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Apple Cider Vinegar for Dogs

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apple cider vinegar for dogs
Buyers who are unfamiliar with apple cider vinegar brands (like this one) that contain "mother of vinegar" would not be blamed for thinking the vinegar has gone bad. The "mother" - a gelatinous biofilm that can be seen floating in the vinegar - is a colony of beneficial bacteria called Acetobacter.

According to its advocates, apple cider vinegar (ACV) is one of the least expensive, most versatile, and most effective canine health aids. 

Applied topically it’s a popular treatment for:

  • Itchy, flaking skin and dull coats
  • Flea infestations
  • Sore muscles
  • Ear infections
  • “Doggy” skin and coat odors

Taken internally, apple cider vinegar is said to:

  • Improve digestion
  • Help prevent urinary tract infections
  • Fight yeast infections
  • Relieve arthritis symptoms
  • Extract medicinal properties from plants when used to make alcohol-free herbal tinctures

WHAT IS VINEGAR, ANYWAY?

All vinegars are made from liquid containing sugar, and cider vinegar begins as a blend of water and apples or apple pectin, a soluble fiber. When exposed to air, which allows yeasts to grow, the natural sugars in apples ferment and become alcohol. As fermentation continues, acetic acid bacteria turn the alcohol into acetic acid, which is vinegar’s main component. Acetic acid gives vinegar its distinctive taste, odor, and properties. 

Because of vinegar’s culinary uses, most groceries carry a variety, such as balsamic (a thick, intensely flavored grape vinegar), white or red wine vinegar, and vinegars made from malt, rice, champagne, sherry, beer, and various fruits. 

Distilled white vinegar is widely sold in the U.S. Made from grains, it has a sharp, distinct flavor and fragrance, and it’s popular as a household cleaning agent and an ingredient in salad dressings, pickles, catsup, and barbecue sauces.

In contrast, apple cider vinegar is often sold as a raw (unpasteurized) product containing the vinegar’s “mother,” a cloudy substance containing unfiltered acetic acid bacteria. Unpasteurized, unfiltered vinegar is preferred by those who consider vinegar a health supplement.

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR AND YOUR DOG

Reports about the health benefits of cider vinegar are anecdotal because no clinical trials testing cider vinegar’s effect on dogs have been published in the medical literature. This does not mean that claims about its uses have been disproven; they simply haven’t been tested, mostly because apple cider vinegar is inexpensive, widely available, and cannot be patented. 

Some of the claims are exaggerations. For example, cider vinegar is often called a nutritional powerhouse, full of vitamins and minerals, but this is inaccurate. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, raw cider vinegar contains 11 milligrams (mg) potassium per tablespoon, but that is its only significant nutrient. 

Apple cider vinegar won’t cure your dog’s cancer, and while it might help prevent urinary tract infections, it isn’t a cure for that condition. 

Apple cider vinegar is usually administered to dogs:

  • Diluted by adding apple cider vinegar to your dog’s water (such as 1 part apple cider vinegar diluted in 3 to 5 or more parts water or another liquid),
  • One-to-one or 50-50 (equal parts of apple cider vinegar and water or liquid), or
  • Full-strength (undiluted) carefully applied with a cotton ball, sponge, or dropper.

Apple cider vinegar can be used as a mild cleaner and disinfectant in the following ways: 

  • Dilute cider vinegar 50-50 with water and apply with a sprayer or sponge immediately after bathing to remove leftover soap residue, alleviate dandruff and itchy skin, condition hair, and repel fleas. To help prevent dander, rub diluted cider vinegar into the dog’s skin just before bathing and wash it off. 
  • A 50-50 cider vinegar soak or rinse can soothe itchy feet, and it can be massaged into muscles strained by overactivity.
  • To make a simple ear cleaner that helps control yeast and fungus (do not apply to inflamed or broken skin), mix 2 tablespoons cider vinegar with 1 cup warm water. 
  • Diluted or full-strength cider vinegar can be sprayed as a deodorizer on dog toys and bedding. Added to laundry rinse water, it acts as a gentle disinfectant.

To help improve your dog’s coat, digestion, or overall condition:

  • Add apple cider vinegar to your dog’s water bowl, starting with a small amount, such as 1 tablespoon cider vinegar in a large bowl of water. Leave a bowl of plain water nearby as a backup in case your dog doesn’t like the taste. Dogs who are used to cider vinegar easily adjust to other water sources when vinegar is added to water while traveling. 
  • Cider vinegar can help digestion by increasing stomach acid levels, which may improve nutrient absorption. Start by adding small amounts to food or water and gradually increase to approximately 1 teaspoon per 15 pounds of body weight (about 1 tablespoon per 50 pounds). 
  • Some users report that organic unpasteurized, unfiltered cider vinegar added to food and water has helped relieve their dogs’ arthritis symptoms.
  • When adding cider vinegar to food or water, start with small amounts and, if your dog tolerates the taste, increase gradually. If the condition you hope to improve doesn’t change within 30 days, discontinue treatment. 
apple cider vinegar rinse after dog bath
Add apple cider vinegar to the rinse water after bathing your dog to help control yeast or fugal infections, such as those that contribute to itchy paws. Photo Credits: Serezniy / Dreamstime.com
  • A washing solution of 1 part vinegar in 3 parts water has been shown to remove 98% of bacteria, out-performing antibacterial soap. Use the solution and a scrub brush on vegetables that will be included in a dog’s raw, home-prepared diet, and rinse in clean water. 
  • For a fragrant coat conditioner, loosely fill a glass jar half full with dried rose petals or lavender blossoms, cover with cider vinegar, and let stand for a month or more. Strain, then lightly spray onto wet hair after bathing.

USE APPLE CIDER VINEGAR IN TINCTURES

Most herbal tinctures are alcohol-based, but cider vinegar is a preferred solvent for tinctures for dogs. In her book Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health (Storey Publishing, 2008), herbalist and dog-lover Rosemary Gladstar recommends placing chopped fresh or dried herbs in a glass jar (if using dried herbs, fill the jar only halfway to allow for expansion), then gently heat raw organic cider vinegar, cover the herbs with warm (not hot) vinegar, leave a 2- to 3-inch margin, close the lid, and let the herbs soak for four to six weeks. Shake the jar daily. Strain and store the tincture in dark cobalt or amber glass bottles, label, and keep away from heat and light. 

In addition to herbs listed in her books and in canine herbal references, Gladstar recommends a garlic/dandelion vinegar tincture as a general tonic and to help dogs repel parasites. Use fresh or dried dandelion leaves, roots, and blossoms with an approximately equal amount of garlic and follow the instructions above. 

Add tinctures to your dog’s food in small amounts, gradually increasing to 1/4 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight per day. 

Learn more about Apple Cider Vinegar Tinctures.

CAUTIONS FOR APPLE CIDER VINEGAR FOR DOGS

Because of its acidity, cider vinegar should be diluted for most canine uses. Avoid the eyes, mucous membranes, and open cuts or abrasions as vinegar will sting if applied to broken skin.

Vinegar should not be used where it could stain or damage wood floors, cabinets, or granite countertops. Cider vinegar is orange-brown in color, so its topical application is not recommended for dogs with white or light coats or for use where it can stain white or light colored carpets or fabrics. 

