How to Make Homemade Dog Food

A homemade dog food diet isn't hard to design, but does require planning. Here is how to make dog food at home that is complete and balanced and that your dog will love!

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HOMEMADE DOG FOOD: OVERVIEW

1. Feed your dog a wide variety of foods from different food groups.

2. Make sure you supplement your dog’s homemade diet with calcium unless you feed raw meaty bones.

3. Stick to lean meats and remove skin from the poultry you feed unless your dog is highly active.

4. Keep in mind that the less variety of foods you feed, the more important supplements become.

5. Review your homemade dog food diet plan with a veterinarian for approval.


In the past few issues of Whole Dog Journal, I have offered critiques on homemade dog food diets in order to address the dog’s health concerns – or simply to optimize the dog’s diet plan. To do this, I analyzed the cooked and raw homemade dog food diets and compared them to the National Research Council’s guidelines for canine nutrition. I want to be clear, though: I don’t believe this is a requirement for feeding home-cooked dog food. Just as with the diet you feed yourself and your family, feeding a wide variety of healthy foods in appropriate proportions should meet the needs of most healthy dogs. The best diet for dogs, in effect, is a diverse diet.

Problems arise with how healthy dog food is interpreted. Too often, people think that they’re feeding healthy homemade dog food, when key ingredients may be missing or are fed in excess. Here’s how to make dog food at home, and specific guidelines to help ensure that the dog food diet you feed meets your individual dog’s requirements. You do not want just one dog food recipe to follow – you need several, and need to be comfortable mixing and matching ingredients, for reasons explained below.

Complete and Balanced Dog Food Diets

It’s important homemade dog food is “complete and balanced,” meaning it meets all of the dog’s nutritional needs. It is not important, however, that every meal be complete and balanced, unless you feed the same meal every day with little or no variation.

Home-prepared dog diets that include a wide variety of foods fed at different meals rely on balance over time, not at every meal. Similar to the way humans eat, as long as your dog gets everything he needs spread out over each week or two, his diet will be complete and balanced.

Making Homemade Dog Food

A human nutritionist would never expect someone to follow a single recipe with no variation, as veterinary nutritionists routinely do. Instead, a human would be given guidelines in terms of food groups and portion sizes. As long as your dog doesn’t have a health problem that requires a very specific diet, homemade dog food should be the same way.

For more on homemade dog treats, see “DIY Gifts for Dogs: Homemade Dog Treats & Healthy Recipes.”

Keep in mind that puppies are more susceptible to problems caused by nutritional deficiencies or excesses than adult dogs are. Large-breed puppies are particularly at risk from too much calcium prior to puberty. See “Puppy Food: Nutritional Guidelines to Maximize Health,” for more on puppy nutrition.

GUIDELINES TO CREATING BALANCED HOMEMADE DOG FOOD RECIPES

Following are guidelines for feeding a raw or cooked home-prepared diet to healthy dogs. No single type of food, such as chicken, should ever make up more than half the diet.

Except where specified, homemade food for dogs can be fed either raw or cooked. Leftovers from your table can be included as long as they’re foods you would eat yourself, not fatty scraps.

Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet. A raw diet for dogs can be excessively high in fat, which can lead to obesity. Another potential hazard of diets containing too much fat: If an owner restricts the amount fed (in order to control the dog’s weight) too much, the dog may suffer deficiencies of other required nutrients.

Unless your dog gets regular, intense exercise, use lean meats (no more than 10 percent fat), remove skin from poultry, and cut off separable fat. It’s better to feed dark meat poultry than breast, however, unless your dog requires a very low-fat diet.

Raw Meaty Bones (optional): If you choose to feed them, RMBs should make up one third to one half of the total diet. Use the lower end of the range if you feed bony parts such as chicken necks and backs, but you can feed more if you’re using primarily meatier parts such as chicken thighs. Never feed cooked bones. Read a full report on raw meaty bones here.

Boneless Meat: Include both poultry and red meat. Heart is a good choice, as it is lean and often less expensive than other muscle meats.

