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What is a Reactive Dog? Understanding Reactivity

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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0
A dog restrained by a leash attempts to charge another dog on a leash.
For some dogs, the frustration created by a barrier such as a leash or fence can trigger reactive behavior. Photo by Anton Novikov, Getty Images

Reactivity in dogs is an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. “Reactive” doesn’t necessarily imply aggression, although some dogs with reactive behaviors certainly can be aggressive. It just means a dog who gets way too excited over something in her environment—and not just excited as in, “Oh hi, I’m so happy to see you!” Rather, it’s way too excited as in an alarmingly aroused “Bark, bark, bark, lunge,” and maybe even a canine scream or two and possible escalation to biting.

Note that I use the phrase, “a dog with reactive behavior” rather than “reactive dog.” While a dog’s reactive behavior can be overwhelming to her human, it usually only occurs in specific trigger circumstances. Labeling your dog a “reactive dog” reduces her to her least favorable trait, when in fact most of the time she may be a lovely canine companion, especially if you do a good job of managing her exposure to her trigger stimuli.

What Causes a Dog to Display Reactive Behavior?

The most common causes of reactive behavior in dogs are:

  • Excitement/Frustration. We often see this behavior with dogs who have a history of being able to perform a particular behavior and now are prevented from doing so.

The most common example is a dog who has been allowed to regularly greet other dogs at will, both on and off leash, and is now restricted by her leash or a fence. This is known as “leash-reactivity.” These are the dogs who are likely to be socially appropriate if and when they are allowed to greet another dog without restraint.

A reactive chihuahua snarls at the camera.
Understanding what your dog is reacting to is an important part of determining the best way to modify the behavior. Photo by Michelle Kelley Photography, Getty Images

This is often the simplest reactive behavior to modify, as we don’t need to change the dog’s emotional response to her trigger from negative to positive, we just have to tone down her excitement arousal. This dog’s primary motivation is usually not aggression.

However, if her high level of arousal is intimidating or offensive to the other dog, this can trigger defensive aggression from the recipient of her extreme emotions. Excitement reactivity is also a common behavior with dogs who have other impulse-control challenges. See “Dog Impulse-Control Training,” WDJ November 2021.

  • Defensive Reactivity. This is most often seen with dogs who have fear-related behaviors and often begins to present somewhere between the age of 6 months to a year.

Fearful puppies often just shut down when they feel threatened. As they begin to mature, they can become a little more confident about making a statement – on one occasion they growl when approached rather than just shutting down, and the person or other dog backs away. The dog realizes, “Hey, that worked—I’m going to do that again!” The behavior is reinforced by the removal of the aversive stimulus. Behaviors that are reinforced tend to increase, and the defensive-aggressive reactive behavior escalates.

Defensive reactivity in dogs may also be the result of a past association. A dog who was previously attacked by other dogs or badly treated by humans can also become defensive. As the defensive behavior increases and (in the dog’s mind) is effective in keeping the dog alive, the behavior may eventually morph into full-blown reactivity.

  • Offensive Reactivity. These dogs are not just putting on a show in order to make other dogs keep their distance; they really will attack other dogs.

This can be the most challenging of the various reactive behaviors and will likely require an extensive amount of behavior modification to change the dog’s strong, offensive emotional response. This dog may never be compatible with other dogs or completely trustworthy around her triggers, but with work may be able to be socially appropriate when properly managed.

How to Modify Your Dog’s Reactivity

As with all behavior challenges, the first important step is management. The better you are at managing your dog’s environment to prevent opportunities for her to practice the behavior, the more successful your modification program will be. You also have an obligation to prevent your dog from upsetting the world around her with her strong emotional responses. This might mean enrichment and exercise in your own yard rather than on-leash walks around the neighborhood that result in multiple reactive incidents every time – or scheduling your walks very early or late in the day when other people are less likely to be out with their dogs.

It also means keeping your radar on when you walk (not talking on your cell phone) so you can do avoidance moves like “Walk Away” the moment you see a potential trigger stimulus in the distance. See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” WDJ September 2018.

Other measures might include the Thunder Cap/Calming Cap (to reduce visual stimuli for your dog), making veterinary appointments for your dog at low activity times and/or asking your vet to let you wait in the car and come in a back entrance, and talking to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medications if appropriate (see “Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs,” February 2023).

For the actual modification of reactive behavior, you have choices. Counter conditioning and desensitization is usually my first choice. It is a relatively simple protocol that people are often (but not always!) able to implement without much guidance from a behavior professional.

With the stimulus at a below-threshold intensity (for reactivity this is usually the distance from the trigger where your dog notices but isn’t reacting), you feed your dog a high value treat (such as fresh bits of roasted chicken) every time she looks at the trigger, until her behavior indicates that she begins to think, “Chicken!” when she sees the stimulus, rather than “Bark and get excited!” We call this the “conditioned emotional response.” The stronger your dog’s emotional response to her triggers, the longer it is likely to take for her to get there. See “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization for Reducing Dog Reactivity,” on the WDJ website.

