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How to Create Just a Little More Physical Space Between You and Your Dog (When You Want It)

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0

Do you live with a canine space invader? These are the dogs who always seem to be in your way – under your feet, blocking your path, nudging a nose under your hand as you try to type on your laptop, pressing tightly up against you as you share the sofa. They are often sweet, appeasing, attention-loving snugglers, so it’s hard to discourage the behaviors, but they can also get annoying. I know this all too well, as Bonnie, our appeasing, beguiling, attention-loving, 9-year-old “Scorgidoodle” (Scottie/Corgi/Poodle), is an exceptionally talented space hog.

get your dog out of your face

Despite what you may have heard, space invaders are not motivated by dominance. Your dog is not taking your space in a pre-emptive strike to take over the world. Usually, dogs who affectionately crowd you are simply seeking your attention, and have discovered that the best way to get it is to be in your space.

Although the behavior can be annoying, it can also be endearing (“Aww, look how much my dog loves me!”), and the dog often gets reinforced for it. I’m as guilty as the next dog owner; I often pet Bonnie when she inserts her nose under my hand or squeezes herself as closely to me as she can on the sofa.

Since the behaviors sometimes get reinforced – behavior geeks call this an “intermittent schedule of reinforcement” – it’s devilishly difficult to stop them, because your dog knows that sooner or later the behaviors will, indeed, succeed in gaining your attention. (When it’s hard to make a behavior go away, behavior geeks call this “resistant to extinction”.) So she keeps trying until it finally works.

The good news is that you don’t have to make the behaviors go away. Instead, just teach your dog to respond to “incompatible behaviors” on cue – that is, behaviors she can’t do at the same time she’s hogging space. I taught Bonnie several incompatible behaviors, and we get along just fine: I can indulge in giving her attention when I feel like it, and ask her to do something else when I don’t.

Incompatible Behaviors

There is a long list of behaviors I could ask my dog to do when she’s being a space invader. Here are some of my favorites:

– Back up – This cue is useful for space-hog dogs who like to park themselves directly in your path. It’s easy and convenient to be able to cue your dog and have her move politely out of your way! You can “capture” the behavior (click and treat when she happens to back up); use a toy or food lure to entice her into backing up; or lure/shape the “Back up” behavior.

To lure, hold a treat at your dog’s nose, then move it down and toward her breastbone. As she leans or steps backward to follow it, click and treat. (Don’t push her back; let her step back on her own.) When she will lure backward easily, add the “Back” cue.

To fade the lure, say the cue, pause to let her think about it (click and treat if she leans or steps back!), and only then should you lure if necessary. Gradually reduce the amount of luring, giving her plenty of time to figure out what you asked for with your cue, until she will back up on the cue alone, with the treat delivered afterward as her reward.

To lure/shape, place a chair against a wall and stand in front of it (with your back to the chair) and with your dog in front of and facing you. Toss a treat between your legs (under the chair) and invite your dog to get it. The goal is to get her to crawl under the chair and then back out, so you can click (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) when she backs up. Then, immediately toss the next treat (the one your promised her, for the click) under the chair again.

Repeat this until the process is working smoothly; then add your “Back” cue just before she backs out from under the chair.

Occasionally do a test run, where you feed the treat directly to her instead of tossing it under the chair, and then just wait to see if she offers a step back. If she does, click and treat, then do several more repetitions of tossing the treat under the chair. As she gets better about offering a step back, you can move away from the chair, stop tossing the treat between your legs, and shape for an increasing number of steps backward.

– Touch – One of the most useful applications of “Touch” (teaching your dog to target her nose to your hand) is to position your dog without having to physically move her.

Space-hog dogs are notoriously good at using the “opposition reflex,” wherein they resist if you try to push or pull them out of the way. (The scientific name for this phenomenon is “thigmotaxis.”) When your dog knows the cue to touch her nose to your hand, you can easily move her out of your way by positioning your target hand off to your side and asking her to “Touch.”

To teach “Touch,” stand or sit with your dog in front of you, offering your open palm four to six inches away from her nose, at nose level or slightly below, with your fingers pointed toward the floor. If she sniffs your hand, click (or say “Yes!”) and give her a treat. If she doesn’t move toward your hand to sniff, rub a little tasty treat on your palm to tempt her to sniff. Repeat until she is deliberately bumping her nose into your palm to make you click and give her a treat. Then add the cue “Touch” as you offer your hand.

When she clearly understands “Touch” in this presentation, position your hand in varying spots and ask her to Touch. You can even move your hand away as she follows it, to position her even farther away from her original location. The better she gets at this, the easier it is to move her wherever you want her without having to physically position her.

 – Off – “Off” means “If you’re on something (like the sofa), I want you to hop off.” I use this one with Bonnie when she’s too persistent about snuggling on the sofa and nudging my laptop-typing hands or inserting her head under my elbow, or when I want her to vacate our shared space so I can eat my dinner. When she has hopped off, I might ask her to “Go lie down” (our equivalent of “Go to your mat”) or “Wait!” to prevent her from immediately hopping back up.

It’s quite simple to teach “Off.” Pick a surface where your dog is allowed to be, such as a bed or sofa, and invite her “Up!” Lure with a treat if necessary. Once she is up, invite her “Off!” and toss a yummy treat on the floor. You can click or use a “Yes!” marker each time she hops on and off the furniture on cue. Sometimes, ask her to “Wait” and reinforce this behavior at each location, so she doesn’t develop an “up-off-up-off” behavior chain.

In short order, your dog should be jumping on and off on cue, and you can reward her with a treat after the fact, instead of using the treat to lure. In time, you can “fade” the use of the treat (use it less and less often) so that you reward her with a treat only occasionally, or you can do as I do and continue to reinforce with a treat most or all of the time.

– Find It – This is the easiest exercise to teach, ever. To play the “Find it” game with your dog, say, “Find it!” and toss a tasty treat on the floor near you. If she can’t find it, tap your toe on the floor near the treat. Repeat until she perks up at the “Find it!” cue and looks for the treats on her own. Then start tossing treats farther away after you say, “Find it!” Once she knows the cue, you can say, “Find it!” and toss a treat when you need to move her out of your way.

