Any growth near your dog’s eye should be examined by a veterinarian. If this sebaceous cyst was anywhere else on this dog, the owner could just watch for irritation. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images
It’s not uncommon to come across a lobulated pink or white growth on your dog’s skin, especially if he’s older. These bumps might be on his face, legs, or body. When you touch them, they may feel a bit oily and may even have a slight oily discharge.
These are likely sebaceous adenomas, which are benign tumors of the sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin. They range in size from tiny to about an inch in diameter.
These benign growths are most often found on middle-aged or senior dogs. Cocker Spaniels, Poodles, Miniature Schnauzers, and terrier breeds are most often affected. It’s wise to ask your veterinarian to look at any new growths, of course, but unless they look irritated, red, are bleeding, or are in an area that’s causing the dog to lick or chew at it, it can usually wait till your next visit.
Sebaceous Cysts in Dogs
Sebaceous cysts tend to be singular, smooth, and round. They are white or light pink, like sebaceous adenomas, they also may appear dark or pigmented. They may be found anywhere on the body, but the head is a common site. Some may even form along eyelids, where the eyelash follicles are. Schnauzers are often affected by sebaceous cysts.
These cysts occur near sebaceous glands in the skin, which are full of sebum, an oily substance that helps to lubricate and protect the skin. If a sebaceous gland becomes blocked, a cyst can form. The contained sebum becomes thicker and, if the cyst is opened, the contents are grayish and thick (like toothpaste).
Diagnosing Growths on a Dog
Diagnosis of both types of growth is generally done via observation. If your veterinarian has any concern, she may do a fine-needle aspiration to look at the cells under a microscope. Although rare, removal via biopsy is done with laboratory evaluation by a pathologist.
Most dogs ignore these cysts and adenomas unless one gets injured. At that point, the dog may lick or chew on the site. (It can be a challenge for groomers to avoid clipping these growths on dogs who have a lot of them.)
If your dog is chewing or licking at any sebaceous cysts or adenomas, you may choose to have them surgically removed. Depending on the size and location of the growth, this might be done by electrocautery, or it might require surgery. Recovery is rapid, but you will need to keep your dog from licking at the healing site.
Preventing Canine Skin Growths
There is no set way to prevent sebaceous cysts and adenomas. Bathing predisposed dogs with an anti-seborrhea shampoo may help, especially for cyst development. Keeping your dog clean and well-groomed may help. Diet has not been shown to be a factor.
Just remember that, while they may be unsightly, these growths are benign, which should be a relief to you!
Although discospondylitis is usually found in large and giant breed dogs, like these Great Danes, it can occur in any dog and even humans. Credit: GoDogPhoto | Getty Images
Discospondylitis in dogs occurs when a bacterial or fungal infection travels to the spine. The infection might just be at one point in the spine or could be at multiple spots at once. Note: Discospondylitis is different from spondylosis in dogs. While discospondylitis is an infection, spondylosis is a degenerative disorder of the bones in the spine.
How Discospondylitis Happens
Usually, the bacteria or fungi access the dog’s spinal discs via the bloodstream. An infection starts somewhere else in the body, such as in the mouth, on the skin, or in the urinary tract, and then the infectious agents hitch a ride in the blood. As blood circulates through the body, the bacteria or fungi may stop in the spinal discs and start up a new infection there.
Another cause of discospondylitis is a migrating foreign body, such as a grass awn or foxtail. These barbed awns can enter the body a variety of ways and then slowly move through tissue. The trail left behind is the perfect opportunity for infectious pathogens to follow along.
The third way that a dog can develop discospondylitis is after trauma to the back, such as a bite wound, getting hit by a car, or in rare cases secondary to back surgery.
Who’s at Risk?
Any dog can get discospondylitis, but large and giant breeds are the most often affected. Examples include the Great Dane, German Shepherd Dog, Boxer, Rottweiler, Doberman, and English Bulldog.
Chronic skin infections, having an immune system disorder, or being on immunosuppressive medications may predispose a dog to spinal infection.
What Discospondylitis in Dogs Looks Like
The symptoms of discospondylitis are non-specific, which means they can look like a variety of injuries and illnesses. Possible symptoms include:
Pain
Stiffness
Reluctance to move
Avoidance of jumping and/or stairs
Flinching when touched
Fever
Poor appetite
Weight loss
Lethargy
If the infection has caused the disc to swell and put pressure on the spinal cord, the dog may also have neurological deficits such as stumbling or dragging one or more paws. Over time this can progress to limb weakness, muscle loss, and even paralysis.
Exact symptoms can also vary depending on the location of the infection site(s). Discospondylitis most commonly occurs in the thoracic and lumbar spine regions along the dog’s back.