I have also had success modifying reactive behavior using the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) procedure. This is a more complex protocol that usually requires working closely with your favorite qualified force-free professional. In this procedure, the dog learns that calm behavior makes the unpleasant or uncomfortable stimuli go away; eventually the dog becomes calm and no longer feels the need to display reactive behavior. (“Reverse CAT” works the opposite way; the frustrated dog learns to stay calm in order to make good things come closer.) See “Modifying Aggressive Dog Behavior,” May 2008.

The above-described protocols can be very effective in modifying your dog’s reactive behavior, and a qualified force-free professional can offer you other options as well. See “Find the Best Trainer for You and Your Dog,” July 2023.

Don’t Punish

It is critical that you do not punish your dog for her reactive behavior. The stress you add by verbally or physically trying to “correct” your dog for her “bad” behavior will add tension to her already strong emotions. Remember that she is not choosing to be deliberately “bad” – she is overwhelmed by emotions that she cannot control. Even if you succeed in shutting down the reactive behavior in the moment, you are very likely to do more harm in the long run by adding to her emotional load. Recent studies confirm  that punishment and force-based methods can do significant damage to a dog’s quality of life. You don’t want to do that – you want to improve your dog’s quality of life!

Why Does My Puppy Have Diarrhea?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Puppies can experience stress, and this can lead to puppy diarrhea.
New puppy stress is real. Remember, the puppy has been taken from the only home he ever knew and away from his littermates. Loose stools and/or diarrhea can occur as a result. Credit: Danita Delimont | Getty Images

A puppy may have diarrhea for many reasons and usually is not reason to immediately overreact unless you’re seeing additional symptoms. Start with simple reasons for your new puppy’s diarrhea first:

  1. He has had major life changes. He is leaving the only home he has known, leaving his canine family, and moving to a new place with new people and maybe new animal friends. Diarrhea is a common stress reaction. Hold off on friends visiting your new puppy. Give him some time to settle in with quiet time and rest.
  2. Diet change. Most breeders send you home with a bag of the same food your pup has been eating. Stick with that food to start and go slow on treats (treat with the puppy’s kibble!). If you wish to change to a different food or diet plan, do it gradually.
  3. Parasites and illnesses. Anytime a dog has diarrhea, but especially with a puppy, parasites and illnesses need to be considered. Even if your breeder or rescue has dewormed him, take a fecal sample into your veterinarian. Better safe than sorry. Parasites like Giardia and coccidia can be missed with just one check or treatment.

When to Worry With Puppy Diarrhea

If the diarrhea is accompanied by vomiting, any blood in the stool, and signs of sickness such as a fever, lethargy, and not eating, your pup needs to be seen by your veterinarian. Puppies can dehydrate quickly, especially toy breed puppies who are susceptible to hypoglycemia – low blood sugar – as well.

If your puppy has diarrhea but is still playful and otherwise going gangbusters with some soft stool, you may be able to manage this at home with some care and careful observation:

  1. Keep him clean. The hardest problem with a playful, active pup with diarrhea is keeping him clean. Change bedding frequently and rinse off his rear and feet in the sink or the bathtub with warm water.
  2. Be sure he is hydrated. Make sure your pup is drinking. Dehydration is always a concern with a puppy with diarrhea. You can add a little electrolyte solution such as Pedialyte to his water, if needed.
  3. What to feed a puppy with diarrhea. Stick to bland food and skip the treats for now. A chicken and rice food or home-cooked plain (no seasonings) chicken breast and plain white rice are easy to digest. Canned mackerel is easy on the system. Add a small amount of plain canned pumpkin (not the pie version, which contains spices!) to help firm up stools. If stools don’t start to firm up in 24 to 36 hours, a veterinary visit is in order.

Digital Memories Can Hurt – But Time Heals

By
Nancy Kerns
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9
The more time that passes, the more likely you are to have pictures that feature several dogs who are no longer with you.

If you, like me, have posted photos of your dogs on social media for a long time, there’s every chance that you, like me, get regularly smacked in the face by a Facebook “memory” – a picture of your beloved heart dog who passed some time ago. And the longer you have been online, the more dogs you have loved and lost will appear there – sometimes in a group shot!

It’s bittersweet, isn’t it? When you unexpectedly see a photo of a small happy or funny moment that you may have forgotten about without the photo’s resurfacing, it’s just as likely to make you smile as bring tears to your eyes. Well, the smiles get more common the more time that goes by. When I see photos of Rupert, my sweet, sensitive Border Collie who died in late 2003 at the age of 14 years, I smile every time. But I’m still prone to getting weepy if I see a post about Otto, whom I lost last June.

I’m aware that we can delete these old posts so they never are presented to us again as a “Facebook memory” – and I have deleted a few. I still have the photos, and I can look them up in my filing cabinets and on my backup drives. But there are some memories that are too hard to revisit – at least when it happens without warning, or when I don’t have time for processing the feelings that arise when I see the serious, loving gaze of Otto as an old dog; he had such gravitas!

The older the photo, the more likely I can look at it without pain. The older Otto got, the more he acted like a grumpy uncle or behavior cop to my foster dogs and puppies. But when he was young, he used to play with them! It makes me happy to remember that.

