, CGC, OTCH, RE, began favoring his RHL, Rover’s trainer, Molly Millikin, CPDT-KA, suggested that he be examined at an AAHA-accredited clinic. After an initial exam and tests were conducted by Dr. Terry R. Whitecoat, VMD, Dr. Whitecoat recommended that Rover be taken to see Dr. Collie G. Deluxe, DCVSMR.

What the heck do all those letters mean? They can seem as random as letters in a bowl of alphabet soup. But those acronyms pack a lot of information in just a spoonful. The letters around a dog’s name indicate what competitive titles he has attained. The letters after a trainer’s name indicate what sort of education and certification she has attained. And the letters after a veterinarian’s name, or having to do with her practice, tell you what sort of advanced education and certification she has.

Here’s a guide to deciphering all the letters that you may see that have to do with veterinary professionals. In future issues, we’ll explain the letters having to do with dogs’ and trainers’ titles.

Veterinary Letters
There are dozens of professional organizations that offer educational opportunities for veterinarians who have a special interest in a type of medicine. Other veterinary medical groups have been organized for the express purpose of developing guidelines and standards for practitioners who wish to pursue an advanced level of knowledge about a certain type of medicine.

Many of the organizations listed in this section provide training, education, and support for veterinary professionals in specific areas of medicine, but don’t call them “specialties.” That word is reserved exclusively to designate veterinary organizations that provide training and certification in specialties that have been recognized by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA); these specialties are described after this section (see “Veterinary Specialties,” page 12).

Note also that while a good number of alternative and complementary medical associations offer advanced training and certification, none, as yet, have obtained “board-certified” recognition by the AVMA.

AAHA: The American Animal Hospital Association is an international association committed to ensuring high-quality veterinary standards, improving pet care, and supporting small animal practices. AAHA has developed a set of accreditation standards that are widely used as benchmarks to measure excellence in veterinary medicine.

AAHA is the only organization that accredits animal hospitals throughout the United States and Canada; currently, more than 3,200 veterinary clinics hold the “AAHA-accredited” designation. In general, clinics that seek out and stay current on AAHA accreditation have a special interest in providing above-average, up-to-date service and care to their clients and patients.

Accreditation helps veterinary hospitals stay on the leading edge of veterinary medicine and ensures a wide range of quality services, such as diagnostic testing (xray and laboratory) for prompt diagnosis and an on-site pharmacy so treatment can begin immediately.

AAVA: The American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture was established to improve animal health by the advancement of veterinary acupuncture, Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine, and Traditional Asian Medicine. Credentialed membership is awarded to individuals who are citizens or permanent residents of the U.S., are licensed graduates of a college or school of veterinary medicine, and who have successfully completed an AAVA-approved veterinary acupuncture/TCM course or equivalent.

Advanced certification is awarded and the title of Fellow of the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture (FAAVA) is conferred after successfully passing an examination. The exam demands that candidates demonstrate expert knowledge about the classical and neuro-physiologic basis of acupuncture and Chinese medicine, and their application for successful diagnosis and treatment of veterinary patients.

AAVC: The American Association of Veterinary Clinicians is an organization of clinicians (vets who practice medicine in a clinic, as opposed to those who work in a laboratory or research) with an interest in veterinary clinical teaching and research. The AAVC sponsors matching programs for internships and residencies to expedite selection of applicants for vet schools, colleges, and private practices.

AAVSB: The American Association of Veterinary State Boards is a not-for-profit association comprised of 58 veterinary licensing boards. Its primary function is to provide quality, relevant programs and services that these boards can rely on to carry out their statutory responsibilities (regulating veterinarians) in the interest of public protection.

ACCC/AVCA: The Animal Chiropractic Certification Commission of the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association is the primary national credential for this field in North America. The organization establishes standards of care in animal chiropractic, conducts a professional certification program, awards credentials to individuals who meet established criteria, and promotes professional accountability and visibility. Certified Doctors may call themselves “certified in animal chiropractic by the Animal Chiropractic Certification Commission of the AVCA.”

Note that both veterinarians and doctors of chiropractic may be certified in animal chiropractic; but a doctor of chiropractic who is not a vet must have a referral from a vet for a diagnosed problem before treating an animal.

ACSMA: The American Canine Sports Medicine Association is an organization for veterinarians, physical therapists, trainers, and other professionals devoted to addressing the medical and surgical problems encountered in the canine athlete and the working breeds. Note that this organization offers information resources for veterinarians and non-veterinarians who work in this field; there is also a board certification for veterinarians in sports medicine (see ACVSMR: The American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehablitation).

AhVMA: The American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association explores and supports alternative and complementary approaches to veterinary healthcare, and is dedicated to integrating all aspects of animal wellness in a socially and environmentally responsible manner. Its annual conference introduces many “conventional” veterinarians to the wide range of alternative and complementary medical modalities available to veterinarians, and the latest research in these modalities.

AVMA: The American Veterinary Medical Association, founded in 1863, is a not-for-profit association representing veterinarians in the United States, with the mission to improve animal and human health, and advance the veterinary medical profession.

The AVMA is responsible for the profession’s Principles of Veterinary Medical Ethics. Its Council of Education sets the standards for the accreditation of veterinary medical programs accepted by all states, and its Committee on Veterinary Technician Education and Activities sets the standards for the accreditation of veterinary technician education programs. The AVMA Educational Commission for Foreign Veterinary Graduates evaluates the competence of graduates of colleges of veterinary medicine that are not accredited by the AVMA Council on Education. Finally, the AVMA’s American Board of Veterinary Specialties (ABVS) establishes and evaluates criteria for recognition of veterinary specialty organizations.

AVSAB: The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior is a group of veterinarians and research scientists dedicated to improving the lives of animals and people through an understanding of animal behavior. Note that animal behavior is also a field in which a veterinarian can become board-certified; see the ACVB, American College of Veterinary Behaviorists, below.