This can also be a fun way to exercise your dog: Toss a treat as far as you can to your left, and after she runs and eats that one, toss another as far as you can to your right. You can feed an entire meal to her this way! You can also toss a favorite toy to get your dog to vacate your space – though she’s likely to bring it back and ask you to toss it again!

– Go to Your Mat – This is another method for asking your dog to move out of your way. By teaching her a cue that means “go lie down on your bed,” you can get her to go to a specific location – which removes her from your space. My dog Bonnie’s cue for this is “Go lie down.” When she hears this cue, she will find the nearest dog bed in our house and lie down on it. You can lure or shape your dog’s “Go to your mat” behavior.

To lure, call your dog over to a bed or throw rug you have obtained for this purpose. Say, “Go to bed” (or whatever word or phrase you plan to use). Either lure her to the bed with a treat held in your hand, or place a treat on the bed and encourage her to go to it and eat it. Click and give her a treat (or say, “Yes!” and give her a treat) when she does it; then ask her to “Down” and click and treat for that.

Do this a number of times until you think your dog is beginning to associate your cue with going to and lying down on the bed. Then you can start occasionally asking for the behavior without the lure. Click and give a treat when your dog complies.

You can also request a “Wait” so your dog doesn’t pop right back up from the rug. When she is doing this part well, start asking for the behavior when you are farther away from the bed. Ultimately, you should be able to ask your dog to go to her bed from anywhere in the house, which effectively removes her from your space.

To shape this behavior, you simply set up an environment that will allow your dog to easily do the desired behavior, and then click and treat for very tiny steps in the right direction, until you have shaped the entire behavior. Shaping is a fun game; it teaches your dog to think and learn, and encourages her to try to figure out what you want her to do.

Start by standing with your dog within about four to six feet from a rug or mat on the floor. Your dog can be on leash or off leash if she will stay with you and keep playing the shaping game. Watch her closely. Click and treat for any behavior associated with the rug. If she looks at or toward it, click and treat. Click and treat if she takes a step toward the rug, or even if she just leans or turns her head toward it.

When she starts moving toward the rug, even ever so slightly, click (or “Yes!”)and then toss the treat on the floor several feet away from the mat, so she can “reset” herself. In other words, you want her to move away from the mat so she can move back toward the mat (on cue)again. Watch for her movements to start becoming very deliberate – when you can see she understands that moving toward the mat is what makes you click and give her a treat. When she is moving to the rug routinely, start shaping her to sit and then lie down on it.

– Wait – You can use “Wait” to stop your dog from moving into your space in the first place, or to hold her in place when you have successfully asked her to remove herself from your space. It’s like a pause button – not as formal as a “Stay” cue.

The following are two ways to teach “Wait.” Both will teach your dog that “Wait” means “Pause,” and once she knows that you can generalize it to other situations (such as when you see her approaching and you know she’s going to get in your space by jumping on you, parking herself in front of you, or jumping up on the sofa).

Wait for Food:

With your dog sitting at your side, holding her food bowl at chest level and tell her to “Wait.” Move the food bowl (with food it in, topped with tasty treats) about four to six inches toward the floor. If your dog remains sitting, click, raise the bowl back up, and feed her a treat from the bowl. If your dog gets up as you lower the bowl, say “Oops!”, raise the bowl, and ask her to sit again.

If she remains sitting each time you lower the bowl four to six inches, lower the bowl eight to 12 inches. If she holds the sit, click and treat. Repeat this step several times until she consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl. Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with successive repetitions until you can place it on the floor without your dog trying to get up or eat it.

Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell her she can eat! After she has had a few bites, pick up the bowl and try again, lowering the bowl a little farther this time. Repeat these steps until you can place the bowl on the floor and she doesn’t move until you tell her she may.

Wait at the door:

With your dog sitting at your side near a door, tell her to “Wait.” Reach for the doorknob. Click and give her a treat if she doesn’t move. Repeat this step several times. Then jiggle the door knob. Click and reward your dog for not moving. Repeat several times. Slowly open the door a crack. Again, click and reward if she doesn’t move. Repeat several times.

If at any time she does move toward the door, say, “Oops!” and close the door (or, if you haven’t even opened the door yet, just bring your hand back to your side and start over).

Gradually open the door wider on each attempt. When your dog has remained sitting and “waiting” (and you have clicked and rewarded her for doing so) several times with the door all the way open, she’s ready for the next step. Ask her to “Wait,” open the door, and then walk through the door, stopping and facing your dog immediately afterward. Wait a few seconds, click (or “Yes!”), and then return to your dog and give her a treat. Of course, you can still invite her to go through the door any time you want!

More Than One Way 

So there you go – a variety of ways to help your dog learn how to give you some space on cue. Because she gets rewarded for each of them, and makes you happy in the process, she should enjoy complying with your requests for space. Choose the methods that appeal to you (or choose them all) and get to work . . . but don’t forget to save a least a little time for snuggling with your dog, too!

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog-training classes and courses for trainers.

Dog Gear of the Year 2015

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

We asked WDJ’s contributors for their recommendations for “things they can’t imagine living without” in their dog-care kits – their favorite dog toys, training tools, and treats. Here are some of the products that made their lists of things that they must have for their dogs. 

Toys From Clean Run

I tried, but I just can’t choose only one of the fantastic training toys offered by Clean Run to feature here; I have half a dozen of them, and I use them as super-special, high-value rewards when I am training my dog to perform new or difficult tasks.

Clean Run is an online store that specializes in unique, well-made products for people who are active in canine performance sports – things that you cannot find in chain pet supply stores. Toys made of synthetic fleece, plastic, or rubber will engage most dogs to a point. But when you want to capture the attention of a distracted or unmotivated dog, and engage his interest in – nay, passion for – playing a training game, you need a toy that is sturdily made with sheepskin, rabbit fur, or buffalo leather.

Clean Run dog toys

Clean Run offers dozens of such toys, in designs that can do whatever you need them to do: contain hidden bits of aromatic food treats (like the leather TugAway Tuff Pouch Tug, $13), provide you with a strong handle for a vigorous and rewarding game of tug with your dog (like the TugAway 2-Handled Buffalo Tuff Tug, made with buffalo leather, $16), fly through the air (like the TugAway Fur Flinger, made with leather and rabbit fur, $19), or supply the singularly enjoyable (to a dog) mouth-feel of a wooly sheep (like the Ram-Tuff Wooly Chaser, made with real sheepskin, $13).  