It’s far easier to revisit the memories and photos of him as a young dog, still trying to figure out life with humans and new to his role as the leader to and guide for foster puppies and dogs. This makes perfect sense; those memories are farther away from the present and the more painful recent past. Is there a way to change the Facebook settings so they only show us memories that are more than, say, five years old?

Even if there isn’t a way to do that, and even if Facebook serves up are painful reminders of my loss from time to time, I’m glad to have this weird little digital time capsule of my life with my dogs, both the ones who have shared my life for years and years and the dozens of foster dogs who shared my home for just a few weeks or months. I never want to forget any of them.

My Dog Ate an Onion!

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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When your dog eats an onion it's natural to panic, but how much onion is toxic to dogs.
While fresh garden vegetables are as appealing to your dog as they are to you, be wary of onions, which are toxic to dogs. Credit: StephM2506 | Getty Images

Approximately 100 grams – about a half cup – of onion can be toxic to a 45-lb. dog. Onion powder is more concentrated, and therefore worse, but most dogs only get powder in small amounts in cooked foods.

A dog who ate an onion may vomit or have diarrhea, refuse to eat, and may have oral or gastric pain. You may notice difficulty breathing, lethargy, and/or feel a rapid heartbeat. Be aware, however: “Signs may not occur until several days after ingestion,” according to the American College of Apothecaries.

The toxic compound in onions is N-propyl disulphide. This substance destroys red blood cells and can lead to anemia. With anemia, your dog may become weak and lethargic. You might notice a rapid heartbeat if you feel your dog’s chest or see that his gums are pale.

What to Do If Your Dog Eats an Onion

If you realize your dog ate an onion, try to make him vomit. A tiny piece of onion won’t be a big problem in most dogs, except small dogs, but any large chunks or whole onions can cause toxicity. Contact your veterinarian immediately, even if you made your dog vomit.

The vet will induce vomiting and give activated charcoal to try and bind the toxic compound. In severe cases, your dog may need a transfusion. Blood samples will be drawn to check for anemia and Heinz bodies (damaged red blood cell proteins). Your dog may need recheck blood samples to ensure he is recovering from the onion ingestion.

Many onion exposures are small but if repeated could cause symptoms just like one big exposure. If you are feeding baby food to a tiny puppy or to tempt a finicky or sick dog, always check the ingredients. Many of these products include onion powder. If you cook a soup using onions, onion powder, or garlic in any form, do not share any with your dog.

Why Your Dog Keeps Eating Onions

Unfortunately, a whole onion may look like a toy or a ball to a dog, and they may chew on one while basically playing with it. Do not allow your dog to ingest or play with any allium vegetables, including onions, leeks, shallots, chives, or garlic. This includes the vegetables and powders. Ornamental chives also contain the toxic compound, so fence off areas in your garden with potentially dangerous flowers as well as any toxic vegetables. Many foods are toxic to dogs, and it’s wise to familiarize with them.

Dogs can eat many vegetables, including carrots – baby carrots are a little-dog favorite – and green beans (many dogs like them frozen!). Vegetables are a great healthy treat for dogs.

Babesiosis in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Walks in the wilderness are fun for both you and your dog, but can open them up to tickborne infections like babesiosis.
Ticks can’t jump. Instead, they hang out at the ends of grass waiting to latch onto an unsuspecting host, like a dog, spreading diseases like babesiosis. Credit: Faba Photography | Getty Images

Babesiosis is a tickborne disease that can affect dogs. Although the disease is seen worldwide, including in the United States, much of the what we know about babesiosis is from Europe.

Babesiosis is primarily transmitted through a tick bite but can infect puppies in utero and be spread by dog bites through saliva. The tiny parasite that causes babesiosis attacks and destroys red blood cell, causing anemia. While most dogs develop a slowly progressing illness with minimal symptoms, some dogs show an acute, aggressive illness.

An important consideration with babesiosis is that infected dogs never totally rid themselves of this infection, even with treatment. An infected dog is considered a lifetime carrier, with illness possible under stressful conditions. The dog may also serve as a potential source of infection for other dogs. Dogs used for blood transfusion donations should be screened for babesiosis. The same is true for any dog adopted out of a dog-fighting scenario.

Symptoms of Babesiosis

Symptoms of babesiosis include hematuria, which is blood in the urine; dark urine; pale membranes from the anemia; and weakness, swollen lymph nodes, and an enlarged and fragile spleen. Many dogs have a fever and are lethargic.

Many severely compromised dogs have immune disorders or have had their spleens removed.

Diagnosis of Babesiosis in Dogs

Diagnosis is done by identification of the parasites on blood smears or via PCR laboratory testing.

Treatment of Babesiosis in Dogs

Imidocarb, azithromycin and atovaquone, and clindamycin are all potential medications for treatment. Very anemic dogs may need transfusions and are acutely ill.

Avoiding Babesiosis

As with so many tickborne diseases, avoiding this disease starts with tick control. With so many options, from orals medications and topicals for the skin to collars, you should be able to find the right one for your dog.

