You can generally recognize the zoomies by the wild look in your dog’s eyes, as well as bursts of speed accentuated by butt-tucking turns. Photo by Robjem, Getty Images
Most dog owners call the behavior “the zoomies.” The scientific name for these often-entertaining random energy bursts is “frenetic random activity period,” or FRAP, and some people refer to the behavior as “frapping.” Whatever you call it, it’s a completely normal dog behavior and, under most circumstances, it’s nothing to worry about.
Why do dogs get the zoomies?
We don’t know specially why dogs get the zoomies, but based on when they tend to happen, experts believe zoomies are an attempt to quickly release pent-up energy. All breeds of dogs can experience zoomies. The behavior is more common in younger dogs, but you’ll often see it in older dogs, too. (My 11-year-old Golden still gets the zoomies sometimes.)
When are dogs most likely to get the zoomies?
The most common times you can expect to see your dog get the zoomies are:
During periods of high excitement – For example, when you get home from work and your dog is excited to see you.
During play – When the activity is especially stimulating, play can boil over into an innocent case of the zoomies.
Late in the evening – Some dogs are more prone to zoomies late at night. It’s as if they’re looking to burn some energy before an extended period of rest.
After a bath – Likely to release pent-up energy from tolerating the bath. It’s also possible they enjoy the feeling of a breeze on their wet coat, or even that they’re trying to dry off. Who doesn’t love a good air-dry cycle?
Zoomies can also be a stress response
It’s not uncommon to see a dog get the zoomies during a training session when a dog becomes over-stimulated or finds some aspect of the training to be stressful. Your dog isn’t being naughty – he’s letting you know he’s struggling with some aspect of the situation. You might be tempted to address the issue by drilling stays or recalls in a training setting, but if your dog is stressed by the environment (too many distractions) or the work you’re asking him to do (repeating an exercise he finds challenging), drilling obedience behaviors isn’t likely to help. You’ll want to take a few steps back to look for – and identify – the root cause of the behavior.
Alternatively, you might experience what feels like goofy, completely unfocused, class clown behavior, often accompanied with excessive jumping and mouthiness in social situations. This behavior is often misunderstood as excessiveness friendliness, when in actuality, the dog likely so over-stimulated, she has little mental or physical control of her actions. This “fooling around” behavior can be just as much of a stress response as the better known, “flight, fight, or freeze” behaviors, and it’s your dog’s way of asking for help.
Are zoomies safe for dogs?
In general, “fun zoomies” are totally fine – and even endearing! Be mindful of the environment to help prevent accidental injury from slipping on slick floors or crashing into things, and protect yourself and other humans in the area by staying out of the way of your dog when he’s wildly zooming. Obedience cues often go unheard during a case of the zoomies, so it’s best to let frenetic behavior burn itself out before expecting your dog to respond correctly to known cues.
If your dog frequently gets the zoomies around the house, it could be a sign that she would benefit from more physical or mental stimulation through additional exercise, training, enrichment puzzles or other types of brain games.
While there are a number of medical reasons that can cause a dog to chew his nails or excessively lick his feet – and these reasons need to be investigated and eliminated – some dogs chew their paws out of boredom or anxiety. Photo by Cheryl Paz, Getty Images
It’s normal for dogs to self-groom by licking their paws. But excessive licking or chewing of the paws or nails could be cause for concern and likely necessitates a vet visit.
There are several reasons why your dog might be chewing their feet or nails. The most common causes include:
Yeast Infection – Yeast normally lives on a dog’s skin without issue, and Malassezia pachydermatis is the most common species found on dogs. But it’s an opportunistic pathogen; when something else causes an imbalance, Malassezia takes advantage of the situation and rapidly multiplies, especially in warm, moist areas.
Yeast infections of the feet and paws are common and make the surrounding skin horribly itchy, causing the dog to lick and bite at her feet, which intensifies the overgrowth of yeast.
Pruritic Pododermatitis – This is an umbrella diagnosis related to itchy feet with a number of causes, including parasites such as mites, hookworms, or yeast, as well as a reaction to a variety of contact, food, or inhaled allergens. Finding the underlying cause of pruritic pododermatitis is an important step in providing long-lasting relief.
Toenail and Foot Issues – Nails that are too long can cause discomfort and cause dogs to bite at their feet to find relief. Broken nails – either due to disease or injury – will also lead to excessive licking and chewing. Monitor your dog’s nails and train your dog to cooperate with nail trimming or grinding to help keep his nails healthy and in good shape. Check regularly for foxtails or other grass awns between the toes and pads.
Behavior Issues – In some cases, behaviors like excessive licking and chewing begin for an identifiable reason – such as an irritation or injury – but persist even after the issue has been resolved medically. Sometimes, it’s because the behavior has become a habit. It’s also possible the dog learned licking is a great way to get attention from an otherwise preoccupied owner.
Stop the Paw Obsession
If you’re confident there’s not a medical reason for the licking and chewing, try to proactively give your dog something else to do during the times when she’s most likely to chew her feet. Boredom can also contribute to repetitive behaviors such as licking and chewing, so it’s always good to take an honest inventory of your dog’s day and make sure you’re providing enough exercise and enrichment to meet your dog’s physical and mental health needs.
This little puppy is right at the soft end where it is all too easy to chew off string and consume it. Never allow a dog or puppy to chew a string toy. Credit: Kinek00 | Getty Images
Overall, rope toys are not safe for your dog, especially if he’s an aggressive chewer who likes to consume what he pulls from the toy.
If you notice – or even think, based on missing pieces of the toy – that your dog ate some of his rope toy, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian immediately.
If you see part of the string, like it is stuck to a tooth or wrapped around his tongue, but you don’t see the other end, do NOT pull on the string. Just pulling on it could cause it to become entrapped in the digestive tract or severely worsen the problem.
When you take your dog to the vet, he or she may make the dog vomit or may recommend adding canned pumpkin to the dog’s diet to help him pass the string safely. Even then, however, if the string becomes entangled, you’re looking at surgery.
Supervise All Toys
It’s not just string, though. Chewing and swallowing part of any toy can quickly become a veterinary emergency. No dog should be unsupervised when chewing on any type of toy or chew toy.
A study from The Journal of Small Animal Practice looked at 499 cases where dogs had swallowed either a linear foreign body (in other words, string-like objects) or a non-linear foreign body (like anything else). They found that dogs with a linear foreign body had more severe clinical signs and an increased duration of hospitalization and cost of the procedure. Interestingly, however, the study found survival rates in both types of obstructions to be similar. Swallowing anything but food is a bad idea.