BFRAP: Bach Foundation Registered Animal Practitioners hold a certificate of registration issued by the Bach Centre and work to the Bach Centre’s Bach Foundation Code of Practice. Both veterinarians and non-vets can obtain this certification; but a practitioner who is not a veterinarian must have a referral from a veterinarian for a diagnosed veterinary problem before treating an animal with the Bach Flower Remedy system.

BVetMed/BVSc/BVSC: The Bachelor of Veterinary Science is a bachelor’s degree conferred for studies in veterinary science in the United Kingdom and some other countries. These degrees are equivalent to DVM/VMD degrees in the U.S. They are not called “doctorate” degrees due to nomenclature differences among degree designations between the U.S. and Canada and the U.K.

CCRA: The Canine Rehabilitation Institute offers two certifications, one for vets and physical therapists (CCRT, next item on list), and the CCRA (Certified Canine Rehabilitation Assistant) for veterinary technicians and physical therapy assistants.

CCRT: The title of Certified Canine Rehabilitation Therapist is awarded only to trained veterinarians and physical therapists by the Canine Rehabilitation Institute. (Physical therapists – people with training in this field on humans – are certified in the U.S. by the Commission on Accreditation in Physical Therapy Education. Some hold Bachelor’s and/or Master’s degrees in physical therapy, while others obtain a Doctor of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree.)

Cert AAH: Applied Animal Herbalism Certificate from the Companion Animal Sciences Institute (CASI). Open to all, CASI is a private professional skills development institution providing advanced, comprehensive, science-based, home-study in dog training, dog daycare operation, shelter and rescue work, and canine nutrition and fitness; it does not grant degrees and therefore it is not accredited. Both veterinarians and non-vets can obtain this certification; but a practitioner who is not a veterinarian must have a referral from a veterinarian for a diagnosed veterinary problem before treating an animal.

Cert CN and Cert ACN: Canine Nutrition Certificate and Advanced Canine Nutrition Certificate from the Companion Animal Sciences Institute (see Cert AAH above).

CVH: A Certified Veterinary Homeopath is a veterinarian who has also been certified by the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (AVH).

CVPM: Certified Veterinary Practice Manager with a credential from Veterinary Hospital Managers Association (VHMA).

DVM: Doctor of Veterinary Medicine from an accredited college or university. All veterinary schools in North America use this designation except for the University of Pennsylvania, which issues a degree of VMD. See VMD, below.

MLAS: Master of Laboratory Animal Science. This degree is offered by one university in the U.S. and several in Europe. Laboratory animal welfare and management, and the legal and ethical aspects of laboratory animal use, are among the topics studied for this degree.

MRCVS: Veterinarians practicing surgery in the United Kingdom must be registered members of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS). FRCVS veterinary surgeons have received the Diploma of Fellowship (the highest award of the RCVS) by either the submission of a thesis or for meritorious contributions to learning. “Fellows,” through their research, push frontiers by creating new knowledge in a wide range of subject areas.

PhD: Doctoral degree from an accredited college or university.

RVT/LVT/CVT: Registered Veterinary Technician/Licensed Veterinary Technician/Certified Veterinary Technician. Each state has different requirements for credentialing veterinary technicians; some are registered, some licensed, and some certified.

A veterinary technician is a graduate of an AVMA-accredited two-year program, from a community college, college, or university. Almost every state requires a veterinary technician to take and pass a credentialing exam, which is either state-administered or administered by the AAVSB (i.e., the Veterinary Technician National Examination or VTNE).

State veterinary associations: Each state has its own veterinary regulatory agency. These are the organizations that you would contact to determine whether a veterinarian is licensed and had ever been the subject of disciplinary action, and to file a complaint against a vet.

VMD: 
Veterinary Medical Doctor. The University of Pennsylvania calls its degree a veterinary medical doctorate and abbreviates it as such; it is equivalent to DVM.

WSAVA: The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) is an association of associations. Its membership consists of international veterinary organizations with the primary purpose to advance the quality and availability of companion animal care and create a unified standard of care for the benefit of animals and humankind.

Veterinary Specialties
In veterinary medicine, as in human medicine, there are general practitioners – the basic family doctor type – and specialists. Many people use the word “specialist” loosely, as in “My vet specializes in holistic medicine,” but actually the word has a legal definition and it involves more than just identifying a practice that is limited to a certain type of medicine.

In the U.S., veterinary specialists are those (and only those) who have been board-certified by one of the 22 veterinary specialty organizations recognized by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) in one of 41 specialties. This list has grown over the years; currently the AVMA’s American Board of Veterinary Specialties (ABVS) is considering petitions to add two more specialties to its list: Shelter Medicine (which would fall under the already large umbrella of American Board of Veterinary Practitioners [see below] and Equine Dentistry [which would fall under the purview of the American Veterinary Dental College [see below]).

Each AVMA-recognized specialty organization develops the training requirements for its certification. The most common include the completion of an internship (usually one year), completion of a residency training program (usually two to three years) under the supervision of veterinarians who are board-certified in that specialty, and a final examination. There are some exceptions. Some specialty organizations will accept several years of veterinary practice experience in lieu of an internship; one accepts extensive practice experience with a certain species to become eligible to examine for certification as a specialist with that species.

Once they have met all the requirements of their specialty, veterinarians are awarded “Diplomate” status. Board-certified specialists indicate this status with the capital letter D before the abbreviation of the specialty organization; for example, a veterinarian certified by the American College of Veterinary Surgeons would list the letters “DACVS” after his/her name.

Some organizations require extensive advanced training in not only the specific area of specialty, but also in related areas of veterinary medicine.

For example, to become board certified in veterinary surgery, an individual must also complete at least 80 hours of training with a board-certified veterinary anesthesiologist, at least 80 hours with a board-certified veterinary radiologist, at least 80 hours with a board-certified veterinary internal medicine specialist, and at least 80 hours with a board-certified veterinary pathologist during the three or more years of a veterinary surgical residency. You can see how a board-certified veterinary surgeon would have much more training and experience than an ordinary veterinarian who does surgery.