Management such as making your yard and outdoor areas unattractive to ticks also helps. Repellent sprays can help to keep ticks off your dog. Be sure you know what a tick looks like and how to remove it and do daily checks, such as wiping your dog over with a lint roller after a hike in fields or woods to pick up ticks before they attach.

A vaccine in Europe only seems to work on certain species. No vaccine is available in North America as of this writing.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Dogs can eat oatmeal provided it's cooked and made without additional ingredients.
You can let your dog have share some oatmeal, but be sure it’s made from plain oats and water without things like raisins or artificial sweeteners. Credit: Aleksandar Nakic | Getty Images

Your dog can safely eat most forms of oatmeal, but avoid those packets of flavored oatmeal, as they may contain other ingredients that are harmful to your dog, including the deadly sweetener xylitol. Stick with plain oats.

You have likely seen dog foods and treats that include oatmeal as an ingredient. That’s because it is nutritious. Beneficial nutrients in oatmeal for dogs include:

  • Fiber
  • Vitamin B
  • Omega-6 fatty acids
  • Magnesium
  • Zinc
  • Antioxidants

These qualities can help to support heart and gastro-intestinal tract health for your dog. Oatmeal also can help promote healthy weight and stable blood glucose levels. Oatmeal is good for dogs with diarrhea or loose stools because it’s high in fiber.

How to Feed Oatmeal to Dogs

When cooking oatmeal for your dog, use water instead of milk. Most dogs are lactose intolerant, so water is the better choice. Follow the instructions for the plain oats of your choice. You can even use overnight oats that soak overnight.

As with any new food, introduce oatmeal gradually so that your dog doesn’t get an upset stomach. Start with about a spoonful of cooked oatmeal at a time. You can work up to about 6 ounces of oatmeal a day per 25 pounds of the dog’s bodyweight.

If you plan to home-cook your dog’s meals rather than just feeding oatmeal as a supplemental snack, consult with a veterinary nutritionist or use BalanceIt.com to formulate a complete and balanced diet. This will ensure that your dog gets all the nutrients that she needs to be happy and healthy long term.

And don’t forget to let the oatmeal cool before you serve it to your dog!

Oatmeal in Dog Food

Oatmeal is sometimes used in commercial dog foods as an alternate carbohydrate source instead of wheat, rice, or corn. Provided that the dog food packaging has an AAFCO statement declaring that it is formulated to meet nutritional standards for your dog’s life stage, you are all set to feed it to your dog as-is.

Oatmeal is also used in many treats that your dog may enjoy.

Can Dogs Eat Uncooked Oatmeal?

Dogs should not eat uncooked “raw” oatmeal. The cooking process makes it easier for dogs to digest. Eating dry uncooked oatmeal in large quantities may cause your dog to bloat, which is a medical emergency.

Can Dogs Eat Oatmeal Cookies?

Dogs can eat oatmeal cookies once in a great while depending on what else is in them. Remember that raisins and chocolate chips are both toxic to dogs, which rules out many oatmeal cookies. The high sugar content of many cookies is not ideal for our canine companions, however.

Unless you are certain all the ingredients in an oatmeal cookie are safe for dogs, keep that treat for yourself.

5 Reasons to Microchip Your Dog

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Microchipping a dog offers many advantages for locating the dog, and tracking health records.
Universal dog microchip scanners can be used to identify any dog with a microchip and get that dog back to the owner. Credit: Ali Cobanoglu | Getty Images

YES, microchipping your dog is 100% worth it! This quick, easy, inexpensive process gives your dog permanent identification that will stay with her for life no matter where she goes. If she ever gets lost, that microchip will be the best bet you have of being reunited.

Five reasons to microchip your dog are:

  1. Collars and tags can fall off, but microchips are forever.
  2. Once your dog’s microchip is registered with your contact information, it will stay in the database forever.
  3. You can quickly and easily update your contact information online.
  4. Almost all shelters, vet clinics, and animal control officers have universal scanners to check a lost dog for a microchip.
  5. Microchips are safe, easy to implant, and inexpensive.

A microchip is permanent identification that shows the dog is linked to you. Each chip has a unique number. Most chip numbers also indicate the company that made the chip.

Once a microchip has been implanted under your dog’s skin (usually behind the shoulder blades), the chip needs to be registered with the manufacturer. In other words, if your dog’s microchip was purchased from HomeAgain, you will register through HomeAgain, if the chip was made by PetLink you will register with PetLink, and so on.

How Much to Microchip a Dog?

The cost of a microchip for a dog is generally $30 to $60, but that will vary depending on where you live and the brand of microchip used. The cost includes the microchip itself, implantation of the chip under your dog’s skin, and registration.

You do not have to purchase an annual subscription from the manufacturer for your dog’s and your information to remain in their database. These basic features are forever. The annual subscriptions provide additional features that vary from brand to brand, so read the details to see if you are interested.

When to Microchip Your Dog

The microchip can be implanted once your dog is 6 weeks old. It can be done during a routine vaccine appointment, or while your dog is under anesthesia for a spay or neuter surgery or a dental cleaning.

