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Houseguest Etiquette for Dogs

Those of us who love dogs tend to assume that everyone else in our circle of friends and family does, too. Sadly, that’s not always the case. In fact, even those who do share our passion for canine companions don’t always appreciate the over-enthusiastic attentions of a happy hound, especially when they are trying to enjoy the company of human friends in the comfort of a private home. Whether you are a visitor bringing your own beloved dog with you to someone else’s house, or a host greeting friends at your own front door with your canine family members milling about your feet, here are some tips to help you make sure your dog/human visits go well.

When You Are the Visitor

If you’re headed for a visit to friends or family and you plan to take your dog along, it’s important that you make sure ahead of time that she will be welcome – both now and in the future. Here’s how:

dog on the couch

Ask first!

It might be hard to imagine that any close friends or family members of mine would object to a with-dog visit, but it’s far better not to assume. There could be many valid reasons why your dog(s) might not be welcome, including (but not limited to):

• Lease provisions that prohibit the presence of pets

Allergies by one or more residents in the home

• A dog in the home who is not dog-friendly

• Dog fears or phobias by one or more residents (human or otherwise) in the home

• Past bad experiences with visiting dogs (yours or others)

If your host-to-be expresses a strong preference to not have your dog visit with you, respect that wish.

Bring a friendly dog.

If you want to take your dog visiting with you, she should be friendly and well socialized. There is no excuse for bringing along an aggressive dog, thereby risking the safety of others as well as that of your own dog. You would feel awful – and would be legally and morally responsible – if your dog bit or mauled someone during your visit. Plus, many dogs who are forced into situations they cannot handle bite defensively and often end up with a “dangerous dog” label and are ultimately euthanized.

Have a clean canine.

A dirty, smelly dog who sheds all over the house is not a great canine ambassador. Make sure your dog is well groomed prior to your visit and be prepared to wipe paws clean before entering the home. If it’s the time of the year when shedding normally happens, or if your dog is a year-round heavy shedder, warn your host in advance, and offer to do fur clean-up duty at the conclusion of your visit before you leave.

Have a pest-free canine.

Fleas and ticks are even worse than a little doggy dirt and hair. Fleas can hop off your dog and infest a house (and other warm-blooded residents) even long after you are gone. Ticks, carriers of several significant zoonotic (transmissible to humans) diseases including Lyme, ehrlichiosis, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, can also drop off your dog and climb onto others – and bite or attach to them.

With today’s very effective flea-control products, there are no excuses for having fleas on your dog. Ticks can hitch a ride on your dog despite tick-preventive products (the products are supposed to kill them within 24 hours before they can transmit disease, but don’t prevent them from climbing aboard), so either avoid tick territory for at least 24 hours prior to visiting others, or do a very thorough check for ticks before you arrive.

Train your dog.

At the very least, your dog should be the graduate of a basic force-free good manners class or equivalent training program, be appropriately friendly and social with other humans and friendly with dogs and any other species that might inhabit your host’s home. Polite greeting behavior is a must. More advanced training is even better!

No house soiling or counter surfing allowed, or chewing on non-chew objects. Even if your dog is allowed on furniture in your own home, when your dog is in someone else’s home, getting on the sofas and other furniture should be by invitation only.

Manage your dog.

If your dog is generally social but isn’t yet solid on all her good-manners behaviors, then management is a must. The umbilical cord method is called for here, with you keeping your dog leashed and at your side to prevent any possible social lapses. Crates and portable exercise pens are options for those moments when you want to take a break from your own dog. The leash also allows you to restrain your dog while you inquire whether others want to interact with her, and gives you real-life opportunities to practice her polite greeting behavior. (See “Your Dog’s Behavior: When to Manage, When to Train“.)

If there are children present in your host’s home, you must supervise interactions between your dog and the young humans 100 percent of the time. Even if you are totally confident your dog is good with children, you never know; a child may not know how to be appropriate with your dog and do something that would cause any dog to snap. You must not only supervise, but also be keenly aware of your dog’s body language and intervene if you see any signs that your dog is less than delighted about the attentions of a child. (See “Listening to Your Dog’s Body Language“.)

dog on a doormat

© Damedeeso | Dreamstime.com

Potty Before Entering

When humans drive to the home of another human for a visit, they usually want to get out of their cars and go to their friends’ front door as quickly as possible, in a rush to greet their friends – although, sometimes the rush is to ask to use the restroom, especially after a long drive. People often forget that their dogs might also have to use the restroom after a drive, and shortly after they enter their friends’ homes, they are upset and dismayed when their ordinarily housetrained dog pees on their friends’ carpet. Whoops!

If you are going to visit a friend’s house with your dog, before approaching your friends’ front door, walk your dog up and down the sidewalk or in the front yard until she goes potty. Or, if she doesn’t do what you suspect she might have to do, keep her on a leash in your friend’s home and take her outside several times; don’t allow her to be loose or unattended in your friend’s home until you are certain she won’t have an accident. You never know; if your friend has a dog whose own housetraining is not perfect, your dog may detect the scent (perhaps undetectable to your nose) of a past “accident” and conclude that pottying indoors is okay. She’s much less likely to do so if she’s already empty.

Be doubly alert if your dog tends to urine-mark (lift his leg). Under the minor stress of visiting a home where other dogs live, he just might feel compelled to mark indoors, or in an outdoor location (such as on the corner of a nice wicker outdoor sofa or on the back porch rail) where your friend won’t appreciate this.

If you are the resident and your dog is prone to submissive urination or urinating in excitement when people arrive, try to take her outside to go potty as close as possible to the arrival time of your visiting friend. It might also be a good idea to bring her outdoors to greet your friend and his dog, so you don’t have to interrupt your greeting to clean up urine in the house.

When You Are the Host

When you are a dog-owning host, you have a different but similar set of responsibilities to ensure that your guests are comfortable with their canine encounters in your home:

Consider your dog’s needs.

You may have a lovely dog who just doesn’t do well with visitors. It will be challenging to fulfill your role as a host if you are constantly worried about your own dog’s behavior. If she will happily and quietly hang out in a bedroom while your guests are present, put her away so you can enjoy the occasion without stress.

Note: Do not crate or otherwise confine your dog where she will be forced to accept attentions of your visitors. A fearful or unsocialized dog who is crated or tethered might feel trapped and is likely to become even more defensively aggressive if confined where visitors will pass closely by, look at or speak to her, or even worse, poke fingers into a crate or attempt to touch her.

Frozen stuffed Kongs or other long-lasting food toys, with your dog crated if necessary to prevent guarding, can help keep her happy and quiet. If your dog won’t deal well with being isolated in another room, consider asking a friend or family member to take her for the duration of your guests’ visit, or board your dog at a well-researched force-free boarding facility. Note: If you put your dog in another room due to possible aggressive behavior, I strongly recommending padlocking the door to prevent accidental entry into the dog room with potential tragic consequences.

Consider your visitors’ needs.

As lovely as your dog may be, you might, on occasion, have visitors who just don’t appreciate canine attention, hair, or saliva. Perhaps your guest has significant allergies, or is very fearful of dogs.

If you don’t already know how they feel, ask your guests ahead of time if they are comfortable with dogs, and respect their wishes. If they have strong negative feelings, even if your dog is quite friendly, make arrangements as above for your dog to be elsewhere during the visit – either enclosed in another room, at a friend’s house, or boarded.

If you’re not willing to accommodate your guests’ needs by restricting your dog’s access, then don’t invite those guests to your home. Perhaps you can meet them at a restaurant for dinner instead.

Exercise your dog well prior to the arrival of guests.

I like to say, “A tired dog is a happy human.” Be sure to leave time during your visitor preparations for a good exercise session with your dog an hour or so before your company arrives. She may still be excited when guests first walk in, but with much of her energy recently expended, she will settle down and relax much more quickly – and so can you.

Orchestrate controlled greetings.