The benefits of seeing a specialist for difficult-to-diagnose or complicated cases can’t be overvalued. A veterinarian who has sought out additional education and training in a given field will almost always be more likely to successfully diagnose and treat complicated conditions. She generally will equip her clinic with the most sophisticated diagnostic tools and stay informed about new and more effective treatments.

The following specialty organizations are recognized by the AVMA according to the policies and procedures of the ABVS:

ABVP: The American Board of Veterinary Practitioners certifies veterinarians who demonstrate knowledge and expertise in species-oriented clinical practice.

A veterinary degree gives a vet the legal right to diagnose and treat any type of non-human animal for any sort of medical condition; it does not necessarily make her an expert in treating any specific type of animal. She can open a practice and say that it’s limited to small animals, or even just dogs and cats, but she may not say that she specializes in dogs or cats unless she has obtained a board certification by the ABVP in Canine and Feline Medicine.

The other species-oriented veterinary specialty certifications are Avian, Beef Cattle, Dairy, Equine, Exotic Companion Mammal, Feline, Food Animal, Reptile and Amphibian, and Swine Health Management. Note that there is no board-certification that deals solely with dogs; the Canine and Feline Practice certification comes closest.

These species-oriented certifications may still seem somewhat general, as compared to opthamology (as just one example). But consider that it takes a minimum of six years of clinical practice experience with the specific patient species before an applicant can take the examination for this certification.

ABVT: Veterinarians who are certified by the American Board of Veterinary Toxicology have special training as regards the toxicological hazards to pets, livestock, and wildlife.

ACAW: Veterinarians who are certified by the American College of Animal Welfare demonstrate an advanced level of expertise in all aspects of animal welfare science and animal welfare ethics. (This board certification is one of the newest specialties recognized by the ABVS and has a provisional status.)

ACLAM: The American College of Laboratory Animal Medicine advances the humane care and responsible use of laboratory animals through certification of veterinary specialists, professional development, education, and research.

ACPV: American College of Poultry Veterinarians.

ACT: Diplomates of the American College of Theriogenologists have advanced training in theriogenology (the branch of veterinary medicine concerned with reproduction, including veterinary obstetrics).

ACVAA: American College of Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia.

ACVB: Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists are veterinarians who have attained specialist status in animal behavior. They have received additional training, generally at least three years, and they have authored a published research project in animal behavior, written case reports, and passed a two-day examination.

Veterinary behaviorists are trained to diagnose and treat problems in animals, whether they are medical or behavioral. They are also licensed to prescribe drugs and are familiar with psychotropic medications, their uses, interactions with other medications, and side effects.

ACVCP: Veterinarians who are certified by the American College of Veterinary Clinical Pharmacology have received intensive training in the use of veterinary drugs.

Pharmacology is often described as a “bridge science” because it incorporates knowledge from a number of basic science disciplines including physiology, biochemistry, and cell and molecular biology in order to rationally develop therapeutic treatments.

ACVD: Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology have expertise and specialized training in diagnosing and treating of animals with benign and malignant disorders of the skin, hair, ears, and nails.

ACVECC: American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care.

ACVIM: The American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine is the international certifying organization for veterinary specialists in five different areas: cardiology, large animal internal medicine (LAIM), neurology, oncology, and small animal internal medicine (SAIM).

ACVM: The American College of Veterinary Microbiologists certifies veterinarians with special expertise in microbiology (includes the fields of bacteriology, mycology, immuno-serology, and virology).

ACVN: American College of Veterinary Nutrition. Veterinary nutritionists formulate commercial foods and supplements as well as home-prepared diets, manage the medical and nutritional needs of individual animals, and recommend specific nutritional strategies that are used to prevent and treat diseases.

ACVO: American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists.

ACVP: American College of Veterinary Pathologists. Two types of certification may be earned: Anatomic Pathology or Clinical Pathology.

ACVPM: Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Preventative Medicine help prevent and control diseases of food animals and humans, combining the disciplines of veterinary microbiology, epidemiology, immunology, parasitology, public health, production medicine, and clinical medicine.

ACVR: Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Radiology receive advanced training in diagnostic imaging such as radiology, ultrasound, computed tomography (CT), magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), and nuclear medicine. Certification may be earned in Radiology (Diagnostic Imaging) and Radiation Oncology (Radiation Therapy).

ACVS: American College of Veterinary Surgeons. This board defines the standards of surgical excellence for veterinary medicine.According to its website, “Approximately 70 veterinarians earn Diplomate credentials every year. More than 60 percent of the ACVS Diplomates operate in private and specialty practices that accept cases on a referral basis from primary care practitioners. The remainder are primarily employed by academic institutions and industry where they teach, conduct research, practice in teaching hospitals, and participate in the development of new products and treatments which improve the quality of veterinary and human health care.”

ACVSMR: The American College of Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation is another new specialty with provisional recognition by the AVMA AVBS. There are two recognized veterinary specialties: Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (Canine) and Veterinary Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation (Equine).

ACZM: The American College of Zoological Medicine certifies veterinarians with expertise in zoological medicine, addressing the care of captive zoo animals, free ranging wildlife species, aquatic animals, birds, reptiles and amphibians, and non-domestic companion animals. Zoological medicine incorporates principles of ecology, wildlife conservation, and veterinary medicine.

AVDC: Diplomates of the American Veterinary Dental College have training in advanced veterinary dentistry, including diagnosis of oral problems, malocclusions and orthodontics, crowns, endodontic (gum) disease, and anesthesia.

In the next installment, we’ll look at training and behavior “letters.”

Barbara Dobbins, a former dog trainer, writes about dogs and studies canine ethology. She lives in the Bay Area with her Border Collie, Duncan.

Train Your Dog Using Imitation

I remember, years ago, confidently and assertively telling my training academy students “Dogs don’t learn through imitation.” But, degree by degree, I’ve been proven to be wrong. I’m taking it well, however, because the studies that have established this ability in dogs are so exciting, and their implications have expanded our ability to train and communicate with our dogs so much.

