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Is Garlic Good for Dogs?

By
Cindy Foley
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5
Garlic can be bad for dogs in high doses, or concentrations.
The safety of feeding garlic to dogs is highly dose dependent. Use caution if you choose to feed it. Credit: Barbara Rich | Getty Images

Garlic has health benefits for dogs. However, research shows garlic can damage your dog’s red blood cells when fed in inappropriate amounts. So, should you feed garlic to dogs?

“Garlic is a tricky one because when used topically and sprinkled over food, it is great for dogs,” says CJ Puotinen, a long-time Whole Dog Journal contributor and author of books on holistic pet care. “It fights ear infections, internal infections, boosts immune systems, and lowers blood sugar. But it also contains thiosulphate.” That’s the concern: Thiosulphate can damage red blood cells in dogs.

According to a 2000 study, dogs developed hemolytic anemia after receiving large amounts of garlic (administered intragastrically {1.25 ml/kg of body weight (5 g of whole garlic/kg)} once a day for 7 days). The study looked at several known/suspected toxic foods sometimes fed to dogs and determined: “It can be concluded that the best advice must surely be to give animal fodder or treats specifically developed for their diets.”

If Want to Feed Garlic to Your Dog

Many holistic veterinarians believe that feeding doses small amounts of garlic are not likely to pose problems for dogs. Be aware of iffy dosage recommendations: While a snippet of garlic may be OK for your dog, garlic powder is concentrated and dangerous for your dog.

Experts recommend feeding doses up to 1 small clove of garlic per 20 pounds of body weight per day are not likely to pose problems for dogs.

The Pet Poison Helpline says symptoms of garlic poisoning include:

  • Anemia
  • Lethargy
  • Pale gums
  • Increased heart rate
  • Increased respiratory rate
  • Weakness
  • Exercise intolerance
  • Gastric upset

Why Feed Garlic to Dogs at A

Why Feed Garlic to Dogs at All?

The purported benefits of feeding garlic to dogs may give you pause. For example, garlic is believed to combat high cholesterol in dogs. Maybe. But, if your dog is diagnosed with high cholesterol, you need to look at his diet. He’s probably eating too much fat. And a study from 2015 found garlic and onions can modify cancer risk.

“When used topically for wounds or ear infections, garlic is harmless,” says Puotinen. When your dog eats it, that’s different. Puotinen writes that many veterinarians who prescribe garlic for dogs with fleas recommend 1/2 clove of fresh raw crushed garlic per 15 to 20 pounds of body weight. Again, safe in moderation.

Garlic for Warding Off Fleas

When introducing garlic to your dog, start with smaller amounts and increase gradually. Garlic doesn’t kill fleas, so adding it to your dog’s diet won’t make an immediate difference, but after a month of daily garlic, your dog should be less attractive to fleas.

Of course, natural remedies like garlic for fleas are limited in their effectiveness. If your dog is at a low risk of contracting fleas, it might help (check that dosage with your veterinarian, first, however). But, if you live where flea populations are high, you may want to consider a monthly preventative to kill fleas who jump on your dog and ward off flea infestations, which are notoriously difficult to eradicate.

A Toxic Reaction Is an Emergency

If your dog ever gets into something, garlic or anything else, and you are worried about toxicity, don’t take a chance. Call a pet-poison hotline for direction (there may be a charge):

ASPCA Animal Poison Control: 888-426-4435

Pet Poison Helpline: 855-764-7661

Why Do Dogs Circle before Lying Down?

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Why dogs circle before they lay down is an unexplored mystery.
Although there are many theories, there hasn’t been much conclusive research done on why some dogs circle before laying down. Credit: Shirlyn Loo | Getty Images

Some people say dogs circle three times before lying down. Others say they only do it once. And still others say they don’t do it at all. So, what’s the truth about whether dogs turn in a circle before they lie down? And if they do, why do they do it?

Even renowned scientists and dog behaviorists don’t know for sure. Oddly enough, even though this is a very common canine behavior, there have been almost no formal research studies on the phenomenon. (There is, however, significant research on excessive and prolonged circling that’s related to canine obsessive-compulsive disorder and neurological issues. More on that later.)

Of course, none of this has stopped people from speculating on the reasons for this behavior. One theory is that it’s a holdover from the domestic dog’s wolf ancestors, who needed to check their surroundings for threats before settling down to sleep. Another idea is that dogs circle to chase away any pests that might be hiding in the weeds that would disturb their sleep. Others believe that it’s because dogs need to flatten tall grass and underbrush to make a comfortable “nest” for themselves and their pups.

Let’s take a look at each of these theories.

Looking for Dangers

Dr. Leslie Irvine, who researches the roles of animals in society and is the author of If You Tame Me: Understanding Our Connection With Animals, relates it to instinctive wolf behavior. “In the wild, the circling would flatten grasses or snow and would drive out any snakes or large insects.”  She also speculates that circling and flattening the area would have left a visible sign to other wolves that the territory was already claimed.

This circling action also may have enabled wolves to position themselves with their noses to the wind in order to quickly pick up on a scent that signaled a potential attack.  One other thought is that ancient dogs could have circled to look around and make sure all their pack members were accounted for before going to sleep.

Getting Comfortable

One reason the dog’s wild ancestors circled may have been to simply create a relatively flat, circular spot to lie in. In tall grass, circling could enable the wolf to pat down the area and scoop out any rocks or other uncomfortable objects with their paws to make a soft spot. Today, of course, most of our companion dogs have soft dog beds or blankets to lie on . . . but like so many instinctual behaviors, the impulse to circle remains.

The notion that dogs circle in order to get comfortable is supported by other animal experts, who are skeptical of the notion that scouting for threats and predators is the reason for this circling behavior. Behaviorist and veterinarian Dr. Christopher Pachel believes the behavior is most likely associated with preparing the ground for a comfortable resting spot. He adds that there could also be what he calls an “unwinding” aspect to circling, which dogs often display when they’re shifting from an awake state to a resting one.

This “nesting” instinct is supported by an experiment run by renowned dog behaviorist Dr. Stanley Coren. He discovered that when dogs are presented with a soft, uneven surface, they are much more likely to turn in circles before they lie down, and often scratch or paw at the material to arrange it to their liking. When are given a flat, smooth surface, far fewer dogs exhibited the circling behavior.

Controlling Body Temperature

After circling, many dogs choose to lie curled up rather than stretched out. This position helps them regulate their body temperatures and conserve heat around the core of their bodies, especially in cold climates. Many Huskies, for instance, curl into a ball to sleep in the snow to prevent heat from escaping; they usually tuck their noses between their hind legs and tails, and cover their faces with their bushy tails, which protects their noses from the cold and allows them to breathe in warm air. At the same time, other pack members will gather together in a tight circle to effectively share body heat.

