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A Close Look at Dog Collars

by Nancy Kerns

Dogs have become very popular in the last decade or so, and with their increasingly higher-profile place in our society, there has been a boom in businesses that create unique and useful dog-care products. Collars might just be the most ubiquitous.

There’s an adage: “Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door.” We think it ought to be dog collar. There are now hundreds of special-purpose collars on the market: products that purport to prevent pulling, safety collars that release under tension, light-up or reflective collars for walking in the dark, collars with built-in retractable leashes or poop-bag dispensers . . . the list is almost endless.

Equally endless is the selection of plain old “regular” collars, products that provide only the most basic services: offer a place to secure your dog’s ID and your leash. It’s astonishing how much variety can be brought to the most basic product. Even in the “regular” collar category, there are products that emphasize certain abilities: increased strength, for example, or comfort, light weight, smoothness on the coat, or ease of use. Or, of course, fashion. Collars that look cool while working well – what more can you ask for?

Selection Criteria
Sometimes when we do a review of a certain type of product, there are only a few to examine, so we can try them all and tell you which ones performed well and which ones you shouldn’t waste your money on. Since this category is so huge – even with specialty collars excluded – all of the products we are going to tell you about in this review qualify as “top picks,” earning our four-paw rating (see “Rating System and Product Details” sidebar). We won’t bother telling you about the many products that failed our in-store examination, or the catalog-sourced products that disappointed us. We’d rather use the space on products we really like.

What, exactly, do we like in a collar? To start, we look for top-quality materials – leather that is soft and supple, evenly dyed, neither greasy nor dry; nylon that feels smooth and pliable; and buckles and snaps that open and close easily and securely. Next, we examine the quality of the workmanship. We want to see tight, even stitching, and nylon ends that are smoothly heat-sealed to prevent fraying. The collar should be constructed in such a way that it lies nicely around the dog’s neck, without pressing or bending inward in a way that could rub or otherwise cause the dog to be uncomfortable.

Next, we look for products that are easy to use. Sometimes this is a result of good hardware – for example, when the maker utilizes a D-ring that is especially large, making it easy to clip a leash onto it. In other cases, the ease-of-use is a result of good workmanship, such as when the holes for a buckle are punched a little on the large side, to make it easier to align the tongue of the buckle with just the right hole.

Last, but not least, we look for products that offer a lot more than the usual amount of attractiveness. Hip? Elegant? Showy? Any and all qualify.

Okay, let’s get on with it. In no particular order, here are the collars currently on the market that we like best.

Hemp Collars
Wow! Hemp has to be the softest, most comfortable, but strong fabric we’ve ever felt. Planet Dog has put the material to great use in its flat collars, available in an unlined style or lined with a soft fleece material.

As we went to press, we learned that Planet Dog recently discontinued its models with the belt-type buckles (shown in center and left, above) in favor of metal side-release style buckles. (The smallest size has plastic buckles – lighter for little dogs.) We liked both types, but the side-release models are more adjustable, so it’s fine with us.

We were originally attracted to the fleece-lined collar for dogs we know with very thin coats; leather, nylon, and even cotton can rub bare spots on some of these dogs’ necks and throats. The fleece does a nice job of keeping the coat intact, but we found that the unlined hemp was easy on these dogs’ coats, too. We also liked the ample size of the D-rings for attaching leashes.

Planet Dog offers these collars in just a few groovy colors: apple-green, orange, and purple. Matching leashes are available.

The company literature claimed that hemp takes washing well, and just gets better with time. That’s been our experience so far.

Soft Web Collars
There are dozens of nylon collars on the market, but we don’t know any company besides White Pine that uses this very soft, silky nylon for its collars (and leashes, long lines, and harnesses). It’s an absolute pleasure in the hand, making the order of a matching leash a necessity! The material is colorfast and can be washed frequently without stiffening. The collars come in a variety of widths, from 3/8″ (which is very lightweight, for tiny dogs) to an attractive 1″ for big dogs. They are also available in a wide variety of bright, pretty colors.

The Soft Web collars are available in two styles: the “Soft Snap,” which has a plastic side-release buckle (shown in the center of the photo above), or the “Soft Slip” (the outer collar in the photo), which is a limited-slip collar. The latter type of collar tightens slightly with leash tension to prevent a dog from slipping out of it, but if properly fit, they cannot choke a dog). The D-rings on the collars are black stainless steel. Best of all is the reasonable price.

Tail Waggin’ Collars
These are the second-most expensive collars we’ve featured here, but also the most attractive, in our opinion – colorful, unique, well-made, and perfectly functional.

Wendel Wirth, proprietor of “a tail we could wag” (yes, it’s spelled with all small letters), made the first “Tail Waggin’ Collar” for her own dog out of an old leash and a worn Guatemalan sash. She and her dog received so many compliments about the collar, that she began sewing a limited number of the collars and selling them in a local bar and grill. A thriving business was born.

Wirth now offers collars (and matching leashes) in a number of gorgeous patterns, all of which are traditional Mayan designs, woven for the company by native Mayans in Guatemala. The woven cotton is then stitched to a strong, soft nylon backing. The hardware used includes large solid brass D-rings and plastic side-release buckles that are slightly curved, for the dog’s comfort. Little touches like these really improve the performance of a product, and we just love these collars.

Top Rope Collar
This flat collar has a couple of cool features that almost make it too “tricked out” to include in this “regular” collar review.

It gets its name by virtue of an elegantly simple (and probably soon-to-be-copied) feature: a plastic “keeper” that keeps a large D-ring conveniently positioned at the back of the dog’s neck, where you can quickly and easily snap the leash on and off. Plus, with the leash fastened at the back of the dog’s neck, he’s less likely to step over the leash when you’re not paying attention. Too cool! An extra-heavy side-release buckle also serves as “ballast,” helping to hold the collar in the “right” position. This might prove a bit too clunky for a very small dog, but then again, the smallest size can be adjusted down to only nine inches, so perhaps this is self-limiting.

Another innovative feature (shared by some of Ruff Wear’s other collars) is a separate plastic loop, sewn onto the nylon fabric, for your dog’s ID tags. No more accidently clipping the leash onto the flimsy little ring the ID tags hang on!

The Top Rope Collar is available in four solid colors and four cool patterns.

Knot-A-Collar
Here’s another basic collar from Ruff Wear with some neat “extra” features.

The Knot-a-Collar has a minimal appearance that some owners will like; it looks like just a bit of light, mountain-climbing-type rope tied around the dog’s neck. But as the name suggests, the knots that the collar is tied with are what makes it special. You slip the buckleless collar over the dog’s head; it takes two hands pulling on the collar a certain way to adjust its fit. When a leash is attached properly to the stainless steel ring on the collar, no amount of tension will make the collar tighten. But if the dog snags the collar on something, it will slide loose enough to free him.

Ruff Wear has again included a separate ring on which the dog’s ID tags can be hung, so you don’t accidently snap the leash onto the flimsy ID tag ring.

The Knot-a-Collar is available in three colors and two widely adjustable sizes.

Mrs. Bones Collars
Okay, we know: That’s a crazy price for a dog collar. These collars are for dogs who belong to completely dog-crazy people.

All of Mrs. Bones collars are made of washable fabric, and use solid brass hardware, or in some designs, plastic side-release buckles. That’s the only generalization we’ll make about these collars, because the company offers a head-spinning array of deluxe fabrics and patterns to choose from. The tiny ones start at 5/8″ wide; the giant collars are up to 2″ wide. The fabrics include velvet, brocade, tartan, and silk-lined models.

All of Mrs. Bones collars are available in three different basic forms. The first has a standard plastic side-release buckle (the nice, curved kind). The second is what Mrs. Bones calls a “sighthound” style – a “limited slip” design that slides over the dog’s head and then is adjusted to fit. The D-ring for leash attachment is sewn into a separate loop of fabric that tightens to a limited degree with tension on the leash.

The final style is a “single loop” design that also passes over a dog’s head and is adjusted with a slider to fit. The latter style is particularly well-suited for tiny dogs or dogs with delicate skin or coats, since there is no buckle to rub the coat or irritate the dog’s neck.

Simply put, Mrs. Bones has the biggest offering of really gorgeous and unique designs available; there are several hundred styles and sizes to choose from, and the collars are custom-made for your dog. If it’s important to you to have the only collar of a particular kind in your whole town, Mrs. Bones is the place to shop.

Presidio Collar
This is a very simple collar that makes our list by virtue of the unique material it is made of: BioThane, a patented material made of a polypropylene webbing that is coated with urethane.

Used increasingly in horse tack, BioThane is an incredibly strong, flexible material, and available in a wide variety of vivid colors (and even a glow-in-the-dark option for an extra $2, but we didn’t test that one). BioThane is also waterproof, if the material is heat-sealed at every spot where it is cut or punched. We couldn’t detect evidence of heat-sealing in the products we tested, but even if OllyDog doesn’t do it, it’s a simple thing to do yourself, with a fire-heated blade or screwdriver.

These collars are lightweight, smooth, and so flexible, they must be comfortable. They can be ordered in one of two widths: 3/4″ or 1″. The hardware appears to be high-quality stainless steel. Best of all, the material can be kept clean and odor-free with the wipe of a sponge.

Dog Crating Difficulties

The topic turned to crating on one of my trainer e-mail lists recently. I was horrified to read that some shelters and rescue groups refuse to adopt to prospective owners who intend to use a crate with their dogs. What madness is this?

I first discovered crates some 30 years ago, when they were relatively new to the dog scene. I was skeptical about putting my new Australian Kelpie puppy in a “cage,” but since Keli was part of a Canine Field Agent program for the Marin Humane Society where I worked as a Humane Officer, I was determined to do everything perfectly right. I reluctantly decided to try crating.

dog crates

On the third night, when I went to deposit Keli in her crate, I found Caper, my three-year-old Bull Terrier, happily curled up in the pup’s den. Caper smiled up at me and thumped her tail in the blankets, clearly saying, “This is wonderful! Can I have one of my own? Please, can I?”

I bought Caper a crate of her own the next day, and have been a total crate advocate ever since. How could they now be perceived as a bad thing?

As I followed the discussion, I realized that the negative crate perspective stemmed from concerns of “overcrating.” Apparently some owners crate their dogs all day while they’re at work, let them out for a couple of hours when they come home, and then crate the dogs all night while everyone is sleeping. This, some shelters fear, is too much time in a crate for a dog’s physical and mental health.

They’re right.

The crate is an invaluable management tool. Like any training tool, it can be misused. Even when used properly, it’s not necessarily the appropriate tool for every dog in every circumstance. The discussion that follows may help you decide when, and whether, it’s the right choice for you and your canine pal.

Overcrating Dogs

A properly used crate can be the answer to your housetraining prayers. I was astounded by the ease with which I was able to housetrain my Kelpie pup. I also, however, was in the enviable position of being able to take my baby dog to work with me, so I was never tempted – or compelled – to crate her for longer that she could “hold it.”

If you’re a normal person whose boss frowns on dogs at work, you simply can’t crate your pup all day while you’re gone. He’ll be forced to eliminate in his crate, breaking down his inhibitions against soiling his own den – the very inhibitions you rely on to be able to accomplish house-training.

A general rule of thumb is that puppies can “hold it” during the day for up to one hour longer than they are months old. In other words, your eight-week-old baby dog can be crated for perhaps up to three hours during the day. They can usually go somewhat longer at night because metabolism slows, but it’s a rare two-month-old who can go through the night without a potty break.

So, you can only crate your pup during an 8- to 10-hour workday if you can arrange for at least two bathroom breaks. One quick run home at lunch won’t be enough, at least not until he’s five to six months old.

In addition to performing necessary bodily functions, a growing pup needs to move around in order to develop properly. Some runaround time during the day helps him develop mentally and physically, practicing skills and learning lessons he can’t make up later in life.

Finally, a pup who spends his entire day in a crate stores up mental and physical energy. When an owner comes home exhausted after working all day, she’s rarely in a state of mind to cope with pent-up puppy frenzies, or to provide adequate exercise and mental stimulation to make up for a day of relative deprivation. The rela-tionship suffers, and the pup gets relegated to the backyard, alone, or worse – put back into the crate.

While adult dogs are more physically capable of “holding it” for extended periods than puppies, it’s still not appropriate for a dog to be routinely crated for 10 hours. Hence, the concerns of adoption agencies.

Solution for Overcrating Your Dog

Alternatives to crating include finding alternative confinement options, arranging for multiple bathroom breaks, or finding a daycare situation of some kind.

Some owners simply leave their dogs – including puppies – outside in a fenced yard during the day. This allows the dog total freedom to poop and pee at will. It also leaves him vulnerable to threats from the environment – theft, poisoning, accidental escape, snakes, raccoons, skunks, coyotes. I even met a pup once with a huge scar across his back – souvenir of a brief flight, fortunately aborted, in the talons of a Golden Eagle.

Outdoor confinement also leaves the dog free to practice inappropriate behaviors such as digging, escaping, and barking, and exposes him to the extremes of weather.

It might be safer to confine your pup indoors, either in a small puppy-proofed room such as a bathroom, or in a secure exercise pen. This requires newspapering the floor, and perhaps encouraging the dog to use one of the commercial pee pad products or a litter box, essentially giving him permission to eliminate in the house.

This solution has risks as well. Your pup can learn to rip up vinyl flooring and chew on cabinets if he’s loose in a bathroom. He may be able to knock over his exercise pen if it’s not well secured, climb out (some come with lids), or get a leg caught between the bars. If you plan to use an ex-pen, get him used to it while you’re home, to be sure none of these things are likely to happen.

Multiple bathroom breaks may be easier than you think. If there are two adults in the household, perhaps you can stagger your lunches – one at 11am, one at 1pm – to give him two breaks. If not, a commercial pet sitter can take a daily turn at potty breaks. Other options include friends, neighbors, or family members who live close enough to provide the service until the pup is older. You might even find a local teenage dog lover who would cherish the opportunity to earn some spending money.

Finally, Spot may just need to go somewhere else during the day. Commercial doggie daycare centers are increasingly popular and available.

If Your Dog Soils His Crate

If Spot eliminates in his crate even when not overcrated, your first course of action is to rule out medical problems. Loose stools, a urinary tract infection, or other incontinence problems make it impossible for a dog to hold it for normal periods of time.

Assuming all is well, there are several other possible causes of crate soiling:

• Your dog has been routinely overcrated in the past, and was forced to soil his crate. His inhibitions against soiling his den have been damaged. He now thinks the crate in an acceptable bathroom.

• Your dog isn’t eliminating outdoors before being crated.

• Your dog has separation anxiety (SA) and is voiding his bladder and bowels during his SA panic attack.

Solution for Crate-Soiling

Your approach to Spot’s crate-soiling behavior depends on the cause. If he has learned to soil his crate, it may help to change his bedding, or remove bedding altogether until he’s retrained. Bedding that absorbs fluids, such as a blanket, can make it more comfortable for your dog to be in his soiled crate. His current bedding also may have become his preferred substrate. Try newspaper instead, a square of heavy duty compressed foam rubber (the kind used for flooring), or no bedding. A tether may be a reasonable alternative to nighttime crating.

Make sure his crate is the correct size – big enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If it’s too large he can potty in one end and sleep in the other.

Perhaps you’re just not making sure Spot eliminates outside before you crate him. In your morning rush to get to work on time, you let him out in the backyard and assume he empties before he comes back in. That may be an incorrect assumption. If it’s cold or rainy, he may have huddled on the back porch, waiting to be let back in. Perhaps he was distracted digging for moles under a bush, or barking at the kids walking past the yard on their way to school. Maybe he gets a cookie for coming back into the house, so he’s skipping the step where he’s supposed to go pee on the grass first. It could be a substrate preference problem – he wants to pee on grass, and all he can find is snow!

Set your alarm to awaken you 15 minutes earlier than normal, so you can go out with Spot on leash before and after he eats his breakfast to make sure he’s empty when you crate him. If he’s reluctant to out in inclement weather, create a sheltered potty spot, so he doesn’t have to eliminate with rain or snow dumping on his head, or strong winds buffeting him. Would you be able to “do your business” under those conditions?

If he’s determined to go on grass, it’s the dead of winter and there’s no grass available, you may need to scrape snow away from the grass in his sheltered potty spot or provide indoor-grown grass until you can teach him a new substrate preference. Maybe Astroturf would work!

