Supplements for pets that contain cannabidiol (CBD) – a derivative of the Cannabis plant that contains no psychoactive compounds – have exploded in popularity. 

According to the Packaged Facts survey “Pet Supplements in the U.S.,” 21 percent of dog owners purchased CBD supplements in 2020. Packaged Facts estimated the sales of CBD pet products in 2020 at $95 million, a 217% increase from the year prior. And Pet Product News recently reported that the nation’s largest pet supply store chains have all formed retail relationships with CBD supplement manufacturers. Petco sells CBD products from Pet Releaf, PetSmart stores (in some areas only) sell CBD products from Mary’s Tails, and Pet Supplies Plus carry Medterra and Kradle. Even Martha Stewart is hawking a line of CBD products for pets (made by Canopy Animal Health, a subsidiary of Canopy Growth).

So, clearly, you have a lot of CBD pet product to pick from. How do you choose?

• First, read the label or product description carefully to make sure the product contains CBD. There are hundreds of products on the market (many of which you can find with an online search for “CBD pet supplements) that do not contain CBD. Sure, the label may hype the “hemp” in the product, but unless it specifically says it contains CBD, it doesn’t. Hint: Neither Chewy.com nor Amazon.com sell pet supplements that contain CBD – lots of hemp-containing products, but no CBD.

There may be health benefits from hemp-sourced products that do not contain CBD, but if you’re looking for the specific benefits of CBD for your dog, you need to buy a CBD-containing product! 

• Now look for a report from an independent laboratory that tested the product. Don’t buy products if they have not been tested by a third-party lab, or if the results are not dated and code-matched to the batch of product you are considering. 

Reputable manufacturers post their products’ lab reports on their websites or have QR codes that take you to online reports – but check the dates! The report should include the date, clearly identify the product that was tested, and  state the name, address, and phone number of the test provider.

• Check the lab reports for microbial contaminants, heavy metals, pesticides, and potency. Hemp plants are susceptible to fungal growth, which can lead to the presence of carcinogenic mycotoxins, and readily absorb heavy metals from their environment. Inadvertent adulteration with heavy metals is also possible during manufacturing. And pesticide use is common in the farming of hemp. So the third-party lab reports should indicate that the products contain no microbial contaminants, heavy metals, or pesticides.
• Check the independent lab results to confirm the type and amount of CBD in the product. There are an estimated 80 to 100 cannabinoid substances (chemicals that are capable of binding with the cannabinoid receptors in our bodies and our dogs’ bodies) in hemp plants; the presence and amount of these substances vary according with the variety of the hemp plant. CBD product makers strive to use plant strains that produce none of the psychoactive tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) cannabinoids; supplements that contain more than 0.3% THC cannot be legally sold. 

The lab report should specify which cannabinoids are present in the product and in what amount, so you can administer consistent dosages for a predictable effect.

• Don’t buy products that make claims to prevent, cure, or manage disease. Any substance that makes therapeutic claims must be approved by the FDA. This process does not apply to products that are considered to be supplements, which is how CBD products are currently treated. By virtue of the Dietary Supplement Health and Education Act of 1994 (DSHEA), supplements may not be labeled or marketed for the prevention, diagnosis, treatment, mitigation, or cure of disease.

If a product label or company literature makes the product sound like a cure for anything that ails your dog, avoid that company’s products. Similarly, avoid products labeled as “treats,” which are regulated as food and cannot legally contain CBD. An example would be “CBD dog treats for anxiety.” Violations of labeling laws indicate either an inexperienced or unscrupulous product manufacturer. Either way, avoid that company.

