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How to Remove Burrs from Your Dog’s Coat

By
CJ Puotinen
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2
Burrs on dogs can be painful as well as uncomfortable and require some care to remove.
Getting burrs out of your dog’s hair can be difficult—especially when they get stuck around sensitive areas such as lips and paws—but working slowly and having the right tools will make the task easier. Credit: PavelRodimov | Getty Images

If you live where plants produce spikey seeds that cling to a dog’s hair, you’ve probably encountered burrs. These seed or fruit pods with tiny barbs, hooks, or sharp spines can be difficult to remove, but the right equipment will simplify the task.

 

 

What Are Burrs?

Burrs are seeds that attach to clothing, fur, or feathers and help disperse seeds over a wide area. Cockleburs (Xanthium species) and burdock (Arctium species) are common examples. Annoying to pets and hikers, burrs are difficult to remove without tearing hair or fabric, and at their worst they can injure the skin and damage canine coats.

Burrs are different from awns, which are bristle-like extensions attached to the seeds or flowers of grains and grasses. Sharp or barbed awns such as foxtail grasses (Setaria or Hordeium species) can painfully puncture an animal’s fur, feet, or skin. Awns are dangerous because they can burrow into ears, eyes, and noses, requiring medical attention. The same treatments that remove burrs can help keep your dog from attracting awns.

Before attempting to remove burrs, take a close look at your dog’s coat. Burrs can accumulate anywhere, especially on a long- or thick-haired dog, but they’re often found in and around the ears, paws, armpits, tail, and abdomen. Burrs are not always visible, so feel gently all over your dog’s coat.

Some dogs rarely pick up burrs while others are burr magnets. Burrs don’t tend to collect on short-haired dogs, while breeds with long, dense, or curly coats are more likely to get burrs tangled in their hair.

Groomers’ Recommendations for Removing Burrs from Dogs

Montana pet groomer Angie Anderson has years of experience with burr-collecting Brittany Spaniels, Springer Spaniels, and Setters. “A lot of our field dogs tend to attract burrs,” she says.

The fastest and safest way to remove burrs, according to Anderson, is to treat them with a detangling grooming product such as a silicone spray. “My favorite is Cowboy Magic,” she says. “It’s a horse-grooming product for manes and tails, but it’s safe for dogs, too. Spraying it onto a burr, even one that’s badly tangled in your dog’s hair, makes the burr easy to remove with a comb or your fingers.”

Grooming educator Barbara Bird agrees, saying, “Silicone is a wildly effective and useful ingredient found in many pet care products but one that is often misunderstood. Some brands advertise that they contain ‘no silicone’ as if that were a bonus. Rumor has it that silicone builds up on hair and damages it by causing yellowing and breakage. This may have been true of early silicone-based products, but times have changed.

Unlike the silicones of yesteryear, modern products don’t build up in the hair.” Bird’s favorite silicone detangler for dogs is Maxx Best Shot Detangler & Conditioner.

Those who prefer more natural-sounding ingredients will find them in Skout’s Honor Probiotic Pet Detangler, which contains beneficial bacteria, fermented figs and lemons, coconut or avocado oils, and omega fatty acids, or in Hoof & Paw’s Natural Detangling Spray, which contains aloe vera, argan oil, vegetable glycerin, vinegar, silk peptides, and guar gum. “These products will work,” says Anderson, “but in general, burrs are more difficult to remove with products that don’t contain silicone.”

How to Get Burrs Out of Dog Hair Without a Detangler

For those who don’t have a detangling product handy and who have a burr-covered dog, most experts recommend assembling these do-it-yourself tools:

  • A wide-toothed metal comb
  • A fine-toothed comb, flea comb, or hair pick
  • A brush to use as a final step
  • Tweezers or a pin or needle to help loosen burr-entangled hair
  • A pair of pilers to crush hard-to-remove burrs
  • Coconut oil or a similar edible vegetable oil
  • Towels, paper towels, or absorbent fabric to help with cleanup
  • Gloves, such as flexible gardening gloves, to protect your hands
  • Treats

Burrs that adhere to the surface of your dog’s coat may be easy to remove with your fingers. Untangle a burr gently to release it without pulling your dog’s hair. If desired, wear flexible gloves to help prevent your fingers from being pricked by sharp points.

Coconut and other vegetable oils help release snarls and tangles, so if your dog has picked up several burrs, apply the oil directly to and around the burrs and let it saturate the area. “The down side of edible oils is that they can stain truck seats, furniture, and clothing, so cleaning your dog’s coat after the burrs are gone is a good idea,” says Anderson.

If the burr is tightly tangled, use tweezers, a pin, or a sewing needle to gently pull hair from burr tangles, then use a wide-toothed metal dog comb or hair pick to gently lift a loosely attached burr by working your comb under the burr.

If necessary, crush a burr with pliers to break it into smaller pieces, which will be easier to remove.

After removing visible burrs, feel gently all over your dog’s coat to check for burrs hidden under the hair’s surface. Then thoroughly brush your dog’s coat.

“Sometimes a dog picks up so many burrs that the project seems overwhelming,” says Anderson. “In that case, a trip to a groomer can solve the problem. Experienced groomers often find that a burr infestation is far less serious than the owner assumes. Cutting burrs from your dog’s coat with scissors is not recommended. It’s definitely worth checking with a groomer if you’re not able to easily remove your dog’s burrs.”

Keep Treats Handy for Easier Burr Removal

You’ll need your dog’s cooperation to remove burrs because if he or she pulls, runs away, or refuses to hold still, the project can be painful, lengthy, and unpleasant for both of you. Skip boring treats like routine kibble and offer high-reward treats that will seriously distract and reward your dog. It may help to have another human on hand to keep your dog calm while you remove burrs.

Tips for Preventing Burr Problems

Regular brushing will help your dog avoid burrs, especially if your dog has a long or thick coat. Brushing can remove hair that your dog is about to shed, which streamlines a coat that would otherwise attract burrs.

Learn to recognize plants and bushes that contain burrs and avoid them or put your dog in a protective coat for walks. When you get home, check your dog’s hair, especially between toes, behind ears, in armpits, around the tail, and under the belly.

Angie Anderson recommends having a dog professionally groomed before leaving on hunting or camping trips or vacations that will expose your dog to burrs. “This means trimming the belly and leg hair to reduce exposure,” she explains. “I also recommend spraying the coat with a silicone spray or leave-in conditioner, then brushing it through the coat before you go out into the field. If you do that, your dog is unlikely to pick up any burrs at all. If burrs do show up, they’ll comb right out, or if they don’t, simply dampen the burrs with conditioner and let it sit for a while.”

