A female dog can have puppies throughout her entire life.
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Most intact female dogs follow a reasonably regular schedule for their heat cycles. (I know many of you are groaning, but the average female dog goes into heat at regular intervals, whether every four months or nine months or whatever.) If your dog has had a litter, her cycle may reset on a different time frame after having the puppies.
Most dogs start their heat cycles somewhere from 6 months of age to 2 years old. Toy breeds tend to come in heat when younger, while giant breeds when older. The dog’s breeder can tell you how her line runs and that often carries over. Most of my females have started with a first heat at about 13 months old and then have a heat every nine months.
Heat Cycles Are Not Periods
A dog’s heat cycle is different from a human “period.” Both involve bleeding, but for a dog, it signals a start to a fertility period whereas in humans it is the opposite.
As female dogs age, their heat cycles may get prolonged. A dog who normally had a heat every six months may now go nine or 12 months, potentially even longer. Also, heats may become less noticeable or intense in senior females. There may be less discharge, and she may not be as attractive to male dogs as when she was younger. These senior heats may mimic what is called a silent heat in younger dogs—no discharge and no obvious vulvar swelling—but the male dogs still show interest.
This is not the same as going into menopause like a senior woman, however. In aging people, the hormonal changes basically switch off the reproductive organs. This does not happen in dogs, so even an elderly bitch may become pregnant.
Bleeding From “Private Parts”
If your dog is bleeding from her vulva, carefully assess the situation. If she is not spayed, when was her last heat? Is there any evidence of trauma that might cause bleeding? Is her vulva swollen? Male dogs are often attracted to urine with blood, even if it is not part of a heat cycle.
Older female dogs are more likely to suffer from conditions such as bladder cancer or pyometra (a dangerous uterine infection). If she is spayed or not likely to be in heat, a veterinary visit is in order. A bladder infection or bladder crystals and stones are also possible. Uterine cancer, vaginal growths, or bladder cancer are all possible causes of a bloody discharge.
Dog Bladder Infections
If your female dog is urinating more frequently and doing extra licking even though she is not due to come in heat, the odds of a bladder infection are high. Ideally, you want to do a “free catch” urine sample first thing in the morning and take it to your veterinarian. Note: Walk your dog on a short leash and carry a saucer or small ladle you can quietly slip under her as she goes to pee. The sample should go into a clean container and be kept refrigerated until you can get it to the veterinary clinic, preferably the same day.
Watch your dog urinate to ensure that you see the urine and she is not straining to urinate without producing pee, which could be a sign of bladder stones.
Bladder stones in your dog should not be ignored. If your dog strains to urinate but nothing comes out or if he urinates and you see fresh blood, your dog may be suffering from bladder stones. Note: No urine may be an emergency, as urinary blockages can be serious.
What Causes Bladder Stones in Dogs?
Bladder stones are formed when excess minerals build up in the bladder as crystals and pack together. This could be because your dog doesn’t handle minerals properly when they hit the urinary tract or the urinary tract is faced with an excess of minerals, which could be from his diet. In addition, certain urinary pH levels can encourage the formation of different bladder stones.
What Are the Types of Bladder Stones in Dogs?
The two most common types of bladder stones in dogs are struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate and hexahydrate) and calcium oxalate.
Struvite stone formation often follows bladder infections and the corresponding alkaline urinary pH. Female, small-breed dogs are often affected, even when young.
Calcium oxalate stones tend to develop in male small-breed dogs and are associated with acidic urinary pH values.
A third type, urate stones, are uncommon but are associated with Dalmatians due to a genetic mutation seen in many Dalmatians for the processing of uric acid. Males are much more commonly affected. Selected outbreeding to reduce that genetic mutation has been done to help many Dalmatians for the future. Careful dietary management is important for many Dalmatians to prevent stone formation.
Diagnosing Bladder Stones in Dogs
Bladder stones can be diagnosed by palpation on some dogs if they relax their abdominal muscles. A dog may have multiple smaller stones or one large one. An X-ray can confirm the presence of bladder stones. A urinalysis is important, too. There are often crystals present in the urine that, along with the urine pH, can guide your veterinarian as to which type of stone your dog has.
Urinary Stone Type Affects Treatment Choices
Treatment of bladder stones can vary. Different stone formations depend on different pH values. For example, if your dog has calcium oxalate crystals, using a urinary acidifier like cranberry supplements could worsen his condition. Typical treatments include:
Surgery: If your dog has one large stone or has a urinary blockage due to a stone, surgery is often the best option.
Urohydropropulsion: This technique can be used if your dog has multiple small stones. A catheter is passed that fills the bladder and then small stones are flushed out.
Laser lithotripsy: This laser technique can be used to break up smaller stones that can then be flushed out. Both procedures can be difficult in male dogs due to the anatomy of the urinary tract.
Dietary dissolution: Dissolving urinary stones with diet tends to be most effective for struvite stones but can also work for calcium oxalate stones. Different prescription diets are used for the process, depending on the stone type. This can take a long time to dissolve urinary stones and during the dissolution your dog may be prone to urinary infections or blockages as the stone pieces shrink. Owners MUST strictly follow the diet, which means no unauthorized treats!
Home Remedies for Bladder Stones in Dogs
Some natural therapies and herbal supplements can help to prevent stone formation or recurrence, but currently none are effective for to dissolve existing stones. There are also dog foods that help support a healthy urinary tract.
Bladder stones certainly aren’t fun for anyone, but they can be resolved with surgery or medical treatments. Recurrence can be minimized with diet and management. It would be unusual for a dog to need to be euthanized (or put down) simply for bladder stones
Some topical products for fleas and ticks also help repel mosquitoes. Check your product’s label to know for sure.
Credit: Svetlana Parnikova | Getty Images
Dogs are a handy meal service for mosquitoes. While a dog’s thick haircoat can be a deterrent, the shorter hair on muzzles, ears, and groin area are easy access feeding spots for mosquitoes.
Along with an itch, a bite from a mosquito can transfer serious health problems. The best known and most common health hazard for dogs from mosquito bites is heartworm. At least 25 species of mosquitoes can transmit heartworm to susceptible dogs.