First, there was the 1997 study in which some litters of puppies were allowed to watch their narcotics detection dog mothers while working in a real-life work environment, while other litters of puppies did not. When the pups were six months old, the pups who watched their mothers at work learned the task more easily and quickly than the pups who did not watch.

Later, Ken Ramirez, currently the executive vice president of animal collections and training at Chicago’s world-famous Shedd Aquarium, demonstrated how he taught his dog that the cue “Copy!” means “Do what that other dog just did.” When he shared his “Copy!” procedure at Karen Pryor’s Clicker Expo in 2011, the dog training world sat up and took notice.

Now there is an exciting new development in the study of canine cognition, thanks to Italian PhD ethologist Claudia Fugazza, who is currently studying at Eotvos Lorand University in Budapest, conducting research on social learning and imitation with Professor Adam Miklosi. Fugazza has developed a training method she calls “Do As I Do,” which relies on a dog’s social cognitive skills to learn new behaviors by imitating humans. Did you get that? Fugazza tells us that dogs can learn new behaviors by imitating human behavior.

According to Fugazza, using her training protocol, owners can teach new behaviors to their dogs by simply showing them what to do. Then they can put the new behavior on cue.

This flies in the face of everything I have learned in the past. It makes sound biological/survival sense that dogs could and should be able to imitate each other’s behavior. But imitate the behavior of an entirely different species? Seriously?

Skeptic that I am, I ordered the DVD and was completely and totally gobsmacked. I was so taken by the procedure I immediately determined to try it with one of my dogs, Bonnie, an eight-year-old Scorgidoodle.

A Little Prep Work

It was a humbling experience. For starters, your dog has to know at least three behaviors (other than “Sit!”) on verbal cue – without any body prompting, gestures, or even a sideways shift of the eyes. This is necessary in order to avoid inadvertently giving him a very subtle cue to perform (see “The Clever Hans Phenomenon“).

dog training imitation

For Bonnie, I selected the behaviors “Down,” “Tap,” (touch an Easy Button with a paw), and “Up” (step up and sit on a “Stepper”). I discovered that “Down” was solidly on verbal cue, but we needed some work on “Tap” and “Up” to fade the very natural, subtle but unacceptable body prompts. After several brush-up sessions focusing on those two verbal cues, we were ready to proceed.

How Dogs Learn to Imitate

Bonnie needed to learn the “imitation rule” (Phase 1). That is, whatever behavior I do, followed by the cue “Copy!” means “You are supposed to do the same behavior.” (I chose to use “Copy!” rather than Fugazza’s suggested cue of “Do it!” because I use “Do it” to initiate the “101 Things to Do With a Prop” game.)

I stood in front of Bonnie, told her to “Wait,” and then did the behavior myself (either push the button, step up and sit on the Stepper, or lie down facing her). Then I returned and gave the “Copy!” cue, followed by the verbal cue for the behavior I had just performed, without any body-language prompting. In theory, the association between repetitions of “Copy!” and the verbal cue for the behavior that was just demonstrated, teaches the dog that “Copy!” means “Do whatever I just did.” Would it work for Bonnie?

Well . . . eventually. Because the behaviors that I had selected for her weren’t as solidly on verbal cue as I had hoped (other than the “Down”), we worked through several permutations of “Copy!”, “Cue!”, and waiting to see what she did. She tended to offer the three behaviors somewhat randomly at first; alternatively, she’d sit and wait, looking at me hopefully for further instructions. Each time I got an incorrect response (or no response) I started over: cued her to “Wait” while I performed the behavior, returned to stand in front of her and said “Copy!”, followed by the appropriate verbal cue. It wasn’t until our third practice session that I began to see glimmers of understanding; hesitantly at first, then with growing confidence, Bonnie would perform the correct cued behavior.

dog training imitation

When I could see that she knew what to do before I gave her the cue for the behavior, I stopped using the cue, using only the “Copy” cue after performing the behavior myself. At first, she seemed confused, and went back to offering random behaviors. If she offered the correct one she got a click-and-treat and very happy praise. If she offered an incorrect behavior I simply reset her, performed the behavior again, returned to stand in front of her, and gave the “Copy!” cue. It was exciting to watch as her correct responses gradually began to outnumber the incorrect ones. I could see she was beginning to understand the “rule.”

I had watched several dogs try to learn the rule on the Do As I Do DVD. Some were brilliant, apparently grasping the imitation rule after just a couple of sessions. Others were still struggling at the end of the two-day seminar. Of course, I assumed Bonnie would exhibit the “brilliant” end of the rule-learning continuum, but in all honesty she was more just slightly toward the brilliant side of center. Or maybe I was the one who was less than brilliant; it was easy to see on the DVD that the dogs with the more skillful trainers learned the rule more quickly. Hmm…

In my defense, the trainers on the DVD had Fugazza herself coaching them. In contrast, I was stumbling around on my own, trying to remember what I had watched, and occasionally hearing bits of Fugazza’s charming Italian accent in my mind’s ear saying, “Mmmm… You ges-turd weeth yur eyez!” when I caught myself glancing at the “easy” button along with my “Copy!” cue.

dog training imitation

Nevertheless, despite my ineptitude, Bonnie did seem to catch on to the imitation rule after three days, with several sessions per day. Although we weren’t flawless, we were about 90 percent by the end of the third day; nine out of ten times when I would perform the behavior myself, return to stand in front of her, and then give her the “Copy!” cue, she would perform the behavior.

We’re ready to start Phase 2 (generalization of the rule), adding three more behaviors that Bonnie already knows. These do not have to strictly on verbal cue – apparently that’s most important for the first three behaviors. After the next three are solid, we’ll move on to the very exciting Phase 3, where we will see if Bonnie can copy behaviors that she hasn’t previously been taught. Then we will copy behavior sequences. Woo hoo!