Aligning with the Earth’s Magnetic Field

Chances are, this is something you didn’t realize (I certainly didn’t!), but studies have proven that under calm magnetic field conditions, at least 30 percent of dogs prefer to eliminate with their bodies aligned along the North–South axis. Why dogs choose to align with the earth’s geomagnetic field when eliminating remains a mystery: do they do it consciously because they can actually sense the magnetic field, or do they simply feel better or more comfortable when aligned to it? It has been posited that the same could be true of dogs’ circling behavior: a way to position their bodies in relation to the earth’s magnetic field. In fact, at certain times several species of mammals spontaneously align themselves with respect to the magnetic field lines, including grazing and resting cattle, roe deer and red deer, and hunting red foxes.

When Circling is a Problem

Usually, we find circling behavior simply curious and amusing, but there are times when circling can indicate serious problems. If you believe your dog is circling excessively or the behavior appears suddenly, becomes more pronounced, or shows up alongside other symptoms, consult a veterinarian.

A dog persistently walking in circles often signals a forebrain dysfunction, which can include brain tumor, stroke, brain inflammation such as encephalitis, or hydrocephalus (brain swelling from a buildup of cerebrospinal fluid).

Another cause of excessive circling can be canine peripheral vestibular disease, caused by lesions in the middle and inner ear that affect balance and can result in persistent circling. It can stem from ear infections, head trauma, tumors, or it may be idiopathic (having no identifiable cause). The idiopathic form is especially common in older dogs, hence the antiquated name, “old dog vestibular syndrome.” Today, however, we understand that this disease can occur at any age, so that term has been replaced by canine idiopathic vestibular disease.

Orthopedic disorders like arthritis, spinal cord, or back problems can also underlie excessive circling, since dogs in pain will often circle to find a more comfortable position.

Persistent circling has also been seen in dogs with obsessive-compulsive disorder, which is characterized by repetitive, exaggerated behaviors which interfere with normal, activities and functioning. The same is true for dogs with with Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS). As with human dementia, this is a condition related to the aging of the brain, and is most often seen in dogs nine years old and older. That being said, it’s important not to assume that your older dog’s behavioral changes such as repetitive circling are a result of CDS, since many dementia symptoms can be caused by other medical issues.

In the end, if your pup circles once, twice, or even three times before settling down for a nap, there’s no need to worry. We may not be able to explain exactly why they do it, but there’s no doubt that it’s very normal and predictable canine behavior.

How Will Pet Overpopulation Ever Get Solved?

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
Unplanned litters are a major strain on animal shelters.
Shelters are full of unplanned litters of puppies all over the country. What is being done in your area to reduce this tragic overpopulation? Credit: GeorgePeters, Getty Images

I was scrolling through social media one day when I saw a press release from a shelter that’s located in a nearby county:

AnimalSave, in partnership with the Center for Animal Protection and Education (CAPE) and Sammie’s Friends, is working to expand the number of low-cost spay and neuter appointments available to the Nevada County (CA) community. As a result, AnimalSave will be offering additional spay and neuter appointments through July, August, and September 2024, or until the current funding is exhausted.

My immediate response was jealousy, or perhaps it was envy. Three organizations—a lower-cost spay/neuter clinic (AnimalSave), a rescue and sanctuary group (CAPE), and the public shelter whose social media I follow (Sammie’s Friends), put together some funding to hire the additional staff required to increase the number of lower-cost spay/neuter surgeries that the clinic could perform on dogs and cats, and to offer lower-income owners vouchers that would reduce their cost of those surgeries (whether from AnimalSave or the owners’ regular veterinarians). I have to hand it to the folks responsible for this group effort to reduce the population of unwanted dogs and cats in their community. Why isn’t my local shelter doing something like that?

I often hear complaints from dog owners in my area that 1), It’s hard to get an appointment for spay/neuter at any of our local veterinary hospitals, waiting times are long, and 2), that these surgeries are prohibitively expensive—so much so, that many owners give up on the idea of birth control for their pets (and the inevitable unintended pregnancies and birth of unwanted litters occur).

Some communities are lucky to have lower-cost spay/neuter clinics available. Forty years ago, my sister married a veterinarian who specialized in opening clinics that provided only those services (and vaccinations). They referred sick animals to other practitioners and provided only high-quality, high-volume, spay/neuter services—and they were profitable, and the vets had reliable work schedules. (Veterinary school students, take note!) But my former brother-in-law retired ages ago and none of the practices he founded, or others like them, are anywhere near me.

Communities that have been successful in reducing the population of unwanted pets usually have employed various creative ways to increase the rate of spay/neuter of owned dogs and cats, as well as trapped/neutered/released feral cats. But in every community, this takes MONEY—for the establishment of facilities to do surgery and reliable staffing (or the regular engagement of mobile spay/neuter practices), and outreach to the community to let them know these services are available. Voucher programs that bring lower-cost services down even further, or to make these services free of cost altogether, might be needed to reach the very lowest-income population.

So why doesn’t my local shelter form partnerships that result in the reduction of unwanted puppies and kittens in our area? What it tends to come down to is a lack of personnel, paid or volunteer, to look for opportunities to apply for partnerships or grants. There are a number of organizations that offer grants to shelters or rescues that provide spay/neuter services— but my local shelter’s budget is too tight to employ someone to look for opportunities to reduce the need for sheltering and animal control services! It’s a Catch-22 that keeps the shelter full.

What is being done in your community to reduce shelter populations? Please share if you are involved in helping to reduce the overpopulation of dogs and cats.

Dog Eye Allergies vs. Infections

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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1
It can be tough to discern dog eye allergies vs infections, and time is not on your side.
Redness, crusting, and a thick discharge in your dog’s eye could indicate an eye infection like conjunctivitis. Credit: hugo1313 | Getty Images

You may notice your dog’s eyes look red, and there may be some discharge. He might be squinting. How do you know if this indicates allergies or an eye infection?

Deciding if your dog has an allergic eye reaction or if he is starting with an infection is difficult. Unfortunately, eye problems can go from minor to very serious very quickly. Generally, you can wait overnight, but it is much better to err on the side of caution and schedule a veterinary visit as soon as possible.

Allergic Dog Eye Symptoms

The discharge from your dog’s eyes will vary with allergies versus infections. With allergies, squinting is not common. The usual signs include:

  • Clear, liquid discharge
  • Red, inflamed conjunctiva
  • Rubbing his eyes with his paws or his face along the carpet or grass
  • Both eyes affected
  • Possible clear nasal discharge
  • Dog may sneeze

Allergies tend to be seasonal, just like in people, so think spring and fall for the big allergy seasons. Remember, however, that dogs can also suffer from nonseasonal allergies such as food, medications, and contact allergies, including from things like laundry detergent and household cleaners.

