Home Blog Page 19

Anise for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
-
3
Anise for dogs is a tempting scent with a similar effect as catnip for cats.
Anise is often used for nosework and scent games for dogs but it also offers a number of health benefits. Credit: Heather Paul | Getty Images

Anise, which has a licorice-like taste and fragrance, is not toxic to dogs and is generally considered safe in small quantities. It is often used in nosework training and offers other canine benefits including:

  • Improved digestion
  • Reduced gas and bloating
  • Freshened breath
  • Stress reduction
  • Increased training interest and focus

Anise vs. Star Anise for Dogs

Anise (Pimpinella anisum) is a flowering annual plant of the parsley family. It is native to Egypt and the Mediterranean but is now grown around the world. Anise is known for its seeds, which flavor sweet and savory dishes and can help alleviate symptoms of indigestion and respiratory illnesses. Anise essential oil flavors spirits like ouzo and arak.

Anise and star anise are two different plants. Anise is the safer of the two for dogs.
Although the names and scents are similar, anise (the small seeds pictured in the front) and star anise (the star-shaped plant in the back) are unrelated. Anise is considered the safer of the two to give to dogs. Credit: bdspn | Getty Images

Native to southwest China, star anise (Illicium verum) is a popular spice with a scent similar to anise. However, the plants are unrelated. Star anise seeds, named for their unique star-shaped appearance, have a sweet licorice-like flavor that is more pungent than that of anise seeds.

Star anise is controversial because in large amounts or in concentrated forms (such as distilled essential oils), it can trigger seizures in dogs. While star anise can be used safely in small quantities, anise seeds from Pimpinella anisum are considered the safer choice for dogs.

Are Anise Seeds Safe for All Dogs?

Although most dogs tolerate and benefit from anise seeds, they are not recommended for pregnant dogs because anise can stimulate the uterus. Some veterinarians warn against feeding anise to puppies until they are at least 6 months old because their digestive tracts are still developing. Large quantities of anise seed are not recommended for any dog because large doses depress the nervous system.

When feeding crushed or powdered anise seeds, watch for signs of discomfort, including excessive scratching, loose stools, diarrhea, or vomiting. Such allergic reactions are rare as anise seed is generally safe for dogs, but if any of them occur, discontinue use.

Anise essential oil is not recommended for topical use or as a food additive for dogs. Save the essential oil for nosework training or similar activities.

Using Anise Essential Oil in Nosework

Anise seed essential oil is used in nosework training as a target scent along with other distinctive essential oils such as birch, clove, and cypress. Dogs quickly recognize anise, which enhances their ability to detect and locate items treated with it. Anise naturally excites and interests dogs, which is why it’s popularly known as “dognip” and why exposure to its fragrance makes scent articles all the more rewarding.

Even if your pup is not studying nosework, he can enjoy searching for and finding any toy, towel, or other object that has been scented with a drop of anise essential oil. Recommended sources include Amrita Aromatherapy, Aura Cacia, and Mountain Rose Herbs.

Adding Anise Tincture to Your Dog’s Food

Tinctures are concentrated extracts containing alcohol or glycerin, and although comparisons vary according to manufacturing methods and the quality of ingredients, 1/4 teaspoon of tincture is usually considered equivalent to 1 teaspoon of crushed or ground seeds, and 3/4 teaspoon of tincture is equivalent to about 1 tablespoon of crushed or ground seeds.

Tinctures can be added to your dog’s food, and most dogs enjoy the taste. Recommended anise seed tinctures are available from Herb Pharm, Herbal Terra, and other manufacturers. It typically comes in glass bottles containing eyedropper dispensers.

To determine a daily dose, start with 1 drop of tincture per 2 pounds of your dog’s weight. This would be 10 drops for a 20-pound dog (0.5 ml or about 1/8 teaspoon), 25 drops for a 50-lb dog (1.25 ml or about 1/4 teaspoon), or 50 drops for a 75-lb dog (2.5 ml or about 1/2 teaspoon).

Adding Anise Seeds to Your Dog’s Food

The benefits of adding anise seeds to your dog’s food can include improved digestion, better breathing, and increased relaxation because anise is a mild sedative. Although its use as a respiratory aid is less associated with canine than human health, some dog owners consider anise to be helpful for reducing coughs.

For best results, purchase anise seeds from Frontier Co-op, Starwest Botanicals, Gneiss Spice, or other organic suppliers. Crush or grind them with a mortar and pestle, coffee grinder, food processor, or blender. Store the crushed or powdered seeds in your refrigerator to maintain freshness.

Add small amounts to food and observe your dog’s response. If all goes well and your dog enjoys the taste, increase amounts gradually. Give up to 1/2 teaspoon crushed or powdered anise per day to small dogs (weighing less than 15 pounds); 3/4 teaspoon daily to medium dogs (15-35 pounds); 1-1/2 teaspoons daily to large dogs (35-70 pounds); and 2 teaspoons daily to dogs weighing more than 70 pounds. Divide doses in half if you feed twice a day.

Anise-flavored Dog Treats

Anise seeds flavor all types of foods, including baked goods like biscotti. Bone Bons makes Carrot Anise Biscotti Dog Biscuits so your dog can enjoy that fragrant, crunchy experience, too.

To make your own anise-flavored dog treats (see some sample recipes below), gather the ingredients and equipment, preheat your oven, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. If using peanut butter or nut butter, look for brands that contain only one main ingredient (peanuts or nuts) and avoid brands containing sugar, xylitol, hydrogenated oils, or other additives.

Combine ingredients one at a time, mixing them with a stand mixer, food processor, or by hand.

After baking, leave treats at room temperature for a day or two, which helps harden biscuits, making them sturdier and crunchier. Depending on ingredients, home-prepared dog biscuits may last for several days to a week or more at room temperature or longer in the refrigerator. For long-term storage, freeze in air-tight containers.

Meaty Anise Dog Biscuits

3-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (wheat, gluten-free, almond, or other)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 cup butter or coconut oil

1/2 cup finely chopped cooked bacon, fish, meat, or chicken

1/2 cup milk or coconut milk

2 tablespoons ground anise seed

Combine ingredients and mix well to create a soft dough. If you have a cookie press, experiment with different shapes and press cookies onto a parchment-covered cookie sheet. If you don’t have a cookie press, create balls and press them with the tines of a fork. Bake at 275°F (135°C) for 30 to 40 minutes or until light brown.

Pumpkin, Carrot, Coconut Anise Dog Biscuits

1-3/4 cup all-purpose flour (wheat, gluten-free, almond, or other)

1/2 cup canned pumpkin puree

2 tablespoons unsweetened peanut or nut butter

2 eggs

1 cup grated carrots

1 cup shredded dried unsweetened coconut

1 tablespoon ground anise seed

Combine ingredients, use a rolling pin to roll the dough 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick, and shape with cookie cutters. Bake at 350°F (177°C) for 30 to 35 minutes or until light brown.

Oatmeal Anise Dog Treats

3 cups rolled oats

1/2 cup unsweetened peanut or nut butter

1/2 cup applesauce, mashed banana, or pumpkin puree

1-1/2 tablespoons ground anise seed

Process the oats in a food processor or blender to create a coarse flour. Add the nut butter, fruit puree, and anise, blending well. Roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thick and cut with a cookie cutter or knife to desired shapes. Bake at 300°F (149°C) on a middle oven rack for 25 to 30 minutes until crisp.

Why Do Dogs Hide Under Beds?

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
-
1
A shaggy gray dog sleeping, but not hiding, under the bed.
Far from hiding, Dante regularly enjoys taking naps under the bed. Credit: Kim Campbell Thornton

If you’ve ever wondered “Why does my dog hide under the bed?” or “Why does my dog sleep under the bed?” there are a lot of potential reasons. They include a desire for security, a search for a cool spot, or a bid for attention.

For Dante, the area under the bed is a quiet place where he takes a nap. Jitter was afraid of fireworks and hid under the bed when she heard them. Momo goes under the bed because she knows it’s a surefire way to get attention from her owner. Star runs under the bed with contraband paper that she wants to tear up.

Why Do Dogs Sleep Under Beds?

For lots of dogs, under the bed is just a quiet, cozy place to nap or stay cool in summer’s heat. Heather Houlahan, who has a small farm in Pennsylvania, says she could tell what season it was by the location of her German Shepherd, Lilly:

  • Winter—on the bed
  • Spring/Fall—on the rug
  • Summer—under the bed, seeking coolness, possibly stuck

“Lilly used to slide under there and find herself in difficulties because a 75-pound dog cannot actually fit.”

Will a Dog Hide Under the Bed for Privacy?

Zippy, a Miniature Pinscher mix, was five months old when her family had to bug out from the Palisades fire in Los Angeles on January 7. She wasn’t fully housetrained, and stability went out the window as her people moved from hotels to rental houses until they could get settled again. Along the way, Zippy apparently decided that under the bed was an ideal place to poop.

“She likes her privacy, and she was tiny enough to stand up under the bed in one of our longer temporary lodgings,” says owner Susanne Howarth.

Howarth speculates that Zippy might have had trouble figuring out how to indicate that she wanted to go out. That particular rental was on the second floor with no immediate outdoor access and no nearby grass when she did get outside. That can be confusing for a puppy.

Will a Dog Hide Under the Bed Out of Fear?

For some dogs, slithering beneath the bed is a response to fear. Things that might scare dogs into hiding under the bed include:

  • Storms
  • Fireworks
  • Large trucks
  • Electronic beeping sounds
  • The sound of the doorbell

“You could name a thousand things,” says veterinary behaviorist Lisa Radosta, DVM, DACVB. “They might have been rescued from a hoarding situation where they like little dark places.”

