With practice, your dog will learn to accept having his teeth brushed and your rewards are helping prevent dental decay and fresh dog breath. Credit: LittleCityLifestylePhotography | Getty Images
If your dog’s breath makes you feel like you’re going to pass out every time your pup exhales, it’s time for an intervention. You can freshen dog breath at home, but you must be diligent.
Best Way to Freshen Dog Breath
To start, get your dog’s teeth professionally cleaned by your veterinarian. This will give you a big boost in trying to freshen dog breath at home. Just like when you get a dental cleaning, your dog’s teeth will be scaled and polished to remove the nasty plaque and tartar that contribute to bad breath. Periodontal disease is a major cause of bad breath.
If your dog has signs of infection in his mouth, your veterinarian will prescribe antibiotics to kill the bacteria. Oral infections create a particularly pungent odor.
How to Freshen Dog Breath at Home
At home, work to keep your dog’s mouth sparkly clean.
You can brush your dog’s teeth with an enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs. Introduce brushing slowly – start by just letting your dog lick the toothpaste off a toothbrush. The enzymes in enzymatic toothpaste work to break down plaque just by being in the mouth. Over time, you will be able to add brushing action to really clean your dog’s teeth, but even if that never happens, the enzymatic toothpaste will help. We like the PetSmile system, which has enzymatic toothpaste and applicators without bristles; you can rub the stuff right on the teeth and gums, and many dogs prefer this method. Homemade toothpastes may be more economical, if you’re willing to do the work (no human toothpaste, as it isn’t made to be swallowed).
Dental chews and water additives are another easy way to help prevent plaque buildup on your dog’s teeth that cause odor. A prescription dental food may help dogs with chronic tooth issues and bad breath.
If you want to naturally freshen dog breath, provide your dog with safe chew items. These include raw marrow bones (given under supervision), carrots, apples, and even celery. Chewing works similarly to tooth brushing by physically removing the bacteria that creates plaque. Note: dental sprays aren’t highly regarded as effective.
Some dogs, like the Newfoundland, have an incredible combination of the ability to swim and the instinct to take care of you and become excellent water-rescue dogs. Credit: Zummolo | Getty Images
It’s a common myth that all dogs can swim.
Not all dogs have the coordination or the physique to swim. Some don’t even like to get wet. But other dogs–especially Labradors, Golden Retrievers, and Newfies–love the water and paddling around in it.
Most Chihuahuas, though, do not like water–because they have no fur and get cold– and they can’t swim– because their pads are so small. Plus, their tiny stature means they can be swept away by waves or currents. But there are exceptions in this feisty breed, individuals who love to swim once they learn.
Start With A life Jacket
Yes, that means that – although your dog might never be the canine Michael Phelps – you can teach most dogs to swim. How? Start slowly, stay calm and confident, and let the dog tell you what he wants to do.
If you’re going to teach him in your pool, build him a ramp to get in and out. It’s safer for him and for people already in the pool if he doesn’t just leap in. (And be absolutely certain he cannot access the pool if you’re not watching him.) If you don’t have a pool, find a lake or a slow stream with a sandy bottom and ankle-deep water to calmly introduce him to water and to moving through it.
Introduce him to swimming by either supporting his body by placing your forearms under his belly or by holding on to the handle at the top of the life jacket. Dogs will usually figure out how to swim by moving their legs in diagonal pairs if your support keeps them from fighting just to keep their heads above water. You can also touch their hind pads to make them move their hind legs.
Have fun in the water! Just make sure your dog doesn’t get overtired and unable to stay afloat.
Can French Bulldogs Swim?
For other dogs, like French Bulldogs, physiology and conformation has a lot to do with being unable to swim well. Dogs with heavy bones, wide chests, and short hair – Dobermans, Rottweilers, Bulldogs – generally don’t float well, so they tend to paddle with only their front legs and not go forward through the water. Thus, they sink, hind end first, which only adds to their panic.
Dogs with thick or long coats and lighter builds – Labs and Golden Retrievers – float more easily and stay warm in cold water. And the Newfoundland has giant, webbed paws that propel him purposely through the water, helping to make the breed outstanding at water rescue.
His film showed that dogs don’t do the doggie paddle! The motion is diagonal pairs–like trotting, except faster and with much greater range of motion, which is why swimming is great exercise for them.
Dr. Fish’s research also led him to believe that water mammals – whales, walruses, and sea otters–were originally land animals with long legs and large feet that were better suited to swimming. These then, over generations, became fins.
Avoid hookworm in dogs by not allowing your dog to sniff around in areas heavily populated by dogs who are not tested for parasites and may not be on a heartworm preventative that also prevents hookworms. Credit: Darwin Brandis | Getty Images
Hookworm in dogs is an intestinal parasite. Your dog can be infected by eating contaminated debris, intermediate hosts, and even when larvae penetrate the dog’s skin. Puppies can be infected with hookworm via the milk of an infected mom.