Before applying diluted cider vinegar to a skin-sensitive dog, test a small area of bare skin with the solution and check 24 hours later for any sign of irritation, itching, or scratching. If your dog doesn’t have an adverse reaction, use moderate amounts such as those described here. Feeding too much cider vinegar can led to vomiting, damage to dental enamel, and mouth irritation. 

How to Pick Up a Puppy

child holding puppy
The boy is happy, but is the puppy? Give the pup the choice to stay or go - then you'll know. In this case, we helped this sweet boy to put some support under the pups rear, and eliminate the 4-paw dangle, and the puppy chose to snuggle in and stay.

When you see a little puppy, the most natural thing in the world is to run over and swoop her into your arms for a nice big cuddle!

I beg you: Don’t do that. It may feel wonderful to you, but the odds are you just created a moment of fear for that puppy. 

PUPPIES GROWL OUT OF FEAR

Style matters, and the seemingly simple pick-up approach above includes three unfortunate choices: The surprise, the swoop, the squeeze. Each of those elements creates discomfort in a being who is new to our human world. (Nobody on Planet Dog picks anybody else up!) To complete the picture of terror, there’s often optional element #4: The Squeal. 

Sometimes, people contact me in a bit of a panic because the puppy they got last week is growling at them, and it’s getting worse every day. A quick home visit usually reveals that these nice folks are in the surprise-swoop-squeeze camp. They are unintentionally terrifying their pup, and the pup is learning to fend off that moment with a growl. 

While that’s a bummer, it’s also great news – because it means we can probably fix this in a jiffy by creating a new pick-up process that will build the missing trust.

RULE #1: NO SURPRISING!

It’s scary for puppies when they are picked up completely by surprise. One minute they’re just hanging out – maybe even sound asleep – and the next they’re up in the air! Sure, some pups will roll with it, but for many others it’s alarming. 

You can avoid the surprise factor by altering your approach. No running! No zooming! Just stroll over so pup has a chance to see you’re on your way. Then crouch down, and take a moment to say hi with a gentle stroke. All along, provide a nice low-volume voice-over for extra reassurance and preparation: “Hi sweet pup. How about I come say hello?” That advance warning system means the puppy has a chance to catch up to the action. 

Extra help: For a pup who has already been growling about handling, a cue word is a nice thing to add. A consistent heads-up in the form of a cheery, “1-2-3 time for a pick-up!” can be a game-changer. It helps pup learn to be ready when that’s about to happen and to totally relax when it’s not.

RULE #2: NO SWOOPING!

Even if you eliminate the element of surprise, you still may hear a growl if your pup feels unsafe in the air. That’s why the second rule of the perfect pick-up is this: No swoop-and-dangle allowed. Your new pup doesn’t want the thrill of an amusement park ride.

Help her feel safe with you by using a slow, cradling motion that keeps her body supported 100% of the time: One hand underneath, the other softly against her chest and shoulder. Bonus points for continuing your quiet voiceover: “Aw, there we go, we’re just going to move over here, you’re my sweetie girl . . .” Don’t stand up too quickly – give pup the old, creaky elevator experience rather than the one that whisks you ridiculously fast to the top floor.

Extra help: If you’re doing remedial work, it can help to have a chew, a toy, or a piece of jerky in your hand as you say, “1-2-3 time for a pick-up!” This way you can distract pup from her worries and create a positive association with the feeling of being handled in this way.

RULE #3: NO SQUEEZE-AND-TRAP!

Once pup is in your arms as you’re standing, you can extend her lesson in trust by slowly, gently putting her right back down. For some puppies, the worst part of a pick-up is the dreaded squeeze-n-trap! Humans love to trap puppies in what they call a loving hug. Alas, the puppy might call it terrifying jail time. 

Nobody – not one human, not one dog – wants their body to be held against their will. And yet somehow we think puppies are supposed to sit endlessly in our laps, or cherish being carried around by us, so we make them do that regardless of their reaction. Kids are the ones who find this hardest to resist, but I’m amazed how many adults also refuse to recognize a puppy’s squirming as a legitimate plea for bodily autonomy. 

To add to the train wreck, these over-held pups are often the ones who grow into dogs who hate being handled! Which is sad in all kinds of ways, because it’s the folks who most want cuddlers who tend to turn their dogs into resisters.

Here’s what I tell kids (and, ahem, a few adults): Do you want to be your puppy’s favorite? Then, especially at first, let that puppy do the choosing! Rather than demanding the puppy’s attention, entice it instead. Get down on the floor, get a squeaky toy, roll around in a puppy-like way – and soon enough that puppy will start choosing you to play with. And then, miracle of miracles, when she’s tired she’ll wander over and choose your lap to sleep in. Now you’re just one step away from that pup happily asking to be picked up and cuddled. 

how to hold a puppy
The perfect puppy hold. Stable support underneath, but with a relaxed hold. Happy puppy feels secure but not trapped. For kids in particular, sitting on the ground is the best way to hold puppies without scaring them.

ALWAYS LOOK AT YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE

If you eliminate the surprise-swoop-squeeze from your routine, your pup will soon be calm about being picked up. To see if you’re at that point yet, look for the signals that pup is happy about this consent-based handling. Is she regularly approaching you? Turning her head toward you instead of away? Relaxing her body against yours? No longer struggling in your arms? Perfect. Now you can skip the warning cue, and the treat in your hand as you lift. 

But the rest? The no-surprise approach? The soothing voiceover? The un-intimidating crouch? The slow, supported lift? Don’t drop those. It’s habits like those that eventually make people describe you as the one who is “just magic with dogs!”

Nope. It’s not magic, just empathy. Use it, and enjoy the rewards.  

Download The Full June 2022 Issue PDF

  • Prepare For Boarding
  • Tragically Cute
  • Over The Hump
  • A Healthier House
  • Ask Before Petting...
  • Apple Cider Vinegar
  • Bloat Is Deadly
  • Help!  My Dog Eats Poop
  • Food And Sustainability
  • How To Pick Up A Puppy
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How to Prepare Your Dog for the Boarding Kennel

dog boarding kennel
When it comes to professional boarding kennels, accommodations come in all forms, from high-volume no-frills facilities with the ability to house upward of 150 dogs, to small businesses that offer luxurious hotel-style rooms for each dog (or several dogs from the same family), complete with human-sized beds, televisions, and private outdoor yards. Photo Credit: Fotocelia / Dreamstime.com

Once upon a time, all commercial boarding kennels closely resembled old-school animal shelters or puppy mills – you know, a row of narrow chain-link pens on concrete inside a loud building or under a barn roof. Fancy ones might contain a hard cot-style bed and dog doors that led to equally narrow individual outdoor runs. But, nearly always, the dogs had to endure the unspeakably stressful proximity of many other stressed dogs, and generally had to eliminate in their pens, which were hosed out while the dogs dodged for cover. Owners who had no other options (other than not traveling) comforted themselves with the idea that at least their dogs were securely contained and fed. 