Fugazza believes that her “Do As I Do” method has great potential for application in training, with possibilities for quickly teaching dogs new behaviors, including shaping. Whether or not that proves to be true, it’s great fun to have a new training challenge for me and my dogs. I’m already planning to offer “Copy That” workshops in 2014. Can your dog copy that?

The Clever Hans Phenomenon

[Updated February 5, 2019]

Clever Hans was a German horse in the early 1900s who was supposedly able to solve math problems and perform other amazing tasks. His owner, math teacher, amateur horse trainer, and mystic Wilhelm von Osten, said Hans could add, subtract, multiply, divide, work with fractions, tell time, keep track of the calendar, differentiate musical tones, and read, spell, and understand German. When given a math problem either orally or in writing, Hans would answer by tapping his hoof.

As a result of the large amount of public interest in Clever Hans, the German board of education appointed a commission to investigate von Osten’s scientific claims. The panel, known as the Hans Commission, consisted of 13 people, including a veterinarian, a circus manager, a Cavalry officer, a number of school teachers, and the director of the Berlin zoological gardens. This commission concluded in September 1904 that no tricks were involved in Hans’s performance.

The commission’s findings were handed off to Oskar Pfungst, a German comparative biologist and psychologist. Using multiple trials, Pfungst found that Hans could get the correct answer even if von Osten himself did not ask the questions, ruling out the possibility of fraud. However, the horse got the right answer only when the questioner knew what the answer was, and the horse could see the questioner. Pfungst determined that when von Osten knew the answers to the questions, Hans got 89 percent of the answers correct, but when von Osten did not know the answers to the questions, Hans only answered six percent of the questions correctly.

Pfungst then examined the behavior of the questioner. His examination determined that as Hans’s taps approached the right answer, the questioner’s posture and facial expression showed an increase in tension, then relaxed when the horse made the final, correct tap. This body language provided a cue that Hans used to know when to stop tapping. Pfungst believed that van Osten really thought Hans was answering the questions, and was not deliberately perpetrating a fraud.

Thanks to Clever Hans, today when an animal touted to be brilliant is suspected of responding to the handler’s unintentional cues, it’s referred to as the Clever Hans phenomenon. Also thanks to Clever Hans, researchers created processes such as “double-blind study” for preventing non-human and human animals from responding from unintended cues given by the researchers to their subjects.

Clever Hans may not really have been able to do math, but it was certainly very clever of him to figure out how to read human body language well enough to answer the questions correctly and, no doubt, be reinforced for it.

Alternative Treatment & Supplement Recommendations

Whole Dog Journal readers often try techniques and products described in the magazine, but sometimes years go by before we need something we read about, or it disappears from the market, or we have trouble finding it, or we simply forget all about it. Last month we revisited green tripe, Seacure, and Willard Water. Here are two more go-to products featured in previous issues that might now be perfect for you and your dog.

As we reported seven years ago (in “Accelerated Wound Healing,” WDJ August 2006), many products are marketed as a first-aid kit in a tube, jar, or bottle, but EMT Gel truly lives up to that description.

EMT Gel’s key ingredient, bovine collagen (also described as “a natural medical hydrolysate Type I collagen”), acts as a tissue adhesive, providing a matrix for new cell growth while sealing and protecting wounds and significantly reducing pain, bleeding, scarring, wound weeping, and the risk of infection.

Once applied, EMT Gel can be left undisturbed, which simplifies dressing changes. The collagen forms a plug that stops bleeding by encouraging clotting, and its occlusion of nerve endings reduces pain. Veterinarians in research universities and clinical practice recommend EMT Gel for abrasions, lacerations, skin ulcers, gunshot wounds, bites, first- and second-degree burns, electrical injuries, frostbite, post-surgical incisions, suture and IV sites, skin graft sites, bleeding ear injuries, skinned elbows, and other wounds.

According to its manufacturer, EMT Gel reduces bleeding, promotes rapid healing, reduces pain and itching, deodorizes wounds, protects wounds and newly formed tissue, provides an optimal environment for wound healing, is easy to use and cost-effective, conforms to wounds of all shapes and sizes, is naturally absorbent, has excellent adhesion qualities, is safe, non-toxic, and non-sensitizing, and can be used on all animals. Some users routinely apply it to their own injuries.

EMT Gel is sold in 1-ounce tubes and has a two-year shelf life.

A spray-on version (EMT Gel Spray) is available for the treatment of scrapes, first- and second-degree burns, scratches, lick granulomas, hot spots, and other skin injuries. In addition to wound-healing collagen, the nontoxic spray contains a bitter taste (Bitrex®, or denatonium benzoate) which deters many dogs from licking it off.

Websites featuring EMT Gel and Spray publish testimonials from users who credit the products with saving their dogs’ lives or at least making them more comfortable.

One of the happy users in our 2006 article was Shannon Rogers-Peisert of Liberty, Missouri, whose black Labrador Retriever, Cody, severed an artery while jumping a fence. “There was blood everywhere,” she says. “I had a sample tube of EMT Gel and thought to use it before taking Cody to the emergency clinic. The vet said it kept Cody from bleeding to death.”

In New Mexico in 2002, Troy Sparks spent quail season’s opening day hunting with Lucy, his Llewellyn Setter. When they returned to the truck, he noticed a blood clot on Lucy’s neck, and as he began to clean the wound, blood poured down her neck. Sparks applied EMT Gel, gauze, and vet wrap to hold it in place, then drove to Lucy’s veterinarian two hours away. When the vet removed the dressing, a six-inch stream of blood shot out. After getting stitches, Lucy recovered quickly.

In Athens, Georgia, Kevin Johnston competes in field trials with German Shorthaired Pointers. As Johnston’s mother, Linda Lowe, explained, “Lefty, who runs and quarters faster and harder than any dog we have ever owned, was running in a trial on grounds that were very hard and rocky. Lefty ran on Saturday. On his first point on Sunday, he held up a bleeding foot. All four of his feet had very raw pads, with some injuries as large as quarters.”

