Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 126

Download The Full April 2021 Issue PDF

  • HOW TO SUPERVISE A GOOD PUPPY PLAYDATE
  • FI TRACKING COLLAR
  • GABAPENTIN
  • VERBAL CUES
  • SEIZE THE DAYCARE
  • WHAT'S THE RIGHT AGE TO GET THE KIDS A DOG
  • PREVENT EAR INFECTIONS - CLEAN YOUR DOG'S EARS
  • PADDLESPORTS SAFETY
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Netflix’s Canine Intervention Dog Training Show

41
Source: Netflix. Leverette promotes the use of a plywood box (that he sells through his training business website) for teaching dogs to "station." The very thin cord slip-leads shown on the dog in this publicity still photo are frequently shown on the dogs he's shown handling in the show, too.

A few weeks ago, I started seeing posts on social media from dog trainers I know and admire, warning people about a new show on Netflix called “Canine Intervention.” The show features a dog trainer named Jas Leverette, who says, “I help the dogs that no one else will.”

I watched the first three (of six) episodes that currently appear on Netflix, and my first thought was, “Here we go again.”

The show is scripted and filmed like any reality TV show: Fairly ordinary situations are filmed in a way that dramatizes the problems people are having with their dogs, making the dogs seem incredibly dangerous and destructive, and the trainer is engaged in such a way as to appear near-heroic. He’s shown dispensing pithy pearls of dog-training wisdom, with other brief animal-behavior “facts” appearing in type on screen. Within each hour-long episode, the dog’s problems are improved or resolved.

That’s a good thing, right? We all want people to enjoy their dogs more, and to learn how to train them! So why are so many trainers upset about the show?

There are three major issues: The first is that Leverette is a self-described “balanced trainer.” This has come to mean someone who uses food treats, toys, and praise to reinforce behaviors that they want from a dog – and physical “corrections” to punish unwanted behaviors. Though Leverette also describes his training as “modern,” up-to-date training professionals understand that while force-based training can be effective, there are MANY reasons it’s best avoided:

  • Not everyone can make appropriate corrections with the timing required to make them effective
  • Not everyone wants to use force with their dogs
  • Most significantly, poorly timed or inappropriate corrections are nearly guaranteed to worsen the dog’s behavior and increase his frustration, triggering defensive aggression.

But the usual justifications for the use of force are trotted out. In the first episode, a guy described as a tech-business owner has adopted a pit bull-mix who displays aggression with strangers and visitors to the tech-guy’s home. Leverette says, “If we don’t fix this, this dog is not gonna have a long future…. She won’t have a second chance….” The owner agrees. “This is life or death, pretty much, for her.”

This sort of language triggers educated dog trainers. If an owner is motivated, there are always more ways to train a dog in order to “save” them, without having to resort to pain-inducing tools and methods. And in cases of aggression, it’s well-established that the use of pain, force, and fear in training often worsens aggression.

Don’t get me wrong. Leverette is not shown flagrantly inflicting pain on the dogs; he’s a much more skilled trainer than that. It’s just that his methods call for making the dog do what he wants, when he wants – even if the dog is “flooded” and completely “over threshold,” physiologically aroused past a state of being able to learn. Instead, the dogs simply learn to give up and give in to the force being used.

By the way, it’s never called out or shown explicitly, but when you first see each “problem dog,” they are generally wearing wide collars. When Leverette begins work with them, they are wearing very thin cord-like slip collars. This allows the dogs to be controlled with a lot less overt force; it’s too painful and choking to pull or “act like a fool” (as one owner describes his dog’s problematic behavior) with a narrow cord on your throat. Look carefully and you can see that with these collars, resistance is futile for all but the most defensive dogs; they have to submit. This doesn’t mean they are learning anything, however.

Second, Leverette uses a lot of language that more educated trainers eschew as outdated, meaningless, and immaterial to the science of behavior modification. He issues “commands” instead of talking about “cues” for behavior. Families are described as “packs” and owners are encouraged to be “pack leaders.” Though this sounds kind of cool, exactly how this is accomplished is never well articulated. “Dogs need to trust their pack leader,” Leverette says in the first episode. Um, okay… What, exactly, should an owner do to make their dog trust them? How will we know when a dog trusts us? And how will “trust” make him understand what I want when I cue a behavior? It’s just fuzzy language that sounds good, but can’t actually be described in concrete or useful terms.

In his training, Leverette promotes the use of a plywood platform that he calls a “box.” “In my system, the box is an important training tool to teach new behaviors,” he says in the first episode. “It’s also a first step in establishing the pack leadership that’s necessary,” he says, while the on-screen caption echoes this: “Obedience depends on a dog’s trust and respect for their pack leader.” Again, this is ridiculous. All sorts of animals can be trained to do all sorts of behaviors without much knowledge of their handlers at all. (Want examples? See here, and here, and here. I could do this all day!)

Demystified, the use of Leverett’s box is simply using a platform (a mat can be used just as effectively) as a “station” – a place where the dog is heavily reinforced when he returns to it or remains there. Using a platform, box, mat, or Hula-Hoop on the ground and giving the dog a high rate of high-value rewards will reinforce the behavior of going to and staying in that spot – it has nothing to do with trust or leadership whatsoever. You can train a wild animal or bird to do it, if you want to. (Read this article to see how our Training Editor Pat Miller teaches a dog to “go to your mat.” Or this one, for another perspective.)

My third objection: Anyone who actually trains dogs – including Leverette himself – knows that while a skilled trainer can change a dog’s behavior dramatically in a very short time, it takes much longer for the dog to really learn. The goal is to get them to understand what is desired of their behavior when given specific cues and to motivate them to work for the reinforcements they understand will follow if they performs the desired behavior. In an hour-long TV-show format, even if the passage of time is accurately reflected (as when Leverette takes the dog in the first episode back to his business location for a several-week intensive “board and train” experience), when the dog is returned to the owner much improved, it would appear that the trainer is some sort of miracle worker. Most ethical trainers will tell you: With some instruction, if you worked with your dog for the number of hours each day that I can assure you that the TV dog trainer actually worked with the dog, you’d likely look like a miracle worker, too.

As with that other famous TV dog trainer, it makes for good TV when dogs can be shown displaying dramatic, aggressive-seeming behavior – and then transform in the hands of the trainer into much calmer dogs. But we know that pain (from choke, pinch, or shock collars, including the very thin slip collars that Leverette uses on dogs in the show) can be used to quickly suppress a dog’s dramatic response to whatever stimuli has them worked up – and that pain cannot change how they feel about that stimuli. Without having experienced a change in how they feel about the stimuli that stressed them in the first place, if, back at their owner’s home, there is no painful consequence for responding in a dramatic way, then the behavior will return. Suppressed responses will need to be maintained by continued painful consequences.

In contrast, true behavior modification changes how the dog feels about the stimulus, by initially managing his exposure to it while reinforcing his calm behavior and choice to (eventually) ignore the stimulus. He learns a more desirable (to us) behavior and classical conditioning comes along for the ride, as he (eventually) finds a previously stressful stimulus to be enjoyable as he gets reinforced for his better (more desirable to us) choices.

It’s clear that Leverette is knowledgeable about behavior modification; with the dog who bit several of the owner’s friends (in the first episode), he’s shown doing some desensitization with the dog. But the process isn’t explained in accurate terms; it’s all dumbed down into populist garbage talk (in my opinion); when the captions read at one point, “A dog without a pack leader is a dog who will ignore obedience commands,” I wanted to throw things at the TV! Come ON! But I understand that the way I would put it wouldn’t be simplistic enough for TV: A dog who hasn’t been reinforced with things that are valuable to him for responding to consistent cues with specific behaviors won’t respond to those cues!