When Your Dog Refuses to Go Into the Crate

puppy housetraining

Dogs who refuse to enter their crates may have never been crate trained, or the crating process was somehow abused. Spot may have been overcrated and now resists entering a den he fears he’ll be forced to soil. Perhaps someone previously used his crate as punishment, or forcibly crated him. He may have had a bad experience in a crate that may have been improperly secured and rolled with him in it, or by having loud noises or other fear-inducing stimuli occur while he was crated.

Teach Your Dog to Love the Crate

Whatever the reason, you’ll need to embark on a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization to change Spot’s association from bad to good, and retrain his crating behavior.

Start by scattering yummy stuff around the outside of his crate, placing a couple of tidbits just inside the door so he can stick his head in to get them. Gradually toss more yummies inside the crate to entice him further in. When he’s going in easily, start handfeeding tidbits while he’s inside, to encourage him to stay in. If you use a clicker, you can now begin to click! and give him a treat for going into the crate.

When he’ll go in and stay calmly inside the crate while you feed treats, close the door gently, feed treats through the door, and then let him out. Gradually increase the length of time you keep the door closed, until he’s quite comfortable with this step. Then take a step away from the crate, click! and return to give him his treat. Continue this process until he is happy to enter and stay in his crate.

You can play another crating game to motivate your dog to “kennel.” Take something scrumptious, like a meaty knucklebone, and put it in the crate. Show it to your dog, then close the door with him outside the crate. Let him spend some time trying to get into the closed crate to get at the bone, then open the door allowing him to zoom in (and back out, if he wants) to claim his prize.

To keep crating fun for your dog, be sure to practice crating games often, not just when he’s going to be crated for extended periods. You can also give him food-stuffed Kongs and other interactive toys to keep him happy in his crate.

If your dog absolutely refuses to enter the crate, get one that comes apart. Take the top off, then start the counter-conditioning process.

Incessant Barking in the Crate

Sometimes barking happens because the dog really needs to go. While it’s critically important to heed your dog’s bathroom calls, it’s equally important not to succumb to crate barking when it’s simply his insistent plea to get out and play, or cuddle. The more often you let him out on demand, the more the behavior is reinforced, and the harder it will be to ever successfully train him to stay quietly in his crate.

Solution to Barking in the Crate

If you’re just starting your dog’s crating lessons, be sure he empties his bowels and bladder before you begin, so you know he doesn’t have to go. Ignore his barking, and let him out of the crate when he’s quiet. At first, he may be quiet for just a few seconds. Mark the quiet with a “Yes!” or a click! so he knows it’s the quiet behavior that gets him out of the crate. Gradually increase the length of quiet time before you let him out.

If your dog has already learned to demand-bark to gain freedom you’ll follow the same procedure as above. However it will take longer to extinguish the behavior because it’s been previously reinforced. Your dog is likely to go through an extinction burst – more and/or louder barking, as he tries to make this formerly successful behavior work again. Be strong; if you give in during an extinction burst you will reinforce your dog for an even more intense behavior, and it will be even harder to make it stop.

At first, listen for and reinforce even very brief pauses in barking. You have to show your dog what behavior will work – quiet – if you want him to offer more of it.

When Your Dog Panics in the Crate

This is very different from demand barking. Some dogs, particularly many of those with separation anxiety (SA), can’t tolerate the close confinement of a crate. They experience a full-blown panic attack, and frantically try to escape from their prison.

A panicked dog’s efforts to escape from his mental and emotional anguish may include hysterical, non-stop barking and howling – for hours and hours without pause; frantic attempts to bite and claw his way out – often breaking teeth and ripping out nails in the process; and stress-induced urination and defecation – which he proceeds to paint all over the walls of his crate as he thrashes around.

Solution to Panicking: Don’t Crate the Dog

You cannot subject a panicked dog to these conditions. You must address the SA problem through behavior modification, and may someday be able to use a crate with your dog, if you are successful in modifying the SA. In the meantime, look for doggie daycare-type management solutions.

When Your Dog Gets Aggressive in the Crate

Some dogs become ferocious in their crates, usually manifesting territorial aggression, fear aggression, or resource guarding. The behavior is alarming, especially to an unsuspecting passer-by – human, canine, feline, or other – who inadvertently walks too close to the crate and is greeted with a fierce roar and crash when the dog lunges into the side of his kennel.

Managing Dog Aggression in Crates

Management is your best approach to this behavior, followed by behavior modification.

Dogs who are aggressive in their crates shouldn’t be subjected to environments in which the behavior is constantly triggered. These dogs should not, for example, be left crated and unattended at canine sporting events. If children are in the household, they must not be allowed to approach Spot in his crate.

Some dogs will crate calmly if the crate is covered to reduce the stimuli that triggers their aggression. Others do well as long as there’s nothing of high-value to be guarded in the crate, such as a favorite toy or stuffed Kong.

If Spot is fearful, taking refuge in his crate out of fear, be sure to do nothing to intimidate him while he’s crated. No reaching in, for example, to remove bowls, toys, or dog from crate. You may do better to refrain from crating a fearful dog until he’s become more confident with you, to avoid setting him up for crate aggression.

To modify crate aggression, return to your old friends, counter-conditioning and desensitization. If your dog is aggressive to passers-by, arm yourself with a large supply of high-value treats (canned chicken, rinsed and drained, works well), and sit next to the crate. When your dog alerts to a member of the trigger species (whether it is dog or human) passing at a noticeable but low-arousal distance, begin feeding him treats, non-stop, until that someone is gone. Each time the trigger appears, wait for your dog to notice, then start feeding him tiny tidbits of chicken, non-stop, until the trigger is gone.

Keep watching your dog’s reaction. You’re looking for his response to the appearance of the trigger to change from wary or alert to “Yay! Where’s my chicken!” When you get the latter reaction consistently, move the trigger closer and repeat the lessons, until the trigger can pass next to the crate.

dog loves crate

If your approach triggers an aggression response, do lots of practice sessions where you walk up to the crate and drop chicken into it, so your dog learns to associate your approach with good stuff. Never punish your dog for being aggressive in his crate – you’re likely to make the behavior worse!

The Best Kinds of Crates

Some dogs crate best in wire crates, others seem to prefer the plastic airline-style kennels. Portable, collapsible soft crates have become hugely popular. Some owners only crate through the puppy stage, others use crates throughout their dogs’ entire lives. Both are acceptable.

Despite the potential for crating woes with some dogs, I remain a staunch fan of this invaluable management tool. We can educate owners about proper crate use to avoid overcrating and other abuses. The crate is so useful, it distresses me to hear that some well-meaning shelter folks have such a low opinion of it. Let’s not throw the puppy out with the bath water!

Pat Miller, CPDT, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog

The Male Dog’s Reproductive System

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by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD The reproductive system has what seems to be a relatively simple task: to provide the mechanisms necessary to maintain survival of the species. However, the mechanisms involved are complex, and maintaining a functional balance of the hormonal, mechanical, and physiological requirements for reproductive success can be difficult at best. What’s more, while dogs (and for that matter, all animals) are hard-wired to maintain reproductive viability at all costs, very small alterations in the balance of any one of the functions involved with reproduction can produce profound results throughout the body. This month, we’ll examine the male reproductive anatomy and physiology, and deal with the female next month. Anatomy The scrotum is the pouch of lightly haired skin that contains the paired testes and their attached epididymides. The testes are the functional units that generate the production of sperm; they also contain cells that produce a variety of hormones. The reproductive “plumbing” begins with the seminiferous tubules, which coil throughout the interstitial tissues of the testes. Each seminiferous tubule empties into an epididymis, which, in turn, empties into a vas deferens, which in turn opens into the urethra. The primary function of the testes is to produce the male gametes or sperma-tozoa; this process is termed spermatogenesis and takes from 55 to 70 days in the dog. The exact timing of testicular descent into the scrotum has not been established, likely due to the small size of neonates, the softness of immature testes, and the tendency of the cremaster muscle to hold immature gonads in the inguinal region. In one study of Beagles and mixed-breed dogs, the testicles were in their final scrotal position at seven weeks of age. In another study (of German Short-Haired Pointers) there was a correlation between the time of passage of testes through the inguinal canal and completion of deciduous dentition – they both occurred at about 30 to 35 days of age. Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchidism results if one or both testes remain within the abdomen after closure of the inguinal canal. The penis develops from the same embryologic tissue as does the female’s clitoris, and the testes are derived from the embryologic tissue that produces the female ovaries. Development into male or female depends on the presence of the Y chromosome, which fosters the production of testosterone, thus promoting the development of the male sexual characteristics. In the male canine embryo, the mesenchymal tissue inside the glans penis ossifies to form a bony os penis. The penis of the adult dog is composed of the proximal body and the distal glans penis, which includes the bulbus glandis and the pars longa glandis. The bulbus glandis is a cavernous expansion of the corpus cavernosum urethrae. It surrounds the proximal portion of the os penis, and when it fills with blood during erection, it expands into a bulb-like structure that is held within the female’s vagina during copulation. Disorders of the male canine reproductive system There are several disorders of the canine male reproductive tract that deserve mention. They can be categorized into congenital defects, acquired disorders, neoplasias, and functional disorders. Congenital defects of the penis are relatively rare, but include the following: • Penile hypoplasia (incomplete or underdevelopment), usually due to aberrations of the XY chromosomes. • Hypospadia, a defect that results in an abnormal location of the urethral orifice. • Persistent penile frenulum. Normal separation of the glans penis from preputial epithelial cells occurs before birth. If it doesn’t, a tag of skin that restricts movement may cause the penis to deviate. • Congenital preputial stenosis (a narrowing of a duct or canal) often occurs with concurrent phimosis (entrapment of the penis within the prepuce). Cryptorchidism is a congenital condition in which the testes fail to descend into the scrotum. The condition may be bilateral or unilateral (75 percent of the cases are unilateral). It is considered the most common reproductive disorder in dogs, affecting between 1 to 15 percent of dogs, and it is inherited as a sex-limited autosomal recessive trait. Since cryptorchid testes have a much greater risk (6- to 13-fold) for developing Sertoli cell tumors compared to normal testes, and since the trait is inherited, bilateral castration is recommended, even in cases of unilateral cryptorchidism. Acquired disorders include: • Injury/contusion to either the penis or testicles, perhaps as a result of fighting or failure to jump cleanly over a fence. • Fracture of the os penis, again from trauma or as a result of a breeding accident. • Balanoposthitis, inflammation of the glans penis and prepuce, generally from a bacterial infection. • Paraphimosis, a failure of the glans penis to retract normally into the prepuce. • Inflammation or infection of the testes is termed orchitis; epididymitis or inflammation of the epididymis may also occur. Either of these can be caused by any number of bacteria. Of particular interest is brucellosis, an infection that causes resorption of the fetuses early in gestation or sudden abortion during the last trimester of pregnancy. Caused by the Brucella canis organism (or occasionally by B. abortus, B. suis, or B. melitensis), it is a highly contagious disease that can spread rapidly through a kennel by contact with infected fetuses, vaginal discharge, or occasionally by venereal means. Infected male dogs may develop generalized swellings of the lymph nodes, and they frequently show signs of a painful orchitis, epididymitis, or prostatitis. Neoplasias of the penis run the gamut of common types of tumors seen at other body sites, and, except for transmissible venereal tumors (TVTs), they usually occur in older dogs, beginning at around 10 years of age or older. TVTs generally occur in younger dogs since they are transmitted at coitus. TVTs grow, invade, and metastasize most widely in an immune-compromised individual, so immune-supportive therapy is indicated as a part of any holistic protocol for treating them. Tumors of the canine testes are the second most common neoplasm affecting the male dog, representing about 5 to 15 percent of diagnosed tumors. Tumors may develop in any of the tissue types that occur in the testes, but the most common tumors involve the germ cells (seminomas) and tumors of the Leydig and Sertoli cells. Dogs with undescended testicles (cryptorchid) are much more likely to develop testicular tumors, specifically Sertoli cell tumors and seminomas, than are normal dogs. Testicular tumors may be asymptomatic; many occur as a difficult-to-palpate, discrete mass within the testis. Most do not grow rapidly nor metastasize to other body sites. Some (slightly more than half of all) Sertoli cell tumors result in a feminization syndrome as a result of the production of estrogenic steroids by the tumor tissue. The feminization syndrome may cause significant dermatologic changes such as hair loss without itching and hyperpigmentation; behavior changes may also be noted. Seminomas may be associated with other clinical problems such as prostate disease, alopecia, perineal hernia, and other tumors (especially perianal gland adenomas). Prostatic tumors include adenomas, which are generally benign, and adenocarcinomas, which can be quite difficult to treat since they tend to metastasize to other tissues rapidly and because complete surgical excision is rarely possible. Tumors are treated via Western medicine by the usual means: surgical excision, and/or some form of chemo- or radiation-therapy. Alternative therapies for tumors of any type include homeopathy or acupuncture; nutritional supplements and herbal remedies may be included to support the primary therapy of choice. Functional disorders Failure to achieve an erection is a fairly common functional disorder of the male dog. Reasons for this condition include: • The female is not at the receptive stage of heat (this is the most common cause). • Pain (from prostatitis, for example, or arthritis or other conditions of the hips, legs, or lower back), which prevents mounting of the female. • Fear/anxiety about the female or the breeding environment. • Drugs that have anti-androgen activity – for example, ketaconazole, a commonly used drug for treating fungal infections. • Priapism, which is a persistent erection in the absence of sexual stimulus, is occasionally seen in dogs with spinal lesions. Rarely, it occurs due to thrombo-embolism of penile vasculature. This condition differs from the frequent erections seen in young excitable small breed dogs, which respond to behavioral modification, castration, and/or progestin therapy. Prostate problems The prostate, an accessory sex gland in the male dog, is located just caudal to the bladder in the area of the bladder neck and proximal urethra. It encircles the urethra and has several ducts that enter the urethra throughout its circumference. It produces prostatic fluid, which acts as a transport and support medium for sperm during ejaculation. The prostate increases in weight with age until it reaches its normal size; it then stabilizes through adulthood until it begins to grow again in aged animals. However, if the dog is castrated before sexual maturity, normal growth of the prostate is completely inhibited. If the dog is castrated as an adult, the gland will decrease in size to about 20 percent of its normal adult size. Some practitioners refer to age-related prostatic weight increase as benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH), a condition commonly seen in aged humans. In contrast to human males, however, the uncastrated dog’s prostatic enlargement usually does not cause dysuria (difficulty in urination) due to urethral obstruction; the dog’s prostrate tends to enlarge outward, away from the urethra. Treatment may be required only if the enlarged prostate causes abnormal signs such as dysuria or straining when defecating. Other diseases of the prostate are fairly common, especially in the older dog, and may lead to fertility problems. In the aging dog, fluid cysts may develop in association with age-related hyperplasia. Urinary incontinence True incontinence (involuntary urine leakage) must be differentiated from behavioral urinary issues such as lack of housetraining, submissive urination, territorial marking, or senile loss of housetraining due to canine cognitive dysfunction. There are several causes of incontinence, including excessive water consumption; infection of the urinary tract or bladder stones (either of which can cause irritation and stimulate the “need to pee” feeling); spinal cord irritation; weak bladder sphincter; and several diseases, including diabetes mellitus and diabetes insipidus, Cushings syndrome, and kidney failure. Western medicine treatments have included hormone therapy, alpha-adrenergic agonists, anticholinergics, and surgery. All of these except the anticholinergics work by attempting to restore neuromuscular control and tone to the bladder sphincter. The anticholinergics work by relaxing the bladder’s muscle fibers, thus facilitating urine storage. All of these treatments (with the excep-tion of surgery, which has not been very successful without additional medications) have proven to be fairly effective. The problem is, all the medications listed above may cause severe side effects, and some have been removed from the market. Both phenylpropanolamine, the popular alpha-adrenergic agent, and diethylstilbestrol (an estrogen), are now available from special pharmacy compounding outlets. My choice for treating urinary incontinence is to first of all perform a chiropractic evaluation and adjustment if indicated. Many patients respond to this initial treatment, and periodic adjustments seem to keep their spinal cord fit enough to allow for urine retention. If indicated, I also add acupuncture treatments for their ability to help enhance the balance of hormones throughout the body, as well as for their ability to treat spinal or other inflammatory conditions that might exist. There are also several herbal remedies that have been especially developed to help with treatment of this condition, and in my mind the idea of treating all castrated individuals with herbs that contain steroidal precursors warrants further study. In any event, only after I’ve tried all the alternatives am I tempted to resort to Western medicine drugs. Fertility evaluation There are several ways to evaluate the functional capacity or breeding soundness of the male dog, including observation of sexual behavior (libido), general health, soundness of rear quarters, spermatogenic capacity, and functional evaluations of other, associated organ systems. Daily spermatozoa production is highly correlated with testicular weight and this latter highly correlated with scrotal width. Scrotal widths are measured with calipers. The ejaculate should be evaluated for sperm count, motility, and morphology. Frequency of ejaculate does not affect daily sperm production, but it depletes the sperm reserves contained in the epididymis. Thus, when high sperm concentrations are desired (for example, when sperm are being collected for preservation), the number of sperm is maximized by having the dog ejaculate only at four- to five-day intervals. Healthy animals have a high percentage of sperm that are actively and rapidly swimming in a freshly collected sample. Sperm morphology is evaluated by staining the cells and observing them under a microscope. Stained slides may also reveal the abnormal presence of high numbers of bacteria, white blood cells, or red blood cells. At least 75 percent of the sperm cells should be morphologically normal. Sometimes, fertility evaluations include an examination of the bacteria that resides in the prepuce and distal penile urethra of the male. However, even perfectly healthy and fertile dogs have a normal population of bacteria in those locations. There are often at least three or four different species of bacteria found. On the other hand, some studies indicate that a high bacterial count, especially if there are high numbers of gram negative bacteria along with large numbers of white blood cells, indicates infection. If total numbers of bacteria are high, rule out infection as a potential cause of infertility. Outside factors Poor thyroid function is known to adversely affect libido and breeding soundness in animals, and other organ systems will likely be shown in the future to have intimate connections to the reproductive system. A complete breeding soundness exam will certainly include an evaluation of thyroid function, and an evaluation of other organ systems may also be indicated. Recently, there has been much to-do about estrogenic factors in the environment – airborne “sexual toxins” such as pesticides, herbicides, and manufacturing by-products of plastic production. This news is worth following. Some final breeding hints: • Be certain the dog has reached puberty. • The dog’s libido and efficiency will increase with age and experience – at least, until the onset of old age problems. • Be certain that the female is truly in standing heat. To be sure, use a combination of hormonal, cytological, endoscopic, and behavioral evaluations for the female. • Wherever possible, stay out of the way and let nature take its course. The second most common cause of breeding failure is well-meaning folks who feel the need to interfere and thus disrupt the “ambiance” necessary for good reproductive contact. • Realize that sometimes the mating was simply not meant to be. Sometimes, for whatever the reason, the couple may not be attracted to each other, and they may never be able to “hit it off.” Alternative treatments I think acupuncture and chiropractic are essential when treating at least two conditions of the reproductive system: incontinence and breeding soundness. I’ve had very good results in some (but certainly not all) cases of urinary incontinence using chiropractic adjustments alone or in combination with acupuncture. The typical animal who will benefit from chiropractic adjustments will have a palpable subluxation somewhere between T-12 and L-3. Acupuncture and chiropractic have also cured many an animal from “infertility” that was caused by pain in their hindquarters. Acupuncture has been shown to enhance sperm production, libido, and overall vitality. Herbal remedies offer a good alternative way to treat bacterial infections. Antibiotic herbs such as goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis) and Oregon grape root (Berberis aquifolium), and immune-stimulating herbs such as echinacea (Echinacea spp.) apply here. In addition, I think it is healthy to support male hormone production after an animal is castrated, even though I realize this is controversial. The major controversy seems to be that the phyto-hormones are not actually hormones, but rather, precursors to hormones. Those stuck on a biochemical paradigm say that only preordained amounts of the biochemical will be effective. I happen to like the herbal remedies because they are precursors of the steroidal hormones; I like the idea that the animal’s body can select the precursor it needs along with the amount it needs. To my way of thinking, this way of supplying a hormone has the best chance for being applied in a healthy manner by the dog’s own systems, and it has the least chance to interfere with the intricate feedback methods already in place in the body. Some plants that provide anabolic steroidal precursors include wild yam (Dioscorea villosa), sarsaparilla (Smilax officinalis), licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), damiana (Turnera aphrodisiaca), and saw palmetto (Serenoa serrulata). Check with an herbalist experienced with using herbs for treating animals for proper dosages and delivery methods. Also With This Article Click here to view “To Neuter or Not to Neuter Your Dog, That Is the Question” Click here to view “New Reasons to Spay, Neuter” -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of “Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care” and “Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care”.