Why Balanced Dog Training Isn’t Recommended

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
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2
Balanced dog training is not an ideal mix between positive and aversive conditioning as the negatives outweighs the positive.
When it comes to both teaching new skills and modifying undesirable behaviors in dogs, research supports using non-aversive methods. Credit: mheim3011 | Getty Images

Finding the right dog trainer is essential when looking to provide quality education and guidance for your dog or puppy or to address specific behavioral concerns you might have. However, navigating the dog training industry can be stressful and confusing when you encounter so many different philosophies, training methods, and points of view.

There are two main camps when it comes to dog training methods: Positive reinforcement trainers (other descriptors include force free or fear-free) and balanced dog trainers (other descriptors include dominance, aversive, punishment, or compulsion-based training). The focus of this article is to delve into balanced dog training, what it is, and why balanced training is not recommended. So, what is balanced dog training and what does science have to say about its use.

What is Balanced Dog Training?

The term “balanced dog training” is often misunderstood to mean taking a holistic approach to teaching dogs. However, in the dog training world “balanced” refers to the use of both aversive and non-aversive training methods.

As mentioned above, the majority of dog trainers can be divided into those that utilize only non-aversive methods (i.e. positive reinforcement trainers) and those that utilize a mix of non-aversive and aversive methods (i.e. balanced trainers). Both groups follow the work of psychologist B.F. Skinner, whose theory of operant conditioning divides experiences that shape behavior into four quadrants. Non-aversive trainers use two of the four quadrants: positive reinforcement (adding a rewarding stimulus to increase the likelihood of a behavior being repeated) and negative punishment (removing a rewarding stimulus to decrease the likelihood of a behavior being repeated).

Balanced dog trainers use these two quadrants as well as the remaining two: positive punishment (adding an unpleasant stimulus to decrease the likelihood a behavior will be repeated) and negative reinforcement (removing an unpleasant stimulus to increase the likelihood a behavior will be repeated).

QUADRANTS OF OPERANT CONDITIONING
Positive Reinforcement (R+)

Add something good

 Positive Punishment (P+)

Add something bad
Negative Reinforcement (R-)

Remove something bad

 Negative Punishment (P-)

Remove something good

 

What Does Science Say About Balanced Dog Training?

The scientific community has paid increased attention to the ethical and welfare implications of different dog training methods in recent years. In light of this, a growing body of research is showing that dogs trained using aversive techniques (e.g. leash jerks with a choke or prong collar, shock delivery through e-collars, hitting or yelling at the dog) experience poorer welfare both within and outside the training context compared to dogs trained with reward-based (positive reinforcement) methods (Cooper et al., 2014; de Castro et al., 2020).

Although positive punishment in dog training has been shown to be effective, research has demonstrated that it’s no more effective than positive reinforcement. For example, in stopping problematic chasing behavior, the use of e-collars did not lead to significantly higher rates of owner-reported success than solely rewards-based (non-aversive) methods in a study of sheep chasing (Cooper et al., 2014). Dogs trained with aversive methods have often shown more stress-related behaviors such as yawning, backward-oriented ears, or avoidance behaviors than those in non-aversive conditions.

Studies have shown that, beyond immediate welfare effects, dogs exposed to aversive training methods were less successful at completing a novel training task and showed a more pessimistic bias on a spatial cognitive bias test than those trained with non-aversive methods. They were also less interactive during play solicited by an owner, less likely to interact with a stranger in a relaxed environment, spent less time gazing at their owners during training, and showed avoidance behavior whereas dogs trained using non-aversive methods did not (Johnson & Wynne, 2024).

The majority of research suggests that dog training methods based on positive reinforcement are less stressful, more effective, more humane, and do not negatively impact welfare or the human-animal bond (China et al., 2020). In recognition of this, prominent animal welfare and behavior organizations around the world have released position statements on humane dog training supporting the use of positive reinforcement and avoiding the use of aversives. These include the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior and the Animal Behavior Society.

How to Effectively and Humanely Modify Undesirable Behavior in Dogs

The most effective and humane way to train or modify undesirable behavior in dogs is to use a combination of positive reinforcement, negative punishment, and appropriate management strategies. These approaches are backed by a body of research in learning theory and applied behavior analysis and are widely endorsed by animal behavior and veterinary experts and organizations worldwide.

Positive Reinforcement (R+)

Positive reinforcement involves adding something the dog values (e.g. treat, praise, or pat) immediately following a desired behavior to increase the likelihood that behavior will be repeated. For example:

  • Giving the dog a treat when they sit instead of jumping
  • Offering praise or a pat when the dog is lying calmly on their bed

By consistently reinforcing desired behavior you can teach your dog what to do rather than just trying to stop them doing what you don’t want them to. This strategy builds trust and a positive association, strengthening the bond between you and your dog.

Negative Punishment (P-)

Negative punishment involves removing access to something the dog wants—without using fear or intimidation—to decrease the likelihood of an undesirable behavior being repeated. For example:

  • Turning away and removing attention when your dog jumps up
  • Pausing play when your puppy mouths too hard

This teaches your dog that certain behaviors result in the loss of rewards, encouraging them to choose alternative behaviors that keep the good things coming.

Environmental Management

Managing the environment helps set dogs up for success by helping to prevent them rehearsing unwanted behaviors. Effective management reduces triggers to problem behaviors (e.g. closing blinds to reduce reactive barking to passersby), prevents reinforcement of undesired behavior (e.g. using baby gates to stop access to the bins) and supports learning by helping the dog consistently practice appropriate behaviors. It’s important to consistently teach your dog desired behaviors through positive reinforcement in conjunction with environmental management.

This humane and evidence-based approach works because it promotes long-term behavior change, avoids the risks of positive punishment (such as fear, stress, and aggression) and strengthens the bond between owner and dog. Focusing on positive reinforcement, kind guidance, and thoughtful management helps dogs learn more effectively and supports their emotional and physical wellbeing.

References

China, L., Mills, D. S., & Cooper, J. J. (2020). Efficacy of dog training with and without remote electronic collars vs. a focus on positive reinforcement. Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 7, 547533.

Cooper, J. J., Cracknell, N., Hardiman, J., Wright, H., & Mills, D. (2014). The welfare consequences and efficacy of training pet dogs with remote electronic training collars in comparison to reward based training. PloS one, 9(9), e102722.

de Castro, A. C. V., Fuchs, D., Morello, G. M., Pastur, S., de Sousa, L., & Olsson, I. A. S. (2020). Does training method matter? Evidence for the negative impact of aversive-based methods on companion dog welfare. Plos one, 15(12), e0225023.