My Dog Doesn’t Swallow String
OK, whether your dog chews off some of the rope or not might depend a little on your dog’s personality. Some dogs chew more aggressively than others. And size matters. A little Shih Tzu or Pomeranian probably will take a lot longer to destroy a rope toy than a big Doberman Pinscher or a Rottweiler. Dogs are individual, creative chewers, and they all need to be supervised.
That’s why most veterinarians and dog trainers recommend something other than rope toys for dogs. If your dog loves to chew or play tug of war, Wendy Beatty, co-founder of Playology, a company that invents and makes dog toys, recommends malleable and bendable, hard rubber toys like a Kong, which also is highly rated by Whole Dog Journal to combat boredom and allow safer chewing.
What If My Dog Likes to Play Tug Of War?
Tug is fun for dogs! Don’t discourage him, says animal behaviorist and dog trainer Jody Epstein, because it’s good exercise for him when done right – and for you, too.
Whole Dog Journal Training Editor Pat Miller agrees: “Not all dogs enjoy tugging, but if your dog does, go for it!” She says the old belief that tugging will make your dog dominant is not true, but you do need to play safe.
For years, people have used a knotted rope or a rope toy to play tug with their dogs. Fleece tugs are the modern alternative to rope tugs, but with any tug you run the risk of material being swallowed if it is bitten off. Keep all tugs in good shape, replacing them if they become weak or shredding. An alternative to soft tugs is a hard rubber toy in the shape of rings that will suffice as a tug.
Note: If your dog isn’t a fan of tug, that’s OK, too. There are plenty of other games to play, like fetch a ball or a disk. Use the proper sized ball or disk, however, so your dog doesn’t accidentally swallow it and begin choking.
If you find a dog, putting up fliers that are bigger than this will be more effective. While a photo is good, it may be more useful to use bigger, bolder type to briefly describe the dog, such as, “FOUND: LARGE BLACK DOG, MALE” and your phone number. Photo by Goads Agency, Getty Images.
Are you one of the good Samaritans who stopped to pick up a dog you found running along a roadway, or offered the stray dog who has been spotted running around your neighborhood a square meal and a safe place to sleep? And now that he’s been saved from the street, you’re wondering who to call about that stray dog, and where you can take him?
Wonder no longer. Here are the steps you should take after you have found a lost dog:
Bring him to your local animal shelter to be scanned for a microchip, to check for a “lost dog” report, and to file a “found dog” report. If you are not sure where the correct shelter is located, call the closest veterinary hospital; they will always know where local strays should be taken.
In the best-case scenario, he’s in possession of a registered identification microchip, and a quick scan at the shelter gives the staff the information they need to quickly reunite the dog and his owner. Yay! If he has no microchip, however, or the one he has is not registered with current contact information for the owner (Boo!), then someone – either you or the shelter staff – will have to do some detective work, to see if the owner can be found.
Most shelters maintain a log of “lost dog” and “found dog” reports. At my local shelter, they allow people to look through the log themselves – and they try to make matches when someone at the front counter has time, which isn’t all that often. But if someone is making an honest effort to find their lost dog, this is one of the places they will look.
If he’s a super nice dog and you don’t want to leave him at the shelter – and if you have the space and ability to keep him safe at your home – most shelters will allow you to take him home, and will forward your contact information to anyone who comes to the shelter looking for him. But be aware that sometimes, people only search their shelter websites for pictures of their lost dogs, and if the dog is not at the shelter, his picture will not appear on the shelter website. Only an owner who comes to the shelter and looks through the found dog reports will learn that you have the dog. The odds of being reunited with his owner are better if he’s at the shelter than anywhere else.
But if you live in an area where unclaimed stray dogs get euthanized fairly quickly, and you have the ability to securely house and feed the dog, by all means, let the shelter know that you will care for him while you add the following steps to your “to do” list
Use social media to advertise the dog, and ask all your friends who are online to share the post. Take a good, clear photo of the dog and post a description on your own social media (make sure your posts are public, so they can be shared widely) and on the pages of any animal-welfare sites in your area. In my area, there are Facebook groups with names like “Oroville Lost and Found Pets” (serving my town), Butte County Lost/Found Animals (serving my county), “530 Lost and Found Pets” (serving a several-country area served by the 530 area code). Search for the term “lost and found pets” on Facebook and you should find several for your area. You can also ask other dog owners you know if they are aware of other groups like this. Nextdoor.com is another site where posts like this can be widely shared.
Be aware that some of these groups require people to be a “member” of the group before they can post, so there might be a delay of a day or two between finding the groups and being able to post in them. Post a good photo, describe the dog, and include your phone number.
Don’t forget about craigslist.org: You can post a description of the found dog there, too. Not long ago, the roommate of a friend accidentally allowed my friend’s dog to escape the house when my friend was not home. Dozens of his friends quickly shared his “lost dog” posts on Facebook, but he received a call from someone he knew who saw a “found dog” post on craigslist.org that sounded like it was about his dog (and it was). The finders were an older couple who eschew social media. Hedge your bets and post in every forum you can!
Make some “Found Dog” signs. There are lots of people who don’t have a computer or use social media. Posting some “Found Dog” fliers in well-trafficked areas near where the dog was found will reach those people. Use a big, clear photo and a large font with your phone number – preferably so large that it can be read from a passing car. Or, you can make a larger poster without a photo but briefly describing the dog, such as, “Found: Large black male dog, short tail.” That’s enough for someone who has lost their dog to recognize the possibility the dog you have might be theirs. Try to post them at major intersections within a mile or three of where the dog was found.
It’s also helpful to distribute fliers to local veterinary clinics, pet supply stores, groomers, and other animal-related businesses that have a bulletin board or other location for fliers.
Should you find the dog a nice home with someone you know?
I think you can answer this question by asking yourself whether you would want this outcome if your dog went astray. Say you were on vacation for two weeks and your dog got away from the dog walker or neighborhood kid you hired to care for your dog while you were gone. Someone found the dog, but because they didn’t get a response to their found-dog posts or the report at the shelter, they assumed the dog had been “dumped” and gave the dog to their brother-in-law (or someone else). That person, your dog’s new owner, might never be aware that “your” dog is very much loved and missed and wanted.
If you fall in love with the dog, and are tempted to keep him yourself, just keep in mind that there can be any number of reasons why a person may be unable to search for their beloved dog, or see and respond to “found dog” ads. There was just an article in the Washington Post about a man who was in the hospital, with a friend taking care of his little dog. His condition worsened, and his doctors put him into a medically induced coma for over three weeks. Sometime after he was reawakened, his friend came to tell him the sad news that his dog had run away weeks before. The dog had been picked up and taken to a shelter, where, after being unclaimed for weeks, he was put up for adoption – and was adopted by a person who fostered him for the shelter.