And sometimes it’s a mystery. Jo Mercer had one dog who was too large to fit beneath the bed, but he would sometimes stick his face underneath it as far as he could. “I don’t know why,” she says. “Was he aggravating the cat? Sniffing out a mouse?”

What Should You Do if Your Dog Hangs Out Under the Bed?

If your dog is hiding under the bed, you may not need to do anything or you may need to take action. It depends on the reason. If your dog is hiding in response to noises such as fireworks or thunderstorms, Radosta recommends seeking veterinary advice sooner rather than later since studies show that noise fears can intensify over time. White noise machines, classical music, apps to alert you to approaching storms, a cozy hideaway in an enclosed windowless area such as a closet or bathroom, or in severe cases, medication, can all help. Dell found that a Thundershirt relaxed Jitter during fireworks.

Keep in mind that some dogs may hide when they are ill or in pain. If your dog suddenly starts hiding under the bed when they haven’t before, it may be time for a vet visit to make sure all is well.

However, if your dog simply enjoys lying under the bed, there’s nothing wrong with letting the quirk continue. Let it go unless there’s some risk to the dog.

The Best Flea & Tick Shampoos for Dogs

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
-
1
We tested five shampoos to find out which is the best flea and tick shampoo.
If you find yourself dealing with a flea or tick infestation, finding the right flea and tick shampoo for your dog can make all the difference. Credit: Jae Thomas

Despite our best efforts, dogs sometimes end up with fleas and ticks. If your dog has an active flea or tick infestation, knowing what steps to take to get rid of the pests will make the whole ordeal less stressful for you both.

Choosing the best flea and tick shampoo for dogs will depend on your dog, whether you have other pets in the home, and your vet’s recommendation.

What To Do if Your Dog Has Fleas

If your dog is dealing with an active flea infestation, Dr. Sarah Wooten, DVM, CVJ, recommends a multi-tiered approach to rid your dog and your home of fleas.

“Treat your dog with a fast-acting flea product recommended by your veterinarian,” she says. “Wash bedding and soft furnishings in hot water, vacuum carpets and furniture daily for at least a week, and treat the home and yard if needed.”

Flea shampoos can be used during active flea infestations. Though flea & tick shampoos are effective, Dr. Wooten says that “ideally shampoos should be used as an emergency measure.” She doesn’t recommend using shampoos as the only form of flea and tick control for pets.

Dr. Wooten says that flea and tick shampoos can be used alongside flea and tick preventatives, but that pet parents should be sure to check the labels of both products and ask their veterinarians before using them together.

“Shampoos can strip oils from the coat and temporarily reduce the effectiveness of topical preventives,” she says.

Traits We Want in Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs

Active ingredients: Dog flea and tick shampoos work through a few different types of active ingredients: pyrethrins (insecticides), insect growth regulators, or essential oils.

“Look for shampoos that contain pyrethrins or permethrin for dogs, or insect growth regulators like methoprene,” Dr. Wooten says. “These kill adult fleas and help break the life cycle.”

Dr. Wooten recommends pyrethrin and permethrin shampoos for active infestations over essential oil shampoos. “Pyrethrin and permethrin shampoos are more effective and have been tested for safety in dogs when used correctly,” she says. “Essential oil shampoos may repel fleas but are far less effective and some oils can be irritating or toxic. Always check labels to ensure the product is safe for dogs.”

Dog vs. cat safe: Households with both dogs and cats should be aware that some dog flea and tick shampoo ingredients are toxic to cats. Namely, options with permethrin should be avoided for cat households. Always talk to your vet about flea shampoos before choosing the one that’s best for your pets, even if the label says that it’s safe for both dogs and cats.

How To Prevent Fleas and Ticks on Your Dog

“Year-round flea and tick prevention prescribed by your veterinarian is the most reliable way to prevent infestations,” says Dr. Wooten. “Combine that with regular vacuuming, washing pet bedding, and keeping the environment clean.”

Dr. Wooten also says that “Every pet in the household should be on prevention.”

That includes cats if you live in a multi-species household! Ensure you only give preventative flea and tick treatments developed for dogs to dogs, and preventative medication meant for cats to cats. Many flea and tick prevention medications can be toxic when given to different species.

The Best Fleas & Tick Shampoos for Dogs

Whole Dog Journal RatingProduct and MakerPriceActive Ingredients and QuantitiesNotes
Adams Plus Flea & Tick Shampoo with Precor$11 for 6 ozPyrethrins: 0.15%, S-Methoprene: 0.10%, Piperonyl Butoxide: 1.88%One of Dr. Wooten’s top picks for flea & tick shampoos, this option contains pyrethrins which kill bugs on contact, as well as S-Methoprene, an insect growth regulator that stops young fleas and other pests from growing into adults and reproducing.
Advantage Flea & Tick Treatment Shampoo for Dogs & Puppies$15 for 8 ozPyrethrins: 0.15%, Piperonyl Butoxide: 0.30%,mgk 264: 0.479%Advantage Flea & Tick Treatment Shampoo is one of the few unscented options on this list, which is great for dogs sensitive to strong smells. However, despite having insecticides, it doesn’t contain any IGR ingredients.
Biogroom Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs$17 for 12 ozPyrethrins: 0.045%, Piperonyl Butoxide: 0.090%, N-Octyl Bicycloheptene Dicarboximide: 0.150%The Biogroom Flea & Tick Shampoo has lower concentrations of its active pest control ingredients than other options on this list. It also contains coconut oil, protein, and lanolin that make for a soft, moisturized coat.
Wondercide Natural Flea & Tick Dog and Cat Shampoo$20 for 12 ozCedarwood oil: 1%, Peppermint Oil: 1%If your vet recommends a more natural flea and tick shampoo for your dog, Wondercide is a popular option with peppermint and cedarwood oils as the main active ingredients.
Vet's Best Hypo-Allergenic Dog Shampoo$16 for 16 ozN/AVet’s Best Hypo-Allergenic Dog Shampoo isn’t a flea & tick-specific shampoo, but it can be used to remove fleas on dogs with sensitive skin in conjunction with other flea & tick control treatments.

Best Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs: Adams Plus Flea & Tick Shampoo with Precor

A border collie sniffs a bottle of flea and tick shampoo suspiciously.
Adams Plus Flea & Tick Shampoo with Precor contains both insecticides and insect growth regulators. It needs to be properly diluted before use but isn’t too hard on dogs’ coats. Credit: Jae Thomas

Dr. Wooten recommends that pet parents opt for veterinary-approved flea and tick shampoos, like Adams Plus Flea & Tick Shampoo with Precor. This concentrated shampoo contains Pyrethrins, which kill live fleas and ticks on contact, as well as S-Methoprene, an insect growth regulator.

Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are chemicals that prevent larvae from developing into reproductive adults, therefore stopping a flea infestation in its tracks.

Note that it’s recommended to use 1 1/3 teaspoons of this shampoo per 5 pounds of body weight, so it’s quite concentrated. Measuring out the shampoo before using it is key to ensure you don’t expose your pet to high levels of insecticides.

During testing, I discovered that this shampoo is also thicker than other options on this list. This makes it a good option for diluting in a dilution bottle with water to more evenly distribute it over your dog’s coat. Because it’s both thick and highly concentrated, it’s easy to use too much at once without noticing.

While testing, this shampoo left my dog’s coats feeling fairly soft and has a fresh, soapy scent.

Best Unscented Flea & Tick Shampoo: Advantage Flea & Tick Treatment Shampoo for Dogs & Puppies

Many flea and tick shampoos (especially those with essential oils as active ingredients) smell very strong, which can be off-putting for many dogs. If your dog is sensitive to certain scents, Advantage Flea & Tick Treatment Shampoo for Dogs & Puppies is a solid unscented flea & tick shampoo option.

Though this shampoo is mild and unscented and has a similar concentration of pyrethrins as the Adams Plus shampoo, we wish it contained an IGR ingredient to help stop infestations from recurring.

This shampoo is thinner and more watery than other options on this list, so it’s a little bit easier to distribute over your dog’s coat and lather up. It left my tester dogs’ coats feeling a little bit dry during testing, so it may not be great for dogs with dry skin/coat.

Best Moisturizing Flea & Tick Shampoo: Biogroom Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs

A border collie sniffing a bottle of flea and tick shampoo perched on the ledge of a bathtub.
Biogroom Flea & Tick Shampoo has a slightly lower concentration of active insecticides than other products we tested. It also left the tester dogs’ coats feeling the best. Credit: Jae Thomas

The Biogroom Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs contains slightly lower concentrations of its active insecticide ingredients than other options on this list, making it a good option for dogs who may be sensitive to these ingredients.

It can also be diluted with one part shampoo to four parts water, which I love, as it’s easier to evenly distribute diluted shampoo over a dog’s coat. Just grab a dilution bottle before use, and you’ll be good to go.

During testing, this shampoo left my tester dogs’ coats feeling the best after use. The protein, lanolin, and coconut oil in this option didn’t leave their coats or skin feeling dried out, and the scent was pleasant without being too overwhelming.

Best Natural Flea & Tick Shampoo: Wondercide Natural Flea & Tick Dog and Cat Shampoo

A more natural flea and tick shampoo is one of the available options for dogs.
Wondercide’s Flea & Tick shampoo is a good choice for those looking for a more natural flea and tick shampoo for dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas

If you decide (under the guidance of your vet) to use a natural or essential oil-based flea and tick shampoo, Wondercide is a popular option. Wondercide Natural Flea & Tick Dog and Cat Shampoo works with peppermint and cedarwood oils as the active ingredients. It’s recommended for dogs and cats 4 months of age and over and should be used once per week as needed.