Johnson, A. C., & Wynne, C. D. (2024). Training Methods Used by Dog Guardians in the United States: Prevalence, Sources of Information, and Reasons for Use. Animals, 14(9), 1310.

 

Informing? Or Selling?

By
Nancy Kerns
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4
An old fashioned TV pitch man tries to sell a box of something.
When someone is bashing an entire industry and selling the only healthy alternative, take their information with a block of salt. Credit: jgroup, Getty Images

A couple of days ago, I received a text from a dog-training client, wondering about a video she had just watched—and which she linked in the text. “Is meat meal bad for dogs?” she asked. She followed that message with, “I get that she’s selling her own pet food, but is it (meat meal) that bad?”

The funny thing is, she must have been on a dog-nutrition-video-watching binge, because the video she linked had nothing to say about meat meal at all; it was another “informative” video from a different pet-food influencer. I was familiar with the one from the actress; but I hadn’t seen this particular one from the veterinarian, and I had a few minutes, so I clicked on it. However, I only made it about a quarter of the way through the 40-minute video, which I found to be a confusing mish-mash of facts: some true, many conflated, and many others presented in an incomplete fashion that would lead most people to a flat-out incorrect conclusion.

The creator promises to spill the beans about the three most dangerous ingredients found in the most popular dog food brands—which could lead to sickness, depression, “bad digestion,” joint pain, or even cancer! (These turn out to be preservatives—and not differentiating between natural and artificial preservatives—“fillers,” and meat by-products.)

Also, he promises to tell you about three super nutrients that will give a dog the “longest, healthiest life possible,” alleging that “most canine diets miss at least one of these and many miss two or three,” which can lead to “a sad, depressed dog or in some dogs, high anxiety, excess barking or strange eating habits.” (I’m saving you at least five minutes by telling you that these are organ meat, Omega 3 fatty acids, and prebiotics. And hey, don’t give it a moment’s thought that organ meats make up a goodly share of meat by-products.)

Many of the “facts” in this video (and the many others that I have seen like it from this creator and others, including the actresses and various celebrity dog trainers), are partially true, or have some connection to a true thing, but accepting them as whole cloth generally leads many dog owners to conclude that most commercial dog food is dangerous—and only the foods made and sold by the video creators’ companies are truly healthy and nutritious. And that’s just nuts! And probably fairly profitable for the creators.

I sent my client a link to an article I wrote a few years ago about meat and meat meal and told her not to worry—and not to fall for all the claims in videos like the ones she’s watching. Yes, they are selling their own pet foods, and as healthy as they might be, they aren’t the only ones that are healthy, nor do you have to spend a fortune to feed your dog a healthy diet.

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The 5 Best Dog Treat Pouches for Training, Hiking, and Dog Walks

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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2
There are a variety of treat pouches available to dog owners. Which is the best dog treat pouch depends on whether you're hiking, walking, or training.
When it comes to picking a dog treat pouch, a lot depends on what you plan to use it for. Credit: Jae Thomas

Whether you have a nervous pup who needs lots of counter-conditioning or you just want to keep your dog’s recall sharp, carrying treats with you in a dog treat pouch is vital. You never know when a training opportunity will arise, and one of the best ways to positively reinforce your dog is with a tasty snack.

We tested five popular options and came up with the best dog treat pouches and bags for hiking, training, and more. Read on for how we tested and our top picks:

Traits We Want in a Dog Treat Pouch

  • Ease of use: A dog treat pouch should be easy to wear, easy to fill, easy to open and close, and easy to clean. We prioritized the pouches that stayed on, were comfortable to wear, and felt hassle-free to use.
  • Size range: We prioritized treat pouches that offered solid capacity options and could fit a good amount of food. We also looked for options that would comfortably fit a wide variety of people.
  • Spill-proof design: Treat pouches that constantly spill are more annoying than useful. Whether you’re bending down to reward a small dog or running alongside your pup, your treats should stay firmly inside your treat pouch. We prioritized options with reliable closures that didn’t spill.
  • Extra features: Extra features like poop bag dispensers, water bottle compartments, or room for your phone and keys are big pluses.

The 5 Best Dog Treat Pouches

RatingProduct and MakerPriceCapacityNotes
Wilderdog Utility Pack$362.5 LitersThis moderately sized pack is big enough to house plenty of treats, a roll of poop bags, and all your everyday carry items like your phone, keys, and wallet.
Wilderdog Mega Hip Pack$483 LitersThis pack is gigantic in a good way. Three separate compartments, two water bottle holders, and a built-in poop bag dispenser make it the best pick for hiking with your dog.
Voila Mini Ultimate Treat Pouch$490.35 litersA silicone treat pouch is best for raw-fed dogs or folks who use fresh treats that get messy. The Voila Mini requires a bit of setup and care but is easy to clean and feels durable.
Ruffwear Treat Trader Dog Treat Pouch$39.95Not listedIf you don’t need all the bells and whistles of a fancy treat pouch, the Ruffwear Treat Trader is functional and simple. You can’t fit your phone and keys in this option, but it’s durable and easy to open and close with one hand.
Wild One Treat Pouch$44Not listedFor the style savants out there, the Wild One Treat Pouch looks more like a fashion accessory than a piece of dog gear. It’s easy to open and close and comes in muted colors, but doesn’t always close all the way.

Best Dog Treat Pouch: Wilderdog Utility Pack

The best dog treat pouch reviewed is the Wilderdog Utility Pack.
The Wilderdog Utility Pack is our favorite of the dog treat pouches tested for its versatility, durability, and ease-of-use. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Wilderdog Utility Pack has been my go-to dog treat bag for over four years. It held up to years of tough, nearly daily use and just a few months ago, I accidentally broke one of the zippers. My partner almost immediately bought me another one because he knew I loved it so much.

This dog treat pouch is the perfect size to fit all the necessities comfortably without feeling overly bulky. It has three zippered compartments: large, medium, and small. I usually use the biggest compartment to hold my phone, my keys, a leash, and a collapsible bowl, the medium compartment to hold treats, and the small compartment to hold poop bags.

The smallest compartment has a built-in poop bag dispenser. You can also put treats of different values in the different compartments, which is helpful for training sessions.