What Is Holistic Dog Care?

Bart, a two-year-old Husky in Palm Desert, California, licks his paws incessantly and is always itchy. This morning he also vomited. Not in the easy-to-clean patio, but in the middle of the kitchen floor.

“At least it wasn’t on the sofa this time,” mumbles Linda, his guardian, as she rummages beneath the sink for a bottle of household spray cleaner. Finally she finds it – the good stuff – the same brand that her mom used when she was a kid. She cleans up the mess and gives the spot an extra squirt and a light wipe, leaving the spot a little wet to assure an extra measure of disinfectant action.

In the living room Bart is still chewing. Linda looks at his paws and sees that they are raw and scabby between the toes. As she strokes his coat she notices a strange lump on his front leg. It wasn’t there before.

“This isn’t just fleas,” she thinks to herself. “It can’t be! I just had the entire yard sprayed last week. Besides, it has been too darned hot to leave him in the yard much, and he hasn’t had a flea on him since he got his spot-on flea remedy last month.”

Linda figures that it isn’t food allergy, either. She spends a lot of money on his dog food – the best natural recipe kibble she can get at the health food store. Sometimes Bart even eats home-cooked food, and he gets essential fatty acids, digestive enzymes, and a vitamin supplement with each meal. And as if that isn’t enough, Bart also gets twice daily doses of a dandelion/milk thistle herb tincture product that the holistic vet said is supposed to support Bart’s liver and help his body detoxify.

But his problems aren’t improving, and Linda is becoming discouraged. She lights her last cigarette and sits down by Bart’s bed. “Is this whole natural pet care thing just nonsense? Am I getting ripped off?” she wonders.

Incomplete understanding
Bart and Linda’s dilemma is not unique. Several thousand other people will likely become discouraged each year by disappointing results from the natural products they buy and use. Many will abandon their pursuit of animal wellness altogether, returning to old ways of feeding bargain- basement foods and spending huge amounts of money on symptomatic treatment of their dogs’ chronic disease.

Is it because most natural remedies don’t work? Is it because natural-recipe foods are a waste of money?

Certainly not.

Indeed, there are some misleading label claims out there, and there are too many junk products in the natural pet marketplace these days. But unscrupulous manufacturers of these products are not to blame for their failures.

In the case of Linda and many other holistically inclined dog lovers, failures in achieving desirable results do not rest with the foods, supplements, or holistic vet services they use, but with the mindset from which these products are used.

Bart’s problems stem largely from what his caregiver has not considered. The fact is, Bart is well-nourished, and the herbs he gets probably are supporting his liver and helping to move toxins out of his body – but Linda isn’t looking at the bigger picture, and his health may never improve until she does.

Bart’s feet may be covered with sores because he is allergic to the organophos-phate pesticides Linda sprays on the back lawn. Even worse, these organophosphates have been linked to non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, a type of cancer that has been on the rise in both humans and animals in recent years.

Or it may be the household cleaner she uses, which may harm Bart’s liver as he licks it from his feet every day. It may even lead to cancer.

Then there’s the spot-on flea pesticide she uses on him, a product that most people believe to be totally safe. Indeed, the manufacturer’s own research says the product is toxic only to sucking insects and other invertebrates, and therefore it is safe for dogs. What the manufacturer didn’t tell Linda or her veterinarian is that studies also show that the active ingredient in the product is a potential neurotoxin to mammals – after it is licked from the skin and ingested.

Nor was she told about the studies that suggest that long-term, recurrent use of the pesticide may cause chromosomal deformity (genetic disease) and thyroid disease. The fact is, nobody told Linda that most if not all of the spot-on flea killers haven’t been studied enough to accurately predict what their long-term health effects are. Obviously, the manufacturers who are making millions off of the product aren’t in a big rush to find out and tell people.

Then there is Linda’s smoking habit. Secondhand smoke kills people, and there is no reason to think that it is any less harmful to dogs. In fact, since dogs age at a much more accelerated rate than we do, it is reasonable to think that their bodies may succumb to the effects of secondhand cigarette smoke more quickly than ours.

So, is Linda wasting time and money on premium food and supplements? Not en-tirely; good nutrition and systemic support are always important. But Bart is not going to enjoy the full results of her efforts until she takes a hard look at the bigger picture. And that bigger picture includes Linda’s lifestyle.

Holism can’t be done halfway
The value of natural diets and supplements cannot be fully realized until the human caregiver is willing to adopt a holistic life-style. Likewise, no course of natural canine therapy can be entirely effective unless all elements of wellness are first considered.

The word “natural” on a product label may lead some people to think that the product must be safer and deeper in its therapeutic or nutritional values, but the truth is that all this word really suggests is the possibility of greater purity and superior quality. Even cream-of-the-crop products that really are made with all-natural ingredients cannot guarantee any greater levels of efficacy over conventional alternatives unless they are used as part of a holistic agenda that factors all elements of physical, emotional, and environmental health into the wellness equation.

My intent is not to question the love, conviction, or intelligence of any of my readers, nor to denigrate anyone like Linda. But I remind you that we are all prone to becoming complacent when it comes to managing the health of our dogs. We are also prone to seeking out and getting what pleases us, even if it isn’t in the best interests of those around us. Like Bart, the non-complaining Husky who has been raised in a small apartment, in the hot, arid climate of Palm Desert, California. What was Linda thinking?

Even though my work and lifestyle immerses me in the world of holistic animal care each and every day, I, too, catch myself reaching for a quick fix at times when I should be looking deeper into my dogs’ health issues. Just last week I caught myself giving Willow, my Shepherd-cross, an herbal breath formula without first checking her teeth and gums. I was busy, and it was two days before I remembered to examine her mouth carefully, to eliminate an oral infection as the cause of her bad breath.

Loving someone is not always easy. And caring for someone holistically is not an easy job – especially when that someone is not human. And although it’s great to include our dogs as members of our families, it is important to remember that they are really not like us at all. Sure, we can give them human names, dress them in silly clothes, give them fancy haircuts, and feed them foods that are packaged to appeal to human sight and smell – but we must always remember that their health is highly dependent on how well we are able to respect and honor the “ways of dogs.” The family dog, after all, is still an animal by nature.

What I am saying may sound simple, but it’s not. To accept and fulfil a dog’s needs, we must put our human tendencies aside long enough to stop catering to our needs for conveniences and consider the effects of our own, human condition.

Diet as an example
Diet presents us with a perfect example of my point.

Dogs need foods that are fit for them, not necessarily for us. It is common practice for pet food manufacturers to draw consumers to their products by the way their products are packaged, how the product looks, smells, and even tastes to humans (believe it or not, some companies even use human taste testers).

But this does not diminish the reality of what dogs need: muscle and organ meats, connective tissues, raw bones, and even an occasional snack of pre-digested vegetable matter (dogs sometimes eat grass and other things twice, to improve digestion). Which brings us to raw food – many people will not feed it to their dogs simply because they (humans) find it too repulsive. The dog may not think it’s repulsive, and he doesn’t care about the shape or color of his kibble, either.

Consider negative influences
Thinking holistically also means going places within the human mind where we really don’t like to go – places where we are forced to consider the consequences of our actions and reassess the impacts of our bad habits. In this uncomfortable place we are forced by our love to consider aspects of our own behavior that may contribute to the misery of our dogs. Loud music, angry arguments, cars with exhaust leaks, loud vehicles, new carpets and linoleum (toxic gassing), fresh paint, wood smoke, fireworks, or even a box of dark chocolates left out on the coffee table may contribute to our dogs’ stress and increase risk of illness.

Then there are issues of unnecessary and/or over-vaccination, prophylactic use of antibiotics, tail docking, and ear cropping – things we would never do to our human children, but often will not think twice about when it comes to our beloved pooches.

Indeed, moving toward adopting a completely holistic lifestyle can be difficult – but it’s what true love and true healing are all about, isn’t it?

Letters: 05/05

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Report all adverse effects
Thank you for alerting owners to facts regarding veterinary drug safety in “The FDA, Drugs, and Your Dog,” (WDJ February 2005). Because of numerous documented canine deaths and serious illnesses secondary to administration of certain drugs, efforts are under way to promote stronger regulatory programs for veterinary drug evaluation, approval, and monitoring.

For these reasons, it is vital that any and all suspected adverse reactions to veterinary drugs be reported to the FDA. Cumulative data over many months may substantiate earlier reports and may also identify formerly undetected problems such as the recently identified link between NSAIDs and heart problems in humans. Reports should be made to FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine at (888) FDA-VETS, and can be filed by owners as well as veterinarians.

Veterinary NSAIDs can provide great relief from pain and discomfort in dogs. However, side effects are not rare, and can include gastrointestinal injury, kidney or liver damage, hematological (blood) changes, neurological effects, and others, including death. At the first sign of changes in appetite, water consumption, or behavior, or of vomiting, diarrhea (with or without blood), weakness, or any other alteration from baseline “normal” for an animal, it is important that owners contact their veterinarian, an emergency facility, or the drug’s manufacturer. Even minor appetite changes can signal rapidly developing gastric ulceration, for example, so quick action is essential. You should be instructed to stop giving the drug until necessary testing and/or treatment is undertaken.

The FDA has directed that the manufacturers of some veterinary drugs, particularly NSAIDs, provide a “Client Information Sheet” (CIS), outlining which animals are appropriate candidates for receiving the drug, side effects to watch for vigilantly, and appropriate steps to take should they occur. Unfortunately, many veterinarians do not provide these to clients when dispensing these drugs, as manufacturers recommend. Clients should ask if a CIS is available when receiving medication for their dogs, and request one if it is.

Dogs cannot tell us how they feel when given a drug, nor do they control whether to take the medicine. For these reasons, dispensing drugs for dogs is similar to dispensing them for children; vets need to fill the role of “pharmacist” by thoroughly instructing owners regarding potential side effects and steps to take if they are observed.

Owners, the only ones present outside the veterinary clinic to observe and report potential problems, need to function as part of the “team” overseeing the care of their animals. To do this, they must be educated about any drug dispensed. This education should come from their vet. If it does not, they need to investigate further on their own.

We all want the same thing for our dogs: comfort, well-being, and safety. This supports the urgent call for heightened regulatory vigilance regarding veterinary drug safety. I also hope to see an increasing “partnership in knowledge” between those who dedicate their professional lives to caring for our beloved animals, and the owners who entrust them to their care.

Kathy Davieds, DVM
Floyd, VA

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Even though I have been a subscriber for many years and a believer in alternative medicine, I took my 14-year-old Lhasa-mix to my veterinarian because he had started limping on his back leg – the same leg that had ACL surgery two years previously.

Up until he started limping, Choo Choo was an active, happy dog who loved walks in the park. My vet prescribed Deramaxx, which I dutifully gave my dog. I attributed his lack of appetite and lethargy to his bad leg and depression. When he had a bout of diarrhea, I didn’t worry because he sometimes had a sensitive stomach. Then one morning, he woke me by coughing and struggling for breath. I rushed him to an emergency clinic where they tried to save him, but my little dog died.

Afterward, I got on the Internet and investigated Deramaxx, and found I wasn’t the only pet owner whose dog died under similar cirumstances. My vet doesn’t hand out medications – a technician does. The medications are sometimes presented in a vial but mostly they are in an envelope. There is no information given on possible side effects or what symptoms to watch for. When I questioned my vet on this, he said if he gave that information out, people wouldn’t give drugs to their pets.

The drug’s manufacturer, Novartis, sent out warning letters to veterinarians regarding prescribing Deramaxx to senior pets. They recommended doing blood tests prior to administering the drug and warning clients of possible side effects. Was any of this told to me? No. All my vet said was that he gave the drug to his dog, and if he thought it was harmful, would he continue to do so?