• Look for clear indications for use, dosage information, and instructions. 
• If you can, ask a company representative what makes their products better than their competitors’. Listen for exaggerated claims – and ask for substantiation! The best companies should be at least participating in research studies of their products, if they don’t already have study results to tell you about. 
• Look for products from companies who have been at this for more than a few years. Many CBD-product manufacturers are here today and gone tomorrow. Longevity alone doesn’t prove the efficacy of a product; some companies were launched with massive investments from venture capital companies, helping some start-ups survive even with ineffective products. But time in the industry lends experience and credence to a company’s mission.
• Look for a seal of approval from the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC), which identifies products from companies that are committed to quality and continuous improvement. To earn an NASC Quality Seal, the supplement maker must, among other things, have a quality control manual in place, which helps ensure the company is providing a consistent and quality product; have an adverse event reporting/complaint system in place to monitor and evaluate products in real time; and pass an independent third-party audit every two years. 

In 2021, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) published the results of a study that analyzed products that contained hemp or cannabidiol substances. Almost 150 products were subjected to tests to determine which cannabinoids were present in the products. Fewer than half of products surveyed contained cannabidiol concentrations within 20% of their label declarations. 

Third-party lab testing and certification from the NASC are meant to prevent such results.

• We recommend buying CBD pet supplements from independent pet supply stores with have staff members who are familiar with the products – who have used them on their own pets. If this is not possible for you (if you live in an area where no such store exists), contact the makers of the products you are considering for support. 

First-time users will benefit from guidance regarding dosage and what type of product will work best for their dogs – and since veterinarians are prohibited in most states from even discussing CBD with their clients, much less recommending a particular product, the next-best guide is an experienced user of the products with a close, long-term retail relationship with conscientious product suppliers. 

Thanks to Annabell Bivens of The Dog Store in Alexandria, Virginia, for her help with this article. Nancy Kerns is the editor of WDJ.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

There is a great 2015 TED talk by Susan Little, DVM, PhD, DACVM, in which she posits that modern parasite preventatives are largely responsible for bringing dogs (and cats) into our homes over the past few decades. 

“The advances that the veterinary profession has made in achieving parasite control for pets has done more to support the human/animal bond – to really change at a fundamental level the way we interact with our pets – than anything since the rabies vaccine,” she says. Quick and easy prevention of fleas and ticks (which prevents zoonotic transmission of flea-borne and tick-borne diseases, as well as internal parasites such as the tapeworm) has enabled us to bring our pets not just into our homes but also onto our sofas and beds. 

“It’s because we’ve taken parasites out of the equation that we’re able to have that close relationship with them,” says Dr. Little, a veterinary parasitology professor at Oklahoma State University. 

Perhaps you have to be a certain age to appreciate this point. My own son, who recently turned 30, grew up with a dog on his bed; he’s never known a time when almost every dog had fleas. But I grew up with dogs who all had teeth that were worn flat from chewing their itchy flea bites by the time they were middle-aged. And those dogs all lived outside; the thought of inviting them into the house (much less our beds) makes me itch just to think about it. Fleas were as common as stars in the sky and likely as numerous.

Today’s owners may never have seen a seriously flea-infested dog (with or without tapeworms) – and just as people who have never seen a polio or tuberculosis victim may eschew vaccinations for those diseases, many people seem to regard any use of flea preventatives as dangerous and unnecessary. 

Ticks are also a very dangerous parasite to dogs and humans alike. Learn more about potentially fatal tick-borne diseases on dogs.

My generation, I guess, is the bridge. I am familiar with how fleas can sharply decrease the quality of life for a dog and cause secondary health conditions such as flea allergy dermatitis and infected “hot spots.” And in the age of social media, I’ve also seen Facebook groups populated by tens of thousands of dog owners who are certain that modern flea-preventative chemicals killed their dogs. While the numbers of dog deaths directly attributable to these products can’t possibly be as many as alleged, it’s clear that they do sometimes cause adverse health effects and even death.

What’s a responsible dog owner to do?

TAKE REASONABLE ACTION AGAINST FLEAS

A middle-ground, common-sense tactic is to use one of the modern-miracle flea-control products, but only when needed, and only as minimally as you can while still preventing fleas. If you’ve never seen a flea on your dog or in your home, don’t introduce these pesticides or medications for no reason! 