The good news is that we have many more options today, including boarding “hotels” that may offer our dogs more comfort and enrichment than they enjoy in our own homes. The bad news is that not all of the employees (or even operators) of these businesses may be highly experienced with or knowledgeable about canine behavior and low-stress dog handling. Here’s what to look for when shopping for a dog-boarding facility that will keep your dog secure, comfortable, and unharmed.

RESEARCH AND TOUR YOUR DOG BOARDING FACILITY

It’s important to research and tour prospective boarding facilities well before you need one. Start by checking online reviews – keeping in mind that even the world’s best businesses suffer bad reviews from a few unhinged people with axes to grind. Check with the Better Business Bureau; generally (but not always), complaints lodged with the BBB can be taken more seriously than Yelp-style complaints. Ask dog professionals you respect (vets, trainers, groomers, etc.) if they have information or opinions about the boarding facility. 

Next, call the business to schedule a tour. Online photos and videos of the facility may help you select which businesses you want to check out, but nothing is a replacement for seeing (and hearing) the boarded dogs in real time, seeing how the staff members interact with the dogs, and having an opportunity to see how the facility looks and smells in the middle of a business day. 

Be forewarned: Many dog daycare and boarding facilities decline to conduct tours, citing the disturbance to their guest dogs and the possibility of a visitor bringing a pathogen into the facility. Understandably, this practice has gotten even more widespread since Covid. 

We appreciate the need to protect dogs and staff from infections, and that the appearance of unfamiliar people can cause some excitement among boarded or daycare dogs, but if we can’t see where our dogs are going to be spending their time, or see in action some of the people who will be handling them, we’re not leaving our dogs there. Disposable booties or a disinfectant shoe-bath can be used protect the dogs, and masks and hand-sanitizer can be employed to protect the staff.

You need to see where your dog will be housed and where he will be taken to eliminate and/or recreate. When viewing the accommodations, pay particular attention to:

  • The infrastructure that secures the facility. How tall are the fences in the outdoor yards and are they in good repair? Could a dog escape the facility if a single door or gate was improperly latched? (There should be at least two gates or doors between every place dogs are kept and an exit from the property.) Could an unauthorized person enter the facility and steal a dog? (There should be locked doors or staff present to ensure that no unauthorized persons can enter.)
  • The cleanliness of the facility. Pay attention to how the business looks and smells. Does it appear to be clean? Ask how is it sanitized, and how often?
  • The comfort of the area where your dog will be kept. Does the room seem to have an adequate air supply and climate control? Is the temperature comfortable? What separates the dogs’ individual enclosures; can the dogs see each other? (It’s highly stressful for dogs to both see and be seen by strange dogs while trapped in a small space.) What sort of bedding will your dog have? Is there an ample and spill-proof supply of water in each dog’s enclosure? 

If the enclosures have no direct access to an outdoor potty area, ask how frequently dogs are taken outside or if they’re expected to eliminate in the enclosure. If the latter, how often are the enclosures cleaned and where are the dogs during the process?

  • Check to see what, if any, “comforts” are provided (beds, blankets, toys, and chews). Do the enclosures resemble bare prison cells, or are the dogs given cushy beds?  
  • Discuss the dogs’ exercise options. Many kennels offer the option of recreational play groups. When considering this option, find out how guests are screened to determine their eligibility for play groups. As with daycare and cage-free facilities, play groups must be closely supervised at all times by well-trained staff. 

How large are the play groups? How are play pals selected? How much time do dogs spend engaged in off-leash play? What is the procedure for breaking up a dog fight and how are dogs handled immediately following, as well as for the duration of their stay? Are owners notified? If you don’t wish for your dog to participate in a play group, how will your dog be exercised?

  • Ask about the dogs’ meals. Does the kennel require that all guests eat a facility-provided kibble, or can owners bring their pet’s food from home? Will the kennel accommodate special diets such as home-cooked meals or raw food, and do they charge extra for this?
  • Ask about the kennel’s policy regarding sick or injured dogs. Every kennel should maintain excellent working relationships with local veterinarians and 24-hour care facilities. Find out how emergencies or potential emergencies are handled. When vet care is needed, are owners contacted ahead of time? For minor issues, how is the need for vet care decided and by whom?
  • What are the staff hours? Are there times when the dogs are not being monitored by a present and awake staff member? Not all facilities provide overnight monitoring for their canine guests.
  • Inquire about emergency plans. Fires, floods, earthquakes, tornadoes – emergencies can strike anywhere and at any time. Make sure the facility has detailed emergency plans in place. Can they safely evacuate guests in the event of a natural disaster? Where are the animals evacuated to? Are client records backed up off-site so that owners can be notified of an evacuation should the facility be compromised? 
  •  Last but not least: Ask about the training of the staff. In the kennel industry, a well-trained and competent staff is what ensures the health and safety of your pet. A love of dogs isn’t an adequate job qualification! Kindness, patience, compassion, and an ability to keep one’s own emotions in check are all important traits that must be combined with a solid understanding of dog behavior and a natural ability with dogs. This is critical in facilities that allow dog-to-dog interaction among guests.

Ask about the training that the employees receive and how much (if any) continuing education is required. Are they required to complete any sort of educational modules or classes about dog behavior, Fear Free handling, or pet first aid? Facility staff should be skilled in the nuances of dog body language; how to recognize, prevent, and interrupt bullying; and how to safely break up a dog fight. 

Note: Unless you board your dog at your usual, familiar trainer’s facility, we suggest that you not authorize training during boarding, unless you have taken the time to thoroughly screen the trainer and her methods. 

Red Flags That Say, 'Find Another Boarding Kennel!'

If, on a tour of the facility that you are considering for boarding your dog, you see any of the following, continue your search for another candidate for your business. There are more boarding options today than ever; even if you have to drive your dog some distance to a high-quality kennel, it’s worth the trouble. Your dog’s life is literally in the hands of these people! 

  • You aren’t allowed to see where your pet will be housed. Some facilities cite insurance reasons for keeping owners out of the kennel area, but at a minimum, you should be allowed to look through a door or window and see the area where your pet will stay. 
  • Dirty facility. Pet messes should be cleaned up promptly and adequate air circulation (necessary for the good health of your pet) should prevent an overall “doggy” smell. In general, the facility should appear neat and clean and should not have an unpleasant odor. 
  • Inattentive staff. Their top priority should be the dogs. It’s a bad sign if the one person watching a play group of dogs is suddenly the same person giving you a tour of the facility!
  • Excessive barking. It’s reasonable to expect bursts of barking when a human or dog travels through the kennel area. Continued barking likely points toward a bigger problem such as lack of exercise, lack of mental stimulation, inadequate potty opportunities, or an overall high stress/anxiety level.
  • Inappropriate handling, such as physical or shouted “corrections.” Experienced, well-educated dog handlers don’t need to hit or “alpha-roll” dogs, ever.

YOUR DOG’S INTERVIEW

dogs relaxing in cage free boarding
“Cage-free” boarding sounds great. But asking your dog to endure the constant presence of his peers – for an extended period of time and in a confined space – can be stressful. If considering a cage-free facility, be sure to spend time watching the way dogs interact and are managed. Findout if dogs receive any structured down time and how personality conflicts between dogs are handled. In this facility, some dogs wore muzzles for much of the day and staff members were armed with spray bottles – yikes!