Reduce Bug Bites on a Dog
Reducing exposure to mosquitoes starts with your dog’s environment. Get rid of any stagnant water sources on your property. Mosquitoes lay eggs in stagnant water. Empty kiddie pools daily, dump old tires or buckets holding rainwater, and so on. If you have a pond on your property, consider using natural mosquito control such as releasing dragonflies.
Although mosquitoes may bite at any time, like during a walk through a moist, cool wooded area, it’s wise to keep your dog in at dawn and dusk, which are prime mosquito feeding times.
Mosquito Repellent for Dogs
Some monthly topical flea/tick treatments, like Vectra 3D and K9 Advantix II, repel mosquitoes as well as fleas and ticks. (Note: See below for information on heartworm preventatives.)
In addition, there are numerous herbal and natural products that help to repel mosquitoes. Buzzguard is a natural product that helps deter mosquitoes. Other good products include Vet’s Best and Wondercide. You may also want to try neem oil.
As always, these products should be tested first on a small area of your dog’s skin to be sure he does not have an allergic reaction.
Remember, as you have probably experienced yourself, no mosquito repellent is 100% effective, so you should still use a heartworm preventive and still reduce mosquitoes in the environment.
How Dogs Get Heartworm
A mosquito picks up heartworm when it bites a heartworm-infected dog or other animal. As the mosquito sucks up the blood, it also takes in immature heartworms, called microfilaria, which are in the blood of the animal it bites.
In the mosquito, microfilaria develops into infective larvae. This can take up to 10 to 14 days. Then, when the mosquito feeds again, it deposits those infective larvae on the skin of its victim. The larvae migrate into the bite wound and infect the animal bitten.
Heartworm preventives are available with a prescription from your veterinarian. Your dog should have a screening test to be sure he is free of heartworms before you start him on a preventive. It is important to realize that heartworm cases have been found across North America. Mosquitoes can get into our homes and bite during the winter months. The American Heartworm Society recommends doing preventives all year round.
Other Mosquito-Spread Diseases in Dogs
While heartworm disease is more common and takes time to become a clinical problem, other mosquito-spread illnesses can show up quickly and be rapidly fatal. These include viruses that are more commonly associated with birds or horses.
West Nile virus, eastern equine encephalitis virus, and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis virus can cause serious illness in dogs, though many canine cases are mild. Neurologic signs are common. Bird and horse cases in your area may lead your veterinarian to suspect these viruses if your dog becomes ill. Treatment for these viral illnesses is supportive.
The cause of SARDS is dogs unknown and does not appear to be caused by toxins. Credit: Henry Horenstein | Getty Images
Losing your vision can be a life-altering event. The same is true for our dogs. There are several causes of blindness in dogs—one of those causes is sudden acquired retinal degeneration syndrome (SARDS).
SARDS is characterized by the sudden and rapid destruction of photoreceptors in the retina. The retina is located at the back of the eye. Photoreceptors in the retina capture light that enters the eye and convert the light into electrical signals. These signals are sent to the brain through the optic nerve. The brain converts these electrical signals into an image of what your dog sees.
There are two types of photoreceptors in the retina—rods and cones. Rods are responsible for detecting the level of light (or brightness) and motion. Cones are responsible for detecting color. Unlike humans, dogs only have two types of cones and can perceive the colors blue and yellow but not red and green.
Destruction of the photoreceptors occurs over a period of a few weeks, although most dogs with SARDS seem to become completely blind overnight. Symptoms of SARDS include bumping into furniture and walls and having dilated pupils. Some dogs will become anxious and withdrawn or may whine and appear restless.
Causes of SARDS
The cause of SARDS is unknown. There are no known toxins that cause SARDS. There is speculation that the development of SARDS may be linked to an underlying endocrine disorder, such as hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) or hypothyroidism. This link has not been confirmed but is currently being researched.
Diagnosing SARDS in Dogs
Proper diagnosis of SARDS in your dog will require a visit to a veterinary ophthalmologist. Your dog will receive a complete ophthalmologic exam, including an electroretinogram (ERG). An ERG records the electrical activity of the retina when exposed to light. Dogs with SARDS will have no retinal electrical activity due to the destruction of photoreceptors in the retina.
The ERG takes about 20 to 30 minutes to complete. Your dog is first placed in a completely dark room for about 15 minutes. This immersion into darkness makes the retina particularly sensitive to light.
The pupils will need to be dilated for this test. If your dog’s pupils are not already dilated, a drop of a pupil dilation solution (such as tropicamide ophthalmic solution) will be instilled in each eye. Then a drop of a cornea numbing solution (such as proparacaine or tetracaine) is applied to the surface of each eye. This numbs the surface of the cornea in preparation for the ERG.
A contact lens that contains an electrode is applied to the surface of your dog’s cornea. Two electrodes are applied to your dog’s skin. One electrode is placed at the top of his skull and the other is placed next to the eye being tested.
Pulses of light are shone into the eye being tested. Electrical activity of the retina is recorded by the electrodes and the output is displayed on a computer. Lack of retinal electrical activity confirms the diagnosis of SARDS.
Your dog needs to sit still without moving his head during the ERG. Most dogs will require a sedative for the procedure. Some dogs may need to be briefly anesthetized to facilitate completion of the ERG.
Treatment and Prognosis for Dogs with SARDS
There are currently no treatments for SARDS. Blindness is permanent and irreversible. SARDS is not a painful condition. Most dogs will adjust to being visually impaired and lead a full and happy life.
If you suspect that your dog has become acutely blind, make an appointment for an exam with his primary care veterinarian immediately. She can complete some basic diagnostic tests of his eyes and determine if your dog needs to be referred to a veterinary ophthalmologist for further workup of his vision loss.
How To Help Your Visually Impaired Dog
Much like people who have acutely lost their vision, dogs with SARDS need help learning how to navigate their environment without their sight. Here are some things you can do to help your visually impaired dog:
Keep furniture and other obstacles in their current locations. Dogs will create a mental map of their environment to help them navigate without vision. If you must move furniture or other fixed items, do it gradually to minimize disruption of your dog’s mental map. This will help your dog adjust to the new location of the moved items.