The hookworm is a nasty parasite. The worms (larval and adult) attach or “hook” into the intestinal wall. Once attached, they suck blood out of the tissues. They secrete anticoagulants to stop the blood from clotting. If the hookworms move on to a new site, they leave ulcerated areas behind.
An important note is that hookworms are a zoonoses, a disease spread between animals and humans. This means you can be infected with hookworms, too. Hookworms are an important cause of cutaneous larva migrans, an infectious syndrome in people with red, twisty lesions on the feet and arms where larvae have borrowed in.
Hookworm Symptoms in Dogs
The signs of hookworms in dogs are worst in puppies, especially young puppies who got hookworm from nursing. These puppies can bleed out, becoming so anemic from a heavy load of hookworms that they die. Slightly older puppies also may show respiratory signs as immature hookworm larvae migrate through the lungs on their way to the small intestines.
Symptoms of hookworms in older dogs are less obvious, as older dogs have a bit more resistance than puppies. Healthy dogs may not show many symptoms, but they can pass hookworm eggs in their stools, which can be picked up by other dogs.
Senior dogs, dogs with a chronic illness, and dogs who are stressed will show more symptoms. These dogs will lose weight, may stop eating, and become weak from malnutrition and anemia. Often, dogs infested with hookworms will have black stools due to digested blood.
Panacur C used alone is also generally effective. Unfortunately, some resistant strains of hookworm are being identified and may require a combination of drugs. This makes it extremely important that you follow your deworming with fecal checks to be sure that treatment was effective.
Reinfection of Hookworms in Dogs
This parasite can survive for months outside, although freezing temperatures kill off many larvae. It can also survive encysted in your dog’s tissues, only becoming reactivated with pregnancy or stress.
Prevention is best done via regular poop patrol of your yard and avoiding places with large numbers of dogs who are not tested for parasites (like unregulated dog parks with high traffic). Luckily, monthly heartworm medications will stop many hookworm infections before they get well established.
Some dogs love pineapple, and pineapple is safe for dogs in small amounts, but always without the outer skin and inner hard core. Credit: Veronika Gaudet | Getty Images
You can feed your dog pineapple. To feed pineapple to your dog, cut it just like you do to eat yourself. Cut off the tough outer skin and remove the hard core. Then cut the soft, flavorful flesh of the pineapple into bite sized chunks. But not all dogs like pineapple because of its acidity, so don’t be offended if your dog declines your offer.
Pineapple has a variety of vitamins and minerals as well as fiber, all of which can be beneficial for dogs. That said, your dog doesn’t need pineapple to get any of these things, and he gets all the nutrients that he requires from his complete and balanced diet (view our Whole Dog Journal Approved Dog Foods list).
Avoid sharing canned pineapple with your dog, as canned fruits are often loaded with added sugar. Not good for your dog (or for you!).
Pineapple for Dogs Who Eat Poop: Not Worth the Hype
Pineapple juice is sometimes touted as a home remedy for dogs who eat poop. The theory is that by feeding pineapple to all the dogs in the house, it will make their stool too acidic for the culprit to enjoy.
Swollen lymph glands do not always mean a dog has cancer but if a dog has swollen lymph glands, he should be examined by his veterinarian. It’s possible he’s just fighting an infection. Photo by Oleksandra Polishchuk, Getty Images
Lymph nodes are small bean-shaped glands that play a key role in the body’s immune system. Lymph, the clear or milky fluid that circulates through the nodes, contains infection-fighting white blood cells. When a dog is fighting off a virus or infection, your dog’s lymph nodes will become inflamed. A dog’s swollen lymph nodes may be the earliest sign that he has sustained an infection or has developed canine lymphoma (a cancer of the lymph glands), so know dog lymph node locations and checking their lymph nodes regularly can lead to a quick diagnosis, treatment, and recovery.
There are over 400 lymph nodes in your dog but only a few are close enough to the skin’s surface to be observed. Though few, these key nodes are important indicators of infection.
Finding Dog Lymph Node Locations
The nodes you can feel through your dog’s skin and hair are:
In the neck and lower jaw (submandibular).
In the chest or front of the shoulders (prescapular).
In the front of the armpits (axillary).
Inside the groin (inguinal).
Behind the knees (popliteal).
You can check these dog lymph node locations while petting or massaging your dog. Gently feel under her jaw on both sides, then move to the front of her shoulder blades on both sides of the neck and on the chest, then on the inner thigh, and behind her knees on both hind legs.