“In my clinical experience, allergic conjunctivitis is characterized initially by significant pruritus (itching) directed at the eyelids and periocular skin, often resulting in alopecia (hair loss), skin ulceration, eyelid swelling and chemosis (swelling of the conjunctiva),” says Thomas J. Kern, DVM, associate professor of ophthalmology at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. “Secondary chemosis and mucopurulent discharge due to secondary bacterial infection often accompany these other signs. Affected animals may have generalized cutaneous signs or signs may be localized to around the eyes.”

Infected Dog Eye Symptoms

Eye infections like pink eye tend to be painful. Your dog may resist if you try to clean them or look at them closely. With infections, especially if secondary to trauma, only one eye may be affected. Signs of an infected eye in a dog include:

  • Discharge is most likely to be mucoid, thick, and purulent (puslike), although it can be clear, gray, green, or yellow
  • Red, swollen, and inflamed conjunctiva
  • Dried crusts on the dog’s eyelashes
  • Dog may squint and avoid bright light, particularly if the cornea is damaged
  • He may rub his eyes, or his face just like with allergies

Causes of an Infected Eye in Dogs

Ocular infections can be caused by many things, often with associated damaged to the conjunctiva or cornea. Once those protective barriers are broken by trauma or foreign bodies, the tissues are ripe for bacterial invasion. Ocular viral infections are often a result of viral respiratory problems. Something as simple as shampoo on your dog’s cornea can lead to an infection and corneal damage. (Think how it stings if you get shampoo in your eye!) Eyelash and eyelid problems, like entropion and ectropion, may cause corneal irritation and lead to infection.

Dog Eye Discharge Diagnosis

If your dog has a veterinary appointment, do not clean his eyes before the visit. Your veterinarian may want to do swab the discharge to look for bacteria and other pathogenic organisms. A sterile swab of the discharge and any conjunctival fluids will look for bacteria, organisms like chlamydia, and cells associated with allergies such as eosinophils or infection like neutrophils.

A careful history is important, especially if you have changed anything in your household such as detergents and cleaners or switched to a new food. Your dog’s eyes will be looked at with a variety of ophthalmic instruments, including a slit lamp and an ophthalmoscope. If there is concern about glaucoma, a tonometer will be used to measure intraocular pressures.

An additional diagnostic test is the use of a fluorescein stain to evaluate the integrity of the cornea. First, a drop of local anesthetic may be put in, especially if the eye is painful, then the stain. As tears wash the excess stain away, any scratches or injuries to the cornea will remain bright green. Don’t be surprised if your dog’s nose drips some brightly stained liquid, too!

Your veterinarian will also do a Schirmer tear test to make sure your dog is producing enough tears to protect the cornea. Keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or dry eye, makes your dog susceptible to corneal damage.

Dog Eye Discharge Treatment

Treatment will be based on what your veterinarian finds. For allergic conditions, a corticosteroid or immune-suppressant medication is often recommended, e.g., cyclosporin or prednisolone. Your dog may require systemic medications in addition to eye ointment or drops if he has whole-body allergic symptoms.

Some antiviral eye medications can be used for cases associated with viral infections. Antibacterial medications will be based on what is identified via the conjunctival swab if possible. Atropine drops or ointment may be dispensed to help with pain control if your dog’s eye is painful as evidenced by frequent blinking or squinting. A word of caution: If your dog gets any atropine in his mouth, he may foam a bit as it seems to taste bitter.

Many medications come in both ointment and drop formulations. Which works better often depends on your ability to medicate your dog. Drops can be easier in many cases, as you simply “drop” in the dose from above while gently restraining your dog’s head. Ointments work best if you can gently pull the lower lid down a tad, so the ointment goes into the “shelf” provided.

Drops generally require more frequent dosing than ointments, which could be a problem if your work schedule keeps you away from home. Also, if your dog resists having his head restrained, less frequent treatments might be easier. Dogs tend to be more resistant when the eye is most painful. Many dogs on chronic eye medications, such as for pannus, are good about their daily treatments.

Clearly, the sooner you catch an eye problem, the sooner treatment can begin to prevent any permanent scarring or damage to vision. Untreated, problems like an eye ulcer can leave your dog with damaged eyesight.

Use Your Words: Communicating with Dogs

By
Cindy Foley
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A dog understands more of the spoken word than we might initially think.
Most trainers use the verbal word “down” and a hand gesture to teach a dog to lie down, but a recent study is pointing toward more emphasis on the dog’s ability to understand the spoken word. Credit: Zbynek Pospisil

A study published in PLOS One on August 28  proved that dogs can recognize, comprehend, and respond to words from soundboards. The results open up a world of opportunities for expanding our ability to communicate with our dogs.

The researchers, from the University of California at San Diego, put together a carefully constructed study to determine if dogs can understand words like “play” and “outside” when the words come from a soundboard without any other clues. (In case you weren’t aware, canine talking buttons, or soundboards, are hot right now!) And, yes, the dogs in the study clearly demonstrated that they understood what the word meant.

Before your skeptical brain starts to think, “Well, sure, my dog knows what ‘sit’ means,” you should know that the researchers worked hard to ensure there were no other things involved, like the all-important aspect of body language (more on that below). And the researchers used two similar studies, both involving the same strict parameters and methods, to reach their conclusion. One of the studies was done by the researchers and the other by “citizen scientists” at home.

“This study addresses public skepticism about whether dogs truly understand what the buttons mean,” says Federico Rossano in an an interview on Science Daily.  “Our findings are important because they show that words matter to dogs, and that they respond to the words themselves, not just to associated cues.” Rossano is a cognitive science associate professor at UC San Diego, the head of the Comparative Cognition Lab, and one of the study authors. (You may have seen Rossano on Netflix in “Inside the Mind of a Dog.”)

“Pet dogs can be successfully taught by their owners to associate words recorded onto soundboard buttons to their outcomes in the real world,” wrote the researchers, “and they respond appropriately to these words even when they are presented in the absence of any other cues, such as the owner’s body language.”

What about body language? In a 2017 study from the University of Naples, researchers proved that dogs respond to both words and body language. They determined that the fastest reactions were when both methods of communication were used at the same time. Not surprising. What’s fascinating, though, is that the researchers learned that if the dogs received conflicting information (as in the body language indicated one thing and the words something else), the dogs responded to the cue from the body language. In a nutshell, if your dog isn’t sure what you mean, he is going to follow the communication from your body. This is huge information for anyone who trains dogs!