The waist strap on this pouch extends up to 48 inches and Wilderdog offers an additional strap extender for an extra 24 inches, so it’s extremely size-inclusive. I also love that any excess strap is held by the built-in strap keeper, so it doesn’t hang loose. The buckle is large and sturdy, but easy to clip and unclip.

This pouch can also be washed on the gentle cycle of your washing machine for easy cleanup — just remember to hang dry it.

At $36 and with a multiple-year lifetime, the Wilderdog Utility Pack is easily the best dog treat pouch I’ve tested.

Best Dog Treat Pouch for Hiking: Wilderdog Mega Hip Pack

The mega hip back is the best dog treat pouch for hikers thanks to the extra space for additional water and gear.
If you’re looking to carry more gear and water in addition to treats, the Wilderdog Mega Hip Pack is a good option. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you regularly go on long outings with your dog, or you need enough treats and gear for multiple dogs, the Wilderdog Mega Hip Pack is your best option. It’s hilariously large, but still functional and works best for hiking.

The two water bottle compartments on the side fit a regular plastic water bottle or smaller dog water bottles. Wilderdog also makes an eco-friendly plastic bottle that fits in these compartments. This pack is perfect for folks who live in a hot climate and need to bring water along on dog walks, but also like going hands-free.

Aside from the two side water bottle compartments, the Mega Hip Pack is essentially a larger version of the Utility Pack. It features three zippered compartments and a poop bag dispenser, and is large enough to carry your phone, a collapsible dog bowl, a roll of poop bags, an extra leash, and tons of treats, along with two water bottles.

At $48, this dog treat bag is on the pricier side, but it will basically replace a tote bag or backpack while still giving you easy access to your gear and keeping you hands-free while adventuring with your dog.

Best Silicone Dog Treat Pouch: Voila Mini Ultimate Treat Pouch

A silicone treat pouch is the best dog treat pouch for owners who use messy or raw treats as it can be easily cleaned.
The Voila Mini Ultimate Treat Pouch works well if you want to carry raw or moist treats for your dog. Credit: Jae Thomas

Folks who feed their dog raw, refrigerated, or messy treats should go for the Voila Mini Ultimate Treat Pouch. This silicone treat pouch has a spring-assisted closure that keeps treats fresh when you’re not using it but is still easy to open and close.

This pouch requires a little bit of setup when taking it out of the box, as you have to attach the belt, keeper, and buckle to the pouch. It also has specific care requirements, like occasional lubrication of the spring-assisted joints. This pouch requires more care and is a bit heavier than traditional fabric treat pouches, but it also feels extremely well-made.

The Voila Mini is dishwasher safe, but the brand recommends handwashing to keep the pouch in the best condition possible. It’s made of food-grade silicone and won’t absorb any smells or germs like fabric treat pouches, which is especially important if you use fresh treats like cheese, chicken, and deli meats or raw/freeze-dried raw snacks for your dog.

The mini version holds 12 ounces of treats and is lightweight with a thin waist strap. The brand also offers larger versions if you have a big dog or plan on feeding entire meals from the pouch.

Best Dog Training Treat Pouch: Ruffwear Treat Trader Dog Treat Pouch

The Ruffwear Treat Trader is a the best dog treat pouch for simple everyday training.
The Ruffwear Treat Trader is a simple but solid choice for everyday dog training. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you just need a simple treat pouch for training sessions, the Ruffwear Treat Trader is a solid option. It has a water-resistant outer shell that works great in inclement weather and the inner liner is waterproof, so messy treats won’t leak through the layers of fabric.

This pouch has both a waist strap and a clip to attach to a belt or pants, but the waist strap is much more secure. The magnetic closure is pretty good, but small crumbs will occasionally spill out if you bend down a lot while wearing it. The pull tab on the magnetic closure, however, is super handy for opening the pouch with one hand.

The Treat Trader is described as ergonomic, and the curvature of the top of the bag can be adjusted so it best suits your body.

This pouch won’t fit your keys, phone, and other everyday carry items, but it’s a good simple option if all you need to take with you are treats and maybe a few poop bags.

Most Stylish Dog Treat Pouch: Wild One Treat Pouch

The Wild One Treat Pouch is the best dog treat pouch for the fashion conscious who are averse to fanny pack style treat pouches.
If you want a treat pouch that doesn’t have to be worn around your waist, the Wild One Treat Pouch is a comfortable cross-body option. Credit: Jae Thomas

For those who want a dog treat pouch that doesn’t look like a dog treat pouch, the Wild One Treat Pouch is a good option. This pouch looks more like a sleek shoulder bag than dog gear and holds a solid amount of treats. It can be worn as either a fanny pack or a cross-body bag, and comes in muted, minimal colorways.

This pouch can easily be opened with one hand and the metal frame closure keeps it mostly closed when not in use. With that being said, this pouch doesn’t close 100% of the way and can’t be sealed shut, so if you regularly bend down or run, you may spill treats. This option is best for folks who stick to calm training walks as opposed to active jogs or play sessions with their dog.

The Deadly Foxtail: What to Know as a Dog Owner

By
Joan Merriam
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0
Foxtail awls can be a deadly danger to dogs and their unwary owners.
Although foxtails don’t look particularly dangerous to dogs, the awns can burrow into soft tissue and cause potentially deadly complications. Credit: 07Kevin | Getty Images

You can find them from Portland to Poughkeepsie, from Boston to Blackwater…in fact, you’ll find them almost every state in the nation.  Despite their sweet-sounding name, they’re one of the most noxious and detested plants in North America: the foxtail. They can also be deadly to your dog.

First, let’s get some nomenclature out of the way. Foxtails are a weedy grass in the grass family of Poaceae, which includes everything from wild rice to bluegrass to sugarcane. Except for knotroot foxtail—the oldest cultivated cereal in the Americas that dates to almost 9000 BCE—none of the foxtail grasses are native to North America. They likely originated in Africa and entered North America with the prehistoric migrations of the ancestors of Native Americans across the Bering Straits land bridge.

What is a Foxtail?

Foxtails are clusters of tall, slender weeds with long, drooping leaf blades; their stems are topped by bristly, spike-like panicles that have a soft, bushy appearance that vaguely resemble a fox’s tail—hence, the name “foxtail.” Plants germinate in the spring, with flowering beginning in mid-summer as days begin to shorten. The first seeds mature about two weeks after the panicle flowers; then, as the plant begins to dry out in the summer months, the seed heads become brittle and fall off.

What Makes Foxtails So Dangerous to Dogs?