Block access to stairs with safety gates.
Place a throw rug over the threshold or at the entrance to a room. Use a different rug texture for each room so that your dog can detect by touch the room he is entering or exiting.
Use different landscape textures in your yard—such as grass, landscape pavers, pebbles, or sand—to indicate transitioning between yard sections and proximity to an exterior door of your home.
Put away loose or unstable items that may create trip or fall hazards in your home.
Teach your dog navigation terms, such as “right”, “left”, and “step”.
Walk your dog on a leash when outside in the yard until he has become familiar with how to navigate the yard.
Devices that can help your visually impaired dog:
Goggles can protect your dog’s eyes from trauma that might be incurred by walking into bushes or tall brush. Rex Specs has created an excellent pair of goggles made specifically for dogs—see Whole Dog Journal’s 2023 Dog Gear of the Year for more information.
Wearing a navigation halo from Muffin’s Halo can help dogs realize they are about to bump into an object BEFORE it happens. See https://www.muffinshalo.com/ for more information.
Dogs can pick up worms through things like dirt that may have
contaminated feces in it.
Credit: K Thalhofer | Getty Images
Worms, or intestinal parasites, can be a problem for dogs, especially those in poor condition. Luckily, available treatments are safe and easy to administer. The trick is to recognize that your dog may have worms before the infestation grows.
How to Tell If Your Dog Has Worms
Signs your dog has worms will vary with the type of parasite. Most parasites pass microscopic-sized eggs in the feces and noticed, but two may be visible in your dog’s stool: roundworms (ascarids) and tapeworms.
Roundworms are long, thin worms and may be seen in stool or vomited up, particularly by puppies with heavy infestations. Roundworms are usually what people are seeing when they report worms in their dog’s poop.
Tapeworms are most noticeable as egg sacks, which are called “proglottids.” These tapeworm egg sacks are small squares or rectangles that are white when fresh but can dry up into rice-like particles in both fecal material and around the hair on your dog’s rectum and tail.
The clinical signs your dog has worms vary with the type of parasite and how heavy the load is. If the puppy has enough parasites, they can cause anemia and even death. A heavy parasite load may cause intussusception of the small intestinal, which is when the bowel sort of telescopes into itself. This may require emergency surgery.
With puppies, signs of worms include:
A lack of normal growth (called “stunting”)
Distended belly
Crying and whimpering
Diarrhea, possibly with blood
Vomiting
Live adult worms, mainly roundworms, may be noted in both stool and vomit. Hookworms are particularly nasty, and studies document a growing resistance to treatment.
Worms in Adult Dogs
Any intestinal parasite is a nutrient drain on your dog, so dogs with chronic health problems and senior dogs are at a high risk for nutritional problems. Signs of worms in adult dogs may include:
Weight loss or failure to gain or maintain weight
Diarrhea or loose stool
Vomiting
Blood in the stool
Anema (usually caused by hookworms and whipworms)
Dull hair coat
Lethargy
Unless you find a vomited worm, or worms or worm segments passed in the stool, a proper diagnosis will require a trip to the veterinarian with a fecal sample. You don’t need to bring the entire passed stool. A small chunk is adequate. The sample will be checked for microscopic eggs with fecal flotation. Alternatively, a sample may be sent out for antigen testing.
Some parasites do not shed eggs all the time or shed very few eggs. In those cases, a fecal flotation may be negative. If your dog’s clinical signs fit with an intestinal parasite, your veterinarian may recommend treatment anyway.
How Do Dogs Get Worms?
Dogs can acquire parasites in utero or via licking or eating fecal material or dirt, leaves—basically anything contaminated with parasite eggs. The eggs occur from the feces of an infected canine. Your dog can even walk through contaminated dirt and then lick his feet later, accidentally ingesting some eggs. Tapeworms require fleas or catching and eating prey such as rabbits or mice.
Luckily, many of the current topical treatments for fleas and ticks, as well as many heartworm preventives, have ingredients that will take care of most intestinal parasites. Tapeworms may require special medication.
Along with treating your dog, you may need to treat the environment as some parasite eggs can survive weather extremes. Also, if the infestation is secondary to fleas or hunting habits, you need to treat that primary cause if you can.
An itchy ear can be a sign of a food allergy, but it also could be an infection that needs treatment. Before jumping on the food-allergy bandwagon, consult your veterinarian. Credit: Aladino Gonzalez | Getty Images
If your dog suffers from skin allergies, choosing the right food can make a difference for your dog’s comfort and health. Allergies in dogs are a common concern from pet owners and can cause itchiness, red patches, hair loss, inflammation, and secondary skin infections.
Most pet allergies are not caused by food allergens, however. Food allergies in dogs are uncommon, with only 0.2% of dogs impacted. Environmental factors such as dust, fleas and ticks, or pollen are more common causes.
However, for dogs that do suffer from food-related sensitivities, diet is an important factor for symptom management. Avoiding common allergens and supplementing nutrients that help decrease inflammation and support overall skin health can make a huge difference for many pets.
Most Common Dog Food Allergies
Allergies occur when the immune system incorrectly identifies a harmless substance as a threat. The resulting allergic reaction is the immune system’s attempt at eliminating the allergen from the body. Dogs can develop allergies to certain compounds present in their food, and these allergic reactions create inflammation in the body, which commonly manifest as skin issues and/or digestive problems.
Best Food for Skin Allergies
The most common dog food allergies are caused by animal proteins, and one of the most common protein allergens for dogs is beef. Beef is a commonly used protein in commercial dog foods, but it can trigger itching, hot spots, and skin inflammation in sensitive dogs. Chicken, a staple in many dog foods, is another common allergen and, while it is considered highly digestible, it can be a trigger for many dogs. Even less common proteins like lamb, pork, and fish can cause reactions in certain dogs.
Sensitivities to grains, such as wheat and corn, are even more uncommon than allergies to proteins, but they do arise in a select few dogs. Soy is another ingredient that, while true allergies are rare, may impact sensitive dogs.