I have to say, there were some things about the show that I liked. I am very appreciative that Netflix made a show featuring a person of color (Leverette is African-American); many of his clients, too, are people of color. It appears that he mentors, trains, and hires other POC, and is committed to spiritual practice, his community, and his family. He seems like a genuinely good guy. It also seems like Leverette is much more focused on the practice of dog training – actually teaching cues and specific behaviors to his canine students – than the last popular dog-guy on TV, though he, too, was full of all this pack-leader “dominance” baloney. And YES, all this “dominance” talk is absolute hooey. Read this informative statement about training and “dominance” from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

It’s entirely possible that the TV production company that made the show has run roughshod over Leverette, forcing him to reduce his actual training philosophies and techniques into the catchy little sound bites and captions that so offend me and the trainers I know. Whether he believes them or not, though, my fear is that when inexperienced dog owners see and hear dog training reduced to ambiguous statements about “leadership,” all they absorb is that they aren’t being tough enough with their dogs. It’s no different than saying, “You just have to hold your mouth right!”

The problem with “TV trainers” in general is that TV producers want drama – and good dog training is not dramatic! Teaching people to effectively communicate with their dogs, to give the dogs clear direction and quick feedback when they’ve done the “right” thing, may not reduce to a TV-worthy caption or resolve nicely in an hour. But I wish someone in television production would figure out a way to present truly modern dog training in a way that gave viewers basic instruction in easy-to-accomplish, dog-friendly training. It might not garner the kind of ratings that training celebrities’ dogs might earn, but by demystifying the process and breaking it down just like a puppy kindergarten class, it might actually help WAY more dogs and people. 

What Are the Treatment Options For Dogs With Mast Cell Tumors?

3
dogs with mast cell tumors
Photo: johnemac72/Getty Images

Mast cell tumors (MCTs) are the most common form of malignant skin cancer in dogs, accounting for approximately 7% to 21% of all skin tumors. As there is significant variability in the biological presentation from dog to dog and even from tumor to tumor, this form of canine neoplasia is often referred to as “complicated” and “challenging.” 

For more information on the causes of mast cell tumors and how to diagnose them, read our other articles:
Mast Cell Tumors in Dogs: Is It Always Cancer and About Mast Cell Tumors in Dogs.

What are the treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors?

In the June 2019 issue of Whole Dog Journal, we highlighted a few potential treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors undergoing research. Two of those treatment options have shown positive progression.

Nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors

Companion Animal Health continues to explore the use of nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors. The initial data from one study was presented to the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) in 2018 and revealed that 100% of the patients responded to the therapy, with 67% maintaining remission. The treatment combines laser light therapy with gold nanoparticles, which have demonstrated an increased sensitivity to visual and near-infrared light. 

The nanoparticles, administered by intravenous injection, congregate in cancerous tissues. The tumor is then irradiated with laser light, causing the electrons within the nanoparticles to enter into an excited state, which releases energy through heat production. This results in an overheating of the regional tissue, with local cell death and destruction following. This non-surgical, one-time treatment option may allow veterinarians to shrink and stop tumor growth in dogs who have masses in regions where surgery may not possible or entirely successful and has limited to no complications. 

The FDA recently approved STELFONTA

In November 2020, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) approved QBiotic’s STELFONTA for the pharmaceutical treatment for all grades of canine non-metastatic mast cell tumors. STELFONTA is a novel veterinary anticancer product containing tigilanol tailgate (also known as EBC‐46), a compound extracted from the seeds of Fontaine picrosperma (commonly known as the brushwood tree) found in the rainforest of North Queensland, Australia. Tigilanol tailgate (TT) triggers the action of enzymes called protein kinase C (PKC); when injected directly into the tumor, it causes a fast but highly localized immune response, disrupting the tumor’s blood supply and thereby inducing tumor cell death. This process leads to the destruction of the tumor mass followed by rapid healing of the resulting wound with minimal scarring.

In a randomized controlled clinical two-phased study involving 123 dogs with cytologically diagnosed MCT, researchers found that a single TT treatment resulted in complete response (tumor completely disappeared) in 75% of cases after 4 weeks (Phase 1). Those dogs who had failed to achieve tumor resolution after 4 weeks were treated with a second dose, and approximately half responded (Phase 2), increasing the overall complete response rate to 87%. Of the treated dogs with complete responses available for follow-up, 100% were still disease-free at the treated tumor site after 8 weeks, and 96% remained disease-free after 12 weeks.

STELFONTA has been approved to treat non-metastatic cutaneous mast cell tumors, and non-metastatic subcutaneous mast cell tumors located at or distal to the elbow or the hock in dogs, and tumor size cannot exceed 10cm. A regimen of corticosteroids and antihistamines/H2 blockers must be given to reduce the risks of severe systemic adverse reactions from mast cell degranulation. Administration of the treatment is by a veterinarian, with a single injection directly into the tumor; a second dose may be given if tumor tissue remains four weeks after the first treatment and the surface of the remaining mass is intact. The most common adverse reactions included wound formation (though this is expected due to the destruction of the tumor), injection site reactions such as mild to moderate pain at the time of injection, reddening/swelling/bruising/thickening of the skin, pain and/or lameness in the treated limb, vomiting, diarrhea, and low albumin levels in the blood. These adverse events were typically low grade, resolved quickly, and usually directly associated with TT’s mode of action. Overall, this innovative treatment has been shown to be well-tolerated, allowing dogs to regain quality of life quickly.

STELFONTA will be launched in the United States by global animal health company Virbac, with availability to veterinary oncologists in the next few months; availability to primary care veterinarians will follow. 

Are Seresto Flea and Tick Collars Harmful to Dogs?

40
using flea and tick prevention collars
Otto and Woody wearing their Seresto collars.

On March 2, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012. The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners have been flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.

Dog owners should be aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. But there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog:

  • Don’t use any flea- and/or tick-killing or –repelling pesticides unless your dog needs that protection. If you are lucky enough to have never observed fleas in your home or on your dog, you may have no need for flea-control products; don’t buy them unless you need them! In some parts of the country, fleas and/or ticks are a fairly constant threat to pets and pesticides are needed to control and manage infestations. (I put the collars on my dogs when I am planning to hike with them in areas where ticks are numerous, or when my dogs get exposed to a dog with fleas. The rest of the year, they go without!)
  • Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
  • If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
  • If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future. My granddog Cole had an adverse reaction to Frontline once, vomiting once or twice on the day after the spot-on was applied and exhibiting diarrhea for a day or two after that. About a year later, my son, misremembering which product had caused the adverse response, inadvertently used Frontline on Cole again (after getting fleas from a visit to a friend’s infested home), with the same response. Aghast, he called me to confirm that Frontline was the culprit. Now we both remember, and avoid that product for Cole.
  • It’s easy to respond if your dog, like Cole, has an acute adverse response to a particular pesticide. (In the case of an adverse response to a spot-on pesticide, you can give your dog a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. If your dog has an adverse response after you have put a Seresto collar on him, remove the collar and bathe him well.) But if your dog has chronic health problems, you may need to more deliberately consider whether any of the topical or oral pesticides you have administered to him may be connected to his health problems. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
  • If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
seresto flea and tick collar
The packaging for a Seresto flea and tick collar.

That last tip is why I’m not going to stop using Seresto and start using some new product. Neither of my dogs has had an adverse response of any kind to the collars. If either one had, I would avoid that product, but I’m not going to expose them to a new pesticide; I have evidence that Seresto is not causing them harm, but I’d be starting from scratch with a new pesticide.

It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.

Adventures in dog fostering, chapter #7642

23
Wow, is that door filthy! Anyway, this is a (not very dramatic) reconstruction of the scene greeting me when I went to see how the foster pup was faring by herself in my office.

I have a new little foster dog staying with me. The manager of my shelter called me last week and wanted to know if I would give her my opinion; she had been returned to the shelter twice and the manager was puzzled, because she seemed great!