Even those of us who love dogs don’t necessarily enjoy being bowled over by an enthusiastic canine greeter. If you have one of those, you have several options for orchestrating polite greetings at the front door:

• Confine your dog away from the door until your guest is greeted and settled. You can close your dog in another room, crate her, use baby gates to block her access to the front door, or tether her near the door so she can watch the action but not participate until released. If you use baby gates or tethers, you can invite your guest to help with training by giving him treats and asking him to approach your restrained dog and give her a treat when she sits.

• If your dog has learned a default sit for a treat, you can ask your guests to do a “treat and greet.” Keep a waterproof container of non-perishable treats outside your front door, and ask your guest to help himself to several before he enters the house. When he does, coach him to hold the treat near his chest (or whatever body language signals a sit to your dog) and then give your dog a treat when her bottom is securely resting on the floor. Alternatively, you can have him play “Find it!” with your dog by tossing small handfuls of tiny treats on the ground, thereby redirecting your dog’s attention – and her energy – away from himself and toward the floor.

• Here is an alternative for dogs who will default-sit for a toy: Keep a basket of toys outside your front door. Ask your guest to grab a couple of toys on the way in and wait for your dog to sit; as soon as she does, have your guest toss a toy a good distance away. Your dog may run after it and play with it or bring it back to your guest. If she brings it back, he can prompt a sit with the second toy, and then toss that one. The dog will likely drop the first as she runs after the second.

• You can also use high-tech options like the Treat & Train or Pet Tutor. These remote-controlled devices can be used creatively to invite your dog away from the door as your visitors enter.

Train your dog.

Of course, good socialization and training are always your best options. At the very least, your dog should be the graduate of a basic force-free good manners class or equivalent training program, be appropriately friendly and social with other humans (and any other species your guests may be bringing with them). Polite greeting behavior is a must. More advanced training is, of course, even better! A well-trained “go to your place” behavior can be invaluable for helping your guests feel comfortable with your dog’s presence.

dog behind gate

Manage your dog.

As described in the “Visitor” section, if your dog isn’t reliably trained and generally well-behaved, or if you just want a break from dog-supervision duties, then management is a must. Leashes, tethers, baby gates, crates, and closed rooms are all viable management options to help keep things under control when guests are in your home. And, even if your dog is allowed on furniture, be courteous and give your guests the option of not sharing the sofa with your dog if they’d prefer not to do so.

If your visitors are bringing children with them, you must supervise interactions between your dog and the young humans 100 percent of the time, even if you are totally confident your dog is good with children. You must not only supervise, but also be keenly aware of your dog’s body language and intervene if you see any signs that your dog is less than delighted about the attentions of a child. Err on the side of caution.

And finally, do not rely on your guests to do the supervising. They don’t know your dog and may not be skilled at reading and understanding her body language signals of stress or discomfort.

dog on a walk

Fair Warning

Don’t take your friend’s dog’s training for granted. Perhaps your dog has been trained to never run out of your front door without explicit permission, but a door left open just for a few moments (say, to fetch more groceries from the car) might be the beginning of a tragic lost-dog saga if your friend’s dog lacks this training skill. Your cat or parrot might be safe from your dog, but can lose their lives in a matter of moments if your friend’s dog is more predatory and your unsuspecting pets were in harm’s way.
Though it’s hard to anticipate every potential tragedy that can occur with dogs in new places, alert your friend to the most likely dangers to her dog or to your family members. Let her know if your yard is not securely fenced, for example, or where your chicken or rabbit pen is located.

Keep in mind that a portable exercise pen is a terrific management tool that can be deployed to prevent lots of disasters. If your friend’s dog is a door-darter, you can set up a pen in an “air-lock” arrangement, so she can’t escape if the door is left open by accident, or so someone who is not savvy about the door-darter’s techniques can’t accidentally let her escape. You can also use an exercise pen to create a larger safe zone for your bird’s cage or your elderly cat’s food bowls and litter box.

We, the Dog Lovers

It really is incumbent on those of us who love dogs to make sure that others have good experiences with our canine companions, whether they are guests in our homes, or we are guests in theirs. Regardless of the circumstances, and regardless of your dog’s training and socialization, wherever you are you must always be on the alert for signs that your dog is stressed and needs a break, or that others are uncomfortable with her presence and you need to give them a break. Without that, our dogs will continue to find themselves less welcome and less appreciated by the rest of the world.

In contrast, though, every good canine ambassador will help open doors for dogs in the world, rather than closing them.

Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She and her husband Paul live in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Miller is also the author of many books on positive training. Her newest is Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs.

Free-Ranging Dogs Give Us Insight on Canine Protein Preferences

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Anyone who lives with dogs is aware that dogs are almost universally attracted to meaty foods and treats. Trainers use these preferences to select different levels of “treat value” for dogs and almost invariably, the treats that are of highest value to a dog are those that have a meaty texture, smell, and (we assume) taste.

It is also true that most dogs are highly attracted to and readily consume high-protein diets that include cooked, extruded, or raw meat of various types.

Are these preferences a vestige of the dog’s predatory past? If so, are such preferences something that dogs are born with, or is there a strong influence of learning and environment on our dogs’ apparent taste for meat?

A recent set of experiments conducted by researchers who study free-ranging dogs in India asked these questions and provide us with some new information.

mumbai street dogs

Aditi Joshi

Street Dog Diet Studies

Free-ranging dogs exist in numerous countries around the world, including Mexico, Italy, Nepal, Japan, many African countries, and India. They survive almost entirely by scavenging and occasionally augment their diet by begging and hunting small animals.

In India, the history of free-ranging dogs is well-documented, extending back to the 9th century BC and representing more than 1,000 generations of dogs.

Indian free-ranging dogs consume a diet that is rich in carbohydrate (biscuits, bread, and rice) and relatively low in protein. The protein that is consumed is in the form of scraps of meat or fish adhering to bones, decomposing meat, and carcass remains.

Domestic dogs are better adapted to scavenging and a diet that is higher in carbohydrate foods than were their wolf-like ancestors because of changes in foraging behavior (increased scavenging/decreased pack hunting) and an enhanced ability to digest starch (increased copies of the gene AMY2B, the gene that codes for pancreatic amylase; for more about this, see “Dogs and Carbs: It’s Complicated“).

However, just because dogs can consume and digest diets that contain a high proportion of carbohydrate (starches), it does not necessarily follow that they prefer such diets or that it is the healthiest or best way to feed them.

Although the study of these free-ranging dogs could shed light on many interesting questions, the two that the Indian researchers attempted to answer were: “Do dogs have a strong preference for meat in their diet?”  and, “If so, is such a preference innate (are puppies are born with this preference) or is it reliant upon or strongly influenced by learning?” 

In the first study, the researchers offered 30 free-ranging dogs a variety of food choices in four separate experiments:

• In the first, dogs chose between bread, bread soaked in water, and bread soaked in chicken broth.

• The dogs selected between bread, bread soaked in gravy, and cooked chicken in the second experiment.

• The third offered the dogs choices between dry dog kibble or bread soaked in varying concentrations of chicken broth.

• The final experiment offered the dogs varying combinations of bread and dog food kibble, soaked with different concentrations of chicken broth.

The purpose of this final set of choices was to separate the factors of meat smell from nutrient (protein) content, because dogs have been previously shown to be capable of self-selecting a diet according to its macronutrient (protein/fat/carbohydrate) content.

mumbai street dogs

Mumbai

Street Dog Study Results

The following preferences were found in the adult, free-ranging dogs:

Meat (smell) beats carbs. The dogs consistently chose bread soaked in chicken broth over dry bread or bread soaked in water, even though chicken broth contains only a small amount of actual protein. When allowed to choose only visually, they selected chicken meat over chicken-soaked bread or dry bread.

Smell beats all. When the dogs were offered kibble (high protein food) or bread (low protein food) soaked with varying concentrations of chicken broth, they consumed all of the foods equally, showing no absolute preference in terms of the quantity that was consumed.

However, the order of selection depended completely upon how much chicken broth was soaking the food, regardless of its nutrient content. In other words, the dogs chose according to smell, not in accordance with the actual amount of meat protein present in the food.