Fortunately, an intermediary who was familiar with the shelter connected the adopter and the dog’s original owner, and acted as an intermediary to convince the new owner that the little dog really did belong with his original owner, who lost the dog through no fault of his own. But the media is full of stories like this with more contentious endings, where the new owners won’t give up their newly adopted dog, and the shelter is unable to legally intervene.
It’s best if you can host the dog yourself while continuing to share occasional found-dog posts, at least for a couple months, before determining that no one is out there still looking for their dog. Ask your local shelter staff what the law in your state requires before you can consider a “found dog” your own, and when sufficient time has passed, get the dog licensed in your name and get microchipped – and make sure you register it as soon as possible.
To control bacterial infections on your dog’s skin, treat all wounds immediately, flushing them with water and then an antiseptic like chlorhexidine. And then keep an eye on them.
Bacteria are ever present in your dog’s world. Most are important to his overall health, but a bacterial infection that makes your dog ill may require a trip to the veterinarian.
Dog bacterial infections can happen in several ways:
An injury provides an opening for pathogenic (bad) bacteria to enter
Overzealous use of antibiotics wipe out the good bacteria, so harmful bacteria can take over
A trauma or viral/fungal infection opens the door for bacteria to set up shop as a secondary infection
Dietary problems, such as too quick a change in food
Skin allergies and infections
Hot spots – the classic hot spot on the dog’s neck or cheek is an example of a staph bacterial infection
Harmful Bacteria Invasions
Sometimes bacterial infections are due to the overgrowth of healthy bacteria. Remember, you can’t rid your dog of all bacteria, because most of these microorganisms are beneficial and important to your dog’s microbiome, which is a community of beneficial organisms that keep us healthy. If your dog has a bacterial infection, immediate intervention can bring the best prognosis.
When the ratio of good to harmful bacterial species gets out of whack, such as on the skin or the hair follicles, clinical problems or signs of infection can arise. This is one of the reasons the improper use of antibiotics is so dangerous. Overuse of antibiotics can lead to resistance developing in harmful bacteria that are normally well handled by your dog’s immune system.
Fighting Bacterial Infections
If your dog gets a cut or wound, clean it thoroughly. First flush with water, then use a cleanser such as chlorhexidine. Try to avoid using antibiotics. If the injury doesn’t heal, contact your veterinarian.
If bacteria gain access to the urinary tract, infections can set up. Be aware of the symptoms and contact your veterinarian.
Make diet changes gradually, so your dog’s gut microbiome can adjust to the change in nutrients.
Get treatment for yeast/fungal infections right away. Most infections can be treated topically and with appropriate systemic medications, if needed, to prevent any secondary bacterial overgrowth.
Use any prescribed antibiotics for bacterial infections exactly as prescribedand use up the entire prescription unless told otherwise. Your veterinarian may recommend a culture and sensitivity laboratory test if an infection recurs to help guide the treatment choices.
Remember, normal bacteria maintain a population on your dog’s skin and help your dog digest food. “Good” bacteria help to counter “bad” bacteria and keep your dog healthy. But when things get out of balance, infections can and do set in.
Not all dogs who are infested with intestinal worms are thin. Dogs with a minor worm burden may show no symptoms at al; however, the more worms they are hosting, the more weight and body condition they will lose. Photo by Mary Swift, Getty Images
Roundworms, whipworms, hookworms, and tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasites that afflict dogs. To eliminate these worms, there are currently six drugs available for use in dogs in the United States, and a myriad of choices of products that offer these drugs alone and in varying combinations.
The best dewormer for your dog is one that addresses your dog’s individual risk for contracting intestinal parasites, that is convenient to administer, and that addresses any breed-specific risks (see “The MDR1 Mutation and Milbemycin and Moxidectin,” below). The only dewormers that are not routinely recommended are ones that contain piperazine. Dewormers that contain piperazine have limited effectiveness against roundworms and do not address any other intestinal parasites. Your veterinarian can help you determine which dewormer is best for your dog’s lifestyle and risk factors for contracting intestinal parasites, but here is information about each drug that will help inform your decision:
Drug
Available forms
Effective Against
NOT Effective Against
Administration Frequency
Safe to Use
Do Not Give To
Milbemycin (pronounced mil-beh-MY-sin)
Oral tablet or chewable
Hookworm roundworm, whipworm (also heartworm)
Tapeworm
Once a month
Adult dogs, puppies as young as 4 weeks old and at least 2 lbs
Pregnant or nursing dogs
Fenbendazole (pronounced fen-BEN-da-zole) Note: A drug called febantel is available only in the dewormer Drontal Plus for Dogs. Febantel is metabolized in a dog's body to fenbendazole and has the same spectrum of activity as fenbendazole.)
Oral medication (as either granules to be mixed with food or as a liquid given by oral syringe)
Hookworm, roundworm, whipworm, and some forms of tapeworm
Dipylidium caninum (the most common tapeworm, which is transmitted by fleas)
Once a day for three to five consecutive days
Adult dogs, puppies as young as 6 weeks old, pregnant dogs
Praziquantel (pronounced pra-zi-KWON-tell)
Oral medication, either by itself or combined with other dewormer drugs that combat hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm; it also available in some once-a-month heartworm preventatives
Several species of tapeworm, including the most common tapeworm that is transmitted by fleas
Usually, just one dose. A second dose may be necessary if a dog is at risk of becoming reinfected by fleas. Reinfection with this species of tapeworm can be prevented by using a high quality flea preventative and treating the home environment for fleas.
Adult dogs, puppies as young as 4 weeks old, and pregnant and nursing dogs
Pyrantel (pronounced pie-RAN-tell)
Oral tablet or liquid
Adult hookworms and adult roundworms residing in a dog's small intestine
Tapeworm, whipworm, or larval stages of hookworm or roundworm
Three doses needed, given two weeks apart (this dosing regime is designed to kill all the adult worms; it takes about two to four weeks for the larval stages of hookworms androundworms to develop into adults)
Adult dogs, puppies as young as 2 weeks old, and pregnant and nursing dogs
Moxidectin (pronounced mox-ee-DEK-tin)
Topical
Oral tablet (Simparica Trio, which also contains two other drugs):
Injectable (ProHeart 6 and ProHeart 12)
Hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm (also heartworm)
Hookworm, roundworm (also heartworm)
Hookworm (also heartworm)
Once a month
Once a month
ProHeart 6 is given every six months; ProHeart 12 is given every 12 months
Adult dogs, puppies at least 7 weeks old and 3 lbs
Adult dogs, puppies at least 8 weeks of age and 2.8 lbs
Adult dogs, puppies more than 6 months old
Pregnant or nursing dogs
Pregnant or nursing dogs
Puppies less than 6 months old, dogs who are heartworm-positive.