Keep in mind that these toys are not intended to be given to a dog to entertain himself for hours; they are meant to be doled out as a high-value reward for short bits of interactive play and then taken away again. The less your dog has them in his possession, the more he will want them. And because they are made with natural materials, he will want them a lot, from the very first moment he smells them.

Go to the Clean Run website, then click on toys (under dog supplies). And just see if you can buy just one or two toys; it’s so hard to choose when there are so many great products to choose from.

– Nancy Kerns

Clean Run Toys – $13 to $19

Clean Run
South Hadley, MA
(800) 311-6503

Dr. Shawn’s Itch Relief Organic Shampoo

I don’t wash my dogs that often, perhaps once a month.  So I want a shampoo that will make Otto’s coat clean, soft, and smelling good, without drying his skin (and making him itch) or conditioning Tito’s fur to the point of greasiness. Also, I expect my dogs to continue to look and smell clean for at least a few weeks after their baths.

Dr. Shawn's herbal itch relief pet shampoo

Maybe that’s asking too much- because a lot of the dog shampoos I’ve tried fail at some important part of my wish list.  For example, one product cleans them well, but leaves their coats full of static electricity, so that their loose hair flies around and magnetically sticks to everything.  Another one is difficult to rinse out completely, giving my dogs an oily look and feel after just a few days.

My quest for a superior dog shampoo leads me to try each and every shampoo that comes into my office unsolicited and every new natural product I see in pet supply stores. But in recent months, I’ve found myself reaching for the same bottle again and again; my quest may have ended with this product, which was formulated by holistic veterinarian Shawn Messonier. It doesn’t over-lather, yet gets the dogs really clean, and because it’s made with organic coconut oil, it’s gentle on Otto’s often-irritated skin (he suffers from environmental allergies in the spring and fall). The product contains lemongrass and lavender, so it smells divine, and it contains no artificial colors or fragrances, or sulfates. 

– Nancy Kerns

Dr. Shawn’s Itch Relief Organic Shampoo, 16 OZ. – $13
Dr. Shawn’s Naturals
Plano, TX
(972) 867-8800

Karate Belt Leashes

upcycle karate belt dog leash

Reduce, reuse, recycle – and now, re-leash. Georgia-based Upcycled Hound transforms karate belts into enviably thick and long dog leashes. Super-soft on your hands and correspondingly strong, the leashes come in all traditional martial-arts colors, from beginner white to the proverbial black belt, and a rainbow in between. Best of all, they’re machine washable.  You can purchase the leashes as a set with a matching martingale-style collar, and embellish them with embroidery and ribbon trim.

upcycle karate belt dog leash

In addition to color and embroidery, options include an O-ring slip lead or snap (if you choose a model with a snap, you also may choose the size and material of the snap – brass or nickel); length (from two to eight feet); and whether you want a single or double handle (the double handle has a second loop sewn in near the leash snap for increased control when you need to restrain a dog right at your side). The Karate Belt Leashes are made from recycled martial-arts belts, so sizes, widths, colors, and wear patterns vary; some even have original labels from their former lives. An Upcycled Hound label is stitched to all leashes, and all work on the leashes is done locally, never outsourced outside the country.

– Denise Flaim

Starting at $20.
Upcycled Hound
Atlanta, GA
(770) 969-4572

 “Dog Sport Skills” Book Series

When you are as into dog training as I am, it’s easy to build a vast library of training-related books. The first two books in the developing “Dog Sports Skills” series by Denise Fenzi and Deborah Jones, PhD, can easily replace a whole shelf full of lesser-quality books in order to clearly and rationally explain the how our dogs learn, and how to use that information to teach our dogs specific behaviors.

At the core of the series is the authors’ desire to help people create meaningful, rewarding relationships with their dogs, whether or not they aspire to set foot in a competition ring, or simply wish to enjoy basic “manners” training at a deeper level. Developing Engagement & Relationship does an excellent job of explaining the true value and importance of building solid dog-handler relationships as a means of fostering willing engagement, while Motivation thoroughly explores how to build on your relationship with your dog by not only understanding what motivates him, but also, how to humanely and respectfully leverage that motivation to support your desired performance.

Adding to the books’ value is the use of a variety of photos and case studies depicting dogs of all shapes, sizes, and skill sets. The inclusiveness of such a variety of dogs is refreshing and supports the idea that success is possible whether or not you train one of the so-called “performance breeds.”  

The forthcoming third book will address the nuts and bolts of play. Having built a foundation based on relationship, motivation, and play, readers will then be ready for future books, said to offer a systematic approach to training the various skills required for AKC obedience and rally. In the meantime, those wanting to know more about Fenzi and Jones, both highly accomplished competition exhibitors, can check out the Fenzi Dog Sports Academy, an online training school for a variety of competition dog sports.

– Stephanie Colman 

Fenzi Dog Sports Academy
Woodside, CA

RuffWear’s Front Range Harness

Because of my Border Collie Duncan’s senior age and arthritis, I decided to seek out a different kind of harness for him. I was thrilled to find RuffWear’s new Front Range Harness. I was immediately drawn to it for its design: instead of straps wrapping around shoulders and torso, the Front Range Harness uses padded chest and belly panels that help to distribute any tension that can occur when using a leash. Even better, it does not inhibit a dog’s range of motion and thus avoids the dog having to compromise his gait – making it an ideal harness for off-leash runs and hikes, as well as leisurely walks, with no rubbing straps!

The harness is super easy to put on: it slips over the head and then fastens with two buckles along the back. Not only are there four points for adjustment (two at the neck and two around the belly), there’s this nifty little stretch mechanism sewn into the belly portion that provides a little give when you’re buckling up. Dog is in the details! There’s a pouch on the back piece for identification tags; a secured inner loop easily attaches to tags and the pouch closes tightly with Velcro. There is even an additional ID spot on the inside of the belly panel with space to write your dog’s “trail” name and your phone number. The harness comes in five sizes and four attractive colors.