Getting a Diagnosis
Diagnosing discospondylitis in dogs can take a while. The same symptoms can result from a variety of conditions, which means your vet needs to parse through all the potential causes.
X-rays are the simplest way to make a diagnosis. The catch is that it takes three to six weeks after symptoms start for bony changes to be visible on an X-ray. It may take a couple rounds of X-rays to see evidence of discospondylitis.
Advanced imaging such as myelography, CT scan, MRI, or bone scintigraphy can pick up signs of discospondylitis sooner. These procedures usually require a trip to a specialist.
Once discospondylitis is on your veterinarian’s radar, the next step is to identify the bacteria or fungus causing the infection. Your veterinarian may take blood and urine samples to culture, and will test for brucellosis. In some cases, a spinal tap to take a sample of cerebral spinal fluid may be necessary. This can be done under anesthesia by a specialist.
Rarely, the infected disc itself may be cultured. This requires surgery done by a specialist and is usually avoided because of how invasive it is.
Treatment
Treatment for discospondylitis often takes six to 12 months to clear the infection. Your dog will receive an antibiotic or antifungal medication depending on the type of infection, with the exact medication determined by the culture and sensitivity testing. Fungal infections are generally more difficult to eradicate than bacteria.
Your dog may also receive pain meds to keep him comfortable.
In some cases, it may be necessary to do surgery to debride damaged tissue, flush out the area, and relieve pressure on the spinal cord. This procedure should be done by a board-certified specialist.
Most dogs show improvement within two weeks of starting treatment. If your dog does not improve at that time, your vet will reassess and determine a new plan. Serial X-rays can be helpful to track healing of the bones in the spine over time.
Bacterial discospondylitis has the best prognosis. These dogs may relapse during the treatment period, but usually the infection can be fully treated.
Fungal discospondylitis has a more guarded prognosis. Many dogs respond to treatment, but others do not. Some dogs require lifelong medication to control symptoms and keep them comfortable.
Discospondylitis due to the bacterial infection brucellosis cannot be cured. This disease requires lifelong medication and careful management because it can be passed to humans and other dogs.
For all types of infection, severe neurological symptoms indicate a worse prognosis.
If your dog is diagnosed with discospondylitis, it is important to be diligent with medications for the full treatment period. Six to 12 months is a long time to give meds, but if it can get your dog back to his normal life, it is worth it!
From packing lists to car safety, it helps to be prepared before traveling with your dog. Credit: Jae Thomas
The holiday season is approaching—a prime time for traveling to visit friends, relatives, and loved ones. If you’re anything like me, you’re probably thinking about how to travel with your dog. As someone who has driven from New York to California and Colorado to California multiple times so my dogs didn’t have to miss a holiday or spend time with a pet sitter, I’ve accumulated a wealth of knowledge when it comes to traveling with my furry friends.
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Stud tail in dogs usually looks like a bare spot of bumpy skin hear the base of the tail. Credit: Jacqueline Nix | Getty Images
Stud tail in dogs is due to hyperplasia of the oil (sebaceous) glands on the dog’s tail. While intact males are most often affected, hence the name “stud tail,” it can occur in dogs of both sexes, including dogs who are spayed or neutered. There is speculation that this gland may produce some sex-related scents. This is based on the “violet gland” in foxes. Some dog breeders use that term as well, but no one seems to describe any associated odor as smelling like violets!
Causes of Stud Tail in Dogs
Most commonly, stud tail is caused by excess hormones, usually androgenic ones. This tail gland hyperplasia could be due to simple excess testosterone, adrenal gland hormones influenced by Cushing’s syndrome, or any tumor that causes hormone production. Other causes include:
Hypothyroidism (low levels of the thyroid hormones)
Seborrhea, although usually more areas than just the tail have blocked hair follicles and greasy skin
Another skin disorder that influences the hair growth cycle
What Does Stud Tail in Dogs Look Like?
What you see is a funky area partway down your dog’s tail, close to the base. It may look swollen or simply greasy and discolored. There is usually some hair loss. Rarely, there will be an off odor. The area may be pigmented and feel bumpy.
It is more noticeable in dogs with short- or medium-length haircoats. Labrador Retrievers, Akitas, and German Shepherds seem to have a higher risk of this problem but that is anecdotal.
Complications of Stud Tail in Dogs
Most dogs blissfully ignore the area, but if your dog gets a secondary infection, you might notice him licking, chewing, or rubbing his tail. Inflamed, red skin, discharge, and even draining tracts may develop with an infection (usually bacterial).