Microchip Registration Is Critical

Registering the microchip is what links the unique code in your dog’s microchip with your name and contact information. Most chips can be registered online, and you can choose to add multiple family members or co-owners as desired. Your veterinary clinic staff may register the microchip for you at the time of implantation, so be sure to ask how to access the account so you can keep your contact info up to date.

If your dog gets lost, most veterinarians, animal control officers, and shelters now have universal scanners to scan for a microchip. This means that one scanner can read microchips made by many manufacturers. When the person who scanned your dog has the microchip number, they can look it up online to then contact the company and get your contact information. In a matter of minutes, they can call you to let you know your dog is safe and sound. A study by Linda Lord, published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Association, showed that the biggest reason microchipped pets were not returned to their owners was failure of the owners to update the information in the microchip database.

Why Your Dog is Licking Their Back Near the Tail

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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If your dog keeps licking back near tail he could be suffering from discomfort due to allergies, or another issue.
A dog who is constantly licking the base of his tail is reacting to discomfort. Credit: Maryna Terletska | Getty Images

A dog who spends a lot of time licking near the base of his tail is often suffering from anal gland issues, allergies, or both. Allergies, especially a food allergy, can cause inflammation of the anal glands, which is irritating to the dog.

Other potential causes of a dog licking the base of the tail include fleas in the area, hot spots, perianal fistulas, and perianal tumors. If your dog is licking back there a lot, take a good look at the general area yourself.

The dog’s licking implies something is uncomfortable. The sooner you get a veterinary diagnosis and appropriate treatment the sooner your best friend and companion is feeling better and can get back to living his best life.

Anal Gland Inflammation

The anal glands are two natural scent glands that sit at approximately 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock, if the anus was a clock face. Each time the dog has a bowel movement, a little of the anal gland secretions are squeezed out, keeping the glands from uncomfortably overfilling. Some dogs, depending on how the gland and its opening are anatomically situated, are unable to achieve this natural anal gland expression.

These dogs will either scoot on their behinds or lick obsessively at the area to try and relieve the uncomfortable pressure. For these dogs, routine manual anal gland expression is usually recommended to keep them comfortable. In addition to overfilling, anal glands can become inflamed, impacted, or infected.

For these dogs, working with your veterinarian is critical to getting the problem diagnosed and controlled. Additionally, your dog may need to have his inflamed anal glands flushed and an anti-inflammatory ointment infused into the gland. Impacted anal glands require manual expression by your veterinarian. Infected anal glands are usually treated with a flush, oral antibiotics, oral anti-inflammatory medications, and warm water soaks or sitz baths to encourage draining.

Allergies and Inflammation

Dogs with allergies lick and scratch a lot, sometimes all over, sometimes only in certain areas, such as around the base of the tail. If your dog is licking or chewing a lot back near the tail, the first thing to do is check for fleas, and if he is not on an effective flea control product, get him on one. Itching, licking, and chewing in the rump area, where the tail is, is frequently due to flea allergy dermatitis (FAD).

Licking under the base of tail and around the sides is often associated with food allergy. Your veterinarian will likely recommend a special diet trial to see if the urge to lick goes away while on a hypoallergenic food. If it does, keeping your dog on that food should resolve the licking.

How to Keep a Dog from Jumping the Fence

By
Kate O'Connor
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1
Some dogs view fences as a challenge not a limitation making it hard to keep them from jumping the fence.
It can be difficult to keep a dog from jumping the fence, especially if they are athletic and confident. Credit: fotorince | Getty Images

A fenced yard can be great when you have a dog. It gives them a safe place to play, relieve themselves, and enjoy being outside as well as providing a reasonably controlled environment for training, exercise, and enrichment activities. However, that safety can disappear quickly if your dog finds a way to get out of the yard.

It’s safe to assume that if a dog can get over, under, or through a barrier, she will. This raises the question of how to keep a dog in the yard once she figures out how to beat the fence. To be honest, the only reliable way to keep a dog from jumping the fence is to build a better fence. Training your dog to respect boundaries can help, but there is no way to guarantee that training will hold if something frightening or exciting happens while you are not there to reinforce the behavior you expect.

Why Dogs Escape

Identifying the cause of the problem won’t change how to keep a dog in the yard; to reiterate, if a dog is capable of getting out, always assume the time will come when she will. However, having an idea of what motivates your dog might offer some insight into how to improve her life overall. While the human/canine communication barrier prevents us from knowing exactly why a specific dog might decide to leave when an opportunity presents itself, we can make some educated guesses:

  • Boredom: A dog who is not getting enough stimulation may feel the need to go look for something better to do than hanging around in the same old space doing the same old things.
  • Loneliness: While some dogs are fine by themselves, others don’t like to be alone for long periods of time. If company can be found outside the yard, then over the fence they will go if they can manage it.
  • Separation anxiety: A dog experiencing separation anxiety may attempt to get back to where she feels safe – namely, with her humans. If this seems like it might be why your dog is trying to escape, it’s time to stop putting her out in the yard alone and first work on resolving her anxiety. Anxiety and fear can drive a dog to extreme measures such as flinging herself at the fence, biting or tearing at barriers, or forcing her way through too-small gaps.
  • Fear: Similarly, if something in the yard scares a dog to the point where she feels the need to escape, she will be very motivated to find a way out, fence or no fence.
  • External stimulation: There are a plethora of things that can trigger a dog’s desire to approach something they can’t reach because of the fence. Whether it’s chasing squirrels or wanting to get to another dog or human, seeing something on the other side can create a need to get out.
  • Fun: Sometimes the grass just looks greener on the other side. Exploring can be reason enough to go wandering even if there is plenty of fun stuff to do at home.