The body language aspect is also why it was important in the soundboard study that the researchers ensured no physical cues were used. The researchers hope to expand the study to determine if dogs and humans can have “two-way interspecies communication” using the soundboard. I find the idea exciting—and maybe just a little scary.

I can testify that my agility dogs are very verbal, and I use a lot of words when training. One of the first things the dogs figure out is that “Yes!” means they did something right and a treat is headed their way. And heaven knows that my baby dog is aware that “hush,” even shouted from across the room, means stop barking. (Thank goodness, as she does like to bark.) I’m a little concerned, though, if I give them access to a soundboard what words they may choose to share with me.

Dog Paw and Claw Problems

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Unhealthy dog paws can cause excessive licking as well as a variety of other problems.
: If your dog is chewing or licking his paw, inspect the dog’s nails and his paw to figure out why. If you find a problem, early treatment is best. Credit: Cavan Images | Getty Images

Proper care of your dog’s nails and following treatment instructions for any injuries can help keep your dog on the run and allow problems to heal faster. If you and your dog participate in dog sports requiring speed, injuries are more likely, and 19% of those injuries occur in the paw or claw.

Some dog paw problems focus around the dog’s nails, or claws. Note: A dog’s nails are technically “claws” because they are pointed, curved, and grow out of the end of an appendage. Nails are flatter and more rounded and grow over the end of the appendage. We will use both terms in this piece, however, because “dog nails” is the more common term.

Unhealthy Dog Nails

Regular trimming of your dog’s nails can prevent some problems and promote normal body stance and movement.

  • Overgrown claws. If your dog’s claws are too long, they change the way he stands and walks. Ideally, your dog’s nails should be short and close to the paw, so that they can be used to grip when needed but don’t get in the way the rest of the time. Some dogs wear their claws down naturally, but many require weekly nail trims to obtain ideal nail length.
  • Broken claws. If your dog catches her nail on something, it can break. If the break occurs in the keratinized portion of the claw, it will not hurt. But if it affects the “quick,” which has blood vessels and nerves in it, it will both hurt and bleed. Broken claws are more likely to occur if your dog has long claws that are not trimmed regularly. In some cases, you may be able to trim the broken claw yourself, but if it is bleeding or painful you may need a veterinary appointment for removal under sedation.
  • Ingrown claws. Untrimmed claws continue to grow and may eventually curl under and into the paw. This is painful, and the resulting wound is susceptible to infection. If your dog’s nails tend to curl (we’re looking at you, Pugs and Beagles), keep on top of regular nail trims. An ingrown claw will require a vet appointment to potentially trim the nail and clean the wound under sedation, plus prescribe antibiotics to resolve any infection that may be present.
  • Infected claws. Dog nails can become infected by yeast or bacteria. You may notice that your dog’s paws smell weird, and that the texture of the claws has changed. Infected nails may appear bloody, greasy, discolored, or feel soft when you try to trim them.
  • Symmetrical lupoid onychodystrophy (SLO). This is an autoimmune disease that causes inflammation of the claw bed, which in turn leads to abnormal claws. Dogs with SLO often have sore, painful paws, and the claws frequently fall off and grow back with an abnormal shape or texture. This condition will require long-term medications and management to keep your dog comfortable.

Unhealthy Dog Paws

Claw problems aren’t the only things that may go wrong with your dog’s feet. Some potential dog-paw problems include:

  • Run off pads. Active dogs who like to run over hard surfaces such as asphalt, cement, rocks, or hard-packed dirt can damage the thick pads on the bottom of their paws. The friction between the paw and the ground causes the pad layer to separate from the sensitive underlying tissues. While this is not a dire situation, it is painful. Your dog will need to rest while the weak spots in the pad(s) heal and may need pain meds or antibiotics from your veterinarian.
  • Longhaired dogs seem to love to get things stuck in the hair between their toes, which can cause uncomfortable knots to develop. Carefully clip existing mats to relieve discomfort. Prevent future mats by keeping the hair on your dog’s feet trimmed.
  • Yeast and bacterial infections. Dog paws can be an ideal spot for microbial infections. Common signs include a characteristic “corn chip” odor, oozy or flakey skin on the paws, and licking or chewing. Your veterinarian will do a skin scrape to determine the cause of the infection and treat it with appropriate topical or systemic medications.
  • Dogs with allergies—especially environmental allergies—often get itchy feet. You will notice your dog constantly licking and chewing his paws, and the characteristic dark rusty staining of the hair from all the licking. Some dogs may feel better with just Benadryl, but many may need prescription meds such as Apoquel, Cytopoint, or allergy injections to quell the itch. Some dogs have seasonal allergies, while others experience symptoms year-round.
  • Paw lacerations. A cut paw hurts! Your dog will limp, and bleeding may seem excessive because of the many blood vessels in the paw. Initiate first aid by applying pressure to stop bleeding, then call your veterinarian to get the wound cleaned and some antibiotics.
  • Broken toes. Dogs can break their toes in many ways, even by getting a toe stuck in a crate door or by being stepped on. Most of these fractures can heal on their own with strict rest. If the bone heals poorly or continues to bother your dog, amputation may be the best choice. Dogs do fine with a missing toe or two.
  • Sarcoptic mange. The mites that cause sarcoptic mange like to live in dogs’ skin, and they cause an extreme itch along with red, irritated skin. Your vet can check for mange with the same skin scrape that checks for bacterial and fungal infections. Thankfully, sarcoptic mange can be treated with many of the same medications that we use to prevent fleas and ticks.
  • Keratin overgrowth. While most common in brachycephalic breeds such as Boxers or Bulldogs, some dogs have excessive growth of the hard keratin on their paw pads. Instead of being smooth with a slight cobblestone pattern, these dogs have long thin projections all over the paw pads. This condition is not usually painful but can impact how your dog walks. Excess keratin can be trimmed back by your veterinarian.
  • Interdigital furunculosis. This condition is most common in short-haired breeds such as Bulldogs and may be referred to as interdigital cysts, although the bumps are not true cysts. Interdigital furunculosis is when the hair follicles on the paw become inflamed, resulting in painful swelling on or between the toes. This condition is often related to allergies, and it can predispose the dog to deep bacterial infections in the paw that require long treatment courses with antibiotics.
  • Pemphigus foliaceus. This is an autoimmune disease that causes crusts, sores, and severe irritation on the paws. Dogs with pemphigus foliaceus may also have secondary yeast or bacterial infections, which make their paws even more uncomfortable. Your veterinarian will treat any infections directly and address the pemphigus with an immunosuppressive medication.
  • Squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma are two common cancers that can develop on dogs’ paws. If you notice a growth on your dog’s paw—especially if it is growing rapidly—schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible.