Treatment of Stud Tail in Dogs
Your veterinarian will likely do a cytology and check for possible tumors or hormonal imbalances. If indicated, a needle aspirate or a punch biopsy to rule out any type of neoplasia may be done.
Mild cases without obvious infection generally respond to home care, such as cleaning the area with an anti-seborrhea shampoo or wipes with benzoyl peroxide or chlorhexidine. This cleaning may need to be done two or three times a week. Trimming the hairs around the area can make it easier to keep it clean.
If infection is present, antibiotic ointment or oral medications may be needed.
If your dog is intensely licking or chewing an Elizabethan collar can help speed healing by preventing the dog from reaching the area.
If your dog has an underlying condition such as Cushing’s disease or hypothyroidism, that problem needs to be treated.
Can You Prevent Stud Tail in Dogs?
Not really. Sometimes owners will elect for castration if their dog is intact. It will take a couple of weeks for all the signs to resolve after neutering as hormone levels drop, bit this may not clear the problem.
Fortunately, for most dogs, stud tail is a benign, cosmetic problem, which means keeping the area clean may be all that your dog needs.
Flick enjoying the Playology teething bone while Merlin seethes with jealously. (Mary Cope photo)
Chewing is a normal part of puppy development. Unlike humans, who have hands, curious puppies explore their surroundings with their mouths. They also begin teething around 3 months of age, where they lose their baby teeth and adult teeth begin to emerge, causing sore gums and a strong urge to chew. Providing appropriate toys for chewing and mental stimulation is essential for puppies to help soothe discomfort and prevent destructive chewing on household items like furniture legs, electrical cords, and shoes.
What Is a Good Teething Toy for Puppies?
A good teething toy should be safe, durable, and appropriately sized for your puppy’s breed and age. Soft but resilient materials, such as rubber, nylon, or silicone, are ideal for massaging sore gums without damaging new teeth. Textured surfaces such as small nubs and ridges can help maintain interest in the chews and allow the puppy to exhibit different chewing behaviors such as pulling and cobbing. Toys that can be chilled in the refrigerator are helpful for soothing gum inflammation and puzzle toys can help keep puppies stimulated and out of trouble.
Fortunately for this review, and unfortunately for my sanity, I had not one, but two puppies to test the following teething and puzzle toys out on! I have two young smooth-coated Collies: Merlin, who is now 1 year old, and Flick, who is 6 months old. These toys have been tested out for several months, and the verdict is in. We tested out six types of teething toys and three enrichment toys to help you pick the best option for your pups!
Overall Best Puppy Toy and Best Puppy Teething Toy:
This was a total puppy favorite. This toy is scented, a soft rubber, durable, and textured just right. The solid-cast nubs help sooth sore gums, and the texture and scent help keeps pups engaged. This toy touts a seven-times longer playtime due to the added scent, which I was skeptical about at first, but now I am sold on its benefits. This toy is easy to rinse off and clean, perfect for moderate to heavy chewers, and only shows some minor wear after four months!
This is the puppy’s favorite teething toy, and it is still their primary go-to months later! I will not bring a puppy home in the future without one of these in the house.
This toy was great for the puppies to play together with, and this is a toy they pick up to play with often. I do like it and would buy it again, however I wish I had sized up, as I got the toy for the size they were when they were much younger, and this is still a toy they like as much bigger dogs. This toy does not show any sign of wear, even after multiple vigorous tug and chew sessions.
This toy is designed to be wet and frozen for icy-relief! This is a great option for small dogs who are light chewers, but it is too small for larger breed puppies. This is a very soft toy, when it is not frozen, but my puppies did like all the little fabric tassles and were interested in chewing it.
This soft rubber toy has ridges that can be filled with treats, wet food, peanut butter, pumpkin, or yogurt for extra, and sometimes messy, fun! I liked freezing some sort of wet treat in the grooves to make it last longer and help sooth their sore mouths. My biggest complaint is that it can be challenging to clean. This was not the puppy’s first pick for chewing, unless it had food involved, but it is one they grab from time-to-time.
We have lots of Benebones lying about the house and they have been a great, reliable chew for all my dogs, not just the puppies. However, they are very hard, and they can pose a risk for fractured teeth. They are also incredibly painful to step-on in the night—be warned. These toys are the only ones that I think would stand up against a power-chewer and the flavor in the chew keeps my dogs coming back for more!
This toy is stuffable and freezable to keep your pup entertained. I do find this toy much easier to clean compared to the KONG Teething Stick. Similar to the KONG, this was not a toy that I found the puppies grabbing often to chew on without added food for incentive, but it is one that is nice to have on hand for treat enrichment!