Piperazine (pronounced pie-per-a-ZEEN)
Oral tablet, liquid, paste, and gel (piperazine is paired with a variety of salts; each combination contains a different amount of piperazine. Follow label directions for the product you select regarding age, weight, and safe use in pregnant or nursing dogs
Limited efficacy against adult roundworms residing in a dog’s small intestine
Larval forms of roundworm, and hookworm, tapeworm, or whipworm
Given in three doses, two weeks apart
Dogs with chronic liver or kidney disease
How to deworm your dog
The hookworm Ancylostoma caninum has been developing resistance to all of the dewormers currently authorized for use in the United States; this was first observed in racing Greyhounds but has been confirmed much more widely. Photo by Himagine, Getty Images
The easiest way to deworm your dog is to use an effective heartworm preventative all year long. Heartworm preventatives do more than just prevent heartworm disease. They also treat your dog for intestinal parasites. Some heartworm preventatives also include an insect growth regulator for flea prevention. Others include a drug that quickly kills ticks that become attached to your dog.
Each heartworm preventative product – with its particular combination of drugs – has a different spectrum of activity against intestinal parasites. For example, some preventatives are effective against hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm but not tapeworm. Other preventatives are effective against only roundworm and hookworm while some preventatives are effective against roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, and tapeworm.
The Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC) recommends that puppies be treated with a dewormer effective against roundworm and hookworm at two, four, six, and eight weeks of age. Puppies should be started on a monthly heartworm preventative as soon as they are old enough and weigh enough to receive the preventative.
According to the CAPC, if a puppy receives his first dose of dewormer at 6 to 8 weeks old, then the following deworming schedule is recommended:
Administer a dose of dewormer. Use a dewormer that contains pyrantel, fenbendazole, or a combination of pyrantel and febantel.
In two weeks, administer your puppy’s first dose of heartworm preventative.
In four weeks, administer a second dose of dewormer.
In six weeks, administer the next dose of heartworm preventative. Continue heartworm prevention all year long.
If you do not want your puppy or dog to be on heartworm preventative, then you should deworm according to the following schedule recommended by CAPC:
Puppies should be dewormed every two weeks starting at 2 weeks of age until they are 2 months old.
Puppies between 2 and 6 months of age should be dewormed once a month.
Adult dogs and puppies more than 6 months of age should be dewormed once every three months.
Use a broad-spectrum dewormer that is effective against roundworm, hookworm, and whipworm. If your dog is not on a flea or flea/tick preventative, then select a dewormer that is also effective against the tapeworm Dipylidium caninum.
The MDR1 Mutation and Milbemycin and Moxidectin
Dogs who have an MDR1 gene mutation are more sensitive to the effects of milbemycin and moxidectin. MDR1 refers to a gene called “MultiDrug Resistance 1” and is also known as gene ABCB1. A mutation in this gene allows higher levels of certain medications – including milbemycin and moxidectin – to enter the brain from the bloodstream.
Certain breeds of dogs are more likely to have the MDR1 gene mutation. According to Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine, these breeds include Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs (Shelties), Australian Shepherds, Old English Sheepdogs, English Shepherds, German Shepherds, Longhaired Whippets (also known as Silken Windhounds or Windsprites), and a variety of mixed-breed dogs.
When used at the dosages present in heartworm preventatives, milbemycin and moxidectin do not cause an adverse reaction in dogs who have the MDR1 gene mutation. However, milbemycin and moxidectin should be used cautiously in dogs with the MDR1 gene mutation who are also receiving certain cardiac medications, certain antibiotics or antifungals, or cyclosporine.
Testing your dog to see if he has the MDR1 gene mutation is easy and can be done at home. You can order a cheek swab test from Washington State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine (click here) or by calling (509) 335-3745. Your veterinarian can also submit a blood sample to WSU to test for the MDR1 gene mutation.
Drug-Resistant Hookworms
Within the past decade, the hookworm Ancylostoma caninum has been developing resistance to all of the dewormers currently authorized for use in the United States, including pyrantel, fenbendazole, and moxidectin. This phenomenon was originally seen in retired racing Greyhounds but has since been seen in a variety of dog breeds.
It is thought that A. caninum started developing drug resistance through the inappropriate use of dewormers at Greyhound race tracks. Dewormers labeled for use in large animals can often be obtained without a prescription. This gave trainers an easy route to obtain dewormers that may not work the same in dogs as it does in large animals. There may also have been instances where an inappropriately low dose of a dewormer was given to the dogs, thus eliminating some hookworms but allowing hardy hookworms to survive and thrive.
Other factors that are thought to have contributed to the development of drug-resistant A. caninum include the mild, temperate climate of the Southeast where the majority of Greyhound race tracks were once located. The eggs and larvae of A. caninum are killed by freezing temperatures that are not often seen in the Southeast region. The sandy surface of Greyhound race tracks also provided a perfect growth medium for A. caninum larvae.
Dogs who are suspected to be infected with drug resistant hookworms can be treated with a combination of fenbendazole, pyrantel, and moxidectin. Your veterinarian will determine the dose and frequency of each dewormer administered. A fecal egg count reduction test should be performed before and after treatment to determine the effectiveness of the drug combination.
There is evidence that a medication called emodepside may be effective at eliminating drug-resistant hookworms. This medication is licensed for use in dogs in Europe but not yet in the United States. Emodepside is one of the medications in the topical dewormer Profender licensed for use in cats, but only the oral formulation of emodepside is effective in dogs. Hopefully, this medication will become licensed for use in dogs in the United States.
Kate, the first puppy to show symptoms, was already underweight when she first showed symptoms of parvo, so her weight loss looks rather shocking. Fortunately, she’s on the road to recovery. Photo by Lisa Pound, Durham Doggie Posse + Kittens!
With just a couple of exceptions, every time I have fostered a dog or litter of puppies, I’ve done it for my local shelter. While sometimes I disagree with the shelter’s policies or am frustrated with the shelter’s limitations, if any of the dogs or puppies I am fostering for them has a medical issue, the shelter will treat the dog or pups at their expense – it doesn’t come down to my ability to pay an unexpected vet bill, and I’m grateful for that.