Rule of thumb: Choose the food that smells the most intensely of meat first. The cumulative results of the four experiments support the existence of the above rule of thumb for food choice. This means that the dogs preferred foods that smelled of meat (but that were not necessarily good sources of protein) over those that smelled less meaty, even when the less meaty-smelling foods actually contained more meat ingredients and a higher protein content.

This of course, makes sense, since in nature, a stronger meat smell is highly correlated with high meat and protein content and invariably predicts higher meat quantity. This relationship only becomes skewed when clever experimenters enter the picture and mess with it.

The authors concluded that while domestic dogs have adapted a scavenging lifestyle, they appear to have done so without giving up a strong preference for meat. They suggest that while the domestic dog has indeed evolved to more efficiently digest carbohydrate and exist on a carbohydrate-rich scavenged diet, they continue to be strongly attracted to the smell of meat and preferentially select meaty-smelling foods. (Not surprising at all to most dog owners; but again, good to have science backing up experiences and beliefs).

But wait, they’re not finished. The same researchers then asked, “Are domestic dogs born with a preference for meat, or is it a learned trait?”

The researchers conducted the same series of the experiments described above with the puppies of free-ranging dogs. The puppies were 8 to 10 weeks of age at the time of testing. Using a clever design, they found that:

Puppies do not discriminate. Unlike the adult dogs, puppies near weaning age showed no clear preference for foods that smelled strongly of meat and chose each food selection equally, regardless of how intensely the food smelled of meat.

Dogs use a sniff and snatch strategy. While the adult dogs tended to first smell and inspect all available food choices before choosing and consuming one, puppies did not show this behavior. Rather, they would smell a food, eat it, and then move to the next food, showing little to no preference. The vast majority (89 percent) of choices made by puppies followed this behavior pattern.

The authors speculate that because puppies consume a protein-rich diet in the form of their mother’s milk, there is little selective pressure for an innate selection bias toward the smell of meat.

It is only after weaning, when pups begin to scavenge, that preferentially selecting foods that smell like meat (and are correlated with a high protein content) becomes important. They suggest that, as has been shown in a number of other species, puppies learn their food selection preferences from the mother (i.e., cultural transmission of knowledge) and then as they mature and begin to scavenge, operantly.

Take-Away for People with Pet Dogs

The first study’s results with adult, free-ranging dogs tell us that the dogs in this set of experiments were selecting foods based primarily on smell rather than an ability to discern actual meat content. The adult dogs were operating under the (pretty efficient) rule of “If it smells like meat, eat it.” (We all know and love dogs who do this!)

This strategy is probably strongly selected for in environments where resources are limited, there are few energy- and protein-dense foods available, and competition between dogs is high. This is not really a surprising result – except for the fact that the authors found that the scent of meat was more important than the food’s actual meat (or protein) content.

Newly weaned puppies, in contrast, lack this choice bias and appear to learn to choose “meaty” foods after weaning, either from the food choices of their mother, operantly, or most likely, a combination of the two.

mumbai street dogs

India

So, what does this tell us about feeding our own dogs? These results suggest that while dogs are predisposed to enjoy the taste of meat ingredients and clearly prefer these foods, puppies do not appear to be born with an attraction to the smell of meat per se; these preferences are influenced by learning early in life.

On a practical level, these data, along with those of earlier studies of taste preferences in dogs, tell us that the foods that are offered to a puppy at a young age should be expected to strongly influence the pup’s food and taste preferences as an adult dog.

An Advocate for “Streeties” in Mumbai 

The photos we used to accompany this article were taken by Aditi Joshi, a street-dog advocate who lives in Mumbai, India, a city that is home to an estimated 250,000 street dogs. Several government agencies and NGOs are involved in vaccination and sterilization programs, as well as treating severely injured and ill street dogs, but they do not address everyday caregiving. There are adoption programs aimed at finding homes for these dogs, but the vast majority of dogs in the city continue to live as street dogs.

By last count, Aditi’s neighborhood is home to 76 “streeties,” as the dogs are affectionately called. Over the years, Aditi has worked to build a culture of stewardship that views the streeties as companions for which the community shares responsibility, thus helping to bridge the gap in the care they receive. She has built a loose network of people in her neighborhood – residents, shop owners, street vendors, domestic workers, garbage collectors, delivery personnel, dog walkers, and doctors – who assist in caring for these resident dogs in varying capacities. Through this network, she coordinates preventative health care (vaccinations and sterilization), provision of shelter and food, grooming, and emergency care in the case of injury or illness, both on site and in her home.

“When cared for, these healthy, settled dogs are the best buffer for minimizing human-animal conflicts and maintaining public health,” Aditi says. “This is also integral to keeping pet dogs in the community healthy, disease-free, and safe.”

Aditi’s biggest challenge is building positive human-animal relationships in a context where many people still fear and misunderstand street animals. Her current goal is to create a sustainable and scalable program to teach people about safely interacting with dogs, and to teach street dogs skills that would smooth their integration into human environments.

To help achieve that goal, Aditi is currently enrolled in the prestigious Academy for Dog Trainers (founded and led by Jean Donaldson) and is working on the development of curriculum for her street-dog education program. If you’d like to see a video about how Aditi trains street dogs, or to help support Aditi’s work for street dogs in Mumbai, see her GoFundMe page.

Cited Studies

1. Bhadra A, Bhattacharjee D, Paul M and Ghadra A. “The meat of the matter: A thumb rule for scavenging dogs.” Ethology, Ecology and Evolution 2016; 28:427-440.
2. Bhadra A and Bhadra A. “Preference for meat is not innate in dogs.” Journal of Ethology 2014; 32:15-22.
3. Hewson-Hughes AK, Hewson-Hughes VL, Colyer A, Miller AT, McGrane SJ, et al. “Geometric analysis of macronutrient selection in breeds of the domestic dog, Canis lupus familiaris.” Behavioral Ecology 2012; 24:293-304.
4. Roberts MT, Bermingham EN, Cave NJ, Young W, McKenzie CM and Thomas DG. “Macronutrient intake of dogs, self-selecting diets varying in composition offered ad libitum.” Journal of Animal Physiology and Nutrition; 102:568-575.

Linda P. Case is the owner of AutumnGold Consulting & Dog Training Center in Mahomet, Illinois. Linda is the author of Dog Food Logic, has a new book, Dog Smart, and writes The Science Dog blog.

The Trail Runner System: Whole Dog Journal’s Review

First, a confession: I do not walk my dogs on leash very often. I’m fortunate to live in a rural area with lots of open space and trails and not very many people. I rarely see another person when I’m out with my dogs.

But when I foster dogs who do not yet have reliable recalls, or I travel down to the San Francisco Bay to visit friends and we take our dogs for hikes in that area’s popular parks and on crowded trails, having a hands-free leash is a gift. Such a product allows you to walk or run with a natural arm and shoulder motion – something that is perhaps most appreciated by older athletes who exercise through the aches of age and former injuries – while maintaining control of your dog. You can even drink from the water bottle, take photos with your cell phone, or pick up dog poop without losing control of your dog or getting tangled in the leash.

Until recently, however, I hadn’t seen a hands-free leash-attachment product that was well-made, comfortable, convenient, and secure. But now there’s one I can recommend!

Ruffwear’s Trail Runner System

The Trail Runner System is comprised of a wide, lightly padded, adjustable belt that is fastened (with a wide plastic side-release buckle) in the front. (The belt fits waist sizes from 25 to 45 inches.) To secure the leash to the belt, you thread a separate strap through the hand loop in the end of a leash, and fasten it with a plastic cam buckle. The cam buckle is a safety feature; this type of fastener is secure, but in case of emergency, it releases instantaneously if the end of the strap is pulled backward across the buckle.

All the competing products I’ve seen employ a D-ring sewn onto the belt to connect your leash to the belt; you either use a snap or loop the leash through the D-ring. On some products, it’s clear that it wouldn’t take much pulling to rip the D-ring off the belt and release the dog. In contrast, both ends of the leash-attachment strap are well-sewn onto the belt of the Trail Runner.

ruffwear trail runner system

Ruffwear

The advantage of this strap versus a fixed D-ring is that the leash can slide from side to side across the front of the wearer’s body, helping prevent tangles and enabling the dog to be positioned on whichever side of the wearer that is preferred.