Good Fencing for Dogs

While no barrier is perfect, a good fence will go a long way toward keeping your dog in and other animals and humans out. Things to consider when assessing fencing for dogs include:

  • Your dog: Step one is to observe your dog, keeping in mind any traits or behaviors that might play a role in how she interacts with a fence. For example, an energetic, athletic dog may need a taller, stronger fence than one who just wants to laze around in the sun when outside. That goes double for a dog who has shown signs of wanting to jump or climb. On the other end of the fence, a small dog or a dog who wants to dig may need something that sits flush with or below ground level. Keep in mind that a puppy or a dog who is new to the household may become more willing to test the fence as she gains confidence.
  • Fence height: While 6 feet is generally considered a safe bet for most dogs, there is no fool-proof guide to guessing the right fence height. Typically, taller dogs call for taller fences, but there are plenty of small dogs that can get some serious airtime and they have less mass to weigh them down when climbing. It’s worth noting that the current record holder for “highest jump by a dog” logged a leap of 75.5 inches (6.3 feet). The record was set for a clean jump; if a dog can get a paw on something to give them a lift, or jump high enough to get paws over a support and climb the rest of the way, even a 6-foot fence might not be enough if you’ve got a real athlete on your hands.
  • Fence add-ons: For a determined climber or digger (see the sidebar below), there are some options to help keep them from getting out. An inward slanting panel at the top of a fence can make it harder to climb over while a concrete strip or L-shaped footer buried underground can serve to keep a digger contained.
  • Gaps and spacing: Pay attention to any gaps in the fencing, particularly at corners, gates, and where the fence meets the ground. Also note how closely spaced the fencing material is. A good rule of thumb is that if the dog can get her head through, the rest of her could follow.
  • Material: Discussing the pros and cons of fencing materials could be an article unto itself. In short, the best option depends a lot on the dog, location, and available budget. Of the more commonly used materials, chain link and other metal mesh fences are durable, low-maintenance, and often more budget friendly. However, they are climbable, flexible, and often have gaps at gates or corners. Wooden panel fencing provides more privacy and less external stimulation, but tends to require more maintenance, especially in harsher climates. It can also be chewable and provide purchase for determined climbers. Vinyl panel fencing is lower maintenance and longer-lasting than wood while offering many of the same benefits. It is also slippery enough to make climbing difficult, but can be more expensive and harder to repair if damaged. Brick or stone walls are great for containing dogs but can get very pricey, especially if they need to be taller than a few feet.

Extending Existing Fencing

When it comes to extending a fence your dog has already (or nearly) escaped, half measures generally won’t cut it. For example, if you were to add only a foot to a fence your dog has jumped or climbed over before, you may end up encouraging her to just try harder next time. The same goes for diggers; a footer that goes a short way past the depth your dog dug to previously might actually teach her to dig deeper. Also, filling in or reinforcing only the spot your dog dug out of may push her to try other spots along the fence instead. To be effective, fence extensions need to be significant to stand a chance.

Two Types of Canine Escape Artists

There are two individuals in my dog history – both beloved residents of the family kennel – that came immediately to mind when I started writing this article. The first, Lupe, was a joyful and relentless digger. She tunneled everywhere – in between runs in the kennel (which then had packed pea-gravel footing), under fences separating the dog yards, and out under the main dog paddock fence. She was also a big fan of bringing friends. If she was in the yard with a buddy, she’d urge them through the hole. If she was solo, she’d dig into another run or yard before heading out to explore the neighborhood. We were very, very lucky that nobody got hurt or lost before we figured out that she could and would go through pretty much anything even remotely diggable the moment her humans turned their backs.

Lupe has the honor of being the impetus for one of the kennel’s most expensive fencing renovations to date. In order to make a safe place for her (and her daughter, who picked up her mother’s hobby), we ended up renting a backhoe and digging a trench around the perimeter of every fence on the property meant to contain a dog. From there, we installed L-shaped panels that extended two feet below ground and one foot in. Lupe spent six months spot testing the new fence before deciding her digging efforts were better spent on gopher holes.

The second, Blue, was a climber. In his case, we didn’t figure that out for a while. He came to us as a rescue with a plethora of tick-borne illnesses. Recovery was slow but when his energy finally started to come back, he began climbing the fences, which were mostly chain link or wire mesh over wood. In his case, the climbing seemed to be motivated by separation anxiety. Especially in the early days, when he was still learning that we were his and he was ours, he really struggled with not having a human in sight and would do what he felt he needed to do to fix that – including scaling 6-foot chain link.