A friend in my area runs a small rescue organization, the Durham Doggie Posse +Kittens!, which she and one of her best friends operate out of their homes. Lisa and Melissa obtained a nonprofit charity status some years ago, and solicit for donations from their friends and people who follow them on social media – and frequently raise funds by doing things like baking and auctioning off cheesecakes and fruit pies, or jams made with fruit from their own fruit trees. (And I’m sure quite a bit of their own money goes into feeding and providing veterinary care for the dogs and puppies, cats and kittens they rescue and place.) They sometimes pull unclaimed animals from local shelters, but they also trap feral cats and get them spayed/neutered, and have also responded to pleas from local residents who found abandoned litters or injured animals.
Recently, they took on the job of fostering a litter of 11 puppies from a local shelter, with most of the puppies staying at Lisa’s home and a few fostered in friends’ homes. So far, all but four pups have been spayed/neutered and adopted into loving homes – but a few days ago, one of the puppies in the care of one of the foster providers stopped eating and drinking. Not wanting to burden her friend with caring for a sick pup, Lisa brought the pup back to her own home – and then took the pup to our local veterinary emergency room the next day. The pup had come down with parvovirus – and a day later, the second pup in the same home followed his sister’s symptom path.
This little organization cannot afford to pay for the gold standard of care for parvo – a couple days (at least) of hospitalization and IV fluids and medication – for one puppy, much less two. Lisa asked the veterinarian what she could do to care for the pup (now two pups) at home.
Fortunately, there is an alternative to the gold standard of care, which is hospitalization with fluids and other medicines administered via IV. (We published an article about this 10 years ago, here.) The College of Veterinary Medicine & Biosciences at Colorado State University’s Veterinary Teaching Hospital developed an outpatient treatment protocol a decade ago that has saved countless canine lives at a fraction of the cost of gold standard care. The protocol (available here) calls for the administration of subcutaneous fluids and doses of antibiotics and anti-emetic drugs, as well as anti-nausea and pain medication if needed. Once, it was common for veterinarians to suggest there wasn’t an outpatient alternative for puppies who were sick with parvovirus (it was hospitalization or euthanasia), but this protocol has shown an 80% to 90% success rate in pulling through these patients.
That doesn’t mean it’s cheap: Veterinary supervision, tests, the fluids and drugs – this all adds up. But it makes the cost of treating these shelter pups about $500 to $600 apiece, instead of $4,000 or more apiece.
And it’s not easy, or for the faint of heart! Providing all this care is a lot of work – especially since care must also be taken to keep the sick pups away from other animals in the household, and lots of cleaning and disinfecting goes into preventing the infection from spreading outside the care provider’s household. And administering sub-Q fluids – piercing the puppy’s skin with a fairly large-gauge needle – is scary at first. I’ve fostered only one puppy who needed the administration of sub-Q fluids several times a day, and I found it to be fairly nerve-wracking. If I had a dog who needed this care on a regular basis, I’m sure I could get used to it, but as a complete rookie, it was daunting! My heart completely goes out to Lisa, who is providing treatment for both puppies twice a day.
The good news is, the second puppy (who received treatment faster than the first pup, given that the diagnosis was all but ensured with the arrival of his very first symptom) bounced back very quickly and is able to eat and hold down food. And even the sicker first puppy, who had the burden of being more underweight even before they were sick, is starting to eat and is (so far) holding down her small meals.
Given my own puppy fostering experiences, and the fact that I know that these puppies may well have been euthanized if they had the bad luck to “break” with parvo while they were still in the shelter, I can only shake my head in admiration for these local sheroes. Toss them – or your own local shelter or rescue group! – a dollar or two if you can, won’t you? (Here is a link to Lisa’s Venmo account; ordinarily, folks bring checks to Lisa’s home, and while she has this Venmo account, she hasn’t yet set up one for the Doggie Posse.) This work is unrelenting and draining, and everyone involved could use a little help.
Dogs love sticks! They especially enjoy carrying them and gnawing on them, all of which could cause something to get stuck in their mouths, irritate them, and cause the dog to repeatedly swallow. Credit: Steve Clancy Photography, Getty Images
You notice your dog keeps swallowing a lot, acting like something is stuck in his throat. He may have drool leaking out of his mouth, in addition to swallowing repeatedly.
If your dog will let you, start by gently examining your dog’s mouth to look for a cause of the swallowing. Check the roof of his mouth for something a like a bone shard or short stick stuck across the hard palate. That can be a quick and easy fix if your dog will let you remove it.
NOTE: If you notice a string or thread stuck under his tongue, do NOT try to pull on that. That discovery should lead to a visit to the veterinarian. Your dog need surgery for a linear foreign body, like a string extending from the tongue into the digestive system.
Irritation Causes Excess Saliva
Anything that has irritated the tissues in your dog’s mouth can make him swallow more than usual and is usually accompanied by lots of saliva. This could be tissue damage from chewing on an electric cord or lapping up something hot like coffee laced with sugar and cream. Sneaking a spicy pepper from the garden or chewing on a mildly toxic plant can have the same result.
A dog who is swallowing repeatedly but does not appear to have anything stuck in his mouth may be nauseous. This type of abnormal swallowing is often accompanied by copious saliva, a “hangdog” look, and often some retching.
If you cannot positively identify and correct what’s causing the excessive swallowing, a visit to the veterinary clinic is required to determine the reason.
Dangerous Esophageal Blockages
Excessive swallowing with large amounts of drool and some gagging could indicate something stuck in his esophagus. If you can safely do so, open your dog’s mouth wide and look for a foreign object. You can also palpate his neck from the outside, but many objects are hard to detect and, even if you can see it, you may not be able to remove it yourself. A blockage in the esophagus is nothing to mess around with, and an urgent trip to the veterinarian is in order.
While some dogs will panic and yelp when they discover they are “stuck” to their sexual partner after the first stage of intercourse, most will resign themselves to their situation and just wait patiently until it resolves naturally. Dogs who are tied should never be forced apart. Photo by curraheeshutter, Getty Images
If you have just observed two dogs mating for the first time, you may be shocked and concerned; it can look a little disturbing. The way dogs mate is unique among the mammalian species – particularly the part where the dogs get “stuck” together by their genitalia, in a butt-to- butt stance. Sometimes the dogs themselves become alarmed by their inability to escape from their partner, and may yelp or scream in apparent pain or discomfort. That’s when concerned owners or bystanders to an unplanned canine mating may try various things to separate the dogs, from physically pulling them apart to spraying them with water from a cold hose. Both of these tactics are not only ineffective but also cruel and possibly injurious to the dogs. The best thing to do is keep the dogs calm and contained (just snap a leash onto each dog’s collar) and wait for the process to end; they will separate naturally within about five to 45 minutes.