Though any leash can be used, Ruffwear’s Ridgeline Leash is included. This leash uses Ruffwear’s “Wavelength stretch webbing,” which is not made of fabric-covered rubber bands as in some stretchy leashes, but made of a unique woven elastic webbing. When relaxed, the leash is conveniently short (2.5 feet), but can be stretched to 4.25 feet to provide shock-absorption if your dog suddenly pulls ahead or one of you trips. (The Ridgeline Leash is also sold separately in a 3.3- to 5.9-foot length.)

Other Features

The Trail Runner has a few other features that add to its utility, but not so many as to make the product unwieldy. There is a zipped pocket that can hold even a long cellphone, with an opening for an ear-bud cord; inside the pocket is a sewn-in clip for a key-ring. A small stretch-mesh pocket holds a roll of poop bags.

Also included is a 21-ounce water bottle with a push/pull lid, which nestles securely in an angled holster on the back of the belt. The position and design keeps the bottle from bouncing on the wearer’s body, which can bruise and cause fatigue. These features actually make the Trail Runner useful on walks even if you don’t fasten your dog’s leash to it!

Are you looking for a great harness to attach the Trail Runner to? We reviewed the best.

Raised Right

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About half of the litter of nine puppies that I have been fostering for my local shelter got altered and adopted this week; the other half are scheduled for surgery next week. I’m sure they are going to get adopted within a day or two; they are adorable, friendly, confident little things – right up there in the top three of the most charming litters of puppies I’ve fostered.

whole dog journal editor nancy kerns

Well, that begs the question: How many litters has that been? I’ve lost track. I’ll have to go through my cloud storage and look at the past few years’ worth of photos. I lose
countless hours trying to get good photos and video of all the pups.

Some of the most entertaining video footage I get every time I foster results from taping my one and only “foster failure,” Woody, as he plays with the foster puppies. Most of you must know the expression; it means I was supposed to only foster him and his eight siblings, but I “failed” by keeping one (him). When I count how many puppies I have fostered, I will have to run a separate tally for how many he has helped me with.

I posted a video of Woody playing with this batch of puppies on WDJ’s Facebook
and Instagram, and bragged what a good puppy-raiser he is – the best! One of my best
friends commented, “But what about Maebe?”

Ah, yes. Woody is the puppy-raising expert he is thanks to Maebe, the young adult Black and Tan Coonhound who helped raise him. About two and a half years ago, I was fostering Maebe for my local shelter when they called to ask if I could also take in a litter of nine three-week-old, pit-mix puppies. Maebe had been living with me for a month or two at the time; she was an extremely active, curious dog with a little bit of separation anxiety that was making it difficult to find her a home. She enjoyed helping entertain the puppies as they grew, offering them toys and then snatching them away, trying to bait the pack of puppies into chasing her.

I ended up falling hard for one of those pups – Woody – so Maebe got to raise him for a couple more months. She was brilliant with him: endlessly playful, kind, and generous.
They ate from the same bowls, chewed on the same bones, and slept draped all over each other. The whole time, I was training and promoting her. At last she found a home after the American Black and Tan Coonhound Rescue group posted a courtesy listing for me. Maebe was flown to southern California by a volunteer pilot from Pilots N Paws and picked up there by her new owner, who lives in Arizona.

Maebe’s owner and I have become fast friends through social media. I love seeing photos of them in Arizona – and was happy that Maebe’s owner got to see Maebe getting credit for Woody’s puppy-raising prowess! Best, she got a great dog, I got a great dog, and Woody gets to keep raising good dogs, too.

Download the Full August 2018 Issue PDF

  • Urinary Tract Infections
  • Good Petiquette
  • The Meat Of the Matter
  • Trail Runner System
  • I Can't Eat Another Bite!
  • Food In The Fridge
  • Cloudy With A Chance Of Blindness
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The Dogs We Love: Too Little Time Together

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Social media has been an incredible tool for us dog owners. We can share photos, videos, and stories about our beloved companions, and our friends and relatives and even casual acquaintances can get to know our dogs – laughing at their cute or funny antics, commiserating with us over canine behavior we find problematic, or just smiling in recognition of those tiny moments that “dog people” savor: from the quizzical puppy head tilts to the senior dogs sleeping deeply, peacefully entwined with one another.

dog on lawn chair
Mike and Linda Cases, dog, Chip

But sometimes, our involvement with each other’s dogs means we also feel each other’s pain at the loss of a special canine friend. And if you’ve ever lost a “heart dog” of your own – and who among us haven’t? – the story of a friend’s dog’s death can hit you hard, bringing up echoes of your own canine loss or losses. You know exactly how your friends feel – bereft, hollow, aching – and all you can do is try to say something to let them know you are sorry for their pain.

collie holding a bone
Sarah Richardson’s Aussie, Rhodie

It’s been said before, but every time I have experienced the loss of one of my dogs, or have witnessed someone else’s, I think to myself: That this is the price of all that love we have for our dogs, and all the love and joy we’ve received from our dogs. If it seems too much to bear, well, remember that the amount of pain we are going to feel is directly related to the love. Those “heart dogs” – the companions we love as much as life itself? Well, their loss is going to hurt the most, the deepest, and the longest. Keep it in mind as you hurt; this is the price of all the happiness we had together.

dog looking at camera
Paul and Pat Miller’s dog, Bonnie

It’s easy to forget as we are enjoying our canine partners, playing, working, swimming, training, sleeping, and eating together. But, given our lifespans and their all-too-short ones, in the back of our minds we know that the price will have to be paid in our lifetimes. It’s a steep price – but also worth the pain.

To all my friends who have lost their beloveds, recently, and in the past year:

Lisa and Brad Waggoner, who just recently lost young Willow

walking a dog
Brad and Lisa Waggoner’s Aussie, Willow

Sarah Richardson, on the loss of Rhodie

Pat and Paul Miller, on the loss of their Bonnie

Linda and Mike Case, who lost their senior dog Chip

Nancy Tucker and her husband Tom, on the loss of Chili

chili the dog
Tom and Nancy Tucker’s dog, Chili

 

Dealing with Dogs on the 4th of July

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One of my girlfriends called me on Monday, asking if she could come up with her dog and visit for a few days, to escape the barrage of fireworks in her Bay area town. She has a sort of high-strung German Wire-Haired Pointer (is that redundant?) and the seven-year-old dog was already a mess, shaking and panting, from the fireworks he had been hearing.

I said sure, because I would love to see her, but warned her that it might not be much better here in my rural northern state town. But I didn’t emphasize this too hard, because I thought a visit with her would be lovely. Also, in my office/house where she would be staying, there is an enormous old whole-house fan that is so loud, it would surely drown out the racket outside while cooling things off.

She arrived Tuesday, and we had fun hanging out. There were some intermittent fireworks cracking in town on Tuesday evening, and both Luke (her dog) and my senior dog Otto handled it about the same; if they heard the POP or BANG of some firework somewhere, they would turn their heads sharply, stop breathing for a moment, and then pant and shake for a minute or two. We were able to keep distracting them and, with the house fan and the TV volume on high, got through the night.

Neither Woody nor my tenant’s dog (whom I’m caring for during the week, since her owner will be away weekdays at his summer job at a summer camp) nor the last of the puppies (six) that I’ve been fostering, even seemed to notice. So the household count was eight calm dogs and two nervous ones. I thought we might make it through the Fourth unscathed.

nail aversion on dog toe

On Wednesday morning I left Otto and Woody at my house, and drove to my office/house where my friend was sleeping in with her dog (she likes staying there, rather than my house, as she sometimes has trouble sleeping, and when she stays in the house with no one else in it, she is more comfortable getting up and watching TV or something if she can’t sleep). I fed my tenant’s dog and the puppies, and let them run around the yard to play, before returning to my house to start preparing to have some family come over for lunch (my sister-in-law and niece, who live an hour away, and my sister-in-law’s mom, who is visiting from France.) When I got home, I started busying myself with neatening things up and finding extra chairs, etc. I noticed that Woody was snoozing on the big bed in the living room. I thought, “Wow, he’s really growing up! All that activity yesterday must have worn him out, and he’s napping!”