Long story short, I think she is great. I think the two failed placements were not the right fit for her, that’s all. And I like her so much, I have a home in mind for her. But the family I’m thinking of will have to leave her home alone for chunks of time, and because I was working around the clock all last week, I haven’t yet had a chance to see how she does when left alone for more than 20 minutes at a time.

I shipped the April issue to the printer on Monday morning and decided that the little dog’s “home alone” tests would start that day. I left the dog in my detached little office building by herself, with a frozen Kong toy that was stuffed with canned food and her dry food scattered around on the floor of the office. I went into the house to eat breakfast, take a shower, and answer some emails. From the house, I would be able to hear if she started barking or causing a fuss.

What it looked like when the crate fell, PERFECTLY blocking the door from opening. (There are *very strong* rigid bars in there!) Note that the door is as open as it could be with the fallen crate in that position. I had to aim my “hook” for the strap that snaps the collapsed crate together for portability.

About an hour later, I came back out to the office. As I approached the door I could see her through the glass door, sitting calmly – good job, little dog! I went to open the door and – hey, why won’t the door open? It seemed to be jammed, somehow!

Folded-up soft-sided crate, leaning against file cabinet on right.

I cupped my hands to the glass and looked more closely through the window. Oh crap! When I left the office, there had been a folding, soft crate leaned up against a file cabinet, across from the door, and it had fallen toward the door – been pushed over, more likely, by a dog pushing a food-stuffed Kong around the office. Unfortunately, now it was lying flat on the ground between the door and the file cabinet, where it fit perfect to very effectively block the door from opening. Ay yi yi! What a fix we were in! There are three little windows in my office, and all of them are locked. Breaking a window  was the only alternative to solving this puzzle to open the door.

Red and green intact tomato “cages,” and pieces of a third cage that I cut up in order to McGyver a tool that would slip through the 1/4-inch slit that I could open the door, and fish for the strap on the side of the fallen crate.The first loop I cut off the cage was too short; I needed the biggest hoop.

Fortunately, the door could open about a quarter of an inch. It took me about a half-hour to find something on my property that I could use to slip through the tiny slit between the door and the frame, hook onto some part of the folding crate, and pull the crate up. It had to be very slender, at least a couple feet long, flexible enough to bend around the door, and strong enough to lift the large crate. A wire coat hanger was not strong enough, nothing plastic was skinny or flexible enough. I kept walking around the properly, looking for something.

Ultimately, I used bolt cutters to cut up a round wire tomato cage, the bottom loop of which met all the requirements: strong, slender, long, and flexible. Then I sat in front of the door, fishing with my wire, trying to catch a strap on the crate. The little dog sat on the flattened crate on the other side of the door, watching me and the movement of the wire intently.

Finally I hooked a strap! I had to bang on the door – “Back! Get back!” – to get the dog to get off the crate, so I could lift the end of the crate enough to push open the door and free the little dog. Hurray! I spent only an hour trying to free her from her hour-long isolation test.

I’ll try again tomorrow, but you can bet that I’ll dog-proof the office a little more thoroughly this time.

Can Dogs Eat Cinnamon?

6
Can Dogs Eat Cinnamon?
Here’s what pet parents should know before giving their dogs cinnamon. Photo: chendongshan/Getty Images

It’s fun to indulge in sugar and spice and everything nice, like cinnamon. Just a whiff of cinnamon can bring back memories of snow day baking sessions with mom. And now that you’re a pet parent, you may want to give your pup a sprinkle of it, whether it’s in a homemade dog biscuit or by itself. So, can dogs eat cinnamon? Here’s what pet parents should know.

Related: How to Make Your Own Top-Quality Dog Treats

 Is cinnamon good for dogs?

There aren’t any peer-reviewed studies on the benefits of giving your dog cinnamon, but some people swear by it. 

“Anecdotally, people will say it has anti-inflammatory properties and helps regulate blood sugar,” says Dr. Antje Joslin of Dogtopia, a brand of dog daycare centers that also offers boarding, spa, grooming and training services at more than 150 locations throughout the U.S.

If your dog has underlying gastrointestinal (GI) sensitivities, experimenting with her diet is probably not recommended. But most dogs have relatively iron stomachs. Start with a tiny amount, and see how she responds. Dr. Joslin says it’s OK to put some in a homemade dog treat or let your pup lick it off your finger while you’re baking. 

But when it comes to cinnamon and dogs, there’s such a thing as too much of a good thing.

“It should be in small quantities…anything more than a teaspoon can be an irritant to the stomach,” Dr. Joslin warns, adding that too much cinnamon can also raise blood sugar.

When to not let your dog eat cinnamon

Cinnamon can cause GI irritation. If your dog is prone to it, it may be best to find another way to treat them. Also, steer clear of cinnamon in oil form.

“It can irritate the skin,” Dr. Joslin says. 

And though the smell is comforting to us, try not to let your dog inhale it if, for example, it spilled on the floor.

“It can be an irritant to the nose,” Dr. Joslin says.

If your dog had cinnamon, look out for any signs of discomfort.

“Vomiting, soft stool or frequent stool [are red flags],” Dr. Joslin says. “If they inhale it after getting into the spice cabinet, look for coughing, sneezing or choking.”

Check in with your vet and consider treating your dog with something else if cinnamon isn’t sitting well with them. But if it is, a little sprinkle in moderation is perfectly fine.

Read Next: Can dogs eat avocado?

Stray Dogs Living On The Streets

20
© Ccat82 | Dreamstime.com Female "street dogs" and "reservation dogs" often live the hardest lives, as they end up becoming pregnant every time they come into season. Feeding a litter or two of puppies each year, when they are hungry themselves, takes a lot out of them.

I’ve had several opportunities to observe unowned “street dogs” in different habitats, from Indian reservations to beaches to foreign countries. Years ago I went on a school-organized trip with my son’s middle-school class to Italy; watching the famed stray dogs who live in the ruins of Pompeii was the highlight of my trip!

Almost everywhere there is a persistently high population of street dogs, “reservation dogs,” or “sato dogs,” there are organizations devoted to helping them, ranging from capture/vaccination/spay/neuter programs to adoption programs. And this is great, because the threats to the lives of stray dogs are many:

  • Parvovirus and distemper kills many unvaccinated street dogs.
  • Many suffer terribly from fleas and/or mange.
  • Long-term suffering from ticks and tick-borne disease, and from giardia and/or coccidia may also shorten the dogs’ lives.
  • If they haven’t been captured and spayed/neutered at some point, they will unavoidably add to the population of homeless dogs. Females may suffer during breeding season, unable to escape being bred by numerous males, and from birthing/feeding more puppies than her body can maintain. Males may suffer from fights brought on by the proximity of a female in season, and from wandering farther afield than they normally would, in search of the scent of a female in season.
  • Being hit by cars is far too common.
  • In rural areas, many stray dogs meet their ends as they hunt for food and end up getting shot by farmers or ranchers.

On the other hand, I sometimes consider that some of these free-roaming dogs may be happier than some owned dogs who have regular health care, food, and warmth. There are a great many owned dogs who suffer from the helplessness of being locked up in a tiny cage or crate, dependent on a human’s schedule to eliminate when they need to, or for meeting other basic needs. Many dogs are subjected to lives of relative emotional and mental poverty, spending huge chunks of each day in social isolation and deprivation.

Dogs are often dumped in or near the ruins of the city of Pompeii in Italy and reproduce there. Many of them figure out how to beg for food from the throngs of tourists that visit the site. They approach buses and cars and allow themselves to be petted, nudging purses and backpacks that contain anything edible.

“Street dogs” can satisfy their curiosity about anything that catches their eyes or ears, investigating at will. They can exercise when they want, as much as they want. They usually develop relationships with other dogs, staying in a loose “family” group with other dogs they trust.

