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Best Vacuums for Dog Hair

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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1
The best vacuums for dog hair combine convenience, ease of use, and functionality into a handy package,
No doubt about it: Finding a vacuum that will pick up all your dog’s loose hair is nearly impossible, but we’ve found two we really like. Credit: Ivan Ozerov | Getty Images

Dogs are fantastic, but let’s face it: Managing dog hair can be a daunting task. This is especially true if you have multiple large, double-coated dogs in your household. And even if your dog doesn’t shed much, he still brings in dirt on his paws (though in my house, my husband’s boots provide the most dirt on the carpet). You need a reliable vacuum for dog hair just to keep up.

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How to Choose a Vacuum Cleaner for Dog Hair

Here are some features to look for when choosing a vacuum for your dog-friendly home.

  1. Powerful Suction: Controlling dust bunnies takes work, and you need a vacuum able to do the job. This is especially true if your home has carpeting that grabs onto dog hair. In general, upright vacuums tend to have the most suction. But modern cannister and cordless vacuums are getting stronger over time and may be sufficient if your home is mostly hard flooring or low-pile carpet.
  2. Beater Bar or Roller: A floorhead with a beater bar or roller will help to loosen and pick up dog hair. Look for a product that has anti-hair wrap or detangling features or is called a “pet hair attachment.” This will minimize the amount of dog hair that gets wrapped around the roller bar instead of going up the hose into the vacuum.

Nylon bristles tend to grab more hair than rubber wedges do. Even if your vacuum has detangling technology, it is still important to check the floorhead and roller bar on a regular basis. Freeing any tangled hair promptly will prevent knots from getting worse and keep your vacuum working properly. If you have multiple dogs, it’s a good idea to check this area after every use.

  1. Large Dustbin: The larger the dustbin capacity, the less often you must stop to empty the vacuum. If you only have one dog and vacuum daily, this might not make a huge difference, but if you have multiple dogs and vacuuming keeps getting pushed to tomorrow’s to-do list, a bigger dustbin is a must. In general, upright and cylinder vacuums tend to have larger dustbins than cordless stick vacuums.
  2. Simple Emptying Mechanism: A vacuum dustbin should be secure enough to keep debris contained but opening it should not be like cracking a safe. Be sure that the vacuum you are considering has a latch system that makes sense to you and that will be easy to maneuver. This is especially critical if you or a family member have limited strength or mobility in your hands.

The emptying mechanism should also minimize dust clouds that poof out upon opening. Bags eliminate this issue, but to use bags you will need to choose a vacuum that is set up for bags and then remember to buy bags on a regular basis.

Some cordless stick vacuums have eliminated this issue with auto-empty docks. When you place the vacuum back into its charging dock, the dustbin automatically empties into a larger chamber inside the dock. Depending on the model, the dock might have a bag or a larger dustbin that can then be emptied manually when filled.

  1. Easy to Clean: No matter how well-designed a vacuum is, there is going to be some hair and dirt that slips through junctions or gets stuck in the wrong spots. Filters and collection chambers should be easy to access for periodic cleaning, and ideally there should be ways to access long hoses to free up any clogs.
  2. Detail Tools: Dog hair gets everywhere, and the vacuum’s floorhead won’t reach everything. We recommend choosing a vacuum with a variety of tools and attachments so that you can tackle corners, creases, upholstery, and stairs with one machine.
  3. Filters to Control Allergens: A HEPA filter is a great way to reduce dust, dander, and allergens circulating in the air after you vacuum. This is especially helpful if a family member or friend who comes over regularly is allergic to dogs or has asthma or any other respiratory disorder. This goes for dogs and cats with respiratory illnesses, too.

Best Vacuums for Dog Hair

ProductDescriptionPriceWhere to Buy
Dreame R20This lightweight cordless vacuum has good power and performs well on stairs, carpeting, and hard floors. It is versatile with a variety of attachments and converts to a handheld vacuum.$200 to $450Dreametech.com
Amazon.com
Dyson Ball Animal 3This upright vacuum is a beast, but its heavy weight comes with excellent suction (even on deep carpets) and a large dustbin. It is bagless and includes a HEPA filter. Dyson also offers higher trim models of the Ball Animal that include additional features and attachments.$350 to$450; fancier models up to $660Dyson.com
Chewy.com
Bestbuy.com
Dyson V15 DetectThis cordless stick vacuum tackles hair on all surface types and has an Auto mode that adjusts the level of suction based on the job. It has multiple accessories for different tasks, as well as a HEPA filter.$850Dyson.com
Chewy.com
Amazon.com
Eureka Mighty MiteThis canister vacuum is lightweight and does a great job with pet hair on hard floors. Its floorhead does not have a roller, which means you trade lack of tangles for less effective suction on carpet. It uses a bag system, and a long hose.$90 to $110Eureka.com
Chewy.com
Staples.com
Kenmore Elite 31150 Pet Friendly Bagged UprightThis upright vacuum uses a bag system and is certified by the Asthma and Allergy Foundation. It is a bit heavy but has excellent suction and large capacity. It also has attachments that are great for getting hair off bedding and furniture.$300 to $350Kenmore.com
Amazon.com
Walmart.com
SEBO Airbelt D4 PremiumThis canister vacuum has power to spare and sucks up hair off hard surfaces and carpeting alike. Many users comment on how quiet it is while still having great suction. Its long hose and cord make it easy to use on stairs and in large spaces, and the floorhead has a foam bumper to protect furniture and walls. It uses a bag system with an indicator to tell you when it’s full and includes a HEPA filter.$1500Sebo.us
Bestvacuum.com
Shark PowerDetect CordlessThis cordless vacuum has great suction and can be purchased with an auto-empty dock to quickly and easily empty the dustbin. It has an Auto mode that adjusts the level of suction depending on the level of debris. It performs well on carpeting and hard floors and runs for up to 70 minutes on one charge.$450 to $600Sharkninja.com
Amazon.com
Bestbuy.com
Shark Stratos DuoClean PowerFins HairPro UprightThis upright vacuum has a features list as long as its name. It has the powerful suction you expect form a good upright, and the hose and dustbin can lift away from the floorhead to convert to a canister vac for hard-to-reach places. It also has a HEPA filter and self-cleaning brush roll to prevent tangles.$530Sharkninja.com
Amazon.com
Bestbuy.com

Our Favorite Vacuums for Dog Hair

Shark

I am quite fond of my Shark upright vacuum. “Sharky Shark” has been serving in the trenches with me for eight years, battling the hair from two dogs for the first couple years and then rising to the challenge of three dogs and a cat. While I am a very dedicated animal caretaker, my vacuum care skirts the line of benign neglect: I do what I need to to keep the vacuum running but sometimes put off maintenance tasks longer than I should. I’ve had a few close calls where I thought it had perished but leaving it to sit in the closet for a few days did the trick.

My vacuum is a Shark Rotator Pet Upright. It has good suction on medium pile carpet and hard flooring but struggles on shag carpet (don’t judge: I rent!). The large dustbin grabs a lot of hair and dirt and is easy to empty. It is an older model, so it has bristles on the roller that trap a bunch of hair, so I check that after finishing each room. I can easily access the different filters, which can be cleaned by shaking them out and then rinsing with clean water and letting them dry before use. Hair does tend to get stuck in the top section of the dustbin before the main compartment, which necessitates emptying the dustbin more frequently. Dirt and dust goes straight through to the primary dustbin. It also has a variety of tools, and I can detach the handle to reach tight or elevated areas.

Shark offers a wide variety of vacuum products, including upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums. Prices range from $100 to $1,200 depending on the model and features.

