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A Strong Recall Is Critical for Your Dog’s Water Play

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Editorial Staff
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Dog Dangers eBook from Whole Dog Journal

No matter how strong your dog’s recall may be (and we recommend it be quite strong if you’re considering letting your dog off-leash at the beach, lake, or river), it’s important to remember that the excitement of being in the water, coupled with the potential desire to swim out for a toy or chase a flock of ducks, could result in his recall falling on deaf ears.

Prior to fun water play, consider brushing up on your dog’s recall with the following:

Remember that coming when called is a skill that requires maintenance for the life of your dog. It’s easy to find yourself feeling “too busy” to train, but designating just 10 minutes a day to recall training can go a long way toward bolstering the skill.

Make sure your training includes teaching your dog to purposefully turn away from distractions in favor of coming to you. Avoid static recalls where the dog sits and waits as you leave, then call him to you. A “real life” recall rarely looks like that.

Reward generously every time your dog comes to you. Really invest quality time in the process of rewarding your dog. Combine genuine praise with the types of petting, play, and treats your dog loves best. Imagine that the process of rewarding your dog is the like making a deposit in the bank. You want to make hefty deposits because challenging recalls (especially away from distractions) are expensive. Make sure you can afford it!

Consider working your dog on a long line when you first get to the water and aren’t sure how your land training will carry over. Long lines are also a good alternative when local laws prohibit off-leash dogs.

If you’re struggling with teaching a reliable recall, consult a qualified trainer who can help you use positive reinforcement methods to strengthen your dog’s ability to come when called.

For a more comprehensive guide on keeping your dog safe, download Dog Dangers now.

Rules for the Game of Tug

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Editorial Staff
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Dog Bites eBook from Whole Dog Journal

A couple of decades ago, when positive reinforcement-based training was in its infancy, we were quite sensitive to criticism from the dog training community about this new “permissive” style of dog training. When we began encouraging people to play tug with their dogs, conscious of the fear that it would cause aggression, we created a detailed set of rules for playing tug, including the caveat that the human had to always “win” the game by gaining possession of the tug toy. As the passage of time supported our contention that tug does not cause aggression, we have softened those rules considerably. Here are the simplified tug rules that I now play by:

  1. Dog needs to sit politely and wait for the invitation to tug. If he leaps and grabs for the toy before being invited to do so (I use the cue “Tug!”) – I whisk the toy away and hide it behind my back. (In the language of behavior modification, this is called “negative punishment” – the dog’s behavior makes the good thing go away.
  2. When he remains sitting politely until invited to tug, we play. (This is “positive reinforcement” – the dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen.)
  3. If dog’s teeth leave the toy and touch human skin or clothing, the game stops with an “Oops!” (no-reward marker) and the toy goes away (negative punishment). Just for a moment – and then we can play again. (If he persistently mouths skin or clothing and/or mouthing escalates with tug play, that’s another behavioral issue; I would stop playing tug until the mouthing is under better control.)
  4. That’s it! I don’t care who “wins.” We can alternate! I really don’t care who initiates play; he can bring me the toy and ask me to play, or I can pick up the toy and start the game. There’s just one last really important rule: Go out and have some fun!

To find out how to manage stressors and prevent your dog from biting, download Dog Bites today.

Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization for Reducing Dog Reactivity

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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Dog Bites eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Counter-conditioning involves changing your dog’s association with a scary or arousing stimulus from negative to positive. Desensitization is starting with a very low-level intensity of aversive stimulus until the dog habituates to (or changes his association with) the aversive, and then gradually increasing the strength until the dog is comfortable with the stimulus at full intensity. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association and to help them become comfortable with a stimulus is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use chicken — canned, baked, or boiled; most dogs love chicken. Here’s how the CC&D process works.