Eggs and dairy are two other possible suspects. While eggs are highly digestible, dogs that are allergic to chicken may have a sensitivity to eggs as well. Dairy that has not been treated with the lactase enzyme should be avoided for all dogs to prevent gastrointestinal (GI) upset. Dairy contains lactose, which is a sugar, and dogs, like all mammals other than humans, do not produce the enzyme lactase that needed to break down this sugar, making them lactose-intolerant. In addition to causing GI distress, it can also create inflammation that may present as skin itchiness.
The best dog foods for skin allergies are likely those that minimize exposure to some of the above-listed common allergens. However, many diets that avoid using common proteins or grains are expensive, so it may be worth a visit to your veterinarian to first rule out environmental allergens as the cause.
Many commercial dog foods have a long list of ingredients on the back of the bag. These ingredients help ensure the proper levels, and ratios, of nutrients your dog needs to thrive. However, the more ingredients a food has, the more difficult it is to pin one down as the culprit for your dog’s itchy skin. That’s where limited-ingredient diets can be helpful, as they typically contain a single source of animal protein and fewer ingredients overall, reducing the chances of triggering an allergy and helping to give you a starting place to determine what ingredients are to blame for your dog’s allergic reactions.
Novel protein diets are also a good option if you think, or know, that the animal protein source in your dog’s diet is to blame. These diets utilize proteins your dog has likely never been exposed to before, such as venison, bison, kangaroo, duck, and rabbit. Grain-free or limited grain diets may be a good option if your dog has a known allergy to some of the commonly used grains.
Selecting a diet that has skin-supporting nutrients is also key for our pets with itchy skin. Finding a food that contains a good source of omega-3 fatty acids will help support skin health and reduce inflammation. Ingredients such as fish oil, flaxseed, and marine microalgal oil may be used to supply these nutrients in many diets. You can also supplement omega-3 fatty acids.
Probiotics supplements or feeding probiotic-rich food aids in digestion and helps improve skin health. A healthy gut can improve your dog’s immune system and reduce the likelihood, and severity, of skin flare-ups. Supplements containing ingredients such as biotin, zinc, and vitamin E can help promote a healthy skin and coat and are beneficial for dogs suffering from skin issues.
For dogs with chronic skin conditions or severe allergies, a hypoallergenic or hydrolyzed diet may be the only option to help reduce allergy symptoms. Some brands offer hypoallergic formulas designed specifically for dogs with food sensitivities. They often contain a source of hydrolyzed protein, such as hydrolyzed chicken or soy. The process of hydrolyzation uses enzymes to break proteins down into smaller, more easily digestible pieces, such as amino acids and peptides, that the body can use. These smaller pieces are less likely to trigger an immune response in the body, making it an ideal choice for dogs with food sensitivities or allergies. If your dog is on a veterinary prescription diet, be sure to consult with your veterinarian before adding any supplements to their diet to ensure they do not have ingredients that should be avoided.
Whenever your dog is on a diet with the goal of reducing allergies, it is important to apply the same rules for their food to any treats, meal toppers, and supplements that you give them to ensure you are eliminating all sources of allergens. Managing your dog’s itchy skin starts with identifying and eliminating ingredients to which they may be sensitive. By choosing a high-quality, allergen-reducing dog food and monitoring their symptoms, you may be able to reduce skin irritation and improve their overall well-being. If your dog’s allergies persist, consult with your veterinarian for further testing or recommendations, which may include a more tailored diet or medical treatments in conjunction with a diet change.
Samson has worked as a therapy dog at Butte County's Juvenile Hall for nine years, first informally and later, as a certified Pet Partner. Credit: Nancy Kerns
A good friend recently gave notice that he wanted to retire from a job he’s had since he was just a tiny puppy. My dog Woody’s best friend Samson, who has never weighed as much as five pounds, has been going to work with my friend Leonora since he was a 3-week-old foster puppy—and recently, he started telling Leonora that he doesn’t want to go to work any more.
Leonora is an instructional assistant at the school in our county’s Juvenile Hall; she helps the kids there with their school work, which is no small feat in such a stressful environment. All of the students in this school have been in trouble with the law, and what’s more, most of them have come from extremely troubled families and are far, far behind in their grades’ educational standards (think high-school kids reading at the third-grade level).
When Leonora was fostering Samson and his five brothers for our local animal shelter, she asked her boss if she could bring the tiny puppies to work a few times, to have the kids help socialize the puppies. If this sounds scary to you, let me assure you that it was not; these tough kids, from hard-knock lives, took exquisite care of the pups—and early on, started rooting for Leonora to keep the tiniest one of the already small puppies. Leonora herself was also falling for the smallest pup; she didn’t need a lot of convincing that perhaps the fragile but determined puppy might be a special guy. I think that Samson was only about 8 weeks old when she decided that she was going to adopt him.
The kids at Juvenile Hall who helped socialize Samson and his five littermates when they were foster puppies unanimously decided that Samson—the tiniest pup in the litter—was the one that Leonora should keep.
Impressed with the calming influence that the puppies had exerted on the students, Leonora’s bosses agreed with her request to bring Samson to work every day once she had adopted him. He had small beds in several locations, including in the staff office and on her desk in the classroom, but he also spent tons of time walking through the classroom and choosing students to spend time with. Before he was five months old, he was already showing great skill at finding the lap of students who were in a particularly emotionally vulnerable state and refusing to leave them.
Guards who worked in the housing section of juvenile hall sometimes came to the school wing to ask Leonora if Samson could come to visit a student who refused to leave their cell in the morning. Leonora would go with the guard and sit on the floor outside the kid’s room and ask how they were doing; would they like Samson to come and sit with them for a bit? She’d sit quietly as Samson would wag his way into the kid’s cell. He instinctively seemed to know whether scampering or approaching quietly was called for. Usually, after a time with Samson in their lap—this tiny infusion of nonjudgmental love and acceptance—the kid would feel up to facing his or her day in captivity and come out of their room for a meal or to join the other kids back in the school wing.
Leonora also used Samson as an instructional tool; she used him as an introduction to dozens of classroom lessons on topics from psychology and learning theory (she would demonstrate how to teach new behaviors with positive reinforcement, and let the students teach Samson new tricks) to what is required to responsibly care for others—rather pertinent for kids who had seldom received responsible care themselves, and even more so for the teens who are themselves already parents.