This snuffle mat is nice because it can be made more challenging by closing the Velcro arms. I love snuffle mats for puppies as it helps tire out their brains by making them problem-solve and use their noses to find the hidden food. This snuffle mat can be machine-washed, however, I do wish it was bigger. Be sure to supervise your puppy as chewing or ripping up the snuffle mat may be an attractive option, especially for frustrated pups!
This is a 3-in-1 lick mat, slow feeder, and puzzle feeder that features three layers of fun! Puppies have to spin, lick, and sniff through this slow-feeding puzzle. This toy is dishwasher safe and BPA free. While I absolutely love this toy/feeder combo, I would recommend sizing up to the normal size Lickin’ Layers bowl (for adult dogs) for larger breeds as the puppy version is quite small and can only hold about a half cup of food.
This toy is fantastic for enrichment and slow feeding. There is a bit of a learning curve, but the ball can be adjusted to increase or decrease the flow of treats to make it more or less challenging. A word of warning, this is a LOUD toy, especially on hard floors and with kibble. If noise is an issue, I would recommend using it on a carpet and opting for a softer treat to fill it.
The right toys can make the many stages of puppyhood far more fun and comfortable for both puppies and their owners. Look for safe, appropriately sized options to encourage healthy chewing and structured play. Be sure to match the toy with your puppy’s chewing strength, check toys frequently for damage, and replace toys when worn. The expense of a replacement toy is always going to be less than a trip to the emergency vet! Hopefully, this review helps you find the perfect match for your puppy at home.
Pepcid and Prilosec are better options than Tums for a dog with an upset stomach, but all should be given only with veterinary supervision. Credit: Snizhana Galytska | Getty Images
Tums is an over-the-counter (OTC) human antacid composed of calcium carbonate. If your dog is battling stomach issues, your veterinarian may recommend an antacid for dogs to help with high levels of stomach acid, but it’s not likely to be Tums. Most commonly, your vet may prescribe an acid blocker such as famotidine (Pepcid) or omeprazole (Prilosec).
Tums for Dogs with Kidney Failure
For dogs with kidney failure, phosphorus buildup can be a serious side effect. Veterinarians usually prescribe phosphorus binders to deal with this, but Tums may be suggested as a low-cost alternative. The calcium in Tums helps to bind some of the excess phosphorus, which is then passed in the feces. This is not the ideal, however, and dosing directions need to be followed exactly. You should be in close contact with your veterinarian.
The use of Tums long-term without veterinary supervision can exacerbate kidney disease and/or cause an excess of calcium. Tums can also interfere with some other medications, generally making them less effective. You should always check with your veterinarian before trying any OTC medication for a dog with chronic health problems.
When to Consider Tums for Dogs
The most common use for Tums in dogs is for calcium supplementation for female dogs after giving birth (whelping). Tums should not be given during pregnancy or pre-whelping as it can lead to life-threatening hypocalcemia levels, problems during whelping, and problems during lactation if given pre-whelp.
Eclampsia, milk fever, or hypocalcemia can be seen in dams who are nursing. It is most common with large litters and with dams who were inappropriately supplemented with calcium while pregnant. Affected bitches may show muscle tremors and progress to seizures. Behavior changes may be the first subtle indication that something is wrong.
This is a medical emergency, usually requiring intravenous calcium. Post hospital care, bitches may be sent home with Tums as one of their sources of follow-up calcium supplementation. Directions should be followed exactly.
If Tums are suggested for calcium supplementation for your bitch post whelping, be sure to get an appropriate dose from your veterinarian. Check for the addition of flavorings like xylitol and for any dyes.
Remember, xylitol can be deadly to dogs, even in small amounts! Read the label ingredients. In addition, Tums preparations often have dyes added to make them appeal to people. Some dogs are sensitive to these food dyes to provide color.
Note: Tums is not approved for use in dogs but might be used off label for some dogs. Off label means the medication is not FDA approved for that use but generally regarded as safe for certain uses in pets under controlled conditions.
With all of the options available in stores and online, finding a good wet food that meets your dog’s needs can be a daunting task. Credit: JackF | Getty Images
There are many reasons dog owners may choose to feed their dogs canned food, and one primary concern that leads many others to choose not to—the price. High-quality canned foods, especially those rich in animal protein and made with whole ingredients, are often significantly more expensive than dry foods. For those who own large-breed dogs, or for multi-dog households, the expense of feeding canned food exclusively adds up very quickly, making it cost-prohibitive for many families, including my own. However, for certain dogs, the benefits may justify the extra expense.