For a video demonstration of locating and palpating a dog’s lymph nodes, see “Where Are My Dog’s Lymph Nodes?” with veterinarian Sue Ettinger, DVM, on YouTube.
Swollen lymph nodes can feel firm, like a grape under the skin, or like a noticeable lump. While associated with cancers such as lymphosarcoma, lymph nodes can swell after vaccinations, when your dog is exposed to bacterial or fungal infections, or when your dog is dealing with demodectic mange, parasites, or a tick-borne illness.
Lymph transports proteins and fats throughout your dog’s body while trapping and removing metabolic wastes, dead cells, and other pathogens. Because the lymph system doesn’t have a pump the way the circulatory system is pumped by the heart, it depends on your dog’s physical activity to circulate. Giving your dog regular exercise is one way to keep his lymph in motion and another is with frequent brushing, from head to tail.
Keep a record of lymph node changes
Checking your dog’s lymph nodes every month will make it easy for you to notice and document changes along with other symptoms that might be significant, such as changes in appetite, behavior, energy level, etc. To make sure your dog’s swollen lymph nodes are not cancer, bring your dated list of lymph node changes and other symptoms to your dog’s annual wellness exam. These notes can help your veterinarian make an accurate diagnosis.
For consistency, consider checking your dog’s lymph nodes every month on the same day of the month. You can keep track of observations and changes on a calendar or download a free Dog Wellness Journal at the National Canine Cancer Foundation website, wearethecure.org.
Most dogs will happily sign up for toothbrushing, when the toothpaste you use is homemade and full of delicious ingredients. (However, you actually need two hands to do a good job. Use one to lift your dog’s lips so you can see where you are scrubbing.) Photo by Oscar Wong, Getty Images
What’s the best way to keep your dog’s teeth clean and her breath fresh? There are dozens of canine toothpastes, but homemade dog toothpaste and other dental products you make yourself is an easy, economical way to support your dog’s oral health with natural ingredients. Whether you use a made-for-dogs toothbrush or a finger sleeve designed for canine tooth cleaning, routine brushing exponentially improves your dog’s dental health.
You can experiment to design a custom toothpaste for your pup. The basic recipe calls for some sort of edible oil, which makes the lubricating base for the dog toothpaste; I love to use high-quality unrefined or “virgin” coconut oil for this purpose. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is used as an abrasive cleaning agent. And you can use a variety of foods as flavoring agents that will help your dog enjoy the brushing experience.
Is baking soda bad for dogs?
Baking soda is the most popular DIY toothpaste ingredient because it is widely available, inexpensive, and cleans teeth mechanically by scrubbing plaque and surface stains with mild abrasion. In addition, it helps prevent bad breath.
Some veterinarians warn that baking soda shouldn’t be used in homemade dog toothpaste because if enough is swallowed, it can upset the stomach and digestive tract (remember, dogs don’t spit out the toothpaste, but will end up swallowing much of what you use). However, according to Blackwell’s Five-Minute Veterinary Consult by G. Oseiler,et al (Wiley-Blackwell, 7th Edition, 2021), symptoms of baking soda toxicity tend to occur after a dog has ingested 10 to 20 grams of baking soda per kilogram of body weight, which equates to about 1 to 2 tablespoons baking soda per pound of weight. Dogs are unlikely to be harmed by the tiny amounts that end up in their mouths, given that the baking soda is used in a relatively small amount, combined with other ingredients, and applied in tiny amounts on the toothbrush.
Ingredients to use in homemade dog toothpaste
Dog toothpastes often employ an edible fat as the base. Keep in mind that the toothpaste should be refrigerated after mixing the ingredients together. Here are some good choices to consider for the base:
Coconut oil is recommended for canine tooth cleaning because its medium-chain fatty acids have antimicrobial effects. In addition, coconut oil has a soap-like consistency when it interacts with saliva, which helps prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. To melt coconut oil, place it in a measuring cup placed in hot water or briefly microwave.
Olive oil and other vegetable oils are attractive to most dogs and, in small amounts, they are effective flavoring agents. In addition, they help distribute other ingredients during brushing.
Pan drippings from roasted meat or chicken combine favorite flavors with gelatin that, when refrigerated, stays on a toothbrush and encourages dogs to enjoy the brushing process.
Candidates to use as flavoring agents for dog toothpaste have to appeal to dogs, not us. So forget the minty flavors that humans enjoy. Here are better choices for dogs:
Bouillon, a concentrated meat stock sold as a paste or powder, can be added to home-prepared toothpastes. Look for salt-free or low-salt bouillon, or use very small amounts.
Brewer’s yeast is a strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is used in beer making, hence its name. It is sold as a nutritional supplement powder because of its high vitamin B content, minerals, and amino acids, and it is added to some dog foods to enhance their flavor.