It’s obvious that doctors, both animal and human, believe whatever the pharmaceutical companies report on their drugs because that’s how they were trained. Most know nothing about alternative treatments and are not interested in learning, either.

I will always blame myself for my dog’s death by not stopping the treatment sooner. Had I known the side effects of Deramaxx, I would never have given it to my dog. I will never again be so ignorant with the health of my other dogs.

Name withheld by request

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Go gluten-free
I read “Going Gluten-Free” (WDJ March 2005) with great interest. Dr. John Symes advises your readers with dogs – all dogs, not just those that show symptoms of poor digestion – to choose gluten-free foods that do not contain wheat, barley, rye, soy, corn, and rice. As such, it occurred to me that your readers may be interested in learning more about new Innova EVO, a grain-free, low-carb dry food that fits Dr. Symes’ recommendation to a “T.” More information about EVO can be found on www.naturapet.com or by calling (800) 532-7261.

Peter Atkins, Vice President
Natura Pet Products, San Jose, CA

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Wolf diets
In “What a Wolf Eats” (March 2005) the author stated that, “The wolves at the [Wolf Conservation] Center are fed dry dog food and fresh roadkill as it becomes available.”

It is the WCC’s preference to feed the wolves a primary diet of deer and other raw meats and bones. We believe that this is the most appropriate diet, and there is no shortage of road-killed deer here in the Northeast.

However, the WCC is only one facility in a network of 40-plus that participate in the Species Survival Plan (SSP) programs for the critically endangered Mexican gray wolf (Canis lupus baileyi) and the red wolf (Canis rufus). Each of these SSP programs has a management group that publishes the suggested animal husbandry practices for the facilities participating in the program. The management group for each of these species has determined that a dry food for “exotic canines” should be fed to the SSP animals as part of the protocol.

Since we are only one facility in a broader network of organizations working to save these unique animals from extinction, it is our responsibility to honor the rules of the SSP program. To accomplish the objectives of the SSP programs we feed deer carcasses and the dry food to these wolves.

The four Ambassador wolves at the Center that are not part of the SSP program are fed only a raw meat diet consisting of deer as the primary food.

Thank you for the opportunity to clarify this important point.

Barry Braden, Managing Director
Wolf Conservation Center
South Salem, NY

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Pets and PETA
“On Trial,” an article in the April issue about pre-market feeding trials conducted by pet food companies, and PETA’s opposition to these and all other lab testing conducted with dogs and cats by pet food makers, triggered not the most mail we’ve ever received in response to an article, but certainly the most vitriolic. We’re not going to bore you by repeating the attacks. Suffice to say about a dozen people (as of press time, anyway) cancelled their subscriptions to WDJ to let us know how they felt about criticism of the animal rights group.

It was interesting to us, therefore, that the total number of responses were almost evenly balanced, with about half of the letter writers expressing their opposition to PETA, and about half weighing in with unqualified support of the animal rights group. Here are some pro-PETA excerpts:

• “I support PETA in fighting cruelty to animals for any reason. I object to any animal living in a laboratory, regardless of any perceived benefit.”

• “I would like to, effective immediately, unsubscribe from WDJ. I found many of your comments regarding PETA and pet food trials selfish and shortsighted. For example: ‘We believe feeding trials provide information that is beneficial to the dogs that consume the food – our dogs.’ This may come as a shock to you, but I also have concern for other dogs that are not mine, as well as other animals.”

• “I know PETA is a organization with a controversial image. I believe that you should not look at PETA for their media stunts and what you call propaganda. I think that you should question why PETA would waste their money to break down a company that provides food for our companion animals. I do not believe that PETA or any other organization would just attack Iams unless they found something to attack.”

And in the other corner:

• “I am totally against PETA, even though I hate that animals are used in lab testing. There is no way that lab testing using animals is fair to the animals used for testing.”

• “You exhibited a great deal of patience with the PETA group. They are often radical liberals who will seek any opportunity to challenge nearly anything for the sake of advancing their cause. Their goals are notoriety and power; material facts and specific allegations of “cruelty” often take a back seat to those goals.”

• “PETA cares more about triggering emotional responses – and especially, about the financial donations they receive from animal lovers (contributions totaled more than $27 million last year) – than they do about working with industry to effect meaningful change. The improvements for lab dogs they forced Iams to implement seem to mean nothing to them. I give my money to groups that work for animals quietly and effectively, such as the Humane Farming Association.”

PETA, it’s clear, constitutes the third rail of animal journalism. But that’s not what the article was really about! Happily, we also received feedback demonstrating that the article helped some readers learn about feeding trials, so they could make their own decisions about whether to seek or avoid buying foods that conduct these trials:

• “As much as I love my dogs, and as much as I would do anything to protect them, I certainly do not want other dogs to suffer and die in the name of misguided science aimed at helping my dogs …

“Your article did an excellent job of presenting a balanced approach to the issues. Each month I learn quite a bit from WDJ on the subject that is most dear to my heart: my companion dogs. Believe me, there is nothing I appreciate more than solid information on their physical, mental, and emotional well-being.”

Assistance Dogs

Have you ever watched an assistance dog work? On the campus of the Virginia university where I attended graduate school, I often crossed paths with a student who used a wheelchair, accompanied by her assistance dog, a lovely Golden Retriever. They went to classes, visited the snack bars and cafeteria, hung out in the student lounges, and hoofed it all around campus together.

The assistance dog opened doors, picked up dropped items, pressed elevator buttons, and accompanied her owner everywhere. When you approached her owner, the dog looked confidently and calmly right into your eyes. She was the kind of take-anywhere canine companion that any dog lover would be proud to call her own.

What, I wondered, could this assistance dog and her trainers, teach family dogs and their owners about the secrets of her success? How did she become such a solid, confident, and reliable companion? Can ordinary people obtain a go-anywhere canine companion with the steadiness and confident demeanor of an assistance dog? Assistance dog trainers were happy to help me find the answers.

According to Brian Jennings, staff trainer for the Massachusetts-based National Education for Assistance Dog Services (NEADS), creating a great dog takes lots of time and planning.

A compatible candidate
Bringing home the right dog, assistance dog trainers say, makes the task of developing a friendly and reliable canine companion a lot easier. The goal is to seek a type of dog that tends to be constitutionally suited to the sort of environment in which it will be expected to live and work, and to find an individual dog who seems to exhibit the temperament and personality of a dog who will likely enjoy his new home and job.

For assistance dog work, Jennings and NEADS executive director Sheila O’Brien define what kind of dog they look for in each type of assistance dog:

• Service dogs help people with impaired mobility, including those in wheelchairs. Labs and Golden Retrievers whose calm and confident temperaments fit their job requirements often fill this role.

• Guide dogs assist the sight-impaired. More assertive Labs, Goldens, and German Shepherds excel in this mission, where more independent decision-making is required of the dog, who may have to refuse an owner’s command for safety reasons.

• Hearing dogs help the hearing-impaired by recognizing specific sounds, investigating and locating the source of sounds, and alerting their owners to the presence of the sounds. NEADS selects feisty, inquisitive, and persistent mixed-breed dogs, many with terrier or herding breeds in their heritage, for this high-energy work. O’Brien refers to these dogs as “self-made men and women . . . who need a job,” and often selects these dogs as adults from shelters. These dogs take initiative.

• Therapy or social dogs are often released from specific assistance dog programs, but go to live in nursing homes or with families with emotionally disturbed children, acting as facilitators for social interaction and therapy. The best candidates are exceedingly friendly dogs who thrive on lots of physical contact and affection from people, and are temperamentally “sturdy” enough to disregard a bit of strange behavior from the people they meet. These dogs can be from any sort of background – purebred or mutts.

Choosing your family dog
Imagine that you are an assistance dog trainer looking for a dog who will be as perfectly suited as possible to live with a certain family – your family. Think about what your family is like, and what traits a dog should have to succeed in his new job as your family’s dog.

For example, if you’re looking for a dog whose primary “job” will be to provide company for your elderly and not-very-mobile mother, you’ll want to consider types of dogs that don’t require a lot of exercise to be happy or calm, and who thrive on a close relationship with a person. There are a number of breeds, small and large, that excel as affectionate lap-dogs.

If your household is chaotic, with rowdy, active kids running in and out, you should look for a confident, gregarious dog who will cheerfully accept any and all visitors to your home and handle spontaneous eruptions of activity with aplomb. In contrast, dogs who tend to be nervous, sound-sensitive, or shy will have an uphill struggle to simply survive in your home.

In addition to understanding what traits you want in your new dog, you need to know what characteristics you definitely don’t want. If you have cats, birds, rabbits, or other small pets in your home, you definitely don’t want a breed whose predatory (or hunting) instincts are legendary. If your heart’s desire is a dog who will hike with you in the woods unleashed, steer away from scenthounds or sighthounds, whose talents may propel them toward new adventures, but not always with you.

If you are not familiar with the traits commonly associated with certain breeds or breed-mixes, do some homework. Attend a breed show and talk to as many breeders as you can about their dogs’ common personality traits. Tell them about your family and ask if they’d recommend one of their dogs for your household. Responsible breeders won’t hesitate to warn you away from a breed that is unsuited to your life-style; puppy mill-type breeders, of course, will place their puppies in any paying home.

Check out a breed book at your local library and pay attention to the part about the breed profiles that discuss the dogs’ activity levels, propensity for barking or predation, and reputation for trainability. Cross-breeds and mixed-breeds may display traits from all the contributors to their ancestry.

Once you decide on a breed – or if you prefer a mixed-breed dog from a shelter (and good for you!) – look for an individual who has a temperament that suits your family, too. Not all representatives of a certain breed will have equal doses of the breed’s hallmark temperament.

Lydia Wade-Driver, executive director and founder of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Assistance Dogs, says that a few simple interactions with a puppy or adult dog can provide clues about his temperament and personality. Does the dog approach you willingly? Does he enjoy being touched? Does he startle easily? Does he recover quickly after a scary moment? Does he respond to treats and toys? Watch for confidence without aggression, then, “It’s the whole package and a gut feeling,” says Wade-Driver, “That’s what I go by.”

Socialization is critical
Selecting for certain characteristics is only the first step to improving the odds of raising a great family dog. Developing that great dog’s potential after it has joined your family is where the rubber meets the road.

Assistance dog trainers often disagree about the best techniques for training, but the one thing most dog trainers do agree on is this: intense, well-managed socialization is the most important factor in developing a great dog, whether it’s a family pet or an assistance dog.

“Socialization definitely outweighs obedience,” states Kali Kosch, director of training for Assistance Dogs of America in Swanton, Ohio. “I’d rather have a dog who’s very well socialized than one who’s very well obedience-trained. You can do all of the obedience training in the world but, if you have a dog who’s afraid, you’re at a loss,” she says.

Even though the term “socialization” generally implies some interactions with other individuals, a big part of socializing the dog actually has to do with exposing him to inanimate objects and various environments. Assistance dogs are exposed to every mode of transportation imaginable, including cars, buses, airplanes, trains, moving sidewalks, elevators, and escalators. They are taken to noisy stadiums, quiet libraries, busy fairgrounds, deserted parks, industrial areas, and farms. The idea is to expose them to every sort of environment they might ever find themselves in – in a calm, safe manner.

It’s a big job, though, getting your dog out and exposed to a wide variety of people, places, and things. “I try to present the enormity of it to dog owners in a way that doesn’t feel that enormous,” says Elsa Larsen, president of My Wonderful Dog, a service dog training center in Portland, Maine. Larsen utilizes short, daily socialization and training sessions of two to three minutes each, a program most families can emulate.

“You can get a lot into two to three minutes,” says Larsen. Adding up the small increments of training time over the weeks and months makes the job appear larger than life, so she focuses on “eating the elephant” one piece at a time.

Larsen encourages owners to get their dogs out in public regularly, but to carefully manage the process. Proper socialization is not a free-for-all, she says.

Careful management
Jennings starts taking young puppies and adult shelter dogs to “easy places” to meet “easy people.” She defines easy places as quiet locations without crowds, such as banks, libraries, and malls in the morning. Easy people are sympathetic individuals who resemble the assistance dog trainers, or, for pet dogs, people who resemble family members.

The important part is to carefully observe the dog’s reaction to her experiences and environment, and adjust the process accordingly. Watch her body language for signs of stress such as tucking her tail, licking her lips, shaking, withdrawing, yawning, or losing focus. A little dog may respond with a fast heart rate – easy to detect if you are holding her. Start with short visits of no more than two to three minutes each.

Stop when the dog shows any indication of “too much too soon,” but don’t go home yet. Just return to a place where the dog felt comfortable, and allow the dog to regain her composure. Ask for one more “easy” interaction. Then go home. Jennings refers to this process as “habituating” a dog to different environments slowly and carefully, a critical step that family dog owners often neglect.

For instance, if your dog was fine when meeting adults outside the bank, but became agitated when children approached her, give her a quiet moment to rest, then encourage her to meet with a friendly adult or two, then stop for the day. This approach teaches the dog that exhibiting fearful or avoidance behaviors will not release her from a situation completely, but that she will have the opportunity to collect herself before continuing. Of course, lots of treats to reinforce steadiness are the order of the day.

Solid socialization arises from positive exposures to people, places, and other animals. “Negative socialization can do more damage than good,” claims Kosch. The dogs learn to feel safe in lots of places, but planning and constantly adjusting the pace of the program to fit the dog are the keys.

After a couple of weeks, the trainers graduate their dogs to “hard places” and “hard people.” Hard places include supermarket parking lots, city streets, and pet supply shops. Hard people are unlike any the dog has ever met before, and can include boisterous, active children; large, gruff men; heavily perfumed women; or the elderly. Repeat the process. Watch for signs of stress, and back up to the last point of success, if necessary. End on a positive note, with lots of treats. In about 15 trips, Jennings’ dogs show confidence, even in moderately hard places and for more than a few moments.

Most family dogs don’t receive this amount of managed socialization, with a concentration on positive-only experiences at a pace adjusted for the dog. Kosch reminds dog owners that it’s the quality of the socialization, not just the socialization, that’s important. Jennings adds, “Doing it right is a whole lot more important than doing it a lot.”

Focus on you
One of the most noticeable qualities of good assistance dogs is their focus on their handlers, even in strange places. Family trainers can get the same attention from their dogs by using a few simple training techniques.

For instance, Ann Hogg, staff trainer at the St. Francis of Assisi Service Dog Foundation in southwestern Virginia, teaches dogs to make eye contact and sit as a way of asking for permission to interact with a stranger or to get his dinner bowl. All good things originate from an interaction with the handler.

Fully integrated in the family
Another reason that assistance dogs seem to be so bonded with their handlers is because they spend literally their entire days and nights with their handlers. Completely integrating the assistance dog into the daily life of his adoptive handler allows the person to incorporate training into almost every hour of the dog’s daily life.

Both Hogg and St. Francis training director Karen Hough agree that the effectiveness of the training, however, relies on consistency among all members of the dog’s household. Hogg prepares a “vocabulary list” of training words to use with an assistance puppy, which she tapes on her refrigerator door. All of her family members use this specific vocabulary when they interact with the dog.

Hough is never without a treat in the presence of her assistance dog trainees and doesn’t worry about fading out the treats over time. According to Larsen, treats are the one constant in an assistance dog’s life, as he moves from breeder to puppy raiser to skills trainer to owner.

Time commitment

How much time does it take to perform all of this managed socialization and consistent training? Well, it depends how you look at it. At 3 to 5 minutes, a couple of times a day during early training, then adding 15 to 20 minutes a day when obedience and skills training begins, the commitment sounds reasonable, even for busy families.

However, Kosch warns against underestimating the time involved in raising a well-socialized dog, not only for teaching lessons, but also for planning the training program and monitoring its status. According to Larsen, it takes about 20 months to socialize and train an assistance dog. After the dog is placed with his new owner, it takes another year of work to develop into a close-knit, working team – a sizeable investment, to be sure, starting from day one.

Trainers encourage owners to watch their dogs throughout the day. If you do this, your time with your dog will be filled with on-the-spot training opportunities.

Lorie Long is a freelance writer and agility competitor from Virginia.