It wasn’t just the kids that Samson provided comfort and affection to; many of the staff members looked forward to interacting with the cheerful little dog when they crossed his path in the labyrinthine halls between the housing units, the exercise areas, and the school sections of Juvenile Hall. Samson had short daily visits with many of his friends and fans, from the jail guards in their heavy boots and stiff uniforms, to the teachers and counselors in the school, to the administrative staff in the office. Some would just say hi and give him a smile; others were compelled to pick him up and allow him to lick their beards or hands; others would ask him to perform his “tricks.” He is just so tiny and vulnerable, and so relentlessly good-natured and friendly, that few could resist responding to and interacting with him.
Though Samson is a naturally friendly guy, Leonora also invested in his “professional development,” taking him to group classes for puppies, adults, agility, and therapy dog training. She and Samson also became and maintained their status as certified Pet Partners—a registered therapy dog/handler team.
Samson’s top weight never reached five pounds—a fraction of his best friend Woody’s size. Credit: Nancy Kerns
I have gotten to hear about all of this first-hand, because Leonora and I frequently walk our dogs together and my dogs often stay with her when I am out of town. But I’ve also gotten to see it for myself, because Leonora has invited me to come to Juvenile Hall as a guest speaker several times to talk to the kids about dog training. I took Otto, a couple of times. The Hall leadership has had a longstanding rule that disallows visits from any type of dog that is popular with gangs, so until very recently, my block-headed mixed-breed Woody was not allowed to come and be a demonstration dog, but scruffy Boone—who, according to the DNA tests, has more bully-breed representation in his genetic makeup than Woody, has been allowed in several times. Only a chance meeting between Leonora, me, my dogs, and the administrator of the Juvenile Hall school in the Hall parking lot got the administrator to say that Boone and Woody could come in for a visit. Boone and Woody both loved hanging out with and doing tricks for the kids—but Woody was not particularly comfortable with the sound of distant slamming doors; he would growl and his hair would stand up when he heard the booming and clanging sounds, and so I won’t bring him back again.
In contrast, for nine years, Samson has been happily working in this environment.
But very recently, Samson’s behavior has started to change. On some days, he started remaining in his bed as Leonora was getting ready for work, instead of running to and standing by the door, ready to jump in the car, like he’s done all previous nine years of his life; on those days, Leonora would let him stay home. But then, on some of the days when he had asked to go to work, Samson started standing by the door that leads to the employee parking lot long before the day was over, and refusing to come to her when Leonora called him back to the classroom or even the staff office.
After just a few iterations of this, Leonora told me, as well as her fellow staff members, that she was going to retire Samson. Several of them objected! But on one of Samson’s final days at Juvenile Hall, the school administrator also witnessed Samson’s refusal to come back to the classroom after a break outdoors, and he sadly backed Leonora’s decision to stop bringing Samson to work.
In a beautiful event, the staff threw Samson a retirement party. Leonora was stunned, teary and speechless, when they presented her with a plaque and certificate of appreciation for Samson’s contributions to the school.
Credit: Nancy KernsCredit: Nancy Kerns
Samson is still a happy, healthy guy. He still snuggles with his lifelong best friend Woody when Woody stays at Leonora’s house. He and Leonora still join me and my dogs on walks in our local wildlife area, and he still loves to meet and greet people when Leonora takes him with her on errands around town. He’s just dialed his social calendar down in favor of more time in his heated bed at home—and I have the utmost of respect and love for my friend Leonora for paying such close attention to and meeting that and every one of Samson’s other needs. I’m sure that the kids and staff—and Leonora herself—miss him during the weekdays. But as she told me, he’s earned his retirement a million times his tiny bodyweight.
With consistent training and your attention, dogs develop “tell” signals to indicate they need to potty. A classic tell is sitting at the door, staring at you. Credit: Os Tartarouchos | Getty Images
Many rescue and shelter dogs are listed as potty trained. But, in fairness to the shelter, it can be difficult to ascertain whether a dog is truly potty trained in a shelter environment. Some shelters are well-staffed, but others aren’t, which makes regular potty breaks difficult. It can be easier in a foster home, but not always. So, adopting a dog that is having potty accidents happens, but it’s not the worst thing—you can usually fix it.
Potty training an older dog is not difficult. You only need to get your dog on a suitable schedule for that is appropriate for them and fits your own schedule. Dogs love routines and respond well to predictability.
How to Potty Train A Dog
Potty training an older dog, whether due to potty-training regression or no training at all, is like potty training a puppy. The difference is that adult dogs have the physical ability to hold their elimination needs considerably longer than puppies. They may not know that, though, so you can help them learn. But that fact doesn’t mean that you can fast forward through the typical protocol suggestions. Consistent, methodical training is how you get a potty-trained dog. Here are the steps:
The usual protocol is to take your dog out first thing in the morning (before you do anything else aside from maybe a bathroom trip yourself) and actively supervise the dog. Bring treats so you can immediately reward the dog for an elimination. Be as enthusiastic as the dog’s temperament can allow once pottying occurs. Sound happy, even softly happy. I name the outings for pottying needs, as in “Let’s go potty!” This is for the future goal of expediency and focus. An additional reward for fast elimination can include a sniffari in the yard or a walk afterward. My preference is getting down to business first.
You may need to take your dog out again after breakfast. Meals should be at specific time frames/situational time frames, versus free feeding, to best determine bowel elimination needs. Each dog is different with how long they may need to eliminate after a meal. The age of the dog is also important as younger dogs process food much more quickly in general. When a dog starts sniffing the floor after meals, that is the cue to take them out just in case. My motto is, “When in doubt, take them out.”
Active supervision. Taking them out every few hours is a good general rule for adult potty training but, again, active supervision on your part when your dog is awake and mobile means that you are more likely to get them outside before they sneak off and you find a surprise.
Crating your new dog when home alone helps prevent accidents. But keep in mind that no dog should be left crated for lengthy periods. Especially with a new dog, it can cause emotional trauma. If you work outside of the home for a regular business day, then please consider a midday potty break courtesy of a dog walker/pet sitter.