But it’s undeniable that their lives tend to be short, much shorter than owned dogs. There are just so many hazards.

In recent years, a great many groups have begun to import street dogs from other countries into the U.S., in hopes of finding adopters here. While this undoubtedly saves lives, I can’t tell you how many reports I’ve heard from trainers who have been called upon to help the families who have adopted former street dogs from Puerto Rico or Russia, or brought home by soft-hearted soldiers in the Middle East. Sometimes these dogs have a really rough time adapting to the typical lifestyle of an owned dog in America: being walked on leash everywhere, having no freedom to roam, perhaps being an only dog, and spending a lot of time alone.

There is no way to know what’s best for any individual. But I must say, when a stray adolescent dog on an Indian reservation recently approached me, all of the above went through my mind. If I had been closer to home or had any room in my car, I would have been seriously tempted to “rescue” him – but what if he already had a loving family, and was merely given the freedom to wander?

Download The Full March 2021 Issue PDF

  • SMALL IRRITANTS CAN LEAD TO BIG DISTRESS
  • ON RESTRICTION
  • ROOM WITH A VIEW
  • DECOMPRESSION
  • TAKING CARE OF “TRIPAWDS”
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Letters and Corrections: March 2021

3

 Collar Safety

I read with interest your article about collars, tags, and the risks associated with both. (“Don’t Wait! Prevent Collar Accidents,” December 2020.)
I have three dogs, including a Border Collie who likes to lie over one of the floor vents, especially in the summer when cool air is being pumped out. Twice, he’s gotten his metal ID and rabies tags caught in the grate and ended up in somewhat of a panic dragging the grate around the kitchen. 

After reading your article, l decided on a fix. I took a couple 1/4-inch-wide strips of duct tape and taped the tags flush to the collar so they could no longer get snagged. If for some reason the tags have to be read, the tape can easily be removed. I think my solution will work just fine without removing potentially valuable information should he get in trouble one way or another regarding the dog’s identity or shot records. 

Chuck Meyer, longtime subscriber  – Beaver Dam, WI

 

Food Review Questions

I love WDJ but I have questions. In your dry food list (“Approved Dry Dog Foods 2021,” February 2021) only one is available in my area. I need help! I have three small dogs, two Miniature Pinschers and one Chihuahua. 

Edith Bunch – via email

We’re sorry, but we can’t make specific recommendations for diets for individual dogs. 

Some of the companies on our list sell directly to consumers. Alternately, if you have a good independent pet supply store in your area, we’d suggest asking the manager if they can order one of the products you are interested in; most stores are happy to do that. You may be bringing a product to their attention that they are not aware of. 

Also, most of the foods on our lists are available through online retailers. If a particular product appeals to you, go to the company’s website; they usually have a link showing where their products are sold. Or check the big online retailers: Chewy, Amazon, and Petco.

Again, we’re sorry, but we can’t possibly make recommendations for specific dogs. Nor would we be able to know what’s in your budget.

I noticed an incorrect statement on your 2021 approved dry foods list. Regarding Annamaet’s foods, you state “Annamaet’s formulas are made with low-ash chicken, salmon, or lamb and healthy whole grains (no legumes).” Their grain-free formulas most certainly do contain legumes. I know because I feed Annamaet’s food and have spoken at length with this wonderful company. They produce excellent, well-researched foods, but their grain-free formulas definitely do contain legumes.

Deborah Grodecka – via email

Argh! You’re right. None of Annamaet’s seven grain-containing foods contain legumes. But its grain-free foods do indeed contain legumes. We regret the error.

We just reviewed the ingredients of all of Annamaet’s dry dog foods, again! Here are the legumes used in its grain-free foods: Lean Formula (field peas, lentils); Aqualuk (field peas, chickpeas), Salcha (lentils, field peas, chickpeas); Manitok (lentils, field peas, chickpeas, pea protein); Sustain (lentils, green peas, pea protein isolate); Ohana (lentils); Re-Juvenate (green peas, lentils, pea protein isolate). 

If you remove a food from your approved list,. it would be helpful if you made a note as to why.

Dean Mair – via email

Thanks for the suggestion; we will absolutely add that to our coverage. We’ll explain the discrepancies between the 2020 list and the 2021 list here: 

We noted in the introduction to the 2021 dry dog foods list that, for the first time, we had stopped including companies that make and sell only one product or are sold in only one state or part of the country. We did not name the companies that were eliminated from our list by this change; they are Bench & Field, Pet Chef Express, and Petguard. The foods made by these companies meet our selection criteria , but we want to keep our focus on companies with the resources and full-time commitment to best serve consumers on a national scale.

Castor & Pollux has discontinued its Ultramix line of foods. 

Weruva is no longer making a dry dog food.

Dr. Tim’s Pet Food was previously on our lists, though we had warned in past articles that we are not fans of including animal blood as a protein source in dog foods, and that some of Dr. Tim’s foods include this ingredient. This year, we learned that all of Dr. Tim’s foods include dried porcine plasma, so we removed the company from the 2021 list.

 

Access to Past Articles

I read your comments about quick fixes versus longer term efforts.(“Sound Solutions,” WDJ February 2021) and was struck by a comment you made regarding calendula tincture for skin issues and needing to work on determining underlying causes. I was so excited, as I have a couple of rescue Pekes that have some significant skin issues, which have managed to defy all our efforts so far and mystify my vets.

I was disappointed to check through the entire magazine and not discover the article, so assume it was something printed at some time in the past.

I was hoping you could send me the article you referred to. If there’s a cost, please let me know. I’m hoping to use the information along with the advice about dog foods to try and improve life for Bonnie and Clyde.

Jackie Wagoner – Tennessee Pekingese Rescue

Hi Jackie, thanks for your note. The calendula reference was meant to be an example of the type of information we include in our articles. This is in contrast to articles frequently seen elsewhere that lack specifics on how to put the information in the articles to use! 

Here are two of the articles we have published about calendula and its many uses: “How to Use Calendula on Dogs,” April 2008, and “The Many Benefits of Calendula for Your Dog,” February 2007.

I also would like to make you aware that current subscribers are able to access all of our back issues and articles on the WDJ website, whole-dog-journal.com. Just go to our site and type the topic you want information about into the search box in the upper right corner. If we’ve covered that topic, a list of articles will appear. 

You do need to register for online access, if you haven’t already. At the very top center of the website, there is a box that says “Activate My Web Access.” Click on that, and fill in the boxes to help us find your subscription status. You will then be instructed to choose a user name and password. Once that’s done, as long as your subscription is current, you will have access to everything we’ve ever published.

Good luck with the Pekes! I hope that a calendula rinse proves to be helpful!

 

Thanks for the Information

My first issue of Whole Dog Journal was Volume 2, No. 2, February 1999. I have been an avid reader since then, reading every issue nearly cover to cover. It is with a good deal of sadness that I anticipate receiving January 2021 issue, my last. 

After 22 years, I didn’t want to leave without thanking you and telling you why I’m letting my subscription lapse. First, why: In November 2018 and July 2019, I said goodbye to my two beloved Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Tamu and Pendo. My heart is still broken. Because of recent changes in my life, I don’t anticipate ever having another dog. 

Tamu came to us as a puppy. We gave him that name – Swahili for “sweet” – in honor of Nunda, my first Rhodesian Ridgeback, who had died in March 2008, just three months before Tamu was whelped. Tamu was a show dog until he was about 7, when he and I decided it was time for us to retire from the ring. Pendo was about 4 years old when we rescued him. His name is Swahili for “love,” with which he was overflowing. He and Tamu were close in age, and they became best friends. I miss them both immensely.