Yogurt and kefir are fermented milk products known for their beneficial bacteria, which help maintain a balanced oral (as well as digestive) microbiome. Use plain, unflavored products.
Herbs and spices like mint, ground cinnamon, and parsley are often recommended. Try them, but let your dog decide whether they’re worth including.
To make the dog toothpaste, combine 1/4 cup coconut or other vegetable oil with 2 tablespoons baking soda, 2 tablespoons yogurt, and a few pinches of any other dog-safe flavoring agents in a small glass jar. If you want to use bouillon, stir 1 teaspoon beef or chicken bouillon into 1 tablespoon hot water and then mix into the base with the other ingredients. Stir well, refrigerate, and when ready, apply some to your dog’s toothbrush.
If a dog truly enjoys your touch, he will lean into your hands. This dog’s closed eyes and relaxed expression make it clear that he loves this contact. Photo by Chalabala, Getty Images
I don’t think I’ve ever had a dog whom I enjoy petting as much as I enjoy my 8-year-old Pit Bull-mix Woody. He has a firm, well-muscled body, a short, clean coat, silky ears, and the most smooshable jowls . . . if you like dogs, it’s just a pleasure to run your hands all over him.
If only he liked it as much as I do!
Sometimes, he does. At night, when the family is all snuggling on the couch, he loves to curl right up next to me and I can tell he enjoys having those thick muscles on his neck and shoulders massaged. And there are other times when he seeks out – insists on – being petted or having his butt scratched. But there are also times when he will back away from me or someone else who wants to pet him, duck out from under an outstretched hand, or, so subtly most people wouldn’t notice it, ever so slightly pull his ears down and backward when someone touches him.
Two-year-old Boone, in contrast, is a touch sponge. If you start petting him, prepare to be there for a while, because he wants more, more, MORE! He will even tolerate invasive touch between his toes or investigations of his ears, as long as you keep touching him.
People need to pay attention to their own dogs to figure out whether their dogs like being petted, or if so, when and where. I can’t tell you how frequently I see people pet (or worse, pat) their dogs when they are talking to someone, or otherwise distracted, while their dogs duck and try to wriggle away, not in the mood for petting at that time. Lots of people pet their dogs – or enthusiastically ruffle their fur – when they are trying to provide praise and reinforcement, and sometimes some dogs love that! But other times, the dog is too busy or distracted or concentrating on the tasks at hand, and is actively avoidant of the person’s intended “reward.”
When you intentionally look for clues as to whether or not a dog wants to be petted (or massaged or have his fur ruffled), you’ll see them. If a dog leans into the touch, visibly relaxes into the person’s hands, or climbs into the person’s lap, they like it. If they seem to ignore the person entirely or move away, they are saying as politely as possible, “No thanks!” And if we persist, we are, in effect, punishing them! Subjecting them to touch they do not enjoy is not only insensitive, if you think about it, it’s creepy – and may well make them avoid you in the future.
It can hurt your feelings, having your dog reject your touch. But it shouldn’t! They have a right to their honest opinion of what feels good and what does not! And if we pay attention and try to figure out what they like (and don’t like), we can increase their enjoyment of being touched, groomed, or massaged, and deepen their overall appreciation of us. And anything we can do to make them enjoy us more will improve our relationship and communication even more.
Carrots and other vegetables are good for dogs, and most dogs love carrots. Dogs can enjoy many vegetables. Credit: Iuliia Bondar | Getty Images
Can dogs eat vegetables? Yes, dogs can eat vegetables. Dogs can eat celery, and carrots are especially good for dogs. Dogs can eat broccoli, too, but you may want to limit the quantity. Dogs can even eat cabbage. Frankly, the number of dog safe vegetables may surprise you!
Dogs love veggies, and most dogs have their favorite vegetables! But there are some things you should know about feeding your dog vegetables.
Are Carrots Good for Dogs?
Any dog safe and dog friendly vegetable list should start off with carrots. Carrots are healthy and great for chewing for teething puppies (when do puppies stop teething?) and teenage chewers. Plenty of vitamin A and fiber in this veggie! Plus, most dogs seem to truly love carrots, whether fed raw for chewing or cooked and added to their food or as a treat.
Dogs and Broccoli
The cruciferous vegetables are good within reason, meaning in small amounts and always cooked. These include broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and cabbage. These vegetables have plenty of fiber but can be irritating to a dog’s gastrointestinal tract (especially raw) and may contribute to some bladder problems. Dogs who are prone to flatulence get a jump start from these vegetables, so beware!