Turnabout is fair play: If you’ve found a boarding business that you’d feel good leaving your dog with, the next step is to make sure the boarding business has an opportunity to meet your dog and learn as much about him as possible before taking responsibility for his well-being. 

Many boarding businesses have an evaluation process that must be completed in advance of your dog’s stay, to ensure he’s a good fit for the kind of care they provide – and they may charge a nominal fee for conducting this evaluation. Some require that your dog spend some minimum amount of time with the facility in a daycare arrangement prior to being boarded overnight – again, to make sure that your dog is ready and capable of spending time comfortably in the type of accommodations that the business offers.

Be ready to disclose whether your dog has ever had any incidents of aggression with other people or dogs. Don’t hide or gloss over this information. If your dog has a fight or bite history, his handlers need to know, so he’s not unwittingly set up to fail and put into a situation that’s beyond his ability to handle. 

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR BOARDING

Find out, well in advance of your travel plans, what vaccinations are required by the boarding kennel. Most require that some vaccines be given two or more weeks in advance of the dog’s stay (because it takes about that long for the dog to develop immunity after vaccination). If your dog is a senior or has a chronic health condition, you may want to ask what, if any, vaccination exceptions exist. As thoughts regarding vaccination evolve, many kennels now accept titers or statements of vaccine exclusion from a veterinarian in lieu of following a strict vaccination protocol. 

Be prepared to provide emergency contact numbers (including your veterinarian’s contact information) – and make sure the people you list are ready, willing, and able to respond quickly if the facility calls regarding an emergency concerning your dog. 

It’s helpful if the boarding facility offers daycare, too, so your dog can spend a day or two at the facility before spending nights there, too. If the business does not offer daycare, book an overnight stay for your dog when you are in town, so you’re available to pick up your dog if it turns out he is overly stressed. 

Avoid dietary changes in the days prior to boarding. The initial stress of boarding often leads to digestive upset; don’t do anything that might add to this!

If possible, try to avoid contact with other dogs for seven to 10 days prior to boarding. This helps prevent the possibility of exposure to disease that could then be introduced into the kennel environment.

Most daycare and boarding facilities remove clients’ collar, and leave the dogs either naked or in breakaway collars (to prevent entanglement during group play). For this reason, we recommend that your dog is implanted with a microchip ID (registered with your current phone number), or tattooed with information that can quickly lead a rescuer to you, should any disaster lead to your dog’s escape.

GO WITH YOUR GUT

Once you’ve done your homework and thoroughly checked out your list of potential facilities, often the best way to make a selection is to go with your gut instinct. If deciding between two different facilities that seem equal in terms of experience and standards of care, ask yourself if one just simply feels better? If for any reason you feel uncomfortable with a facility, trust yourself and your ability to know what’s best for your dog. 

Drug Ads for Veterinary Products

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woman watching tv with dog
© Monika Wisniewska | Dreamstime.com

Something I noticed while on the elliptical machine at the gym (while trying to notice anything but my heart and respiration rate): There are a lot of ads for veterinary drugs on TV!

My husband and I are some of those weirdoes who only stream movies; we don’t watch broadcast TV, so I haven’t noticed this before, but holy smokes! It seems like there are as many ads for dog drugs as there are ads for drugs for humans – but with one important distinction: The ads for the veterinary medications don’t seem to have to include the fast-talking, small-print “side effects” additions about all the potential adverse effects that the drugs might cause. Why is that? I went looking for more information on the U.S. Food & Drug Administration’s (FDA’s) website, and here’s what I found:

It turns out that the drug companies are required to disclose risk information in their promotional materials – at least, the promotional materials that are presented to veterinarians. Advertising materials that are directed to pet owners – known as direct-to-consumer (DTC) advertisements – are judged by a slightly different standard.

The FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) oversees the promotion and advertising of approved prescription drug products under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, and related regulations. Animal drug companies must ensure their prescription drug information provided to veterinarians and consumers is truthful, balanced, and not misleading. But marketing materials that are advertised in veterinary trade publications or distributed directly to veterinarians (or their hospitals) must be balanced with both benefit and risk information. And the product inserts must contain warnings, precautions, and contraindications for the product’s use.

In contrast, the main criterion for DTC advertisements for prescription drugs is that the promotional message is truthful and does not mislead consumers into thinking the drug is safer or more effective than has been demonstrated. According to the FDA CVM website: “DTC advertisements are designed to prompt consumers to request more information from their veterinarians about the drug.  These advertisements can provide helpful information to consumers, increase awareness of certain conditions or diseases, and may even influence a consumer to seek veterinary help for their animal; however, the content of the advertisement must be truthful, balanced, clearly communicated, and not misleading.”

Interestingly, ads for over-the-counter (OTC) drugs are not regulated by the FDA, but by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC)! The rules for OTC drugs are far less detailed. Essentially, the only real rules are that claims in advertisements must be truthful, cannot be deceptive or unfair, and must be evidence-based.

Also interesting: I couldn’t find any information about the regulations for advertising topical pesticides for dogs (such as “spot on” flea and tick pesticides). The products themselves are regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency, but I couldn’t find advertising regulations anywhere. If I had to guess, I would bet that the ads for these products are governed by the FTC, too.

Personally, I’d love to see the ads for all veterinary products, whether prescription or OTC, pesticide or medication, to have to list the potential side effects, just like the human drug ads. I think this would demystify the products, and help make it clear that anything you give to or put on your dog might have a deleterious effect.

What do you think?

Happy Birthday Karen Pryor

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karen pryor with dog
Karen Pryor is the author of many science-based behavior and training books.

I read the headline with disbelief – “Karen Pryor turns 90 this week!” How can that be possible? It seems like it was just yesterday when I read Don’t Shoot the Dog and began my journey to the right way to train and live with dogs (and all my other animal companions). It was in fact the early 1990s when I first read it; it was originally published in 1984 and is still required reading for all my academy students. (If you haven’t read it… do!)

In addition to Don’t Shoot the Dog, Karen Pryor is the author of many other outstanding books on science-based behavior and training, including Lads Before the Wind, a book about her experiences as a marine mammal trainer. She is also the founder of Clicker Expo, the Karen Pryor Clicker Company, and the Karen Pryor Clicker Academy.

Her most visible legacy is her contribution to the world of dog training. Countless training and behavior professionals, including yours truly, owe a huge debt of gratitude to Karen for awakening us to the science behind the training, and helping us understand that there are far better ways to train than inflicting punishment with choke, prong, and shock collars.

Ironically, Don’t Shoot the Dog was never intended to be a dog-training book; it was written as a self-help book for humans and human behavior. It was a stroke of pure luck that her publishers talked her into bestowing the title that serendipitously caught the attention of the dog-training world. The rest is history.

Educated dog trainers and behavior consultants around the world today truly deserve the title “professional” because Karen introduced our profession to the science of behavior and learning and whetted our appetites to learn more about how our dogs think and learn. And it’s not just dogs. Companion cats, horses, fish, rabbits, mice, birds… all the non-human animals who share our homes and our hearts can thank her for vastly improving the quality of their lives. (To learn more about Karen, read this interview from WDJ 10 years ago.)