Why Dogs Get “Stuck” When Mating
A successful tie or even the length of the tie does not guarantee pregnancy – and interrupting the process does not guarantee the prevention of a pregnancy. To prevent injury to the dogs, owners or bystanders should just leash the dogs and wait calmly until the dogs separate on their own. Photo by buffaloboy, Getty Images
An intact female dog has two phases to her heat cycle (see “How long are dogs in heat?”). It is during the second phase that she will enter estrus, the period of time during which she will become receptive to being mated with an intact male dog.
The female dog begins the mating process by positioning her tail to the side and allowing the male dog to mount her. The male dog becomes aroused and his penis will become erect and protrude from the prepuce. The male dog will stand on his hindlimbs and grasp the female dog around her “waist” with his forelimbs.
Once mounted, the male dog’s penis enters the female dog’s vagina. The male dog thrusts his hips back and forth for about one to two minutes. Semen is deposited into the female’s vagina during this process. This is the first stage of coitus (intercourse).
Then the male dog will dismount from the female dog and stand with both forelimbs to one side of the female dog. He then swings one hindlimb over the female dog’s hind end. This is called the turn; it marks the end of the first stage and the beginning of the second stage of coitus.
Once the male dog has turned, both dogs will stand facing opposite directions with their hind ends touching. The vulva of the female dog is lined with smooth muscle that contracts around the male dog’s bulbus glandis – a round swelling that surrounds the base of the penis. The contraction of the vulva and muscle contractions at the base of the penis prevent blood from leaving the penis and keeps the penis erect. People who breed dogs call the locking of the vulva around the penis is called “the tie” – most dog owners call it “getting stuck.”
During the second stage of coitus, the male dog will steadily deposit semen into the vagina. Since the vulva and the penis are locked together, the pressure inside the vagina increases. This forces the semen (and therefore the sperm) into the uterus so that the sperm can fertilize the eggs to create little puppy embryos.
The second stage of coitus can last anywhere from five to 45 minutes. Once the smooth muscle of the vulva relaxes, blood is allowed to leave the penis. The erection ceases and the male dog removes his penis from the female dog’s vulva and walks away.
Once dogs have become tied, it is important to let the process resolve naturally. Attempting to “unstick” dogs who are tied can result in serious harm to one or both dogs. The smooth muscle of the vulva is strong and the penis is swollen and erect, essentially locking the penis within the vagina. This is similar to inserting a key in a lock and turning the key; the key will not come out of the lock until the key has been returned to its original position. Once the vulva has relaxed and the penis is no longer erect, the dogs will “unstick” themselves.
A successful tie or even the length of the tie does not guarantee pregnancy – and interrupting the process does not guarantee the prevention of a pregnancy. Other factors play a role in whether or not a dog becomes pregnant, including fertility of the female, sperm count of the male, and the overall health and the age of each dog.
How to Know if Your Dog Is Pregnant
There are two tests to determine whether or not a dog is pregnant. One of these is a test for the hormone relaxin. This is a blood test that can be done by your dog’s veterinarian. Relaxin is produced by the placenta that surrounds the puppy embryos. This hormone is produced starting between day 22 and 27 of pregnancy.
The second test for pregnancy is an ultrasound completed by your dog’s veterinarian. Puppy embryos can be seen on ultrasound as early as three weeks into your dog’s pregnancy.
There is no urine test for pregnancy in dogs like there is for people. There are pregnancy tests that you can purchase on-line for your dog. However, these are blood tests that require that you be comfortable with drawing blood from your dog. For most people, having the blood test completed by their dog’s veterinarian is the safer and easier choice.
Abortion Options for Unwanted Pregnancies
If your dog becomes pregnant and the pregnancy is not desired, there are two options for terminating the pregnancy. Each option carries with it some level of risk for your dog.
The first option is having your dog spayed as soon as possible. There is always risk associated with any surgical and anesthetic procedure. But when a dog is pregnant, there is increased blood flow to the uterus to provide nutrition to the puppy embryos. This increases the risk of bleeding during the spay procedure.
The second option is an injectable medication called dinoprost (also known as prostaglandin F2-alpha) This medication is given twice a day until the puppy embryos are aborted. The earliest this medication can be given is at day 25 of pregnancy. The average length of pregnancy in dogs is 63 days.
Side effects of dinoprost in dogs include abdominal pain, vomiting, increased heart rate, restlessness, anxiety, fever, drooling, difficulty breathing, and panting. Death of the pregnant dog is a possible complication. Dinoprost can be combined with intravaginal administration of a drug called misoprostol to decrease the dose of dinoprost required to terminate a pregnancy.
Preventing Unwanted Pregnancy
If your reproductively intact female dog is in heat and you do not want her to become pregnant, keep her indoors and away from intact male dogs. Closely supervise her when she is outside to ensure that an intact male dog does not come near her. The influence of hormones on the desire to procreate is strong with intact male dogs and with female dogs that are in the second phase of their heat cycle.
The easiest way to prevent a pregnancy in an intact female dog is to have her spayed. Talk to your veterinarian about the appropriate age at which to have your dog spayed.
Those things that look like pieces of white rice around this dog’s rear end are tapeworm proglottids – segments of mature worms that contain tapeworm eggs. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Intestinal parasites – such as roundworms, whipworms, hookworms, and tapeworms – are common in dogs and puppies. Mango worms and cuterebra (pronounced cue-tuh-RE-bra) are fly larvae that infect the skin but are not common parasites.
Roundworms
Roundworms are thin, light tan-colored worms that are about one to two millimeters wide (about 1/16 of an inch) and anywhere from four to fifteen centimeters long (about 1 ½ to 6 inches). One end of the worm is shaped like a spear and the other end is lightly coiled. When alive, the entire roundworm will become tightly coiled like a snake.
Most adult dogs will not exhibit any symptoms when they are infected with roundworm. It’s rare, but some adult dogs may vomit live roundworms or may have roundworms in their poop.
Puppies infected with roundworm will often have a pot-bellied appearance and a dull haircoat. They may have diarrhea that contains mucus. Unlike adult dogs, infected puppies will often vomit live roundworms and have roundworms in their poop.