Dyson

Dyson has a dedicated following among dog lovers, and Dyson makes an appearance on just about every listicle or forum thread about vacuums. Their products are space-age works of art that get the job done too. Dyson’s cordless vacuums have incredible suction that can match many upright vacuums.

Dyson boasts a wide range of tools and accessories, including Dyson’s Hair Screw Tool to remove pet hair from just about any surface. Vacuum models include upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums. Prices range from to $300 to $1150 depending on the model and features.

Runners-Up for Dog Hair Vacuums

These companies have all proven their worth in homes and might have the right product for your vacuum needs.

Dreame offers cordless vacuums and robotic vacuums. Prices range from $200 to $2,000 depending on model and features.

Eureka offers upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, canister vacuums, and robotic vacuums for every budget. Prices range from $40 to $1,000 depending on model and features.

Kenmore offers upright vacuums, cordless vacuums, corded stick vacuums, canister vacuums, handheld vacuums, and robotic vacuums for every budget. Prices range from $100 to $450 depending on model and features.

SEBO offers upright vacuums and canister vacuums. Prices range from $650 to $1450 depending on model and features.

Bottom Line

While Shark and Dyson are our favorite choices, we have compiled other standout vacuums for dog hair in our chart. As with any major purchase, watch for sales and special offers to get a great vacuum at a great price.

Can Dogs Be Vegan?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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5
Vegan dog food is available, but is it good for your dog?
No one disputes that dogs like vegetables! They do. The question when choosing a vegan diet is whether it is nutritionally adequate to keep your dog health. Credit: Alexei Tm | Getty Images
Vegetarian and vegan dog food is a topic that generates curiosity, debate, and strong opinions among pet owners. Dogs are biologically classified as omnivores. This means that their digestive systems can handle a variety of foods, including plant-based ingredients.
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What Is Kennel Nose in Dogs?

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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1
Kennel nose occurs when a dog rubs their nose against a hard surface until it damages the skin.
Your best defense against kennel nose in dogs is to start when the dog’s a puppy, properly training so that he learns that a kennel, crate, or ex-pen is not a bad thing. Credit: Os Tartarouchos | Getty Images

Anyone who has had a dog who was stressed in their crate is sadly familiar with kennel nose in dogs. If you have not experienced this condition, that is wonderful, but you will want to better understand what is kennel nose in dogs in case you run into it.

What Is Kennel Nose?

This condition results from a dog rubbing their nose repeatedly against something, which often includes the crate/kennel. It can also be a result of rubbing their nose against other objects such as beds, bedding, fencing, or even while digging, but being kenneled is the No. 1 cause of kennel nose. A dog with kennel nose has a nose that is likely red and inflamed, possibly with scabbing, crusts, and even open wounds. The condition can vary in degrees of intensity from simple irritation to the point of bleeding and scabs that need first aid.

How Do You Treat Kennel Nose?

As far as kennel nose treatment goes, checking with your veterinarian is an important first option, especially if there are scabs and bleeding. You may want to gently cleanse the nose to prevent infection as well as applying a dog-safe antibacterial ointment. Your veterinarian can suggest an over-the-counter product or prescribe one.

If the nose is very irritated, you may need to consider an Elizabethan collar to prevent further damage. This will prevent further nose rubbing. But it will still require you to better determine the root cause of kennel nose in your dog so that you can prevent a repetition of such. Your dog will thank you for that.

Is Kennel Nose Due to Anxiety?

The root cause of kennel nose is anxiety of some sort. What caused the kennel nose will tell you how to prevent it but for actual crate concerns, you can easily prevent this from happening by teaching your dog that their crate or kennel is not a bad thing. If your dog is battling separation anxiety that causes him to rub against the crate, you should address that.

If your dog buries things with their nose situationally in specific contexts, then determine how you can help them relieve their anxiety about that situation. Do you have guest over? Is the normal routine disrupted? Are other household members, whether human or animal, being intrusive towards them? These are all important considerations to resolve the need to bury things with their nose.

Some dogs bury their belongings in their bed or bedding to such a degree that they end up with kennel nose. This type of behavior can be the result of a form of resource guarding that is less obvious as such. This type of resource guarding causes a dog to seem to feel overwhelmed at having certain items. So, they bury them to keep them safe. I have seen dogs do this with high-value items like bones or bully sticks, when they did not appear to feel safe enjoying them. Addressing this issue is a whole other article, however.

Observing your dog when you notice this type of nose burying behavior will help to identify the source of the issue. Identifying the cause will allow this condition to be better prevented.

Is Your Dog Bored?

If your dog is simply bored, then looking at their typical daily schedule with the goal of adding more enrichment should be the first order of business. A mentally enriched dog is a happier dog. Sniffing walks, problem-solving exercises, physical exercise, and even training games can add enrichment to their day and prevent boredom.

Alternatives to Rawhide

By
Mary Schwager
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1
Popular alternatives to rawhide include yak cheese
When it comes to dog chews, yak cheese sticks are a popular alternative to rawhide. Credit: Petra Richli | Getty Images

Weighing around 80 pounds, Michele McHugh’s Shepherd mix, Doodle, loved to chew.

“She enjoyed her toys and had an assortment of chew toys,” McHugh says. “The more edible type of chews were given as treats on special occasions to keep her entertained.”

But the Houston, Texas area dog mom wasn’t comfortable giving Doodle rawhide bones, so McHugh opted for rawhide alternatives.

“There are so many other choices out there besides rawhide,” McHugh says.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

In recent years, the demand for rawhide alternatives has grown. We found that many pet supply store shelves and online retailers are packed with products promoted as alternatives to rawhide. Good rawhide alternatives include:

 

Rawhide Concerns: Why Look for Rawhide Alternatives?

Made from dried animal skins, typically beef, rawhide is a popular product for dogs. There are a wide range of rawhide products available; some are made in the United States while others are imported from China, Mexico, and South American countries.

Many companies say their rawhides are digestible, safe, and natural. However, some dog owners and veterinarians opt for rawhide alternatives due to concerns about possible chemicals used to treat some rawhide products, potential bacterial contamination, and health and safety risks.

“I started seeing more problems in practice with dogs getting rawhides stuck in the back of their throat, causing choking,” says veterinarian Brian Collins with the Cornell Riney Canine Health Center. “Some dogs get them stuck in their GI tract, causing vomiting or creating obstructions.”

While any type of chew could potentially cause an issue—like a digestive problem or choking hazard—for your dog, Dr. Collins also worries about how rawhide and other chews may affect your dog’s teeth.

“I’ve seen dogs break off their canine teeth, chewing on rawhide, but other chews can contribute to these problems,” he says.

Since some dogs are hardcore chewers, picking the right product can be challenging. So how do you figure out what’s best for your dog?

Choosing the Right Dog Chew

Dog chews can help keep dogs busy, entertained, and mentally stimulated. For some pups, getting a dog chew is an exciting reward they look forward to.

Look for Rawhide Alternatives that are Flexible and Digestible

To satisfy your dog’s craving to chomp, Dr. Collins has a recommendation:

“My rule of thumb is that whatever your dog chews on should be something that is flexible, and you can indent with your fingernail, or you can break with your hands,” he says.

This helps reduce wear and tear on dogs’ teeth from gnawing on hard chews.

“I often find myself pointing out broken teeth, or a dog will come in with an acutely broken tooth,” Dr. Collins says. “It’s generally not a question of if, it’s a question of when. Treatment of a fractured tooth generally involves removing the tooth or performing a root canal procedure.”

On the flip side, when your dog gnaws away on a chew, it can help keep their teeth clean. The physical act of chewing helps remove food debris and tartar.