An article posted last week on the Karen Pryor Clicker Training website gave an update about Karen, for the occasion of her 90th birthday. I was sad to learn that Karen is dealing with some dementia as she enters her ninth decade on this earth, but comforted to read that she is living in a cottage in a lovely country setting in the Sierra Mountains with one of her sons’ family, enjoying the family dogs, cats, chickens, garden, and the infinite beauty of the natural world around her.

Happy birthday, Karen, and thank you for all you’ve done for all of us. May you enjoy your remaining years on this planet. Rest assured that your legacy will live far beyond your all-too-brief time on this world.

Editorial Independence

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nancy kerns with border collie
First "Editor's photo" : NK and her Border Collie Rupert shortly after being hired to edit Whole Dog Journal in 1998.

I’m going to expand here on an exchange that was sparked in the comments section of the online version of a WDJ article that was posted recently. The article described each of the most effective pesticides and oral medications for dogs that either repel or kill fleas and ticks. One reader wanted to know whether we receive any compensation from pharmaceutical companies in exchange for consideration of their products.

I replied, a bit defensively (due to the use of the word “kickbacks”), that, no, we don’t receive anything in exchange for editorial consideration. The reader wrote back to clarify that he was just trying to determine whether there was any sort of financial consideration or relationship between our publisher or editorial department and the companies whose products we write about. I appreciated his clarification. My short answer is “No!” – and if you’ll forgive me, here’s a longer answer:

Neither the publisher nor I accept any sort of incentives to write about any company or its products.

Very recently, the folks at our publishing headquarters in Connecticut made the decision to offer affiliate links to products that appear in our “Approved Foods” lists or product reviews, as a way to both make it easier for our readers to find and purchase those products if they wish, and to help defray the cost of building and maintaining our new searchable database of approved foods. “Network ads,” which are generated by something to do with Google, may also appear on this website. I’m not sure there are any publishers still in business who are not taking these tacks today, in order to help offset postal and print-industry cost increases. But as WDJ’s editor, working from my home in California, I have no involvement with any of that. Those efforts are siloed far from me.

WDJ’s publisher was founded more than 40 years ago with first one, than an increasing number, of consumer-supported periodicals that eschewed advertising. Founded on the Consumer Reports model, the idea behind each publication was to give readers independent reviews of products and services and technical information from experts in the field, free of any advertising considerations whatsoever. The publisher felt that readers would find enough value in publications that “tell it like it is” – not hedging or holding back in reviews out of concern of losing a chunk of advertising income – that they would gladly pay subscription fees for those publications on an ongoing basis.

When I was hired to edit the inaugural issue of Whole Dog Journal more than 25 years ago, I couldn’t be more excited. I had worked part-time for a predecessor, Whole Horse Journal, which had been purchased by Belvoir from a friend. I was aware of Belvoir’s consumer-oriented approach and was thrilled for an opportunity to shine a light on products and practices that are demonstrably in the best interests of dogs – as opposed to anyone with a dog-related business who will give us advertising money. There can be no more fulfilling job for a journalist than to be allowed to research and write articles without ever having to “pull a punch” out of concern that one of our advertisers might withdraw their support and threaten our ability to continue publication. None of that has changed. I still feel honored to enjoy complete editorial independence from the constraints of influence of advertisers.

Over the years, in order to learn more about the production of dog food, I’ve asked various dog food makers whether I could come see their manufacturing facilities and talk to their formulators. In this way, I’ve been able to tour food production plants operated by WellPet, Hill’s, Diamond, The Honest Kitchen, Champion, Breeder’s Choice, Lotus, and a few more (including some that are no longer in business or that were purchased by other companies, including Iams/Eukanuba and Natura). Some of those companies offered to fly me to their manufacturing cities, pay for my hotel, and more. But Belvoir would never allow such a thing; the most I could (or would) accept on these trips is a meal or two.

Sometimes, pet product manufacturers send products to me, unsolicited and unannounced (ask me sometime about the box of frozen dog food that was sent to me lacking ANY labels that identified it as needing refrigeration or even being food –the one that sat in a pile of other mail and unsolicited stuff for over a month, until I noticed the box was bulging in a way I hadn’t noticed previously! OMG!). If the product is one that I find I really like and think would be a useful product for other dog owners, it might find its way into a review or article at some point. If I find the product to be without value or use, I tend to not respond to the sender. Either way, all products eventually get donated to my local shelter or given to friends or family who might be able to use them.

I’ve never received products from any of the big pharmaceutical companies – and come to think of it, I don’t receive even unsolicited literature from them. I suspect they don’t think they need our support or interest.

A New Strain of Tick-Borne Disease

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tick on dog
Tick-borne diseases are capable of making humans and dogs alike very ill – even killing them.

I’m just back from a week’s vacation, wherein my husband and I picked up his grandson from a suburb of Boston and drove to Gettysburg National Military Park in Pennsylvania to indulge in said grandson’s fascination with the Civil War. We took a hike in Connecticut (on the way) and took several hikes all around the battlegrounds of Gettysburg, on wide, gravel trails and small, forested paths alike. One night in our hotel, after walking all over the hills and trails in Gettysburg, I felt something crawly and found a big dog tick walking along my forearm. Ack! I flushed the tick down the toilet and told my husband and grandson to be alert for ticks on themselves, too.

I honestly thought no more about it until this morning, when I read a 2021 article that a Pennsylvania friend had just shared about the detection of a new strain of Rikettsia, a potentially deadly disease affecting both dogs and people. The new strain of this tick-borne disease was first detected in a handful of dogs who either lived in or had recently visited southern states. I was not bitten by the tick, so I know I don’t have to be worried for myself, but any new tick-borne disease is bad news that dog owners in particular should be aware of.

Ticks can carry quite a few pathogens that can cause disease in dogs and humans. Some of these pathogens are viruses, some are bacteria, and some are protozoa (single-celled animals). Rikettsia are very small bacteria species that grow inside the living cells of their hosts. Different strains of Rikettsia are responsible for diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and various strains of typhus.

The new strain of Rikettsia has likely been around for a while, but researchers identified it as a novel species only in 2020, after obtaining laboratory samples from tests conducted on dogs who had been diagnosed in 2018 and 2019 with Rikettsial diseases and certain symptoms (fever and specific hematological abnormalities). Researchers obtained DNA gene sequences from canine blood specimens that were seroreactive for R. Rickettsia and found identically unique genetic markers in samples from three dogs who had been bitten by ticks in three different states (Tennessee, Arkansas, and Oklahoma). After extensive analysis, it was determined that these three dogs had been affected by identical and never-before identified strains of Rickettsia. Additionally, the new strain was found to be related to two strains of Rickettsia that affect humans (R. heilongjiangensis and R. massiliae). The researchers concluded that this unique Rickettsia species has clinical significance for dogs and potentially humans. The disease caused by this species, they warn, could be underdiagnosed and geographically widespread.