Fish: Provides vitamin D, which otherwise should be supplemented. Canned fish with bones, such as sardines (packed in water, not oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon, are good choices. Remove bones from fish you cook yourself, and never feed raw Pacific salmon, trout, or related species. You can feed small amounts of fish daily, or larger amounts once or twice a week. The total amount should be about one ounce of fish per pound of other meats (including RMBs).

Organs: Liver should make up roughly 5 percent of this category, or about one ounce of liver per pound of other animal products. Beef liver is especially nutritious, but include chicken or other types of liver at least occasionally as well. Feeding small amounts of liver daily or every other day is preferable to feeding larger amounts less often.

A selection of ingredients being mixed into homemade dog food.

Eggs: Highly nutritious addition to any diet. Dogs weighing about 20 pounds can have a whole egg every day, but give less to smaller dogs.

Dairy: Plain yogurt and kefir are well tolerated by most dogs (try goat’s milk products if you see problems). Cottage and ricotta cheese are also good options. Limit other forms of cheese, as most are high in fat.

Fruits and Vegetables: While not a significant part of the evolutionary diet of the dog and wolf, fruits and vegetables provide fiber that supports digestive health, as well as antioxidants and other beneficial nutrients that contribute to health and longevity. Deeply colored vegetables and fruits are the most nutritious.

Starchy Vegetables: Veggies such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes (including pumpkin), as well as legumes (beans), provide carbohydrate calories that can be helpful in reducing food costs and keeping weight on skinny and very active dogs. Quantities should be limited for overweight dogs. Starchy foods must be cooked in order to be digestible.

Leafy Green and Other Non-Starchy Vegetables: These are low in calories and can be fed in any quantity desired. Too much can cause gas, and raw, cruciferous veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower can suppress thyroid function (cook them if you feed large amounts). Raw vegetables must be pureed in a food processor, blender, or juicer in order to be digested properly by dogs, though whole raw veggies are not harmful and can be used as treats.

And while you’re preparing these nutritious foods for your dog, consider boosting your own health by adding more veggies to your diet too!

Fruits: Bananas, apples, berries, melon, and papaya are good choices. Avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs.

Grains: Controversial, as they may contribute to inflammation caused by allergies, arthritis, or inflammatory bowel disease (IBD); as well as seizures and other problems (it’s not clear whether starchy vegetables do the same). Some grains contain gluten that may cause digestive problems for certain dogs. Many dogs do fine with grains, however, and they can be used to reduce the overall cost of feeding a homemade diet.

Grains and starchy veggies should make up no more than half the diet. Good choices include oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, barley, and pasta. White rice can be used to settle an upset stomach, particularly if overcooked with extra water, but it’s low in nutrition and should not make up a large part of the diet. All grains must be well cooked.

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS FOR HOME-FED DOGS

Some supplements are required in addition to natural food for dogs. Others may be needed if you are not able to feed a variety of foods, or if you leave out one or more of the food groups above. In addition, the longer food is cooked or frozen, the more nutrients are lost. Here are some dog supplements to consider:

Calcium

Unless you feed RMBs, all homemade diets must be supplemented with calcium. The amount found in multivitamin and mineral supplements is not enough. Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables). You can use any form of plain calcium, including eggshells ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder (1/2 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 1,000 mg calcium). Animal Essentials‘ Seaweed Calcium provides additional minerals, as well. And here is a good list of calcium-rich foods your dog may like. Just please note this list is for humans and includes orange juice, which is not a good thing to give your dog as the acidity can cause stomach upset.

Oils

Most homemade diets require added oils for fat, calories, and to supply particular nutrients. It’s important to use the right types of oils, as each supplies different nutrients.

Fish Oil: Fish oil for dogs provides EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids that help to regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation. Give an amount that provides about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight on days you don’t feed fish. Note that liquid fish oil supplements often tell you to give much more than this, which can result in too many calories from fat.