The biggest advantage of canned food is its high moisture content. With most formulas containing between 75-85% water, a canned diet is an excellent way to boost your dog’s hydration. This makes canned food especially beneficial for dogs with kidney or urinary tract issues, those on diuretic medications, and dogs recovering from gastrointestinal illnesses. Proper hydration supports healing, organ health, digestion, and overall vitality.
Another major benefit of canned diets is their composition. Many high-quality canned foods are naturally lower in carbohydrates (with some being carb-free) while also being rich in animal protein and healthy fats. Because dogs have no nutritional requirement for carbohydrates, this balance is ideal for maintaining lean muscle and supporting metabolic health. In particular, low-carbohydrate diets may be advantageous for dogs with cancer, since cancerous cells use carbohydrates, glucose to be specific, as an energy source at a higher rate than most normal cells in the body. Because of this, you want to feed your cancer-patient as few carbs as possible.
Wet food is also typically more aromatic and palatable than dry food options, making it ideal for picky eaters, dogs with decreased appetites due to illness or medication, and senior dogs who have a reduced sense of smell. Many canned diets also utilize fewer preservatives and contain higher levels of animal-based ingredients. The soft texture of canned food also means it can be used to fill enrichment toys, lick mats, or puzzle feeders to provide both mental stimulation as well as a tasty and nutritious snack.
(Note: Affiliate links are offered for your convenience. Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase food through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.)
Best Canned Dog Food by Category
If you are considering a wet-food diet, it is important to select the right product for your dog’s specific needs. The store shelves are full of options, and shopping online can be equally as overwhelming for even the most informed pet parent. To help make choosing a diet that is right for your dog easier, we have selected products we recommend under the following categories:
Many adult dogs thrive on an adult-maintenance diet, which generally contains a lower concentration of fat and protein, and a few other nutrients, compared to diets formulated for puppies. Growing puppies and pregnant or lactating females require an “all life stages” food and many highly active dogs do very well on these diets as well, as the higher fat and protein levels help to support sustained energy and lean muscle mass.
Beyond these two basic categories, your dog may require a limited-ingredient or grain-free diet, or one with lower amounts of fat or higher amounts of protein due to food sensitivities or health issues. We also have selected options for a diet that does not contain meat, and some budget-friendly options too!
Ingredients:
Sweet Potatoes, Potatoes, Water Sufficient for Processing, Brown Rice, Carrots, Tomatoes, Organic Olive Oil, Peas... View all
Things we like:
This food, and its ingredients, are from the USA.
We prefer non-legume carb sources; our top pick (and our runners up) contains minimal legume ingredients.
First 10 ingredients:Sweet Potatoes, Potatoes, Water Sufficient for Processing, Brown Rice, Carrots, Tomatoes, Organic Olive Oil, Peas, Blueberries, Cranberries
Here are the criteria used by Whole Dog Journal to choose the products that we include on our “Approved Canned Food” list, as well as our selections for the overall “Best” canned foods.
Named animal protein sources at the top of the ingredients list. Ingredients in pet food are listed in order of the weight of that ingredient in the formula, so you want to see a named animal protein source or sources in at least one of the top two spots on the list of ingredients. (“Named” means the species is identified: chicken, beef, lamb, etc.)
Water or broth may be first or second on the list, as the addition of water is often necessary for processing. But the animal protein source or sources should appear immediately after that.
If plant proteins are present in the food, we like to see them play a supporting role, appearing lower on the ingredient list – no earlier than the fifth or sixth position. The amino acid profiles offered by animal proteins suit dogs better than those of peas, potatoes, corn, soy, etc.
Named fat sources. Just as with the animal protein sources, any animal fat sources should be identified by species (i.e., chicken fat, beef fat, pork fat, salmon oil, etc.).
Whole foods. When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or other carbohydrate sources such as chickpeas, peas, or sweet potatoes are used, to the extent possible, they should be whole.
Ingredients that have already been processed, shipped, and stored before they are mixed with other ingredients and processed again (canned) lose more of their nutritive value along the way than those that are shipped and stored whole before their inclusion into the wet food mix.
The things we avoid when selecting a diet are:
Animal products that are not specified by species. Meat, meat meal, poultry, poultry meal, animal fat, poultry fat: If your dog is intolerant of or allergic to certain ingredients, you have to know what specifically you are feeding them.
Animal by-products. This includes meat by-products and poultry by-product. We would strongly prefer to know what, exactly, is being included in the food, instead of “by-products” being used as a catch-all term. In some cases, the “by-products” used may well be nutritious chicken liver, chicken kidneys, and chicken hearts, but without specific labeling, the composition of the by-product is unknown.