Whipworms
Whipworms are extremely thin, white worms that are about 4.5 to 7.5 centimeters long (about 2 to 3 inches). The worm resembles a leather whip (like the one used in the Indiana Jones movies). One end of the worm is thick like a whip’s handle and the other end is thin like a whip’s lash.
Dogs who have only a small number of whipworms in their small and large intestines do not typically show any symptoms of whipworm infection. Dogs who are infected with a large amount of whipworms will often exhibit weight loss and diarrhea.
Hookworms
Hookworms are off-white colored worms that are four to five millimeters wide (about ⅛ of an inch) and one to two centimeters long (about ½ to ¾ of an inch). These worms have a hook on one end that resembles a fish hook.
Dogs who have only a small number of hookworms in their small intestines do not typically show any symptoms of hookworm infection. Dogs who are infected with a large amount of hookworms may have dark, tarry stool. Left untreated, these dogs may become anemic, lethargic, and lose weight.
Puppies infected with hookworm will often have anemia that can become life-threatening. These puppies may also be thin and lethargic.
Hookworm can also cause pruritic pododermatitis. Hookworm is often thought of as being an intestinal parasite. But hookworm can also enter a dog’s body through penetration of the skin, typically the underside of the webbing between their toes. Hookworm causes an intense itching when it penetrates the skin.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms are off-white colored worms that are 15 to 70 centimeters long (about 6 inches to over two feet). The part of the tapeworm that most people see in a dog’s poop or on the skin around the anus is the proglottid – a segment of the mature worm that breaks off and is released into the dog’s poop. These proglottids, which resemble small grains of rice and may appear around the dog’s anus, or stuck to his fur near his anus, also contain tapeworm eggs.
Dogs rarely show any symptoms of tapeworm infection. The presence of tapeworm proglottids may cause irritation of the skin around the anus, resulting in a dog scooting his butt on the ground.
These parasites are not actually worms
There are two parasites that can infect dogs through their skin, when dogs come into contact with their larvae in soil. The first-stage larvae burrow through the dog’s skin and develop into later-stage larvae, and, eventually into a botfly, which lays its eggs in soil.
Mango worms
The mango worm the larvae of the African tumbu fly. After getting through the dog’s skin, the larva creates a small furuncle that looks like a pimple. The furuncle has a small opening through which the larva breathes.
Once inside the skin, the larva molts into a second stage larva and then a third stage larva. The second stage larva is shaped like a club and is 2.5 to 4.0 millimeters long (about ⅛ of an inch). The third stage larva is shaped like a cylinder and is about 1.5 centimeters long (about ½ of an inch). The initial furuncle may be itchy for a couple of days and then subside. As the larva grows and matures, the furuncle may develop into a painful boil with a weeping discharge. Once the larva has reached maturity, it leaves the boil to finish pupating into the tumbu fly.
Mango worms are endemic in the sub-Saharan region of Africa. Infection with this larva is rarely seen in the United States. When infection with mango worms is seen in the United States, it is typically associated with recent travel to Africa. So, unless your dog is a world traveler, you don’t need to worry about mango worms!
Cuterebra
Cuterebra is the larva of the rabbit botfly. This larva also burrows into the skin and initially creates a small swelling about one centimeter wide. As the larva grows and matures, the swelling can become large and painful and look like an abscess. The swelling will have a small hole in the middle through which the larva breathes. If you look carefully at the hole, you may see the larva moving inside!
Unlike the mango worm, cuterebra is found throughout the United States. Immature larvae are grey or cream-colored, shaped like a cylinder with little ridges, and 0.5 to 1 centimeter long (about ¼ to ½ inch). The mature larvae are dark grey, can be up to three centimeters long (about 1 ¼ inches) and are cylindrically shaped with many ridges and spines.
This looks like a convenient airtight container, but where is the kibble from the rest of the bag? If the main bag was simply “rolled” shut, it’s not being stored properly, and the nutrients will degrade that much faster. Credit: Yana Tikhonova
Buying a large bag of dog food can cost you a few pennies less per pound, but it’s not worth the savings if you can’t use the bag up within four to six weeks. While dog foods don’t technically “expire,” foods past their “best by” or “use by” label dates are not as nutritious and are more likely to become moldy or otherwise compromised (even toxic). Don’t use dog food past its “best by” or “use by” date. It’s like eating expired breakfast cereal (yuck!).
Consider “Best By” an Expiration Date
The “use by” or “best by” dates are important enough to consider expiration dates. When a nutritionist formulates dog food, he or she calculates how long various ingredients, vitamins, and minerals remain potent and when they start to degrade. By the time you get to that “use by” date, you’re probably close to running on empty nutritionally. Be sure to consult our Approved Dog Foods list to find the best foods you can feed your dog.
And store it according to instructions. A study from the National Institutes of Health, the biggest mistake people make is not paying attention to temperature warnings. The report states, “Room temperature was the most overlooked parameter during storage, and this may be a cause of concern because exposure to warmth can enhance rancidity, especially in diet formulations rich in fats and oils.”
Dog Treats Shelf Life
Dog treats expire too, and they also usually have a “best by” date. Some packaging even says things like, “Use within 30 days after opening.” Pay attention to that warning. Once you open the package and air hits the product, it begins to degrade. So, if an unopened bag of treats lists December 12, 2024, as its use by date and you open it on February 8, the “best by” date is no longer of interest. Use the same four to six weeks rule of thumb to decide when to toss any remaining treats.
It’s all about air and storage. If you’re using treats for training, always buy small packages because you want that reward for good behavior to be the very best. If you’re not using the treats for training, why are you buying them? You can make your own dog treats, too, including frozen ones and baked treats.
Dog Food Storage
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says proper storage of pet foods begins with an airtight container that’s clean and dry and has an airtight seal and in its original packing. It is important to have the lot number in case of a recall. (Opened wet food must be stored in the refrigerator; a few treats do, too, so always read the packaging.)
It’s easy to make mistakes when storing dog food. Always wash and dry the dog food container before putting another batch in, otherwise you risk the residue molding and contaminating the new food. Be sure it’s moisture-proof and airtight. Store the container out of the dog’s reach and, preferably, sight. Accidents happen when dogs get unsupervised access to storage containers.
Dogs are wonderful companions and the fact that a person is aging is not a valid reason to avoid getting a new dog. Credit: Alistair Berg | Getty Images
Many well-meaning people believe the best dogs for seniors are low-maintenance dog breeds that don’t require a lot of grooming or exercise. And, while there’s logic here, it’s not a fact cast in stone.
First, no one wants to be told, “You’re too old to own a dog.” I am 73 years old and have always owned Shelties, which are little dogs. When I recently fell in love with a Golden Retriever puppy, I was told, “You’re too old for a big dog.” What?