Johnston had recently competed in a Dog of the Year trial at which he was given a sample of EMT Gel. He cleaned Lefty’s paw pads with saline solution and applied EMT Gel, a procedure he repeated the next day. “We were sure Lefty would not be able to compete for several weeks,” said Lowe, “but within two days he was much better and after four days, his paw pads seemed to be completely healed. We were very impressed with how quickly this product worked.”

Warren Befort of Burlington, Kansas, reported that his 4-year-old pointer, Angie, is a prolific bird dog but prone to injury. “On several occasions,” he said, “she has cut herself in the field, requiring a visit to the vet to get sewn up. In the past, the trip to town could mean significant blood loss and lots of anguish.”

After reading about EMT Gel, Befort decided to keep a tube on hand. “The last time Angie sliced her tail,” he said, “the cut was over an inch long and fairly deep. I immediately broke out the EMT Gel, applied a liberal amount to the wound, covered it with gauze, and wrapped it with elastic tape. By the next morning the wound was noticeably better. I am now convinced not to go anywhere with Angie without taking the EMT Gel, too.”

BEST USE
To use EMT Gel, clean the wound by rinsing it with plain water or a saline solution; then apply the gel to the wound and the surrounding area. Allow superficial wounds to air-dry and, for deeper wounds, cover with a non-stick dressing. If using the spray, keep it away from the dog’s eyes and nose because of its bitter-tasting ingredient.

EMT Gel and Spray should be stored at room temperature and protected from freezing. Extreme heat may affect the gel’s viscosity but not its performance.

EMT Gel can be messy and may not stop heavy bleeding unless pressure is applied to the wound, and the spray can be slow to dry. In some cases, possibly because the product was old and because plain gauze rather than a non-stick dressing was used, the gel stuck like glue to paw pads or other injuries as well as to the gauze. Not all dogs are deterred by the spray’s bitter taste, in which case lick granulomas and similar wounds can be protected with bandaging or the use of an Elizabethan collar until the wound heals. Most users report good results for both the gel and spray on superficial wounds and wounds that are easily accessed.

Digestive Enzymes

Most WDJ readers are familiar with digestive enzymes, protein-like compounds that, in small amounts, speed biological reactions in the digestive process.

But enzymes do much more than react with food in the digestive tract. Many enzymes are cultivated for use in industrial processes, medical testing, food production, and as ingredients in household products such as pet stain removers, laundry detergents, toothpaste, and facial cleansers. Enzymes cause seeds to sprout, flowers to blossom, plants to grow, autumn leaves to change color, and fruits to ripen. Living animals manufacture thousands of enzymes for various functions throughout their bodies.

Some enzymes – called systemic oral enzymes – are swallowed and then absorbed into the bloodstream, where they affect the entire body, removing inflammation at its source and improving a variety of conditions. These include pancreatin, a pancreatic enzyme; papain, derived from papayas; and bromelain, derived from pineapples. Taken between meals, they move past the stomach to the small intestine, from which they travel throughout the body.

When we explored systemic oral enzyme therapy in January 2001 (“Enzyme Therapy for Quicker Canine Injury Recovery”) and October 2005 (“A Digestive Enzyme Supplement Helps Dogs Recover from Illness and Injury”), the leading brand for human and pet use was Wobenzym N, then manufactured by Naturally Vitamins, Inc.

Wobenzym N (which is usually referred to simply as Wobenzym) was developed in the 1950s in the United States by Drs. Max Wolf and Helen Benitez of Columbia University, who named the product “wo” for Wolf, “ben” for Benitez, and “zym” for enzymes. Their research showed that proteolytic (protein-digesting) enzymes have four significant properties when circulating through the body: they reduce inflammation, break down harmful fibrous tissue, reduce blood viscosity to prevent harmful clotting without the adverse side effects of aspirin and other blood-thinning medications, and support immune function.

Despite its benefits, Wobenzym did not become a successful over-the-counter remedy until it moved to Germany, where only aspirin outsells it. Wobenzym is also the most thoroughly researched enzyme supplement available worldwide, having been tested in over 100 medical studies and clinical trials, most of them conducted in Europe.

Wobenzym is recommended for bruises, sprains, and all types of sports injuries as well as arthritis and any illness that involves inflammation. The bioflavonoid rutin, one of Wobenzym’s ingredients, prevents the discoloration and pain associated with bruises. German surgeons routinely prescribe Wobenzym to prevent bruising, swelling, edema, and pain. It significantly reduces post-surgical recovery time, and German hospitals give large amounts to those with serious injuries to prevent brain swelling and speed recovery.

FORMS AND TYPES
For many years Wobenzym was available as beige tablets with a clear coating (a sugar-free product developed for the American market) and as red tablets containing a small amount of sugar in their coating (the European version). The red tablets were also sold under the brand name Fido-Wobenzym for use with dogs.

After our articles appeared, Naturally Vitamins replaced Wobenzym with Medizyme, which contains the same formula. Fido Wobenzym disappeared and was replaced by Medizyme Fido. Wobenzym N is now sold by the supplement maker Garden of Life and by Douglas Laboratories, which calls it Mucos Pharma Wobenzym N.

In addition to Wobenzym N, both Garden of Life and Douglas Laboratories sell the original German formula, Wobenzym PS, which stands for Professional Strength.

Wobenzym N, Medizym, and Medizym Fido contain the same six enzyme ingredients in identical proportions while Wobenzym PS contains only three enzymes. All are protected by enteric coatings that survive stomach acid and break down in the small intestine. (To compare products, scroll down and click on the “Comparing Ingredients” link.)

FlavenZym by VitaCost contains the same six enzymes as Wobenzym N and Medizym, though in slightly different proportions. Of the products described here, FlavenZym is the least expensive. Search online for proteolytic enzymes, systemic oral enzyme therapy, or enteric-coated enzymes and you’ll find additional products as well.