Ingredient splitting. This is where two or more very similar food “fractions” appear on the ingredients list. Because the ingredients are listed in descending order of their weight, a manufacturer can make it appear that a high-quality ingredient is represented in the food in a greater amount than it is. If all the iterations of an ingredient (to use a common example, brown rice, white rice, brewers rice or yellow peas, green peas, pea protein, etc.) were combined or reconstituted, they would outweigh and push the higher-quality ingredient down on the ingredients list.
Added sweeteners. Sweeteners are sometimes used in some foods to increase their palatability. In canned foods, the protein- and fat-rich meaty ingredients should be enough to tempt the appetite of any dog.
Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. None of these are needed (or common, thankfully) in canned food.
Ultimately, the “best” diet is one that works for your individual dog, supporting their health, appetite, and lifestyle. While canned food may cost more and require some extra handling, its benefits in hydration, digestibility, and palatability can make it a worthwhile addition, particularly for dogs who need a little extra support at mealtime.
Search Our Canned Dog Food Database
If you’re looking for just the right wet food for your dog, we recommend taking a closer look at our list of “Approved Canned Foods” (available to WDJ subscribers only). This year, in addition to updating our list of more than 1000 individual canned dog foods, we’ve upgraded the database itself. Along with being able to filter your search by company, ingredients, price range, and more, you can also now compare specific foods, keep a list of your favorites, and share your search results with others.
When picking the right diet for your dog, remember that there are no one-size-fits-all recommendations for food. Feed each of your dogs what works best for them and consult with your veterinarian or a nutritionist if you have questions.
During testing, we looked for pet air purifiers that were easy to clean, had a good clean air delivery rate, and ran quietly. Credit: Jae Thomas
The best pet air purifiers can help minimize pet odors, pet hair, and pet dander in your home. They can also help with other common allergens and irritants like dust mites and pollen. If you or your dog suffer from seasonal allergies or live in an area with frequent poor air quality, a good air purifier can help you both breathe easier.
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If your dog is down with the flu, or any of the CIRDC respiratory diseases, he may be lethargic and unwilling to eat.
Credit: Angintaravichian | Getty Images
In recent years, dog flu and severe canine respiratory disease of unverified etiology (causes) have resulted in many illnesses and even deaths in dogs. These two illnesses are part of a group of respiratory problems dubbed the whole canine infectious respiratory disease complex, or “CIRDC.”
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Bed bugs will bite your dog, just as they will bite you, and your dog can carry them home on himself and his bedding, just like your luggage.
When it comes to bed bugs, humans are the preferred food source, but bed bugs are equal opportunity insects. While bed bugs don’t live on your dog like fleas, preferring to feed and leave, they may inadvertently catch a ride on your dog and/or his bedding. Sadly, flea and tick products are not effective against bed bugs.
Recognize Bed Bug Bites on a Dog
Bed bugs make small, red bites that can be very itchy. At this time, their bites are not associated with any diseases, but if your dog is biting and chewing at the bites, he can develop secondary bacterial or fungal infections.
Look for the bugs themselves as well as reddish brown stains under sheets, at mattress corners, and on box springs. One of the best methods for identifying bed bugs is a trained bed bug dog, but most families don’t travel with one.
Bed bugs are flat, brown bugs, about the size of a grain of rice. These bugs become active at night when you and your dog are sleeping. Pet beds, dog crates, and pet blankets can all provide homes for bed bugs. During the day they hide in any cracks related to a bed (frames, headboards, mattress seams). Eggs are also laid in those locations. Bed bugs have five nymph stages, all of whom are blood thirsty.
Startling as it is, adult bed bugs can go months without feeding, so they can live is a closed off room until the unwitting person or pet enters.
Avoiding Bed Bug Infestations
Many people have learned, often the hard way, to check bedbugreports.com when booking a hotel room. Not only will checking save you some itchy bites, but it will also save your dog from bed bug bites.
You can inadvertently bring bed bugs home if you stay in a contaminated place. The bugs can hide in your clothes, your suitcase, your purse, anything you carry out of an infected room and into your home. Bed bugs can, and will, also walk from one room to another such as in a hotel or an apartment building.
Eliminating Bed Bugs
Getting rid of bed bugs is war. Vacuuming, being sure to get into all cracks and crevices, and then dumping the vacuum bag outside in a sealed bag can help. Doing laundry of any possibly contaminated clothes or bedding helps. Be sure to include pet bedding, toys, and blankets. Use hot water for the wash and run the dryer on high heat.
For an infected mattress, enclosing it in an airtight plastic covering will kill the bugs. But, honestly, if you can, get rid of the mattress and buy a new one.