Dogs Can Eat Celery
Celery is an excellent vegetable for dogs. My friend’s Corgi loves celery as much as any other treat. Celery has plenty of vitamins A, B, and C. Best of all, from the dog’s viewpoint, celery is crunchy fun for your dog.
Pumpkin for Dogs
Pumpkin, especially canned plain pumpkin, is a hit with many dogs and their owners. With lots of fiber, some canned pumpkin added to your dog’s diet can help with both diarrhea and constipation. Make sure it is “plain” and not the “ready for pie” version. The pie version has seasonings, spices, and may contain xylitol, which is very toxic to dogs.
Dogs Love Green Beans
Green beans are another favorite of many dogs and owners too. Green beans are also good for adding fiber to your dog’s food and making him feel full while you diet off any extra pounds. Many dogs consider a couple of frozen green beans the best treat ever.
Squash for Your Dog
Many dogs like to raid squash from your garden including zucchini, acorn, delicata, and spaghetti squash. While they can nosh on it raw, squash is best for your dogs if it’s cooked. Again, don’t add seasonings, spices, or butter.
Corn for Dogs
Many dogs enjoy corn, but you must feed it off the cob and preferably. No need to add butter and salt for your dog.
Vegetable Soup for Dogs
My dogs love soup in the winter. I start with ground beef or turkey and add celery, carrots, cut squash, and often some broccoli or cauliflower. I add low-sodium bouillon or just plain water. No seasonings. This is not a balanced diet, of course, but I use it as a topper for their regular diet. (You can make your own bone broth, too.)
A word of caution: It’s a big no to onions, and that includes chives, leeks, and shallots. These can all cause anemia in dogs and be toxic in large amounts.
Strawberries are a safe treat for dogs, offering them the benefits of antioxidants, fiber, vitamins, and manganese. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images
Dogs can eat berries, and many berries are a delicious and nutritious addition to our dogs’ regular food and as a treat. Your dog can eat fresh or frozen berries, and they can be used as treats or given with meals. Avoid berries that have added sugars or other sweeteners and always rinse them before feeding them to your dog.
Safe berries for dogs are easily found at farm stands and in your grocery store:
Blueberries
Raspberries
Blackberries
Strawberries
Cranberries
While these berries are safe for your dog, eating too many could still lead to some stomach upset. Start by just giving your dog a couple berries at a time.
Blueberries for Dogs
Blueberries are a source of antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins. They are also an excellent low-calorie treat if your dog is watching her waistline.
Raspberries for Dogs
Raspberries are a source of antioxidants, fiber, vitamins, and manganese. Both red and black raspberries are a healthy snack for dogs. If you have raspberry bushes in your yard, you may have even caught your dog picking some for herself!
Blackberries for Dogs
Blackberries are also a source of antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins. Blackberries are shinier than black raspberries, but both are safe for your dog.
Strawberries for Dogs
Strawberries are a source of antioxidants, fiber, and vitamin C, plus may help to whiten your dog’s teeth. You can feed strawberries fresh, frozen, or even dehydrated (mess-free in your pockets!). If there are wild strawberries on your property, you may notice your dog foraging for them herself.
Cranberries for Dogs
Cranberries are a source of antioxidants and vitamins, and may also help to support your dog’s urinary tract health. As with any berry, be sure to avoid ones that have sugar or artificial sweeteners added, as these ingredients are not beneficial to your dog.
Although how long dogs can go without water before showing signs of dehydration is 24 hours, it’s a good idea to carry water and a bowl if you’re going on a long walk. Credit: PK-Photos | Getty Images
A dog will start to show signs of dehydration after 24 hours without water. Dehydration occurs when a dog loses body fluids faster than he can replace them. It involves a loss of water and electrolytes, whether due to illness (especially vomiting and/or diarrhea) or inadequate fluid intake.
Dehydration can cause a dog to dry vomit and/or have diarrhea, both of which increase the dog’s dehydration. A dehydrated state affects your dog’s circulation, which means when the dog is dehydrated the heart must work harder and the brain may not get enough oxygen and nutrients. Severely dehydrated dogs who have gone too long without water can go into shock and die. Dehydration can quickly become a medical emergency.
Signs of Dehydration in Dogs
A dry mouth, dry nose, and excessive panting with thick saliva instead of liquid drool are mild signs of dehydration but a huge warning that your dog has gone too long without water and needs immediate access to clean, fresh water.
Symptoms your dog is dehydrated may include:
Loss of skin elasticity (skin doesn’t immediately spring back into place when lifted up)
Dry mouth (gums appear dry and tacky instead of moist and shiny)
Thick saliva (not clear)
Sunken eyes (in advanced cases)
Signs of shock, such as collapse (in advanced cases)
The serious signs of dehydration appear quickly. His eyes look sunken. His skin will “tent up” if you pinch a bit (gently) by his shoulders. Normally, that skin should snap back into place. These warnings mean internal problems are starting to reflect the poor hydration. A dog who has gone too long without water may need veterinary attention. The effects of dehydration can harm your dog.