For pet owners who use other Wondercide flea & tick products like home and yard sprays, the brand’s flea and tick shampoo can be safely used at the same time.

Where many flea & tick shampoos tend to be drying to the coat and skin, during testing, Wondercide’s shampoo made my dog’s coats feel soft.

Though I didn’t find the essential oil scents to be overpowering, if your dog is sensitive to strong smells, they may not love this peppermint-scented option. During testing, this shampoo didn’t lather up as well as other options on this list, so it was hard to tell if it was evenly distributed.

Best Flea & Tick Shampoo for Dogs with Sensitive Skin: Vet’s Best Hypo-Allergenic Dog Shampoo

Though this isn’t specifically a flea and tick shampoo, Dr. Wooten recommends Vet’s Best Hypo-Allergenic Dog Shampoo for certain dogs when dealing with active flea or tick infestations.

“For sensitive dogs, gentle cleansing shampoos without insecticides can help wash fleas away but won’t provide lasting control,” she says. “A gentle cleansing shampoo like Vet’s Best Hypo-Allergenic Dog Shampoo can be used alongside preventives.”

During testing, this shampoo left my Rough Collie’s long coat feeling soft and conditioned, even without the use of additional conditioner.

This gentle shampoo doesn’t contain any insecticide ingredients, so won’t immediately kill fleas or ticks. However, it can help wash them away. If your dog has ticks and you opt for this shampoo, consider using a tick key or tweezers to carefully remove the tick.

Could My Dog Have ADHD?

By
Joan Merriam
-
5
A dog with a tennis ball leaping playfully up. Leaping continuously is an obssessive behavior that is similar to ADHD in dogs.
ADHD-like behaviors in dogs may include having trouble staying still, barking excessively, being obsessed with play, having extreme destructive tendencies, and/or struggling to interact calmly with humans and other dogs. Credit: Alberto Menendez Cervero|Getty Images

I suspect we’ve all been there, maybe more than once: your dog is off playing and acts like he’s lost his hearing completely: you call his name—over and over—but he pays absolutely no attention. Or maybe he gets so excited that he seems to be bouncing off the walls, and there’s nothing you can do to calm him down. Or even after hours of training, he still jumps up on visitors when he first sees them.

At times like these, when you’re ready to tear out your hair in frustration, you may have wondered if it’s possible that your dog has ADHD…because he’s sure acting like it.

What is ADHD?

Attention-deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) is a highly inheritable, neurodevelopmental disorder characterized by symptoms including overactivity, impulsivity, and inattention. It usually exhibits in early childhood, can persist into adulthood, and can occur alongside other disorders such as anxiety and learning impairment.

So, could your dog have ADHD?

No, not really. ADHD as a disorder is exclusive to human beings. However, dogs can exhibit behaviors that mimic ADHD: inattention, hyperactivity, and impulsivity.

ADHD-Like Behaviors in Dogs

Some experts have referred to ADHD-like behaviors in dogs as hyperkinesis or  hypersensitivity–hyperactivity disorder. Today, many in the scientific establishment use the term ”ADHD-like” due to its similarity with ADHD in humans. Research has shown that up to 20 percent of dogs show high levels of these traits.

Dogs with ADHD-like behaviors may exhibit all of them simultaneously or may display one rather than another: they may be predominantly impulsive, predominantly hyperactive, predominantly inattentive, or may present with a blend of all three. The most problematic characteristic of the ADHD-like behavior in dogs is generally considered to be hyperactivity and/or impulsivity, resulting in difficulty staying still, excessive barking or vocalization, constant movement, obsession with play, extreme destructive tendencies, lack of self-control, and difficulty interacting with humans and other dogs. These behavioral symptoms are frequent enough that the quality of life of both the dog and its caretaker are affected.

The Role of Genetics, Living Conditions, and Physiology In ADHD-Like Behaviors in Dogs

In 2020, researchers in Finland studied over 13,000 dogs to determine their levels of ADHD-like behavior, and made some remarkable discoveries. In a nutshell, the study revealed that a combination of genetics, physiology and living environment contribute to a dog’s susceptibility to exhibit ADHD-like behaviors. As is the case with humans, ADHD-like behavior in dogs depends in large measure on the interaction between genes and environment.

Genetics

In humans, ADHD is associated with a disruption in various neurotransmitters such as serotonin, dopamine, and norepinephrine. Studies suggest that the origin of canine behaviors that resemble human ADHD could be very similar. For instance, in humans the neurotransmitter serotonin is involved in regulating our mood and emotions; altered serotonin transmission in humans with ADHD can be related to conditions such as obsessive–compulsive disorder, aggression, and major depression and/or anxiety. In dogs, low serotonin is associated with aggression, impulsiveness, fear, and ADHD-like behavior. Another example is dopamine: in humans, dopamine plays a critical role in attention and cognition. In dogs, abnormal dopamine levels are related to problems of aggression, impulsivity, attention deficits, and/or general nervousness.

Recent studies have shown that dogs with impulsive, hyperactive, and aggressive behaviors have low serotonin and dopamine levels in their urine, as well as low levels of serotonin in their blood. One study focused on English Cocker Spaniels—a breed often associated with idiopathic aggression—with genetic analysis finding that aggressive spaniels had significantly lower levels of serum serotonin than aggressive dogs of other breeds.

We also know that some dogs have been selectively bred to perform high-energy tasks: among them are hunting dogs, working breeds such as herding dogs, and terriers. The characteristics of these breeds such as high activity, excitability, and reactivity are inevitably passed down from one generation to the next through these dogs’ genes.

Living Conditions and Environment

Research shows that lack of socialization, especially in puppies, the use of punishment or aversive training techniques, limited nurturing from caregivers, and spending long periods of time alone are associated with ADHD-like behaviors in dogs. Dogs exercised irregularly or infrequently and those not exposed to outside activities and training tend to be more hyperactive and inattentive although it should be noted that the reverse can be true: hyperactivity and low attention levels could be due to a lack of exercise and/or training.  This is just one limitation of canine research, in that unlike with human subjects, researchers can’t directly access a dog’s feelings. (Scientists aren’t the only ones who wish they could!)

Physiology

A dog’s age tends to be a major contributor to the prevalence of hyperactivity, impulsiveness, and inattention, with these behaviors being more common in young dogs.  Unfortunately, even though this is a lifelong neurodevelopmental disorder, no longitudinal studies on ADHD-like conditions in dogs have ever been done.

As a rule, male dogs tend to develop ADHD-like conditions more frequently than females; the results are much less conclusive, however, when it comes to intact versus neutered males. Some studies found that intact dogs were more prone to ADHD-like behaviors, while others pointed to castrated dogs being more susceptible.

The Role of Breed

Numerous studies have shown that some breeds have a propensity for ADHD-like behaviors. Working dogs like German Shepherds and terriers show the highest levels of hyperactivity and impulsivity, whereas breeds with the highest levels of inattention were terriers, Golden Retrievers, and Chinese Crested dogs. Border Collies were an interesting mix, exhibiting very high levels of hyperactivity and impulsivity, but low measures of inattention. The most impulsive breeds were found to be terriers, German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, and Border Collies; the least impulsive were Standard Poodles, Golden Retrievers, and Shetland Sheepdogs.

It must be remembered, however, that breed is not determinative, nor is it all-encompassing. Again, each individual dog’s life experiences (especially those forged in puppyhood), environment, and socialization all contribute to their characteristics and behavior.

Treating ADHD-Like Behavior in Dogs

First and foremost, if you suspect that your dog may have the canine equivalent of ADHD, talk with your veterinarian to rule out any medical or health issues. If it’s determined that the dog’s behavior may be related to an ADHD-like condition, your vet may direct you to a behaviorist for further evaluation. That being said, be aware that no clear consensus exists for the diagnosis of canine ADHD in veterinary medicine. At the same time, there are no guidelines for ADHD-like behavior modification therapy or published studies showing the effectiveness of any behavior-modification treatment regimen.

That is not the case, however, with the use of pharmaceuticals. Veterinary specialists have found that dogs with ADHD-like problems respond to the same medication used to treat ADHD in humans. In particular, selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs) or tricyclic antidepressants are often recommended if aggression is a factor. Fluoxetine (Prozac) has been shown to be quite beneficial in cases of hyperactivity and is often considered a first-line treatment for ADHD-like conditions in dogs.

Clearly, there is a need for much more research into ADHD-like behavior in dogs, particularly with regard to effective treatments. The symptoms of ADHD in humans were initially described in the 16th century, and the first medication to treat the condition dates back to 1955. But it wasn’t until 1973 that the first study on what we now call ADHD-like behaviors in dogs was conducted, and the first experimental use of fluoxetine for dogs didn’t take place until 1993.

However, thanks to continued research into how dogs with this condition can be a powerful model for humans with ADHD, we may soon be able to offer our canine companions even more in the way of effective treatment for this debilitating condition.

Why Do Dogs Have Tails?

By
Dan Muse
-
0
Why do dogs have tails? Their tails help them with balance, mobility, and communication.
Caption: A dog’s tail helps him with movement, communication, and balance. Credit: Martin Ruegner | Getty Images

A wagging tail is often seen as a sign of a happy dog. But your dog’s tail is far more than a barometer of emotion: It’s a complex and highly functional extension of its spine that serves a variety of purposes.

Do Dogs Have Bones in Their Tails?