Now for the “thank you.” Over the years, I have learned so much from WDJ, and that knowledge greatly enhanced my understanding of my dogs and my relationships with them. When we got Nunda as a puppy, I was a novice in the world of dogs, and I had no clue how to train him, care for him, or bond with him. It was 1996, and I had never heard of positive, force-free training, so I didn’t understand why I was having so much trouble mastering the punishment-based training techniques being taught in the obedience classes to which we went. I also had a gut feeling that I shouldn’t have to be so cruel to him to get him to do what I wanted him to do. It just felt so wrong.

Then I discovered WDJ. You and your wonderful contributors taught me why I felt so uneasy about the training methods I had been taught. It took some time to repair the damage I had done to my relationship with Nunda in those first couple of years without WDJ, but by the time Tau and then Pendo came to us, I had the knowledge and resources I needed to get off on the right foot from the beginning. Whether it was training, nutrition, products, health, or behavior, I always knew where to go to find answers and solutions.

Thanks you for all you’ve done for me and my dogs in the past 22 years. Keep up the good work. If I ever do welcome another dog into my life, you can be sure I’ll be back. 

With gratitude,

Deborah blankenberg – Lodi, California 

Deborah, I can’t tell you how much your letter means to us. I’ve shared it with our long-time WDJ contributors, and it’s made each of us cry! It has always been our goal to encourage dog owners and help them find effective, dog-friendly answers to the problems they may be having. We are proud to hear that we helped you and your dogs, immensely grateful to you for your long-time support, and sincerely hope that circumstances again find you with a dog to love and to love you. 

Nancy Kerns, Editor  

The Difficult Decision to Amputate Your Dog’s Leg

5

Early last year, one of my friends fostered a young dog through a long recovery from an extensive surgery. The dog had been hit by a car and surrendered to our local shelter; they were going to amputate her broken leg, but a rescue group raised funds for a surgical repair instead. They placed her with a foster care provider – where she broke the leg again. 

The rescue raised more money and paid for another, more extensive surgery. This time, they looked for someone with experience at caring for a convalescent dog. Having seen her own dog through two surgeries, my friend Leonora volunteered. For two months, she kept the dog on a leash. She used food puzzles, food-dispensing toys, “brain games,” and enrichment to ensure the active, playful dog remained calm.

The dog was finally placed in an adoptive home, still in need of one more surgery to remove some of the hardware that was holding her leg together. By the time her recovery from that surgery was complete, the dog had been in pain (or at least discomfort) and not allowed off leash for about 10 months. And she has a permanent limp!

My friend and I both thought that it would have been far kinder to the dog if her leg had been amputated after the initial injury. She was only about 5 months old when her leg was broken; she could have recovered from amputation surgery in a few weeks! Instead, she spent practically her whole adolescence on a leash or in a crate!

PUT TO THE TEST

Just weeks later, a different rescue group was looking for a foster provider with a puppy who had been found in a ditch with a crippled leg. I volunteered to take him in, and not just because he was crazy adorable – a little brown muppet with a fuzzy face; I hoped to advocate for the puppy to receive more responsible treatment choices than those that had been made on behalf of my friend’s foster dog. I made a veterinary appointment and arranged to meet the rescue group leader (and the puppy) there. I’d take the pup home with me after the appointment.

The vet was grim-faced when she came out of the clinic to show the pup’s x-rays to the rescue group leader and me. The x-ray of the puppy’s hock joint looked like a cigarette that had been extinguished under someone’s shoe – shattered, crushed, and twisted. Worse, the vet thought it had happened weeks prior; in her opinion, the injury was too old to repair. She recommended amputation.

“What if we brought him to Davis?” the rescue group leader asked, referencing a veterinary college not far away. “Could we consult an orthopedic specialist? He’s such a handsome puppy! I hate to cut off his leg if there’s hope!” The veterinarian shook her head. “I mean, you could,” she said reluctantly. “But it would take multiple surgeries to sort all that out – and he’d have to be kept quiet for months. And even then, it could all fail, and he’d have to lose the leg anyway…” 

The rescue group leader had also met that dog my friend Leonora had fostered. I said, “Remember everything that dog went through? Months and months of living in a crate – and three expensive surgeries? If we amputate, he’ll be ready to go to a new home in a month!” I felt like I needed to be the strong voice, advocating for getting the puppy some relief and into a home as soon as possible.

Tearfully, the rescue group leader agreed, but the soonest available surgery date was 10 days away; this happened in the early days of the pandemic and the vet’s office had just started seeing a full schedule of patients again. I used a confident tone, trying to reassure her that this was the right thing to do. “Don’t worry!” I told her. “I’ll keep him quiet, bring him back for surgery, get him through recovery, and by the end of the month, he’ll be ready to go to his new home!” 

Once I got the little guy home, I introduced him to my dogs. Like all my foster puppies, he was magnetized by “fun uncle” Woody, my 5-year-old Pit/Lab-mix. He attached himself to the big, amiable dog, and they played, ate, and slept together. I controlled the puppy’s activity by keeping Woody under control. 

Here’s the thing: The more time I spent with the pup, the worse I felt about amputating his leg. He did use it a little, mostly for balance on turns. He didn’t put much weight on it, and when he did, it tended to bend in sickening, wrong ways that had to hurt, even with the pain medication the vet had given us. But he did use it – and I found myself wavering. Could the crushed joint be fused, since repairing it seemed impossible? 

Another talk with the veterinarian firmed up my wobbly resolve. “You’re talking about thousands of dollars and months of time – and even if it works, that joint will be arthritic. Or the whole thing might fail and he will still need amputation,” she told me. 

Diesel uses his long tail for balance. His family assures me that neither he nor the squirrels he keeps out of the backyard know that he is disabled.

Long story short: A family fell for his adorable face on the rescue group’s Facebook page, and they came to meet him while we waited for his vet appointment. They named him Diesel and agreed to adopt him as soon as he recovered. On surgery day, I cried when I dropped him off at the vet’s office (masks and sunglasses are really helpful in this situation) – but he looked as cheerful as ever when I picked him up that evening. While it is always upsetting to see a large surgical incision on a dog, he didn’t pay any attention to it. Perhaps because he hadn’t been able to put much weight on that leg for quite some time, he didn’t seem to miss it at all. Diesel’s new family took possession of him a week after surgery. He’s a normal, mischievous pup who gets into all the regular puppy trouble, and they love him.

I can say from experience: Making the amputation decision for your dog’s health is the hardest part. While you may grieve for the loss of your dog’s normal appearance, I can assure you that your dog will not. The pain-free time you spend together after recovery will more than make up for the angst you felt beforehand. 

Three Legged Dog Care

3
A three legged dog may be happier after surgery as the condition that necessitated amputation and the resulting pain is gone.
Two "tripawd" dogs (as they are affectionately referred to by their owners) meet and play at a dog park. Amputation of a canines limb is not uncommon today, especially as more seriously injured dogs are rescued and treated for these injuries, rather than euthanized in shelters. That's a good thing, because these dogs have as much joy to experience and much to offer us as any dog.

I’m not sure which is more difficult: making the decision whether or not to have your dog’s diseased or broken limb amputated, or picking up a three legged dog from the veterinarian after amputation surgery. The responsibility of making such a weighty decision for your uncomprehending dog feels terrible. So does seeing him immediately after surgery – a huge swath of him shaved to the skin, stumbling as he figures out how to ambulate in a new way – the whole thing can be shocking. 

But this is the important thing to know: It gets better. The incision heals, his hair grows back, and your dog gets around just fine. The pain of whatever had to be amputated – a terribly broken bone, severed nerves, or cancer – is now gone. Typically, after surgery, three legged dogs perk up more by the day, making their owners realize that the dogs’ grouchiness or lack of enthusiasm was likely caused by tremendous pain prior to surgery. With the problematic limb gone, they feel better!