If, on the other hand, you’ve found fleas on your dog, or you just moved into a home with a carpet that’s literally hopping with fleas (the latter has happened to me more than once!), it makes sense to protect your dog as quickly as possible from the tiny blood-suckers. 

There are fewer than two dozen reputable flea-control products on the market and many more disreputable ones. It’s wise to familiarize yourself with the active ingredients in and potential side effects of these products, so you can be alert to any signs that they are working as they should, or causing adverse reactions that warrant further action to protect your dog.

Note: Any approach to a flea infestation will have the best chance of success if the dog’s entire environment is addressed. See this article for crucial steps in getting rid of an existing infestation: Getting Rid of Fleas in the House.

TYPES OF FLEA AND TICK PREVENTION PRODUCTS AVAILABLE

There are any number of tools at our disposal for controlling flea and tick populations, but beware! Each of them offers benefits and poses risks:

• Pesticide-laden (flea-killing) soaps, shampoos, dips, rinses, sprays, and powders. These products were the flea treatments of my youth and are just as dated. These early-generation insecticides may have contained highly toxic carbamates such as carbaryl and propoxur and/or bioaccumulating organophosphates such as chlorpyrifos, diazinon, and tetrachlorvinphos. Many of these products still are sold, even though they are more toxic to animals and less effective at killing fleas than the newer-generation products. 
• Pesticide-laden collars. The first plastic “flea collars” for dogs were coated with toxic, yet highly ineffective pesticides. Today, the material of the Seresto collar (originally introduced by Bayer, now owned by Elanco) is impregnated with pesticides (flumethrin and imidicloprid)that are slowly distributed over the dog’s skin over a period of months. 
• Topical “spot-on” pesticides. These products are administered in a small volume of fluid that is dripped out of a tube into one or more spots on the dog’s back in the area of his shoulder blades. The active ingredients generally constitute a fraction of the volume; the oily carrier liquid helps the product spread over the surface of the dog’s skin. The active ingredients in these products are neurotoxins specific to adult parasites. Some products also contain insect growth regulators, which prevent flea larvae from developing into adults. 

These products are regulated by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Some are available as over-the-counter products; some require a veterinary prescription.

• Long-acting oral medications. These products are fed to the dog; the active ingredients spread systemically through the dog. When the target species (flea and/or tick) bites the dog, it ingests some of the active ingredient and dies. This parasite-killing action generally lasts about a month. These products are available by veterinary prescription only.

Oral medications are regulated by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA).

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST FLEA TREATMENT FOR YOUR DOG

Of course, your veterinarian’s recommendation of a product that’s familiar to them is a good start. If your vet strongly promotes a particular product, ask why she likes that one for your dog over all the other possibilities. If she has a sound rationale, great! But take the time to examine the product and compare it to others; unless fleas are hopping all over the vet in the exam room, it won’t hurt to take a day so you can read up on the product she suggests, and possibly call back with any questions you have about other products. 

When considering your options, we also suggest:

• Don’t buy inexpensive flea-control products from grocery stores or “big-box” retail chains. Low-cost products are associated with a disproportionate number of adverse health effects. We don’t recommend products from the following companies: Adams, Hartz, Sentry, Sergeants, or Zodiak.  
• Keep it simple. While it may seem appealing to address as many parasites as possible with a single product, our bias is to go the other way – to treat your dog for only the parasites you know him to have (or those for which you have good evidence to support a suspicion of their presence). If, for example, your dog has fleas, but ticks are not present in your urban environment and you’re certain your dog does not have worms, treat him with something that’s just for fleas!

More ingredients are not necessarily better, despite what the pharmaceutical companies want you to think. When a pharmaceutical company’s patent on a new drug expires, other companies can create and sell generic versions of the same product, usually for less money. When a patent expiration draws close, their owners often add something to the original product, in an effort to create a new patent that will continue to earn money for the company in a protected market. 

This is the main reason that the pharmaceutical companies keep rolling out new products that address more parasites. In almost every case, they’ve added another pesticide, insect growth regulator, or flea-killing medication to an older product. 