The last potty of the day should be right before heading to bed, regardless of where your dog will sleep. Ideally, they will be sleeping in an area near enough to you that you may hear them whine in the middle of the night if they have to potty then.
Night Location. The dog’s overnight accommodation should be thought out with the possibility that if they are confined in some way, they will be unlikely to eliminate where they are sleeping. That can mean a crate, but it can also mean an ex-pen, preferably near where you sleep for both easy bonding as well as being within hearing range.
Every dog parent always wants to teach their dog to tell them that they need to go outside to potty. The thing is that your dog will develop their own “tell.” It’s up to you to be observant enough to notice what that is. The most common ones are walking to the door that is used most frequently for exiting to potty, coming up to you and staring at you, barking at a door, barking at you, and looking at you and then in the direction of the door. Dogs that have not been potty trained may not yet know what their “tell” is, but they will develop one. You need to look for it.
Puppy Potty Training Regression
If you’ve adopted a puppy who might have only been partially potty trained, just stick with the same above routine suggestions but add this step: When your puppy is playing heavily, they may simply stop playing and pee right where they are. This is perfectly normal, so don’t be alarmed or yell at them. Plan for this in future play sessions. Teach a take a break somewhere midway through the usual length of a play session to go out for a potty attempt. This will help your older puppy remember that telling you during play is the same as telling you at any other time.
It is also normal that an older puppy who gave you the impression that they were solidly potty-trained starts having accidents again somewhere around 7 months of age. That seems to be the common time frame where potty regressions can regularly occur. Just go back to basics as a refresher. Consistency and observation skills truly are your friends in a solid potty-training plan. Please don’t give up on your dog because of potty training regressions. This truly is the easiest issue to resolve.
Safely using a two-dog leash requires that the dogs are of a similar size and both are well trained to walk on a leash. Credit: Photo courtesy of Debby McMullen, CDBC
I cannot count how many times clients with more than one dog have asked me whether it’s an option to use a leash coupler or two-dog leash. My usual response is probably not, but that is not always the case.
Let’s start with the reasons you should not consider this option:
One or more of your dogs are reactive on leash. Enough said there. Truly, you do not want to end up in a tangled heap on the pavement from triggers you cannot predict.
Your dogs have vastly different walking styles. For example, one of your dogs has active goals that include covering as much ground as possible while stopping strategically to sniff certain spots, while the other one really enjoys a slow stroll sniffing all the pee-mail and leaving a response when appropriate. A double leash with two dogs like this will simply create frustration at best and conflict at worst.
One of your dogs is considerably larger than the other. A two-dog leash in this case can cause unintended physical injury.
Your dogs simply tolerate one another rather than having a solid relationship. Using a double-dog leash with this kind of dynamic present can be a recipe for disaster.
Both your dogs are young enough to enjoy wrestling together frequently. As someone whose giant breed puppy just turned 1 year old, the early days of walking both of my young dogs together were full-on wrestling events at times. Had I been using a leash coupler, it would have been impossible to easily redirect this behavior.
Now, of course, there are scenarios where a double-dog leash is not only a good idea, but it can also make your walk easier since there won’t be any tangled leashes. They do exist! A double-dog leash might work for you if:
You have two small- to medium-size dogs who have both a good relationship with you as well as with each other, along with having similar walking styles and preferences. Often bonded pairs look to each other for confidence and camaraderie in many contexts and outside the big world, this is usually more evident. The double-dog leashes can add to their emotional safety.
You have two senior dogs who are more interested in their time with you and sniffing the world that the mileage covered. Of course, they should already be comfortable with one another as well as comfortable on leash. Dogs of a certain age just prefer meandering and pondering smells versus fast tracking.
You have two well-trained dogs who participate in dog sports that require the ability to be cued into what you need them to do while being attached to equipment that other dogs might view as cumbersome such as sledding. It’s not much of a stretch to train for walking in the neighborhood together cohesively when you have already trained for a complicated sport.
Whether you can successfully try a double dog-leash depends on many factors. The first thing, of course, is that both dogs already know how to walk quietly and politely on a leash. Basically, they both have “leash manners.” Safety for you matters, too, as injuries while walking dogs occur more frequently than you may have guessed.
A two-dog leash is a bad idea if one or both dogs pull on the leash. Please do make sure that you put the right thought into this beforehand for safety’s sake—safety of both you and your two dogs. (Some of these same rules apply to wearing a leash around your waist.)
While long-backed, short-legged dogs like the Dachshund are believed to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, it can happen to any dog. Credit: Vsevolod Vlasenko | Getty Images
Intervertebral disk disease (IVDD) is a painful, debilitating spinal cord disease. Sadly, humane euthanasia of an affected dog is sometimes considered. Long-backed, short-legged dogs are thought to be at the greatest risk of developing IVDD, but any dog can develop the disease.
The two categories of IVDD are:
Hansen Type I: This involves traumatic rupture (herniation) of the intervertebral disk. If the disk material is ejected upward, it will cause pain to the dorsal longitudinal ligament and could compress the spinal cord, resulting in nerve dysfunction. If the disk material is ejected sideways, it could affect the roots of the spinal nerves, causing pain and nerve dysfunction. Approximately 25% of Dachshunds experience Type I disease at some point in their lifetime.
Hansen Type II: This is a slower degenerative disease in which the annulus fibrosis wears away, causing the intervertebral disk to slowly impinge on the dorsal longitudinal ligament, the spinal cord, or the roots of spinal nerves over a period of months to years. Type II disease is mostly seen in German Shepherd Dogs.
IVDD in Dogs Stages
Clinical signs of IVDD vary with the disease’s progress. The earliest stage of IVDD is localized pain. With increasing severity of the disease, signs may include:
Poor proprioception, which is the dog’s ability to recognize where the limbs are in space
Inability to use one or more limbs
Impairment of the muscles that control urinary and fecal continence
Decreasing ability to detect superficial pain that may increase to deep pain
Diagnosing IVDD in Dogs
A diagnostic workup of suspected IVDD starts with a neurologic exam and evaluation for pain. Other problems with similar symptoms, such as vertebral fracture or dislocation, a tumor affecting the spinal canal or the nearby spinal nerves, or a fibrocartilaginous embolism (FCE), will be ruled out to make the diagnosis of IVDD.