The good news is that this strain, like other Rikettsia species, can be successfully treated with the antibiotic doxycycline; sometimes, more than one course of treatment is required. However, this presumes prompt detection of the infection (via PCR test for Rikettsia). Sometimes, dog owners need to push for this testing, as TBDs are not always the first thing that comes to mind when vets are faced with the varied array of symptoms and biochemistry abnormalities that TBDs can cause. Sometimes, additional medications ar required to treat side effects. For example, one of the three dogs whose novel infections were first detected (a Boston Terrier who lived in Illinois, but apparently got bitten by an infected tick on a trip to Arkansas) was treated with doxycycline to treat his rickettsiosis, prednisone to treat potential immune-mediated component, omeprazole to prevent gastric ulcers (doxycycline can be notoriously hard on a dog’s digestive tract, causing many dogs to stop eating during treatment), and metronidazole to treat “assumed dysbiosis” (disruption to the microbiota homeostasis caused by an imbalance in the microflora, i.e., super upset gut balance caused by the doxycyline).

Some readers of WDJ have complained that we promote the use of topical pesticides that repel and/or kill ticks (such as this recent one that listed all of the better flea and tick preventatives currently on the market). In truth, we want dog owners to know as much as possible about the tools that are available, so they can choose appropriate tactics for protecting their dogs from fleas and ticks, based on their dogs’ individual health conditions and environment. We do not advocate for pesticide use on all dogs, but we do want owners to be aware of the risks of failing to adequately protect the dogs who are at high risk of parasites and the deadly diseases that they (ticks in particular) carry. Tick-borne diseases are widespread, varied, and, left undiagnosed or inadequately treated, capable of making humans and dogs alike very ill – even killing them. It’s critical to prevent your dog’s exposure to ticks – and to get your dog tested for tick-borne diseases if he develops any symptoms of lethargy, fever, lameness, or lack of appetite after being exposed to ticks.

References: 

https://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/canine-rickettsiosis-a-novel-rickettsia-species-identified-in-dogs-in-the-u-s/?fbclid=IwAR1p-v9nR4LGdvmaL9q8wNE1qfkttVmTL-jj5weDbPz4j5ft__lQd0m0vMs

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7706976/

 

Our New Prescription Dog Food List

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rx prescription dog food
© Piman Khrutmuang | Dreamstime.com

In the May issue of WDJ, you’ll see an article about prescription dog foods, as well as some tables that list information about all of the prescription dog foods currently on the market. The tables are organized by the company that makes them and sorted by the condition/s they were formulated to treat. The article discusses how these products differ from non-prescription dog foods.

We hadn’t planned on adding prescription dog foods to the WDJ online dog food databases, the way we do when we review dry or canned dog foods, mostly because we don’t approve or disapprove of them; if, in your veterinarian’s opinion, your dog needs a prescription food, who are we to approve or disapprove?

However, in the process of compiling information about the 169 of the prescription dog foods currently on the market, it occurred to us that we could easily put all of them into a searchable database that our readers could access (“easily” in comparison to the annual compilation of the 1,200 or so dry foods currently on our “approved dry dog foods” list and the 600 canned foods currently on our “approved canned foods” list). And not only would this help us examine their ingredients lists – which typically look very different from the lists of ingredients on our “approved foods” – but we realized that it could potentially help owners locate prescription products that met their veterinarians’ criteria as being beneficial for the dogs’ health condition and contain higher-quality ingredients, or a more appropriate amount of protein or fat. Because, usually, veterinarians are familiar with only the products from one or another prescription-diet company, and if you look with horror at the list of ingredients and balk at feeding that product to your dog, your veterinarian may well dismiss you as a client. And who could blame them? Why would they want to work with a client who won’t follow their recommendations?

But if you were able to see that another company had a food that ostensibly is formulated to treat the same condition that your vet’s suggestion is formulated to treat – one that contains ingredients that more closely resemble actual food – perhaps you could then ask your vet if she or he could prescribe that product instead. Who knows? Your veterinarian might learn about and become impressed with a different company’s products, and your dog will likely be happier with a more palatable diet.

So, if you’re a subscriber, and you’ve registered for your free access to our website, you’ll be able to access our new searchable database of prescription dog foods, too! And the cool part is, you can use the “search” tool to look for products that are formulated to address a particular health condition, and within that category, contain (or do not contain) certain ingredients; are grain-free or grain-inclusive; contain a specific amount of protein or fat; are made with meat, meat meal, or both; and so on. You can add as many search parameters as you like!

prescription dog food filter
Now you can search our database for prescription foods by the condition they have been formulated to treat. To find all the products formulated for “liver care” you’d set the filters like this. You could further specify dry, canned, or frozen products, and/or specific levels of fat or protein, and/or products that contain meat, meat meal, or both.

If you do nothing else, just peruse the database and check out the ingredients and the protein and fat levels of the foods for any given condition. We think you’ll be amazed at what passes for “food” in many of the products in this category.

Prescription Dog Foods: Do They Really Help?

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prescription dog food
The proliferation of foods that are supposedly formulated for the "unique needs" of extremely specific and small categories of dogs has spread to the prescription dog food market. While the number of choices can add to your veterinarian's burden - she's the one who has to choose an appropriately therapeutic diet for your dog - the fact that there are now so many options means that there is, at last, more options available (some of which with more appealing ingredients).

The general concept of veterinary or prescription diets is sound; it’s well-accepted by all nutrition experts that nutrient levels and ingredients can be manipulated in various ways in order to have beneficial effects on animals (including humans) with specific health conditions. We’ve known this ever since the 1930s, when veterinarian Mark Morris innovated the first diet for dogs who were suffering from kidney failure (see “The Morris Family and the Dawn of Veterinary Diets”).

Unfortunately, nearly a century later, the concept is in danger of being a victim of its success. In the past 15 years or so, there has been a tidal wave of prescription foods being brought to market. Pet food makers have been enjoying seemingly endless success by marketing foods to the owners of dogs of ever more specific descriptions – there’s a food being pitched for adult Yorkshire Terriers! there’s one for Pug puppies! – and this trend has spread to the veterinary foods.

There are so many products that even veterinarians are often confused about which food to recommend to their clients. 

The development and marketing of these products got so out of hand, that in 2016, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) created a guidance document for its staff, intended to educate them (and, sort of subversively put pet food makers on notice) about the laws that apply to these products. 

Prescription Diets for Dogs Defined

There are a few differences between a prescription diet and an over-the-counter food. 

Prescription diets are defined as those that are labeled and/or marketed as intended for use to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat, or prevent diseases and are labeled and/or marketed to provide all or most of the animal’s total daily nutrient requirements by serving as the pet’s sole diet. They are meant to be marketed by and used only under the direction of a licensed veterinarian, who bears the responsibility of ensuring that the pet receiving the diet has been properly diagnosed as suffering from a disease or other health condition for which the food would constitute an appropriate treatment. A veterinarian is also expected to provide periodic assessment of how the animal has reacted to the diet and to discontinue the product when warranted.

Consumers are not supposed to be able to purchase prescription diets without a prescription, due to the potential for misusing the product and/or misunderstanding its role in the treatment of the pet’s condition. 