The short answer is, yes. A dog’s tail is a series of vertebrae that gets progressively smaller toward the tip. On average, a dog’s tail has between five and 20 vertebrae, which are surrounded by muscles, nerves, and blood vessels. “Dogs’ spines continue in their tails with caudal vertebrae. The number of caudal vertebrae varies between dogs,” says Jamie Whittenburg, DVM, chief of staff at Kingsgate Animal Hospital in Lubbock, Texas.

According to Bond Vets, a chain of veterinary clinics, because tails are made up of skeletal muscle and tendons/ligaments which, unlike the smooth muscle of intestines and blood vessels, it is under voluntary control. “It stands to reason that dogs have control over their tail movements just like they do over their leg movements,” says Bond Vets.

What’s the Purpose of a Dog’s Tail?

Your dog’s tail communicates a wide range of emotions and intentions to other dogs and to people. “Each dog is unique and has their own way to communicate their feelings and emotions,” says Dr. Whittenburg. “Some dogs use their tails more than others.”

And some of those uses are often misinterpreted, according to Tufts University. For example, a relaxed, friendly dog may have a tail that wags in a swishing or circular motion. However, if a dog is feeling anxious, fearful, or stressed, its tail is often lowered or tucked between its legs.

Lastly, a dog that is aroused or hyper alert may hold its tail up high and wag it in a stiff, quick motion. Rather than a sign of friendliness, it indicates a state of excitement, alertness, or aggression.

In addition to communications, a dog’s tail serves especially when the dog is running, jumping, or navigating uneven terrain. Fast, agile breeds use their tails like a rudder to shift weight and maintain stability. Think of your dog’s tail like a tightrope walker’s pole, which is used to constantly adjust their center of gravity.

What Is Dog Tail Docking?

Dog tail docking is the controversial practice of surgically removing part or all of a dog’s tail. It is typically performed on puppies that are only a few days old, often without anesthesia.

Historically, tail docking was performed on working dogs to prevent injuries that might occur while hunting or herding. It was also done for cosmetic reasons or to conform to specific breed standards set by kennel clubs.

However, the practice is now a subject of much debate. “Removing a dog’s tail can affect its communication and hinder the ability to express and convey emotions. I believe that tail docking is an unnecessary and cruel cosmetic procedure that negatively impacts dogs,” says Whittenburg.

Many veterinary organizations, including the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) and the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA), agree and  oppose the procedure.

The AVMA finds the question isn’t how harmful the procedure is but whether there is justification for removing it. “The only benefit that appears to be derived from cosmetic tail docking of dogs is the owner’s impression of a pleasing appearance. In the opinion of the AVMA, this is insufficient justification for performing a surgical procedure. deeming it medically unnecessary and a cause of pain and distress for the dog.”

The AVMA and RSPCA argue that a dog’s tail is essential for its well-being and communication, and as a result, the practice is now banned or heavily restricted in many countries.

Ultimately, the practice of tail docking is considered by most of the veterinary community to be a painful and unnecessary mutilation that deprives a dog of an integral part of its anatomy, essential for communication and overall well-being.

Broken and Injured Tails

Because it’s made up of vertebrae, your dog’s tail can be broken or injured.

Dr. Whittenburg says one of the common injuries she sees is degloving, where the skin is forcibly ripped from the tail. “This happens for a variety of reasons,” she says, “including being hit by a car and having their tails accidentally shut in doors.”

And then there’s “happy tail.” This also occurs frequently and is due to the impact of an exuberantly wagging tail hitting the wall and other objects. “The end of the tail splits open and typically there is a lot of blood seen,” says Dr. Whittenburg.

While typically not emergencies, these tail injuries expose delicate nerves that cause pain, so veterinary intervention is advised.  “Sometimes, bandaging the injured area and giving antibiotics and pain medication will prevent infection, calm the nerves, and allow the tail to heal. In severe, chronic cases where the wagging will not stop and the injury will not heal, the best solution is surgical shortening of the tail,” advises the VCA Animal Hospitals.

Ultimately, a tail is a multifaceted part of your dog’s anatomy. It’s an indispensable tool for balance and communication, and a vital component of its overall well-being. Understanding the function of the tail—beyond just a wag—lets you better interpret your dog’s emotions, appreciate their unique physical abilities, and advocate for their health.

Temporary Fences for Dogs

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
-
3
Not all temporary fencing for dogs can keep dogs restrained as this dog climbing over a fence demonstrates.
Be aware that some temporary dog fences can offer a terrific escape route to a dog who doesn’t mind the climb. Credit: Dageldog | Getty Images

Whether you’re traveling, remodeling your backyard, or need a fence to put up at camp or at your RV, a good outdoor temporary dog fencing for dogs can keep you and your dog happy.  A portable temporary fence can give your dog a little freedom, but it must be safe and secure.

But not just any old fence will do, and the internet is flooded with temporary dog fence ideas—many of which won’t give us peace of mind.

Types of quality temporary dog fences include:

  • Plastic mesh
  • Wire mesh
  • Ex-pens, also called exercise pens
  • Free-standing kennels with or without a roof
  • Metal no-dig fence panels by the piece

Let’s dig into more about each of these choices.

Plastic Mesh as a Temporary Dog Fence

Temporary fences for dogs made from plastic mesh may work for competition, but may not be much of a barrier long term.
Plastic mesh fence is often used as temporary dog fencing at dog sporting events, but it often lacks the sturdiness and safety needed for long-term, unsupervised control. Credit: Basak Gurbuz Derman | Getty Images

Often called snow fence or safety fence, this is typically the type of fencing that you might see at construction sites. It comes in many colors. Standard size is 4 feet high by 100 feet long but can also be purchased in shorter heights and smaller rolls.

You can use metal rods to secure it or wrap it around trees if the area supports such an option. This is what I used to patch a tree made hole in my fence until the fencing repair people could get me on their schedule. I have also used this for a temporary fence for a rescue group picnic for the dogs who came along to socialize. It is often used at dog sporting events, where the dogs are under verbal control or on a leash. This is not the best fence to choose if your dog will be unsupervised.

You can buy this type of fence online from home supply stores as well as U-Line and Amazon. There are countless brands, some of which are marketed as temporary dog fences, and some are simply sold as safety/snow fencing.

Pros of plastic mesh fencing: Relatively inexpensive, easy to use, very visible.

Cons of plastic mesh fencing: Can be difficult to secure, making it of questionable use for a determined canine escape artist, even with a secure bottom.

Wire Mesh as a Temporary Dog Fence

There are a multitude of wire mesh options, including chicken wire, which is made of flexible galvanized steel to varying strengths of welded steel mesh. The thickness determines the cost, with chicken wire being less expensive than a sturdier welded weave. This can make a very solid temporary fence along with the metal poles necessary to secure it.

Pros of wire fence: Sturdier than plastic mesh, which makes it easier to handle while installing install and a stronger choice than plastic, especially for a large dog. Woven wire chicken wire can be relatively inexpensive.

Cons of wire fence: Welded steel can be nearly as expensive and challenging to install as a permanent fence when looking at the hardier weaves. Yardgard offers quality fence in this category.

Exercise Pens as a Temporary Fence for Dogs

Shelter dogs in wire kennel cage outdoors on a grass lawn
Stringing together a number of ex-pens and ensuring the resulting enclosure is sturdy is probably the simplest temporary dog fence. Just be aware of the height the dogs behind the enclosure can jump and any dogs who enjoy a good climb.
Credit: Debibishop | Getty Images

You can get several ex-pens and link them together as well as securing them to the ground with the metal rods for such that come with most models. There are also some very nice choices meant to be used outdoor models that come in various sizes, including quite large. They come in varying heights, with or without built-in gates.

I prefer them without gates. I simply open the securing connectors when releasing the dog(s). I find that to be the more secure option. Gates can be accidentally opened. The clips, when clipped properly, are far less likely to do so.

Pros of ex-pens: In many ways, this can be the most inexpensive option, especially if you find some at garage sales, and they’re oh-so-easy to set up.

Cons of ex-pens: These aren’t the most sturdy option for determined escapers. Brands that I found for outdoor use include FXW Rollick and Zippity Outdoor Products. Most are widely available with FXW even being available on Chewy. They also make indoor versions that can be used outdoors. Midwest products offers a wide variety of ex-pen options as well.

Free-Standing Kennels as Temporary Fencing for Dogs

This type of temporary fencing is exactly what it sounds like. An actual kennel, freestanding and not needing to be secured in ground, available with or without a roof. They are probably the most secure type of temporary fencing of the options, simply because the fencing for these is so high, even more secure when you opt for the type with a roof.

Pros of free-standing kennels: Kennels are generally secure, easy to set up, and self-shaded when opting for roofed version.

Cons of free-standing kennels: Kennels are expensive for a large enough option to include sufficient room to run, perhaps the least attractive option if you are not fond of the cage-like look. Brands that I liked include Veikhous, Retriever Lodge, KennelMaster, and K9 Kennelstore.

Metal No-Dig Fence Panels as Temporary Fencing for Dogs

I found this to be a most interesting option for a temporary dog fence. Some of the options don’t really specify the type of metal used but other options mention wrought iron. All state there is no need to dig to install and that only a rubber mallet is necessary to pound each piece into place. They range in heights from 24 inches to 48 inches. You choose how many panels to purchase and that determines the total cost.

Pros of metal no-dig fence panels: They’re easy to install and relatively inexpensive compared to some other options, sturdy if you choose wrought iron.