The obvious problem from our view is that the more active ingredients a product contains, the more likely it is to have an adverse effect on your dog. So pick the simplest product that addresses your dog’s issue.

• Keep track of any adverse reaction your dog has had to any topical or oral flea-control product. If your dog ever experienced diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, or any other reaction within a few days of treatment with a particular product, make a big note for yourself in your dog’s health records. Let your veterinarian know, too, so you both make sure you don’t give your dog any products that contain the same problematic active ingredient. 

If your dog has a bad reaction to another product whose active ingredient is in the same class of drugs as the one that caused his first adverse event, make sure you switch to a product with an active ingredient of another chemical class. 

Below, we’ve listed the active ingredients in each of the best-quality products available, along with descriptions of what they do.

• Our bias is in favor of the Seresto collar over a spot-on pesticide, which we’d take over an oral drug. Why? Because if a dog seems to be having an adverse reaction, we can take the collar off and give him a series of baths in an effort to remove as much of the product as possible. The dog can be thoroughly washed if he’s had an adverse reaction after application of a topically applied product, too. 

For a further review on Seresto collars, read our article Are Seresto Flea and Tick Collars Harmful to Dogs?

In contrast, after a dog has digested an oral product, the full dose is working systemically in his body for a few weeks; there’s no mitigating his exposure to the medication.

That said, there are reasons that someone might choose an oral product over a topical one: 

• You may not want to have contact with a topical product as you (or your kids) pet the dog. This could also be true in a multi-pet household where pets groom each other.
• Dogs with longer coats often sport a “greasy spot” for several days after a topical product has been applied. This increases the concern of petting the dog and coming into contact with the pesticide.
• Bathing or swimming soon after application may reduce the effectiveness of topicals.
• Some ingredients used to kill ticks, such as permethrin, are toxic to cats. This can be a problem in a household that includes both, especially if they are friendly with each other. In that case, giving the dog an oral product would be safer for the cat.

HOW TO TREAT FLEAS ONCE YOU’VE SELECTED A PRODUCT

Here are more safety tips to observe after you’ve decided what product you’re going to use on your dog: 

• Don’t leave any flea-control product within the reach of any dog. This goes double for chewable oral medications that contain flavoring agents (which make them more tempting to your dog.) A kitchen counter or dining room table is not a safe place; a motivated dog who has never counter-surfed before can be fatally poisoned by chewing up and consuming a topical product, or suffer serious adverse effects from eating several months’ worth of medication. 
• Read all the label instructions for any product carefully before administering, especially the part about contraindications. 
• If your dog’s weight puts him near a border for the next-higher dosage, we’d recommend using the lower-dosage product. If your dog is at the low end of the weight range, consider doing the math and splitting the chew or tablet to give your dog an effective dose that’s appropriate for her size. 
• If you live in a place where a flea population is entrenched, keep your dog’s protection continuous while you use integrated pest management (IPM) to reduce the environmental population, indoors and outside, too. Management of fleas on pets must occur in conjunction with regular, thorough cleaning of pet resting areas indoors and out. Once fleas infest a home, total control will require a vigilant program that includes vacuuming, eliminating fleas on all the pets in the home, washing the dog’s bedding frequently, and treating outdoor areas where pets rest. 

Using a flea comb on your dog at regular intervals is a good way to monitor the flea population and help you decide when other control measures might be necessary. 

OVER-THE-COUNTER TOPICAL FLEA-KILLING PRODUCTS

PRESCRIPTION TOPICAL FLEA-KILLING PRODUCTS

PRESCRIPTION ORAL FLEA-CONTROL MEDICATIONS

If you’re reading this, I wish I were a dog at your house. The best owners want to find out what is wrong with their dog. Obvious problems like wounds or acting sick can be taken care of by your veterinarian. 

But what if the problem isn’t obvious? What if your dog just sits down crookedly? Is this a problem or not? What if your dog used to be able to jump up into the car, but now has trouble, or won’t even try? Is this something that can be fixed? What about how to know what is “just old age” as opposed to a treatable issue?