Cod Liver Oil: Provides vitamins A and D as well as EPA and DHA. If you don’t feed much fish, give cod liver oil in an amount that provides about 400 IUs vitamin D daily for a 100-pound dog (proportionately less for smaller dogs). Can be combined with other fish oil to increase the amount of EPA and DHA if desired.

Plant Oils: If you don’t feed much poultry fat, found in dark meat and skin, linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, may be insufficient. You can use walnut, hempseed, corn, vegetable (soybean), or high-linoleic safflower oil to supply linoleic acid if needed. Add about one teaspoon of oil per pound of meat and other animal products, or twice that amount if using canola or sunflower oil. Olive oil and high-oleic safflower oil are low in omega-6 and cannot be used as a substitute, although small amounts can be added to supply fat if needed. Coconut oil provides mostly saturated fats, and can be used in addition to but not as a replacement for other oils.

Other Vitamins and Minerals

In addition to vitamin D discussed above, certain vitamins and minerals may be short in some homemade diets, particularly those that don’t include organ meats or vegetables. The more limited the diet that you feed, the more important supplements become, but even highly varied diets are likely to be light in a few areas.

Vitamin E: All homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been short on vitamin E, and the need for vitamin E increases when you supplement with oils. Too much vitamin E, however, may be counterproductive. Give 1 to 2 IUs per pound of body weight daily.

Iodine: Too much or too little iodine can suppress thyroid function, and it’s hard to know how much is in the diet. A 50-pound dog needs about 300 mcg (micrograms) of iodine daily. Kelp is high in iodine, though the amount varies considerably among supplements.

Multivitamin and mineral supplements: A multivitamin and mineral supplement will help to meet most requirements, including iodine and vitamins D and E, but it’s important not to over supplement minerals. If using the one-a-day type of human supplements, such as Centrum for Adults under 50, give one per 40 to 50 pounds of body weight daily. Note that most supplements made for dogs provide a reasonable amount of vitamins but are low in minerals, and so won’t make up for deficiencies in the diet. Be cautious with small dogs; I’ve seen some supplements that recommend the same dosage for 10-pound dogs as for those weighing 50 or even 100 pounds. In those cases, the dosage is usually too high for the small dogs and should be reduced. Products made for humans are also inappropriate for small dogs.

Green Blends: Often containing alfalfa and various herbs, green blends may be especially helpful if you don’t include many green vegetables in your dog’s diet. You can also use a pre-mix that includes alfalfa and vegetables, such as The Honest Kitchen‘s Preference. Note most pre-mixes also supply calcium, so you should reduce or eliminate calcium supplements, depending on how much of the pre-mix you use.


Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Contact her via her website if you would like to submit a diet to be critiqued.

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Mary Straus
Mary Straus has been a regular contributor to Whole Dog Journal since 2006. Mary first became interested in dog training and behavior in the 1980s. In 1997, Mary attended a seminar on wolf behavior at Wolf Park in Indiana. There, she was introduced to clicker training for the first time, and began to consider the question of how we feed our dogs after watching the wolves eat whole deer carcasses. Mary maintains and operates her own site, DogAware.com, which offers information and research on canine nutrition and health. DogAware.com has been created to help make people more "aware" of how to make the best decisions for their dogs. It's designed for people who like to ask questions and understand the reasoning behind decisions, rather than just being told what to do.  Mary has spent years doing research for people whose dogs have health problems, or who just want to learn how to feed them a better diet. Over this time, she has learned a great deal about dog nutrition and health, including the role of diet, supplements and nutraceuticals.  In 2007, she was asked by The Ivy Group to contribute to The Healthy Dog Cookbook. She previously also wrote a column for Dog World.