With two leash attachment points – reinforced webbing at the chest and an aluminum ring on the back – the harness is versatile for dogs of varying activity levels. The harness can even act as a no-pull device when the leash is attached to the front point. This point is also a perfect spot to attach a safety light; that, combined with the reflective trim, makes it a good option for nighttime outings. 

– Barbara Dobbins

RuffWear
Bend, OR 
(888)783-3932

 

Aromis Essential Oil Diffusers

Aromis herbal diffuser for pets


Essential oils are one of my go-to modalities: When I hear that telltale kennel-cough hack, out come my bottles of eucalyptus oil; if there’s doggie anxiety afoot, it’s lavender essential oil to the rescue. (I use Young Living oils; be sure any oil you use is labeled “therapeutic grade.”) Diffusing these potent aromatics into the air is a wonderful way to unlock their healing powers – not to mention, make the house smell great. Since I keep my diffusers on tabletops, they can’t look frumpy, and on that score Aromis satisfies my aesthetic imperative. The company’s diffusion units have sleek wooden bases and stylish glass diffuser bottles, as well as a built-in timer feature (choose from one, four, or eight-hour run times, or continuous). Since the diffuser bottles are delicate (and the least expensive part of the unit), I always order a spare, just in case.

– Denise Flaim

Aromis Diffusers, $99
Aromis, Ltd.
Longmont, CO
(720) 341-6376

Note: The Aromis website has terrific information on why diffusers are the ideal way to dispense therapeutic essential oils in your home, and how to use and maintain them.

WoofTrax

How about a free piece of “gear” that benefits you, your dog, and your favorite city shelter or rescue organization? WoofTrax is a fitness tracker app that motivates you to walk (or run or bike with) your dogs, while raising money for a shelter or rescue group of your choice.

Clean Run dog toys

0)]

The WoofTrax app is available for free in the Apple App Store and on Google Play. After you create a profile, it allows you to upload pictures and information for each dog you walk, as well as designate a shelter or rescue as beneficiary. 

An easy-to-follow interface has users select which dogs will join them for the activity and start the GPS tracker. Like any fitness app that uses GPS, the tracking requires data for the duration of the activity, so it’s important to be mindful of your mobile phone’s data limits and potential overage charges, especially if tracking lengthy daily treks. At the end of a walk, run, or ride, a setting allows the app to auto-save information, and users have the option to promote their activity using Twitter or Facebook. The app also saves the user’s history, and offers updated information about the number of users, number of walks, and total mileage logged on behalf of your designated shelter or rescue. Since WoofTrax’s revenue is ad-based, the amount donated to each shelter depends more on the number of people walking on behalf of an organization and the number of walks taken than the distance traveled per walk. According to CEO Doug Hexter, more than 100,000 users have downloaded the app, helping the company donate roughly $65,000 to its more than 4,500 registered shelters and rescues since its inception in fall 2013. City shelters and registered 501(c)(3) rescues can apply to become beneficiaries through the website.

January is National Walk Your Dog Month! Lace up your shoes, leash up your dog, and hit the road to better health and fitness while supporting your local shelter or rescue. 

– Stephanie Colman
WoofTrax – free!
WoofTrax
Baltimore, MD
(607) 216-9757
wooftrax.com

Teddy the Dog

I’m a t-shirt and jeans kind of woman, and I love a cute and clever dog t-shirt. Teddy the Dog hits the mark. The handsome and cool Teddy – he’s always wearing sunglasses – can be seen tracking muddy paw prints across a shirt that reads, “Dirty Dogs Have More Fun,” and hanging with a pig on the limited-edition “Don’t Go Bacon My Heart” t-shirt. Fan of the Hunger Games? There’s even “Dogniss: Tribute from District K9.”

Clean Run dog toys

1)]

The tag-free t-shirts are 100 percent garment-dyed cotton. Most of the designs are printed on men’s t-shirts. Fewer are available in women’s sizes/styles, hoodies, and youth sizes. A word about sizing: The men’s shirts run big and long. I actually took scissors to one of mine after mistakenly ordering a men’s XL. Just because I want my shirt to be big around, doesn’t mean I want to wear it as a dress. Teddy the Dog also offers throw blankets, beach towels, and a few accessories.

Clean Run dog toys

2)]

In addition to the clever designs, Teddy the Dog leads the pack in customer appreciation. Part of what makes Teddy the Dog so fun is the frequency with which new designs appear. The company regularly solicits customer input about new designs through opportunities to vote via Facebook or online surveys, and emails announcing new designs (usually with a discount code) seem to come with just the right frequency to keep me feeling up to date, but not feeling spammed. Two thumbs and four paws up.

– Stephanie Colman

T-shirts starting at $24 
Teddy the Dog
Needham, MA
(800) 628-9065 x108

Aromis Essential Oil Diffusers

Clean Run dog toys


Essential oils are one of my go-to modalities: When I hear that telltale kennel-cough hack, out come my bottles of eucalyptus oil; if there’s doggie anxiety afoot, it’s lavender essential oil to the rescue. (I use Young Living oils; be sure any oil you use is labeled “therapeutic grade.”) Diffusing these potent aromatics into the air is a wonderful way to unlock their healing powers – not to mention, make the house smell great. Since I keep my diffusers on tabletops, they can’t look frumpy, and on that score Aromis satisfies my aesthetic imperative. The company’s diffusion units have sleek wooden bases and stylish glass diffuser bottles, as well as a built-in timer feature (choose from one, four, or eight-hour run times, or continuous). Since the diffuser bottles are delicate (and the least expensive part of the unit), I always order a spare, just in case.

– Denise Flaim

Aromis Diffusers, $99
Aromis, Ltd.
Longmont, CO
(720) 341-6376
aromis.co

Note: The Aromis website has terrific information on why diffusers are the ideal way to dispense therapeutic essential oils in your home, and how to use and maintain them.

WoofTrax

How about a free piece of “gear” that benefits you, your dog, and your favorite city shelter or rescue organization? WoofTrax is a fitness tracker app that motivates you to walk (or run or bike with) your dogs, while raising money for a shelter or rescue group of your choice.

Dr. Shawn's herbal itch relief pet shampoo

The WoofTrax app is available for free in the Apple App Store and on Google Play. After you create a profile, it allows you to upload pictures and information for each dog you walk, as well as designate a shelter or rescue as beneficiary.