If your house is infected, you will most likely need a EPA-approved pesticide, and you would be wise to use a professional exterminator. Be sure to follow all guidelines on the use of these chemicals. You and all your pets will need to be out of the house.
Avoiding bed bugs is the ideal way to go. Always check hotels, dorms, and cabins before you unload any luggage or supplies.
German chamomile has a wide array of uses for dogs. It is considered very safe for pet use but be mindful that some dogs may be allergic to it, so check for sensitivities before use. Credit: BiancaGrueneberg | Getty Images
Chamomile can do a lot for dogs including helping to reduce your dog’s anxiety, improve her skin and coat, support digestion, repel insects, and even help with ear or eye infections.
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In addition to being great for enrichment activities, lick mats can help dogs calm down and eat more slowly. We tested six options to see which worked best. Credit: Jae Thomas
Similar to chewing, licking is a naturally soothing behavior for dogs. The best dog lick mats are excellent ways to offer your dog enrichment in a calming, relaxing way.
Most dog lick mats are made of silicone or rubber and have various crevices or textures, making them ideal vehicles for peanut butter, softened kibble, raw food, or canned food. They can also be frozen to extend mealtimes, which is great for dogs who eat too fast.
A frozen lick mat will slow a dog down significantly more than a slow feeder bowl and won’t cause as much frustration for dogs who have trouble with puzzle toys. These handy tools are also good for dogs who get nervous in certain situations (like at the vet or in the car), since licking has a naturally calming effect.
In addition, lick mats can be great enrichment activities when busy pet parents need to keep their pups occupied occasionally.
Here’s how to choose the best lick mat for your dog:
Traits We Want in a Dog Lick Mat
Ease of use: Dog lick mats should be easy to fill, freeze, and clean. Because lick mats have irregular (and sometimes tiny) patterns, being dishwasher safe is a must. You don’t want to have to hand wash sticky peanut butter or leftover wet food from tiny crevices in a lick mat.
Extra features: Extra features like suction cups to keep the lick mat from moving are handy. Some lick mats also offer additional enrichment though extra features, like wobbling lick bowls for an extra challenge, or waterproof suction mats for bathtime.
Note that some dogs get frustrated with more difficult puzzle toys. Lick mats with lots of compartments or options that wobble may not be suitable for dogs who are easily frustrated. Instead, opt for a lick mat with a single, simple pattern.
Durability: The durability your dog needs will depend on their preferences. Puppies or dogs who tend to chew should avoid lick mats and opt for Kongs or the West Paw Toppl instead. Very small dogs and gentle lickers will likely prefer a softer, more soothing mat, while high-energy excitable dogs may enjoy the extra challenge of a lick mat with deeper, irregular crevices.
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The LickiMat classic soother is great at getting dogs to calm down. Less of a puzzle toy and more of a calming activity, the soft bristles and singular pattern reduce frustration and promote decompression.
Though they’re not the most durable option (opt for something else for teething puppies), this two pack of Frisco Lick Mats offers enrichment at an affordable price.
The LickiMat Wobble is a good option to feed full meals in, since it holds up to four cups of dry kibble (slightly less if soaked). It’s a bit hard to fill with liquid and freeze, since it has a rounded, wobbly bottom.
This waffle-shaped lick mat is divided into four different sections, so you can easily vary the “toppings” or treats you offer to your dog on it. It’s relatively sturdy and thick, so it doesn’t slide around much on the floor.
This lick mat is designed to suction to your shower walls so your pup can have a treat during bathtime. It has very deep grooves and requires quite a bit of food to be put in it, which is heavy when frozen and may cause your mat to slide off the wall.
Best Dog Lick Mat: LickiMat Classic Soother
The LickiMat Classic Soother kept our tester dogs happy and busy for quite awhile. It also cleaned up easily and kept its contents well-contained. Credit: Jae Thomas
If the goal of a lick mat is to give your dog a quiet, soothing activity, the LickiMat Classic Soother does a good job of that. It doesn’t have a ton of different textures or compartments and isn’t too difficult for dogs to get the food/treats out of, though it entertains them for quite a long time with its dense bristles.
The pattern on this mat is simple and the texture is soft, encouraging dogs to lick and calm themselves down. It’s great for dogs who get frustrated with puzzle toys or who give up on lick mats with complicated textures.
The big rim around the edge keeps watery treats from spilling out, and it cleaned up easily in the dishwasher.
The only downside to this option (like most lick mats) is that it needs to be placed on something rigid when filling it with liquid if you plan to freeze it. It’s a little bit too floppy to fill with liquid then transfer to the freezer without spilling the filling.