157 COMMENTS

  1. I’ve been trying to create multiple cooked food recipes for my dogs. I have all the essential nutrients and ingredients covered but finding some good rules of thumbs for ratios has been a very confusing point and your article has helped me with some of that except I’m confused by your statement in regards to meats. “Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet.” Half of what? For example my recipes contain some form of meat and eggs which would be animal products, and then mixed with carbs such as rice, oatmeal, and potatoes, as well as fiber such as peas, carrots, and spinach. So say for example and to simplify things, if I was making just a chicken and rice meal. If I used 1lb of chicken breasts, and going by your “half” suggestion, would I use 1lb of uncooked dry rice or 1lb of cooked rice for the other half? Or is this “half” by volume quantity? 1 cup of chicken combined with 1 cup of rice? Please help me understand what you mean by “half”. Half of what? Thanks!

    • Rednroll, your question is a good one. My feeling is that meat and other animal products should provide at least half the calories your dog receives, but that’s not always easy to calculate. If you just use cooked weights, not including any non-starchy veggies, that should be close enough. So, using your example above, I would combine one pound of meat with one pound of COOKED (not uncooked, which would make a huge amount of rice), then add the veggies. Volume measurements of cooked foods would also work, except that it’s hard to measure meat by volume — one cup of chicken breast could vary quite a bit in weight depending on how the meat is cut up and how tightly it’s packed in.
      BTW, if you feed chicken breasts, you should include the skin. Better yet, feed dark meat chicken (legs and thighs), which has much more taurine, as well as some of the essential fatty acids needed from poultry. You can include some of the skin from dark meat poultry as long as your dog is somewhat active and doesn’t have a problem tolerating fat; include all of it for highly active dogs. Be sure to use different kinds of meat (red meat, poultry and fish), include some liver, and add additional foods such as eggs and dairy, as well as calcium and vitamin E.

  2. Why so much calcium for dogs ? ! 200mg /pounds seems a lot for my 100 pounds dog it would be 72 g?! A 165 pounds man need just 1200 Mg an à dog half this weight would need 99000mg?! This make a non sense for me they not have more bones..than us so why so much calcium ? ?

    • Thomas, I can’t figure out where your numbers came from. I never mention “200 mg/pound” anywhere. I also can’t figure out how you calculated 72 grams (72,000 mg) from anything either you or I or anyone else wrote.
      My article above says, “Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables).” A dog weighing 100 lbs would eat about two pounds of food, which would be 2,000 mg (2 grams) of calcium daily.

  3. I loved your article UNTIL I got to the part of putting CENTRUM vitamins in the dog food. These do NOT absorb in the body at all. This is the worst vitamin on the market. I am a Chiropractor and whenever I saw an unabsorbed suppliment in the colon I asked what type of vitamin they took. Every time it was Centrum!!!

    • S. Roberson, what you say is interesting. Any one-a-day type of multivitamin could be substituted for Centrum, but it’s important not to use supplements that provide megadoses of anything (far more than the daily requirement for humans), as that may be too much for dogs.

      I’m currently using New Chapter Tiny Tabs for my small dog, as the recommended dose for adult humans is 6 tablets, so I can safely give 1 tablet to my 9-lb dog.
      https://www.newchapter.com/products/tiny-tabs-multivitamin/

  4. This is the most helpful article I’ve come across. And your responses to the comments have been so helpful too! My 31 lb. Rat Terrier was recently diagnosed with pancreatitis and is now eating Royal Canin low-fat vet food and on antibiotics (which I am not sure is really necessary). After learning more about what causes pancreatitis, I decided a homemade diet would be best for my dog. He has had digestive issues since he was a puppy, mostly loose stool and regurgitating food shortly after eating, We’ve only ever fed kibble. I am optimistic about trying to cook for him will resolve these issues. Any words of guidance? Oh, and he needs to lose about 3-4lbs too.

  5. Maybe I missed it, but how do I determine how many lbs of dog food to give per day based off my dogs body weight? A lot of your recommendations say “per lb of food” but I’m not sure how many lbs of food to be giving per day.