PRESERVE, DON’T OVERPROTECT

That doesn’t mean all of your troubles are over, however. The fact that amputees feel so much better can actually cause them to hurt themselves as they try to run, jump, and play with the energy and enthusiasm they had before the event that precipitated surgery – only now, they have one fewer limb to help them carry their weight and maintain their balance. 

Those three remaining limbs require a bit more consideration and care, because a dog can’t really spare any more! (While there are dogs who cope with the loss of two limbs, and everything in this article is applicable to them, fortunately the need for this is rare.) 

Don’t get me wrong: Three-legged dogs can still run, jump, and play; you just need to provide a little supervision and judgment, to ensure they don’t overdo it. Dogs are just not that good at anticipating potential consequences of their enthusiastic physical antics! 

It’s up to you to determine whether it’s too icy or if that muddy field is too slippery for them to be playing chase games with another dog. Jumping should be kept to safe, modest heights and limited in number. If they were super-fit athletes before surgery, accustomed to accompanying their owners on long jogs or off-leash hikes, their mileage should be reduced a bit.

Thin Is In and Fat Is Bad

The single most important thing you can do to preserve your tripod dog is to keep him thin. I know, we  say that about all dogs! But it’s especially true for these dogs. 

There is a very human tendency to feel a bit sorry for handicapped dogs, and, perhaps subconsciously, try to “make it up to them” with a bit more food, a few more treats. Don’t!  The best way to care for these dogs is to ensure that they stay skinny throughout their lifetime. This will help prevent injuries in the amputee’s remaining limbs and preserve his flexibility and mobility.

The battle against excess weight is one you can’t afford to lose, so enlist all the help you can get. If you keep reducing your dog’s food portions and he doesn’t seem to lose any weight, talk to your veterinarian. She may be able to recommend diets that are more appropriate for weight loss and lean-body maintenance than the products you are feeding. 

A THREE LEGGED DOG MEANS THAT EACH LEG CARRIES MORE

When a dog loses a limb, each of his other limbs has to carry more of his weight. The burden increases the most for the remaining leg on the same end of the dog as the amputated limb. 

Dogs carry about 60% of their weight on their front end. If you could compel a dog to stand with each foot on a separate scale, you’d find each front limb holding up about 30% of their body weight apiece, and each hind leg holding up about 20% of their body weight. So, do the math: If one front limb is removed, the remaining front leg has to hold up a whopping 60% of the dog’s body weight by itself! If a hind leg is removed, the remaining hind limb will need to carry about 40% of the dog’s weight. 

This underscores the need to keep the dog’s weight under strict control; you don’t want any of the limbs to carry any more weight than they must. These dogs should always be kept thin.

Carrying an increased percentage of the dog’s weight as he ambulates is not the only increased burden for his remaining limbs. A single front leg has to catch all his weight for a moment every time he jumps down from a car or a couch. A single hind limb has to propel the dog forward with every stride. No matter which end of the dog is missing a limb, swimming will make the remaining leg on that end have to work much harder, too. 

When, due to amputation, a three legged dog results, his stance will naturally change in order to maintain balance and stability. Instead of standing with his feet arranged in a rectangle, with a foot in each corner, the limb that’s lacking a partner will start to shift toward the center of his body, so that his footprints form a triangle. This change in his stance can tweak the rest of his body – spine, neck, shoulders, and hips. For these reasons – an increased workload and a shifting stance – tripods will benefit from some specific accommodations and health interventions: 

* Provide nonslip surfaces in the house. Slick floors, whether they are tile, hardwood, or laminate, are the bane of tripod dogs. Dogs who slip tend to flail and/or make quick movements to try to catch themselves – and it’s these frantic motions that are often responsible for torn muscles or ligaments. Wherever possible, provide a route with improved traction (with nonslip carpet runners or yoga mat material) for your dog through the most slippery rooms; you’ll find these will become his favorite paths. Don’t forget the stairs!

Traction socks or non-slip booties are an option for some dogs.

* Prevent your three legged dog from jumping down. If your dog is in the habit of leaping off your bed or couch, or routinely launching himself out of the car after a drive, you may be a bit skeptical about your ability to control this. But any veterinarian will tell you that the hard landing experienced in this sort of jump is one of the most destructive forces on your tripod’s body that there is. Working on a solution will be worth the effort!

When getting out of the car, block his exit and get hold of his leash. Guide him to the floor of the car, so he doesn’t jump off the much higher seat. If even the floor of your car is high, see if you can use a ramp, or lift him out of the car. In the house, provide him with “puppy stairs” (these are readily found in pet supply stores and online) or ramps, and teach him to use them with high-value reinforcements. He may still jump off the couch or bed when you’re not present to encourage the safer way, but you will have at least reduced the total number of hard landings he subjects his body to.

* Train him to walk on a loose leash. In our opinion, good leash skills are important for every dog, but they are critical for tripods. He already has to work harder to ambulate than a four-legged dog; if he is pulling against you the entire time, he’s working far too hard and in all the wrong ways. Consider a private lesson with a qualified, force-free training professional and practice! (For more information about training a dog to walk on a loose leash, see “Loose Leash Walking,” WDJ April 2017 and “Frustrated on Leash?” WDJ October 2019.) 

* Bring a stroller on walks. If your dog becomes fatigued on walks, consider purchasing a dog stroller. After she rests for a bit, your dog may express an interest in getting out and walking again. This will help maintain the length of your exercise time, so your dog (and you!) don’t lose fitness by taking progressively shorter walks.

* Use joint-support supplements – right away. Again, because he has fewer legs over which to distribute his weight, the impact on his remaining joints will be greater than for a four-legged dog. This means he will be at higher risk of developing osteoarthritis. 

Don’t wait for your three legged dog to develop arthritis; at that point, providing pain relief is about all you can do. Joint supplements will help prevent, slow, or delay the development of arthritis, which is far better than waiting until the disease is established. 

Adequan is the only FDA-approved disease-modifying osteoarthritis drug that has been proven to inhibit cartilage loss in a dog’s joints, thus helping prevent or stave off the development of osteoarthritis. It’s available only with a veterinarian’s prescription and administered as a series of intramuscular injections, twice weekly for up to four weeks. Usually, your vet will administer the first dose; if you think you’re able to inject the next doses, your vet will show you how. If not, most clinics will have a technician deliver the rest of your dog’s doses.

The array of oral over-the-counter dietary joint-health supplements on the market is overwhelming. These may contain glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as glucosamine and chondroitin. Herbal supplements containing turmeric, boswellia, and/or devil’s claw have been shown to reduce joint pain caused by osteoarthritis. Fish oil, which contains the omega-3 fatty acids docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), has been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects, as have green-lipped mussels. Ask your vet for product recommendations and therapeutic dosages for your dog. 

* Provide physical therapy. The value of physical therapy for three legged dogs cannot be overstated. The goal is multi-pronged: 

• To relieve pain from over-tight muscles

• To support and maintain joint range-of-motion

• To stimulate and improve circulation, which promotes healing and health

• To gently warm up and stretch muscles, ligaments, and tendons before and after exercise

• To detect soreness that might escalate into an injury if the dog’s exercise is not modified

• To improve the dog’s balance and muscle control

Even a single consultation with a veterinary physical therapist is valuable. These specialists can detect subtle gait or posture problems or adaptations that your three legged dog has made following his amputation. They will then prescribe specific stretching and strengthening exercises and teach you how to do them with your dog. Some therapists also use massage, laser therapy, and exercises in therapy pools and underwater treadmills. Ask your veterinarian for a referral.

* Consider complementary therapies such as chiropractic and acupuncture. Both of these modalities can help relieve pain and keep the joints free and the muscles loose.

* Provide pain relief as needed. Your veterinarian is a critical partner in this essential task.