An easy-to-follow interface has users select which dogs will join them for the activity and start the GPS tracker. Like any fitness app that uses GPS, the tracking requires data for the duration of the activity, so it’s important to be mindful of your mobile phone’s data limits and potential overage charges, especially if tracking lengthy daily treks. At the end of a walk, run, or ride, a setting allows the app to auto-save information, and users have the option to promote their activity using Twitter or Facebook. The app also saves the user’s history, and offers updated information about the number of users, number of walks, and total mileage logged on behalf of your designated shelter or rescue. Since WoofTrax’s revenue is ad-based, the amount donated to each shelter depends more on the number of people walking on behalf of an organization and the number of walks taken than the distance traveled per walk. According to CEO Doug Hexter, more than 100,000 users have downloaded the app, helping the company donate roughly $65,000 to its more than 4,500 registered shelters and rescues since its inception in fall 2013. City shelters and registered 501(c)(3) rescues can apply to become beneficiaries through the website.

January is National Walk Your Dog Month! Lace up your shoes, leash up your dog, and hit the road to better health and fitness while supporting your local shelter or rescue.

– Stephanie Colman
WoofTrax – free!
WoofTrax
Baltimore, MD
(607) 216-9757
wooftrax.com

Teddy the Dog

I’m a t-shirt and jeans kind of woman, and I love a cute and clever dog t-shirt. Teddy the Dog hits the mark. The handsome and cool Teddy – he’s always wearing sunglasses – can be seen tracking muddy paw prints across a shirt that reads, “Dirty Dogs Have More Fun,” and hanging with a pig on the limited-edition “Don’t Go Bacon My Heart” t-shirt. Fan of the Hunger Games? There’s even “Dogniss: Tribute from District K9.”

upcycle karate belt dog leash

The tag-free t-shirts are 100 percent garment-dyed cotton. Most of the designs are printed on men’s t-shirts. Fewer are available in women’s sizes/styles, hoodies, and youth sizes. A word about sizing: The men’s shirts run big and long. I actually took scissors to one of mine after mistakenly ordering a men’s XL. Just because I want my shirt to be big around, doesn’t mean I want to wear it as a dress. Teddy the Dog also offers throw blankets, beach towels, and a few accessories.

upcycle karate belt dog leash

In addition to the clever designs, Teddy the Dog leads the pack in customer appreciation. Part of what makes Teddy the Dog so fun is the frequency with which new designs appear. The company regularly solicits customer input about new designs through opportunities to vote via Facebook or online surveys, and emails announcing new designs (usually with a discount code) seem to come with just the right frequency to keep me feeling up to date, but not feeling spammed. Two thumbs and four paws up.

– Stephanie Colman

T-shirts starting at $24
Teddy the Dog
Needham, MA
(800) 628-9065 x108
teddythedog.com

 

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Nancy Kerns
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It’s Always Something

By
Nancy Kerns
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Here’s the biggest problem concerning pet insurance for many of us dog owners: the more dogs (or total pets) you have, the less it seems to make sense. If only there was a company that offered some sort of “pack” insurance that you could apply to whichever one of your pets most needed care.

I have two cats and two dogs. If I bought insurance for all four, the cost of the premiums and co-pays (or, depending on the insurance company, the percentage of any bill that the company does not cover) would exceed the total cost of veterinary care that I provide for them most years.

My pets are not even the whole problem.

I also have covered the cost of care needed by relatives’ dogs. My son’s dog has had a couple of costly visits this year, and given that my son was in his last semester of college, and then an unemployed recent graduate, I picked up the cost. Another relative’s tiny dog badly needed a dental cleaning and some tooth extractions (which were necessary due to years of neglect, due to money woes). I paid for the work, because I see this sweet dog often and couldn’t stand for her to be in so much discomfort. A few months later, the same dog was attacked (in her yard!) by two large loose dogs, and badly mauled. She had a broken scapula and bites down to the bone. My relative could not begin to pay for the care. I picked up the tab for that emergency visit and hospitalization, too.

I also have an additional challenge: I also foster for a financially strapped shelter. I do not ask them to reimburse me for veterinary care that I have sought for the dogs and puppies (and very occasional kittens) that I foster. The shelter provides the basics: antibiotics if the animal is sick, vaccinations, spay/neuter surgery, and basic first aid care if something happens (or, more commonly, we discover something medically wrong) with the dog I’m fostering.

There have been a number of cases when my foster dog or puppy needed extraordinary care – but if the animal had been an ordinary shelter ward, not being cared for in my home, the shelter would have likely taken a “wait and see” approach, or at least, a far less extensive (perhaps overprotective!) approach than I took. For example, when I accidently kicked (as I was walking, holding a pan of water, and couldn’t see) one of the puppies I fostered this summer, and he was in a lot of pain, and holding up one leg for over 12 hours after the incident, I took him to my veterinarian for x-rays. I’m certain the shelter staff would have recommended waiting. But if something had been broken or dislocated (nothing was, as it turned out), I would have wanted him to be casted or splinted or operated on or something! It was hard enough living with myself watching him hop about on three legs for days without also wondering whether something was broken.  So that’s money well spent, in my mind.

But, obviously, these sorts of expenses add up!

Last week, my dog Tito was playing with a tennis ball when he suddenly shrieked and began pawing frantically at his mouth. A moment later, he spit something out: a fragment of a tooth. And not just any fragment: the piece looked like a perfect slice of an entire molar, from tip to root. He had a slab fracture of a molar; it had to be removed. And since dental x-rays were needed, we found that he had a retained puppy tooth in his jaw that the vet thought should be removed, along with the root of a front bottom incisor (that I thought he had lost altogether, but it turns out, had just broken off, bad owner!), and the incisors next to that root, which were all loose from damage to the bone . . . and since he was going to be “out” and on the table anyway, it only made sense to clean his teeth. I was pleased that the total was only about $800, and to know that he’s going to fell far better now. But given that I was mentally allocating my next veterinary spending to be on Otto (he needs his teeth cleaned) – darn it!

Anyway, I guess I’m whining; I’ll stop. This has been an extraordinary year for veterinary care, and I’m glad to be able to (sort of) afford it (the credit card balance has proven extraordinarily difficult to reduce this year). If this is the price of caring about so many wonderful dogs, I’ll pay it. I just hope next year is a little easier!