Cons of metal no-dig fence panels: The lack of posts concerns me, as it can make this option much less secure. Brands for this option include Zippity Outdoor Products and Jinligogo (wrought iron option).

Considerations In Choosing a Temporary Dog Fences

Some important points to take into consideration that can help you choose the best option for your dog, the location of the fence, and how long you’ll need to use it.

Height of the fence: For smaller dogs, 4 feet is sufficient. Large dogs may need 6 feet. Keep in mind that most experts suggest that a dog can jump one to three times his shoulder height. Additionally, many dogs can and will scale a metal fence easily, especially younger dogs.

Sturdiness of the fence: Your dog should not be able to wobble the fence or tip it over by jumping on it or leaning against it.

Your dog’s climbing/digging abilities: If your dog is an expert climber or digger, then this means special additions for your temporary fence are necessary. For your darling digger, I love Dig Defence. For the climbers, you can consider a Coyote Roller. If you’re clever, y ou may be able to do a DIY version using inexpensive PVC as opposed to the original metal version. Originally created to keep coyotes out of fenced-in areas, it also keeps your climbing canine monkey inside.

Your dog’s energy and activity levels: If you have an adolescent who considers zoomies light cardio, then you need more room than if you have a senior who just wants to sit/lay outside and meditate with nature. Of course, this also depends on how you intend to use the fence.

Your dog’s reactivity level: If your dog is the type to bark or react in any way to typical triggers that may include other dogs, passing humans, children playing, bicycles/wheeled recreational toys, cars, etc., then what they see from inside of the fence is an important consideration for the type or fencing as well as the location of such. Again, this will depend on how you intend to use this temporary fence.

Typical Uses for a Temporary Dog Fence

All the above-mentioned options can be successfully used on a temporary basis while remodeling or saving up for a permanent fence. Some will require more supervision than others, such as the snow fence, no-dig panels, and ex-pen options.

If you are installing this temporary fence on grass or dirt, which is the typical choice, then metal with secured poles will be the sturdiest choice but also the most labor intensive to install. This is the way to go if you have a large sturdy dog who will challenge the fence. Add the Dig Defence options for diggers or the Coyote Roller top for climbers.

But if you truly want this fence to be temporary and as low maintenance as possible, the best prevention for digging is simply supervision. One cannot say the same for jumpers, who will jump whether supervised or not. So, choose as tall a fence as appropriate for your beloved jumper. For your reactive dog, you can easily cover the metal fence with privacy screen made from polyethylene mesh.

The kennel options can be placed on either a grass surface or a concrete surface such as a driveway, if you are remodeling your yard. This option requires the least supervision, if you properly secure it, but it’s also typically the most confining option, which is not ideal depending on your needs.

For traveling, the choices are less abundant. How you are traveling determines the size of your temporary fence. The larger options can be stored on an RV/motor home. Smaller options can be transported on a roof rack. Most of the travel options are basically larger metal ex-pen type containment systems that are suited for outdoors rather than indoors. Or you can link several smaller ex-pens together to create a larger area, along with the metal yard poles that typically come with the pens. There are also very lightweight interlinking plastic ex-pen options for smaller or more sedate dogs. Several of the No Dig Panels are marketed as RV fences for traveling. Supervision is recommended for these types of temporary fences, especially since traveling can add some excitement or anxiety to your dog’s typical temperament.

Whatever option you end up with, think in terms of safety and cover all your bases—climbing, jumping, digging—and you should be able to keep your dog safe, temporarily, of course.

Can Dogs Have Panic Attacks?

By
Dr. Kate Mornement Phd, CAAB
-
5
Dogs can have panic attacks, or at least sudden fear episodes that are very similar.
If your dog is having a panic attach, stay calm, find a safe place for them, and use soothing strategies where possible. Never punish a dog experiencing a panic attach as it could make the fear and anxiety worse. Credit: Alexandra Jursova | Getty Images

Have you ever wondered if dogs can have panic attacks? Many pet owners are surprised to learn that our four-legged friends can experience sudden and overwhelming episodes of fear that look a lot like human panic attacks. If you dog has ever trembled, panted heavily, sweat from their paws, or frantically tried to escape for no obvious reason, you’ll understand how distressing it can be to watch.

In this article we’ll explore what a dog panic attack looks like, why it happens, and what you can do to help your dog feel safe and reduce their anxiety.

Can Dogs Have Panic Attacks?

In humans, a panic attack is defined as a sudden episode of intense fear that triggers severe physical and emotional responses (American Psychiatric Association, 2013). Although we don’t currently have a diagnostic framework available for dogs, we do see that dogs can exhibit similar episodes of acute distress.

Indeed, veterinary behaviorists and animal welfare researchers recognise that dogs can show signs of severe panic, especially related to noise phobias, separation anxiety, or post-traumatic stress disorder (Dreschel, 2010). These episodes often involve a sudden and extreme fear and/or anxiety response that overwhelms a dog’s ability to cope in the moment.

So, while there is no official veterinary diagnosis for dog panic attacks, dogs can certainly experience episodes of intense fear and anxiety that mirror human panic attacks.

Dog Panic Attack Symptoms

Recognising the signs that your dog is having a panic attack is the first step to helping your dog. Common symptoms of a panic attack in dogs include physical changes such as rapid breathing, dilated pupils, and raised heart rate (Beerda et al., 1997) and behavioural signs including pacing, excessive barking or whining, destructive behaviour, and attempts to escape.

Panic attacks in dogs differ from general anxiety in that they are intense and sudden. Anxiety may be present in the background, but a panic attack is like a sudden storm; overwhelming and often extreme. Dogs will typically not be interested in eating food or treats during a panic attack.

What Causes Panic Attack Symptoms in Dogs?

Panic attacks in dogs can have several different underlying causes. These include:

  • Situational triggers like loud noises (e.g. fireworks, thunderstorms), car rides, vet visits, or confinement (Blackwell et al., 2013).
  • Underlying anxiety disorders such as separation anxiety and noise phobias (Overall, 2013; Ogata, 2016).
  • Medical issues like pain, neurological conditions, or thyroid disease (Mills et al., 2014).
  • Genetic and developmental factors. Some dogs can be predisposed to panic attacks due to breed tendencies, a lack of early socialisation, or previous traumatic experiences (Tira & Lohi, 2014).

In short, some dogs are more prone to panic attacks due to a combination of genetics, past experiences, and the environment.

What To Do If Your Dog Has a Panic Attack

If your dog is having a panic attack the goal is to help relieve their fear and anxiety and help them feel safe. Practical steps include:

  • Remain calm—this can be difficult but remember that dogs are sensitive to our emotional states.
  • Provide a safe space—a quiet room, covered crate, or hiding spot can help when the trigger is occurring at home. If the panic attack is happening during a walk, try to create distance between your dog and the trigger by moving away out of sight.
  • Soothing strategies—calming music or white noise can help drown out auditory triggers while pheromone diffusers or a pressure wrap can help reduce arousal.
  • Offer comfort—being present can help however avoid excessive reassurance if it escalates your dog’s agitation.
  • Distraction—food enrichment or treats (e.g. lick mats or chews) may help to distract your dog if their panic attack is not too severe.
  • Avoid punishment—this can make fear and anxiety worse.

Medium- and Long-Term Management Strategies for Dogs with Panic Attacks

Knowing what to do when your dog has a panic attack is important in the short term, however medium and long term management and training strategies will help to reduce the duration, frequency and intensity of panic attacks in dogs:

Lifestyle Support

Lifestyle strategies such as maintaining consistent routines, ensuring your dog is getting adequate physical and mental exercise and enrichment, and staying in more predictable environments can help minimise anxiety and reduce stress.

Behaviour Modification

Desensitisation and counterconditioning—gradual exposure to triggers paired with positive experiences (e.g. treats, praise and play)—can help change the dogs underlying emotional response to the trigger (Levine et al., 2007). In addition, relaxation training and pattern games can help to promote calmer behaviour, especially in the presence of triggers.

Complementary Aids and Professional Help

If your dog is having panic attacks, getting a veterinary consultation to rule out a medical issue is important. If no relevant medical conditions are found, a referral to a veterinary behaviorist or certified applied animal behaviorist is a good next step.

Medications such as SSRIs, tricyclic antidepressants or anxiolytics may be recommended by a vet for severe or frequent panic attacks (Overall, 2013). Calming supplements, pheromones (e.g. Adaptil), and weighted/pressure garments can also be worthwhile additions to help reduce stress and anxiety.

The goal of medium- and long-term strategies is to improve your dog’s ability to cope with fear and anxiety caused by the trigger of their panic attacks and, ultimately, stop them from occurring.

Prognosis for Dogs Who Have Panic Attacks

So, can dogs have panic attacks? Yes, they can experience sudden and overwhelming episodes of fear and anxiety that look very similar to those experienced by humans. The good news is that with the right support, management, behaviour modification, and sometimes veterinary support, most dogs can improve significantly.

If your dog shows panic attack symptoms, don’t wait. It’s important to seek guidance from your vet or qualified behaviour professional. Helping your dog through panic isn’t just about reducing their fear in the moment, it’s about building long term resilience and trust through a consistent, kind, and positive approach.

References
American Psychiatric Association. (2013). Diagnostic and statistical manual of mental disorders. American psychiatric association.

Beerda, B., Schilder, M. B., van Hooff, J. A., & de Vries, H. W. (1997). Manifestations of chronic and acute stress in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 52(3-4), 307-319.

Blackwell, E. J., Bradshaw, J. W., & Casey, R. A. (2013). Fear responses to noises in domestic dogs: Prevalence, risk factors and co-occurrence with other fear related behaviour. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 145(1-2), 15-25.