Best Dog Lick Mat with Suction Cups: Woof LickMat
The Woof LickMat is easy to use and sticks well to hard surfaces. The company offers a LickMat spread to go with it, but the mat can be filled with just about anything. Credit: Jae Thomas
Woof is constantly innovating dog enrichment toys and the new Woof LickMat lives up to the hype. It has a few different uses.
First, you can add water to the brand’s LickMix spread (sold separately) and stir it in the center bowl before spreading it onto the rest of the mat. The mix comes in several different flavors and though the powder can get a little messy during the mixing process, it ultimately doesn’t matter since you’ll be spreading the powder mixed with water all over the mat anyway.
The LickMix spread is convenient since it doesn’t require being put in the freezer. It thickens up on its own after mixing with water and sitting for five minutes.
Secondly, you can simply spread your dog’s favorite treat or wet food onto the mat. Freeze the mat after spreading food on it for an extra challenge.
The mat has a bunch of small suction cups on the back of it, so you can affix it to the floor, the shower wall while giving your dog a bath, or any other hard surface. It can be a little difficult to use the suction cups if the mat is already filled with food (your hands may get a little messy), but it stuck well to my hardwood floors and my bathtub walls. Many lick mats slide around while your dog works on them, so the suction helps it stay in one place.
Best Budget Dog Lick Mats: Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mat (2 Pack)
The Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mats come as a pack of two with each having a different texture. They keep dogs busy for a long time but may need a couple of cycles in the dishwasher to get fully clean. Credit: Jae Thomas
If you have two dogs or like to prep multiple lick mats at a time, the Frisco Silicone Treat Lick Mat 2 pack is the most economical option on this list. I’ve had these two lick mats for years. They’re not the most durable (the gray one has a few nibbles on it from when my Collie was a puppy), but they’re great for trustworthy adult dogs who don’t destroy enrichment toys.
The two different textures both offer long enrichment periods with shallow crevices for your dog to lick their favorite treats out of. Both mats are top rack dishwasher safe, though they sometimes take two wash cycles to get completely clean if you use a sticky treat, like peanut butter, on them.
The only other downside to these mats is that I wish they were a little more rigid. Since they’re floppy, it’s hard to put them in the freezer with liquids on them without spilling.
Best Dog Lick Bowl: LickiMat Wobble
When it comes to slowing down a dog who eats too quickly—or just needs some entertainment—the LickiMat Wobble bowl gets the job done. Our tester dogs took almost an hour to get through a meal. Credit: Jae Thomas
For smart, high-energy dogs or dogs who eat their meals way too fast, the LickiMat Wobble bowl is a great way to slow down mealtime. It holds about 4 cups of dry kibble—less if it’s soaked since it expands—and can be filled with liquid like water or dog-safe chicken broth and frozen.
With frozen soaked kibble and water, it took my dogs nearly an hour to finish their food in this LickiMat, buying me some much-needed quiet time to take a few work calls.
The only downside of this option is that it’s a little bit difficult to fill and freeze since it has a rounded, wobbly bottom. I put it inside of a slightly bigger bowl to keep it stable while I filled it, then put the bowl and the LickiMat in the freezer together.
Another Good Dog Lick Mat Option: Spot Belgian Waffle Lick Mat
With four separate sections, the Spot Belgian Waffle lick mat is great if you’re looking to give your dog several different things to taste. However, the sharp corners can make it more difficult to clean. Credit: Jae Thomas
The Spot Belgian Waffle Lick Mat is a great divided option. The four different sections can be filled with a variety of treats, foods, or supplements to keep mealtime fun for your pup.
It’s sturdy and rigid, but the sharp square corners of this mat tend to hold onto wet food and peanut butter, even when put in the dishwasher. It may require multiple washes to get fully clean if you use sticky or thick fillings.
This mat is a bit heavier and more rigid than other options on this list, so it doesn’t move as much when dogs are working on it, even though it doesn’t have suction cups.
Best Lick Mat for Bath Time: Aqua Paw Lick Mat
The Aqua Paw Lick Mat is ideal for keeping dogs occupied and happy during bath time. It sticks well to most shower walls but may slide if it gets too heavy. Credit: Jae Thomas
I used to use the Aqua Paw Lick Mat frequently while giving my Collie a bath when she was a puppy. The suction cups are a great idea to make bath time more enjoyable for dogs and this lick mat sticks well to most shower walls and bathtubs (it can also be affixed to the ground for non-bath usage).
The main downside of this option is that it’s very large (opt for the smaller size for small dogs) and requires a lot of food to be put in it since the grooves are so deep. When frozen, it’s very heavy and during testing, sometimes slid off the shower wall from the weight. This is another option that requires multiple cycles in the dishwasher to get completely clean.
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