One place to look for recommendations is this list on The Veterinary Oral Health Council’s website (VOHC). An independent group within the American Veterinary Dental College, the VOHC reviews dental care products and awards qualifying items its Seal of Acceptance. Products are awarded the seal for meeting the organization’s teeth-friendly standards for dogs (and cats) and helping to prevent plaque and tartar buildup.

But having good choppers isn’t the only reason Dr. Collins recommends pliable products; digestibility is also a factor.

“You want to make sure that if dogs do swallow something, that it’s something that’s going to break down fairly easily in their stomach,” Dr. Collins says. “Generally, if it’s indentable, bendable, or breakable, it’s more likely to be safe.”

Pay Attention to Dog Chew Ingredients

Check the label on any chew you choose to make sure your dog isn’t allergic or sensitive to some of the ingredients.

Collagen chews for dogs are typically derived from cows, using an inner layer of skin that is softer than the layer used to make rawhide. Yak sticks are made from yak and cow milk and are dairy products. Some freeze-dried products are made from duck, chicken, lamb, venison, and other animals.

“Some of the chews have rice flour and glycerin, which may not be part of their normal diet,” Dr. Collins says. “If a dog tolerates the ingredients, then it’s OK to be given in moderation.”

Hard rubber chew toys like Kongs and GoughNuts are also an option for dogs who love to gnaw. Avoid anything that splinters or is made from inedible ingredients that break apart into pieces that your dog may consume.

When choosing a rawhide alternative, read the online reviews for any chew or treat you’re considering. Google the name of the product to see if it’s ever been the subject of lawsuits or recalls. It also helps to make sure the country of origin for the chew you choose is clearly stated on the packaging.

Common Sense Chew Precautions

When giving your dog any chew, you’ll want to keep an eye out for a few things:

  • Choose the appropriate chew for your dog’s chew style and size to avoid a choking hazard. Keep small chews away from big dogs and remove chews when they get small enough to swallow—which may happen fast with an enthusiastic chewer.
  • Always supervise your dog when they are chomping on any type of dog chew so you can intervene if there’s a problem.
  • When you give your dog a new type of chew, do a test run the first time. Let the dog have the chew for a limited amount of time and then see how their digestive system reacts over the next 24 to 48 hours.
  • If your dog is brachycephalic (for example, Pugs and English or French Bulldogs) and has a shorter snout, use caution with any type of chew, as a piece could break off and block their narrow airway.
  • Make sure your dog has access to plenty of water; chewing can make them thirsty.
  • If your dog experiences health issues after eating a chew, contact your veterinarian.

McHugh’s dog loved bully sticks, but she says her biggest concern was always making sure she watched Doodle when she had any type of chew.

“I made sure that she didn’t chew the bones down to a chokeable size or split them into a pointy piece that could harm her,” she says. “A lot of it has to do with the human as well. You don’t just give them these chews and walk away. You must have some responsibility as well.”

The Best Dog Dryers

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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1
The best dog dryers can speed up your dogs bathing and grooming.
They best blow dryer for your dog will depend on their size, coat type, and sensitivity to noise. Larger dogs with thicker coats will need a more powerful dryer. Credit: Jae Thomas

I once worked at a Malamute kennel where, in the summer, most of the dogs were bathed weekly. It wasn’t uncommon for me to bathe, blow dry, and brush up to six Malamutes in a day, especially on dog show weekends. Alaskan Malamutes have dense double coats and shed like you wouldn’t believe when it’s time for them to blow their thick, furry undercoats.

If I wanted to go home at a reasonable hour, a powerful dog blow dryer was a must. When being blow dried, dogs should be dried completely down to the skin without any dampness being left behind. Dampness leaves room for hot spots, bacteria, and skin irritation.

While I know my way around a powerful, high-velocity dog blow dryer, I realize that an expensive two-motor dog dryer isn’t a must-have for every pet parent and the best dog dryer for you is largely dependent on your dog’s size and coat type.

As a Rough Collie owner, I personally use a K-9 Fluffer Dryer with variable speeds. It’s strong enough to get my Collie dry in a reasonable amount of time, but isn’t bulky, heavy, or as loud as the stronger double-barrel dog dryers.

Pet parents with shorter-coated or smaller dogs can likely get away with using a much less powerful dryer for their pups.

Here’s what to look for when shopping for a dog blow dryer:

Traits We Want in the Best Dog Dryers

Power: The dog breed, size, type of coat, and spay/neuter status of your dog will determine how strong of a dog dryer you require. Single-coated breeds can be dried quickly with non-powerful dryers, while large, double-coated dogs will require more power to dry completely. Spayed or neutered dogs with long or double coats may also benefit from a stronger dryer, since they can be more prone to tangling and matting due to altered coat texture.

Settings: The settings you need on a dog blow dryer will also depend on your dog. If your dog is noise sensitive, a variable speed blow dryer will be easier to desensitize them to. If you plan on using a dryer to dry your dog’s face and ears, a variable speed dryer also allows you to dry these more sensitive parts of the body with a lower speed.

Contrary to popular belief, you do not need a specific “heated” dog dryer in most cases. Some dog blow dryers rely on air that’s warmed while passing through the motor, while others have no heating element, instead only using room temperature air and air force that’s able to blow water off your dog’s hair, rather than warming it up until it evaporates. Dog dryers also often have protection against overheating, so you don’t burn or irritate your dog’s skin.

Ease of cleaning/replacing filters: Cleaning and replacing the filter on your dog dryer will keep the motor going for longer. We evaluated the ease of cleaning and changing the filters on each of these dryers.

Safety and performance: I once used a dog blow dryer that heated up so much it sparked within 10 minutes of turning it on. I then purchased a second dryer of the same make/model and it did the exact same thing. Dog blow dryers should have strong, safe motors that can not only dry your pet, but don’t heat up or shut off from being overworked.

Attachments: Certain attachments are helpful for certain coats and certain uses. A water peeler attachment is particularly useful to use when your dog is fresh out of the bath, to get rid of excess water sitting on top of the coat. A round tip is good for targeting mats and tangles on longer coats.

The Best Dog Dryers

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceNotes
Electric Cleaner Company K-9 Fluffer Dryer$379Often the top brand choice for dog show folks and double-coated dog owners, K-9 Fluffer dryers are known for being a lasting investment with lots of power behind them.
SHELANDY Dog Grooming Dryer$89For small and medium-sized dogs (or large dogs with thinner coats), the Shelandy dryer is a budget-friendly option that offers variable speeds and a heating element, which is especially helpful for small dogs who are prone to getting cold during bathtime.
Flying Pig Double$349The Flying Pig Double Grooming Dryer is incredibly powerful and best suited for large breed dogs and dogs with thick double coats.
MetroVac Air Force Commander Two-Speed Pet Dryer$300At such a similar price range to the K-9 Fluffer Dryer (and the slightly cheaper two-speed K-9 dryer), I find that the MetroVac Air Force Commander Dryers generally lack power in comparison.

Best Dog Blow Dryer: Electric Cleaner Company K-9 Fluffer Dryer

The K-9 fluffer dryer is our favorite dog dryer.
They best blow dryer for your dog will depend on their size, coat type, and sensitivity to noise. Larger dogs with thicker coats will need a more powerful dryer. Credit: Jae Thomas

A few of my dog show friends have had their Electric Cleaner Company dog dryers for 10+ years and they’re still going strong. It’s a popular brand amongst show folks because it’s powerful, multi-purpose with multiple speeds, but still small and easy to move around and transport. I’ve had my Electric Cleaner Company K-9 Fluffer Dryer for two years and wouldn’t trade it for another dryer.

This dryer completely dries my Rough Collie down to the skin in about 40 minutes on high. Smaller dogs would be done quicker, while bigger dogs may take longer. I tend to use the brand’s water peeler attachment most often, which unfortunately doesn’t come included and needs to be bought separately.