Dreschel, N. A. (2010). The effects of fear and anxiety on health and lifespan in pet dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 125(3-4), 157-162.

Levine, E. D., Ramos, D., & Mills, D. S. (2007). A prospective study of two self-help CD based desensitization and counter-conditioning programmes with the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone for the treatment of firework fears in dogs (Canis familiaris). Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 105(4), 311-329.

Mills, D., Karagiannis, C., & Zulch, H. (2014). Stress—its effects on health and behavior: a guide for practitioners. Veterinary Clinics: Small Animal Practice, 44(3), 525-541.

Ogata, N. (2016). Separation anxiety in dogs: What progress has been made in our understanding of the most common behavioral problems in dogs?. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 16, 28-35.

Overall, K. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats-E-Book: Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats-E-Book. Elsevier Health Sciences.

Tiira, K., & Lohi, H. (2015). Early life experiences and exercise associate with canine anxieties. PloS one, 10(11), e0141907.

Why Is My Dog Eating Leaves?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
1
Although they're crunchy and have a nice mouthfeel a dog eating leaves can be a problem if those leaves are toxic.
Your dog may be eating leaves because he’s bored. The concern is whether those leaves contain toxins. Credit: Standret | Getty Images

More to the point, can your dog eat leaves? In most cases, the answer is no! Some leaves are toxic. Most leaf chewing is done in an exploratory way by puppies, and they aren’t really going all out and “eating” leaves. Dogs may also chew on leaves out of boredom.

For example, foxglove and oleander contain digitalis-like toxins that may affect the way heart’s ability to beat normally. With oleander, even one or two leaves could be fatal to your dog. There are even accounts of dogs dying after drinking from a water bowl that had oleander leaves blown into the bowl.

Many plant leaves are not deadly for dogs, but their leaves may cause gastric irritation, diarrhea, and vomiting.

Locust tree leaves may be deadly. Oak leaves are not usually deadly, for example, but can cause lots of gastrointestinal symptoms.

Can dogs run and play in leaf piles? Yes, and many dogs love to do that. Be aware, however, that the leaf pile may contain fleas or ticks because they gravitate to those piles too. While playing in a leaf pile, your dog may grab and toss leaves, but they don’t usually ingest them.

Why Do Dogs Chew on Plants?

It may be to add fiber to their diets. While you could grow a safe mini grass plot like many cat owners do, it is simpler to add some plain canned pumpkin to your dog’s diet.

Why Do Dogs Eat Sticks?

Sticks seem to be an attractive play toy. Many dogs chew on sticks because they are handy, especially if your dog is out in the yard and bored, and because you throw them. While a sturdy, non-toxic stick may be relatively safe for your dog to chew on, if he is ingesting wood that can cause problems down the road. Sticks from poisonous trees and plants are toxic, so unless you know for sure, it’s best if your dog doesn’t play or consume stick pieces.

Despite the fun your dog can have with a stick, it is best to avoid getting your dog “hooked” on them. Dogs have knack for getting short pieces of sticks stuck on the roof of their mouth. You will see your dog drooling, panting, and pawing somewhat frantically at his mouth. If your dog is relatively calm, you may be able to remove this yourself but if he is frantic, be careful or you may get bitten by accident.

There are many horrifying tales of dogs running with sticks and accidentally impaling themselves. Those injuries can range from minor emergency room visits to serious surgeries or even death.

How to Stop Dogs From Chewing on Sticks

In addition to adding plain pumpkin to your dog’s diet, make sure your dog has plenty of safe chew items.

Sturdy chew toys can safely take the place of sticks. For my dogs, Kong products tend to survive the best. Most “tough” stuffed type toys are destroyed quickly. West Paws toys also hold up well. Even with these tough toys, I try to check every day or so for any ripped off areas or places where the dogs are chewing little pieces off.

Pet-Friendly Weed Killers

By
CJ Puotinen
-
16
Pet safe weed killer can keep your yard looking great while keeping your dog safe.
Many commercial weed killers contain ingredients that are harmful to dogs. However, there are some pet-friendly options—commercial and DIY—that can help keep your yard weed-free and dog-safe. Credit: Akifyeva Svetlana | Getty Images

Well-designed research studies show that conventional lawn care exposes dogs to herbicides like 2,4-D and glyphosate (Roundup), increasing their risk of developing bladder cancer, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, multicentric lymphoma, and other malignancies.

Risk factors include the frequency of herbicide applications, the chemicals involved, proximity to agricultural land that is routinely treated, and geographical location. In August 2025, the Dog Aging Project reported that its survey of 47,444 dogs across the United States gathered from January 2020 to December 2023 compared environmental exposures to health outcomes in four regional areas. Regular weed control corresponded with adverse health outcomes in dogs living in the South and Midwest more than in the West or Northeast. This finding corresponds with a 2019 NBC News map of toxic herbicide application by state.

Alternative Weed Killers That Are Safer for Pets

Rather than chemical herbicides, organic garden stores offer weed-killing products with safer ingredients such as:

  • Vinegar (acetic acid, household or concentrated for horticultural use)
  • Sodium chloride, sea salt, table salt, pool salt, or Epsom salts
  • Citric acid or lemons
  • Essential oils used in aromatherapy
  • Iron sulfate
  • Corn gluten meal

These ingredients disrupt cell walls, cause dehydration and nutrient imbalances, or suppress weed seed germination. Soap, fatty acids, and sodium lauryl sulfate are used as surfactants to mix ingredients and break down surface tension, helping sprays penetrate leaves.

Differences between brands depend on ingredient combinations and their concentration. For example:

An Experiment with Pet-Friendly Weed Killers
The authors experiements with homemade pet-friendly weed killers yielded exciting results.
The author sprayed a DIY formula on part of a persistent thistle patch, with visible results. Credit: CJ Puotinen

For years, Montana thistles have thrived in my yard. This year I tried pet-friendly herbicides, starting with Spruce, which contains surfactants and essential oils. I followed label instructions (air temperatures were above 60 degrees F, the weather was sunny, and the ground was dry) but even though I applied the weed killer hours before rain came (the product claims to be rain-proof 10 minutes after application), and even though results looked dramatic within an hour (weeds wilted and turned grey), my thistle patch quickly revived and looked vibrant.

After watching several DIY weed-killer videos, I mixed 1 cup of pool salt with 1 gallon 30% horticultural vinegar, 2 tablespoons dish washing liquid, and 3 gallons water in a battery-operated garden sprayer. On that hot, dry August day I sprayed thistles and other weeds, staying far from lawn grass. Within an hour, the sprayed plants wilted and died. A month later, they are still dead.

Easy DIY Formulas for Pet-Friendly Weed Killers

There are also dozens of do-it-yourself pet-friendly weed sprays, all of which are less expensive than commercial brands. To apply them, use a garden watering can, hand-held sprayer, or battery-operated spray tank. Double or triple ingredients to create larger quantities.

Basic Vinegar Weed Killer

  • Combine 1 gallon distilled white vinegar (the concentration sold for household use) with 1 cup salt (any type) and 1 tablespoon dish soap.
  • Mix in a clean sprayer and apply to weeds. Protect nearby plants from overspray that will kill them, too. Most weeds will wilt and die within 24 to 48 hours.
  • Repeat for tough or resistant weeds.

Epsom Salt Blend

  • Combine 1 gallon vinegar with 2 cups Epsom salts and 1/4 cup dish soap.
  • Pour into a spray bottle and apply to unwanted plants. Use around patios and walkways but not near lawns.

Vinegar-Baking Soda Blend

  • Combine 1 gallon vinegar with 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 teaspoon dish soap.
  • Vigorously shake to mix the ingredients, then spray thoroughly on weeds.

Borax Weed Killer

  • Mix 1 cup Borax (laundry additive) with just enough water to create a sticky paste. Wear gloves while mixing.
  • Use pruning shears to cut target weeds to the ground, leaving a small stump.
  • Apply the paste generously to freshly cut stems. This cut-and-paste method works best on large, semi-woody weeds like thistles. Keep the paste away from plants you don’t want to damage.

Essential Oil Weed Killer

  • Mix together 1 tablespoon essential oil (any combination of clove, peppermint, wintergreen, orange, citrus, and/or cinnamon) in a spray bottle with 1 tablespoon liquid soap and 1 gallon water.
  • Shake well to combine ingredients and spray on weeds.

Alcohol Weed Killer

  • Combine 3 cups vodka (ethanol) or rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol with 2 teaspoons dishwashing liquid.
  • Spray to cover weeds.

Cornmeal Pre-Emergent Weed Killer

  • Prevent weed seeds from germinating by spreading cornmeal gluten labeled for use on lawns and gardens around flower beds and paths. This will not affect existing plants but prevents new weed growth.
  • Apply whenever weed sprouts appear.

Mulching

Heat Kills Weeds

  • Boiling water is recognized by the S. Environmental Protection Agency as an effective spot treatment for weed removal. Simply pour boiling water from a pan or tea kettle over weeds to cover them completely.
  • Another way to provide damaging heat is with a flame thrower, which is best used immediately after rain or watering, when there is minimal danger of spreading a fire.

Safe Application of Pet-Friendly Weed Killers

Use common sense when applying weed killers, even those considered pet safe. If recommended, wear rubber gloves, clothing that protects your skin, and, in breezy weather or when using strong concentrations, a face mask.