My goal is to change dogs’ lives. Very often I find that people believe that’s “just the way he is” or “my dog is getting old, which is why she can’t do certain things anymore.” But what appears as stiffness or a reluctance to participate in activities can simply be an alignment issue. Good news! Alignment issues can be resolved and your dog will seem “young again.”

Jump to: Body Checkup: Thoracic Spine 8-13

This book does not teach you how to be a veterinarian. But it does teach you how to find the area where your dog is hurting (even when it is not obviously hot or swollen). The direct result is you will be better informed and able to work with your veterinarian as together you try to alleviate the source of your dog’s pain or discomfort.

WHEN TO CONSIDER CHIROPRACTIC (AND WHEN NOT) FOR YOUR DOG

Chiropractic subluxations can be reflected by many different symptoms, whether behavioral, performance-related, or lameness-specific. I will deal with all three situations: 

Many dog owners and trainers quickly assume that when dogs are resistant they are just being cranky, stubborn, stupid, lazy, or they just don’t want to exercise. By “resistant” I mean resistant to training, or not playing as usual, or not wanting to go for a walk, jump up in the car, or go up or down the stairs, for example.

More likely, however, resistance can mean their head, back, legs (or joints), or feet hurt. Take a look at the sidebar below. The list of potential symptoms can help you “hear” what your dog’s behavior is telling you about his discomfort or pain. 

In addition, be especially mindful when you notice your dog can’t manage a movement he used to be able to perform. It might be a sudden change. Maybe there was a known traumatic event – a fall or injury – that caused the problem. However, many times we don’t know what happened: The dog just comes in from playing and suddenly has trouble climbing the stairs! 

Or, it might instead be a gradual change (a “worsening”) over a few weeks or months. Perhaps the sensitivity to being petted on his right side used to be just an irritated expression, but now, months later, if you even go near the right side, the dog is moving away from you.

Even a subtle sign such as the dog needing a longer and longer warm-up time before he can really run can be an indication of underlying pain. Many times we think the dog is just getting older, and in an effort to help, we throw in joint supplements and painkillers. It’s time for dog people everywhere to learn if and where their dog is hurting, before taking this (often expensive) step. 

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS TELLING YOU?

Your dog may show symptoms of lameness. A truly lame dog shows some kind of limp, with or without a head bob. When I refer to lameness in this book, I am primarily referring to “offness.” An “offness” is when the dog’s movement is somehow “wrong” or asymmetrical, but difficult to see or describe. 

Jump to: Common Symptoms for a Dog in Pain

“Offness” can be described in a variety of unique ways. People say things like:

• “He looks like a square peg in a round hole.”
• “She walks like two separate dogs, front and back. Like they’re not connected.”
• “I don’t think my dog knows she has a hind end.”
• “I notice my dog tripping on our walks, but there is nothing to trip on.”
• “There’s just something funky about how he’s moving.”

When you find yourself saying these types of things, it’s time to find out where your dog hurts and whether or not the primary cause of this problem is something you need to discuss with your veterinarian or chiropractor. 

First, with “offness” or lameness, consider this general rule: When your dog is obviously more “off” at trot rather than walk, start with your veterinarian. When he is obviously more “off” at walk rather than trot, start with your chiropractor. 

For example, if a Border Collie has an obvious head bob at the trot, and only a very subtle head bob at the walk, call your veterinarian. Conversely, if a Golden Retriever tracks up one inch shorter on the left hind at the walk, but tracks up evenly at the trot, it’s time to call the chiropractor. This rule is not 100 percent accurate, but it’s a great place to start.

These behavior, performance, and “offness” symptoms are typical of dogs with chiropractic subluxations that need correcting. Sometimes, however, dogs can have these same symptoms, yet the cause may not necessarily be chiropractic. The main, or primary, cause of the problem is what needs to be addressed first.