* Last but not least: You must check out tripawds.com. This exhaustive website is a clearinghouse for information about amputation (as well as the many health conditions that necessitate this surgery) and caring for three legged dogs (and cats). The site also hosts blogs and supportive discussion forums for owners. Perhaps the most valuable resource are the books and ebooks published by Tripawds, containing countless links and references for further information. 

Related Articles

The Difficult Decision to Amputate Your Dog’s Leg

A Three-Legged Wonder Dog

Carolyn and Ari

We asked followers of the WDJ Facebook page if they had a tripod dog and if so, what supportive care they use to preserve their dog’s soundness and mobility. We received a number of informative responses, but person who shared her dog’s journey just flattened us. Trainer Carolyn Baynes of Ellendale, Delaware, wrote:

“I rescued a 6-week-old pup with a twisted leg. I thought the leg was broken, but vets confirmed severe nerve damage in the pup’s shoulder. At 10 weeks, her right leg and scapula were amputated. Ari handled recovery with courage and strength that I never could have imagined. She told me, ‘I’m OK Mom, let’s get going!’ 

“Within 18 months, Ari has earned AKC Star Puppy, AKC Canine Good Citizen (CGC), and AKC Novice and Intermediate Trick Dog Titles. She is a Registered National Capital Therapy Dog and is the ‘spokescanine’ behind AKC’s decision to allow three-legged dogs to compete in Virtual Obedience effective March 1, 2021! 

“To keep Ari healthy, I keep her weight down, work with core-strengthening exercises several times a week using a wobble board, travel board, exercise ball, etc. Ari swims beautifully and climbs the hay bales in the barn without effort, which also helps to keep her strong. I feed her human-grade food with a fish-oil supplement and a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement.”

Ari is accomplished at rally obedience and recently started learning barn hunt skills and scent work. Don’t miss the photo of Ari and Carolyn’s chocolate Labrador Chayce, who are featured on the cover of this issue, as they participated in a presentation of National Capital Therapy Dogs.

Recognizing Dog Stress While Adjusting to a New Home

2
It's common for dogs to behave in a way that seems standoffish with their new families. They may even display signs of tree when approached (or even if someone just looks at or talks to them), such as yawning, averting their gaze, getting up and moving further away, beginning to pant, and so on. If given time and space to feel safe and decompress, they should grow increasingly comfortable with their family's attention and affection.

The term “decompression” has become popular in dog training and behavior circles. A strict definition of the word references the process of releasing or reducing pressure. In the dog world, we use the term in a behavioral context to describe the process of reducing a dog’s stress – mental pressure – which often gets inflated by being put through a number of environmental changes.  Sometimes, the changes that dogs experience as they make their way from their birthplace to their would-be “forever home” are tremendous. I’m thinking of dogs who were born on the street in countries that are very different from ours and then captured, transported on airplanes, quarantined for a period, and housed in foster situations before being made available for adoption. But even dogs who lived in just one home before finding themselves in a shelter or being given to someone else often are often overwhelmed with the changes in their lives.  Often, the dog’s circumstances are changed for the better when she’s rehomed. But it’s undeniable that the stress of these moves can hinder and delay the dog’s adjustment to her new life. I hope that understanding how this stress affects your new dog can help you dedicate yourself to the process of helping her settle smoothly into your home and bond with your family.

A Word About Cortisol
Known as the stress hormone, cortisol is produced by the adrenal glands (along with adrenaline) when an organism (such as your dog) is under stress. The short-term effect is to help the organism cope with the stress. Long-term effects are more insidious. Any stressful event can cause an increase in cortisol in your dog, which weakens the immune system and can cause or contribute to significant health issues, both short-term and long-term.  A short-term stress event can produce cortisol that stays in your dog’s system for two to three days. Ongoing long-term stress keeps cortisol in the system constantly and does a lot more damage. The longer a dog is under constant stress, the greater the impact on the immune system. This is one of the reasons dogs in shelters are so susceptible to getting upper respiratory infections. In addition to its impact on the immune system, excess cortisol can trigger anxiety, cause digestive problems, slow wound healing, and interfere with learning.  It can take weeks or even months for the cortisol levels of a dog who has been living with chronic stress to reduce to normal levels for that dog. Until that happens, try to keep the dog’s environment as calm as possible.

WHAT STRESS LOOKS LIKE

Stress-related behaviors can range from “shutting down” to being fearful, vocal, destructive, ill-mannered, or aggressive. The expression “shut down” is often used to describe a dog who is behaving in an abnormally inactive or unresponsive way. Many dogs are shut down to at least some degree when they first arrive in their new homes, especially if they are shell-shocked from the stress of being in a shelter or crowded rescue facility long-term.  The most severely shut-down dogs may appear near-catatonic – unwilling at first to even move, eat, drink, urinate, or defecate. Less severe cases may appear deceptively well-behaved, showing their real personalities and behaviors only after being in their new world long enough to let down their guard.  So how do you tell the difference between a stressed, shut-down dog and a naturally calm, well-behaved dog? The truly calm dog will have soft, relaxed body language and clearly enjoy her interactions with you. The “well-behaved” stressed (shut-down) dog will be stiffer in her movements, is likely to have a look of caution in her eyes, and will perhaps tolerate your interactions but not truly enjoy them. She may not pay much attention to you or your family members at first, avoiding eye contact, declining your invitations to interact, and seeming to not particularly enjoy being petted.  Again, though your new dog may seem “well behaved,” you should be aware that this is not necessarily an indication that she knows not to get into the kitchen garbage, chew up sofas, chase the cat, etc. She may be too intimidated or anxious about offering any behaviors that might have resulted in punishment in her past. Or, she might simply be observing the household and deciding whether it’s safe to move around freely.

How Not to Decompress
How quickly a dog will “come out of her shell” after rehoming is variable and depends on many factors. Just be patient.

One of the first versions I saw of a decompression protocol presented the “3-3-3 Rule,” which basically says the dog is likely to be pretty much shut down for the first three days, require another three weeks to settle in and develop a routine, and a total of three months to become completely comfortable in a new home.  Though I appreciate that the intention of this formula was to encourage owners to give their new dogs time before they imposed behavioral expectations on the dogs, I took an immediate dislike to this 3-3-3 decompression “formula.” Dogs are not machines, and they do not follow a set formula. I have known dogs who seemed at home as soon as they set foot in the door, dogs who have settled in well before three weeks, and dogs who were completely comfortable long before three months are up. At the other end of the scale, I’ve known dogs who were shut down for weeks, even months, and who were not “completely comfortable” in their own homes even after a year.  That doesn’t mean I don’t like the idea of decompression for your new dog. I like it very much. I just strongly dislike any behavior protocol that offers fixed guidelines and timelines.  Again, it’s great that people are even discussing decompression for adopted dogs – but, my oh my, some of the advice being given to supposedly help a dog decompress is awful! An internet search on “dog decompression” offers a wide range of suggestions, including one site that advocates two weeks of “crate and rotate” where any other household dogs are kept crated any time the new dog is out of her crate. This site suggests that dogs can go on walks together (but kept a distance apart) after the first week but should not even be allowed to interact with each other for at least the first two weeks. Really? I have added more than 20 new dogs to my family during my adult years (and fostered quite a few more). All of them have fully integrated into my canine household well before two weeks were up, and many of them were interacting easily with each other on Day One. Another piece of bad advice I see frequently is to crate your new dog –  a lot – starting on Day One. The problem here is that many dogs come to their new homes without prior crate training, and while some dogs will adapt rapidly and readily to the idea of crating, many will not. You will only add stress to your new dog’s life – possibly considerable stress –and potentially create a significant behavior problem, if you just shove her into a crate on Day One and expect her to stay there for hours at a time.  If I have a set formula for helping a dog decompress, it’s to be patient and treat her as the individual she is, giving her time to get to know and trust you, without the expectation of a specific deadline for various behavioral milestones.