Bottom Line

Truly unhealthy dog paws and unhealthy dog claws are not common, but they can be painful. Set your dog up for success by trimming his claws regularly and checking his paws any time you notice lameness or excessive licking and chewing.

How To Entertain Your Dog at Home

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Knowing how to entertain your dog at home whether you're working or on a rainy is an important life skill.
Being together in the house usually isn’t enough to keep a dog entertained. Credit: AleksandarNakic | Getty Images

It can be a challenge to figure out what to do to keep a dog happy and engaged when you—and the dog—are stuck at home. For me, the thing that most often keeps me house-bound during the day is work. However, work hours mean very little to my young, extremely energetic dog. While I’m fixated on my computer screen, she’s hanging around getting bored. She’s learning the self-discipline to wait until it’s time to do something fun, but too much boredom ends with her getting frustrated and then finding some (usually undesirable) way to entertain herself.

We also live in an area that gets scorchingly hot during the summer. The pavement is often a burn hazard and, even with dog shoes, the temperature can make it unsafe for us to do much outdoors after about 10 a.m. Once again, this leads to sitting in the house with a bored dog who just want to do something fun. Fortunately, there are a lot of quick and relatively simple ways to entertain a dog at home.

Exercise: A Great Enrichment Activity for Dogs

Getting a good workout without being able to go outside isn’t always easy, but it can be done. If you live in an apartment building with hallways or a house with enough space, grab the leash and go on an indoor walk. It may feel silly, but being able to move will help keep your dog entertained. If possible, consider hiding treats or toys around the house for him to sniff out while you walk.

Exercises like puppy pushups are also a good option for burning off some excess energy without leaving the house. They can also be done in shorter sessions during work breaks. A popular training class exercise, puppy pushups are not only a physical workout but will help sharpen up basic cues as well. For those not already familiar, here are the steps to complete a puppy pushup:

  1. Make sure you have a reward on hand such as treats or a favorite toy.
  2. Cue your dog to sit.
  3. As soon as he sits, cue him to lay down.
  4. When his belly touches the floor, cue him to sit again.
  5. Cue a stand.
  6. Ask for one more sit.
  7. Reward and repeat.
  8. Bonus: For an added bit of fun, you can turn on some music and give the cues in time with the beat.

In addition to puppy pushups, I regularly set up obstacle courses around the house for my dog. I typically use plastic cones and bars to create low jumps and run agility tunnels down the hallway, but it doesn’t have to be that complicated. Even asking your dog to do figure-eights around a couple of chairs and crawl under a broom propped between the couch and coffee table can be good fun and good exercise. The trick with indoor obstacle courses is to build them with an eye toward safety. If your dog will be running or jumping inside, make sure he won’t encounter any slippery surfaces and isn’t in danger of crashing into anything if he jumps too enthusiastically or can’t slow down quickly.

As always with exercise, make sure your dog is physically capable of the activity before asking him to participate. If you aren’t sure your dog is up for a particular type of exercise, check with your veterinarian.

How To Entertain Your Dog at Home with Games

Whether it’s a simple game of tug or a more elaborate round of find-it, playing with your dog is one of the best ways to keep them entertained when stuck in the house. There are so many good games to play with your dog indoors. Some of my favorites include:

  • Hide-and-seek: Sneak away when your dog isn’t looking, find a hiding spot, then call him enthusiastically. When he comes to find you, praise him and reward him with a treat or toy. If your dog hasn’t played before, pick easy hiding spots to start—such as stepping out of the room just beyond view. Gradually increase the difficulty as he begins to understand the game.
  • Find it: Start by hiding a treat in the palm of one hand, close both hands, and hold them out to your dog. When he noses the hand with the treat in it, praise him and let him have the treat. From there, make it more challenging by hiding a treat under a cup and letting him search for it among several similar cups.
  • Tug: While little explanation is needed for how to play—human and dog each grab one end of a toy and pull—there are few rules to keep the game from getting out of hand. Most importantly, tug is an ‘invitation only’ game. Your dog should understand that it’s only okay to tug on things when you initiate it. He should also have a solid ‘release’ cue and let go of the toy the moment you ask. As for health and safety considerations, tugging should always be done sideways, not up-and-down, to help prevent spinal injuries and should be kept gentle for puppies, elderly dogs, or those with relevant medical conditions. For more on how to safely set up a game of tug, see “Eight Rules for Playing Tug of War With Your Dog.”

Mentally Stimulating Toys for Dogs

Interactive puzzle toys are a great way to provide some mental stimulation for your dog without leaving the house. While such toys often require supervision and assistance (particularly if the dog is inexperienced with puzzles), most dogs find a good mental workout to be rewarding—and exhausting! As discussed in “The Best Dog Puzzle Toys,” it may take a few tries with different toys to figure out the right difficulty level for your dog.

Similarly, snuffle mats, lick mats, and other food dispensing toys can very useful methods of doggy entertainment. My young terrier will happily spend up to 20 minutes engaged with her snuffle mat. If I have a meeting or just need some time without her “help” writing articles, I’ll set the mat out next to my desk and fill it with half a cup or so of her dry kibble. As a bonus, she often falls asleep after she’s done.

Don’t Forget About Dog Training at Home

Whether you are working from home or just stuck indoors with a bored dog, a few quick training sessions throughout the day can go a long way to entertaining your dog (and you!). A good session doesn’t need to be longer than 5 or 10 minutes to be effective. A short round of heelwork down the hallway or down-stays during lunch can make a big difference in both training progress and preventing boredom at home.

Online dog training classes are another way to keep engaged and discover new ways to work with your dog if leaving the house isn’t a good option. I spent the last heatwave teaching my dog to walk with me—her front feet on top of my feet—with the help of an online tricks class. It was great fun for us both and resulted in a really cute behavior.

As always when it comes to training, don’t forget to have fun! If the usual routine is feeling dull, consider teaching your dog a new trick.

Is Popcorn Bad for Dogs?

By
Cindy Foley
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0
Popcorn isn't necessarily bad for dogs, but it's not good for them either.
While that popcorn looks yummy to your dog, it may not be the best choice for him. Credit: Vladans | Getty Images

While many dogs have grabbed a stray piece of popcorn and lived to tell the tale, not all popcorn is safe for dogs. If you want to share popcorn with your dog, choose a few pieces of plain—no flavors or salts—popcorn that is air-popped (put away that “fun to make” greasy Jiffy Pop!).

And, as we all know (but often prefer to ignore), most brands of popcorn include a lot of salt and fat. Your dog does not need salt or fat in his diet. And no caramel popcorn! That stuff is basically sugar- and butter-coated popcorn (humans probably shouldn’t eat it either!).