  1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of another dog and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the threshold distance.
  2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present a neutral dog at threshold distance X. (Alternatively, station yourself and your dog at a location where people pass by with their dogs on leash at thresh-old distance X.) The instant your dog sees the other dog, start feeding bits of chicken, non-stop.
  3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the dog, and stop feeding chicken to your dog.
  4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation of the dog at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER) — your dog’s association with the other dog at threshold distance X is now positive instead of negative.
  5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the other-dog stimulus. You can do that by decreasing distance by several inches; by increasing the amount of time the neutral dog stays in sight; by increasing movement of the other dog at distance X; by increasing the number of dogs (two or three dogs, instead of one); or increasing the visual “threat” (a large dog instead of a small one, or allowing the neutral dog to make brief eye contact). I’d suggest decreasing distance first in small increments by moving the reactive dog closer to the location where the neutral dog will appear, achieving the CER at each new distance.
  6. Then return to distance X and add intensity of the neutral dog, gradually decreasing distance and at-taining CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the neutral dog reasonably close.
  7. Now, back to distance X, increase intensity again, by having your helper move more quickly with the neutral dog, have the dog do more vigorous behaviors — roll over, catch a ball, etc.
  8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually in-crease the length of time you have your dog in the presence of the increased-intensity neutral dog, until he’s happy (but not aroused) to have it present continuously.
  9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to the stimulus, obtaining the CER consistently at each new distance.
  10. When your dog is happy to have the higher intensity neutral dog stimulus close to him, you’re ready for the final phase. Return to distance X and obtain your CER there, with a full intensity neutral dog — zigzagging toward him, then approaching head-on. Gradually decrease distance until your dog is happy to be in the presence of other dog, regardless of that dog’s behavior. He now thinks the other dog is a very good thing, as a reliable predictor of very yummy treats.

To find out how to manage stressors and prevent your dog from biting, download Dog Bites today.

Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life

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Editorial Staff
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Do Over Dogs Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life

You have adopted your Do-Over Dog, brought him home, helped him adjust to the new changes in his world, instituted necessary management procedures, and started on an appropriate training program. In the best of all worlds, that would be all you’d need. But most Do-Over Dogs were in shelters for a reason. There are often behavior challenges that go beyond the simple need for basic good manners training.

Pre-owned dogs are more often than not surrendered to or left unclaimed at shelters and rescue facilities because of one or more difficult behaviors that the prior owner wouldn’t, or couldn’t, manage or modify. Even when the reason for surrender is “moving” or “landlord issues,” there is often some underlying behavior challenge that prompted the owner to give his dog up rather than make the effort to find new living arrangements that could include the dog.

Some of the problem behaviors are “minor,” relatively insignificant, easy to manage or modify, and/or not even a problem at all for you. People have different tolerance levels for different dog behaviors and what may seem perfectly normal and acceptable to you may have been a deal-breaker for the prior owner. Some behaviors are major, requiring a long-term strong commitment to management and/or modification. Perhaps you were informed about difficult behaviors before you made the decision to adopt – and perhaps you’ve discovered one or more behavior challenges after the fact. Perhaps you’re still discovering.

I cannot give you a timetable or predict how long it will take for you to resolve your dog’s problem behaviors. There are many variables that enter into the equation, including your dog’s past history (which you may have little or no knowledge of), what his behavior issues are, how strong the genetic influence, how long he’s been practicing inappropriate behaviors, and how successful they’ve been for him, as well as your own skill and commitment to applying management and modification protocols and the resources you have at your disposal. Many canine behavior problems are related at least in part to stress – the more stress, the greater the likelihood of significant problems. Most Do-Over Dogs have had more than their share of stress in their lives and behaviors that may have been mildly inappropriate at one time may have intensified with several rehomings or in a stressful shelter/kennel environment.

For more additional information and advice on the best ways to bring a new dog into your life – especially a stray, a rescue or a rehomed dog, buy Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs, Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life from Whole Dog Journal.