Dogs should have constant access to water, 24 hours a day. While the maximum time a dog can go without water is 48 to 72 hours, that’s for a healthy adult dog. Dogs with special needs, like puppies, seniors, and sick dogs, cannot go that long.
Prevent Dehydration in Dogs
Make sure your dog has access to fresh, clean water. If he’s in a crate or ex-pen while you’re out of the house, be sure you’ve left him with water. If you will be away for hours, consider freezing a bowl of water so it will slowly melt. That way, spillage is reduced, and there is renewable, cold, clean water for your dog to drink.
Your dog should have fresh water available all the time (learn how much water your dog needs to drink), and it should be changed at least daily. Water is essential for many bodily functions, including making urine to remove toxic metabolic wastes. Water helps your dog to thermoregulate when he is hot by panting. Blood flow, nerve and muscle function, and electrolyte balance are all affected by hydration. No dog should ever go without water long enough to enter a state of dehydration.
If your dog is digging at dirt and then eating it, chances are he smells something tasty in the dirt. Credit: Capuski | Getty Images
There is no single reason why dogs eat dirt. Healthy dogs may eat some dirt or suddenly start eating grass if they smell something tasty in it, but a little bit of dirt eating is nothing to worry about. However, if your dog is eating large amounts of dirt, she could be suffering from a vitamin or mineral deficiency that she is trying to remedy. Maybe. While there’s a lot of anecdotal support for this theory, research is fairly inconclusive as to exactly why dogs (and people, for that matter) consume dirt.
Pica is another reason why dogs eat dirt and other inedible items. Pica in dogs is a behavioral condition where the dog frequently chooses to eat non-food items. Besides being annoying, pica can lead to broken teeth, intestinal blockages, or even toxicity.
Grass is not typically a target for dogs with pica, but it is possible. Suspect pica if your dog is eating large quantities of grass multiple times a day, especially if he is also eating non-food items such as your carpet.
Pica: Why Dogs Eat Dirt, Rocks, and Fabric
Dirt, rocks, and fabric items (such as clothing or upholstery) are some of the more “popular” things for dogs with pica to eat, but it could be anything. Dogs often like to chew on wood, too.
The key difference between normal dog chewing behaviors and pica is that the dog seeks out the non-food item(s) repeatedly.
If your dog consistently seeks out non-food items to eat, your veterinarian will start by doing a medical workup. Your dog will receive a full physical exam, bloodwork, and a fecal analysis. Health problems in the digestive tract, such as inflammatory bowel syndrome (IBS), intestinal worms or other parasites, or malnutrition, are some of the more common medical causes of pica in dogs.
Once medical issues have been ruled out, your veterinarian will investigate behavioral disorders that may be contributing to your dog’s pica. You should know how to recognize the signs of stress in a dog because it can be a cause of pica, along with anxiety, boredom, and obsessive-compulsive disorders. This is because the act of eating releases endorphins that make the dog feel better.
Aggression, self-mutilation, phobic or extreme fear, obsessive or compulsive behaviors, and severe separation anxiety are the behaviors that most frequently prompt a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist. Photo by smrm1977, Getty Images
All experts approach problems from the perspective of their education and experience. Given a dog with problematic behavior, a trainer may recommend equipment changes, behavior modification, and management steps. A veterinarian may prescribe medications that reduce anxiety and increase social behavior.
However, behavioral problems can result from neurochemical imbalances, medical conditions, past life experiences, current living conditions, and every combination of these. Veterinary behaviorists are uniquely positioned to use tools from both medicine and behavior science to most accurately diagnose and efficiently treat dogs with severely problematic behavior, such as aggression, self-mutilation, phobic or extremely fearful behavior, obsessive or compulsive behaviors, and severe separation anxiety.
One of the most valuable benefits of working with a veterinary behaviorist is their extensive knowledge of how psychotropic medications can further your dog’s behavior modification program. (By law, only veterinarians can prescribe or give you prescription medication for your dog.)
Some owners are resistant to using behavior medication for their dogs. Sometimes their resistance stems from working with a veterinarian who wasn’t experienced enough with behavior-modifying medications to tweak the dog’s prescriptions for the best results. The client’s dog may have been given medication that was too strong (“I don’t want my dog to be a zombie!”) or too weak (“It didn’t do anything!”).
This is sad, because often medication can make the most impactful contribution to improving the dog’s quality of life. In many cases, the right medication(s) can make a good training professional’s behavior-modification program much more successful, much sooner. If you are working with a skilled training professional, the addition of the right medication might make the visit with the behaviorist unnecessary!