While cases of foxtail infiltration occur throughout the year in warm climates, these weeds are especially dangerous during summer and early fall, when they have dried out and hardened. All foxtail spikes (awns) have a hardened tip and retrose (backward-pointing) barbs which disconnect easily and cling to animal fur—or in the case of humans, to socks, mesh-topped shoes, and any clothing with loose weaves or textures. In animals, the barbs, which point in only one direction, cling to the fur, and with every movement, burrow deeper into the coat. For wild mammals, their fur is usually short enough that the foxtail awns will eventually fall out before doing damage.

The same cannot be said of our dogs.

Foxtail awns easily penetrate soft tissue, traveling throughout the body for days or even months before clinical signs appear. Often, an abscess will emerge where the awn has settled, necessitating surgical removal. Dogs often pick up foxtails between their toes, where the foot’s movement allows the awn to burrow ever more deeply until it punctures the skin. It’s also extremely common for dogs to get foxtail awns in their nostrils, where they can aspirate them.

Inhaled foxtails can cause lung infections and pneumonia, pyothorax (infected chest cavity), or pneumothorax (punctured lung), and can travel into the brain and cause seizures or death; foxtails in the ears can rupture eardrums or cause chronic ear infections; foxtails in the eye can lead to conjunctivitis or even blindness; and when they migrate, foxtails can cause infection of the spinal vertebra and intervertebral disc, or penetrate the body through the chest or abdominal wall. If ingested, the awns can embed themselves in the dog’s gums, tonsils, esophagus, or stomach; this can lead to excessive drooling, inability to eat, and in worst-case scenarios, perforation of the gastrointestinal tract and peritonitis, a serious and often fatal condition in dogs.

Long-haired dogs are especially vulnerable to foxtails, as the awns have more hair to secure themselves onto. Hunting dogs are also susceptible to picking up foxtails because they spend so much time in tall grasses. Although there are no definitive studies on dog deaths caused by foxtails, one veterinarian says she sees one to two foxtail deaths per year among her canine patients.

What Are the Signs of an Embedded Foxtail?

Much depends upon where the foxtail is lodged.  Some of the most common signs of a new foxtail incident are head shaking, limping, constant licking of one spot on the body, pawing at the face, and snorting or sneezing. Some indicators can show up days or weeks later; these include unusual lumps or bumps, red or tender areas, inflammation, decreased appetite, and lethargy. If the awn has traveled to a vital organ such as the lung or heart it can cause symptoms specific to that organ.

Where do Foxtails Grow?

The U.S. is home to three species of foxtails: yellow foxtail, green foxtail, and giant foxtail. All are known by other common names, including yellow or green bristlegrass, bristly or golden foxtail, wild or foxtail millet, pigeongrass, and nodding foxtail. Yellow and green foxtails range in size from one to two feet, but the giant foxtail can grow up to four feet tall.

Foxtails grow in almost any type of soil and environmental condition, including pastures, lawns, gardens, roadsides, and ditches. The Weed Science Society of America ranks foxtail as one of the most common weeds in the nation. It doesn’t grow in some lucky parts of the country—namely Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Virginia—but can be found in the rest of the U.S.

When is Foxtail Season?

There isn’t really a “foxtail season,” since every part of the country is a little different: for instance, in the cool, wet northwest, the season begins in June and lasts until August. In warmer, drier parts of the U.S., it can begin as early April and extend through September.

How Can Dogs be Kept Safe from Foxtails?

If you have property where foxtails are abundant, the best thing you can do is pull them out in the spring or mow them down later. Avoid taking your dog to areas with foxtails or tall grasses; if you do walk through fields or along roadsides where foxtails could be growing, check your dog afterward for visible awns, especially between their toes, in their ears, on their face, and in their armpits and groin areas. Keep the fur on your dog’s feet trimmed as short as possible.

Some veterinarians suggest that dogs who roam in foxtail-prone regions should wear a special lightweight, mesh hood that covers their heads and faces.

Other Barbed Grasses

You may live in a region of the country where foxtails are rare but that doesn’t mean you can relax. There are a number of other grasses that pose dangers to your dog.

Cheatgrass (AKA Downy Brome). Cheatgrass is an invasive annual grass that’s now found in at least 49 states and has adapted to thrive in areas with wet winters and hot, dry summers. Like foxtails, cheatgrass has awns that can easily burrow into your dog, causing the same problems that foxtail does. Native to Europe and eastern Asia, it found its way to America through European settlers in the 1800s.

Needlegrasses. North American is home to various species of needlegrass, with much of it found in western regions. During spring, livestock feed on needlegrasses, but once they dry out they have seed heads with sharp, barbed awns that can detach from the plant and easily penetrate skin and other tissues.

Spear grass. Spear grass is native to the tropics and subtropics of Africa, Southern Asia, Northern Australia and Oceania and is naturalized in tropical and subtropical areas of the U.S.  Like other barbed grasses, when dry its head contains sharp awns that can burrow into dogs’ skin and orifices.

Wild barley, foxtail barley, skunk-tall grass, flicker-tail grass, tickle grass. These are all common names for a type of perennial short-lived cool season bunchgrass native to almost all of the U.S. except for the Southeast.  Often found in pastures, roadsides, meadows, alkaline/saline areas, moist soils and disturbed areas, it features the same spiky awns found on other barbed grasses.

Bromegrass. Native to western North America from Alaska to northern Mexico, there are over 40 species of bromegrass in the U.S., many of which are also dangerous to dogs because of their sharp awns that develop in summer.

Is Goat Milk Good for Dogs?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Goat milk can be good for young dogs who have the enzymes needed to process it. However, older dogs may struggle with the lactose.
A puppy has the enzyme necessary to digest goat milk (or any milk!), but it disappears as the dog grows and stops drinking milk. Credit: Surely | Getty Images

Goat milk has gained popularity among dog owners as a superfood that is a natural source of nutrients and digestive support. It’s true that goat milk contains vitamins, minerals, and probiotics, but is it really a good choice for adult dogs?

To answer that, look at the composition of goat milk, particularly its lactose (natural sugar) content, and how it aligns with a dog’s digestive capabilities, especially considering that dogs, like all adult mammals besides humans, lose the ability to fully digest milk after puppyhood.

To properly digest lactose, the body needs an enzyme called lactase, which breaks it down into useable forms. Puppies produce lactase while nursing, allowing them to digest their mother’s milk efficiently. However, as dogs grow and are weaned off milk, their production of lactase decreases, and they eventually lose the ability to produce it. This means that adult dogs are lactose-intolerant and giving them dairy products can lead to digestive upset, including gas, bloating, and diarrhea.