The variable speeds on this dryer are great for getting dogs used to the sound and sensation of blow drying since you can start them with a quieter low speed setting. It’s also useful for blow drying your dog’s face, head, and ears without irritating them. This dryer has the largest variation of power levels of the options we tested.

Another big perk of this dryer is that it can be plugged into a standard 15-amp outlet without blowing fuses. Some high-velocity dog driers require 20-amp power.

If you don’t care about having variable speeds, this brand also sells a cheaper two-speed version. They also sell multiple more powerful versions for very large, thick-coated dogs (or for groomers who dry a lot of dogs regularly).

Best Budget Dog Dryer: SHELANDY Dog Grooming Dryer

The shelandy dog dryer is a good budget option for dog grooming.
If you’re looking for a budget option, the SHELANDY Dog Grooming Dryer does a good job and offers a warm-air setting that works well for dogs who get cold after bathtime. Credit: Jae Thomas

For dog owners on a budget, the SHELANDY Dog Grooming Dryer is one of the best options you can get for under $100. With a retail price of $89, this option is often on sale at Chewy for less.

It’s lightweight (compared to the K-9 Fluffer dryer) and features variable power settings. The lowest and highest power settings on the K-9 Fluffer are both lower and higher respectively than the Shelandy—the Shelandy’s power settings sit in the middle of the K-9 Fluffer’s.

Some user reviews say that this dryer is overly loud, but when we tested decibels on each dryer, the Shelandy sat right in the middle of the K-9 Fluffer sound range as well, which matches up with the power range that it has. The lowest setting is not as quiet as the K-9 Fluffer, but the loudest setting isn’t as loud as the K-9 Fluffer either.

A great feature the Shelandy dryer has is an integrated heating element. This means that it can blow warm air instead of just room temperature air like other options on this list. Though it’s not always recommended to blow dry dogs with hot or warm air, it can be helpful for small dogs or dogs with low body fat who tend to get cold during bathtime.

Best High Velocity Dog Dryer: Flying Pig Double Grooming Dryer

Flying pig offers one of the most powerful dog dryers reviewed.
The Flying Pig Double Grooming Dryer is a great choice for big dogs with thick coats. However, it may be overpowered for small dogs or dogs with shorter hair. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you have a large or giant breed, or a dog with a thick double coat, the Flying Pig Double Grooming Dryer is the way to go. It’s one of the most cost-effective double motor dog dryers on the market, while still offering high enough power to get heavy-coated dogs dry in a reasonable amount of time.

During testing, this dryer got my Collie dry in a little more than half the time of my normal dryer. It will cut your drying time in half in comparison to a single motor dryer, especially if you have a double coated breed (or a very large dog). It’s fairly loud, even on the lowest setting, so it’s best for dogs who are already used to being dried with an electric dryer.

The Flying Pig Double has variable power settings, and despite its strong power, can be used with a normal 120V outlet—as long as there’s nothing else running on the same circuit at the same time. Some other double motor dryers on the market have higher power requirements to function.

This dryer comes with a round nozzle, a flat nozzle, and a wide flat nozzle, and while they’re a little bit thicker/bulkier to hold than other options on this list, they work great for getting your dog dry down to the skin.

The only downsides of this dryer are that it’s quite big and heavy and it will be overkill for dogs who don’t need it. Just because it’s slightly less expensive than a less powerful dryer doesn’t mean that it’s the best pick for all dogs. This dryer is likely too strong for small breeds and sensitive dogs who need gentler settings but it a good pick for Malamutes, Huskies, Collies, Samoyeds, and other bigger, thick-coated dogs.

Something to note is that we had trouble with our first tester unit of this dryer: One of the motors stopped working on the second use. The first use was a short 5-minute test to check for power and settings without a dog. The second use was to actually blow dry a dog with it, and one of the motors stopped working within the first ten minutes of use on medium high power.

However, the Flying Pig customer service was speedy in sending a replacement and the replacement unit had no issues. It easily dried my Collie in about 25 minutes.

Other Dog Blow Dryers We Tested

MetroVac Air Force Commander Two-Speed Pet Dryer

The Metrovac dog dry worked, but was a little anemic.
The MetroVac Air Force Commander Two-Speed Pet Dryer works reasonably well on short-coated dogs but lacks power compared to similar models. Credit: Jae Thomas

The MetroVac Air Force Commander Two-Speed Pet Dryer is a fairly lightweight and portable option, similar in size to the Electric Cleaner Company K-9 Fluffer Dryer. This dryer only has two speeds: low and high. It’s slightly cheaper than the K-9 Fluffer, but the power is lacking in comparison. My local dog wash uses MetroVac Air Force Commander Two Speed models and they typically take about an hour to fully dry my Collie while my K-9 Fluffer takes about 40 minutes. This isn’t a bad dryer for smaller dogs or thinner coats but if you have a double coated dog, spend a little extra for the K-9 Fluffer if you’re choosing between the two options.

How to Firm Up Dog Poop

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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3
Knowing how to firm up dog poop can spare a dog owner the mess and hassle of cleaning up loose stool.
Picking up watery or loose poop can be a challenge, even your dog may notice it’s taking longer than usual! Credit: Humonia | Getty Images

I honestly don’t know any dog parents who are not obsessed with the quality of their beloved dog’s poop. It only takes a few loose, watery stools to set most of us on the path to a canine Google medical degree with all the research that then takes place to analyze what you are seeing. Right?

The short answer to the question on how to firm up dog poop quickly is to feed quality protein sources with minimal carbohydrate content, easy access to fresh water, and keeping things on hand like the probiotic Purina FortiFlora and canned pumpkin. We explain how these works and what else to try in detail below.

What Is Good Poop?

Ideally your dog’s poop should be various shades of medium to dark brown, but consistency also matters, which is where firming things up comes into play.

The perfect dog poop consistency is like Play-Doh. Not rock hard but not soft. It should pretty much hold its shape when you scoop it up (because you are cleaning up after your dog, like a good dog parent does, right?). Of course, consistency will often change by the day but by only small amounts.

The firmness of your dog’s regular stools is partially determined by their regular diet, just like your own.

Diet Matters To Firming Up Poop

Most dog parents feed dry kibble. The higher the carbohydrate count in such, the larger and less firm the stools. The better the quality of the kibble the better the chance of not only firmer poops, but less volume of poop overall. (Look at the ingredients list for real meat protein being high on the list of ingredients.) Less poop means that your dog’s body is using more of the nutrients instead of getting rid of excess bulk. Understanding this will give you a good foundation for firmer poops.

Those who feed a raw diet also emphasize the reduced quantity of poop with this diet as well as ideal firmness. I feed one of my dogs a raw diet and can attest that this is true, at least in my own giant-breed dog’s case.

I feed my other dog a cooked diet (they each get a dab of the other’s), with an appropriate level of a calcium supplement added. This ensures that this dog has the best possible poops for her diet.

How to Fight Canine Loose Stools

When there is a loose-stool issue that does not present as an emergency, my own go-to for fixing this is Purina FortiFlora. I find this probiotic to be all that is necessary in most cases. I will usually also eliminate any regular addition in my dog’s diet that may add to looser stools until the issue has resolved itself, such as probiotic-enhanced cottage cheese and/or yogurt. While healthy in moderation, when digestive issues are happening, these can add to them.

My own dog’s diet includes a variety of meats varying by the meal, so I will take note of which meals they had immediately preceding a loose-stool incident and skip that protein for a few days.