How to Tell If Your Dog Has Hip Dysplasia

By
Nancy Kerns
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[Updated February 7, 2018]

My six-month-old Rottweiler has a goofy, bouncy walk. Does that mean she has hip dysplasia?

happy dogs

A lot of puppies – especially big, gangly ones – have a clumsy, bumbling gait, and this does not mean they have hip dysplasia. If your puppy had a hip dysplasia, you might notice that she limps sometimes, especially after strenuous exercise. You might hear or feel her hips “click” in and out, or notice that she stands and walks with her hocks or hind feet very close together. You might notice her struggling to push herself up into a standing position when she’s lying down, or she might have trouble climbing stairs.

The way vets assess a puppy for hip dysplasia is by looking for a limp as the puppy walks and runs, then checking whether the hip can easily be pushed out of position in the socket (this feels like a “click” and is called the Ortolani sign).

If there’s a suspicion of a problem – or if owners simply want more information – x-rays can be taken to check for hip dysplasia. Although a six-month-old puppy whose hips looked normal on plain x-rays might still develop hip dysplasia later, signs of the disease are often visible at this age. These x-rays are taken with the dog lying on her back in a frog-leg position. The puppy is sedated for a few minutes while the x-rays are taken. Sedation is required to relax the hip and thigh muscles and keep the dog in proper position for accurate x-rays. These x-rays can also be taken while a pup is under anesthesia for spaying or neutering.

On the x-rays, the vet will look at whether the head of the femur is smooth and round and fits snugly into the pelvis. In a puppy with severe hip dysplasia, the head of the femur may be out of the socket, or it may be obviously flat or misshapen.

Looseness in the hip joint – another sign of dysplasia – is measured by PennHIP x-rays. Very loose hips are a sign of dysplasia, and a good indication that a dog will develop arthritis over time.

You have a puppy of a breed that is known to have a high incidence of hip dysplasia, and you’re obviously concerned about it. If you haven’t already asked your vet to evaluate the puppy for hip dysplasia, I encourage you to do so. If her hips are normal, you’ll be reassured, and if they are abnormal, you’ll have surgical options for correcting the problem before arthritis sets in.

For answers to all your canine health questions – big and small – buy The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M from Whole Dog Journal.

Does Your Dog Have a Drinking Problem?

By
Nancy Kerns
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I’m lucky to have two dogs, one small and one large, who can come galloping into the house from a hard romp, run to the water bowl, and drink their fill, and hardly leave a drop on the floor. 

I’m reminded of how lucky I am every time my son’s dog comes to visit – as I move the water bowl outside and grab the first of a series of “dog towels” from the bottom shelf of the linen closet, the stained, frayed-edge, holey towels kept just for dog baths and… well, this! Cole is incapable of drinking even a little without redistributing half of it around the kitchen. It wasn’t such a big deal in summer – it’s so dry here, the water would evaporate in no time. But now, with cold floors and me walking around in socks… Darn it, Cole!

I mentioned a while ago that I had a lot of visiting dogs for Thanksgiving, including a Boxer. She gets forgiven for the sloppy drinking. I don’t know how a dog with that sort of lippy anatomy can drink without half of the water going every which way. Cole’s problem is not anatomical; though he’s at least half hound, his lips aren’t pendulous enough to be the cause of his problem. He’s more of a stylistically poor drinker — a distracted drinker. If anything, and I mean anything, crosses his brain while he’s drinking, he will walk away from the bowl to investigate that thought, even as his tongue still churns and water pours from his mouth. He’s such a dork!

My friend Christine was telling me the other day, as we watched her big dog Bronco slurping water all over my deck outside, that when he was a puppy, he would always stand in the water with his two front feet when he was drinking. And then, of course, not only drool the water all over her kitchen, but also track it all over on his big paws, too. She tried putting the bowl up on a stepstool – once. Splash! Well, it’s a good way to get a person to mop the floor. It probably needed it anyway. Fortunately, he’s now too large to reach the bowl while his feet are in it.

I just saw this video on the New York Times site, footage from a study in which researchers are examining slow-motion footage to see exactly how dogs pull water into their mouths. After watching it, I’m amazed they manage to get much water down their throats at all!

Does your dog have a drinking problem? Would you like to talk about it?

Puppies at the Supermarket

By
Nancy Kerns
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As I approached the front of the supermarket, I saw about six or seven people standing in a circle. Uh oh, I thought, and sure enough: There was a couple there with three pit-mix puppies. The pups looked like they were about 8 weeks old; they had the pudgy, unformed bodies and the stoic/exhausted expressions of very young pups.

“Are you selling them or giving them away?” I asked. The man answered, “Selling them! $50 apiece. They’re purebred Pits!”

Never mind the “purebred Pits” claim . . . what do we do about people who persist in producing and selling dogs in this manner? With zero regard for whether the buyers are ready or equipped to properly care for a spur-of-the-moment puppy acquisition.

I had a strong impulse to tell the people fawning over the puppies that the puppies at the local shelter are the same price, but they have been spayed/neutered, vaccinated, dewormed, and microchipped. Whereas these ones – goodness knows whether they’ve ever had a single vaccine, or if their mom has ever had a single vaccine. And the price of all that care from the local vets would run them at least $300. But I was tired; it was Sunday night and I had worked all day, and I just needed a few items from the store so I could make something for dinner.

I have the pleasure of being acquainted with our town’s sole full-time animal control officer. Of course, he was off-duty on a Sunday night, and would be called out only by the police and only for an animal-related emergency. I texted him from inside the market, just on the off-chance that he, too, was out shopping for dinner and would take it upon himself to have a little chat with the puppy sellers. In California, it *is* actually against the law to sell dogs in this way. But this is not a priority call for any overworked small-town cop on a Sunday night, and the officer (fortunately for him) was snug at home. He texted back, “You can tell them they are in violation of 597.4 – but they are probably out there on a Sunday night knowing that the cops won’t come.”

There are a number of things I could have done to try to convince the couple not to breed and sell dogs in this way, but I just went home and stewed. When I wonder why we can’t ever seem to stem the incoming tide of unwanted and/or accidentally produced puppies and dogs at the shelter where I volunteer, I’ll try to write down the things I should have said and done, for those three tired young puppies, their mom, and all the other irresponsibly owned dogs out there.