Trust-building and training helped him to feel more comfortable and eventually he was able to happily spend time in the yard, but he was always a climber. We ended up adding a chain link roof to one of the outdoor dog runs so he would have a safe place to hang out and get some fresh air without us being right there with him.

The Dangers of Tie-outs and Invisible Fences

It may be tempting to look for other ways to restrain your dog outside if existing fencing isn’t doing the trick, especially since a new, dog-safe fence can be a major expense. Unfortunately, there aren’t many good options available.

While it was once a commonly used approach, leaving a dog outside on a line or chain puts her at significant risk of injury. First, it’s too easy for a dog to get tangled in the line, even if there aren’t any obvious objects to get stuck on. If the line gets wrapped around a leg, or worse, around the dog’s neck, it can cause sprains, broken bones, or strangulation. There is also the risk of neck and back injuries if the dog were to get jerked to a sudden stop by outrunning the length of line or chain.

Electronic “invisible” fences, which usually work by supplying a shock, vibration, or sound via a special collar when the dog goes past the set boundary, aren’t a good way to go either. Even if you pick a “pain free” option that cues the dog with sound or vibration and provide training based on positive associations, it comes back to the question of “Will it hold when something scary or thrilling happens?” Let’s say a loose dog comes running through the barrier (which he can’t see or feel) and starts a fight with your dog. In the fear and confusion, how likely is it that your dog will remember her training and prioritize staying within the boundary over her own life?

What to Do if You Don’t Have a Dog-Proof Fence

Whether it’s the expense, the circumstances (such as rental property rules), or if you’ve just found yourself sharing your life with an incredible dog who can get through anything not designed to hold a grizzly bear, building a better fence isn’t always possible. It’s worth remembering that a fenced yard is not a requirement for giving your dog a good life. As long as you are able to provide her with appropriate exercise and enrichment through walks, training, and other activities, she doesn’t need to be loose in a yard to be happy and healthy.

Are Dogs Ticklish?

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Some dogs are ticklish, and some of these enjoy being tickled.
Many dogs are ticklish on their bellies and under their front legs. Credit: Photos by R A Kearton | Getty Images

There is little question about whether humans experience tickling sensations, but are dogs ticklish as well? The short answer is yes. Light touches and scratches on sensitive spots can yield very similar reactions in dogs and humans such as squirming, twitching, and playful vocalizations.

Alongside the anecdotal evidence, researchers at the University of California noted in a study that knismesis, defined as a light tickling or itching sensation, “appears to be widespread across many mammals” including dogs. Although the topic of canine ticklishness has only been sparsely researched, it is generally acknowledged that dogs as a species do experience ticklishness.

Where are Dogs Ticklish?

When it comes to if or where a specific individual is ticklish, results will vary. Some dogs will wiggle and grin at the mere suggestion of being scratched on the right spot while others just don’t seem to experience the sensation. Some are only ticklish as young puppies, but others remain ticklish throughout their lives. For dogs that are ticklish, common spots include:

  • Sides
  • Belly
  • Chest
  • Ears
  • Base of the tail
  • Paws

To Tickle or Not to Tickle

For humans, tickling is usually a sign of closeness – just think of how odd and uncomfortable it would be if a perfect stranger walked up to you and tried to tickle you. The same holds true for dogs. Most dogs are much more likely to enjoy being tickled by a known and trusted human rather than a stranger.

Also like humans, enjoyment of tickling sensations differs between dogs. Some love it. Others loathe it. For those that like it, tickling can be a fun part of playtime.

If you don’t yet know your dog’s preferences, go slowly to avoid creating an unpleasant experience. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you when you touch potentially sensitive spots. If he moves away from the sensation, tenses up, or exhibits stress behaviors such as yawning or lip-licking, it’s time to find another game. On the other hand, if he wiggles around on his back with his feet in the air and his tongue lolling out when you tickle his belly, it’s a good sign he’s having fun too.

Another thing to watch out for is that tickling can be fun at first but become overwhelming if it goes on too long. Take breaks to assess how your dog is feeling and stop before the sensation becomes too much to be enjoyable. Be sure to respect your dog’s boundaries if he moves away or begins showing signs of being uncomfortable.

Gear and Ticklishness

Every once in a while, there is a piece of gear – such as a harness, collar, backpack, or jacket – that just hits a dog’s ticklish spots wrong. Even if the dog typically enjoys being tickled during playtime, dealing with the sensation while on a walk or trying to rest could become annoying or uncomfortable. Some signs that a piece of equipment might be tickling or hurting a dog include:

  • Skin shivering
  • Biting at gear
  • Walking stiffly or refusing to walk
  • Scratching excessively

If your dog is demonstrating any of these behaviors, the first step is to make sure his gear is properly adjusted and fits him well. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, it’s time to find something that doesn’t hit ticklish spots.

Overall, tickling can either be a fun part of bonding and playtime or something that creates a barrier between you and your dog. It’s up to you to ensure everyone is having a good time.