I also keep canned pureed pumpkin on hand. This fiber-filled miracle firms up dog poop quickly and helps with constipation. Basically, it’s a stool stabilizer. It’s not a bad idea to add to a small amount to dog’s diet daily as a side dish if you have a dog who likes pumpkin. Some dogs like it just mixed it into the dog’s food.

It’s important to always provide fresh water for your dog but even more so when their stools are loose, especially if loose stools progress to diarrhea.

When Dog Diarrhea Needs a Vet’s Attention

Bloody diarrhea, mucous, vomiting, and stomach pain are all signs that your dog needs to see the veterinarian. You usually can try Pepto Bismol. However, if you don’t see improvement in 24 to 48 hours, you need veterinary help. Watery stools can quickly dehydrate your dog. Puppies are especially vulnerable. Your dog may be battling parasites, bowel disease, bacterial infection, food allergies, colitis, or another serious illness that needs veterinary treatment.

How Fast Can Dogs Run?

By
Joan Merriam
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How fast can dogs run? The answer depends on breed, fitness, and individual talent.
hen it comes to how fast dogs can run, not all breeds are created equal. Much like cheetahs, sighthounds are built to move quickly. Credit: Himagine | Getty Images

When you think of the fastest animals on earth, what do you think of? The cheetah? Gazelle? Peregrine falcon? Maybe a Thoroughbred racehorse? But have you ever thought about including the dog in that collection?

When it comes to how fast dogs can run, one particular breed stands out. Greyhounds have been known to run at an astonishing 45 miles per hour—and it’s not just top speed: many Greyhounds can hit over 43 miles per hour in just four-tenths of a mile, reaching a maximum acceleration of 9 miles per hour in approximately two seconds.

In terms of speed, while the cheetah—considered the fastest land animal—can reach a jaw-dropping top 65 miles per hour, they can only maintain that incredible velocity for very short distances, between 200 and 300 yards. The Greyhound, however, can maintain speeds in excess of 35 miles per hour for distances as great as seven miles.

Since Greyhounds have similar body mass, as well as form, shape, and structure to cheetahs, why can’t they run at similar speeds? Research provides the answer: first, the cheetah’s longer limbs and back allow it to achieve a lengthier stride than the Greyhound.  Secondly, the cheetah can achieve faster top speeds because it has the ability to significantly reduce its swing times—the duration a paw spends off the ground during the running cycle—as it speeds up compared to the Greyhound.

The Role of Muscle Fibers in How Fast Dogs (and Other Animals) Run

Both dogs and cheetahs (much as with human elite runners) are equipped with an abundance of what are called fast-twitch fibers: specialized muscle fibers that support rapid, powerful muscle contractions designed for short bursts of activity such as sprinting. On average, Greyhounds have more of these fast-twitch fibers than any other dog breed.

We now know that animals (including humans) who exhibit both speed and power have greater proportion of fast-twitch fibers, while those with exceptional endurance possess a greater number of slow-twitch fibers. Greyhounds typically have fewer than 20 percent slow-twitch fibers, compared to Dachshunds, bred for endurance, who average more than double that amount.

All of us in the animal kingdom face the same issue: being a speed demon on the ground tends to make us unsuited for endurance, and having considerably more endurance is usually at odds with high-speed sprinting. A great example is dogs bred to pull sleds, a task which takes remarkable stamina over prolonged periods: dogs competing in the Iditarod can pull a sled for 6–8 hours a day at speeds of around 10 miles per hour.

How Fast Can Sighthounds Run?

As suggested above, certain dog breeds are built for speed. The fastest overall are the sighthounds, who run with their heads up and their eyes fixed ahead rather than nose to or near the ground like most other breeds. Their aerodynamic bodies make higher speeds possible: they are slightly built, lightweight, with long, well-angled hindlegs. Sighthounds typically have minimal body fat, well-defined muscles, and deep chests, which provide more room for their lungs and large hearts.

There are around 28 recognized sighthound breeds, with variations depending on kennel club recognition. Here are some of the fastest dogs in the sighthound category:

Greyhound—45 miles per hour: The Greyhound is considered the fastest dog breed, known not just for how fast it can run but for its amazingly rapid acceleration. While the Greyhound’s precise origin is uncertain, graves in Mesopotamia containing its bones date back to 5000 BCE.

Saluki—42 miles per hour: Named after the Arabian city of Salu, the Saluki is the world’s second-fastest dog breed. An ancient Egyptian breed dating back to 7000 BCE, Salukis were used by nomadic desert tribes to hunt game such as gazelles. Like the Greyhound, they are known as exceptional sprinters who can also maintain speed over long distances.

Afghan Hound—over 40 miles per hour: The Afghan Hound’s long, powerful legs and flexible spine are keys to their speed on uneven terrain. Originating in the mountainous regions of Afghanistan, the Afghan Hound was bred to hunt large prey such as deer and leopards.

Ibizan Hound—40 miles per hour: The Ibizan Hound is named for the Spanish island of Ibiza and was a hunting companion to Egyptian pharaohs before being brought to the island by Phoenician traders. Unusual for sighthounds, this breed also utilizes hearing, sight, and scent in the hunt. The Ibizan Hound has the peculiar ability to jump six feet into the air from a standstill.

Irish Wolfhound—40 miles per hour: With a size that is rare among sighthounds, the Irish Wolfhound is one of the largest of all breeds of dog, often topping the scale between 120 and 180 pounds. This breed was bred for its ability to kill big game; and while the Wolfhound has a very fast top speed, it can only maintain it in sprints, not long distances.

Borzoi—36 miles per hour: Also known as a Russian Wolfhound (its name translates to “fast”), this tall, graceful sighthound tends to excel as a sprinter. Originating in Russia, the Borzoi can reach high speeds very rapidly, which made the breed ideal for hunting wolves and other fast-moving prey.

Pharaoh Hound—35 miles per hour: The Pharoah Hound, the national dog of Malta, has been found in records dating back to 3000 BCE. Like the Ibizan Hound, the Pharoh Hound is distinctive because the breed often uses its keen nose and hearing in addition to its exceptional sight.

Scottish Deerhound—35 miles per hour: Believed to predate recorded history, the Scottish Deerhound came by its name for being remarkable hunters of deer. While they are not racers, many believe that in their natural habitat, the Deerhound is faster than other sighthounds.

Basenji—30 to 35 miles per hour: Known as a basal breed—one with DNA that predates modern breeds—the Basenji is probably one of the oldest domesticated breeds of dog. A sighthound from West Africa, Basenjis are known for being “barkless”—although they do vocalize with yodels and howls.

Whippet—35 miles per hour: The Whippet is among the smallest sighthounds, but it makes up for that pint-size stature with exceptional speed; in fact, Whippets have been clocked running 200 yards in less than 12 seconds. Resembling a small Greyhound, the breed traces its origins to 1700s England.

Other Fast Dogs

Sighthounds aren’t the only dog breeds that can fly like the wind. Vizslas, originally bred in Hungary for hunting and retrieving game, can reach a top speed of 40 miles per hour, surpassing some sighthounds. Widely known as guard and search-and-rescue dogs, German Shepherds may not be racers but many can run up to 39 miles per hour, with very explosive speeds.

Dalmatians can also be rapid runners, hitting speeds of 37 miles per hour. Genetically, they’re grouped among retrievers, but Dalmatians don’t fit in with any established modern breeds, so their existence is somewhat of a mystery. Originally bred as herding dogs in Scotland and England, Border Collies—deemed by some to be the world’s smartest dog breed—have been clocked at speeds up to 30 miles per hour.

Even the diminutive Jack Russell Terrier, originally developed in England during the mid-1800s to in fox hunting, can reach speeds up to 25 mph in short bursts.