 

Addendum: As I attached this file to email it to WDJ’s Web Master, so it would be posted on this blog site, I happened to see another file labeled Puppies on the Roadside — a blog I wrote about another, similar event — dated 12/6/2011. My resolve to respond better and more energetically to these events is now hardened.

Thanks For Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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First, of course: Otto my wonder dog. I could not be more thankful for this dog, I really couldn’t. It’s incredible to me that I’ve been lucky enough to have two “heart dogs” in my adult lifetime. Otto and his predecessor (Rupert the Border Collie, who passed away at the age of 14 in late 2003) could not be more different in appearance and temperament, but both of them have been so generously present for me. Both dogs have seen me through some tough times for me and my family, and I’m grateful for their constant companionship, soulful comfort when needed, and readiness for fun and adventure all the rest of the time. Border Collie owners are accustomed to their dogs watching them constantly, and so I accepted the ever-present scrutiny from Rupert, but I have to admit that it is a little unnerving to have a dog with no BC traits whatsoever being so sensitive to so much as a hitch in my breath or my tone of voice as I talk on the phone; Otto detects any emotional instability at all and offers himself to me immediately. “Here I am, pet me, it’s going to be okay,” he seems to say. And so far, with his help, it has been. Thank you, Otto.

Also present: Tito, the Chihuahua who came to spend a few weeks a few years ago. He’s small, he’s loud, and he’ll take on the biggest, baddest dog in town – as long as there is a nice sturdy fence between them. If there is a bigger, cushier dog bed in the room, he’s on it, no matter who he has to menace to get it, and if you are thinking about taking away his bone before he’s done with it – well, let’s just say the only way you are going to get it is with steak, or maybe a tennis ball. He’s an outsized character in a little dog disguise and he’s not here to provide for my emotional comfort or anyone else’s; what’s a guy gotta do to get dinner served, and is that ALL? Sheesh!

Back under my table, unhappily, but making do: Mary, one of my former fosters. No, she’s not being returned – and I’m as sure as the sun will rise tomorrow that’s never going to happen. She’s here because her new owner had emergency surgery last week. She was at work, and felt horrible, and decided she needed to leave work and go to the emergency room. But before she went to the ER, she went home to feed and let the dog outside, because she was afraid that she would be a long time and she didn’t want the dog to be uncomfortable or worried… and that’s probably about the time her appendix ruptured, while she was home, taking care of her dog. I don’t know how she made it from there to the ER, but I do know that people were telling her to let go of her phone as she was being prepped for surgery; I know because she was calling me to ask if I could please go get Mary out of her house and take care of the dog for a few days. Now, I know that Mary has no way of understanding that her owner cares about her so much that she risked her own life in order to take care of Mary’s needs before taking care of her own, but I’ve been trying to explain it to her while giving her as much comfort as I can while her owner recuperates. If we’re all lucky, her owner will be released from the hospital just after Thanksgiving. She and Mary will need no greater celebration than to sleep together again in their own home.

I have two sisters. One of them, the dog-crazy one, lives about four hours away from me. She’s also a chef, and she often cooks Thanksgiving dinner at my house; I have a bigger kitchen, and she has serious skills. This year, she is caring for her husband, who is having hip replacement surgery as I write this, so while ordinarily she and her husband and their three little dogs would be joining us, they, too, are sitting out the holiday to recover from surgery.

Instead, the one person in my family who doesn’t have a dog and doesn’t ever want a dog, my other sister, who lives several large states to the right of me… She’s coming, and bringing a dog. WHAT? Well, it’s her young adult daughter’s little dog, and her daughter is working long hours through the holiday, and so we will be joined by Riot, a darling young Chihuahua with next to zero training. Young adult with new career, working long hours, plus young exuberant dog? I plan to spend the week that my sister will be visiting helping Riot with remedial potty training, a default “sit” (sit when you don’t know what else you should do), and “shush” – what I consider a prerequisite foundation behavior for small dogs. Riot training is scheduled to begin exactly one minute after she arrives.

Sadie, my daughter-in-law’s little dog, a reputed miniature Schnauzer, will be around, but not likely at dinner. I adore her, she’s incredibly sweet, but our “shush” lessons have paid dividends only in small groups. She gets aroused and anxious in crowds, and with all the family members we’re expecting, all bets are off. She is tiny and delicate, but her aroused barking is the most shrill, ear-piercing sound you can imagine. If you could bottle it, you could stop real riots with it. So she’s uninvited, but no skin off her nose, because she lives just blocks away and will be without company for just a few hours. We’ll save her some turkey, I’m sure.

Finally, we will welcome the newest member of the family: just days ago, my husband’s brother and sister-in-law adopted Rosie, a three-year-old Boxer from a Boxer rescue group. She’ll get preferential treatment and management, to protect her from being overwhelmed with the travel and rapid changes in venue. I’ll check her ID tag as soon as she gets here, to make sure it has my in-laws’ cell numbers on it (this often gets overlooked in all the excitement of adoptions) and will put up special “Close the gate!” signs on all of my yard gates. Newly adopted dogs are at super high risk of bolting in the first week or two, so we will be super careful.

Have a happy and safe Thanksgiving! And please give your dogs a little treat, not too fatty, from all of us at WDJ.

(The Culture Clash Tip #1) The Dominance Panacea

By
Jean Donaldson
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One model that has been put forth as a quasi-justification for the use of aversives in training is pack theory. Ever since the linear hierarchy was postulated in wolves, dog people have gone cuckoo in their efforts to explain every conceivable dog behavior and human – dog interaction in terms of “dominance.” We really latched onto that one. It is a great example of a successful meme. Dogs misbehave or are disobedient because they haven’t been shown who’s boss. You must be the “alpha” in your “pack.” Aside from amounting to yet another justification for aversives – oriented training methods – the dog is supposedly staying up nights thinking up ways to stage a coup so you’d better keep him in his pace with plenty of coercion – dominance has provided a panacea – like explanation for dog – behaviors.