None of the products mentioned here claim to be safe for pets to touch or lick when first applied. Dogs should be kept indoors or away from treated vegetation until it has completely dried. Most surfaces should be safe for pets to walk on or near after 12 to 24 hours unless labels instruct otherwise. None of these products make weeds taste better, so it would be unusual for most dogs to consume them, but because swallowing treated weeds is not recommended and salt or other residues can irritate canine paw pads, redirect your puppy’s attention away from recently treated areas.

Tips for Best Results with Pet-Friendly Herbicides

Before applying a pet-friendly weed killer, prepare the area by trimming tall weeds so herbicide solutions can reach exposed leaves and stems. If possible, treat weeds during midday under direct sun, when temperatures are high, and when no rain has fallen for a few days. Follow label directions, most of which recommend saturating weeds from leaf tips to roots. Thirsty weeds absorb weed killers quickly and results are obvious within an hour or two. Multiple treatments may be needed, so be ready to reapply weed killers if plants recover or new weeds sprout.

Conditions that interfere with a treatment’s effectiveness include cool temperatures, high humidity, recent rain, or rain after treatment.

Deep-rooted weeds resist most nontoxic weed killers, so hand-pulling from damp ground, such as after rain, is an effective removal method.

Keep weed killers away from plants or grass that you want to preserve. This is especially important when using products that contain salt, borax, or concentrated vinegar, which can spread from treated areas to grass or desired plants and damage them. Salt- or borax-treated areas can become sterile so that nothing grows there until the soil is replaced.

Your Pet-Friendly Weed Control Calendar

Time of year can affect the best ways to manage weeds in your yard. Here are some seasonal tips for pet-friendly weed control:

Autumn doesn’t mean that weed season is over—in fact, it’s just beginning. September and October are ideal months for targeting perennial weeds before dormancy. Use spot treatments after raking or mowing leaves. Overseed lawns with native grasses to crowd out existing weeds. Helpful autumn ingredients include vinegar, salt, citric acid, clove oil, and citrus essential oils.

Winter weeds are usually dormant, but some cold-hardy annuals may appear in mild climates. If weeds appear in paths or patio cracks, apply boiling water or vinegar spot treatments. Salt blends are useful where decorative plants won’t be growing next spring.

Spring brings life, along with sprouting weeds, to lawns and gardens. Focus on prevention and weed removal. Apply pet-safe pre-emergent products like corn meal gluten and apply vinegar, boiling water, essential oils, or citric acid to inhibit weeds.

Summer warmth supports rapid weed growth, especially perennials. Spot treat weeds with natural sprays. For patios and cement cracks, apply boiling water or salt-based sprays. Summer’s heat maximizes the effectiveness of vinegar, salt, and essential oils in pet-friendly sprays.

Not sure which weeds you have or which are annuals or perennials? See

37 Lawn and Garden Weeds or Common Garden Weed Identification for help.

Preventing Future Weeds in Pet-Friendly Ways

Simple precautions can keep weeds from coming back. To help maintain a weed-free yard:

  • Don’t mow your lawn too low. Keep grass length at 2 to 3 inches to shade seeds and minimize weed growth.
  • Seed and repair patchy lawn areas to prevent weeds.
  • Use phosphorus-rich fertilizers to help grass roots spread, creating thicker lawns.
  • Mulch garden beds to prevent spreading weeds.
  • Pull weeds as soon as you notice them.
  • Minimize foot traffic, vehicles driving over the area, or unnecessary digging to keep from disturbing the soil and inviting opportunistic weeds.

 

What Are the Best Dog Exercises for Canine Conditioning?

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
-
0
Exercise for dogs is just as important as it is for humans it can improve their balance and overall conditioning level.
Balancing exercises for your dog build core strength and are fun for both you and your dog. Credit: Chris Mueller | Getty Images

All dogs can benefit from dog exercise of some sort, but especially canine conditioning, as it’s appropriate for canine athletes as well as senior couch potatoes and everything in between and beyond, including puppies.

Last summer, I helped a client keep her pup physically exercised while we were going through an intense heat wave in my area. Walks in her neighborhood were out of the question due to hot pavement. The yard was great for short ball play, but the dog needs more than that. That led me down the rabbit hole that is canine conditioning, and I am hooked on this subject. I had no idea that there were so many ways to physically condition dogs with simple but effective exercises like what humans do.

Obviously, before you begin any sort of exercise program for your dog, get approval from your veterinarian. Knowing what to avoid for your pup is important to staying safe, especially if you have a dog with even a tiny bit of arthritis or any kind of joint issues. It also helps to obtain at least a baseline education on dog anatomy. Puppies should not be participating in anything that involves jumping, running on hard surfaces, or balancing until their bones are fully formed.

For dogs who can do cardio, that is a great part of a fitness program. Cardio is anything that uses more lung capacity such as running, swimming, jogging, fetch, agility, and other dog sports. But cardio alone is not canine conditioning.

Fast twitch muscles are utilized in short but intense movements such as the zoomies, intense tug exercises, jumping, stair climbing, juking back and forth, and so on.

Canine conditioning for dog sports generally includes specific strength training and/or stretching exercises for the individual sport that a dog is participating in. While strengthening the muscles needed for that sport, it is important to consider the SAID principle, which is equally a consideration for human physical conditioning and strength training.

SAID stands for Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demands. It is believed that muscles, tendons, ligaments, and bones respond to purposeful stress by getting stronger. The physical patterns that are used in each sport being replicated by training gets the body used to those movements. In dog behavior modification, we call this creating new nerve patterns. I expect that it will be similar here. See this website for more on this subject

Now let’s delve into how some of these strength training/stretching exercises can be done at home, even if your dog is not participating in sports. Truly, all dogs can benefit from strengthening their core and muscles.

Stretching Exercises for Dogs

Natural stretches: You can capture your dog stretching when they do it naturally by using a marker word or clicker, if they already know what that means. Once they understand what you are marking, you can put it on cue. My puppy often moves into a sit from a down in to stretch his upper body and his neck, as well as stretching his front legs out with his toes extended. These are excellent stretches to capture. Some people teach their dogs to offer a play bow on cue, and that is also a stretch. The possibilities are nearly endless. Once you mark the behavior consistently, name it to put it on cue.

Figure 8s: Walking in figure 8s like you might do in Rally or zigzagging through weave poles are also versions of stretching. If you’re not training agility, you can lure your dog through poles with either a treat in your hand or a target stick to start. That will also work with figure 8s. Placing objects that you want to curve around for figure 8s will help your dog better understand this process.

Balancing Exercises for Dogs

Teaching your dog to place all four paws on a stable surface is how you start this process. Most dogs already have some sort of cue or even just an inclination to jump up on raised surfaces. If your dog doesn’t, make sure that the initial surface is low enough to not be uncomfortable for that dog. I simply use an “up” cue. Once this is mastered, consider a less stable surface such as a pillow for a small dog or the couch or a large dog bed for a larger dog. The trick here is to work with the dog standing on that surface rather than laying down.

If you have not already taught your dog to stand on cue, start there. I use a flat hand, palm down with fingers tight together, and move my hand face down horizontally from the dog’s nose when they are seated with a small treat between my fingers. I mark the moment that the dog is on all fours and then food reward and then add the cue word when it’s consistently being followed. Make sure that your dog feels safe on the surface with all four paws before you add the cue for this. Balancing uses their muscles in such a way that they strengthen their core. If your dog is more athletic, use a balance/wobble board or even make one with a hard flat surface with a ball underneath one end.

Strengthening Exercises for Dogs

A popular exercise in puppy classes is puppy pushups (also called “puppy aerobics”). This is one of the easiest ways to strengthen your dog with low impact. First get that sit, and then the down. Repeat. You can add a stand in there as well for even more strengthening exercise. Make sure that you are naming/marking/rewarding each step.

If you have ever taken a fun agility class, you have likely seen some of the equipment that can double as conditioning equipment. These include wobble boards, low-set teeter totters, the A-frame (lowered), weave poles, low jumps, ladder walks, and the like. All of these tools help teach body awareness.

Not all of these are right for all dogs needing conditioning, of course. Puppies and senior dogs don’t need to do jumps, teeter totters, or anything that can affect mobility issues. Wobble boards can scare some dogs so there are other options that can achieve the same results such as the soft surfaces mentioned above. Ladder walks teach paw/spatial awareness and help with stability control.

Physical conditioning exercises will keep your dog in top shape while exercising both their body and mind. It’s important to make all the exercises fun with treats for a job well done, never over face your dog with too many repetitions or obstacles he’s not ready for, and—of course—safety first.

What You Need to Know About Anemia in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
-
4
Anemia in dogs can cause fatigue and a lack of desire to play.
An anemic dog may ignore formerly enticing games—like a ball rolling by—because he lacks energy. Anemia seriously reduces blood oxygen levels. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

Anemia in dogs is defined as a deficiency of red blood cells. Red blood cells deliver nutrients and oxygen to cells and organs and carry carbon dioxide to the lungs to be exhaled. Without adequate red blood cells, your dog’s heart and lungs go into overdrive to try to make up for the lack of oxygen in the dog’s body and keep the body functioning. Anemia is serious.

 

What Causes Anemia in Dogs?

A healthy dog has a nice balance of new red blood cells being produced in the bone marrow and obsolescent and damaged cells being extracted in the spleen. Any disease that reduces the production of new cells or hastens the destruction of red blood cells can cause anemia. Disease, trauma, and parasitic infections can cause anemia.

How Do I Know My Dog Is Anemic?

With a lack of circulating red blood cells, your dog’s heart and lungs are working overtime to try make up for body’s oxygen deficit. Most dogs with anemia will be lethargic, often not interested in usual fun activities or only able to do them for a short time.