So, the next time you watch your own dog do the zoomies, remember that he’s not alone: some dogs are natural-born, everyday “zoomers”!

Can Ascites in Dogs Be Cured?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Ascites in dogs is a buildup of fluid in your dog's abdomen indicating another problem.
This dog is fat, as judged by the rolls of fat on his topline and his overall look. A dog with ascites will usually have an abdomen that looks distended compared to the rest of his body. Credit: Ashley Cooper | Getty Images

Pure fluid buildup in your dog’s abdomen is called “ascites.” The symptoms of ascites in dogs include vomiting, diarrhea, distended abdomen, difficulty breathing, pain if palpated, restlessness, and an inability to settle due to discomfort.

Your dog may appear lethargic or weak. Specific symptoms can also be evident due to the underlying problem, such as increased drinking with kidney failure or coughing and weakness from heart failure. Many dogs will become reluctant to eat and will lose weight, although the scale may say the same number of pounds or even higher due to the retained fluid.

Emergency Note for Ascites: If you notice your dog’s abdomen appears swollen, a veterinary appointment is the way to go. If you suspect bloat (see below), it is an emergency. If your dog is having trouble breathing, is suddenly weak, and/or has pale gums as well as a distended abdomen, that is also an emergency.

Is Ascites in Dogs Serious?

A buildup of belly fluid in your dog is a symptom of a serious condition, potentially organ failure.

Protein loss via the intestines (protein losing enteropathy) or the kidneys (protein losing nephropathy) are two disease conditions that may cause ascites. Decreased albumin due to liver damage may also contribute.

Trauma is another possible cause of ascites with blood from a ruptured spleen or urine due to damage to the bladder. With prompt surgical attention, the injuries can be repaired.

Cancer causes include hemangiosarcoma with bleeding from the spleen or liver or rupture of a gastric tumor, causing peritonitis with inflammatory and infectious fluids accumulating. Certain toxins, such as rat poison, may lead to bloody ascites secondary to clotting problems.

Ascites vs. Belly Fat in Your Dog

True ascites tends to be gradual. You may miss it initially as the change slowly progresses.

An overweight dog with a distended abdomen could have fat accumulation or possibly a loss of abdominal muscle tone as is seen in dogs with Cushing’s disease. In both cases, the distension is gradual. The abdomen feels firm but is not usually painful. This happens gradually.

Ascites vs. Bloat in Your Dog

If your dog is suffering from bloat—an extremely dangerous condition where the dog’s stomach fills with gas and can twist upon itself—he will be in obvious distress. Intense pain, pale gums, a rapid onset of swelling, and usually unproductive retching will be noted. This is an immediate medical emergency: Head for the nearest clinic, calling ahead, to let them know you are coming with a bloat case.

Diagnosing the Cause of Ascites in Dogs

The diagnosis will start with a complete physical examination and a thorough history. If your veterinarian suspects ascites due to your dog’s swollen belly, the next steps will be cytology by collecting a fluid sample to examine and imaging studies such as X-rays and/or an ultrasound. (When doing imaging, a large amount of fluid may obscure everything in the abdomen, or you may see the abdominal organs all pushed to one area.)

Fluid evaluation can help. Your veterinarian will look for bacteria, white blood cells that fight infection, red blood cells, or abnormal cells such as cancer cells shed off from a neoplasm. The protein level in the fluid will also be determined.

When aspirated, the fluid is generally one of two types:

  • An exudate, which is often cloudy when aspirated and may have cells and bacteria indicating infection, malignant cells from cancer, or simply lots of protein from inflammation.
  • Or transudative fluid, usually from a heart or liver problem and tends to be lower in protein. It is often clear.

Depending on what is seen in the fluid and imaging, a complete blood panel is an excellent next step. The bloodwork can tell you if the liver or kidneys are involved. An electrocardiogram (EKG) or echocardiogram (ultrasound) may be recommended to evaluate the heart.

Treatment of Ascites in Dogs Starts with Relief

Treatment often starts with draining off fluid (abdominocentesis). The fastest way to provide relief, especially with a large amount of ascites, is to place a needle through the abdominal wall so fluid can run out. If the fluid has a high level of protein, drainage needs to be monitored to maintain homeostasis. If bacteria or fungal elements are seen in the withdrawn fluid, antibiotics or antifungals may be dispensed.

For dogs with chronic ascites, regularly scheduled abdominocentesis may provide good quality of life. This can usually be done without sedation.

A diuretic, such as furosemide (Lasix) is often used after initial care to draw fluid out of the body. This class of drugs can also help underlying kidney or heart problems.

If liver, kidney, or heart problems have been identified, your veterinarian will start therapy aimed at those primary conditions. Resolving them should clear up the excess belly fluid and prevent future recurrence.

Treating Ascites in Dogs

Treatment may include diet changes, supplements, and medications, sometimes a “cocktail” of multiple drugs for the best results. Don’t add supplements on your own without consulting with your veterinarian. Drug interactions could seriously complicate your dog’s recovery.

If trauma is underneath the fluid buildup, surgery is often curative. Your dog can afford to lose his spleen and even a lobe or two of his liver if those have ruptured and are filling the abdomen with free blood. Urine repairs can also be done.

Surgery may also be done if your dog has infectious or inflammatory ascites to help flush and clean out the peritoneal tissues. Those fluids, and urine, can be irritating to delicate abdominal lining tissues.

If cancer is underlying the ascites, the prognosis is generally grave. A ruptured tumor will have metastasized (spread) through the abdomen. Radiation, immunotherapy, and chemotherapy are all potential treatments. While these treatments may not be able to bring about a cure, your dog may gain some quality time.

Managing Ascites in Dogs

Your veterinarian may recommend changes in your dog’s exercise regimen, dropping back to moderate exercise like walks as opposed to running and jumping. Massage techniques and physical therapy may also help to keep your dog comfortable. Acupuncture may help heal some disease conditions that cause ascites or at least provide comfort.

Signs, Symptoms, and Treatment for Colitis in Dogs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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Colitis in dogs can have many different causes ranging from stress to a change in diet.
.Abrupt dietary changes, like getting into the garbage, can cause colitis to develop in your dog. Credit: Getty Images

Colitis in dogs refers to inflammation of the colon, or large intestine. Colitis is a common cause of loose stool, diarrhea, or stool that contains mucus or streaks of blood. The condition can be acute, meaning it has a sudden onset and is short lasting, or chronic, lasting longer than two to three weeks. While colitis can occur in breed, sex, or age, certain breeds, such as German Shepherds and French Bulldogs, may be more predisposed to conditions that can result in chronic forms of colitis.

What Causes Colitis in Dogs?

Colitis can be triggered by several factors. One of the most frequent causes is dietary indiscretion, such as getting into the garbage, eating spoiled food, or non-food items that irritate the digestive tract. Abrupt diet changes, food allergies, and sensitivities to certain proteins or additives can also inflame the colon. Infectious agents, such as bacteria, intestinal worms, and protozoa are additional culprits.

Chronic colitis may stem from underlying inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), immune system dysfunction, or secondary conditions such as pancreatitis.

Can Stress Cause Colitis in Dogs?

Stress-related colitis is another common event for dogs, which is often triggered by boarding, travel, or major household changes.

What Are the Signs of Colitis in Dogs?

The hallmark sign of colitis is frequent, urgent defecation of small volumes of stool that are soft to liquid, often containing mucus or fresh red blood. Dogs may strain during bowel movements, sometimes only passing small amounts at a time. Other signs include flatulence, abdominal discomfort, and increased frequency of bathroom trips. Despite these gastrointestinal signs, most dogs with colitis maintain a normal appetite and energy level, unless the condition becomes severe or prolonged.

How Does a Vet Diagnose Colitis?