Do Not Overfeed Popcorn to Your Dog

Overfeeding popcorn can give your dog stomach upset and, if fed regularly, can contribute to weight gain and obesity. The kernels can become lodged in your dog’s teeth and irritate the gums (be sure you brush your dog’s teeth).

While popcorn has fiber, it’s not what your dog needs.  If your dog needs added fiber due to loose stools, plain canned pumpkin is a much better way to go.

What Is Safe Popcorn for Dogs?

The rules for sharing popcorn with your dog are simple:

  • Air-popped popcorn only
  • No seasonings, salt, or fat in the popcorn
  • Check the ingredients list for xylitol (also known as birch sugar), which is deadly to dogs
  • Feed only in moderation—a couple of pieces are plenty

Healthy Alternatives to Popcorn for Dogs

Many dogs just want to eat what we’re eating, and, while we’ve trained them (hopefully!) not to beg, those soft beautiful eyes can pull at our heartstrings. If you want to toss your dog a healthy treat while you munch on caramel popcorn, consider giving him a few apple slices, part of a carrot (baby carrots are a delight!), or a couple of frozen green beans. These are healthy treats for dogs.

For training your dog, be sure you reach for the high-value, extra yummy treats like plain chicken or unseasoned beef or a commercial tasty treat. Even plain air-popped popcorn isn’t as big a reward and incentive to work as a piece of chicken!

Causes of Puppy Bad Breath

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
The main cause of puppy bad breath is their diet of mother's milk.
Puppy bad breath often disappears by the time the pup is 6 months old and eating regular food. Credit: Infinityyy | Getty Images

Many people love the unique smell of puppy breath (myself included). Young puppies, especially in the first 4 months of life, have a particular aroma to their breath that is different from an adult dog’s breath. This smell usually fades by the time they turn 6 months old. But why does puppy breath smell bad?

We don’t really know why young puppies have such distinctive breath. The top theory is that it happens because these little guys are either only consuming milk or have only recently started eating solid food. The milk that they get from their mother could contribute to the aroma of puppy breath.

Other Reasons Puppy Breath Smells Bad

If your puppy truly does have bad breath, consider these potential causes:

  1. Eating poop. You read that right. Sometimes our puppies get confused as they are learning about solid food and eat their own or their siblings’ feces. The best way to resolve this behavior and stop it from becoming a habit is to pick up poop immediately so it isn’t available.
  2. Sometimes puppies can get bad breath as their deciduous teeth fall out and the permanent teeth erupt through their gums. Teething usually occurs around four to six months of age. Not every puppy will get bad breath during teething, but if your pup is in that age range, that could be the issue.
  3. Something is stuck in the puppy’s mouth. If your puppy gets a piece of food or a toy stuck in his teeth, over time it will rot and build up bacteria, resulting in a rancid odor. Be sure to check the roof of your puppy’s mouth for a fragment of a stick or toy stuck sideways. If you can’t get the offending item free, schedule a veterinary appointment.
  4. Dental disease. It is unusual for young puppies to have periodontal disease, but it is possible. Generally, puppies haven’t had the chance to build up the bacteria and calculus that cause dental disease and bad breath. Still, check to see if your puppy’s gums are red or bleeding, or if he has a broken tooth. You may also notice him pawing at his mouth or only chewing food on one side. If you think your puppy may have dental disease, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to come up with a treatment plan.

How to Freshen Puppy Breath

As long as your puppy doesn’t have an underlying medical issue causing bad breath, you can help keep his puppy kisses pleasant by introducing tooth brushing. Choose an enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs. Your veterinarian may even have some free samples you can try.

For puppies who still have their baby teeth or who are teething, just let your puppy lick the toothpaste off a toothbrush once a day. This helps to build a positive association with the toothbrush, plus the enzymes in the toothpaste help prevent plaque from building up on the teeth. (Did you know PetSmile is the only canine toothpaste approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council?)

You can start brushing your puppy’s teeth once he has stopped teething and has all his adult teeth. Start gradually by just touching the brush to one tooth a night, then build up over time. The American Veterinary Medical Association has a good video on how to brush your dog’s teeth.

If you’re not sure if your puppy’s breath is normal puppy breath, drop in to your veterinary clinic and offer puppy cuddles to staff members who love puppy breath. They can tell you how your puppy’s breath measures up, and if they say it isn’t normal, you can schedule an appointment right then.

“Save Me! I Have Only a Day To Live!”

By
Nancy Kerns
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5
Adopting a dog is a big decision, and it can't be made out of guilt or shame.
Shelters that use time-sensitive pleas to “save this dog’s life!” in order to shame or guilt people into making inappropriate adoption decisions should be avoided. It’s important to make good adoptions, not just shuffle dogs hastily hoping that things will work out. Credit: Anita Kot, Getty Images

As you have probably gleaned, I’m a big proponent of adopting dogs from shelters or rescues whenever possible. Every type of dog exists in a shelter somewhere, and no matter how long and specific the list of attributes you require in a dog may be, if you are patient and look long and hard enough, you can find a dog with those traits in a shelter or rescue group somewhere. Looking for an apricot-colored adult female Poodle? A young male German Wirehaired Pointer? If you are patient, you will find several candidates to choose from.

I know that there are some people who just really want a purebred puppy, I would not begrudge that experience for anyone. But if someone is looking for a young or adult dog of a certain breed, or is flexible about what breed of dog or puppy they want, I feel confident that they could find a candidate in a shelter—even if it turns out to be a shelter that’s sort of far from where they live.  It’s not a problem we experience here in northern California—our shelters are packed to the roof!—but I’ve heard that there are parts of the country with relatively few dogs in the shelters.

However, there is one tactic that shelters and rescues sometimes take in an effort to place the dogs in their care that will automatically make me refuse to consider or promote that source: the high-pressure, life-or-death, “Fluffy only has 24 hours to live . . . unless you save him TODAY” sort of appeal.

It’s possible that shelters or rescues who take this tack actually place some of those dogs—but it’s also highly likely that people do desperate things in order to “save” those dogs, and some of them are not in the best interests of themselves or, often, the dogs! Overburdened rescue groups press their members to the breaking point to take “just one more,” past the point that they can truly afford or have time to care for. Dogs get shuffled from one temporary foster home to another, sometimes risking the spread of disease or parasites—and sometimes risking fights and injuries to the dogs in foster providers’ homes!

It’s not fair to anyone, especially exhausted experienced rescue volunteers and naïve newbie volunteers who have no idea of what they might be getting themselves into, when these “life or death,” “ticking clock” threats are made in order to place dogs. These tactics are more likely to make people who care the most feel the worst—and I daresay they don’t make people who care the least care even one bit more. In my experience, the bulk of the emotional punishment of these social media pleas falls on the people who are already doing something to help a rescue or shelter.