The Basics of Successful Housetraining

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Editorial Staff
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Do Over Dogs Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life

Do-Over Dogs are frequently not housetrained or poorly housetrained at best. This is especially true of dogs who have been rescued from puppy mill or hoarder situations. Housesoiling is a common reason why people give up their dogs. In addition, a Do-Over Dog who was housetrained previously may, due to the stress of a new environment, regress and make mistakes in his new home. So even if your new dog comes with an assurance he is housetrained, be wary and ready to treat him like a new puppy in the regard.

The basics

Poop and pee outside, not inside. It seems like such a simple concept, and indeed, many dogs are easily housetrained. But not all. We adopted our Scorgidoodle, Bonnie, from the Humane Society here in Hagerstown when she was about six months old. She was surrendered to the shelter because her owners couldn’t housetrain her. Now age four, she’s reasonably reliably with her housetraining, but she’ll never be one of those dogs you’ll fine waiting at the door with legs crossed if an emergency keeps you away from home for ten hours.

The basic premise of successful housetraining is: Take your dog out more often than he has to go, and supervise and manage to prevent accidents. For young puppies, that means outside every hour on the hour during the day, and crated or otherwise confined at night, where you can hear him if he wakes up and says he has to go out. As a pup matures, a general rule of thumb is that he can “hold it” for one hour more than his age in months. That is, a three-month-old pup might be able to go for four hours – up to a maximum of about eight hours on a regular for an adult dog. Remember, though, that it’s a general rule – there are certainly normal three-month-old puppies who can only hold it for two to three hours and adult dogs who can’t go longer than three or four. There are also canine saints who will maintain their housetraining when left alone for 10 or even 12 hours – but even with those I don’t recommend them to do so routinely.

For more ways to train any dog, buy Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs, Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life from Whole Dog Journal.

Rules of Tug

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Editorial Staff
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Do Over Dogs Book from Whole Dog Journal
Excerpted from Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life

Tug is a great game to play with your dog to work off energy and allow the two of you to roughhouse safely. It won’t make him “dominant” and it won’t make him aggressive or unruly, as long as you play by the rules. And it’s the process of being able to follow rules and exhibit a degree of self control that makes this game such a great one for Do-Over Dogs. The rules are designed to remind him that you are in charge (the leader controls the good stuff), and to let him know which behaviors are acceptable, and which ones are not when he’s playing exuberantly with humans.

Rules of Tug:

  1. Use a toy that is long enough to keep your dog’s teeth away from hands and that is comfortable for you to hold when he pulls. Keep the tug toy put away. Bring it out when you want to play tug.
  2. Hold up the toy. If he lunges for it, say “oops” and quickly hide it behind your back. It’s your toy – he can grab it when you give him permission.
  3. When he remains sitting as you offer the toy, tell him to “Take it!” and encourage him to grab and pull. If he’s reluctant, be gentle until he learns the game. If he’s enthusiastic, go for it!
  4. Randomly throughout tug-play, ask him to “Give” and have him relinquish the toy to you. If necessary, trade him for a yummy treat. After he gives it to you, you can play again (see steps 2 and 3). You should “win” most of the time – that is, you end up with possession of the toy, not the dog.
  5. While you are playing, if his teeth creep up the toy beyond a marked or imaginary line, say, “Oops! Too bad,” in a cheerful voice, have him give you the toy, and put it away briefly. (You can get it out and play again after a minute.)
  6. If your dig’s teeth touch your clothing or skin, say “Oops! Too bad,” and put the toy away for a minute.
  7. When you are done playing, put the toy away until next time.
  8. Children should not play tug with your dog unless and until you are confident they can play by the rules.

For more ways to play with and train any dog, buy Pat Miller’s Do Over Dogs, Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life from Whole Dog Journal.

How To Find Safe Rawhide Chews

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Editorial Staff
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Destructive Chewing eBook from Whole Dog Journal

The freshness factor alone is a good reason to try to buy American-made rawhide chews for your dog. But it’s also true that it’s less likely that illegal or toxic chemicals are used in the products’ manufacturing if the products are made in the United States. Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in low-quality hides.