Your veterinarian can typically diagnose colitis based on clinical signs, medical history, and by running a fecal examination to rule out parasites or bacterial overgrowths. In chronic or recurrent cases, further testing may be necessary to determine whether IBD or another problem is present and contributing to the issues.

How Is Colitis in Dogs Treated?

The treatment of colitis depends on the underlying cause. In many acute cases, colitis resolves on its own within a few days with supportive care. Feeding a sensitive stomach diet during this time is recommended to help take some stress off the digestive system while it heals.

What Should I Feed a Dog with Colitis?

I prefer a wet food diet to help replenish some of the fluid that can be lost with frequent diarrhea or loose stools. Adding water or a sodium-free broth can also help keep your pup hydrated while they heal. If bacteria or parasites are detected during fecal examination, your vet will prescribe the appropriate antibiotics or antiparasitic medications.

Probiotics and fiber supplements, such as psyllium husk powder, can help balance the microbiome and improve stool consistency. I always bring psyllium husk powder with me when I travel with the dogs for shows and really like the stick packs of Konsyl Psyllium Fiber for their convenience and ease of use.

My Dog’s Colitis is Persistent

For chronic colitis, treatment may involve anti-inflammatory medications, prescription hydrolyzed-protein diets, or immune-modulating medications. Managing stress, maintaining a consistent diet, and avoiding known dietary triggers are also key to minimizing the number of flare-ups.

Most cases of acute colitis respond quickly to treatment and clear up within a few days. Chronic colitis may require long-term dietary management and periodic veterinary monitoring but can often be controlled successfully.

The best prevention includes avoiding sudden diet changes, not allowing access to table scraps, garbage cans, or compost piles, and using regular deworming and parasite control programs. With attentive care and veterinary support, most dogs will make a quick and full recovery and return to their normal, healthy lives!

Can You Spay a Dog in Heat?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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You can spay a dog in heat, but it does carry risk of complication and slowed recovery time.
You can spay a dog while she’s in heat, but the surgery may cost more and the recovery time may be longer. Credit: Scott Heaney | Getty Images

It is possible to spay a female dog in heat, but most veterinarians recommend waiting until your dog is between heat cycles. Spaying during a heat cycle is more involved, meaning increased anesthesia time, possibly a slower recovery after surgery, and often a higher cost for the spay surgery. Your dog is also more likely to experience dramatic mood swings and behavior changes during the recovery period.

My Dog Is in Heat Now and Bleeding

While it’s no fun to have a dog in heat, it’s not an emergency and not impossible to manage. You can discuss the risks of in-heat surgery with your veterinarian, but chances are the recommendation will be to wait. What should you do? The choice is yours, but you can carefully handle a dog in heat with proper management and the use of doggie panties. A dog’s first heat cycle may occur between 4 and 6 months of age. Once she’s through that first heat, you can schedule the spay surgery for a couple months out. Dogs generally go in heat twice a year.

How Risky Is it to Spay a Dog in Heat?

While in estrus (heat), the dog’s reproductive organs are swollen, and additional hormones are circulating through her body. All these changes make the female dog receptive to males and prepare her body for pregnancy.

Unfortunately, the swollen in-heat uterus and ovaries have a lot more blood traveling through them and can be more fragile. This makes the veterinarian’s job more difficult when trying to perform spay surgery. The surgeon must go carefully, avoiding tearing delicate tissues and addressing excess bleeding as it occurs. These factors make the surgery take longer, which in turn leads to a higher bill.

The Spay Procedure
The medical term for a spay is ovariohysterectomy, or removal of the uterus and ovaries. It’s a major procedure.  The veterinarian makes an incision into the abdomen and extracts the uterus and ovaries. Once the surgeon is confident that there is no bleeding in the abdomen, the incision is closed with sutures. Spay incisions typically heal in 10 to 14 days. During that time, you will need to prevent your dog from licking or chewing her incision and limit her activity. After this initial healing period, the skin and tissues will continue to get stronger over the next several months.

What Does an In-Heat Spay Do to My Dog?

Spaying a dog in heat puts your dog on a hormonal rollercoaster. She goes from maximum reproductive hormones to very little in a short time. This can cause moodiness, clinginess, and some increased anxiety or irritability for several weeks. These behavioral changes generally level out over time.

Remember that removing the sex organs also removes hormones. Estrogen and progesterone contribute to a female dog’s confidence, mood, appetite, and how she handles stress. Most female dogs retain their base personality traits after being spayed, but you may see changes in your dog’s confidence or energy level. Rarely, female dogs will become more aggressive toward other dogs after being spayed.

If the spay is done early, your dog may experience health issues later in life, too, especially in larger dogs. These include orthopedic problems, urinary incontinence, and cancer risks. The best age to spay your dog is usually advised based upon your dog’s adult size. Some research indicates large dogs shouldn’t be spayed at an early age.

When Is the Best Time to Spay a Dog?

Ideally, plan to spay your dog between heat cycles. Talk to your veterinarian about the best timing for your dog, be that before her first heat or when she has fully matured and gone through a few cycles. Scheduling the spay for two to three months after your dog has come in heat generally works out well.

Situations where it might be necessary to spay your dog while she is in heat include if she has a pyometra (infected uterus), it is difficult for you to reschedule her procedure, or if there are concerns about an unplanned pregnancy. If you find yourself in one of these situations, remember to be patient with your dog during the first few weeks of recovery.

The Best Slow Feeder Dog Bowls

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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The best slow feeder dog bowls offer safety and easy cleaning.
Safety, design, and ease of cleaning are all important qualities when looking for a slow feeder bowl for your dog. Credit: Jae Thomas

If your dog gobbles down their food in 10 seconds, they may benefit from a slow feeder dog bowl. The best slow feeder dog bowls can extend your dog’s mealtime, offer engaging enrichment, improve digestion, reduce regurgitation associated with eating too quickly, and may also help reduce the risk of bloat.

Traits We Want in the Best Slow Feeder Dog Bowls

Size options: The best dog slow feeders have multiple size options for dogs of different sizes.

Safety and design: Slow feeder bowls should be made from food-safe materials and be non-skid so dogs can’t push them around or tip them over while eating (with the exception of wobble-specific puzzle bowls). The design should be challenging enough to slow your dog down during mealtimes.

Ease of cleaning: While dog slow feeder bowls should have challenging, detailed designs, bowls with very small compartments or tiny details are difficult to clean. Ideally, a dog slow feeder bowl should be dishwasher safe for easy cleaning, since washing your dog’s food bowl after every meal is recommended.

Other things to consider: If you have a brachycephalic, or flat faced breed, like a Pug, French Bulldog, or Pekinese, note that some of the slow feeders on the market will likely be too deep for them and may cause frustration. Opting for a shallower slow feeder bowl, a lick mat, or a snuffle mat may be a better option for these breeds.

The Best Slow Feeder Dog Bowls

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceNotes
Outward Hound Non-Skid Slow Feeder Dog Bowl$8.50-$15This Outward Hound bowl is one of my longtime favorites. It’s easy to fill, easy to wash, and doesn’t move around while dogs eat from it. It’s not the most challenging bowl, but it’s a good choice for dogs who don’t eat at the speed of light.
Trot Puzzle Bowl$33-$56If you prefer stainless steel to plastic or other materials, opt for the Trot Puzzle Bowl. This nifty stainless steel option has a magnet on the bottom that connects to the brand’s magnetic placemats to keep it in place.
SodaPup Great Outdoors Enrichment Bowl$22For dogs who are at risk of bloat (or who just eat way too quickly), this SodaPup bowl is a challenge that’s sure to slow them down.
Lickimat Wobble Slow Feeder Bowl$17If your pup only eats wet food, this Lickimat wobble bowl is an engaging way to feed canned or softened food. Put it in the freezer for an extra challenge.
Sodpup Honeycomb Slow Feeder Dog Bowl$22The SodaPup Honeycomb bowl is a good option for keeping track of portions, different foods, and supplements, since it’s divided into multiple equal sections. However, it’s not as challenging as some of the other bowls.