Wrong!

When my sister and her husband arrived, in advance of my other guests, Woody jumped up to greet them; he loves them! But when he was greeting them with excitement, it was then obvious that he was frisking about on three legs; he wouldn’t set one hind leg on the ground! My sister said, “Oh my goodness! What’s wrong with Woody?!” and I, idiotically, was like, “I have no idea!”

Fortunately, it wasn’t anything too serious… but I felt it necessitated at trip to the ER anyway (after lunch, after my guests left). Somehow (no clue how), in the hour I had been gone, Woody had ripped one of his toenails nearly all the way off (nail avulsion). The nail itself was cocked at a horrible upward angle, with the bloody, sensitive core of the nail exposed and obviously causing poor Woody tremendous pain every time he let that paw touch the ground.

I have had dogs do this before, but almost always when their nails were too long and it was always in a front paw. I don’t have any idea of how he did this in a rear paw, middle toe. He sure is special!

Once again, I’m fortunate to have good pet insurance – with a dog like Woody, I can’t imagine not having it – and a good 24-hour veterinary clinic about a half-hour away.  I left Otto home with my husband, and my friend and I got into the car with Woody and her GWP, and drove to the clinic. She generously was going to keep me company while we waited for treatment, and we hadn’t wanted to leave her dog home alone with the fireworks still being set off in town intermittently.

It was about 4 p.m. when we got there – and we were greeted by an unusual sight: an employee of the clinic, putting up a sign in the middle of the driveway entrance to the clinic. The sign read, “No parking except for veterinary clients.” It took me just a second to remember that the clinic’s back border is the city fairgrounds – where that town’s annual fireworks show is held. I started laughing. “Well, if we don’t get out of here by the time the fireworks start, at least they can sedate Luke for us!”

As with any veterinary ER on a holiday, the clinic was busy. We waited about two hours to see a vet, but fortunately she made short work of Woody’s nail. She administered a local anesthetic,  clipped away (or pulled off, I didn’t see) the hanging nail, thoroughly cleaned the whole area, and bandaged it all up. We were sent home with antibiotics and some pain relief (the ubiquitous carprofen) and on the way home by 7.

Back in my smaller town, it was sounding like the Civil War. As I hurried around, feeding and cleaning up after the foster pups, my friend’s dog started going into his full-blown panic state. My friend was prepared with a veterinarian-prescribed dose of alprazolam (Xanax), and she gave him his first dose then. (The blood levels of the drug take about two hours to peak, and start to wear off in about four hours, so he needed one more dose to get through the night.) Woody was resting on the couch, obviously having experienced some relief from the procedure at the vet, and oblivious to the fireworks sounds, still audible behind the sound of the house fan and the TV.

sleeping dogs

By about 8 p.m., I was ready to go home and see how my own fireworks-phobic dog was making out, but as I prepared to leave, my friend’s dog kept pasting himself to my side.  It was odd, because he usually doesn’t particularly seek me out for affection; he’s sort of intimidated by me, usually. But my friend was starting to get anxious about his anxiety, and I think that was making him more anxious! “Alright, you two,” I said. “Let’s all go home and stay at my house tonight.”

The rest of the evening, fortunately, was uneventful. A little wine for my friend and me, a little more Xanax for Luke, rest on the couch for Woody, a little pacing and comfort for Otto, and we finally all got to sleep. Thank goodness for modern medicine, and for pet insurance.

How did you all make out?

DNA Tests for Dogs: Fun, Interesting, but Probably Not Worth the Money

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In the July issue of Whole Dog Journal, we have an article (“Dog DNA Tests: Mixed Results“) about the mixed-breed dog DNA tests that are available to dog owners for a fairly hefty price.

I have ordered a few of these tests over the years, gathering information about how they work and whether they appear to be all that helpful in identifying the breeds that have gone into a given mixed-breed dog.

In the above-referenced article, I shared the results from the tests I have ordered for my 10-year-old mixed-breed dog, Otto, over the years. All I can say about the results from the two most respected companies is that they mostly jibe with each other – and that both companies explain that dogs may not look anything like the breeds whose genes they contain!

whole dog journal woody

We didn’t have room in the article to share the results of the tests I’ve had done on Woody, my younger dog. One can see that Woody clearly has some sort of bully breed or breeds in his lineage. In my experience, none of the companies are all that good about sussing out one bully breed from another. I can’t say I blame them; neither am I. 

Here are Woody’s results from the two most reputable companies that provide these tests:

Wisdom Panel results (2016)

50.0% American Staffordshire Terrier

50.0% Labrador Retriever

whole dog journal woody

This is interesting: Both Wisdom Panel and Embark say they will occasionally update your results, so you should log in to their site from time to time. When we most recently checked Woody’s Wisdom Panel profile, we saw his results had been changed. Now Wisdom Panel says he is:

62.5% American Staffordshire Terrier

25.0% Labrador Retriever

12.5% (mixed)

Woody! Where has all your Labrador gone?

Embark results (2018)

40.8% American Pit Bull Terrier

30.3% Labrador Retriever

19.9% American Staffordshire Terrier

9.0% Olde English Bulldogge

Are there any bully breed experts who care to explain the possible differences between these results, as well as the mix of breeds reported by Embark?

The funniest results came from a much smaller company – one that returned some very silly results on Otto, too.

whole dog journal woody

DNA My Dog results (2016)

Staffordshire Bull Terrier (Level 2, i.e., between 37%-74%)

America Staffordshire Terrier (Level 3, i.e., between 20%-36%)

Pembroke Welsh Corgi (Level 4, i.e., between 10%-20%)

Pug (Level 4)

Given both his looks and the fact that Woody stands 24 inches at the withers and weighs 70 pounds soaking wet…I am not sure I can find any room in my heart to buy the idea that he has ANY Corgi or Pug genes.

Want my honest take on these tests? The results from the larger, more reputable companies are fun and interesting, but tend to either confirm that a dog is mostly what he looks like he is, or bring up a breed that one hadn’t considered before because the dog doesn’t look anything like that (like Otto containing either 12.5% % American Staffordshire Terrier [according to Wisdom  Panel] or 21.3% American Pit Bull Terrier  [according to Embark]- REALLY?).  I can’t honestly say the answers are all that satisfying, either way.

whole dog journal otto

5 Reasons to Feed Raw Honey to Your Dog

honey for dogs to increase energy
© Ksuksa | Dreamstime.com

1. Local Raw Honey Relieves Dogs’ Skin Allergies

Medical research supports the use of local honey for dogs to combat their environmental allergies. Note that we said local honey. A local product contains tiny amounts of the pollen in your area, so that when your dog ingests the honey, his body can adjust to the potential allergens gradually, which should help prevent a full-blown attack. Hint: Be sure you’re dealing with an environmental allergic reaction. Itching, scratching, and hot spots can also indicate a food allergy. See “Suspect Your Itchy Dog Has a Food Allergy?” for more info.

honey for puppy skin allergies
© Willeecole | Dreamstime.com

2. Raw Honey Helps Dogs with Kennel Cough

Honey is a time-honored solution for soothing irritated throats and coughs. For kennel cough, you can use local honey, but Manuka honey for dogs with kennel cough may be your best choice. Made by bees pollinating the Manuka trees in New Zealand and parts of Australia, Manuka honey has the highest antibacterial properties of any honey in the world. It’s also the highest-priced honey in the world, and may cost three or four times what you might pay for local honey.

honey for dog coughs
© Ankevanwyk | Dreamstime.com

3. Raw Honey Heals Minor Topical Wounds

Manuka honey is also a top choice for a natural wound dressing. In fact, Manuka honey is FDA-approved for use on human burn patients. But any raw honey will help keep the wound area clean and moist, which promotes healing. Honey’s natural antibacterial properties reduce the chance of infection and protect the injured area. After cleaning the wound, spread on a thick coat of honey and then apply a light bandage, if necessary. Of course, you may have to also use an Elizabethan collar or similar device to stop your dog from licking the area! Note: Deep, wide or puncture wounds should always be examined by a veterinarian before applying any medicine. See “How to Treat Dog Wounds” for more on this.

dog with wound
© Innaastakhova | Dreamstime.com

4. Raw Honey Reduces Gastrointestinal Upset in Dogs

Honey can be jelpful for a dog’s upset stomach or diarrhea that might come from something simple, such as your dog feasting on fresh grass, a couple of doses of honey may help quiet and soothe his GI tract. Some veterinarians suggest honey for dogs to help control minor stomach ulcers, since honey’s natural antibacterial properties can help destroy bacteria that may be causing the ulcer. Again, you need to be certain about what you’re dealing with, so seeking veterinary advice in these situations is wise.

dog eating honey

5. Honey Can Give Dogs More Energy

Honey is a sugar, and sugar boosts energy. Anecdotal evidence shows that honey helps many older dogs regain some of their former spunk and drive. Many owners of canine athletes use honey to promote energy, endurance and vitality.