Read that label carefully, by the way. The pet product manufacturers are aware that many pet owners see “Made in China” or other indications of foreign manufacture as a red flag, and they are ingenious at finding ways to make their products look as if they were domestically produced. I’ve seen products with American flags on the label that were made overseas. Even the phrases like “made in America” or “made from American beef” are abused; sometimes, the fine print will reveal that what’s meant is Mexico, or South or Central America. There is a difference!

Some companies have made a case for the use of South American (especially Brazilian) beef hides. They say that cattle there are raised on grass, with fewer hormones, pesticides, and antibiotics, resulting in a healthier, more natural rawhide. Their competitors in the U.S. counter that cattle raised in warm, equatorial climates are thinner skinned -resulting in thinner, less chewy chews -and that foreign manufacturing can be dicey. Both arguments have some merit, which is why I don’t use country of origin as my sole (or even the most important) selection criterion when shopping for dog chews.

Instead, I look at the thickness of the hide itself (thicker is better, because it will take longer for a dog to chew) and its color. Extremely white hides are unnatural; they have to be bleached and/or painted to appear so white. Natural or lightly bleached rawhides are a light tan, like a manila folder. These less-processed hides retain more of the natural flavor and aroma of the hide. “Basted,” smoked, and decoratively tinted products might be any color (or odor) underneath the coating of (often artificial) dyes and flavors, and so I avoid them.

Speaking of odor: It stands to reason that the dried skin of an animal would naturally present some aroma. However, a rawhide chew really shouldn’t smell rotten or putrid; such an odor could indicate a high bacterial load. On the other hand, neither should a rawhide chew be completely odor-free! This would indicate that the product had been subject to extreme bleaching and chemical treatment.

For more information on chew toys for your dog, purchase Destructive Chewing, an ebook from Whole Dog Journal.

Puppy Chewing Management

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Editorial Staff
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Destructive Chewing eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Ah, yes, management – the answer to so many behavior challenges. Puppies develop chew-object preferences in the early months of their lives, so the better you are at managing your pup’s access to non-chew items and directing him to desired chew objects, the sooner he will earn house freedom. If you give your baby dog the run of the house and he learns to chew on carpets, throw pillows, books, shoes, and coffee table legs, you will likely end up with a dog who chooses to exercise his jaws and teeth on inappropriate objects for years to come.

You’ll find yourself crating him frequently even as an adult dog, or worse, exiling him to a life of loneliness in the backyard, where he can “only” chew on patio furniture, potted plants, and the edges of your deck.

If, instead, you provide a variety of approved chew toys at an early age and manage your pup well to prevent access to your stuff, he’ll earn house privileges much sooner. By the end of his first year, you may be able to leave him alone safely while you go out to dinner, shopping – even while you’re away at work.

When you’re home, your puppy needs to always be under your direct supervision – for house-training as well as chew-prevention purposes. You may need to keep him on a leash or a tether, put up baby gates, or simply close the door of the room you’re in so he’s shut in with you and can’t wander into the bedroom to shred your shoes while your back is turned. If you’re too occupied to supervise, put him in his crate or exercise pen to keep him out of trouble.

Good management also requires “puppy-proofing” the house. Don’t leave shoes – a favorite of most unsupervised dogs – where your pup can get them. Put all inviting objects out of his reach, just as you would for a two-year-old toddler. If you can’t put electric cords out of his reach, you can slide them through a piece of PVC pipe or use a commercial product (such as the CritterCord) to prevent cords from getting chewed. The less often you have to intervene to retrieve something from him that he shouldn’t have, the better.

For more information on puppy chewing, purchase Destructive Chewing, an ebook from Whole Dog Journal.