Goat Milk Can Cause Problems in Dogs

Goat milk is touted as being lower in lactose and more easily digested when compared to cow’s milk. Compared to cow’s milk, goat milk does contain less lactose—on average 4.2% for goat milk compared to 4.8% for cow’s milk. While this is a small difference, it can make goat milk somewhat easier to digest for dogs. Additionally, the fat globules in goat milk are smaller and generally more easily digested during digestion, which may improve tolerance in some dogs.

However, the fact remains that goat milk still contains a significant amount of lactose, especially when compared to dog’s milk, which has only about 2.7% to 3.9% lactose, depending on the breed. This is important because even goat milk, while slightly gentler, is still likely to cause problems in dogs, especially when fed in large amounts or frequently. For adult dogs, whose bodies no longer produce the enzyme necessary to digest milk sugars, lactose-containing milk products can be problematic, regardless of the species they are sourced from.

Reduced Lactose Goat Milk for Dogs

If you are considering adding goat milk to your dog’s diet, do it in moderation and ideally with guidance from a veterinarian. Some owners opt for fermented goat milk, such as kefir, which has reduced lactose content due to the fermentation process and may be better tolerated. Other people look for lactose-free or enzyme-treated milk products specifically designed for canine digestion. These products provide all the benefits owners seek from goat milk without the negative effects of lactose.

While goat milk is sometimes better tolerated by dogs compared to cow’s milk, it is not lactose-free and may cause digestive upset in adult dogs. If you’re looking to support your dog’s gut health or provide extra nutrients, opt for lactose-free goat milk or alternative dietary supplements.

How to Safely Lift and Carry a Dog

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
There are ways to safely carry dogs whether they are large or small.
When picking up or moving a large dog, do not grab the dog by his chest. Support his weight with an arm around his rear end. Credit: Phynart Studio | Getty Images

The ability to pick up a large dog requires more than just strength. You need to use the proper technique, understand canine anatomy, and pay careful attention to your large dog’s comfort and safety.

Whether you are helping your dog into a vehicle, lifting them onto a grooming or exam table, or assisting a senior dog up the stairs, knowing how to properly pick up, hold, and carry a large dog can prevent injury for both you can your pet. Mishandling a big dog, even with the best intentions, can cause stress, pain, or worsen underlying conditions, especially in dogs with joint issues, injuries, or mobility concerns.

Before Picking up the Dog

Before attempting to pick up your dog, assess the situation and determine whether it is truly necessary to carry them. Even the nicest dog may lash out if they are afraid or in pain, so picking them up may not be a safe option.

Many big dogs are heavy enough that picking them up should be done only when necessary, such as in emergencies, recovery from surgeries, or when mobility is compromised. If the situation is not urgent and your dog can move on their own with some encouragement or mild assistance, that is always the safer option.

Proper Form Lifting a Heavy Dog

One of the most important aspects of lifting a big dog is maintaining proper body mechanics. Watch this excellent video that shows how to properly pick up a big dog.

https://youtu.be/wMrwwYbxstI

Remember, just like lifting heavy objects, picking up a large dog requires using your legs, not your back:

  • Stand with your knees shoulder-width apart and bend at the knees, not at the waist, keeping your back straight.
  • Move calmly and confidently, as quick, jerky movements can startle a dog.
  • Place one hand around the front of your dog’s chest, at the base of their front legs, to support the dog’s weight and keep them stable.
  • Place your other arm behind your dog’s back legs to support their back half without placing pressure on their abdomen. This two-arm method distributed the dog’s weight evenly and prevents unnecessary strain. If your dog is too large for this, or if they have arthritic hips or joint pain, placing one arm under their chest behind their front legs with your other arm just in front of their hind legs, under the abdomen, is an alternative.
  • With your arms in place and your dog feeling secure, slowly straighten your legs to lift, keeping your dog close to your body to maintain balance. The closer your dog is to your core, the more stable you will be.

Mobility Harnesses

For giant breed dogs or dogs weighing over 100 pounds, lifting your dog manually may not be practical. In these cases, equipment can make all the difference. Mobility harnesses with handles, rear-end slings, or dog stretchers are incredibly useful tools. These devices are designed specifically to support a dog’s body in a safe and ergonomic way, reducing stress on your dog’s spine and joints while also minimizing the effort required on your part. Harnesses with front and rear handles allow for two-person lifts and are particularly helpful for dogs recovering from surgery or those with chronic mobility issues such as arthritis or hip dysplasia.

Knowing how to safely pick up, hold, and carry your dog is part of being prepared for life’s unexpected moments, but if you find yourself needing to lift your dog frequently or if your dog struggles with mobility, consult with your veterinarian to explore some long-term solutions.

MSM for Dogs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
MSM for dogs is a supplement that can help dogs maintain their joint health as they age.
Just like us, dogs put tremendous wear and tear on their joints. MSM is a strong ingredient to include in your choice of a joint supplement for dogs. Credit: Hillary Kladke | Getty Images

MSM is included in most dog arthritis supplements for good reason. It works and has research backing up its use. MSM is methylsulfonylmethane, a naturally occurring compound made up of sulfur, carbon, and oxygen. Although it can be found in small amounts in certain plant and animal products, it is most commonly produced synthetically for use in dietary supplements. In both human and veterinary supplements, MSM is used for its anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties, making it a valuable tool in managing a variety of chronic health conditions, particularly those affecting joints.

MSM to Reduce Dog Joint Inflammation

One of MSM’s most well-known benefits is its ability to reduce inflammation. Chronic inflammation is a main culprit behind the joint pain experienced by dogs suffering from arthritis, degenerative joint disease, or previous injuries. This ongoing inflammatory response not only causes pain but can also contribute to further joint deterioration over time. MSM helps reduce the production of inflammatory compounds, targeting the root of discomfort rather than merely masking the symptoms. This reduction in inflammation can significantly improve your dog’s mobility and overall comfort, especially during activities that were once difficult or painful.

MSM for Pain in Dogs

In addition to its anti-inflammatory properties, MSM has mild analgesic effects, helping to relieve pain. When pain relief is paired with a decrease in inflammation, the result can be a noticeable happier and more active dog. Pet owners often report seeing their dogs become more energetic and willing to engage in activities they had previously avoided. These improvements mark significant step forward in restoring your pet’s quality of life.

What Is MSM?