Here is a post that describes all of the bad things that can result when shelters use social media to try to place dogs with a “euthanasia list” plea. If you’re involved with a shelter or rescue group that has taken this tack, please read the post and reconsider.

Dog Ear Muffs Provide Hearing Protection

By
Dan Muse
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0
Dog ear muffs protect against more than cold weather. They also
Photo caption: The right dog ear muff fits your dog comfortably. If it doesn’t, he will get it off. It must also muffle the ear canal or it won’t do any good. Photo credit: smrm1977 | Getty Images

Hearing protection for your dog? Of course! We want our dogs to live their best lives, so we dwell on their diet, their vaccinations, their teeth, their vision . . . and we should think about hearing, too. Hearing loss can happen due to constant exposure to loud noise, just as it can with humans. Ear muffs for dogs can also provide comfort to noise-sensitive dogs, like the ones who can’t handle a thunderstorm, fireworks, the vacuum, or a barrage of sirens in the area. A 2021 study in Frontiers in Veterinary Science found that sudden loud noises are the most common trigger for fearful behavior in dogs. Clearly, these dogs need our help.

Noise-induced hearing loss happens when the delicate structures of a dog’s middle and inner ear are harmed by loud noises. In medical terms, “The stereocilia are specialized hair cells in the dog’s cochlea that vibrate in response to sound waves, which can get damaged from loud noises,” says Paola Cuevas, a veterinarian, MVZ, and behaviorist. Once damaged, these sensory cells are unable to send signals to the dog’s brain, resulting in hearing loss. “The eardrum or tympanic membrane as well as the inner ear’s ossicles can also get damaged with extreme and repeated percussion noise.”

In addition to concerns about hearing loss are the dogs who are afraid of loud noises. These dogs find holidays like the Fourth of July almost unbearable. “Noise sensitivity is a very common cause of anxiety in dogs. It can present signs such as pacing, shaking, hiding, and sometimes getting lost or even destructive behavior,” says Dr Cuevas. For additional information on noise-induced anxiety in your dog, consider enrolling in our online course “Dogs and Noise Anxiety.” A noise-muffling ear muff can go a long ways toward helping these dogs.

The Rise of Dog Ear Muffs

Recognizing the need for hearing protection and muffling loud noises for dogs, several manufacturers developed a range of ear muffs specifically designed for dogs. These products are typically made from soft, comfortable materials and feature adjustable straps to ensure a secure fit. In 2013, a study published in Radiology looked at Mutt Muffs to block the sound of an MRI (if you ever had one, you know how noisy they are!) and found that Mutt Muffs helped block the noise and prevented repeat scans caused by the dog not holding still.

How Dog Ear Muffs Work

Dog ear muffs operate on a similar principle to human ear protection. They create a barrier between the dog’s ears and the external noise, reducing the sound intensity that reaches the inner ear. While they may not eliminate all noise, they can significantly dampen loud sounds, providing relief and protection for your pet. “It is worth checking out the military-grade products such as Canine Auditory Protection System (CAPS), new military-designed approach to hearing protection that combines effective noise reduction with comfort and the ability to maintain communication,” says Dr. Cuevas. “Repeated exposure to loud noises not only contributes to anxiety but also can result in progressive hearing loss.”

Choosing the Right Dog Ear Muffs

There’s no shortage of products to choose from both online and in pet stores. Below is a sampling of some of the leading ear-protection products available.

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Mutt Muffs

  • Key Features: Soft, comfortable materials, adjustable straps, high noise reduction rating, variety of colors and sizes.
  • Price: $60 to $80.

Rex Specs Ear Pro

  • Key Features: Durable construction, high noise reduction rating, adjustable straps, available in multiple colors.
  • Price: $70 to $100.

PuroPup

  • Key Features: Stylish design, comfortable fit, adjustable straps, high noise reduction rating.
  • Price: $40 to $60.

Woofworks

  • Key Features: Lightweight, breathable materials, adjustable straps, effective noise reduction.
  • Price: $30 to $50.

DerYEP

  • Key Features: Affordable option, decent noise reduction, adjustable straps.
  • Price: $30-$50.

Custom-Molded Earplugs

For dogs with unique ear shapes or sensitivities, custom-molded earplugs can provide a more personalized and comfortable fit. Ask your veterinarian about how to get these made for your dog. And, in general, consult with your veterinarian to determine the best ear protection option for your pet.

While we lean toward Mutt Muffs as our first pick, your choice in a dog ear muff to help protect your dog’s hearing and/or muffle scary noises depends widely on your individual dog. Fit is everything (think about your own ear mufflers for mowing the lawn—if they drive you crazy, you won’t wear them). Read the manufacturer’s description, note the measurements of the device compared to your dog’s size, the product adjustability, and the manufacturer’s advice on fit. If needed, call the company’s customer service. You can also get your veterinarian’s advice, as he or she may have experience with various devices.

Hearing Aids

For dogs who have already suffered hearing loss, a hearing aid might help, but it must be custom fit for each dog to the tune of $3,000 or more. The FETCHLab at the University of Cincinnati makes hearing aids made for dogs. Your dog will need to be trained to wear the hearing aid. Note: Hearing aids won’t work for dogs who have lost all hearing. Hearing aids work by amplifying sound, but if your dog has congenital deafness there is no residual hearing left to amplify. Another method to consider for a deaf dog is a vibration collar. Read more in “Do They Make Hearing Aids for Dogs.”

Why Your Dog Needs Hearing Protection

Canines have a much wider hearing range than humans and can hear in an approximate range of 67,000 herz (Hz) to 65,000 Hz, while we can detect only up to 23,000 Hz. Dogs can hear things we can’t, and they can pinpoint the precise location of sounds.

This impressive sense of hearing comes a price. Cuevas says dog ears can easily be damaged at noise levels above 85 decibels, which is easily exceeded by everyday household noises such as a vacuum or even a screaming child. Attenuating noises with ear protection can make the difference between suffering irreparable damage leading to hearing loss and even deafness, which leaves them even more exposed to other dangers in the environment. However, noise-induced hearing loss in dogs is preventable with hearing protection.

Dogs who spend time in an environment with loud percussion noises definitively need ear protection or ear muffs. “Police dogs, service dogs, military dogs, search and rescue dogs, and dogs guarding construction sites are all very susceptible to suffering from noise-induced hearing loss and will need to have some ear protection,” says Cuevas.

Beyond the dogs trained for specific functions, any dog can experience hearing loss due to prolonged exposure to loud noises common in everyday life—from the bang of fireworks to the roar of a jet engine—can have an impact.