A dog battling anemia may show:

  • Pale gum and mucous membrane color
  • Slow capillary refill time
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Lack of appetite
  • Increased heart rate
  • Increased respiratory rate

How Is Anemia in Dogs Diagnosed?

Diagnosis of the cause will start with bloodwork, a tick-disease panel, fecal analysis, and a thorough physical examination, including checking for external parasites. More extensive testing might include imaging studies or a bone-marrow aspiration.

What Causes Anemia in Dogs?

Obviously, heavy blood loss, such as from trauma, will result in anemia, but anything that causes inadequate red blood cell production in the bone marrow will result in anemia. Common causes include:

Parasites: Heavy loads of parasites, both internal and external, can cause anemia in a puppy or any dog in poor nutritional status.

Autoimmune disease: Anemia may be related to autoimmune diseases. In these cases, your dog’s body attacks and destroys its own red blood cells.

Ulcers: Other causes include slow gastrointestinal bleeding associated with stomach or intestinal ulcers.

Urinary disease: Chronic blood loss through the urinary system can result in anemia.

Hemolytic anemia: This is a process where the red blood cells break down prematurely. Drug reactions and poisonous snake bites can cause hemolytic anemia.

Chronic illness: Any disease, like kidney or liver disease, can result in inadequate red blood cell production in your dog. Depending on the cause, some dogs may bleed from various orifices.

Cancer: Not surprisingly, some cancers interfere with red blood cell production, such as leukemia. Others may cause dangerous major blood loss such as bleed-outs of hemangiosarcoma masses in the liver or spleen.

How Do I Treat Anemia in My Dog?

True anemia is not something you can just treat at home. You will need veterinary assistance, prescribed medications, and possibly a blood transfusion for your dog. Veterinary treatment will aim at eliminating or controlling the cause of anemia.

If the cause is parasitic, proper use of dewormers and drugs to manage fleas, ticks, and lice are required to gain control. Anemia due to tick-borne disease will require appropriate antibiotics.

Corticosteroids and immune-modulating medications will be necessary if the cause is an autoimmune disease. In some cases, these medications may be temporary and tapered off, but some dogs will need to stay on them for life.

Erythropoietin is a substance made by the kidneys that helps to stimulate red blood cell production. Injections of erythropoietin may help to speed recovery.

A healthy, well-balanced diet is important in treating anemia. Most dogs do not have iron deficiency, but if your veterinarian feels it is warranted, iron may be prescribed.

Depending on the exact cause, anemia may be a treatable condition, or it may be a sign of a potentially fatal health condition, like cancer.

How To Soothe a Dog’s Irritated Anus

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
-
0
Soothing a dog's irritated anus can be done by first diagnosing the condition.
An irritated anus can be extremely uncomfortable for a dog. Keeping the area clean, applying warm compresses, and using pet-safe medications can help soothe irritation and itchiness while you determine the source of the issue. Credit: Vincent Scherer | Getty Images

Things you never thought you’d do an internet search for, right? But if your dog keeps licking his butt, he’s going to need a little help from you to get some relief. When a dog’s anus is red and irritated, the key is to soothe those delicate tissues without causing harm and then get to the bottom of the problem.

Quick Relief for a Dog’s Irritated Anus

When it comes to how to soothe your dog’s irritated anus quickly, you can provide some relief safely and easily at home using the following methods:

  1. Clean the affected area with a warm, damp cloth or pet-safe wipes.

Many of the causes of anal irritation are messy. If your dog has dried poop, scabs, or pus on his back end, removing this debris can make him feel a lot better. Be gentle when cleaning, as an irritated butt can be painful. It may help to soak caked-on debris to soften it before trying to remove it.

  1. Apply a warm compress.

Hold a warm, damp cloth over the irritated area for 5-10 minutes. This can help to soothe your dog’s anus. It is better to err on the cooler side with the compress, as applying a hot cloth could burn the sensitive skin and cause more damage. You can test the temperature on your wrist or lips—if it’s too hot for you, it’s too hot for the dog.

  1. Apply a pet-safe ointment.

If you have a pet-safe ointment on hand, you can apply a thin layer to the irritated area around the dog’s anus. I really like Veterinus Derma GeL for any small wound—it is easy to use, safe if the dog licks it, and provides both some antimicrobial effect and pain relief.

Why a Dog Might Keep Licking His Butt

For long-term relief, you will need to figure out why your dog’s anus is red and irritated. Some common reasons include:

Diarrhea

Diarrhea isn’t fun. It is uncomfortable and repeated episodes of diarrhea can irritate your dog’s anus. Loose poop getting stuck in the hair and on the skin around the anus only worsens the discomfort.

If your dog is having diarrhea, make sure his bum is clean each time he finishes pooping. A damp cloth can handle small messes but washing off with a hose outside or in the bathtub may be necessary for bigger catastrophes. Keeping his skin clean will help to prevent further irritation.

Diarrhea can be caused by many different things, ranging from eating something foolish to intestinal parasites or viral illnesses. If your dog overall seems happy and healthy, you can withhold all food for 12 hours and then feed a bland diet for a day or two. If the diarrhea lasts more than two days, it’s time to make a vet appointment. Diarrhea and vomiting at the same time is an emergency.

Anal Gland Issues

The anal glands are two sacs located just inside your dog’s anus. Normally they express a little stinky liquid each time your dog defecates. But sometimes they can become overfilled, impacted, or even infected. This is uncomfortable!

The classic sign of anal gland issues is a dog scooting his butt across the ground. Your dog may also lick or chew at his rear end in an effort to relieve the pressure. Scooting, licking, and chewing all irritate the skin around the anus, and can make the discomfort worse.

Minor anal gland impactions can be resolved with manual expression. You can learn to do this yourself at home or you can schedule an appointment for your vet or a vet tech to do it. Manually expressing the anal glands relieves the pressure from the overfilled gland, allowing your dog to get back to business as usual. The color, odor, and texture of the contents can also tell your vet if your dog might have an infection or other problem with the glands.

While waiting for a vet appointment, you can soothe your dog’s irritated anus by applying a warm compress for 5-10 minutes several times a day. This will provide some pain relief and may help to loosen the anal gland contents and make your dog more comfortable.

For many dogs, this is a one-time misfortune. However, some dogs are prone to chronic anal gland issues and may need regular manual expressions, increased fiber in their diet, or in rare cases a surgical procedure. If your dog is frequently scooting his butt or chewing at his back end, it’s time to call your vet.

Allergies

While humans with allergies sniffle and sneeze, dogs scratch and chew. The butt, ears, and paws are common areas where dogs with allergies get red, itchy skin.

If your dog has seasonal allergies, you will only notice his perianal area being irritated at specific times of year. For example, early fall is a common time for many dogs’ seasonal allergies to flare up. Other environmental allergies—such as allergies to dust, indoor allergens, or trees—can be a problem year-round. Food allergies are also consistent and do not let up with the changing of the seasons.

Your veterinarian will help you determine if your dog’s itchiness is due to allergies and parse out whether the cause is likely food, environmental allergens, or a combination of both. She will also diagnose and treat any secondary infections that may have taken advantage of your poor dog’s compromised skin.

Food allergies are treated with diet trials to determine which ingredient(s) give your dog trouble. It can take several months to see complete improvement, but stay the course—it will be worth it once you know what foods your dog tolerates best.

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) is an easy way to provide relief for some dogs experiencing an itchy butt from environmental allergies. A general guideline for dogs is one milligram of Benadryl per pound of body weight (meaning a 25-pound dog would get one 25mg tablet) but call your vet to get an exact dose for your dog. Loratidine (Claritin) and cetirizine (Zyrtec) are also helpful for some dogs.

Unfortunately, many dogs with environmental allergies require a more robust, dog-specific treatment plan to keep them itch and irritation free. This may include medicated shampoos, the monthly injectable medication Cytopoint, or the tablets Apoquel or Zenrelia. It can take some trial and error to determine the best treatment plan for your dog, but his itch-free butt will thank you for your persistence.

Fleas

Fleas can bite anywhere on a dog’s body but often focus on the hind end. Each bite is itchy, and dogs with flea allergy dermatitis will experience dramatic swelling, redness, and itchiness all along the back end of the body from even a single bite.

If your dog’s anus is irritated and itchy due to a flea infestation, the solution is to give your dog a bath with Dawn dish soap and then give a prescription-grade flea preventive medication for three consecutive months. Don’t forget to vacuum your house and wash bedding thoroughly to remove any flea eggs or larvae hiding there.

Perianal Fistula

Perianal fistulas are painful draining tracts that can occur around a dog’s anus. You will notice an extra hole or two that has a bloody or pus-like discharge. If you suspect your dog has perianal fistulas, it’s time to make a vet visit.

Perianal Tumor

Dogs can get cancer near the anus. Tumors in this area are more common in intact male dogs, and neutering can often resolve the issue if it is a benign tumor. Malignant tumors and ones in female or neutered male dogs will likely require surgical removal.

While waiting for a vet appointment, you can provide relief for your dog’s anus by applying a dog-safe ointment to the irritated area.

When To See a Vet About a Dog’s Irritated Anus

A dog who keeps licking his butt should see a vet if:

  • He is having diarrhea for more than two days, or has other signs of illness (diarrhea and vomiting is an emergency)
  • He scoots his butt frequently
  • He has sores or wounds around the anus
  • There is bleeding or draining pus coming from anywhere around the anus
  • Itchiness and irritation persists
  • He has a new lump in the area that seems to be bothering him
1...181920...336Page 19 of 336