The Anatomy of the Canine Kidney

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by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Put simply, the function of the kidneys is to make urine, a “waste” product of body metabolism. Of course, there is much more to the kidneys. They are powerful chemical factories that: • Remove waste products, toxins, and drugs from the body • Balance the body’s fluids and help maintain a constant body pH • Release hormones that regulate blood pressure and control the production of red blood cells • Produce an activated form of vitamin D that promotes strong, healthy bones Anatomy and physiology The two kidneys lie against the back abdominal wall, lateral to the spine, in the lumbar region. They are encapsulated organs, shaped somewhat like a kidney bean, and their size varies with the size of the dog. The functional unit of the kidney is the nephron. There are perhaps a million nephrons in each kidney, each one comprised of a glomerulus and a long tubule that eventually empties into the ureter.

The glomerulus is a congregation of blood vessels contained within Bowman’s capsule, and the glomeruli are located in the outer portion of each kidney (cortex). Blood is filtered as it passes through the kidney’s collection of glomeruli. After filtration in the glomeruli, the resulting protein-free fluid is passed into a thin tubule. The proximal tubule descends into the med-ulla of the kidney and then makes a sharp U-turn (at the loop of Henle) to return into the cortex, where it empties into a collecting duct, even-tually exiting via the ureter. The tubules are responsible for secretion of some substances (such as drugs and their by-products, uric acid, fatty acids, and bile salts) and reabsorption of a variety of other permeable solutes, among them glucose, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, urea, and some salts, notably sodium, chloride, and potassium. Urine passes into the bladder where it’s stored until it’s excreted via the urethra. Blood pressure is controlled by a complex interplay of hormones. In response to decreased blood pressure (as a consequence of chronic congestive heart failure or CHF, for example) the kidneys release renin. This is a proteolytic enzyme that acts on liver-produced angiotensinogen, which is converted to angiotensin I and then to angiotensin II. Angiotensin II causes retention of sodium and water, in part through stimulation of the synthesis and release of aldosterone by the adrenal cortex. Angiotensin II also causes vasoconstriction, thus increasing vascular resistance. Vasoconstriction and water retention place further stress on the already compromised heart muscles, and ultimately these conditions may also damage the kidney’s nephrons. Thus, angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitors are widely used in treating CHF in dogs, and many practitioners include them for the treatment of kidney disease. The maintenance of the body’s overall acid/base balance also relies on a complex mechanism that depends on adequate respiratory and digestive function as well as kidney mechanisms. The kidney’s role in keeping the body’s pH within a healthy range is related to balancing the potassium and hydrogen ion retention and depletion and is especially important during hypoxia (when the animal is not receiving enough oxygen, either from poor respiratory function and/or a diminished supply of red blood cells). The kidney is both the sensor organ and the major site for the production of erythropoietin, the hormone that regulates production of red blood cells. Chronic renal failure is thus typically accompanied with a mild to moderate anemia. Bone health is reliant upon healthy kidneys in at least two ways. First, vitamin D is necessary for the utilization of calcium, and the activated form of vitamin D is produced in the kidney. Second, normal kidneys excrete phosphorous; chronic renal failure may lead to excessive retention of phosphorous, which in turn causes an imbalance between calcium and phosphorous. Vitamin D must be metabolically activated (via hydroxylation in the liver and kidney) before it can function physiologically; the conversion in the kidneys is the rate-limiting step in vitamin D metabolism. Occasionally the imbalance of calcium to phosphorous seen with increased retention of phosphorous may create a decreased amount of circulating calcium. Parathyroid gland hyperplasia occurs (to maintain serum calcium in normal ranges), and the resultant high parathyroid hormone (PTH) concentrations result in increased bone resorption, which ultimately creates thinning of the bone. Note here that the major contributor to the softening of the bones is an imbalance between calcium and phosphorous levels in the body. Rarely, the opposite of the above condition (hypercalcemia) occurs with renal disease, but the pathogenesis of this condition is unknown. Note also that calcium metabolism is involved with bladder and kidney stone formation, which often makes for complicated therapeutic decisions whenever we need to treat kidney disease. Notes about renal disease Renal disease refers to the presence of morphologic or functional lesions in one or both kidneys, regardless of extent. Renal failure refers to the retention of nitrogenous waste products of protein metabolism, regardless of the cause. Renal insufficiency is a term that has been used to describe a state of reduced renal function that has not yet resulted in retention of nitrogenous waste products. Azotemia (from the Greek azote, meaning “nitrogen”) is defined as an excess of urea or other nitrogenous compounds in the blood. You may also hear the term “uremia” used to replace azotemia, but uremia has now come to refer to the entire constellation of signs and symptoms of chronic renal failure: nausea, vomiting, anorexia, uremic odor of breath, pruritus (itchy skin), neuromuscular disorders, pain and twitching of muscles, hypertension, edema, mental confusion, and acid-base and electrolyte imbalances. Typical causes of azotemia are classified by their location: prerenal, from diminished blood flow into the kidneys; post-renal, usually due to a blockage of the “outflow vessels” (ureters or urethra); and renal disease that can be caused by a lack of proper function of any of the components of the nephron (the glomerulus or tubules), or it can be caused by conditions affecting the tissues between nephrons. Finally, to help determine treatment, practitioners also like to know if the disease is acute or chronic, and if it appears to be progressive or nonprogressive. Diagnosis of urinary disease Noticeable symptoms and signs of urinary system disease will, of course, vary with the disease and its severity, but the following general symptoms should make you suspicious of urinary system disease. Dysuria, that is, any abnormality of urination, including polyuria (passage of large amounts of urine in a given period), may be the animal’s attempt to compensate for diminished functional capacity of the kidneys, and it is often associated with polydipsia or chronic excessive thirst. Hematuria indicates the presence of blood in the urine and may be due to renal calculi, trauma, or destruction of the red blood cells within the body (this latter condition is more correctly referred to as hemoglobinuria). Oliguria (from the Greek oligos, meaning little or few) describes the secretion of a diminished amount of urine in relation to the fluid intake, and stranguria (from the Greek stranx, meaning “drop”) describes slow and painful discharge of urine, due to spasms of the urethra and bladder. Anuria is defined as the complete suppression of urinary secretion by the kidneys. It is an emergency condition whenever urine flow has ceased, whether due to kidney shut down (shock, for example) or blockage of the outflow vessels of the urinary tract (stones). See your veterinarian immediately. If renal disease proceeds to chronic renal failure, uremia results, and (as mentioned above) uremia produces an entire constellation of signs and symptoms. Other symptoms, seemingly unrelated to the kidneys, may occur with chronic renal failure: pulmonary edema and coughing, bone conditions related to softening of the boney mass, heart conditions related to improper control of blood pressure, and symptoms related to anemia such as difficulty breathing, exercise intolerance, restlessness, etc. Symptoms, even those that become evident when specific diagnostic aids such as urinalysis and blood chemistries are employed, may not occur until a very high percentage of the nephrons are not functioning properly. Perhaps as many as 70 percent or more may need to be dysfunctional before specific symptoms are detected. Urinalysis The primary diagnostic aid for kidney disease, a typical urinalysis includes the urine’s specific gravity, its pH, and the presence of abnormal amounts of substances such as protein, glucose, and creatinine. Important findings in the urinary sediment include red or white blood cells, crystals, bacteria, or other organisms such as yeasts. A functional kidney is able to concentrate (or dilute) urine to a specific gravity that is different from that of the blood plasma (circulating blood plasma has a specific gravity of 1.010 + 2); kidney disease is diagnosed when the urine specific gravity remains at 1.010 + 2, regardless of the dog’s state of hydration. Normal pH of the carnivorous animal’s urine is acid (below pH of 7), and it typically becomes more basic with bacterial infections. The consistent presence of glucose in the urine (glucosuria) indicates the likelihood of diabetes mellitus. The presence of cells or microorganisms in the sediment are indicators of infection or inflammation. Moderate amounts of protein in the urine signify that there is a “leak” in the glomerular filtration system, that the kidneys are unable to retain proteins in the bloodstream. See “Urine Luck” (February 2004) for more information on urinalysis. Blood tests Blood chemistry tests can also help diagnose some urine system dysfunctions. Renal excretion of urea is accomplished by glomerular filtration. Urea is also reabsorbed passively in the renal tubules, which means that its blood levels will increase whenever there are slower tubular flow rates – during dehydration or blood volume depletion, for example. So, one important result of the blood chemistry test examines the blood urea nitrogen (BUN) levels. Creatinine, a product of the normal metabolism of muscles, is excreted by the kidneys by glomerular filtration. Non-renal variables, such as excessive muscular activity, muscle necrosis, and possibly ingestion of a meal of cooked meats, may have a small and transient effect on the blood creatinine level, but it is still considered a good indicator for glomerular function. Creatinine and BUN assays offer an indirect measurement of the glomerular filtration rate (GFR), which in turn is a good assessment for the overall functional capacity of the glomeruli. Phosphorous retention results from declining function of the glomerulus, and blood phosphorous levels may be extremely high with chronic renal disease. Blood albumin levels may also be low due to inadequate retention of proteins, and the decreased levels of protein may lead to edema and/or malnourishment. A mild anemia often occurs with severe kidney disease (due to improper production of erythropoietin). Elevated white cell counts may point to infections in the urinary tract. A complete blood count (CBC) can help detect these conditions. Other diagnostic tests include abdominal X-rays, contrast studies of the urinary tract, ultrasonic exams of the kidneys and bladder, and renal biopsy. Some diseases (diabetes and CHF in particular) may predispose the dog to renal failure, so tests to rule these out may be needed. See “Passing the Blood Test” (November 2003) for more information on blood chemistry analysis. Prerenal conditions These conditions result from reduced blood flow to the kidneys due to such causes as dehydration, congestive heart failure, or shock. They usually resolve completely with appropriate treatment, but they may also progress to renal disease and renal failure. Renal conditions

Every practitioner will tell you that kidney disease is one of the most common entities seen in vet practices daily. Acute renal failure usually occurs following a major insult to the kidneys. Potential causes include vascular conditions (such as disseminated intravascular coagulation or DIC), immune mediated conditions (such as lupus), renal infections, and ingestion of toxins (such as heavy metals, aminoglycoside antibiotics, painkillers, and ethylene glycol or antifreeze). Once the instigating factor(s) is removed with specific therapy, and supportive therapy is instituted (for example, fluids to enhance flow through the nephrons), the kidney typically returns to its normal function. If the disease process is allowed to proceed for a few days to a few weeks, chronic renal disease may ensue. Chronic renal failure (CRF) presents a far more complex and ever-evolving picture. Therapy often must be adapted to the individual case and its progress over time. Basic principles of therapy include: • Determination of the cause of the disease, if at all possible. • Removal of potential toxins – including drugs that are known to be harmful to the kidneys. • Restoration of blood flow through the glomeruli. Fluids, given sub-Q, IV, or orally if possible, can be life-saving. Some dogs with CRF can manage a fairly good quality of life so long as fluids are administered on a routine basis – daily or several times a week. • Dietary changes to help bring the body and the urinary system back into balance (see nutrition, below). • Specific treatments to help counter the cause of the disease. Infections, for example, can be treated with antibiotics, herbs, acupuncture, or immune system-enhancing methods. Primary glomerulopathies are uncommon in dogs. They are often due to an immune-mediated disease that ultimately creates the formation of immune complexes in the glomerular capillary wall. These immune complexes prevent normal glomerular functioning, and the dog is unable to retain protein. The primary symptoms are frequently due to the protein loss: weight loss, edema or ascites, dyspnea (difficulty breathing, due to pleural effusions or pulmonary edema), coagulation disorders, and proteinuria. Severe cases can result in renal failure and uremia. Drugs are a prevalent cause of renal disease, and there are many that have been implicated. Aminoglycoside antibiotics are the second most common cause of acute renal disease in dogs (behind only antifreeze toxicity), and the frequency of toxicities seems to be increasing every year. Although their spectrum of toxic severity varies, all antibiotics in the aminoglycoside classification are nephrotoxic. Aminoglycoside antibiotics include neomycin, kanamycin, gentamicin, amikacin, and streptomycin. Many painkillers (including nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs or NSAIDs), chemotherapy agents, and many other drugs have been reported to be nephrotoxic. Some herbs have also been cited as potentially nephrotoxic, including wormwood (Artemisia absinthium); sassafras (Sassafras albidium); horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum); chaparral (Larrea spp.); and periwinkle (Vinca minor). Bottom line: Ask about the potential renal toxicities for any drug or therapy your practitioner recommends. Postrenal conditions There are several potential causes of partial or complete obstruction of the outflow vessels of the urinary tract, including tumors, enlarged prostate in the male dog, trauma that causes blood clots or eventual scarring, and uroliths or stones. Of these, stones are the most common. Generalized symptoms of constriction of the urinary tract include nonproductive straining to urinate, increased frequency of urination (without an increased volume), and blood in the urine. Symptoms may be present for a period, followed by periods of apparently normal function. Uroliths (also known as urinary calculi or stones) are crystalline concretions, found in the urinary tract, that contain mostly inorganic crystalloids, along with a small amount of organic matrix. Almost any mineral substance that passes through the kidneys could form one of these precipitates, and under favorable conditions, a hardened concretion could develop. Stones are named according to the predominate crystal found within. The most common stones found in dogs are struvite and calcium oxalate. Typically, when a dog has uroliths, crystals are seen in urine sediment. Depending on the stone’s size and mineral composition, X-rays can be used for detection; however, some uroliths don’t show up well on X-ray films. Laboratory analysis of the stones is needed to positive identify the minerals they contain. Some breeds are predisposed to forming uroliths, and some breeds are especially prone to forming a specific type of urolith. For example, due to a genetic defect in uric acid metabolism, Dalmatians are predisposed to urate calculi formation. With each type of urolith, there are predisposing factors that tend to precipitate the problem, and each of these factors is specific for the type of urolith formed. For example, oxalate crystals form in acidic urine, struvite crystals tend to form in alkaline urine. Check with your vet for these specifics, to help formulate a plan for treatment and prevention. Symptoms vary with the location and the size of the urolith. They include frequent attempts to urinate, straining or inability to urinate, hematuria, overdistended bladder, or signs of uremia. Uroliths may also be totally or periodically asymptomatic. They often cause secondary irritation and result in infections. Struvite is composed of magnesium ammonium phosphate, in varying ratios and degrees of purity. Struvite uroliths form in alkaline, concentrated urine, and there is a genetic predisposition for their formation. Medical management may be helpful and may even dissolve the stones. A medical protocol would include enhancing urine flow (diuresis along with plenty of water intake), production of acidic urine, and dietary means to reduce magnesium and phosphorous and (perhaps) to reduce protein. (For more on protein, see nutrition section, below.) Calcium oxalate uroliths, in contrast, must be removed surgically, since attempts to dislodge them by nutritional means alone have not proven successful. An acute urinary obstruction is an emergency condition that requires immediate care. Urine backup creates a toxic level of urea in the body which may, within hours, cause neurological signs and eventually lead to death. Your veterinarian may need to use anesthesia to pass a catheter to dislodge the stone(s) for immediate relief. Other urinary tract diseases Infections of the urinary tract include cystitis (infection of the bladder), pyelonephritis (kidney infection), and urethral infections. Infections can be caused by a variety of microorganisms, and they are conventionally treated with antibiotics or alternatively with herbs or other methods. Clinical symptoms include the list of urinary dysfunctions: hematuria, difficulty and increased frequency of urination, etc. Infections are usually easily diagnosed by examining the urine sediment for the presence of bacteria and/or blood cells. Culture and sensitivity can also be performed to determine the antibiotic of choice; herbal remedies typically have a broad range of activity, although their potency may not be quite as strong. While symptoms of urinary infections or obstruction may wax and wane, depending on the degree of obstruction and/or the amount of irritation to the urinary tract, you can often predict an event by observing precursor symptoms such increased attempts to urinate (with poor results), straining to urinate, or blood-stained urine. At the onset of these symptoms, I’ve had excellent results with dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale) and Oregon grape root (Berberis aquifolium), perhaps along with echinacea (Echinacea spp.) to enhance the immune system. Of course, make sure the dog drinks plenty of water and continues to be able to urinate freely. Dandelion acts as a diuretic and Oregon grape root has antibiotic activity; the combination is often enough to ward off further development of disease while we try to correct the problem nutritionally or with other medications. There are two problems of the urinary tract – urinary incontinence and conditions of the prostate – that deserve more discussion, but since they are more related to the reproductive tract, I’ll cover them in the next installation of the Tour of the Dog. The urinary system is also affected with a long list of physical anomalies, many of which have a familial tendency. Included in this list are renal dysplasia and hypoplasia, renal agenesis, polycystic kidneys, renal cysts, and some of the glomerulopathies. Neoplastic diseases also occur along the length of the urinary tract, and their diagnosis and treatment are the same as for neoplasias affecting other sites. Western and other therapies Western medical therapies for treating urinary system diseases are aimed at the following: removing or discontinuing instigating factors (infections, for example, or nephrotoxic drugs); improving hydration so that urine flow through the tract is optimal; providing nutritional support that minimizes stress to the kidney while it helps return the body back to balance; and using specific medications that apply to the ongoing condition of the patient. Alternative medicines can be helpful for treating many of the common conditions that affect the urinary system. Alternative medicines may prove even more beneficial for maintaining a balance of the “extra” functions of the kidney – the functions that help the animal maintain homeostasis. “Alternative” or “holistic” practitioners will try to create the same benefits that their Western colleagues expect, typically by using a more natural approach – with home-prepared foods rather than commercial “prescription” diets, as one example. A holistic practitioner will also likely employ one of the alternative methods to try to re-establish homeostasis. Nutrition will likely be the mainstay for the holistic practitioner treating renal disease. Holistic treatments will vary according to individual patient needs and will likely change as the healing process progresses. Nutrition Nutritional approaches to treating urinary tract diseases are fairly common now, especially since the dog food companies have seen the potential for increased sales. It’s important to remember that each type of urinary tract disease requires an individualized nutritional approach. With this in mind, there are some basics that may help you when you devise a diet for your dog. It is important to maintain fluid flow through the kidney, so the dog’s diet should either be moist or should encourage drinking lots of water. Some diets include salt to enhance thirst, but salt encourages fluid retention, which is not good for the heart. Excess phosphorous may speed the progression of renal conditions. Low-phosphorus diets are difficult to formulate, so most commercial foods contain “phosphorous binders” – substances that contain ingredients that remove phos-phorous from the blood. Some diets or therapeutic regimes use potassium citrate, an alkalizing agent that helps maintain potassium levels in the body and helps with the management of calcium oxalate uroliths. Antioxidants (such as Omega-3 and -6 fatty acids) can speed the repair of renal damage from disease. Vitamins A, C, and E can be used for their antioxidant effects, but these vitamins can affect the pH of the dog’s urine. If your dog has a history of or predisposition to stones, work with your vet to monitor the pH of the dog’s urine when you feed these supplements. B vitamin supplements can be beneficial, especially if diuretics are used to enhance urine flow. One of the most controversial topics in canine nutrition has to do with proteins in the diet of kidney-compromised dogs. Studies have produced conflicting results. In years past, we thought that we helped compromised kidney function by providing a low-protein diet. Not all current research supports this, however. Recent studies indicate that a low-protein diet (less than about 10 percent) may actually be detrimental when treating kidney disease. What seems to be the consensus now is that a diet moderately high in protein (30 to 35 percent), provided in high quality, readily assimilated proteins, is most supportive for long-term care of the kidney-compromised dog. What none of the studies shows is what most interests a holistic practitioner: How much “vitality” is contained in the food. Processed foods have almost no healthy “energy.” Raw, home-prepared foods have the dietary vitality that dogs evolved with, foods that retain their natural capacity to provide overall health and vigor. I have no scientific data to support this, but my guess is that an unprocessed diet that approximates the high protein diet of the wild canine will ultimately prove to be the best one for preventing renal disease. (Editor’s note: WDJ will publish an article on diets for kidney-compromised dogs in a few months.) Herbal therapies The list of herbs that may be helpful for aiding urinary problems is extensive. For starters, many herbs are diuretic, with a range of activity varying from slight to profound. Most conditions of the urinary tract benefit from an increased flow of urine, so almost any herb will be helpful in this regard. Further herbal selection depends on the specific condition – for example, one herb that has been used to treat kidney stones is bearberry or uva-ursi (Arcto-staphylos uva-ursi). My favorite herbal combination for non-specific urinary tract conditions, especially the recurring types that may be related to low grade infections, are dandelion root and Oregon grape root. Go, team! As I consider the various and sundry functions of the urinary system and how to best keep all its aspects healthy and functioning and in accord with other body systems, I can’t help but think that this is a prime example where a team approach may be the most beneficial. To be most effective, we need the diagnostic acumen of Western medicine, the services of a good, holistic dietitian (to help us provide the best balance by using whole foods), and an herbalist who is well informed on potential kidney toxicities as well as the benefits of the herbs. Finally, to provide the most beneficial treatment for a specific kidney disease, there will be occasions when Western medicine is simply more prudent and better than any of the alternatives available. Also With This Article Click here to view “Can Meat Cause Kidney Failure?” Click here to view “A Low-Protein ‘Kidney Diet’ is Not Always The Answer” Click here to view “Chronic Kidney Disease in Dogs” -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