Proprioception: Conscious proprioception reflexes are tested by flipping the paws of a standing dog upside down so that the top of the paw is on the floor. A normal dog will flip the paw right back into normal orientation with the pads of the paws facing the floor. General proprioception can be tested by leaning the dog to the side with support, to see if the paw automatically adjusts position to prevent a potential fall.
Gait: The dog’s gait will be evaluated. Dogs with proprioceptive defects may audibly or visibly scuff their feet as they walk, and the claws on the affected paws may be much shorter than on unaffected limbs because of the scuffing. Dogs may be ataxic (uncoordinated gait), sometimes in just the rear limbs (giving a clue to location of disk herniation).
Anus: The anus is examined for muscular tone and incontinence.
Ability to feel pain: In dogs who are unable to use their limbs, a strong pinch is applied between the toes of the affected limb. If the dog doesn’t withdraw their paw from the noxious stimulus, they are considered to lack deep pain.
Testing: X-rays may help determine if there is a fracture or dislocation causing the clinical signs. Sometimes mineralized disk material can be visualized, and sometimes there is a narrowing of the intervertebral space, giving clues as to where disk herniation may have occurred.
More sophisticated diagnostic tests may include myelography, CT scan, or MRI, which can help localize the precise location of spinal cord compression.
Treatment for IVDD in Dogs
An important treatment of IVDD is exercise restriction. Restriction to a crate is best, with trips outside on a short leash, only to toilet.
If the dog’s symptoms are relatively mild, medical treatment with steroids or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) could be considered, along with muscle relaxants and other pain medication. Treatment with cold therapeutic laser can relieve discomfort. Mild oral sedatives can help keep a normally active dog quieter and less anxious.
If the clinical signs are severe (paralysis, incontinence), surgery might be an option, with the goal of relieving the compression of the spinal cord. Surgery is not a guarantee of a return to function, and usually there is a long course of physical rehabilitation therapy needed to help the dog walk again. The therapy can include in-office exercises and manipulations, underwater treadmill therapy, and a home exercise program.
IVDD: Home Care
If the dog recovers from a bout of IVDD, it is recommended to consider removing activities that involve jumping and quick turning from the dog’s lifestyle. This includes things like fetch, agility training, and off-leash hiking.
If surgery is not opted for, or if surgery was unsuccessful in returning function, options include using a cart to help the dog regain some mobility and beginning home nursing care, where the owner learns to do the expression of the urinary bladder and manage fecal incontinence. Home nursing care for a paralyzed dog requires a great deal of commitment in time and energy, however, and if the owner cannot commit to that level of care, humane euthanasia may be considered.
Choosing a mixed-breed puppy from a shelter may give you the chance to mingle with pups from a variety of backgrounds to see if one of them feels like a fit for you.
Credit: Slavica | Getty Images
You won’t see them strutting their stuff at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, but mixed-breeds (aka mutts) bring their own special charm.
While purebred or designer breeds offer predictability in looks, size, temperament, and traits such as prey drive and energy levels, don’t sell short the “super mutt,” as described by Michelle Cote, trainer and founder of Mutts Melding Mankind. With “multiple breeds in their DNA,” these dogs have diverse personalities “due to a more diverse gene pool.” For this reason, she prefers them for her organization, which places service dogs with veterans.
While opting for a purebred or designer breed offers what some owners want in a canine companion, such as when looking for a dog for a senior, adopting a mixed breed dog not only provides a loving home for a deserving animal but also helps reduce the demand for puppies from puppy mills and unethical breeders, Cote says. If you go to a reputable shelter or rescue, you will be exposed to an abundance of cute, charming mutts looking for a home. And, at most reputable shelters, the staff can guide you to choosing the right mixed breed pup (or abandoned purebred).
What Is a Mutt Dog?
While definitions may vary, mutts (aka, mixed-breed dogs) result from breeding either purebreds or other mixed-breed dogs. What sets them apart from designer breeds is that they are usually the result of accidental matings. Therefore, it’s difficult, if not impossible, to predict what puppies will look like or how they’ll behave. Each mutt is a blend of its parents’ breeds, resulting in a combination of appearance and temperament. You never quite know what personality and physical traits you’ll get, making every mutt a special surprise and a unique personality.
Are Mutts Healthier?
Like many simple questions, the answer to “are mutts healthier than purebreds” is a complicated one. A recent study led by researchers at Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences, based on data collected from the Dog Aging Project on 27,000 dogs (13,923 mixed-breed dogs and 13,618 purebreds), attempts to answer it.
The results, published in the journal Frontiers in Veterinary Science, suggest that while certain breeds may be more prone to specific medical disorders, purebred and mixed-breed dogs are mostly equal when it comes to the frequency of overall health condition diagnoses. According to the report, some conditions, such as dental calculus and osteoarthritis, were reported at roughly the same frequency in purebred and mixed-breed dogs. However, other conditions were more common in one than the other: Extracted teeth and dog bites were more common in purebreds, while ear infections were more common in mixed-breed dogs.
The Science of Mixed Breeds
Overall, the number of health-related issues may be similar. However, according to the World Small Animal Veterinary Association, there is a scientific reason why some issues are more prevalent among purebred dogs. Mixed-breed dogs usually mate randomly and whelp without human intervention, suggesting some natural selection involved if an individual fails to thrive. “The occurrence of common genetic diseases in mixed-breed individuals occurs randomly due to dispersed ancient liability genes,” according to the association. “Uncommon and breed-specific recessive or complexly inherited disease is far less likely in mixed-breed individuals.”
Mutts: the American Dream Dog
According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, approximately 53% of dogs in the United States are mixed-breed dogs. For a country based on a healthy mix of nationalities, it’s fitting that more than half the dogs in the United States are mixed breeds. But mutt, designer breed, or purebred, there is no bad dog.
In the discipline of skijoring shown here, the dog pulls a pulk (small, low sled) with the handler skiing behind. Credit: Courtesy of Jessica Häggqvis
If you’ve ever dreamed of your dog pulling you while you run, ski, or bike, there are dog sports for all of those activities. For winter sport lovers, skijoring is an excellent way to get out and enjoy the snow with dogs.