There’s one quirky aspect of the rules regarding the labels of prescription foods: They are not allowed to include any representation that the product contained therein can be used to treat or prevent disease. Discussion of that technical information and the specific factors of the food that are therapeutic or beneficial to pets with the diagnosed condition are supposed to be limited to veterinarians only. That’s why manufacturers of these foods maintain separate websites – one for veterinarians and a separate one for pet owners – that describe their products. 

Our Peeves About Prescription Dog Foods

Though we love and believe in the concept of truly therapeutic foods, we have a few peeves with prescription foods, starting with the practice of making the technical information about the products inaccessible to owners. We believe that interested owners can and should be trusted with information about how the prescription diet is supposed to affect their dogs. We also think that giving owners access to this information would also help them discern the differences – if there truly are any – between the prescription foods and non-prescription foods whose labels may also wink and hint at certain nonspecific health benefits. Over-the-counter food labels probably read as more therapeutic than prescription food labels!

Our biggest pet peeve, though, has to do with the ingredients that tend to appear in prescription diets. These foods are full of by-products! 

In a way, this is a legacy of the original inventors of prescription diets, the father and son veterinarians who developed all the original diets for Hill’s Pet Nutrition. It’s unclear whether there were any nutritionally adequate dog or cat foods on the market before Dr. Mark Morris, Sr., formulated his first products. Dr. Morris graduated from veterinary school as the Great Depression dawned. There were shortages of food for humans, so you could be certain that what was left over for making into pet food was not the most appealing material. But Dr. Morris had something that few (if any) pet food makers at the time had going for him: a scientific mind, honed at the best veterinary college of its day, and knowledge about the nutritional requirements of animals. He, and his son after him, focused on meeting those requirements – proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals – from whatever foodstuffs were at their disposal, at the right price. Nutrients, not ingredients, became the Science Diet way – and the company’s formulators defend it to this day (though the marketing people have pushed for greater inclusions of ingredients that are more appealing to consumers (“humanization” is the industry parlance).

We don’t think there needs to be a wall between these schools of nutritional philosophy. Of course the nutrients in a food are the most important thing – but why can’t they originate from less-processed ingredients?

We developed WDJ’s dog food selection criteria with the quality of ingredients as the most important factor. In prescription dog food, the factors that are responsible for the therapeutic action of the food are of the utmost importance; we can look the other way when we see powdered cellulose as a fiber source or corn gluten meal as a protein source when we know that there are other functional attributes of those ingredients that have qualified them for inclusion. (Though when lay people can’t access the rationale for the inclusion of those ingredients, it’s frustrating!)

Fortunately, change is coming – and the newly crowded veterinary-diet market affords consumers more options, even for highly specialized products. 

The Morris Family and the Dawn of Veterinary Diets

The concept of pet foods formulated to benefit dogs with specific health problems was innovated by Mark L. Morris, Sr., a veterinarian who started his first practice in 1928 in Edison, New Jersey, after graduating from Cornell University. At a time when most veterinarians treated mainly livestock and working farm animals, Dr. Morris focused his veterinary practice, the Raritan Hospital for Animals, on the care of companion animals.

At that time, the nascent pet food industry produced two types of foods for dogs: baked biscuits and canned foods that consisted almost exclusively of horsemeat. Most people fed table scraps to their pet dogs; only more affluent, urban or suburban owners augmented their dogs’ diet of leftovers with a commercial dog food. 

These products were anything but “complete and balanced” – living conditions caused by the Great Depression meant that only the least-nutritive foodstuffs were going into pet food. Dr. Morris noticed that his veterinary practice saw an unusually high number of dogs with kidney disease, and he speculated that this had something to do with their diets, comprised mostly of poor-quality protein. He started conducting research on pet nutrition; he believed that he could better treat his patients by using proper nutrition from a balanced diet. 

Dr. Morris worked with Dr. Jim Allison at Rutgers University’s biochemistry department to develop techniques for diagnosing diseases in small animals and to develop and test recipes for better dog and cat diets; he started selling his first pet food formulas in 1939. 

That was the same year that he met Morris Frank, a young man who had lost an eye in an accident as a young child and lost vision in the other in a boxing match as a teenager. Frank traveled to Europe in 1928 to acquire his German Shepherd guide dog, Buddy; shortly after he brought Buddy back to the U.S., Frank started America’s first guide dog school in New Jersey. In 1939, he and Buddy were “The Seeing Eye” guide dog school’s national ambassadors – though Buddy was by then an old dog suffering from kidney disease. Frank sought out Dr. Morris, desperate for anything that might help Buddy.

Dr. Morris formulated a special diet for Buddy, canning it in glass jars in his kitchen with the help of his wife, Louise. Legend has it that the dog’s health improved and soon, this formula – dubbed Raritan Ration B – was in great demand. Frank sent Dr. Morris a canning machine and a commission for thousands of orders. By 1948, with the popularity of the food growing – and no doubt, wearying of operating the canning machine – Dr. Morris took his formula to a Topeka, Kansas, canning company, the Hill Packing Company (named after its founder, Burton Hill), which had been canning dog food (as well as horse meat for human consumption!) since 1930. 

The business relationship thrived and by 1948 became a partnership, Hill’s Pet Nutrition. Raritan Ration B was given a new name, “Canine k/d” (for “kidney diet”). Dr. Morris continued to create new formulas for diets that addressed pet health problems and Hill’s produced, packaged, and marketed them. In 1951, Dr. Morris moved his laboratory to Topeka, where new products are developed and tested at the Hill’s Global Pet Nutrition Center to this day.

Mark Morris, Sr., was instrumental in the founding of the American Animal Hospital Association. He also established the Morris Animal Foundation and served as president of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Mark and Louise Morris had two children, Mark Jr. and Ruth. Mark Jr. earned a doctorate’s degree in veterinary medicine in 1958. After serving in the U.S. Army Veterinary Corps, he completed a Ph.D. in veterinary pathology and biochemistry. Later, he joined Hill’s Pet Nutrition, where he expanded the company’s offerings. In 1968, he oversaw the development of a new line of dog and cat foods called Science Diet, formulated with preventative health in mind. Mark Jr. was a founding member of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition and co-authored Small Animal Clinical Nutrition, the definitive textbook for companion-animal nutrition.

Hill’s Pet Nutrition has been purchased by large corporations twice: Riviana Foods bought the company in 1968, and in turn was purchased by Colgate-Palmolive in 1976. Hill’s is currently ranked fourth on the list of the largest pet food companies in the world, with $2.5 billion worth of sales annually.