Primary causes are many: harness fit, vitamin and mineral imbalance, toenail lengths, teeth issues, leg-joint arthritis, tendon or muscle overstrain, medical internal issues, and more.

It is challenging to figure out whether symptoms of discomfort are from chiropractic subluxations or other primary causes that need a veterinarian’s attention, and which professional to aim for at first. 

Sometimes, you can start with a chiropractor but find the problem keeps coming back. In another case, there is a prior injury (for example, a tendon laceration that has built up scar tissue) that repeatedly causes chiropractic subluxations. 

A chiropractic maintenance schedule is certainly reasonable; however, multiple visits to correct the exact same chiropractic pattern are not the answer. Remember, a “muscle memory” effect does not occur if the primary cause has been resolved. Be wary of a chiropractor who tells you that due to muscle memory, multiple visits are needed for an adjustment to fully hold. When you continue to have the same problem over and over again, it’s time to search for a different primary cause.

In summary, when your dog has a behavioral, performance, or “offness” problem, first be sure your dog’s teeth, feet, diet, and collar/harness fit are all in good shape. Then call your vet when you have an “offness” that is more obvious at the trot. Otherwise, call your certified chiropractor for consultation.

Common Symptoms That Can Indicate Discomfort or Pain in Pets

HOW TO FIND A GOOD CHIROPRACTOR FOR YOUR DOG

This is described in an entire chapter in my book, but briefly:

In your search for a good canine chiropractor, I first recommend you educate yourself about the laws regarding animal chiropractic in your state. Typically, a state’s veterinary medical board will have this information, though sometimes you may also need to contact the human chiropractic board. The best way to find this is through an Internet search.

In most states there are one of two laws, or some version of them: 1) the animal chiropractor must be a veterinarian; or 2) the animal chiropractor must be “under the supervision” of a veterinarian. “Under the supervision” does not mean that the veterinarian has to be there, but rather that he is familiar with the dog and has referred the owner to the chiropractor. 

You need to find a certified chiropractor, ideally one who is practicing legally. Remember, such a person can be either a veterinarian (DVM or VMD) or a chiropractor (DC) to become certified in animal chiropractic. However, some state laws may allow only veterinarians to do chiropractic work on animals.

What is very best for your dog is to have your veterinarian – or certified chiropractor working with a vet (if that’s legal in your state) – do your chiropractic work. Having both the veterinary knowledge and the chiropractic training is ideal.

When searching for a chiropractor, start with the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (www.animalchiropractic.org). This organization certifies both veterinarians and human chiropractors for animal chiropractic care. Its website lists many of the available certified veterinarians and chiropractors by state and includes links. Not all certified practitioners are listed on the AVCA website, for various reasons. You can call the AVCA office and ask directly about an individual to find out whether he or she has been through the course and modules, and has passed the examination.

Watching an animal chiropractor work is one of the best ways to see if a person is doing a good job. Call a prospective practitioner and request information on his education, experience, and references, and then ask if you can watch him work on a dog.

Look for two things: the dog’s response and what the chiropractor is doing. First, if the dog doesn’t like the animal chiropractor, go with his instinct. Of course, many dogs get nervous being in a veterinary office; you know your dog best. Most dogs do not mind being around people with good healing intention. If you see a dog reacting poorly to an individual, don’t ignore it. 

If the dog initially likes the chiropractor, watch his expression during the adjustment. Signs of too much force include: laying ears flat back, trying to bite, and trying to get away. Some adjustments can be a bit uncomfortable because of the need to put pressure on a body part that already hurts. However, it’s only for a second or two. It’s like having a bad bruise pressed on momentarily before a warm cloth is added: you flinch but then relax when you feel the pleasant warmth.

It’s okay when you see brief tension followed by relaxation after the adjustment. You may also see signs of endorphin release from the adjustment, including licking of the lips, passing gas, lowering the head, and looking sleepy or glassy-eyed. Not all dogs show these signs of endorphin release, particularly when it is their first session of any type of bodywork. But you are just looking for the dog being comfortable overall. 

Body Checkup