WHAT THEY DO
Systemic oral enzymes taken between meals on an empty stomach once or twice per day:

– Support the body’s natural inflammation response, resulting in reduced pain and swelling.

– Increase flexibility, mobility, strength, and range of motion.

– Support joint and tendon health.

– Temporarily relieve aches, pains, and muscle soreness resulting from everyday activities.

– Reduce recovery time after sports injuries, accidents, or surgery.

– Normalize blood flow at injury sites, resulting in rapid healing and the reduction of pain.

– Improve oxygenation and the reduction of edema (fluid retention and swelling).

– Reduce scarring.

– Improve respiratory problems, seasonal allergies, and sinus infections.

In addition, some human and veterinary studies have found that systemic oral enzyme therapy helps slow or prevent the spread of cancer.

DOSING YOUR DOG
For maximum effectiveness, systemic oral enzymes should be taken on an empty stomach at least 45 minutes to one hour before meals or at least one to two hours after.

When adapting over-the-counter human enzyme products for canine use, consider your dog’s weight. Label directions are appropriate for a 100-pound human. Considering the well-documented safety of enzyme products (note the cautions below before using), proportions can be approximate. For dogs over 80 pounds, the human dose is likely to be effective and well tolerated. For dogs weighing 50 pounds, cut the dosage in half; for those weighing 25 pounds, use one-fourth of the recommended amount. See all of the recommendations and cautions presented here before deciding on a specific product and dose.

Labels on single-ingredient products like bromelain and pancreatin sold as digestive enzymes give dosages for use with food. In addition to using these enzymes with food, the same dosage twice or three times per day between meals is appropriate for systemic therapy.

Experts disagree as to whether enteric-coated tablets taken between meals work better than capsules, as uncoated pancreatin and bromelain capsules have been shown to be effective by themselves. Some dog owners use both strategies – enzyme powders with food and enzymes in uncoated or enteric-coated capsules between meals – to be sure their dogs receive the support they need, especially while recovering from an illness or injury. For convenience, digestive enzyme powders can be placed into empty two-part capsules, which are sold in natural food markets.

CAUTIONS & SIDE EFFECTS
Oral enzyme products can be problematic for any dog who is allergic to beef (Bos taurus), pork (Sus scrofa), papaya (Carica papaya), pineapple (Ananas comosus), or any other food-source ingredient. If your dog has specific allergies, check product labels or contact manufacturers to verify ingredients and their sources. Many dogs with seasonal allergies and food sensitivities have improved as a result of taking enzymes both with food and between meals, but it’s a good idea to try a small first dose and check for adverse reactions before increasing to therapeutic levels.

Dogs with bleeding disorders should not take systemic oral enzymes because they reduce clotting and thin the blood. For the same reason, large doses are not recommended immediately before surgery. Those whose dogs have a serious illness, such as liver disease, or are pregnant or nursing should consult a veterinarian before giving enzymes between meals. Digestive enzymes given with food at recommended maintenance doses are usually safe for dogs with clotting disorders and other illnesses because they interact with the body the same way that enzymes in raw food do. Follow label directions and, if in doubt, consult a holistic veterinarian.

In some cases, human patients taking very high doses of systemic oral enzymes have developed a buildup of uric acid, a waste product from protein breakdown, in the urine or blood. Allergic reactions, bleeding disorders, and uric acid buildup are rare side effects. More common are temporary reactions that disappear when the therapy is discontinued or the dosage is reduced, including minor changes in the patient’s stool and/or gastrointestinal disturbances such as flatulence, nausea, diarrhea, or a feeling of fullness.

Our 2005 article quoted Beverly Cappel, DVM, of Chestnut Ridge, New York, who had recently conducted a double-blind placebo-controlled crossover study of Wobenzym N (Fido-Wobenzym) in the care and management of canine arthritis. Sixty dogs diagnosed with various types of arthritis were divided into two groups and given Fido-Wobenzym or identical placebo tablets for six to nine weeks. The study tested doses of one tablet twice per day or two tablets twice per day.

“This was a placebo-controlled trial,” said Dr. Cappel, “but it was obvious which dogs were taking the Wobenzym. They were the ones who stopped limping soon after the study started and were able to go for longer walks. Their owners noted that these dogs appeared to have much less pain. They started acting like young dogs again. A key benefit was the reduction of inflammation. Several patients who responded well were older dogs who were having trouble getting up or couldn’t do stairs or would only go for very short walks. Being able to get up the stairs again or go for longer walks – those are priceless benefits. After the study concluded, many owners came in for refills.”

However, Dr. Cappel reported that some dogs in her study developed platelet problems. She first noticed symptoms in patients whose owners were already giving them Wobenzym for arthritis or cancer at doses higher than Fido-Wobenzym’s label recommendation. She said that Wobenzym is not likely to produce adverse effects at doses of up to two tablets twice per day (four tablets daily), but as a precaution, she recommended no more than three tablets per day, which she considered very safe. Owners of dogs taking higher amounts, such as six or more tablets daily, should watch for any of the following symptoms, which might indicate platelet problems, internal bleeding, or anemia: small blood spots on the gums, pale gums, any abnormal bleeding, or bloodshot eyes.

None of Dr. Cappel’s patients who developed platelet problems became sufficiently anemic to develop white or pale gums. The problem, which occurred in male and female dogs of different ages, breeds, sizes, and conditions, several of whom ate a raw home-prepared diet, developed within the first six weeks of daily supplementation with Wobenzym. Immediately reducing the dose or stopping the product resolved these symptoms.

Enteric-coated capsules should be swallowed whole, not chewed. Powders, such as digestive enzymes or bromelain, can be mixed with a small amount of water and given between meals, but it’s usually easier to dose a dog with tablets or capsules. If your dog is hard to pill, give tablets or capsules with the smallest amount of food your dog will swallow. For best results, try to get your dog to drink a few ounces of water with each dose. Refrain from giving snacks or training treats within an hour of using systemic oral enzymes.