Whether you’re a seasoned cross-country skier looking to bring your dog along for the ride or you’ve never skied before, here’s how to get involved in skijoring.
What is Skijoring?
Skijoring is similar to canicross, where a dog is attached to you by a bungee line connected to a special pulling harness. For both skijoring and canicross, your dog’s bungee line will be attached to a special canicross or joring belt that you wear.
Skijoring uses the skate style of Nordic or cross-country skiing, as opposed to the classic Nordic style. If you’re a downhill skier, you’ll need different gear (and different skills!) to try out skijoring.
How To Get Involved in Skijoring
First, you’ll need to ensure your dog is suitable for skijoring. Many northern breeds like Samoyeds, Huskies, and Malamutes are great for pulling-focused sports because they were bred to pull. However, other breeds like Border Collies, German Shorthaired Pointers, and mixed breeds also often enjoy the sport, so breed isn’t a barrier to entry. As long as your dog likes to run, they can be taught to skijor.
The biggest consideration before getting your dog involved in skijoring is if they’re old enough and healthy enough to handle pulling. Many people wait until dogs are between one and a half and two years old before introducing pulling to ensure their joints are fully developed before putting stress on them.
Once you’ve decided if your dog is a good candidate for skijoring, you’ll want to start building your skijoring community and learning more about the sport.
“I think the best way to get involved is both joining a club for skiing and training your skiing skills and joining a skijoring club to give your dog experience,” says Jessica Häggqvis, a skijoring competitor based in Sweden.
When participating in sports like skijoring, consider using dog boots to protect paws. Credit: Courtesy of Melissa Whittinslow.
Melissa Whittinslow, a recreational skijorer based in Colorado who runs Samoyeds, agrees that group and club meetups are great ways to learn about skijoring. She says that you’d likely be able to borrow gear to try and take advantage of trained dogs who can help teach your dog the game at meetups. Look on Facebook for local groups and clubs centered around mushing and other winter dog sports.
If you live in a state with lots of ski resorts, you may also be able to take skate skiing lessons at a Nordic center without your dog. “Most Nordic centers will offer lessons for humans to learn foundational skills and techniques,” says Devin Walker, a skijoring enthusiast with a background in Nordic racing based in Colorado. “Skijoring isn’t a big sport in the United States like it is in Europe, but if you poke around social media, you can often find groups near you.”
Walker says that she recommends people learn to skate ski on their own without their dog first, and that skijoring is much more fun for the dog and handler if the human is comfortable on skis.
Walker mentions that Nordic skis don’t have edges, which can take a while to get the hang of. She recommends taking lessons or learning from an experienced friend on your own before you introduce your dog to the sport.
Though it’s important to learn how to skate ski to participate in skijoring, you don’t have to be a perfect skier to enjoy dog skiing. “I’ve been at world championships with competitors/skiers who are just standing straight not doing anything so there’s many ways to participate,” says Häggqvist.
How To Train Your Dog to Skijor
Teaching your dog commands on the ground first is a great entry level point to skijoring. Once you have a suitable harness, a belt, and a line, you can start teaching skijoring commands without skis, which is essentially canicross.
“Many people who skijor also do canicross, as it allows for year-round training,” says Walker, who skijors and runs canicross with her rescue dog, Ruby.
Whittinslow also started out in skijoring by teaching her dogs commands while running canicross. “I was a long-distance runner when I was younger, so this came easier for me,” she says.
Some of the basic commands dogs need to know for skijoring are:
Line out: Put tension in the line before starting
Hike: Go faster
Gee: Right
Haw: Left
Woah: Slow down
On by: Move past a distraction
When introducing your dog to skiing, Walker recommends starting slow and getting them used to skis, snow, and the sounds and motions of the skis on snow. “Sensitive dogs may need some time to get used to the sounds,” she says. “Be positive, be excited, and praise your dog frequently!”
Dog Skijoring Gear
In addition to skate skis, poles, and other human cross-country skiing gear, there’s some dog-specific gear you’ll need before you can start skijoring with dogs.
“You want to start with a bungee/tug line that is long enough for your dog to get out from your skis,” says Walker. “The human needs a belt, and the dog needs a pulling-specific harness. I strongly suggest having a quick-release mechanism attached to the belt for skijoring, for added safety.”
If your dog has long or curly hair or is sensitive to the cold, dog boots can also be a good idea to have on your gear list. You’ll avoid snowballs in their fur and will be able to stay out longer if your dog’s paws are sensitive. Häggqvis says that whether or not you’ll need booties depends on the dog and the snow you’re working with. Some snow can be sharp and icy, so keeping booties on hand is a good idea in case you run into less-than-stellar conditions.
If your dog doesn’t like booties, you can also use Musher’s Secret or another paw wax or paw balm to protect your pup’s feet from the cold.
Can You Compete in Dog Skijoring?
For those who want to compete in skijoring in the U.S., look for local clubs that host events. Credit: Keela McCleneghan
You can compete in skijoring, but you’ll need to do a bit of work to find local races in the United States. According to Walker, the best bet for finding races is by joining local mushing and sled dog clubs who put on events. For example, in Colorado, Colorado Mountain Mushers and Rocky Mountain Sled Dog Club often host winter race events with skijoring classes. You can also watch kicksledding and bigger sled teams during these events.
Should I Try Skijoring With My Dog?
All the current skijoring teams we chatted with recommended trying skijoring out with someone who has experience. “Having another dog to run with can really make a big difference in helping a new dog understand the game,” says Walker. “And it’s always helpful to get a second opinion on the fit of your dog’s harness when just getting started. Skijoring is so much fun, and it’s a great way to stay active with your dog in the winter, I’d highly recommend trying it out!”
“I know getting into skijoring can seem scary or not practical when you don’t know how to ski, but don’t let this stop you,” says Whittinslow. She says that the best thing about skijoring is that you don’t have to be a stellar skier to participate. “I love just being outdoors with my dogs working and learning together.”
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in dock diving sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears!