Given how much more acute dogs hearing is compared to ours,  their sensitive ears can be overwhelmed. While any loud noise can potentially cause damage, be especially cautious in these scenarios:

  • Air travel: The noise levels in airplane cabins can be harmful to a dog’s hearing.
  • Outdoor events: Concerts, sporting events, and other loud gatherings can be overwhelming for dogs.
  • Construction sites: Exposure to heavy machinery and construction noise can damage a dog’s hearing.

Warning Signs Of Hearing Loss In Your Dog

How do you know if your dog may be experiencing hearing loss? Kari Foss, a veterinary neurologist and professor of veterinary clinical medicine at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, lists these warning signs:

  • Failing to respond when called
  • Sleeping through sounds that normally would rouse them.
  • Startling at loud noises that previously didn’t bother them.
  • Barking excessively or making unusual vocal sounds.

Foss added that dogs with deafness in one ear might respond to commands but could have difficulty locating the source of a sound.

Is Your Puppy Ruining Your Family Dinners?

By
Kathy Callahan
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0
Puppy begging is adorable, but it is a problem behavior.
Don’t despair if your puppy seems to need your attention the most the moment that it’s time to sit down and share a meal with your family! You can meet his needs, and your own, by following this plan. Credit: David Petrus Ibars, Getty Images

The other day, a client reached out because her new puppy was a nightmare whenever the family sat down to dinner. The first few nights, he was jumping up, grabbing napkins, and sinking sharp puppy teeth into the nearest human appendage. After that, they tried crating him, but he barked, nonstop, at the top of his lungs.

The owner was at her wit’s end—a common place to be during puppyhood—saying, “We need to be able to eat in peace!”  She had read that she should teach the puppy “place” so that he’d calmly lie on his bed during dinner hour.

That is a lovely vision, indeed, but it’s a very high bar for a 9-week-old puppy. There’s a more realistic way to create a peaceful kitchen table scene for the humans that works beautifully for your puppy, too.

Why Is he Acting This Way?

First, let’s think about this from the puppy’s point of view. (That is, of course, the smartest kick-off to solving any dog issue. If you want your answers to be long lasting, they have to work for the canine partner, too.)

So, why is the puppy being so annoying during the family dinner? First off, his nose is basically screaming at him: “OMG, there’s food!” A dog has more than 200 million scent receptors in his nose compared to our measly six million. If dinner smells good to you, just imagine what it smells like to him!

Combine that with the deeply rooted survival instincts that tell him to grab nutrition whenever he can, and of course he’s going to make a beeline for your plate.

If that weren’t enough, consider another motivating factor: togetherness. This little puppy only recently left his real family, where he spent every waking hour surrounded by littermates and mom. He’s not used to being alone, and wow does it feel terrific when this whole new family is all together, particularly if they were off at work and school all day.

So, to recap, this little pup is very naturally over-aroused because of the excitement of the food and the thrill of the togetherness. Now that we think about it, we humans can’t get cranky about that, right? As the adults in the room, we just need to help our little toddler navigate this moment in a way that works for us all.

Planning Ahead to Meet your Puppy’s Needs

Since we can expect a pup to have big feelings around our human dinner hour, that means we’re able to make a plan ahead of time. What can we do? How can we structure this regular occurrence to bring out the best in the pup and teach him the behavior we’d like to see? Try putting this three-step plan into action at mealtimes:

  1. Address the food issue with a frozen Toppl. Rather than keeping the pup on a different eating schedule, give the puppy his dinner at the same time you sit down at the table, so that he’s busy enjoying his own delicious meal instead of lusting after yours.

If you’re thinking, “But it only takes him 20 seconds to snarf up that scoop of kibble,” you’re right! That’s why you’ll want to freeze his dinner to make it last.

Take that same scoop of kibble, add some water and a spoonful of plain yogurt to make a slurry. If you’re inspired, add a dollop of peanut butter or canned pumpkin. Even more inspired? Add a few veggies like carrots and beans.

Use that concoction to stuff a few Toppls, and then freeze them. (Toppls, a chew-resistant toy made by West Paw, have a wider opening than Kongs, so the pup is more likely to enjoy them to the very last drop.)

If you’re thinking it feels a little mean to make food harder to eat, remember that it is natural for a canine to forage for his food. In fact, this session of chewing and licking will be deeply satisfying for your puppy. Studies have shown that for dogs, chewing and licking can be calming, lowering heart rates and reducing anxiety.

  1. Address the togetherness issue with a nearby crate. Rather than isolating the puppy elsewhere during this rewarding moment of family togetherness, make a plan to help him be a part of it.
A dog crate for a puppy set up in a family dining room.
A crate that’s set up near the table allows a puppy to feel included as the family gathers for meals. She’ll love listening to her people talking as she’s engaged with her own food-foraging adventure. You’re building a pattern of your pup feeling content to lie quietly nearby during meals. Credit: Kathy Callahan

 

My favorite way to structure this is to have the puppy’s crate in the kitchen, so that he can enjoy his Toppl while being included in the family dinner. He can listen to his people, smell and see everything — but you’re helping him develop the habit of lying quietly nearby during mealtimes. Keeping him confined but happily busy keeps him from practicing unwanted habits like jumping, biting, barking, and whining.

  1. Address the engagement issue with timing. If the Toppl and crate don’t work well immediately at your house, think about what happens for the hour before dinner. Has the pup had a chance to engage with everybody in the room? If they just walked in the door after being away, it may be hard for the puppy to settle.

Try adjusting your timing a bit. Build in a high-engagement 15-minute game in the yard or the rec room to give your pup a chance to connect the way he needs to, before asking him to sit quietly just feet from his favorite people without touching them.

Including your puppy in mealtimes in a way that doesn't involve begging reinforces good behavior.
Before you sit down at the table, make sure the puppy has had a chance to greet and engage with everyone for a bit. Then, after the fun of getting her own dinner out of a frozen Toppl, your content pup may even fall asleep long enough for you to do the dishes.
Credit: Kathy Callahan

Over time, all of this becomes a deeply ingrained pattern, and trust me when I say that patterns can be the unsung heroes of a relaxed interspecies life. When something simply becomes “how we do it,” there’s no need for a bunch of cues and direction. In this case, the pup starts to look forward to your dinner hour as the time he gets to run to his crate and enjoy chewing and listening.

If you still want to work toward using “place” during dinner, this is a wonderful first step. You are teaching how to hang out quietly nearby the family while they’re eating. Next you can start separately teaching how to go to “place” for a few seconds, then for a minute. As you strengthen those behaviors over time, one day you can marry them in that beautiful “place” on the bed during dinner. But for now, with your little one? The well-timed Toppl-and-crate combination will do the trick.

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