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Pets and PETA

1

by Nancy Kerns

Criticizing an organization that accomplishes good things on behalf of beings with no resources with which to help themselves – why would I want to do that? Actually, I hadn’t meant to – yet.

In the February issue, I mentioned that it had come to my attention that someone in the pet food industry was spreading a rumor that WDJ and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) were somehow in alliance. I have a good hunch that the rumor was being spread maliciously, to try to undermine WDJ’s standing as an independent and reputable voice. I addressed the rumor directly because I wanted to nip it in the bud, fast.

I mentioned that I didn’t know much about PETA, but was aware that the animal rights organization had a poor reputation among dog owners. I offer my sincere apologies; that was a sloppily written statement, and I knew better. I should have said, “among some dog owners.” Because the little bit that I do know about PETA is that there are a number of dog owners who can’t stand the high-profile group.

I know this because I’ve seen many anti-PETA statements posted on dog-related bulletin boards, and heard many critical comments about the PETA at dog-related venues. The criticisms I’ve heard suggested that PETA is anti-pet – that the group is opposed to the practice of owning dogs and every other type of animal. I’ve also seen a number of quotes to this effect attributed to Ingrid Newkirk, PETA’s founder and president.

Since being taken to task for my inaccurate statement by a number of readers who are fans of PETA, I belatedly educated myself about the group’s stance on dog ownership and use of dogs. I found no evidence to support the accusation that PETA is against dog ownership in the organization’s literature on its Web site (www.peta.org).

PETA does, however, disapprove of any and all dog breeding. One of its factsheets (“Companion Animals: Doing What’s Best for Them”) cites a number of sad statistics quantifying the numbers of dogs and cats put to death in U.S. animal shelters each year, and comments, “In light of these tragic statistics, no breeding can be considered ‘responsible.’ ”

It follows that the group is not crazy about conformation dog shows, which promote dogs based on appearance, because breeding has created health problems in many breeds. It is opposed to all tail-docking and ear-cropping.

I’ve heard it alleged that PETA is opposed to all dog training, dog sports, and use of service or working dogs. That’s not currently reflected in its literature, either, although the factsheet referenced above does mention the group’s opposition to dog sports and the use of working dogs when the dogs are treated inhumanely, pushed beyond their natural limits, sent into dangerous situations, and deprived of opportunities to socialize with other dogs.

PETA is opposed to all laboratory testing on animals – which is one place where the group and I disagree. My personal opinion – which is not that of WDJ or its contributors – is that it’s possible for labs to keep and use animals in a humane fashion, and that some lab tests involving animals are valuable and necessary. I would include feeding trials, which I discuss at length in “On Trial” (in this issue), in this category.

PETA has been a part of a movement that has improved living conditions for many animals. I think that’s commendable. Even so, I admit I’m not a fan of the techniques it uses to forward its mission of “establishing and protecting the rights of all animals.”

How about you? Do you think that any means justify the potential end of poor living conditions for lab dogs?

———-

Correction
In the March 2005 issue, we listed an incorrect phone number for Dr. John Symes, who advocates a gluten-free diet for dogs. The correct number is (251) 343-7110. We regret the error and apologize for any inconvenience it may have caused.

Pet Food Company On Trial

[Updated March 4, 2016]

In 2003, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) launched a media campaign aimed at exposing what it characterized as the cruelty, pain, and suffering experienced by dogs and cats that are used in laboratory research studies conducted by pet food companies.

One of the more unfortunate results of this campaign, as far as we’re concerned, is that consumers may have become convinced by PETA’s campaign that two important lab tests – feeding trials and metabolic studies – are inherently cruel. In fact, there is nothing innately cruel about the tests themselves; neither imposes anything more invasive than the removal of a blood sample on the canine test subjects. Also, we believe the tests do benefit the canine population at large. In our opinion, it’s how (and how long) the dogs are kept by the labs that could stand major improvement.

There are all sorts of other laboratory research studies conducted by the larger pet food manufacturers that push the envelope of “humaneness.” Some companies perform (or order a “contract lab” to perform) studies that call for a disease or health problem to be induced in a population of test dogs, such as a damaged kidney or cardiac problem. Then various nutritional approaches to improving the condition are tried. Some of these tests also require euthanasia and postmortem studies of the dogs; feeding trials and metabolic studies do not.

Research conducted to formulate foods that improve health problems has the most potential for inflicting pain and suffering on the test dogs. But it shouldn’t mistaken for what happens in a feeding trial to confirm the nutritional adequacy of a food – which is what this article is about. We’ll save for another day a discussion about the ethics and practice of conducting research that requires the induction of disease and euthanasia of the test subjects.

Definition of a Feeding Trial

It should not come as a surprise that pet food makers use dogs and cats to develop and test their products, and not just in a “He likes it! Hey Mikey!” kind of way. The most common test ordered by dog food makers is the “feeding trial,” a formal test where dogs are fed a certain food and nothing but that food for about six months. Feeding trials are conducted to test and – it is hoped – establish the ability of a food to keep dogs alive and reasonably well. When a food “passes” a feeding trial, its maker earns the legal right to include a statement on the product label assuring consumers that a feeding trial has established the nutritional adequacy of the food.

The “metabolic study” is another increasingly common test used by pet food makers. It requires that a dog spend at least five days in a relatively uncomfortable cage with a slatted metal floor, which allows technicians to collect every bit of the subject’s urine and feces. We’ll describe it in more detail below, but suffice to say it’s a common test, not invasive, but not particularly fun for the dog, either.

Sound like a case for PETA? The high-profile animal rights organization opposes all laboratory testing on animals, so it was perhaps just a matter of time before it trained its sights on the laboratory testing conducted by pet food makers.

However, PETA’s metaphorical weapon isn’t sharpshooter-precise; it tends to be more like a shotgun splatter of allegations of animal cruelty. PETA has taken the pet food industry (with a special concentration on one unlucky company in particular) to task for the all the research it conducts to develop and establish foods. (For more on the PETA campaign, see “Truth Is the First Casualty of War” sidebar.) But again, we’re going to limit our discussion to just two pet food tests that we feel are useful.

“Complete and Balanced”

Go grab a can or bag of your dog’s food, and look for a little bit of fine print that mentions AAFCO – the Association of American Feed Control Officials. The statement tells you what sort of proof the manufacturer used to establish the nutritional adequacy of that product. Pet food makers cannot claim a food is “complete and balanced” unless they can prove this in one of three ways:

• A feeding trial confirms that the food was able to maintain a population of test subjects for a determined period.

• A laboratory analysis confirms the food contains nutrients in amounts established by AAFCO as necessary for either “maintenance,” “growth,” or “gestation and lactation.” If the label claims it meets the AAFCO nutrient profiles for “all life stages,” the food must meet or exceed the requirements of the AAFCO nutrient levels for growth and gestation/lactation.

• A dog food in the same “product family” as a similar, “lead” product that passed a feeding trial may make the same nutritional adequacy statement as the lead product. To qualify as a “family member,” the family and the lead product must be of the same processing type (both are extruded kibble, for example) and contain the same approximate amount of moisture, a similar amount of metabolizable energy (as determined by a metabolic study), and similar amounts and ratios for crude protein, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, lysine, and thiamine (as determined by laboratory analysis).

There are three ways a product can earn its AAFCO statement, but only two different statements found on dog food labels: a “nutrient levels” or a “feeding trial” statement. That’s because AAFCO allows a product that meets the family requirements to use the lead product’s feeding trial claim, even though the family members didn’t pass a feeding trial. To complicate matters, pet food companies don’t (and don’t have to) disclose to consumers which food is the lead product that passed a feeding trial and which foods are the family members.

Feeding trials are considered by most veterinary nutrition experts to be the “gold standard” for proving nutritional adequacy claims – superior to the “nutrient levels” method of proof. That’s because it’s quite possible for a laboratory analysis to confirm that a food contains the amounts of various nutrients judged to be necessary for maintaining a dog, but for the product, in practice, to fail at that very job.

This is possible because not all nutrients may be in a digestible (“bioavailable”) form. Most nutritionists agree that feeding trials offer the most reliable confirmation of a food’s ability to deliver nutrients in a form that will benefit the target species.

AAFCO Feeding Trial Protocols

Of course, to be of comparative value, a feeding trial needs to be standardized, so all products that “passed” a trial can be considered equally adequate. That’s where AAFCO comes in.

Contrary to its official-sounding name, AAFCO is not a regulatory power; it’s an advisory body comprised of state feed control officials (the voting members) as well as representatives from the pet food industry, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), and other interested groups.

AAFCO researches and discusses policies that affect the feed industry, and drafts model regulations that feed control officials can bring home to their states for modification and/or adoption. Committees are appointed to study specific topics, such as ingredient definitions, labeling, manufacture, inspection, and enforcement; the committees then bring their analyses to the entire body for review and action. All of the individual American states enact and/or codify most or all of AAFCO’s suggested regulations for the manufacture and sale of animal feeds within their borders.

AAFCO designed the standardized protocols used by pet food makers to test the nutritional adequacy of their products through feeding trials. There are slightly different rules for different trials, depending on the claim the manufacturer wants to make for its product. The possible categories for dogs are:

• Adult maintenance
• Growth (puppy food)
• Gestation/lactation
• All life stages

We’ll examine each of these in detail.

Tried as Adults

For an adult maintenance claim, a minimum of eight healthy adult dogs (at least one year of age) and of optimal body weight are required to start the test. Eight control dogs meeting the same description are required for a control group and are fed a different food. While eight is the minimum number for each group, a minimum of 30 dogs must be monitored to establish values for “colony averages” of weight and blood test results before and after the trial.

Because a minimum of 30 dogs are required to establish the colony averages, the number of dogs used for both the control and the tested food groups are generally more than the minimum of eight. The distribution of different breeds in the two groups should be the same.

The adult maintenance test runs for a minimum of 26 weeks. The test diet is the sole source of nutrition (besides water, which must be provided at all times) for the dogs in the test diet group; the control group is fed a different food, one that has already passed a feeding trial for the same claim.

All the dogs are weighed at the beginning of the test, weekly, and at the end of the test. They also receive a complete physical inspection by a veterinarian before and after the test, and are evaluated as to general health, body, and hair coat condition. After the test, blood is taken from each animal and the results for hemoglobin, packed cell volume, serum alkaline phosphatase, and serum albumin are recorded.

Some dogs, not more than 25 percent of those starting the test, may be removed from the trial for “non-nutritional reasons” (say, one develops cancer or somehow breaks a leg) or for poor food intake (meaning the dog is not eating enough). Dogs can be removed for the latter reason only in the first two weeks of the test. A necropsy must be performed on any dogs that die for any reason during the test and the findings must be recorded.

The test food will fail the trial if any dog on the test diet shows clinical or pathological signs of nutritional deficiency or excess, or if any dog on the test diet loses more than 15 percent of its initial body weight.

The average weight of the entire test group is also taken into account; the food fails if the entire group’s average body weight change (from the start of the test to the end) is more than -10 percent or if it is less than the average of the control group’s body weight (minus an allowance for normal variation).

The average values from the dogs’ blood tests can also cause a food to fail. The test group must have adequate values for hemoglobin, packed cell volume, and albumin and must not exceed specific values for serum alkaline phosphatase.