Five Reasons for a Dog’s Destructive Behavior

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Editorial Staff
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Destructive Chewing eBook from Whole Dog Journal

Dogs are normally destructive for one or more of five reasons, none of which involve spite, malice, or “getting even.” The five reasons are:

  • Stress: Simply put, physical activity relieves stress. A stressed human may pace the floor, go jogging, chew her fingernails, or tap a pencil on the table or a foot on the floor. Chewing, digging, and other destructive behaviors are stress relievers for dogs. Stress-related destructive behavior can be relatively mild, or turn into full-blown separation anxiety.
  • Teething: A young dog can be in mild to somewhat severe discomfort when his new teeth are pushing through the gums, and until they are fully emerged at 18-24 months. Chewing helps relieve teething pain, which is one of the reasons puppies and adolescent dogs are such dedicated chewers.
  • Boredom: Busy dogs need something to do. The herding breeds especially can be workaholics; if you don’t give them a job, they’ll create one, and it may not be one that meets with your approval.
  • High jinks: Dogs explore the world with their mouths, and young dogs are particularly driven to explore the world around them, as so much of it is new and exciting. Does this taste good? Does this feel good? Is this fun to play with? In addition, baby dogs and juveniles tend to have high energy levels, and sometimes go on a rampage in a burst of feel-good energy, similar to a teenager who trashes the house with a beer party when his parents unwisely leave him home alone for a weekend.
  • Habit: If a dog is poorly managed and allowed to repeatedly engage in destructive behavior during his formative months (the first one to two years) he may develop destructive behavior habits that can continue throughout his life. In contrast, if he is well managed for his first two years, he is unlikely to pick up destructive behaviors later in life – unless his environment changes drastically and causes him undue stress.

For more information on managing dog demolition, purchase Destructive Chewing, an ebook from Whole Dog Journal.

Physical and Mental Stimulation

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Editorial Staff
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Decoding Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Edited by Debra F. Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and John Ciribassi, DVM, DACVB with Steve Dale

For dogs and humans alike, physical exercise is fundamental to good health. We all know the couch-potato lifestyle comes with a host of health problems. But in dogs, a lack of activity can also prompt nuisance behaviors. The majority of dogs were bred with a working purpose in mind—and that’s not just the herding and hunting breeds. For example, the seemingly dainty Yorkshire Terrier was originally meant for rat hunting. Providing dogs with vigorous, daily exercise has profound effects on their behavior. Tired dogs chew less, bark less, sleep more, and are more likely to relax when home alone.

A good daily workout and, if the dog is social, regular play sessions with other dogs are great ways to exercise a dog. So is time spent interacting with his owners, whether that’s playing hide-and-seek in the yard or coming along to the office.

If, like Anna’s rowdy, a dog gets hours of exercise every day and still tears through the trash or disembowels the bedroom pillows, it’s safe to assume he lacks mental stimulation. Much as people turn to crossword puzzles, books, chess games, and other brain-vitalizing activities for the fun of mental gymnastics, dogs need to solve doggie problems.

For one thing, dogs are meant to work for their food. When they were in the wild, nobody just handed them a bowl of kibble. Dogs are natural hunters and problem solvers so the more closely we can mimic this process, in many cases the less troublesome the dog will be to live with. Serving all the dog’s meals in a stuffed Kong or treat ball, in food dispensing devices, or through a game such as hide-and-seek or in food puzzle toys can relieve many nuisance behaviors.

Interesting edog toys are another great way to engage a dog’s brain. Dogs have distinct preferences when it comes to toys, so it’s worth doing a bit of sleuthing to figure out what hooks a particular dog. Some are never happier than when they get to dissect a stuffed toy; others can spend hours entertaining themselves with a rope toy. Get an assortment and switch them out each day so the dog doesn’t have time to get bored. Of course, you want to make sure you use safe toys so your dog does not ingest parts and pieces of his toys. There are especially tough toys available, including a variety of Kong toys, Jolly Balls, Buster Food-Cubes, and the Tug-a-Jug.