The 10th Adoptaversary of My Dog, Otto

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Otto on the day I adopted him, approximately 7 months old.

Above my desk, I have a five-foot by four-foot poster*, mounted on hard foam-core, featuring a fantastic photo of my dog Otto along with his name and his adoption date on the poster: June 16, 2008.

And yet, when I received a card in the mail earlier this week from a work colleague, someone who works on WDJ’s website and marketing team from our publisher’s headquarters in Norwalk, Connecticut, wishing Otto a happy 10th “Adoptaversary,” I was flummoxed for a minute. Oh my goodness! Did I actually miss the opportunity to celebrate the TENTH anniversary of the date I adopted my beloved Otto?? And how did my colleague remember when I did not? (I asked! The answer was, in a blog post about vaccinations some weeks ago, I mentioned Otto’s date of adoption, as it related to how long it has been since he has been vaccinated . . . and she actually took note of that date! And found a card that specifically mentioned the 10th “Adoptaversary” of a dog!! And sent it to me on time!)

otto from whole dog journal

The fact is, while I have definitely been counting the years that I have shared with Otto, I don’t think I have ever celebrated his “gotcha” date (as other dog owners I know call it). And that’s a shame, since I don’t celebrate his birthday (estimated to be sometime in November), either. And I treasure our time together; I really should be celebrating this date every year – and I’m putting it on my Google calendar so I won’t miss it next year. My sincere thanks to my colleague for the card and the nudge! What’s WRONG with me??

Do you celebrate the date that you adopted your dog? Or his or her birthday, if you know it?

* I got the poster from a chain of California-based pet supply stores, Pet Food Express. They have something called their “My Mutt Program,” whereby a person can send them proof that they have made a donation of $250 or more to a shelter or nonprofit animal rescue group, and Pet Food Express will send a professional photographer to take a photo of their pet, have a huge poster made, and hang it in the Pet Food Express store of their choice for about six months… And after the poster hangs in the store for a while, it will be taken down and the pet owner gets the poster to keep. Check out the link. It’s an absolutely great program that encourages more donations to needy shelters and rescues, and provides owners with stunning art of their pets. And it makes a great gift! You can make a donation to your local shelter in a friend’s name and let THEM receive the photography session and poster.

Dogs and Carbs: It’s Complicated

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The question of how best to feed dogs stimulates great debate and evokes strong emotions among dog folks. (Yes, this an intended understatement.) One of the most contentiously defended viewpoints in recent years is that dogs should not be fed diets that contain digestible carbohydrate (starch).

Two primary arguments are used to defend this position. These are:

A) Dogs are carnivores and have no dietary requirement for carbohydrate.

B) Dogs are unable to efficiently digest starch. Therefore, including starch-providing ingredients in dog foods is unhealthy and provides no nutritional value.

Like many persistent beliefs, there is some truth and some falsehood in both of these blanket claims. Let’s start with the first.

PROPOSED: Dogs are carnivores and have no dietary requirement for carbohydrates.

The first bit is false; the second bit is true. Dogs are classified within the taxonomic order of Carnivora, but like many other species within this order, dogs are omnivorous.

are dogs omnivores

© Tommy Maenhout | Dreamstime.com

The term omnivore simply means that an animal consumes foods that are of animal and plant origin (dogs do this) and can derive essential nutrients from both animal and plant foods (ditto). Based upon this definition, animal nutritionists consider the dog to be an omnivore. By contrast, the domestic cat, along with other felid species, is classified as an obligate carnivore. This classification means that cats cannot derive all of their essential nutrient needs from plant foods and therefore have an obligate need for foods of animal origin in their diet.

The fact that dogs are omnivorous does not signify that they are not predatory (they are), nor that they do not seek out and enjoy eating meat (they do). All that it means is that dogs can consume and derive nutrients from both animal and plant matter.

If we consider the dog’s feeding behavior, it is clear that the majority of dogs enjoy and probably prefer to consume meat in their diet. However, they also scavenge and ingest a wide variety of food types, including starch-containing foods. Nutritionally, just like bears, who also preferably seek out animal source proteins, dogs are omnivores.

Personally, I am baffled as to why “omnivore” has become a fighting word among dog people. This label does not turn the dog into a carrot-munching, Birkenstock-wearing, canine hippie. Rather, it simply describes what the dog eats and is capable of deriving nutrients from: meat and plant matter. That’s all. Time for us all to calm down about this one.

Let’s move on.

So what about carbs? It’s true that dogs have no dietary requirement for carbohydrates; they can derive all the nutrients they need from protein and fat.

That said, cooked starch can provide a highly digestible energy source to dogs when included in their diet. From a nutrition standpoint, dietary carbohydrate spares protein. This means that when a body uses carbohydrate to provide needed energy, dietary protein is conserved from being used for this purpose and continues to be available for use to provide essential amino acids, build and repair body tissues, and support a healthy immune system. Therefore, including at least some digestible carbohydrate in the diet of dogs is generally considered to be beneficial.

The controversy about starch in dog foods revolves more around how much starch is in the food and the source of that starch, rather than its absolute presence or absence. Dogs can thrive on low-carbohydrate diets provided such diets are balanced and contain all of the essential nutrients. Diets formulated in this way are often highly palatable because of their high proportions of protein and fat. These foods are also generally very energy dense (lots of calories packed into a small volume of food), which means that portion control is important to ensure that dogs maintain a healthy weight.

Now for the second persistent statement that is often made about the dog’s nutritional requirements:

PROPOSED: Dogs cannot digest starch.

It should be obvious from the vast majority of dogs who survive on carb-heavy kibbled diets that this is unequivocally false. Dogs efficiently digest cooked starch, just like humans. However, they cannot digest raw starch (and neither can we).

Cooking results in the expansion of the small granules that make up starch, which allows digestive enzymes better access and increases digestibility. This is true for humans as well as for dogs, and this fact explains why we generally do not munch on raw potatoes.

We actually know the exact degree to which cooking increases digestibility of various starches. Ground grains such as rice, oats, or corn are about 60 percent digestible when fed raw to dogs. Cooking these ingredients increases the dog’s ability to digest them to almost 100 percent! This means that if you feed your dog 100 grams of uncooked oats or rice, only 60 grams will make it into his body to nourish him; 40 grams ends up in the large intestine where microbes ferment some of it, and a lot of that 40 grams ends up in your yard, as feces.

Conversely, when cooked, almost the entire 100 grams are digested and absorbed to nourish your dog. Again, not to put too fine a point on this, but the same holds true for humans.

The AMY2B Enzyme

Like humans, dogs have an enhanced ability to digest starch-containing ingredients, a change that has been directly tied to domestication. In 2013, a ground-breaking paper by Erik Axelsson of Uppsala University in Sweden identified a host of genetic changes that occurred as dogs evolved from their wolf ancestors.1 Three of these changes were alterations of key genes that code for enzymes involved in starch digestion, most notably and consistently, one labeled AMY2B.