MSM is a compound rich in organic sulfur, which is essential for many biological processes and necessary for the synthesis of collagen and glucosamine, key components for healthy cartilage and connective tissue. Cartilage acts as a cushion between the bones in joints. As dogs age, this cartilage can break down leading to painful bone-on-bone contact. By supplying the body with the sulfur it needs, MSM supports the rebuilding and maintenance of these tissues. Some studies suggest that MSM may enhance the absorption of other joint-supportive nutrients like glucosamine and chondroitin. This synergistic effect is part of what makes MSM such a popular component in many joint supplement blends.

Which MSM Supplement for My Dog?

MSM supplements are available in a variety of forms including powders, capsules, soft chews, and liquids, making it easy to incorporate into your dog’s daily routine. Whether used on its own or as a part of a multi-ingredient joint care formula, MSM is a natural compound with the potential to offer meaningful and lasting relief for your pet.

When purchasing supplements, look for the NASC seal. That’s indication that the manufacturer is a member of the National Animal Supplement Council. Member manufacturers voluntarily submit their products for testing and approval, which indicates to the consumer that the products contain the ingredients listed on the label and the sources of those ingredients are NASC-approved.

Note: The only exception to this is products from Nutramax. This company was one of the original manufacturers of supplements for animals. They were a leader in producing groundbreaking research on ingredients, dosages, and quality control for animal supplements. They remain an undisputed giant in quality control and research.

You can purchase MSM for dogs without any other ingredients. WDJ top choices are:

  • NaturVet MSM
  • PeakTails MSM
  • VitaFlex MSM

That said, we prefer to use MSM as a strong ingredient to include in multi-ingredient joint products. Look for glucosamine, chondroitin, green-lipped mussel, and MSM. The WDJ top five joint supplements that include MSM in the mix are:

  • Nutramax Cosequin
  • Nutramax Dasuquin
  • Zesty Paws Hip and Joint Bites
  • The Missing Link Hip and Joint Powder
  • VetriScience Healthy Hip and Joint

Note: It is important to note that, while this article focuses on MSM, fish oil shouldn’t be overlooked as a strong supplement to support joint health.

For many dogs, especially those experiencing age-related joint degeneration or pets recovering from orthopedic injuries or procedures, MSM can play a significant role in improving mobility, easing pain, and supporting long-term joint health. Always consult your veterinarian before beginning any new supplement, but if joint pain is impacting your dog’s quality of life, MSM is certainly worth considering as a part of a wholistic approach to your dog’s care.

Don’t Adopt Littermates

By
Nancy Kerns
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13
Most trainers don't recommend adopting littermates.
It’s very tempting to take two pups from the same litter. But most experts advise against it. Credit: Nancy Kerns

You’ve gone to the shelter, excited about the photos they posted on social media of a big litter of pups that look like just the kind you’ve been waiting for. It’s near closing time—you couldn’t get there until after you got off work!—and the shelter staff is clearly buttoning things up for the night. It turns out that the litter was popular; there are just two puppies left from which to choose! As you approach their pen, you see that the littermates are entwined in a small single dog bed. They blink at you sleepily, and then approach the front of the kennel to greet you, almost as one—and the thought of taking one home, leaving the other completely alone in the cold concrete shelter kennel, brings tears to your eyes. They are clearly so bonded! How much harder could it be to raise two dogs, you think to yourself? If we adopt both, they can keep each other company at home!

STOP! Don’t do it! Whether the idea of adopting two puppies just occurred to you, or you had been planning to adopt two all along, every trainer I’ve ever met would advise you to think twice and adopt just one. Because training and socializing littermates well is more than twice as difficult as training and socializing one puppy.

There have been littermates in several of the group puppy classes I’ve taught recently, and in every case, the family who adopted them looks overwhelmed and sounds regretful about the decision they made to adopt two. It’s noteworthy, also, that each family has told me that if they knew then what they know now, they would not have adopted two. They love their dogs, they are working hard to make it work, but they had no idea that certain things would be so difficult. Things like:

  • One pup is anxious and a little reactive, which the other is generally very calm and takes new things in stride. But when the anxious dog barks and growls at new sights and situations, it makes the other pup bark and grow suspicious also—and increasingly, both dogs bark when they see new people or something unfamiliar!
  • You are crossing the living room when you realize your sock is wet. You discover a series of wet, urine-soaked spots on the carpet. Which pup is having trouble with house training?
  • You find some vomit in the puppy pen. Which one isn’t feeling well? Which one may have swallowed a sock and potentially needs to be taken to the vet?
  • You’re trying to train both puppies the basics: sit, down, stay, etc. Except one puppy leans fast and dives for all the treats, and the other is disinterested in competing . . . So, as time goes by, one pup knows a few things, and the other hasn’t really learned anything at all.
  • One pup had to go to the vet and you’ve discovered that the other is petrified to go outside without his brother. You thought that this pup was just a little less confident without the other, but it turns out that without his guide, he’s terrified of everything!
  • Or, one dog had to go to the vet—and that’s when both dogs starting howling, panicking in their crates, tearing at the crate doors with their paws, vomiting—in an utter panic at being without their littermate. Who knew they were that bonded?

If that last scenario doesn’t give you the shivers, consider this: What if some disaster befell your family, and you had to rehome the dogs? It’s hard enough to find a good home for one adult dog; who will possibly take on two dogs who can’t be separated?

Don’t just take it from me: Here are two articles from the WDJ archives written by professional trainers who have seen it for themselves:

“Are Two Pups Better Than One?”

“Problems with Adopting Two Puppies Simultaenously”

 

Does My Dog Need Electrolytes?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Dog's don't sweat the way that humans do, so electrolytes for dogs have a narrow use case and can even be harmful.
Dogs cool themselves through panting and rarely need electrolyte supplementation unless sick. Note: This dog’s wide, long tongue indicates that the dog may be overheated and needs water and a cool, shady spot to rest and recover. Credit: Eldadcarin | Getty Images

While electrolytes are essential for proper bodily function, most healthy dogs do not require electrolyte supplementation unless they are experiencing significant fluid loss through vomiting or diarrhea.

Humans and dogs have different needs for hydration and electrolyte balance. Most healthy dogs do not require added electrolytes in their diet under normal circumstances. Understanding how dogs regulate their hydration and when electrolyte supplementation is truly needed can help you make informed decisions, especially during times of illness or extreme exertion.