But if neither your trainer nor your vet have answers to your dog’s challenging behavior – or when they are failing to work together to provide an all-encompassing treatment plan for your dog – a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist is well worth the cost.
THE TERM “BEHAVIORIST” IS IN WIDE BUT VARIABLE USE
Would it surprise you to learn that literally anyone can call himself or herself a behaviorist? The title means nothing. There are any number of dog trainers – qualified and unqualified, educated and uneducated – who call themselves behaviorists. However, here are a few titles that include “behaviorist” that actually do mean something:
-Veterinary behaviorist. Only licensed veterinarians who have been certified by the can use the title of veterinary behaviorist. The formal term is Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB). You can find veterinary behaviorists at dacvb.org/search/.
-There is another professional organization that has “veterinary” and “behavior” in its title – the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) – but it does not provide certification of any kind. Veterinarians and persons holding a PhD in animal behavior or a related field may join this membership organization, but it does not confer certifications or presuppose a level of expertise in animal behavior. Behavior consultants who are members of AVSAB are listed on its website (avsab.org/directory/).
-Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) and Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (ACAAB). These are scientists, educators, or other animal professionals with advanced academic backgrounds in the principles of animal behavior. Certification for these titles is provided by the Animal Behavior Society, which describes its certificants this way: “A professional applied animal behaviorist has demonstrated expertise in the principles of animal behavior, in the research methods of animal behavior, in the application of animal behavior principles to applied behavior problems, and in the dissemination of knowledge about animal behavior through teaching and research.” You can find these professionals at animalbehaviorsociety.org/web/committees-applied-behavior-directory.php.
-Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC) and Certified Animal Behavior Consultant (CABC). These certifications are bestowed by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC), which offers animal credentialing examinations for several animal species and specialties. Obtaining a CDBC credential indicates a superior level of knowledge as well as skill in practical application of behavior change principles following least intrusive, minimally aversive (LIMA)-based strategies.
What to Expect From a Veterinary Behaviorist Consultation
It’s often faster and more efficient to have the same professional provide behavior modification and medical recommendations. This helps the dog feel better sooner, too! Photo by Justin Paget, Getty Images
A particularly thorough medical and behavior history is the first prerequisite for any veterinary behaviorist consultation, with the behavior history being the longest and most detailed part of the intake form. When did the problematic behavior first start, how often does it happen, and how has it changed?
The behaviorist also needs to know what interventions have been tried and how the dog responded to those treatments. The intake form will also ask the owner, “What are your goals for your dog? What outcome do you hope for?”
If the problematic behavior is unlikely to be observed in a veterinary office setting, the owner will be asked to try to capture video of the dog while he’s displaying the troubling behavior. Video can often provide the most valuable clues to the causes or significant contributors to the dog’s behavior.
After reviewing all of the above, the veterinary behaviorist will then meet with the dog and owner in order to observe the dog’s behavior first hand (or at least via a video conference).
At the end of the first visit, the client is usually given some management strategies that can be implemented right away – especially if the dog’s behavior has the potential for endangering anyone.
Afterward, the veterinary behaviorist will prepare a comprehensive treatment plan for the dog’s owner, which is typically reviewed and discussed in a subsequent appointment. The plan may include a request for medical tests (or further medical tests) in order to diagnose or rule out medical contributors to the problematic behavior. Usually, it will also include recommendations for the owner to undertake behavior modification exercises under the guidance of a training professional working with or recommended by the veterinary behaviorist.
The treatment plan may also recommend the use of supportive therapies such as supplements, nutritional therapy, and/or prescription medications (when appropriate).
Because there are few veterinary behaviorists, it’s impossible for many dog owners to book an in-person consultation with one. That’s why most of these professionals also offer phone or video consultations with their clients’ veterinarians. Instead of seeing the dog and owner, they will review the veterinarian’s report of the dog’s issues and directly communicate with the dog’s veterinarian to offer suggestions for further medical testing, medication, and behavioral interventions.
HOW TO BECOME A VETERINARY BEHAVIORIST
Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians who have achieved board certification in the specialty of veterinary behavior. Certification takes a minimum of three years of study and training after a candidate has obtained a veterinary graduate degree. The certifying board for this specialty is the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB); certificants, who are known as Diplomates, may use the initials DACVB along with DVM after their names.
To gain board certification, candidates must complete at least one year of internship or primary care practice. They must also undertake additional behavior-specific training, which includes at least three years of case supervision by an established DACVB. They must also conduct original behavior research that earns publication in a peer-reviewed journal, author three formal case reports that are approved by a review committee of Diplomates, and pass a rigorous two-day board examination administered by the ACVB.