Can Dogs Eat Rice?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dogs can eat rice and its a staple bland food to feed a dog with an upset dog.
Rice is a great bland food for dogs, but some dogs won’t eat it without something added to it, like chicken. Credit: hxyume | Getty Images

The long and the short of it is – yes, dogs can eat rice.

Cooked white rice is traditionally fed to dogs with an upset gastrointestinal (GI) tract because rice is bland and therefore easy on the GI tract. However, some dogs won’t eat it without some cooked plain chicken breast or boiled hamburger added to it.

Cooked without spices or salt, white rice is easy to digest and a good source of nutrition as it contains calcium and vitamins. It is gluten-free for dogs who are sensitive to wheat. Rice also adds fiber, making it an excellent choice for a dog recovering from pancreatitis.

Can Dogs Eat Brown Rice?

Dogs can eat cooked brown rice. Brown rice has more vitamins than white rice, but it can be harder to digest so it is not as easy on an upset stomach.

Brown rice has a lower glycemic index than white rice, making it a better for diabetic dogs as it won’t influence blood glucose as much. Jasmine rice is also fine for dogs.

What You Should Know About Dogs and Rice

Rice needs to be cooked plain without adding spices or salt. While your dog might be attracted to fried rice, it is not healthy for him. If your dog turns his nose up at plain rice, try adding some low salt bouillon to the cooking water.

You should only use a combo of rice and boiled chicken or hamburger short term for gastrointestinal upsets as it is not a balanced diet.

All types of rice are considered “high carb,” so should not be overfed as it could cause weight gain in dogs. The carbohydrates also can contribute to blood glucose spikes, which can be dangerous for diabetic dogs.

Many dog foods include rice as part of their balanced formulas. It is a good grain substitute for dogs with gluten problems, such as Irish Setters with their gluten enteropathy. Some dogs don’t handle rice well. Plain mashed potato – emphasis on “plain” – can work for those dogs who need a bland diet.

Aggression at Dog Parks

By
Nancy Kerns
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3
A prominent display of dog park rules.
Some parks try to impose common-sense rules to help people keep their dogs safe. Photo by Petra Richli, Getty Images

We’ve all got stories about terrible things that we’ve seen or heard about that happened at a dog park: Dogs who fought, dogs who got killed, dogs who bit people. Nevertheless, I think we all could acknowledge that in a perfect world, large and safely fenced parks where dogs can run off-leash are a valuable asset to many dogs; the ability to run outdoors improves their physical and mental health. And some of the dogs and some of the people like to socialize there. The problem is, how to keep anyone from hurting each other!

In some cities or towns, people try to regulate or legislate rules or guidelines to try to reduce the occurrence of tragedies. “No aggressive dogs,” the signs might broadly state (though there are plenty of people who can’t identify any but the most violent acts of canine aggression).

In contrast, other parks take a micromanaging approach, forbidding people from bringing food, toys, or children into the park, banning intact dogs and puppies under a certain age, and providing spaces for smaller and larger dogs and strictly enforcing this separation. If observed, all of these rules will help prevent certain acts of aggression between dogs – but any time a mixed population of dogs and their humans gather off-leash, there is a chance that disagreements will happen, no matter how diligently all the rules are followed.

I would argue that there are just as many potentially aggressive humans at these parks as there are dogs who exhibit aggressive behavior, so I was amused to see a sign in one dog park recently that confirmed my bias and gave attendees a way to bring in a higher authority to handle aggression-related disputes:

 

It’s probably not funny. I recently read about a dog-park tragedy where a Shi-Tzu’s owner shot and killed another person’s Rottweiler after the large dog grabbed and was shaking the small dog. It’s only natural to try to place blame with one party or the other. It sounded like the off-leash Shi-Tzu ran up to the leashed Rottweiler barking; did the small dog initiate the aggression? Was the Rottweiler dog-aggressive; is that why the owner had the dog (and another Rottweiler) on leash in an off-leash park? Perhaps none of those dogs should have been a dog park, and certainly not in the same area; it’s safest when small and large dogs have separate areas to play in. But I have experienced a situation where a 25-pound dog caused injuries that killed a 12-pound dog, so a separate small-dog area is not the only answer.

If I still lived in an urban area where there are few places to let my dogs run, and I had young adult dogs who would benefit from more exercise than I could provide on leash, I would likely still make an occasional visit to a dog park. But I’d never take a puppy or insecure adolescent to a dog park. I’d take a friendly, adult dog only during hours when a park was very lightly populated – and I’d always observe the dogs (and humans!) who were present in the park before I entered. I’d want to see playful dogs who seemed to be attentive to their attentive owners; I won’t go into a park if all I see are folks who are drinking coffee and looking at their phones, or gabbing with other owners and not watching their dogs. And I wouldn’t even turn off the car if I see any aroused-appearing dogs cruising around looking for other dogs to run toward and bully, or mobbing every new dog who walks into the park. Unfortunately, all of those disqualifiers are all-too-common at most dog parks.

(If you’re still inclined to visit dog parks with your dog, read Pat Miller’s 2017 piece about how to evaluate a dog park for a safer visit.)

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Nancy Kerns 4
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
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