A pet food manufacturer can employ the protocol for either a growth or a gestation/lactation study – both are considered more rigorous than the adult maintenance protocol – and still make the “adult maintenance” claim if the food passes the trial.

Finally, in case it wasn’t absolutely clear, feeding trials are not terminal; they do not require the euthanasia of any dogs.

Puppies on Trial

The protocols are similar for the growth and gestation/lactation trials. The major differences are as follows:

In order to make a growth claim, a minimum of eight puppies from three different mothers are required to start the test, with a control group of eight puppies from three different mothers. The distribution of pups of different breeds and sex in the two groups should be the same. A total of 30 puppies are required to establish colony averages. The puppies must be weaned, but no older than eight weeks, when the test is started. The test runs for a minimum of 10 weeks.

The post-trial blood test measures the same blood values as the older dogs, except for serum alkaline phosphatase, which is not measured.

The average body weight gain in the pups fed the test diet must be no less than either 75 percent of the colony average, with averages for males and females determined separately, or the colony average minus 2.33 times the standard error.

For gestation/lactation trials, enough females must be used to ensure that a minimum of eight pregnant females start the trial. The females must be in at least their second heat period and be at least one year of age.

There is no size or breed requirement, but the females must have been bred to dogs of the same breed. Breed distribution must be the same in both the test and the control group. A minimum of 30 pregnant females must be used to develop colony averages.

The test begins at or before estrus, and ends when the puppies are four weeks of age. The females are weighed at breeding, weekly during gestation, within 24 hours after whelping, weekly during lactation, and at the end of the test. The puppies’ body weights are measured within 24 hours of birth, weekly, and at the end of the test.

The litter size is recorded at birth, one day of age, and at the end of the test. Stillbirths and congenital abnormalities are recorded. Both the mothers and puppies are given a physical examination by a veterinarian at the end of the test and general health, body, and hair coat condition are recorded.

As with the other trials, the diet fails if any female or puppy shows clinical or pathological signs of nutritional deficiency or excess. Additionally, 80 percent of all the puppies that survived past the age of one day must survive and successfully finish the test.

Also, the females must gain weight during their pregnancies, and the average percent body weight change of the females – from breeding to the end of the test – can’t be too great. The litter size of the puppies in the test group must be at least 80 percent of the colony average, and they must have an adequate average weight (with respect to the colony averages) at the end of the test.

The required blood test results are similar to those required for the growth trial.

All the World’s a Stage

To earn the right to make the claim that a food provides adequate nutrition for all life stages, the product must pass the gestation/lactation trial and then be fed to the puppies produced from the litters whose mothers ate the test product in a growth trial. This is the most stringent test used to confirm a dog food’s nutritional adequacy.

However, while the term “all life stages” suggests a dog can eat the food from puppyhood to grave, this probably shouldn’t be taken quite that literally, since the inclusion of senior dogs is not required in any AAFCO feeding trial protocol.

A consumer might also mistakenly conclude that an all life stages food is guaranteed to benefit dogs with various health problems – dogs with poor kidney function, cardiac conditions, diabetes, etc. Not so. In fact, there are no AAFCO feeding trial protocols that prove a “medical benefits” claim.

Good, Not Perfect

The most significant criticism of the feeding trials method of providing nutritional adequacy – aside from the alleged cruelty of the tests, which we’ll discuss below – is that foods are tested for just six months. Many people feed their dogs the same food for years on end, unaware that there may be no scientific proof that dogs can thrive on the formula for years on end. Six months may not be enough time for the effects of any nutritional excess, deficiency, or imbalance to express itself to the point of detectable health problems in the test dogs.

AAFCO is cognizant of this concern. The serum alkaline phosphatase assay was added to the adult maintenance trial protocol in recent years, in an effort to detect calcium deficiencies that may not otherwise be detectable in a physical examination at the end of the six month trial.

As another example, there have been reports of foods found to contain levels of taurine that proved too low to prevent the development of cardiomyopathy in consumers’ dogs – after passing feeding trials. And the protocols don’t address the unique nutritional needs of breeds that are prone to genetic disorders that require specific nutritional therapy, such as Bedlington Terriers (which require a diet especially low in copper and high in zinc).

Another criticism has to do with the relatively small number of dogs required in the tests. As we detailed above, 16 is the minimum number of dogs needed to pass a feeding trial to prove an adult maintenance claim; this includes the dogs eating the tested food and the “control” group that eats another food. Theoretically, just eight dogs could “prove” the nutritional adequacy of a food that becomes the sole source of nutrition for millions of dogs. In actuality, the studies are generally more populous than the bare minimum required, but the more dogs that are used, the higher the cost of the tests, so it follows that no formula is likely to be tested on thousands of dogs.

It’s also potentially problematic that the lives – and therefore, the nutritional needs – of dogs in labs aren’t terribly similar to most of our dogs. Of course, as you’ll see below, we’d like to see the living conditions of test dogs come to more closely resemble those of our dogs.

Metabolic Studies

These studies have become far more common since AAFCO established a third way (the “family” protocol) for a product to earn its proof of nutritional adequacy; this method requires a metabolic study of each prospective family member.

Metabolic studies require a dog to be kept, for a minimum of five days, in a cage with a slatted metal floor. This floor allows the lab staff to collect every bit of the dogs’ urine and feces for analysis. The total amount of metabolizable energy in the food can then be determined by tracking the dog’s food intake to calculate the gross energy consumed and subtracting the energy in the waste products.

Life in a Lab

Now for the bad news. PETA is right about one thing: Life in a cage sucks for any animal. This is not quite the same thing as saying life in a cage is inherently cruel. But dogs are pack animals, and a solitary existence, devoid of physical contact with other dogs or other enrichment or socialization does not meet what we would consider a required minimum mental health standard.

And, while any individual feeding trial is just six months, and metabolic studies are just five days in duration, the “time served” by most lab dogs is at least several times those numbers. This is because labs tend to use the same animals over and over again in back-to-back trials. Lab directors defend this recycling, saying it’s surely better to reuse a small population of dogs for a lifetime of trials than to subject a larger number of dogs to just one or a few of the tests.

The good news is that dogs in feeding trials don’t have to live in cages. They can be kept in runs that have access to fresh air and time outdoors, in compatible groups or pairs, and have opportunities to participate in social playtime. Of course, as any kennel operator knows, this sort of facility is far more expensive to staff and maintain. Only pet food makers that really care about its test subjects (or at least, the opinions of consumers) will allocate the extra money for their test dogs to live in an adequately enriched and pleasant environment.

Under pressure from consumers – which can be at least partly attributed to PETA’s media campaign – both the pet food companies and the contract labs they sometimes use are beginning to discuss and consider improving the living conditions for the dogs in their feeding trials.

There have been a number of articles in Pet Food Industry about the industry’s need to improve the welfare of its test subjects. Several pet food industry conventions have presented speakers who made recommendations for lab animal socialization and enrichment programs. And most major pet food makers have published (or made available upon request) a description of their test animal welfare programs and goals.

Reform Still Needed

Unfortunately, this is not to suggest that everything is fine, now. Even the companies that advertise that they provide the very best living quarters, enrichment programs, and provisions for retirement or adoption of their old test dogs don’t invite confirmation of their claims.

For example, one contract lab, Summit Ridge Farms in Pennsylvania, has taken out ads and sent press releases to pet food industry publications, announcing the construction of a huge “puppy playground” and other innovations constituting “the beginning of a long-term environmental enrichment expansion” at its facility. A press release published in Pet Food Industry quoted Mike Panasevich, president of the company, as saying, “We are extremely happy and proud of our facility and the enrichment programs currently in place.”

However, this same executive wouldn’t return our repeated calls or e-mail messages to discuss these positive developments with us – not what you’d expect from someone who had genuine innovations to show off.

This opaqueness makes it appear that the industry still has a lot to hide. And, unfortunately, PETA’s infiltration of a contract lab has now afforded the entire industry with a convenient excuse to hide its work, citing security risks.

Throwing Down a Gauntlet

It seems to us that it would be in the best interests of pet food companies and contract labs to keep their test subjects as happy and comfortable as possible. We imagine this would help the foods produce and maintain health in the test dogs, so the products pass with flying colors.

But the companies would also be wise to do the right thing by their test animals as a marketing technique. For our part, we’d be thrilled to promote a pet food made by a company that could and would prove that its labs provide the best possible living conditions for its test subjects, with comfortable living quarters, plenty of socialization and exercise, and attentive veterinary and behavioral care.

One would think that a policy of openness and full disclosure at a facility that was truly doing everything right for the test dogs and cats would be a fantastic selling point for a pet food maker. But we haven’t found a company that’s willing (or able?) to take that challenge.

-Nancy Kerns is WDJ’s editor.

Teaching Your Dog To Greet People Without Jumping

Week 2 of my Peaceable Paws Good Manners class, I ask the question, “How many of your dogs jump up on people?” Generally at least 80 percent of the dog owners in class raise their hands. “Why do they jump up?” I ask.

I usually get at least one incorrect answer of “Dominance!” but most of my students realize their dogs jump up for attention. And because much of the time the behavior is successful, it’s a challenging one to extinguish.

Be consistent
Consistency is the cornerstone – and the bane – of training success. Consistent reinforcement of polite doggy greetings is reasonably easy. The tough part is ensuring that impolite greetings are consistently not reinforced. Even if you are very good at not reinforcing your dog’s jumping up behaviors, the entire rest of the world is pretty crummy at it. If jumping up is reinforced randomly, it’s very difficult to extinguish.

Paul (my husband) and I are very consistent at not reinforcing our Corgi for jumping up. Lucy is now very good at not jumping up – on us. She still wants to jump on everyone else she sees, so we persistently work on preventing her from being reinforced by everyone else.

I teach my students a three-step process for changing a behavior you don’t want. It’s perfect for applying to rude greetings:

Step 1: Visualize the behavior you do want. Instead of thinking, “I wish my dog wouldn’t jump on people,” have an image in your mind of the behavior you’d prefer to see: “I’d like my dog to greet people by sitting politely in front of them.

Step 2: Prevent your dog from being reinforced for the behavior you don’t want. This means taking appropriate management steps to proactively intercede before Bounder plants his paws on a guest’s shoulders. Your persistent removal of reinforcement for jumping isn’t enough; you have to convince the entire rest of the world to follow suit.

Step 3: Generously and consistently reinforce the behavior you do want. Simply ignoring an undesirable behavior leaves a behavior vacuum. Unless you generously reinforce an alternative behavior, your dog will likely default to the behavior he knows, that has worked for him in the past. Constantly be on the lookout for polite greeting sits. Be sure to greet your dog when he offers them. It’s human nature that we tend to overlook good behavior and respond to bad behavior. Turn that around.

Practice makes perfect
The three-step process sounds easy in principle. It’s not always so easy in practice. You’re most likely to encounter problems with greeting immediate family members, greeting guests in your home, and greeting people in public. Let’s look at how you could apply the three-step process in each of these scenarios.

Greeting family members
In theory, this should be the easiest of the three scenarios, since family members are around very frequently and should be committed to helping you change the behavior. In reality, we know how hard those darned humans can be to train! (Remember that positive reinforcement works well with primates, too!)

You can try several different approaches with family members. First, all must agree to stop reinforcing your dog for jumping, and must all understand that any attention at all is reinforcement. Making eye contact with your dog when he jumps up is reinforcing him. By pushing him off, you’ve touched him – reinforcement! Asking him to “Off!” gives him attention by speaking to him. Reinforcement! In fact, just the fact that his paws touched you can be rewarding to your dog, even if you do nothing else.

To avoid reinforcing your dog for jumping up, he needs to get the opposite response. Rather than eliciting attention, a jump should make all attention go away. When Bounder starts his lift-off, say “Oops!” as you turn your back on him and step away. If he jumps again, turn and step away again. Keep an eye over your shoulder, and when he stops jumping (and, we hope, sits), turn back toward him and give him treats and/or attention.

Meanwhile, use a tether to teach him a more appropriate greeting. You can secure your dog with a leash, but a more durable tether consists of a four- to five-foot piece of plastic coated cable with sturdy snaps on both ends. Attach it to an adequately heavy piece of furniture, or create a tether station by screwing an eyebolt into a wall stud and clipping the tether to it. Alternatively, you can screw an eyebolt into a 2 x 4 block of wood, clip the tether to it, and slide it under a door that, when closed, holds your dog in place.

With Bounder on his tether, approach from a distance. If he’s leaping about in greeting, stand still until he’s calm, then move forward. Anytime he starts to jump, stand still, or even take a step back. When you are close enough to reach out and touch him (but he still can’t jump on you), stand still and wait for him to sit. You can help him get the idea by holding a treat at your chest a few times, but you’ll want to fade the treat (stop using it) quickly so he learns to offer a sit in greeting without being lured. By the same token, don’t ask him to sit – wait for him to offer it. You want him to volunteer the sit in greeting, not wait to be asked for it.

When he sits, mark the polite behavior with a “Yes!” or the click! of a clicker, feed him a treat, and give him attention. Repeat this exercise until he sits promptly as soon as you head toward him. Many dogs will immediately resume jumping up when petted, especially if they have been allowed to greet people boisterously in the past. If your dog starts to leap up as you reach for him or pet him, simply stand up, take a step backward (out of his range), and wait for him to sit again. You may have to withdraw and return several times in rapid succession before he realizes that leaping up makes the thing he wants (attention) go away, and sitting firmly on his bottom makes it return.

Now have the rest of the family practice, all the way down to the toddler.

Of course, your dog won’t always be on a tether, but when he has learned this exercise he’ll be much quicker to offer you (and others) that highly reinforced “sit” behavior in other scenarios as well.

Perhaps the most aroused greetings occur when you return home after a long day away. Bounder is clearly thrilled to see you, and it can be hard to turn your back on such a sincere display of love. Our human family members should greet us with this much enthusiasm, day after day!

If you are reluctant to squelch your dog’s welcome-home enthusiasm, redirect it to a game you both can enjoy. Stash your dog’s favorite toy – or several – in a box just outside the door. Walk into the house with the toy in your hand, and toss it for him to fetch. Even better, reinforce polite greetings by waiting for a sit before you toss. The “welcome home fetch game” allows your dog to be happy about your return, lets you reciprocate, and still keeps his energy controlled and directed into a productive and polite outlet. It’s also easy to transfer to children and visitors!

You may have a family member who insists that he wants Bounder to be able to jump on him. Promise your body-slammer masochist that he can teach Bounder to jump up on cue – after the dog has learned to greet politely. That might motivate him to help with, rather than sabotage, Bounder’s training. Then, when the two of you are ready to teach “Jump up!” be sure you select verbal and body language cues that are very distinctive, and not likely to be offered by accident by an unsuspecting dog greeter.

Greeting guests in your home
Of course, it’s too much to expect that visitors will know enough to turn their backs on your dog when he jumps up on them, so it’s incumbent on you to make sure he doesn’t have the opportunity. Your tether will come in handy here. When the doorbell rings, calmly clip him to his tether station, feed him a yummy treat, then go greet your guests. You don’t have to worry about a door-darting dog, or one who blithely ruins your guest’s nylons. Peace of mind. Over time, Bounder may even come to learn that the doorbell is the cue to go to his tether and wait for treats!

If necessary, leave a tab (a four- to six-inch piece of leash) or a house lead (a four- to six-foot light line) attached to your dog’s collar so he’s easy to gather up and tether. Be sure to remove these when you’re not home, to prevent tangling accidents.

As your guests enter, hand them a few treats, and ask them to approach Bounder on his tether. Be sure they understand that they can feed him the treats and pet him only when he is sitting. Then supervise to be sure they follow directions.

When your dog’s initial excitement subsides, you can release him to greet your guests off leash. By then, you will have had time to instruct them on how to properly reinforce his polite greeting, and how to avoid reinforcing him if he does try to jump.

You can also choose to play the “welcome fetch” game with visitors. Put a large sign on your door instructing visitors to take a toy from the box, bring it in the house with them, and throw it for Bounder when he sits. Dog-loving visitors – the only kind who come to my house! – will enjoy this immensely. Remove the sign when you’re not home, so burglars don’t learn the trick of getting past your guard dog!