Electrolyte Loss Through Dog Panting

Unlike humans, dogs do not sweat to regulate their body temperature. Instead, they pant. Humans lose a significant amount of electrolytes, including sodium, chloride, potassium, magnesium, and calcium, which is why replenishing them after strenuous exercise or heat exposure is so important for people. Dogs, on the other hand, lose minimal electrolytes through panting, which relies on evaporative cooling of saliva. As a result, giving electrolytes to dogs simply because they are active or because it is a hot day is generally unnecessary and can even lead to electrolyte imbalances if not used correctly. Avoid giving your dog “electrolyte water” or other homemade electrolytes. It’s just not worth the risk.

When Your Dog Needs Electrolytes

The situations where your dog may need electrolyte supplementation are specific. The most common scenarios include vomiting, diarrhea, or severe dehydration caused by illness or heat stroke. In these cases, dogs may lose a significant amount of fluids and electrolytes like sodium, potassium, and chloride, which can disrupt normal cellular function and overall hydration status.

For dogs experiencing these kinds of losses, veterinary-formulated electrolyte fluids, often administered subcutaneously, can help restore balance and support recovery. It is important, however, that any supplementation be done under veterinary guidance, especially for dogs with underlying medical conditions or for those on medications.

The Pedialyte Question for Dogs

Pedialyte, a popular electrolyte drink designed for humans, can sometimes be given to dogs in specific situations, but it should be used with care and fresh water should also be offered. If a dog is experiencing mild dehydration due to vomiting, diarrhea, or heat-related stress, Pedialyte may help replenish lost fluids and electrolytes. However, it is important to choose the unflavored and unsweetened version, as flavored varieties often contain artificial sweeteners such as xylitol, which is toxic to dogs, or added sugars that can upset their stomach further. Even the unflavored type should be offered in small amounts and, ideally, under the guidance of a veterinarian. Pedialyte is not a cure for the underlying cause of dehydration, so if your dog is lethargic, refuses to drink, or shows signs of worsening illness, professional veterinary care is crucial.

Betaine for Canine Hydration

An emerging area of interest in canine hydration is the use of functional ingredients like betaine, a naturally occurring compound found in foods like beets. Betaine acts as an osmolyte, which means it helps cells maintain fluid balance without disrupting normal cellular processes. In simple terms, it helps cells hold on to water more effectively, especially during times of heat or stress.

Unlike electrolyte supplementation, which addresses losses after the fact, betaine works by helping the body maintain hydration in the first place. This makes it particularly useful in scenarios where hydration is a concern, but electrolyte loss is not significant, such as for working or athletic dogs that may be under physical stress but not actively losing fluids through vomiting or diarrhea. By using products like betaine, you can optimize hydration status without unnecessarily loading the body with salts it does not need.

Remember, most dogs only require electrolytes when they are sick with vomiting and/or diarrhea. If your dog is sick, call your veterinarian to ask about electrolyte supplementation and work with the vet to create a plan of care for your pet.

Is the Pavement Too Hot to Walk My Dog?

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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1
There are several ways of gauging whether or not the pavement is too hot to walk your dog.
Hot concrete and blacktop can injure your dog’s paw pads. Try to stick with shaded routes, preferably in the morning or evening when it’s cooler. Credit: Jessica Peterson | Getty Images

Dog walks are the highlight of the day for most dogs. But what about when it’s hot and humid, with the sun beating down on that black asphalt? How do you know if it’s safe to walk your pup then?

Learn to identify the temperature of the area where you want/need to walk. Many experts recommend the “7-second rule.” Place your hand on the pavement/asphalt/surface for 7 seconds. If it’s too hot for you at that time frame or before you even reach 7 seconds, it’s too hot for your dog without protection.

While we find the 7-second rule to be the simplest, if you prefer, you can also use a digital infrared thermometer or consult the chart from the Extension at University of Georgia that lists air temperature and how it affects grass temperature, asphalt temperature, and more. For example, according to the chart, at 2 p.m., on a 91-degree day, the asphalt is 140 degrees. That’s too hot for your dog’s paws. This is your most basic and simplest dog walking temperature chart.

With the information at hand, you can best determine if surfaces like blacktop are too hot for your bare paw dog to walk over.

Summer Dog Walks Are Critical

Walks are important mental enrichment for dogs. It would be a sad thing for dogs to miss them simply because it’s hot outside. Learning how to do this safely is of utmost importance to both the dogs and humans in their lives.

Dog walks don’t always have to be high activity. They just need to be fun for your dog! If you can drive your dogs to a wooded area that offers an abundance of shade and sniffing opportunities, do this.

Bring plenty of water and a bowl for your dog to drink from. Walk slowly and simply allow sniffing and pottying without a goal of getting somewhere. Be mindful of how far away from your vehicle you are walking and allow for the energy needed to get back there safely.

If possible, aim for dirt/grass/mossy terrain versus asphalt and concrete. Know your dog’s limits and breathing abilities and consider their age/overall health/physical fitness levels as well as their color. Dark dogs get hotter faster as do floofy dogs. Double that for a dark floofy dog. Brachycephalic dogs do have breathing handicaps that are even worse when it’s hot.

Schedule Your Dog Walks to Avoid Heat

If you must walk in your own neighborhood that consists of primarily concrete or asphalt surfaces, do the longer walks early in the morning or later at night when it’s a bit cooler.

Make additional potty breaks short and purposeful. Invest in a paw protectant like Musher’s Secret, a highly recommended choice. This not only protects paw pads from ice/cold/salt in the winter, but it also protects from heat in the summer. Booties are also an option if your dog will wear them, but most dogs prefer the balm.

Take fresh water and go slowly and stick to grass when you can. The same rules as above apply. Keep it short with the goal of sniffing and pottying.

Provide extra indoor mental enrichment to make up for shorter walks. Examples can include snuffle mats, lick mats, puzzle toys, search games, and training time.

Tips to Make Hot-Day Dog Walks Safer

  • When it’s hot, do not take lengthy walks or runs. It doesn’t matter whether you can handle this heat, your dog cannot.
  • Take extra care with brachycephalic breeds like Pugs and Frenchies. These dogs cannot breathe normally. Don’t place them in danger.
  • Never leave dogs in your yard unattended in overly warm temperatures for longer than a very short time. Make sure that there is adequate shade available as well as fresh water and even a doggy pool if your dog enjoys such.
  • Check on them frequently, meaning every few minutes in some cases. It doesn’t take long for a heat-related issue to surface.
  • And, of course, never leave your dog in a vehicle in hot and humid temperatures for even a literal minute, even with AC on. In high-humidity temperatures, the AC and the car will be less reliable.
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