For additional advice on understanding your dog’s behavior, purchase Decoding Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

Training Solutions

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Editorial Staff
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Decoding Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Edited by Debra F. Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and John Ciribassi, DVM, DACVB with Steve Dale

The trick with all nuisance behaviors is to train and reward an aopposite or competing behavior. For example, Rowdy can’t jump on Anna if he’s sitting to greet her. He can’t bark at visitors if he has a toy in his mouth, or beg at the dinner table if he is in a down-stay on his bed, or pull on his leash if he’s by Anna’s side making eye contact every five seconds. Whatever bothersome behavior the dog is engaging in, think of something that would preclude it, and train that behavior consistently.

When training any new behavior, especially to replace a well-established nuisance behavior, patience and consistency are key. It can take a while for the dog to give up strategies that have worked for him consistently, but if he is no longer rewarded for them and is instead consistently reinforced for an alternative behavior, he will soon choose that new response every time. Stick with it. Because the unwanted behavior worked in the past, your dog will most likely try it again, but harder, before he will give it up. This is called an “Extinction burst.” It’s a sudden display of a behavior that was diminishing after you stopped rewarding it. It’s sort of like your dog saying, “Was she really serious about that?” Don’t give up; stick with your plan and you will be rewarded.

Training Alternate Behaviors:

  • To replace door dashing, train to sit or down before opening the door.
  • To replace eating trash off the ground, train to carry a toy or keep eye contact with you.
  • To replace barking at the doorbell, train to get a toy.
  • To replace digging up the roses, train to fetch or hide-and-seek with dog toys.
  • To replace pawing at you, train to put pawing on a cue—so he uses his paw for a “high five” or “wave” when asked.

For additional advice on understanding your dog’s behavior, purchase Decoding Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

Behavior Management Techniques

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Editorial Staff
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Decoding Your Dog Book from Whole Dog Journal
Edited by Debra F. Horwitz, DVM, DACVB and John Ciribassi, DVM, DACVB with Steve Dale

Nuisance behaviors can be changed to polite manners or managed to a point where they don’t bother us, depending on our preference.

Here are four strategies:

  • Management techniques
  • Training consistent interactions
  • Training solutions
  • Physical and mental stimulation

Management Techniques

Many annoying behaviors can be prevented or managed to a point where they no longer present a problem. Keep in mind that management isn’t training. The dog isn’t learning how we would prefer him to behave; he is simply prevented from behaving in an unwanted way in a situation because we control the options and outcomes. But management is a great short-term measure for getting relief, especially for young animals with nuisance behaviors, and it often works well enough to satisfy many people in the long term too. Management also keeps the dog from practicing the problem behavior and thus learning bad habits by repeating the same behaviors over and over again. For example, keeping your dog out of the kitchen prevents him from jumping on the counter and being rewarded by finding leftover food. If he isn’t allowed in the kitchen, he never learns that jumping on the counter yields rewards. Remember, for a behavior to be ongoing, it must be reinforcing for the dog; that is why he repeats it.

Management techniques might include setting up barriers such as baby gates and exercise pens, using humane anti-pull devices such as head halters or harnesses, and simply dog-proofing the house, stowing away food, and placing desirable things out of reach.

Substitute sitting for jumping on you by rewarding your puppy only when he is sitting. No punishment is needed, because he learns very quickly that when he sits, he gets what he wants. This allows him to explore different behaviors and make the correct decision.

The puppy will very likely offer this sitting behavior again. If you are consistent in your reactions, soon he will default into a sit position for greetings.

Behavior Management Techniques

To Prevent This, Do This

  • Jumping on visitors to the home: Put the dog in another room when the doorbell rings
  • Jumping on you when you come home: Throw treats on the ground or a ball to retrieve
  • Barking at passerby outside: Draw the curtains or restrict the dog’s access to the windows
  • Pulling on the leash: Use an anti-pull head halter or harness
  • Attacking the water hose: Put the dog inside while you are watering
  • Chewing on the furniture: Don’t allow access; use a baby gate or crate

For additional advice on understanding your dog’s behavior, purchase Decoding Your Dog from Whole Dog Journal.

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