For the owner, this simple explanation makes unnecessary the work of boning up on a myriad of other topics, like how animals learn. Notions like dogs rushing through doors ahead of their owners or pulling on a leash to exert dominance over their owners are too stupid for words. Some poor people have it so backwards that they view appeasement behaviors such as jumping up to lick or pawing as dominance displays and thus fair game for aversive training. The dominance panacea is, once again, a case of leaping to a conclusion before ruling out more obvious explanations. Dogs chew furniture because what else could furniture possibly be for? They are disobedient because they have no idea what is being asked of them, are undermotivated to comply, or something else has won the behavioral gambit at that moment in time, like a fleeing squirrel. Rank is not likely on their minds.

From Jean Donaldson’s thought-provoking book, The Culture Clash, dog owners will learn and get a better understanding of the relationship between dogs and humans. Purchase The Culture Clash from Whole Dog Journal today. 

(The Culture Clash Tip #2) Tug Of War

By
Jean Donaldson
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Dog owners have been admonished for decades by trainers, breeders and veterinarians to never play tug of war with their dogs because it risks increasing aggression and/or dominance in the dog. I think they’ve muddled predatory behavior, which tug actually is, with agnostic (conflict resolution) behavior, which tug is not. Played with rules, tug of war is a tremendous predatory energy burner and good exercise for both dog and owner. Like structured roughhousing, it servers as a good barometer of the kind of control you have over the dog, most importantly over his jaws. The game doesn’t make the dog a predator; he already is one. The game is an outlet.

Tug, or any vigorous activity for that matter, played without rules or functioning human brain cells is potentially dangerous. But the baby has been thrown out with the bath water in this case: why deprive dogs and owners of one of the best energy burners and outlets there is? It’s good because it is intense, increases dog focus and confidence, and plugs into something very deep inside dogs. The owner becomes the source of a potent reinforcing activity, and there is a payoff in terms of lowered incidence of behavior problems due to understimulation. It’s also extremely efficient for the owner in terms of space and time requirements, and it can be used as a convenient reinforcement option in obedience.

The “tug might make him more dominant” argument is extremely lame. The implication is that dogs or wolves ascertain rank by grabbing the ends of an object and tugging to see who “wins”. If anything, the best description of tug is that it is cooperative behavior. It’s not you vs. the dog, it’s you and the dog vs. the tug of war toy. When you’re playing tug of war with a dog and he “wins,” the game rather than leaving and hoarding. You have control of the supreme, ultimate reinforcer here: the ability to make the toy appear to resist, to feel like living prey. The dog learns this.

From Jean Donaldson’s thought-provoking book, The Culture Clash, dog owners will learn and get a better understanding of the relationship between dogs and humans, including rules of tug. Purchase The Culture Clash from Whole Dog Journal today. 

(The Culture Clash Tip #3) Barking

By
Jean Donaldson
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Dogs bark for a variety of reasons.

1)    Watchdog Barking serves the dual purpose of alerting other pack members that there is an intruder or change in the environment and warning the intruder that they have been noticed. Dogs bark much more than their ancestors, wolves, who hardly ever bark. In domesticating them, we have selected for more barking. The predisposition to watch-dog bark varies among breeds and individuals. The modifying principles are the same, though, whether you’re trying to coax a little more barking out of a couch potato Newfoundland or tone down barking in a hair – trigger German Shepard or miniature schnauzer.

2)    Request Barking starts off as a behavioral experiment by the dog, kind of a “let’s see what this produces.” Typical requests include opening doors, handouts from your plate, invitations to play attention, and being let out of a crate or confinement area. This behavior is a problem not because the dog tries out the experiment but because the experiment usually succeeds: the owner reinforces the barking by granting the request and a habit is born. Dogs zero in on whatever strategy works.

3)    Spooky Barking occurs when the dog is fearful or uncomfortable about something in the environment. It’s the dog’s way of saying: “Back off – don’t come any closer.” This is much more serious than garden variety watchdog barking because the dog in question is advertising that he is afraid and therefore potentially dangerous if approached.

4)    Boredom Barking can result when the dog’s daily needs for exercise and social and mental stimulation aren’t met. The dog barks compulsively. This is very much like pacing back and forth, tail-chasing or self-mutilation. Chained dogs and dogs left outdoors in yards are at high risk.

From Jean Donaldson’s thought-provoking book, The Culture Clash, dog owners will learn and get a better understanding of the relationship between dogs and humans, including ways to control excessive barking. Purchase The Culture Clash from Whole Dog Journal today. 

(The Culture Clash Tip #4) Jumping Up

By
Jean Donaldson
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A classic culture clash example is greeting rituals: in most human cultures, we shake hands or bow. In dog culture, they buzz around excitedly, lick and sniff each other. The origin of jumping up is in infancy. Wolf pups will jump up to lick the corners of adults’ mouths, triggering the latter to regurgitate food that the puppies can eat. This jumping up and licking is retained into adulthood as a greeting ritual. It’s extremely common in dogs though its root has faded: only a minority of adults regurgitate. Greeting may become exaggerated when dogs live with humans because the social group is continually being fractured, then reunited: we leave and come back a lot, necessitating constant broad rituals. We’re also vertical: the dog wants to get at our face. We also tend to let tiny puppies get away with it and then change the rules when they grow larger.

The main reason dogs jump is that no one has taught them to do otherwise. I’m not talking about punishments like kneeing dogs, pinching their feet or cutting off their air with a strangle collar. This sort of abuse has been the prevailing “treatment” but is inhumane and laden with side-effects. Imagine yourself being kneed in the diaphragm or pushed over backwards for smiling or extending your hand in friendship. It’s not the fault of dogs that their cultural norm is at odds with our greeting preferences.

The key to training dogs not to jump up is to strongly train an alternative behavior that is mutually exclusive to jumping. The dog cannot jump up and sit at the same time. Nor can he dig through walls while working on a chew toy, lie on a mat and annoy dinner guests, or hold eye contact while chasing cars. The applications of this technique – DRI (differential reinforcement of an in compatible behavior, or “operant counterconditioning”) – are limitless.

From Jean Donaldson’s thought-provoking book, The Culture Clash, dog owners will learn and get a better understanding of the relationship between dogs and humans, including ways to control jumping up. Purchase The Culture Clash from Whole Dog Journal today. 

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