Best Slow Feeder Dog Bowl: Outward Hound Non-Skid Slow Feeder Dog Bowl

This non-skid bowl is our pick for the best slow feeder dog bowl.
The Outward Hound Non-Skid Slow Feeder Dog Bowl is dishwasher-safe and works well for either wet or dry dog food. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Outward Hound Non-Skid Slow Feeder Dog Bowl is a budget-friendly favorite. It’s not too challenging for young dogs or puppies and is one of the only picks that’s great for wet or dry food, since the compartments are a bit bigger and easy to clean. It comes in two- or four-cup sizes.

This puzzle bowl is top-rack dishwasher safe and is made of food-safe BPA-free materials. It also features a handy non-slip base, so it doesn’t slide around when your dog is eating. Of the options on this list, this bowl isn’t the most challenging for super-fast eaters, but it’s easy to fill, clean, and slows your dog’s mealtime down a good amount.

Best Stainless Steel Slow Feeder Dog Bowl: Trot Puzzle Bowl

The Trot Puzzle bowl is our pick for the best non plastic slow feeder dog bowl.
When it comes to non-plastic slow feeder dog bowls, the Trot Puzzle Bowl is our favorite. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you prefer non-plastic dog bowls, the Trot Puzzle Bowl is an innovative stainless steel slow feeder option. It features a magnet on the bottom of the bowl which, when paired with the brand’s placemats, keeps the bowl from moving around as your dog eats. Trot also offers elevated stands that pair with their magnetic placemats for tall dogs.

The Trot Puzzle Bowl is quite heavy-bottomed and has a rubber ring around the base to keep it in place if you don’t use the brand’s placemats or elevated stands.

I find that this slow feeder bowl is a bit more challenging for dogs than the Outward Hound option above, so it’s a good pick for fast eaters.

Most Challenging Slow Feeder Dog Bowl: SodaPup Great Outdoors Enrichment Bowl

The most challenging slow feeder dog bowl reviewed.
If your dog needs a real challenge to slow them down during meals, try the SodaPup Great Outdoors Enrichment Bowl. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you have a deep-chested breed who is prone to bloat or a dog who inhales their food and has resulting digestive issues, the SodaPup Great Outdoors Enrichment Bowl is a great pick to slow your dog’s mealtime down significantly. It features lots of different shapes and small, deep compartments. In addition, it’s made out of FDA-compliant food safe, BPA-free, dishwasher safe materials.

My older dog, Miso, has been known to finish her dinner in 30 seconds flat out of a normal bowl. This bowl slowed her down to a little over 10 minutes, giving her more mental enrichment and better digestion.

The main downside to this bowl is that the small details can be a bit hard to clean, particularly if you feed your dog wet food. A straw dish brush may be needed to get any remaining gunk out of the smaller compartments. This bowl also slides around quite a bit on hard floors, so put it on a silicone place mat or on a rug to reduce slipping.

Best Slow Feeder Dog Bowl for Wet Food: Lickimat Wobble Slow Feeder Bowl

The lickimat wobble bowl is the best choice for wet food and short muzzled dogs.
The Lickimat Wobble Slow Feeder Bowl works best for wet food. It’s also a good choice for brachycephalic breeds. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Lickimat Wobble Slow Feeder Bowl was also a winner in our best dog lick mats guide and it’s a great option for slow feeding wet food. Wet food can easily be spread out in this bowl, and the grooved interior and wobbly design give dogs an extra challenge for their meals.

You can freeze your dog’s wet food in the bowl for even more enrichment time. If you’re planning on freezing it, adding kibble and water or dog-safe bone broth before popping it in the freezer is a good way to use this bowl for dogs who eat dry kibble.

The Lickimat Wobble Slow Feeder Bowl is a good option for flat-faced breeds, since they won’t have much trouble accessing the food.

Other Dog Slow Feeder Bowls We Tested

SodaPup Honeycomb Slow Feeder Dog Bowl

The honeycomb bowl works for feeding your dog different foods but isn't much of a challenge for dogs.
The SodaPup Honeycomb Slow Feeder Dog Bowl works well if you want to give your dog portions of several different foods. However, it slides around a lot and isn’t the most challenging for dogs who gobble their food. Credit: Jae Thomas

The SodaPup Honeycomb Slow Feeder Dog Bowl isn’t the most challenging for pups to eat from (my dogs averaged a five minute meal time with this bowl), but it is a nice option for portioning out multiple different types of food, medications, and supplements since it has multiple similarly-sized compartments. The bottom is quite slippery, so it’s best used on a silicone placemat or a rug to prevent it from moving all over the place while your dog eats from it.

Is Omeprazole Safe for Dogs?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Omeprazole is safe for dogs, but that comes with caveats and precautions that need to be taken.
You can give your dog omeprazole, but with the dosage variance and precautions that come with it for dogs, it’s wise to get your veterinarian’s approval first. Credit: Pressmaster | Getty Images

Omeprazole is an extra-label drug (off-label) medication used to reduce acid in your dog’s stomach and small intestine. As such, it can help with gastroesophageal reflux and gastric erosions or ulcers that might be caused by tumors, infections, or certain medications such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). It is sometimes part of a protocol to treat Helicobacter infections. You may see omeprazole listed as Prilosec (brand name).

 

Omeprazole Dosage for Dog

Omeprazole is given once a day. It’s usually best to give it in the morning an hour before your dog’s first meal. Some dogs don’t handle medication well on a totally empty stomach, so check with your veterinarian about giving a small amount of food with the medication if your dog vomits or acts nauseous.

The recommended dose is .25 to .5 mg or omeprazole per lb of weight once a day, but your veterinarian may adjust the dose for your dog depending on his overall health.

The medication comes as pills or capsules available OTC (over the counter), however, pills should not be crushed or cut due to the special protective coating to help the medication function best in the stomach, and capsules should not be opened for the same reason. Instead, your veterinarian may arrange to have it compounded to adjust the dose for your dog (especially very small or very large dogs) or have it made into an oral liquid or paste.

How Long to Give Omeprazole to Your Dog

Omeprazole should be given for the full amount of time your veterinarian recommends. If you miss a dose, just wait until the next morning to resume dosing.

Omeprazole can take a couple of days to become truly effective. It is not recommended for use beyond four to eight weeks. In addition, you should taper or wean your dog off this medication if it has been taken for more than a week or two. A sudden stop can lead to a rebound in acid production. Your veterinarian can help you with a dose-reduction schedule.

Side Effects of Omeprazole for Dogs

Being available OTC and having low risk for toxicity may suggest you can simply give it on your own. That is not a great idea! It should be given under veterinary supervision and guidance.

Side effects can include vomiting, diarrhea, intestinal gas, and a loss of appetite. These signs are usually mild but could mask signs of more serious illness.

A major potential problem with giving omeprazole is that it can interfere with other medications your dog may be taking. The list of drugs includes diuretics, some antibiotics and anti-fungals, medications for seizure control, thyroid medication, immunosuppressive drugs like cyclosporine, and some heart medications. Make sure your veterinarian is aware of any supplements, including herbal remedies your dog may be taking.

Caution is wise for dog with hepatic (liver) or renal (kidney) problems, although it can be helpful for both of those conditions. Dosages may need to be adjusted for these dogs or omeprazole avoided altogether.

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