OK, there were times when I thought these well-meaning friends were right. Having three Shelties, a large puppy, and two knee replacements in the same year took some managing, but it was completely worth it. And, you may run into age prejudice when looking for a new dog, but if you put all the pieces in place – especially with the dog’s best future in mind – there’s no reason a senior person can’t have a dog. Dogs are wonderful companions.
To find the best dog for a senior, determine what the older adult can and cannot physically do. Older people who walk dogs do have an elevated risk of injury, according to a study on emergency department visits. But that doesn’t mean seniors must only have little dogs – I don’t!
Take your time when choosing and, if it’s possible, consider a foster-to-adopt situation from a reputable rescue organization. With a foster situation, you get to live with the dog and take your time deciding if this dog is a fit for you. This way, you don’t get stuck in a heartbreaking situation where the dog needs far more exercise or training than you can manage, and you don’t know what to do for him.
Breeds for Seniors
Certainly, natural dominant characteristics in each dog breed should be considered if you’re specifically looking for a low-maintenance dog breed or a low-energy dog. Most dog experts would agree, for example, that:
Terriers have lots of energy
Shelties bark a lot
Border Collies need a job
Brachycephalic dogs are at an increased risk for many illnesses
Labrador and Golden retrievers are sometimes quiet at home but come to life in the field
Mixed breeds can be the best or the worst of its varied lineage. For example, I have seen crazy and quiet Doodles.
But these are generalities. Each dog is an individual.
The best dog for a senior is one that fits with the person’s lifestyle in terms of the person’s daily activities and the dog’s level of required exercise and his temperament. Credit: LWA | Getty Images
If you’re determined to get a certain breed, researching the breed’s likely characteristics is important. If the desired dog is a puppy, talk with breeders. Each puppy is an individual. I do temperament tests for many breeders when their puppies are 49 days old. At this age, the pups have not yet been influenced by the outside world, but with feedback from the temperament tests, breeders can hopefully match a puppy to each new owner’s lifestyle.
Adopting a dog could be a match made in heaven, if you use a reputable rescue organization. If you’re not sure, talk with your veterinarian. Most good rescues foster incoming dogs so they can evaluate the dog and place it with owners who have a similar lifestyle. As a senior, you may not want a Border Collie or mix that needs a job and never seems to stop. This is the type of dog who puts a ball in your lap during every waking hour. You might, however, find a delightful dog in need of a home because his owner passed away.
If you’re looking for a dog who loves peaceful walks and napping at your feet – and are determined to get a specific breed – breeders often have older retired show dogs available for adoption. These dogs have lived busy lives and may be ready to settle down.
In both this circumstance and adopting a dog from a shelter, be sure to discuss a return policy if you and the dog aren’t well-suited after a specified time, such as 30 days. Finally, do not buy your puppy or adult dog from a pet shop or a puppy mill. Period.
Size Matters
Smaller dogs absolutely carry some advantages for seniors:
They don’t need as much exercise as a larger dog
Maintenance tends to be easier, just based on body size
They cost less, especially since they eat less
However, there are disadvantages:
If grandchildren often visit, a tiny dog can easily be hurt
Longhaired small dogs require regular grooming
Mini or standard, Poodles and Poodle mixes require regular and expensive hair cuts
If you’re determined to get a larger dog, you may find a nice Labrador who is happy to lay at your feet all day. But could you take him for a walk? Could you hold him if he saw a squirrel? Make a decision you can live with because being unable to physically handle a dog can lead to tragedy for you and for that dog.
Puppy Concerns
Do you want a puppy? OK. Remember that a puppy needs to be supervised 24/7 and crated during the brief periods you are not with him. Puppies may need to go out in the middle of the night. They must be pottied early in the morning, before bed, and about every hour or so in between until they are housebroken. Are you able to commit to that?
And, of course, puppies require frequent trips to the vet for vaccinations every few months. Do you have the financial means to do that?
Puppies have tons of energy. After a short nap, they are ready to go again. I like long naps, and I missed them when Rose, my Golden, was growing up. I would have to exhaust her and then hope she would sleep for an hour so I could get my nap in.
And those teeth! Baby teeth are so sharp. My husband has very thin skin, and he wound up with horrible bruising under the skin from our playful pup. I would yell “incoming” if the puppy was headed his way so he could get a toy for the pup to grab instead of his wrist. Ok, so maybe a puppy is just too much for us seniors.
Settling In
When you’ve chosen your dog and brought him home, don’t expect miracles the first few days or weeks. Give it lots of time. Let your dog come around on his own. He needs to get to know you and feel comfortable in his new home. If he is a rescue, no one truly knows what he has been through. He needs to learn to feel safe. With time and care, eventually he will love you. The belief is that rescues know they have been rescued and are forever thankful.
After your dog settles in, consider taking training lessons. Training is a must. You won’t want to live with a rude dog, and you won’t have many visitors if yours is obnoxious. (But maybe you don’t want a lot of visitors anyway!) Sure, you’ve trained dogs in the past, but not THIS dog. Classes will help you with your dog and will help you develop a relationship with your new friend.
A bonus to seniors owning a dog is that your furball will get you out of the recliner and out of the house. He wants to go for a walk, play a game, learn a trick, go for ice cream, visit the park, or enjoy a car ride. Training will allow you to do all these things. Even if he doesn’t mind staying home, you owe it to him to enrich his life with some outside activities.
Doggie daycare is a wonderful option for a dog that needs a little more exercise than you can give him. A morning or two a week of roughhousing with other dogs might be all he needs. Hire a dog walker if you are physically unable to walk your dog. When I had my knee surgery, my pup went back to the breeder for several weeks until I could exercise her again. I don’t know what I would have done without the breeder’s help.
The Future
Make sure that relatives and friends know that you have a dog should you wind up in the hospital unexpectedly. Also, it’s extremely important that you make sure your dog has a place to go when you pass. Every time I have surgery, I review with my friends and family who gets what dog if I don’t wake up. They think I’m silly, but I feel better knowing my dogs will be cared for if the worst happens.
Getting a dog can be one of the best decisions you have ever made as well. A dog provides love and companionship and can often fill an emptiness in a senior’s life. If you suddenly find yourself a senior – and believe me, it kind of creeps up on you – this article should help you make the best decision of your senior life.
According to my husband, a dog in his lap eliminates tension and brings down his blood pressure. I know that when I look at my two Shelties and Golden, I feel a calmness overtake me. I am ever so thankful for their presence. I wish the same for you.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