Greeting people in public
In public, your leash is the tether. Hold the leash, giving your dog only about three feet of slack. As people approach, keep your distance and the leash at a length that prevents your dog from lunging forward and jumping up on the passerby. You can, of course, reinforce your dog if he offers a sit. If the approachers appear to have dog-petting on their minds, ask (insist!) that they wait for him to sit first. If they say, “That’s okay, I don’t mind if he jumps up,” politely but firmly tell them that you mind, and that they need to wait until Bounder sits. If they ignore your instructions, turn and walk away with your dog, with a cheery “Oops! Sorry!”

If they are willing, you can hand them a couple of treats to feed when your dog sits. If they seem really interested, ask them if they’ll help you train. Give them a handful of treats and ask them to do several approach-sit repetitions to give Bounder more practice at greeting strangers politely on the street.

Fearful greetings
So far, we have presupposed an overenthusiastic greeter, whose behavior is best addressed with positive reinforcement and negative punishment principles of operant conditioning, where the dog’s behavior (a polite sit) causes a good thing to happen (attention), and jumping up causes that same good thing to go away.

Some dog owners have the opposite problem: the dog who launches a volley of defensive fear-barking at the sound of the doorbell or the approach of a stranger on the street. This behavior is best modified through the use of counter-conditioning: changing the dog’s association with visitors and strangers from “Bad! Scary!” to “Yay, treats are coming!”

You might begin by ringing the doorbell yourself, and immediately follow the sound with several tidbits of canned chicken (or something equally succulent and delicious), delivered to your dog’s waiting jaws, even if he’s barking. Repeat this exercise until the sound of the doorbell generates a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” response instead of wild barking.

Then have someone else ring the doorbell – someone your dog knows. Repeat the doorbell-chicken sequence until you’re getting the positive response. Then have the person ring the bell and open the door. This is likely to elicit another round of defensive barking. Feed chicken. Then repeat, and continue repeating until the doorbell/door opening sequence consistently generates the “Where’s my chicken?” response from your dog. Then have the person ring the bell, open the door, and step into the room.

Continue the progression, one small step at a time, feeding chicken at each step until you get the positive response at that level, then take the next step. When he’s fine with the person he knows, try someone he doesn’t know, or at least doesn’t know as well, until he can maintain calm when anyone enters the house.

You can do a similar exercise with people on the street. Set yourself up a distance off the sidewalk so people aren’t walking directly at your dog. The instant he notices someone walking in your direction, start feeding him bits of chicken. When the person has passed by, stop. Over time, as he associates people approaching with yummy chicken, his response should become calmer.

Important note: Do not have the other person feed treats to a fearful dog. His desire for the treat may overcome his caution, temporarily, but when the treat is gone and he realizes he’s too close to a person who scares him, he may bite. You need to first change the association by feeding your dog the treats yourself. When your dog is happy to have visitors and strangers in close proximity, then you can ask the other person to drop treats, or offer them gently using very nonthreatening body language: kneel sideways to the dog, hold the treat out to the side, don’t make direct eye contact or any overt moves to reach for the dog.

If you are consistent and persistent, your dog can learn to greet people politely. In fact, he will soon run up to you and sit as hard and as fast as he can, with as much enthusiasm as he now displays when he jumps up on you. After all, dogs do what works. If you can manage matters so the behavior you want is the behavior that works for your dog, everybody wins!

Hydrosols Used in Canine Aromatherapy

[Updated March 23, 2018]

Most essential oils used in aromatherapy are obtained by steam distillation, at the end of which a small amount of essential oil is extracted from a large amount of water. But that isn’t just any water, for the liquid that condenses after steam drives volatile material from blossoms, stems, leaves, fruit, roots, or seeds is itself an aromatic substance with significant healing properties.

That liquid is called a hydrosol, hydrolat, hydrolate, flower water, floral water, or distillate water. Regardless of name, hydrosols are aromatherapy’s hot topic – and for pet lovers, they’re ideal. They combine the therapeutic benefits of essential oils, which they contain in minute amounts, with the safety of herbal teas. Make that very strong herbal teas, for hydrosols are 20 to 30 times more concentrated than any steeped or simmered tea.

Hydrosols have become buzzword ingredients in cosmetics and skin care products, where they are valued for their pleasant fragrances, hydrophilic (water-loving) acids, and mild but effective anti-inflammatory, astringent, and antiseptic properties.

The most familiar hydrosols are rose water, orange blossom water, and lavender water. But these culinary and hand lotion ingredients are usually made from water and perfume oils, not by steam distillation. The difference is significant, for true hydrosols contain water-soluble components that never appear in essential oils. As a result, hydrosols are gentle, powerful, versatile, therapeutic, and unique.

Quality Hydrosols Are Hard to Find

The first step toward improving your dog’s health with hydrosols is finding them. Until recently, few essential oil distributors sold hydrosols, and even now they’re unusual. That’s because hydrosols take up more space, cost more to ship, require more careful storage, and have a far shorter shelf life than essential oils. In addition, all of the quality concerns that apply to essential oils apply to hydrosols. For best results, buy from recommended suppliers (see sidebar list) and treat hydrosols with care.

In her book, Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, Kristen Leigh Bell explains that the best suppliers identify hydrosols by species, country of origin, growing method, plant parts used, date of distillation, and other details. Most hydrosols have a shelf life of one to two years, so inquire about expiration dates. In addition, ask how the hydrosol has been stored, preferably refrigerated in sterilized dark glass bottles that receive minimal handling. Were preservatives added? Ethyl alcohol, grapefruit seed extract, and synthetic chemicals are common preservatives, but therapeutic-quality hydrosols are preservative-free.

Ask for samples. Good suppliers offer free or low-priced samples for tasting and testing.

Only Use Hydrosols That Have Passed A Test

“As soon as your hydrosols arrive,” says Bell, “wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water and pour a small amount into a clean glass. Hold it up to the light and check for particulate matter or a milky appearance. Fresh hydrosols are clear or have only a hint of color and should not contain a surface residue or large chunks or strings of particulate matter, all of which are evidence of a bacterial ‘bloom.’ Report spoilage to your supplier at once.”

Next, she says, “Smell your hydrosol. It won’t smell exactly the same as its essential oil, but it shouldn’t smell spoiled or rancid. Sniff carefully for any trace of alcohol. If all seems okay, taste it. The more you know about hydrosols and the more you use them yourself, the more effectively you’ll use them for your dog.”

Store hydrosols in the refrigerator or, if that’s not possible, in a cool, dark location. Some suppliers ship hydrosols in spray bottles, which prevents air from entering the bottle whenever you use it. Bottles that are frequently opened are easily contaminated.

Unlike essential oils, hydrosols are either slightly acidic like lavender hydrosol (5.6 to 5.9 pH) or very acidic like rock rose (2.9 to 3.1 pH). Suzanne Catty, one of the world’s leading authorities on these gentle yet powerful products, lists 70 hydrosols and their optimum pH values in her groundbreaking book, Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy. Catty recommends using special pH test strips – available at a low cost from home-brewing catalogs – to check a hydrosol’s shelf life. As soon as it arrives, check your hydrosol’s pH, and write this value on its label or in a notebook, along with the date. Report any questionable pH values to your supplier for a refund or replacement.

After six months, test the hydrosol’s pH again. Any value change of 0.5 or more indicates the presence of bacterial growth. Note that added preservatives affect a hydrosol’s pH, giving you another reason to rely on this method for testing a hydrosol’s quality.

Hydrosols are best replaced after their expiration dates. Use “expired” hydrosols that are still fresh in bath water or your dog’s shampoo, as air fresheners, as a dog bedding freshener, or in floor, dish, or laundry wash or rinse water. If you have plants that like acid soils, water them with expired hydrosols. Spoiled hydrosols should go down the drain or into the garden or compost pile.

Most Common Uses for Hydrosols on Dogs

Once you find a therapeutic-quality hydrosol, you can do all kinds of things with it. Here are some suggestions from Suzanne Catty.

To give a hydrosol in food or water, start with ½ to 1 tablespoon per day for a dog weighing 50 – 70 pounds. For toy dogs, give 1 to 1½ teaspoons per day, preferably diluted. For large and giant breeds, give up to 2 or 3 tablespoons per day. Adjust the following recommendations (based on 50 – 70 pounds) for your dog’s size.

For digestive problems, divide a daily dose of ½ to 1 tablespoon of coriander, peppermint, yarrow, fennel, carrot seed, oregano, basil, or rosemary hydrosol between water and food for three weeks.

For diarrhea, feed ½ tablespoon undiluted cinnamon bark hydrosol every 30 minutes for four doses, then hourly for four doses. “This usually does the trick,” Catty explains. “The cinnamon not only calms the stomach and digestive tract but also helps kill any bacterial cause of the diarrhea.”

For urinary tract problems, you can give your dog ½ tablespoon juniper berry, yarrow, cypress, sandalwood, or goldenrod hydrosol three times daily plus 1 tablespoon hydrosol in the water dish daily for three weeks. In case of infection, try winter savory, oregano, scarlet bee balm, or thyme (chemotype thymol).

For respiratory problems, give 1 tablespoon hydrosol twice or three times daily, and rub 2 tablespoons undiluted hydrosol on the chest and abdomen twice daily for three weeks. Try eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), inula, rosemary (any chemotype), thyme (any chemotype), oregano, or winter savory, or a blend of two or more. Catty recommends supplementing this treatment with the use of essential oils, such as a blend of equal parts ravensara, Eucalyptus radiata, and palmarosa, with a drop or two of patchouli or vetiver. This blend can be dabbed onto the dog’s bedding or diffused into the air with a nebulizer, available from aromatherapy supply catalogs.

For additional recommendations for pet use from Suzanne Catty, see Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy.

You Can Be Creative

One of the easiest things to do with hydrosols is add them to your dog’s shampoo. Try diluting a natural shampoo or liquid soap (one that doesn’t contain synthetic chemicals) with an equal quantity of hydrosol. Do the same with your dog’s conditioner, and add a splash of hydrosol to the final rinse water. The hydrosols of flea-repelling essential oils, such as cedar or rosemary, can help keep your dog flea-free. Where ticks are a problem, use any hydrosol that has a rose fragrance, such as rose geranium, palmarosa, or true rose – although true rose is so expensive and luxurious, you’ll want to save it for spritzing on your own face.

In Madison, Tennessee, Marge Clark runs Nature’s Gift, a leading supplier of therapeutic-quality hydrosols and essential oils. “Many of our customers have dogs,” she reports, “and it’s important that these animals not experience an aromatherapy overdose. A dog’s nose is so sensitive that exposure to essential oils might be painful. The hydrosols are safe, gentle, and effective. My dog, Max, is an 11-year-old, 5-pound Pomeranian. Because of his tiny size, I have to treat him the way I would a human infant. Hydrosols are perfect for him.”

Clark’s favorite hydrosols for canine application are yarrow for hot spots and other skin irritations; lavender, the all-purpose “must-have” hydrosol, which is gentle, soothing, relaxing, and antibacterial; St. John’s wort, which relieves sore muscles and other pain; and neroli, which alleviates stress and anxiety. Helichrysum is her best-selling hydrosol and, at $22 for 4 ounces, the most expensive. This powerful anti-inflammatory is best known for its skin-healing properties.

Jenine Stanley, who lives in Columbus, Ohio, with two Golden Retriever service dogs, has experimented with Nature’s Gift hydrosols and recommends three “essentials” to all of her friends with guide dogs.

The first is tea tree hydrosol, which provides most of the benefits of tea tree oil without the problems that oil can cause. Tea tree oil is controversial because its application has caused temporary paralysis in some dogs and skin burns in others. Organic tea tree hydrosol, which Clark considers “totally safe,” is Stanley’s favorite for drying, disinfecting, and clearing up oozing hot spots or lick granulomas.

“Tea tree hydrosol is also an incredible ear wash for killing yeast in dogs’ ears,” says Stanley. “I saturate several cotton balls and clean the ear as usual. If the ear is crusty or moist, I apply the hydrosol directly to the ear canal – outdoors to accommodate head shaking to clear the debris and liquid.”

Oregano hydrosol has proved valuable for cleaning cuts, insect bites, stings, and even hot spots that have become infected. “I wash the area first with oregano,” Stanley explains, “then apply tea tree hydrosol as a drying agent. Yes, your dog will smell like pizza, but he will be much happier without the infection.”

Her third hydrosol of choice is witch hazel. “It’s an effective drying agent,” she says, “and it keeps the skin inside the ears at an appropriate pH. Witch hazel hydrosol smells good, is soothing, and helps prevent what we affectionately call ‘swamp ears.’ As our two dogs are guide dogs, they are often in tight quarters in public, airplane cabins, elevators, and crowded store lines. Using the hydrosols keeps them fresh, clean, and free from infections.”

At Prairieland Herbs in Woodward, Iowa, Maggie Julseth Howe and Donna Julseth experiment with hydrosols daily. “My Great Pyrenees had chronically ‘dirty’ ears,” says Howe, “and comfrey hydrosol was a wonderfully gentle way to keep them clean. We have also used comfrey hydrosol as an eyewash – not on our dogs, because the occasion has not arisen, but on kittens and a horse, with wonderful results.”

Bathing her Great Pyrenees is such an undertaking that Howe uses other means whenever possible. “A good brushing and a few spritzes of lemon balm hydrosol do wonders for coat shine and smell,” she says. “Commercial dog sprays send her running for the nearest patch of dirt to roll in, but like most dogs, she seems to tolerate the gentle, all-natural scent of hydrosols much better. Last but not least, a light spritz of a mint or other pleasantly scented hydrosol is a great way to freshen up a dog’s favorite bed or sleeping place, or even your couch or car seats.”

Finding Reliable Hydrosol Sources

According to Suzanne Catty, the major problem relating to hydrosols is not contamination, but rather fake or synthetic products sold as hydrosols, real hydrosols to which preservatives and/or stabilizers have been added, or real hydrosols that were improperly collected at distillation, resulting in nontherapeutic, unstable, and only slightly aromatic waters. “True therapeutic hydrosols that are free from preservatives, alcohol, or stabilizers and properly handled are a healing boon for animals of all kinds,” Catty says.

Suppliers find these hydrosols through research, networking, testing, and trial and error.

“If I love a distiller’s hydrosols,” says Marge Clark, “I’m a loyal and enthusiastic customer forever. I never, ever, make a sourcing decision based on price. I’ve done that and regretted it! We have the majority of our oils tested by a well-known chemist with gas chromatography and mass spectrometry, assuring that an essential oil is not adulterated, that it falls within the ‘expected range’ for components. But that testing will not distinguish between a so-so specimen and an extraordinary one. Personal selection makes that distinction, and it involves looking for intangibles, like the vibrancy or life in the aroma. Sometimes there is an energetic difference that can be felt.”

We recommend that you start with suppliers listed below and learn everything you can from them. They are generous with information, recommendations, and suggestions – and they sell superior-quality hydrosols, everything from familiar lavender to rare “boutique” hydrosols like cardamom or comfrey. The only factor that will interfere with your hydrosol collection is availability, for hydrosols are seasonal items that often sell out. When that happens, you have to wait for the next distillation.

Are any hydrosols potentially dangerous for dogs? Clark suggests avoiding the topical application of Australian lemon myrtle (Backhausia citriodora) because this powerful antibacterial hydrosol, which is best used as a room spray, can irritate the skin. “We don’t use it on our own skin,” she says, “so I wouldn’t use it on my dog’s.”

Hydrosols are still so new on the aromatherapy scene that discoveries about their benefits are being made every day. You and your dog can be in the forefront of this exciting new therapy.

HYDROSOLS FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Use a hydrosol for a gentle, effective treatment that can complement your dog’s conventional care.

2. Buy products only from reputable sources; test the quality (with pH test papers) regardless of the source.

3. Use hydrosols as a topical mist, dropped directly into your dog’s mouth, in her food and water, and/or in her shampoo.

4. Keep track of the hydrosol’s expiration date. Discard and replace expired products.

Also With This Article
“Aromatherapy For Dogs”
“Roses Have Holistic Value for Dogs”
“Is Your Dog Afraid of Thunder?”

CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care (Keats/McGraw-Hill) and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats (Gramercy/Random House). She also wrote the foreword for Kristen Leigh Bell’s Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals.

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