Enzymes are easily damaged by heat. For example, bromelain powder retains its enzyme activity for 10 years or more if refrigerated but is inactivated in just a few hours if stored near a hot oven or sunny window. Always store enzyme products in a cool, dry location.

TREATING SPECIFIC CONDITIONS
Systemic oral enzyme therapy has a general or tonic effect that improves conditions throughout the body, so instead of treating a single problem or illness, it addresses several. A dog with heart disease, arthritis, infected gums, and an ear hematoma is likely to improve in all of these areas, not just one. In fact, our hypothetical patient will probably experience improved digestion, faster wound healing, brighter eyes, and a calmer, more focused personality, especially if the therapy is continued for several months.

To treat acute injuries, sprains, bruises, contusions, hematomas, pulled muscles, abrasions, broken bones, and burns, give twice the maintenance dose for several days, or consider the protocol described in the next section, checking to be sure your dog is not developing any of the bleeding symptoms mentioned earlier. In general, frequent, small doses are more effective than single large ones, so consider dividing the dose throughout the day. Healing will occur as the injury is cleared of damaged tissue, congestion, and debris. When there is noticeable improvement, reduce the dosage to maintenance levels.

For chronic joint conditions such as arthritis, tendonitis, and hip or elbow dysplasia, give the maintenance dose twice per day. Conditions that develop slowly over time take longer to clear than sudden injuries. When the animal shows significant improvement, gradually switch to the recommended maintenance dose and continue indefinitely. If the maintenance dose is used, give it twice as often as recommended, or increase the dosage as well as frequency until symptoms improve. For acute infections, such as bronchitis, use larger doses; for chronic allergies, continue the maintenance dose for several months.

Dogs recover quickly from spaying, neutering, oral surgery, elective surgery, and emergency surgery with the help of enzyme supplements. Taken for a month or more before the operation, maintenance doses help prepare the body for healing.

Because enzymes thin the blood and help prevent clotting, some experts warn against using these supplements for 7 to 10 days before and after surgery. Others suggest using the maintenance dose until a day or two before surgery, then resuming it a day or two after. And some vets (see below) prescribe enzymes before and after surgery without interruption. Discontinuing oral enzymes reduces the risk of hemorrhage, but it increases the likelihood of swelling, pain, and other conditions. For best results, consult a holistic veterinarian and consider the patient’s physical condition, medical history, and type of surgery. (As noted above, dogs with clotting disorders should not take enzymes between meals.)

ONE VET’S PROTOCOL
Our 2005 article interviewed Mary Foster Rodriguez, DVM, of Gainesville, Florida. Since 2000, she has prescribed systemic oral enzymes for dogs with arthritis, hip dysplasia, injuries, skin and coat problems, autoimmune disorders, and any condition that involves inflammation. Although she prescribes much higher doses those on the label, she reports that her patients have yet to experience any platelet problems or signs of anemia. “I’ve given Wobenzym and now Medizym to hundreds of dogs, most of whom I see regularly,” she says. “Some have been taking it every day for many years. Other than dogs with bleeding disorders, the only situation where I wouldn’t use systemic oral enzymes would be if the dog has a stomach ulcer, which is rare but can result from taking certain medications.”

Several years ago Elliott, a large 13-year-old terrier-mix with hip dysplasia and severe arthritis in both knees, slipped on a hardwood floor and couldn’t get up. His owner, Leanne Lawrence, took him to three veterinarians, all of whom recommended that Elliott be euthanized to put him out of his misery. Then she found Dr. Foster Rodriguez, who makes house calls.

“I always carried Wobenzym with me in those days,” says Dr. Foster Rodriguez, “just as I always carry Medizym today, and as soon as I saw Elliot, I started him on five tablets per hour. I also had Leanne encourage him to stand and walk on a safe, carpeted surface, because motion often helps dogs with his condition feel better. Just after his third dose, he and Leanne were walking down the street.”

Elliot resumed his active life, even though he was diagnosed with bone cancer at 15. “I treated him homeopathically and holistically,” says Dr. Foster Rodriguez, “and the bone tumor went away. It really amazed the veterinarian who did his biopsy, along with everyone else. Elliot finally died in his sleep at age 17.”

For most conditions Dr. Foster Rodriguez starts canine patients with one tablet per 10 pounds of body weight up to a maximum of five tablets at a time given twice or three times per day.

“In a serious condition where the dog is badly injured or can’t move because of pain,” she says, “I’ll give that amount more often, every one or two hours. As soon as the dog responds, I study his symptoms and look for physical comfort, improved range of motion, increased playfulness, and similar improvements. Once I see those changes, I wait a longer period before giving more. I also start reducing the dose as the dog improves, which might be within a few days or weeks, depending on the patient. Once the dog is on a daily dose that produces good results, we continue it for several weeks before cutting back. I teach clients to monitor their dogs by paying close attention to all of the possible variables.”

Dr. Foster Rodriguez monitors a dog’s odor as well as symptoms such as loose stool or diarrhea to determine whether a saturation dose has been reached. “The odor is distinctive,” she says, “and it affects the skin, breath, and feces. If a dog smells something like cat urine, I know it’s time to reduce the dose because the dog is consuming more than her body can utilize.”

To determine whether a reduced initial or maintenance dose can be effective, she reduces the amount by one or two tablets in each divided dose during the day and continues at that rate unless symptoms recur. If a dog begins limping or shows other symptoms, she increases the dose again.

“I’ve noticed that the longer dogs are on a maintenance dose of Medizym, the fewer crises they have,” she said. “It seems to prevent injuries as well as treat them. And the Medizym dogs recover much faster from surgery. I watch for post-operation swelling but that seldom occurs in dogs taking Medizym. If they aren’t already taking it, I recommend giving one tablet per 10 pounds of body weight, up to a maximum of five tablets at a time for larger dogs, for a week or two before elective surgery.

“I don’t know what I’d do without Medizym,” she concludes. “As far as I’m concerned, it’s a miracle.”