    • Jessica, there is no way to tell you how much to feed your dog without accounting for what and who you’re feeding. High-fat meats may have two or three times more calories than lean meats. Cooked grains tend to be high in calories, but non-starchy veggies have almost no calories and should not be include in any calculations (feed whatever amount of non-starchy veggies you want that your dog likes and does well with). Small dogs eat much more for their weight than large dogs do. Young, active dogs generally need more calories for their weight than older or sedentary dogs do. If you give treats, chews or leftovers, those calories must be subtracted from the amount you feed in daily meals.
      If you’ve been feeding a commercial food, you should be able to calculate approximately how many calories your dog has been getting, or there are calorie calculators online that can help you determine how many your dog needs based on (ideal) weight, life stage and activity level. You would then need to figure out the calories in what you’re feeding, using NutritionData or other sources. Regardless of what method you use, your individual dog may vary, so the only way to know for sure how much food your dog needs is to watch their weight (weigh regularly if possible) and adjust the amount you feed as needed to keep your dog at a lean, healthy weight.
      One way to get some idea is to generate recipes on the BalanceIT website (https://secure.balanceit.com), though their estimates run high and need to be reduced for most pet dogs to prevent weight gain.

  6. Should the eggs be raw or cooked? Also in the organs category you mentioned that liver should be part of that, but then what other organs should be used? And should they be cooked?
    My dog has had lots of skin problems this summer, and even though I have been feeding him a high quality dry kibble…now I’m interested in switching away from it completely. I hope that his suffering will stop.
    Thanks for the informative article!

    • Eggs can be fed either raw or cooked, though the whites may be better digested if cooked. Liver is the most nutritious organ, but heart is also good choice to include in the diet.
      Have you talked to your vet? Skin problems can be caused by many things. The most common is fleas — if your dog is allergic to flea bites, then even a single bite can cause intense itching and scratching that can last up to two weeks. If you’re not using reliable flea prevention, that’s the best place to start.
      Environmental allergies to things like grasses, pollens, dust and mold are far more common than food allergies. Seasonal flare-ups are likely caused by environmental allergies.
      Secondary infections (bacterial or yeast) can cause itching and scratching even after the underlying cause has been addressed. Sarcoptic mange can also cause intense itching (it’s contagious, so if your dog has it, other pets in your household would also be affected, and you might notice a rash on yourself).
      Sometimes where a dog is itchy can provide clues. Itching around the tail is often fleas. Recurrent ear infections are a sign of allergies (food or environment). Paw licking and itching on the underside of the dog may be due to contact (environmental) allergies. Your vet may be able to tell more with an exam and skin scraping (to look for secondary infections).

  7. I feel like I’m reading a lot of lazy peoples replies. If your dog is over weight, take it for a walk outside or throw ball twice a day. If you take your dog outside, it will not have a vitamin D deficiency either. We all need a little more exercise in our life and your dog will live longer.

  8. I’m going a bit nuts trying to figure out a balanced home cooked diet for my dog. Up until 2 weeks ago, he was fed raw for 8 yrs, and I always thought it was balanced, with addition of veggies, RMBs, organs etc.
    My dog was diagnosed with a sudden onset auto-immune disorder, such that he can never do raw again, bc of possible bacterial contamination.
    So now I’m cooking for him and completely boggled as to what’s too much or too little re: nutrients/vitamins, vis-a-vis what’s already in the food + additional supplementation.
    I ordered Hilary’s Blend supplement powder with the cookbook to be used in conjunction, but somehow, i have niggling feeling that with her diet plan + supp, he may end up getting too much vit D + A.??
    This book, and supp is formulated by certified pet nutritionist, and is special ordered through vet clinics, so do I have blind faith in this?
    Does anyone out there use Hilary’s recipes/supp? Would love your review on.

    • I’m not a fan of Hilary Watson, as she refuses to provide a nutritional analysis of her supplement, and I won’t buy or recommend any product that will not give out this important information. When I first looked into her recipes, some were dangerously high in fat, with as much as 86% of calories coming from fat, and although I believe this may have changed, it doesn’t give me confidence in her or her products. I would use Balance IT recipes and supplements instead.