WHAT DECOMPRESSION MAY LOOK LIKE

As a shut-down dog grows more comfortable in her new home, and her stress-increased high cortisol levels begin to decrease, she may start to display more behavior. She may sleep or rest less and explore and interact more with the other members of her household. This may be a great thing – she’s happy! She feels confident about coming to you and asking for affection and attention. That’s good.  However, the increase in her activity may look like a bad thing! No longer inhibited by fear or feeling paralyzed by chronic stress, your new dog may spontaneously chase the cat or jump up on the counter to see what’s up there. She might start barking at every sound coming from the other side of your backyard fences.  This doesn’t mean she’s bad, spiteful, acting out, or any of the other pejoratives I’ve heard overwhelmed owners assigning to their new dogs. These behaviors are actually a sign that the dog is finally feeling less inhibited and showing you the true extent of her understanding of how to live with humans! It also means you have some work to do, including managing her environment so that she doesn’t get reinforced for those behaviors. 

Introducing The New Dog to Your Other Dogs
When it seems to you that your new dog has become comfortable enough to relax and take in her surroundings with calm interest and confidence, it will be time to introduce her to the rest of the canine family. This, again, is a very individualized process and will depend on your own dog(s)’ past history with other dogs as well as your new dog’s behavior.  If all parties are happily dog friendly, it should go reasonably well. It’s a good idea to do introductions in a large open area (fenced, of course) if possible and in a neutral space (such as a friend’s or neighbor’s yard). Be sure any valuable items (toys, chews, food bowls, etc.) are removed from the area before the introductions happen.  I like to start introductions with dogs on leashes on opposite sides of the safely enclosed space. Keep the leashes loose, if possible. Watch the dogs’ behavior. They should seem interested in each other, alert without excessive arousal. Ideally, you’ll see tails wagging at half-mast, soft, wriggling body postures, play bows, ears back, squinty eyes, and no direct, hard eye contact. These are clear expressions of non-aggressive social invitation. Warning signs include stiffness in the body, standing tall, ears pricked hard forward, growling, hard direct eye contact, stiffly-raised fast-wagging tails, perhaps even lunging on the leash, and aggressive barking. If you see appropriate social behavior, proceed with the approach until the dogs are about 10 feet apart. If they continue to show unambiguous signs of friendliness, drop the leashes and let them meet. As soon as you can tell that they’re getting along, remove their leashes and let them play unencumbered. If you are not confident about introducing your dogs, have a very dog-knowledgeable (force-free) friend help you, or seek out the services of a qualified dog training professional. 

HOW TO DECOMPRESS

Remember, every dog is an individual. Planning a decompression protocol for a new dog completely depends on the dog and her response to her introduction to her new world. Here are the general decompression guidelines that I suggest:

Keeping potential stressors and excitement to a minimum for the first few weeks will help your new dog shed the physiological, emotional, and mental stress of the changes she endured before she joined your family.

1. Don’t rush your dog’s initial arrival. When you first arrive home with your new dog, start by taking her for a walk – on leash – around your yard before even bringing her into your house. If you don’t have a yard, walk her in the quietest area of your neighborhood that you can find. This is to give her a chance to settle and relax from the tension of the ride home, as well as the stress of the environment she was in before the car ride (especially if she was in a shelter or crowded rescue facility).  During this first walk, encourage her to eliminate. If you want her to use a designated bathroom spot in your yard, take her there and hang out for a while. If you have other dogs who use this area as their bathroom, the scent will help prompt her to eliminate there.  Spend a good bit of time in this bathroom area, just relaxing, not hurrying anything. This will allow your new dog to really take in the sights and smells of this spot, and hopefully relax enough to eliminate there. Take as much time as she needs so you can reinforce that behavior and so when you take her into the house, she doesn’t have a full bladder or bowel, which would likely be an additional stressor for her.  If you have other dogs, close them in a back room or put them out in the yard before you bring your new dog into your house. Still on leash, give her a tour of her new home, allowing her as much time as she wants to sniff and explore. Keep your other dogs separated until you see signs that she’s relaxed and actively interested in finding and meeting her new canine family members; this may take minutes, hours, or days, depending on her level of fear and past experiences! During this time, do not allow her to be overwhelmed by family members (especially children). To avoid additional stressors, it’s also best not to have visitors at this time.  2. Watch her for signs of stress. These may include panting, salivating, a lowered body posture, tucked tail, flattened ears, trembling, yawning, trying to escape, and more. Is she reluctant to move? Does she startle when a car passes or when she hears a dog bark? Does she freeze when a human approaches?  If so, restrict your activities to low-stimulus ones. Keep visitors to your house at a minimum. On walks, spend time just standing still until she is willing to move, and wrap her in virtual bubble-wrap: assertively preventing anyone from approaching, and walking away from anything that might worry her.  Make note of your dog’s stress behaviors, ideally in a journal that you maintain for at least her first few weeks with you. Watch for these behaviors to decrease over time – this will tell you that decompression is working. If they stay at the same level, or worse, increase, seek professional assistance to help her adjust to her life with you. 3. For at least the first day or two, try to arrange to have someone with her at all times until you can gradually help her adjust to being alone. It’s not uncommon for dogs to experience distress when they are first left alone in their new home. If you can avoid leaving her home alone until she is comfortable and familiar with her new surroundings, it may forestall triggering your still-stressed dog into an isolation-induced panic.  If your dog was previously an “outdoor dog,” and she seems less stressed in your yard than in your house, leaving her in the safely fenced yard for periods of time can also help reduce her stress. Watch her closely the first several times you do this to be sure she isn’t a climber, jumper, or digger – you don’t want her to Houdini out of the yard and vanish into the sunset; that could be why she ended up in a shelter in the first place! If your dog is significantly stressed about being left alone in the yard or in the house (crying, howling, trying to dig or chew her way out), crated or not, she may have some degree of isolation or separation distress, and you will have some work to do.  Depending on the severity of her distress, you may not be able to leave her alone at all until her behavior is modified, and you may need to consult a qualified behavior professional or veterinary behaviorist. (Here are two great sources for help:  malenademartini.com/about/meet-your-team/ and subthresholdtraining.com/find-a-trainer.) For more information, see “Separation Anxiety in Dogs,” WDJ October 2016. 4. Establish a routine early, during the first few days of her new life with you. Knowing what to expect will help her relax and settle in. Have treats in your pockets at all times, and be prepared to create positive associations by feeding her treats anytime you notice her concerned by household sounds, activities, etc.  If she’s allowed on the furniture, fine; you can invite her up from the get-go. If she’s not going to be allowed on the furniture, don’t feel sorry for her and let her jump up the first few days only to forbid her from getting on the sofa later.  Be sure to use management (such as baby gates, tethers, and closed doors) and positive reinforcement to implement house rules rather than verbal or physical punishment. If she jumps onto a forbidden sofa, toss a treat away from the sofa and encourage her to “Find it!” Then, redirect her to her own soft bed, or gate her out of the living room, so she can’t keep trying to get on the sofa.  Note that everyone in the family needs to be on board with the agreed-upon rules. A lack of consistency will keep your dog unsettled and lacking in confidence about what is okay to do and what is not allowed. 5. You can begin training at home (force-free, of course) as soon as your new dog seems receptive to your invitations to perform easy behaviors. For calm, easygoing dogs this might even be on Day One. Others will need a few days or more to be able to focus enough to do any training. Some dogs will be ready to join a training class within a week or two of joining your family, while others may need to wait weeks – or months – before they are ready to join the group class training community.  If you want to start training but you know your dog isn’t ready to handle a group training class, consider hiring a professional to do in-home training with you. Read your dog’s behavior signals and develop your training plan accordingly. Your new dog may fit right into your family as if she’s lived there all her life, or you may be challenged by the decompression process. Remember, she may have been through some very tough times before she came to you, and she needs your sympathy and understanding.