This gene codes for the production of pancreatic amylase, an enzyme that functions to digest dietary starch. Although variation exists among individual dogs and breeds of differing geographic origin, the increased copies of the AMY2B gene correlate with higher levels of circulating pancreatic amylase in a dog’s blood, which means that higher AMY2B leads to more efficient starch digestion.2, 3, 4

On average, dogs have a sevenfold higher copy number of this gene when compared with present-day wolves. These changes in the dog’s genetic makeup coincide with the expansion of human agricultural practices and increased reliance upon starch-providing plants in both human and dog diets.

Dog Food Diet Selection

It is a fact that domestic dogs are better adapted to scavenging and to a diet that is higher in starch-containing foods than were their wolf-like ancestors. However, just because dogs can consume and digest starch, it does not necessarily follow that a diet that contains a high proportion of digestible carbohydrate is the healthiest way to feed them. One way of determining how much protein, fat, and carbohydrate dogs should have is to ask the dogs directly.

are dogs omnivores

© Yevheniia Sednieva | Dreamstime.com

Historically, nutritionists have viewed diet selection in animals principally from the standpoint of energy balance. The basic assumption was that all animals, including dogs, eat to meet their energy (caloric) needs first. However, in recent years this premise has been challenged.

There is evidence that a wide range of species, including many birds, fish, and mammals, will self-select diets containing consistent proportions of the three major macronutrients -protein, fat, and carbohydrate – and that they regulate and balance their nutrient intake to maximize lifespan and reproductive fitness.

The recognition that macronutrient selection can be a driver for appropriate diet selection has led to several new studies with dogs and cats.

Domestic cats were studied before dogs and were found to consistently select a diet that was high in protein and fat and low in carbohydrate.5 This profile is consistent with that of other obligate carnivores and with the cat’s wild feline cousins. Interestingly, a recent study found that cats preferentially balanced their diets to a set protein:fat ratio, even when offered foods of different flavor preferences and containing animal- or plant-based protein sources.6 Although flavor and smell were important influences, the strongest factor for food selection appeared to be the total amount of protein in the food, rather than its source.

To date, only two controlled studies have been completed with dogs. In both, dogs have also demonstrated a similar talent to their feline friends for self-selecting the macronutrient content of their diets.7,8 The studies were conducted by different research teams and used somewhat different methodologies, but both reported that dogs preferentially selected diets that were low in carbohydrate and high in fat and protein.

When expressed as a percent of energy, dogs gravitated to a general distribution of 30 to 38 percent protein, 59 to 63 percent fat and 3 to 7 percent carbohydrate. Interestingly, wolves self-select diets that are even lower in carbohydrate: only about 1 percent. Initially, the dogs in these studies were attracted to very high fat diets, but over a period of several days reduced the proportion of fat and moderately increased protein.

An important finding of the most recent study was that when dogs were allowed to choose these dietary proportions over a period of 10 days, they substantially over-consume calories. Because of this, on average the dogs gained almost 3.5 pounds in just 10 days of feeding.

It’s Complicated

At this point in time, we know that dogs can better digest starch in their diet compared with their wolf ancestors (and with present-day wolves). This increased capability is at least partially due to an increase in the production of pancreatic amylase.

We also know that, like us, dogs digest cooked starches very efficiently, but cannot utilize raw starch. The inclusion of at least some level of starch in a dog’s diet provides an efficient source of energy (calories).

Finally, most recently, we have learned that when given the choice, dogs preferentially select a diet that is low in starch and high in protein and fat. However, self-selection of this type of diet (if fed without portion control) may lead to overconsumption and weight gain.

Still, none of this information provides evidence for the healthfulness of a diet containing some starch versus a diet that contains very low (or no) starch in terms of dog’s vitality, ability to maintain a healthy body weight and condition, development of chronic health problems, and longevity.

This has not stopped proponents of low-carb or carb-free diets from making such claims, however. The fact that dogs gravitate to a diet that is high in protein and fat and low in starch is not to be confused with evidence that such a diet has been proven to be healthier or is capable of preventing illness. We simply do not know.

What we need is evidence of whether or not dietary carbohydrate is harmful, beneficial, or, well, neither. Dogs are generalists after all. It is quite possible that they, like many animals, are capable of thriving on a wide variety of diet types, including those with some level of starch.

Like I said, it’s complicated.

Cited Studies

1. Axelsson E, Ratnakumar A, Arendt ML, et al. “The genomic signature of dog domestication reveals adaptation to a starch-rich diet.” Nature 2013; 495:360-364
2. Arendt M, Fall, T, Lindblad-Toh K, Axelsson E. “Amylase activity is associated with AMY2B copy numbers in dogs: Implications for dog domestication, diet and diabetes.” Animal Genetics 2014; 45:716-722
3. Arendt M, Cairns KM, Ballard JWO, Savolainen P, Axelsson E. “Diet adaptation in dogs reflects spread of prehistoric agriculture.” Heredity 2016; 117:301-396
4. Reiter T, Jagoda E, Capellini TD. “Dietary variation and evolution of gene copy number among dog breeds.” PLOSone 2016; 11:e01148899
5. Hewson-Hughes AK, Hewson-Hughes VL, Miller AT, et al. “Geometric analysis of macronutrient selection in the adult domestic cat, Felis catus.” Journal of Experimental Biology 2011; 214:1039-1051
6. Hewson-Hughes AK, Colyer A, Simpson SJ, Raubenheimer D. “Balancing macronutrient intake in a mammalian carnivore: disentangling the influences of flavor and nutrition.” Royal Society of Open Science 2016; 3:160081.
7. Hewson-Hughes AK, Hewson-Hughes VL, Colyer A, et al. “Geometric analysis of macronutrient selection in breeds of the domestic dog, Canis lupus familiaris.” Behavioral Ecology 2013; 24:293-304
8. Roberts MT, Bermingham EN, Cave NJ, Young W, McKenzie CM, Thomas DG. “Macronutrient intake of dogs, self-selecting diets varying in composition offered ad libitum.” Journal of Animal Physiology and Nutrition 2018; 102:568-575

Linda P. Case is the owner of AutumnGold Consulting & Dog Training Center in Mahomet, Illinois. Linda is the author of Dog Food Logic, has a new book, Dog Smart, and writes The Science Dog blog.

Dog DNA Tests: Mixed Results

On a gorgeous spring day in Montana, I was heading back from a romp in the mountains with my three dogs when we stepped out of the woods into a meadow, replete with song birds and a smattering of open range cows grazing peacefully. My trail companions quickly discovered, to their absolute delight, fresh, delicious cow pies.

It occurred to me, however, that I didn’t know the MDR1 (multi-drug resistance gene) status of the newest member of my three-dog crew, Hap. MDR1 is a genetic predisposition to adverse drug reactions to more than a dozen common veterinary drugs, and the gene is found predominantly in herding breeds. Hap looks to be mostly Border Collie with maybe, just maybe, a pinch of Australian Shepherd, so having this predisposition could put him in danger in this situation. Cows are often given ivermectin as an anti-parasitic agent, and the drug can be found shortly afterward in their droppings; eating these droppings can cause a fatal reaction in a dog with the MDR1 mutation. So, I put a moratorium on the afternoon’s pie sampling, much to the dismay of my crew, and off we strolled into the sunset.

When we got home and I began looking up information on MDR1 testing, I learned that many of the genetic tests for breed-typing now also include genetic health screens, including testing for the MDR1 mutation. I thought, why not solve the mystery of Hap’s breed-mix and get health information at the same time? It sounded like fun!

three-legged mixed breed
Kathryn Socie-Dunning

How Do Dog DNA Tests Work?

While some of the early mixed-breed identification tests used a blood sample, all of the products on the market today extract DNA from cells swabbed by the dog’s owner from the inside of the dog’s cheek. The swab is sealed in a container provided by the company and mailed off to the company’s lab. There, technicians extract your dog’s DNA from the swab, and use computers to identify and compare specific bits of it to bits taken from dogs of known lineage.