There are only about 95 DACVBs located throughout the world (though other countries also certify veterinary behaviorists).
Some veterinary behaviorists have a solo practice, where they provide clients with support and referrals to other training or medical professionals as necessary. Others work in group practices, where other staff veterinarians can provide any diagnostic tests that the veterinary behaviorist recommends and staff trainers will work with the client and the client’s dog on behavior modification exercises.
Sample Case History
We asked a veterinary behaviorist to describe a typical case to illustrate how these professionals draw on their medical and behavioral expertise differently than their vet or trainer peers. Chris Pachel, DVM, DACVB, CABC, owner of the Animal Behavior Clinic in Portland, Oregon, accommodated us with a description of one of his veterinarian-to-veterinarian consultations.
The patient was a 3-year-old, intact male Labrador who had perpetrated a number of troubling episodes of what was described as unpredictable and unprovoked aggression in his home. His humans were highly experienced dog owners who were active in dog sports and had other dogs in the home, including additional dogs who would sometimes stay with them in a casual boarding scenario.
While the patient was usually a social butterfly with an affable temperament, the owners described a number of incidents where he had suddenly behaved aggressively. Fortunately, they had three of these incidents captured on video, thanks to their home security system.
One incident, where the patient became aggressive with his male owner, occurred in the backyard of the home when other dogs were present. In another incident, the dog aggressed toward that man’s mother when she moved a chair that was three or four feet from the dog. In the third incident captured on video, the patient aggressed toward a visiting dog.
Since the patient was perfectly social and appropriate in between these incidents – even in situations that were identical to the conditions in which he showed aggression – the owners brought the dog to their vet. About six months prior to the first aggressive incident, the dog had slipped and fallen with his front legs splayed out in an unnatural position. His owners were concerned that he might be experiencing pain that caused him to lash out at others.
On physical exam, their vet did find some pain and prescribed pain medication. The dog’s pain went away, but the troubling behavior did not. So, with the clients’ approval, the veterinarian scheduled a consultation with Dr. Pachel.
“It’s always necessary to have someone provide a thorough physical examination, but it doesn’t have to be me,” Dr. Pachel explains. In this case, he discussed the results of the primary care veterinarian’s physical exam, neurologic exam, and notes regarding the dog’s response to pain medication; he also read the behavior history and viewed the owner’s video clips.
From early on, Dr. Pachel suspected a medical cause for the aggression. “What stood out to me was the inconsistent relationship between the antecedents (things that happened around the dog prior to the aggression) and the behavior,” Dr. Pachel says.
“Seeing the variability and expression of those aggressive behaviors, and understanding that the dog has been in identical situations hundreds of times without eliciting any aggression – the most notable thing about the incidents were how inconsistent they were. That increased my level of suspicion that something internal, not external, was driving the incidents. The inconsistency also made me think about potential causes that have a waxing and waning, variable expression, such as hormonal issues or endocrine- related disorders.”
Dr. Pachel first suggested that the dog’s vet run a comprehensive thyroid profile (laboratory test). Dogs whose bodies produce too much or too little thyroid often experience changes in behavior and coping skills. However, the test results were normal.
Next, he considered endocrine conditions that could have an intermittent influence, impacting the dog’s ability to respond to mild provocations and stress. He suggested testing the dog for Addison’s disease – which may have appeared to the dog’s primary care vet as a stretch. “The dog had never had an Addisonian crisis (collapse, lethargy, dehydration), his electrolytes were normal – there were none of the hints in his bloodwork that would make you want to run an ACTH stim test (a test that demonstrates the capacity of the dog’s adrenal glands to produce cortisol),” describes Dr. Pachel. “It was the waxing and waning nature of the aberrant behavior and lack of response to other treatments that led me in that direction.”
While he may have thought the test was a shot in the dark, when the results came back, the dog’s primary care vet was happy to report that the picture was now clear: The dog had Addison’s disease, a deficiency of the hormones that regulate electrolytes, blood pressure, hydration, metabolism, and … stress responses! Addison’s patients require lifelong supplementation of those hormones, but thankfully, with treatment, the dog’s troubling behaviors stopped.
Is it just marketing?
It bears repeating: Anyone can call themselves a behaviorist. The term doesn’t guarantee that they are educated or experienced with complex behavior problems. When hiring a dog trainer, we recommend you choose a behavior professional who is certified by and/or a member of one of the organizations we list here: whole-dog-journal.com/training/find-the-best-trainer-for-you-and-your-dog.
Any ethical behavior professional will explore your dog’s behavior with you, help with behavior modification if they can, and refer you to a veterinary behaviorist if they realize your dog’s issues are beyond their experience and capabilities, or if their efforts to help are not successful.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