The genome of a dog contains about 2.5 billion nucleotides (the building blocks of DNA); researchers focus on “only” about 200,000 of these individual genes – or rather, microsatellites or repeating sequences of DNA called single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs, pronounced “snips”) that form signatures particular to various breeds.

Researchers must have enough SNPs from enough purebred representatives of each breed in order to have an adequate array of SNPs to which they can compare your dog’s SNPs. The larger the company’s database of samples from purebred dogs, the better. When a company fails utterly to suggest ancestors of candidate breeds that are remotely likely, it’s probable that it lacks enough breeds in its databanks to find good matches for your dog’s SNPs.

Companies That Offer Mixed-Breed DNA Tests

DNA My Dog

DNA My dog Dog Breed Identification Test, $69. Identification of 92 breeds.
DNA My Dog Breed Test plus Wolf-Coyote Hybrid Test, $89.
DNA Breed Identification Test plus Full Genetic Screening, $189. Health screening identifies more than 100 diseases.

Embark Veterinary, Inc.

Embark Dog DNA Test, $199. Identification of more than 175 breeds and more than 160 diseases. “We test 20 times more of your dog’s genes than other dog DNA tests.”

Wisdom Panel

Canine Breed Detection, $85. Identification for 250+ breeds, plus MDR1 and Exercise-induced Collapse (EIC) screening for drug and exercise sensitivities.
Canine Breed Plus Disease Detection, $150. Identification for 250+ breeds, plus MDR1 and Exercise-induced Collapse (EIC) screening, plus advanced health screening for more than 150 genetic health conditions.

When Your Dog’s Looks Are Deceiving

That said, when dogs of various ancestry reproduce, the resulting pups may visually resemble other breeds entirely – but the genetic signatures inherited from their parents are more telling than the most dog-savvy eye. Take Clara, for example. Clara is a shelter rescue dog, adopted as a young adult, who was presumed to be mostly a Labrador, with a little something more medium-sized in the mix. Her owners, Gianna and Kip Savoie, guessed she had a herding breed somewhere in her lineage, given a lot of Border Collie-like behavioral characteristics they’d seen.

black labrador retriever

They sent a swab of her cheek to Embark for analysis. What came back was mostly what they had suspected: Labrador Retriever, a splash of Border Collie, but with a few smaller surprises and one very big one. This short-haired black dog was, in fact, declared to be more Golden Retriever (38 percent!) than anything else.

Based on the sharpest visual assessment, this may seem like an error, but it is in fact highly feasible.

Golden Retrievers carry a black gene that is expressed in their nose, the pads of their feet, their glamorous thick, black eye-liner, but not their coat. The black is blocked by the yellow gene, which is recessive, as is their characteristic luxurious long locks. A Golden Retriever bred to a dog lacking genes for yellow coloration and long coat, like a black Labrador, therefore, would result in a black dog with a short coat – a dog that looks a lot like Clara.

Some Puzzling Dog DNA Results…

On the more comedic end of the spectrum, Hap, my happy, hoppy, flying Border Collie/mystery-breed cross was declared by Wisdom Panel to be 88 percent Border Collie and 12 percent – ready for this? – Boston Terrier! Having never even seen a Boston Terrier in Montana in my 20 years living here steeped in all things dog, this struck me as highly unlikely.

Since I live in a rural, ranch-heavy area and the shelter from which I acquired this chap is small and more like a herding dog rescue than a general open-door shelter, I struggled to imagine where Boston Terrier genes could have possibly come from. On the other hand, Hap is definitely the most playful, gregarious dog I’ve known and these qualities fit the personality type of the Boston Terriers I’ve met, so maybe. Perhaps there was a Boston Casanova passing through that visited a ranch at just the right time. Strange things can happen.

But sometimes, the results do test the bounds of credulity. Take, as a case in point, the results returned by DNA My Dog from a sample from Otto, a highly-mixed breed dog belonging to WDJ’s editor, Nancy Kerns. Otto has been tested by several companies (see “Otto’s Results,” below). The two companies with the largest breed databases returned fairly similar results. But DNA My Dog, a much smaller company, returned results that were not just completely dissimilar to the results from the two larger companies, but also incredibly improbable. The breeds suggested are highly unlikely to be present in Otto’s geographic area of origin, and even less likely to be present in the identified combination.

When Dog DNA Results Don’t Make Sense

The companies that offer this service have a few standard explanations for results that don’t seem to make sense.

None of the companies would admit that their reference databases are of an inadequate size to accurately identify the SNPs from your dog – but they might suggest that this could be true of their competitors.

All of the companies will be quick to explain that there are hundreds of thousands of genes that are responsible for a dog’s appearance, and that many breed combinations result in dogs who look very different than what you would expect from that mix of breeds.

Also, genes in mixed breeds do not always combine in the same ways within all litter-mates, so size and physical and behavioral characteristics in the same litter of pups can and often do vary, sometimes wildly.

They also explain that the complexity of your dog’s mix will affect the accuracy of the results. First-generation crosses between two purebred parents are relatively easy to identify, but dogs who don’t have any purebred ancestors within several generations are much harder to identify with much certainty, as the length of the inherited SNPs that are unique to purebred dogs become much shorter with each generation of mixed-breed progeny.

Problems with identification can also arise when there is a lot of divergence within a specific breed-type, like in the case of Australian Shepherds and Border Collies, where you have field-bred lines and show-bred lines. The genetic signatures in the companies’ databases usually correspond with show-bred lines, so field-bred Aussies and BCs might even get assigned to a different breed altogether.

Both Embark and Wisdom Panel make it easy for consumers to contact them and ask questions about their dogs’ results. I called and asked a representative from Wisdom Panel to review Hap’s results with me and was told that the statistical confidence in the Boston Terrier finding was marginal, meaning there is a high probability this result is not correct. Hap could have 12 percent of something not represented in the Wisdom Panel database (such as field-bred Australian Shepherds), but since this unique signature does not currently exist in the database, he was assigned to the breed with the closest matching genetic signature. I was told that updates will be made to Hap’s report as new information is added to the database.

Which Dog DNA Test is Best?

Of the brands available, Embark and Wisdom Panel appear to be the most transparent about their methodologies and about the information available in their databases. They both make frequent updates to their products, while also being accessible to answer consumer questions. This makes them both rise to the top in my book. Note, however, that the basic Wisdom Panel 4.0 Breed Detection test costs less than half the price of the Embark test.

Other companies, like DNA My Dog, has a relatively small database with 92 breeds, very scant information available about their methodology, and I found it difficult to even find contact information to ask questions.

While commercial genetic breed-typing is still evolving, it is interesting and ridiculously fun, which is worth something. More companies are offering genetic health screens as well, which may prove useful for the long-term health care of your dog. A lot of it may not be applicable to your particular four-legged friend, so before shelling out the money, be sure to consult your veterinarian to find out what she or he recommends.

Otto’s Results

Otto’s results have morphed over the past eight years, with the unlikely Basenji disappearing and a bully breed and Australian Cattle Dog appearing in the mix. Note that the results provided by the two leading mixed-breed test providers are pretty darn similar – and that the results from the smallest company offering this service border on fantasy. (Those breeds are highly uncommon in Otto’s area of origin, and would be even more uncommonly seen in the same dog.)

2009: Wisdom Panel

German Shepherd Dog
Basenji
Chow Chow
Border Collie

2016: DNA My Dog

Level 3 (20%-36%): Collie, Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
Level 4 (10%-20%): English Setter, Norwegian Elkhound

2016: Wisdom Panel

12.5% American Staffordshire Terrier
12.5% Australian Cattle Dog
12.5% Border Collie
12.5% Chow Chow
12.5% German Shepherd Dog
37.5% (mixed)

2018: Embark

21.3% American Pit Bull Terrier
14.1% Australian Cattle Dog
13.2% German Shepherd Dog
12.3% Chow Chow
10.3% Labrador Retriever
8.0% Border Collie
4.3% Rottweiler
16.5% (“Supermutt”)

Kathryn Socie-Dunning lives with her husband and three dogs in Montana.

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