Recommendations for Prescription Dog Food Use

We can’t (won’t) tell you which company’s prescription diets to choose for your dog; only a veterinarian can do that! But we encourage you to dig in for (and prepare to pay for) an extended conversation with your veterinarian about any prescription diets she may recommend for your dog. We’d suggest the following discussion points if your veterinarian recommends a prescription diet for your dog:

  • The first thing to ascertain is whether your vet can describe what, specifically, the product offers to your dog. What are the specific attributes that are therapeutic for your dog’s condition? It’s not enough to just point owners toward a “kidney diet” any time there is a dog of any age with almost any sort of abnormal urine test result. 
  • Ask follow-up questions. If, in the example above, your vet suggests that her recommended “kidney diet” has lower-protein, and that your dog should be on a lower-protein food, ask her what amount of protein she thinks is suitable for your dog. Many kidney diets have protein levels that are very low, far too low for a young or middle-aged dog in the early stages of kidney disease – so low, in fact, that dogs who are fed these diets for a long time start losing muscle mass as their bodies attempt to function without enough dietary protein. It’s easy to find foods at any level of protein she thinks is appropriate, with higher-quality sources of protein than are typically used in prescription diets.
  • Buy a small amount of the food for the first time. Many prescription diets are not very palatable. 
  • If your dog won’t eat it, don’t fall for the “He’ll eat it if he gets hungry enough” speech. If your dog is not well, going hungry will not improve matters. As soon as possible, ask your vet for a more palatable alternative. 

Alternative Dog Food

Starting below, we’ve listed all the prescription dog foods currently on the market in a searchable database. We’ve included the complete ingredients list, as well as the protein and fat content, of each of the foods on this list. We strongly suggest that you compare the ingredients of all the products that are formulated for whatever condition your dog is being treated for. Then ask your veterinarian if she could investigate the technical information for your preferred product and perhaps prescribe it for your dog, too. 

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Why Do Dogs Growl at People?

why do dogs growl at people
When our dog growls at someone, most of us feel tremendous social pressure to admonish our dog. While punishment may stop the behavior in the moment, these aversive methods are very likely to increase your dog's stress, defensiveness, and aggression in the future when people approach, now she has to worry about what you're going to do as well as what the stranger may do.

Although your dog seems to be fine with visitors to your home, you’ve noticed that she’s become increasingly aggressive toward people who approach the two of you when she’s on her leash. For example, the other day it was a nice sunny morning, you were walking your dog through your neighborhood when a new neighbor, out for her morning stroll, approached you.

“What a cute dog!” she exclaimed. Before you could stop her, she bent over and reached for your dog, only to have your beloved canine pal growl and lunge at or – shudder – perhaps even bite her human admirer. What just happened there? Was your dog protecting you? 

It’s possible, but it’s far more likely that your dog was manifesting defensive fear-related aggression.

Is My Dog Protecting or Defending Me?

I see an average of a dozen clients a month who come to me because of concerns about their dogs’ aggressive behaviors. At some point during our consultation at least half of them suggest that their dog is trying to protect them. I suspect it might secretly make them feel better to think their dog is looking out for their best interests, even if it manifests as an undesirable behavior that risks the well-being of the dog as well as the person on the receiving end of the aggression. Sadly, dogs who bite people tend to lose their homes, if not their very lives.

I tell my clients that a far more likely explanation is that their dog is being defensively aggressive. She is probably a little cautious around (or even overtly fearful of) strangers. 

Escape is usually the first behavior choice for a fearful dog, but if she’s on a leash and can’t retreat, she communicates in the only way she knows to tell the scary person to stay away. Growl. Lunge. Snap. Bite.

We often see this behavior emerge in dogs during adolescence, as they approach maturity. Most of my clients with these concerns have dogs who are from eight to 18 months of age. These are usually the dogs who were somewhat shy as a pup. Shy pups tend to shut down and suffer the attentions of the people who want to greet or comfort them. As they get a little older, they may respond with a growl instead of just shutting down. 

Wise people back off when a dog growls. “Hey!” the dog learns. “That worked; I’m going to try that again!” The growling behavior is reinforced by success; the dog realizes that she can get people to leave her alone by growling at them, so she growls more when people approach. At some point when an approaching stranger doesn’t react quickly enough to growling, she escalates to a lunge. That works, too. Lunge, snap, and perhaps even bite are added to the behavioral repertoire. 

Are Dogs Truly Protective?

Do dogs without training ever truly protect their humans? It does happen, but it’s rare. In many years of working with dogs, I’ve heard about this happening only once. 

Years ago, one of my friends/co-workers at the Marin Humane Society adopted an outgoing, people-loving, medium-sized mixed-breed dog from our shelter, Sparky, who had never dreamed of biting a human in his life. One evening as my friend was walking with Sparky, they were confronted by a mugger with a gun, who demanded my friend’s fanny pack, which contained her wallet. Sparky launched himself at the mugger and was shot as a result, but the mugger took off leaving my friend unharmed and in possession of her fanny pack and all her valuables therein. And Sparky recovered from his injuries and continued to be a friend to every other human he met for the rest of his life. 

So, it can happen – but it’s unlikely that’s what your dog is doing.

Protection Dog Training
dog growling at strangers
Dogs who are anxious about strangers should not be considered for protection-dog training, as their judgment about potential threats is generally poor.
Photo Credits: Jaromir Chalabala / Dreamstime.com

Perhaps you want your dog to be protective. Some people hope that their canine family member will serve as some degree of protection, and sometimes, randomly adopted dogs often do. Many humans with ill intentions will steer clear of any person with a dog, not wanting to risk a possible encounter with an unfriendly canine. Homes where dogs live (especially vocal dogs) are less likely to be burgled for the same reason. That’s different, however, from the dog who is purposely trained or encouraged to be aggressive toward threatening people. 

Protection training is a very precise and careful process, starting with a dog who is exceptionally well-adjusted and well-socialized. You don’t want a dog who is driven by fear or suspicion making poor decisions about who to attack! 

At the simplest level of protection training, dogs are simply taught to bark on cue. You can do this yourself. It doesn’t even have to be an aggressive bark – someone approaching you with evil intentions will be put off by a dog barking – they’re not likely to stop and try to analyze canine body language to determine if your dog really might bite them. 

Your cue should be a word or phrase that doesn’t tip off the person but might be natural in the situation. It could be “What do you want?!” in a slightly alarmed tone of voice – something you might say to a suspicious person approaching you. Alternatively or additionally the cue to bark could be an even more subtle signal that your dog would notice but the other person probably would not, such as a fake sneeze, an upward tug on the leash (assuming you don’t normally tug up on your dog’s leash), or whatever makes sense to you. Once you’ve taught your dog to bark on cue, simply cue her to bark if someone is approaching who makes you uncomfortable.

I would suggest you stop there. The mainstream dog-loving population doesn’t really need a dog to be a fang-flashing deadly weapon, and the responsibility and liability of caring for a protection-trained dog is huge. If you do have a legitimate need for a trained protection dog, be sure to seek out the services of a reputable protection-dog trainer. We recommend force-free training, but if a trainer is not force-free, at a minimum, we’d hope the candidate trainer honestly and assiduously follows the least invasive, minimally aversive (“LIMA”) principles espoused by professional organizations such as the Association for Professional Dog Trainers and the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers. 

DEFENSIVE AGGRESSION

Assuming your dog is being defensively aggressive, not really protecting you, what can you do about it? 

You can manage her behavior, of course, by keeping her safe at home where she’s not going to be approached by someone who makes her uncomfortable. However, a lot of people adopt dogs because they enjoy taking them for walks. If this is true for you, you can manage by stopping anyone from approaching and trying to pet her, especially when you are walking her on leash.

You need to be brusque and assertive for this to work. By the time you politely say, “Please don’t approach my dog, she’s really not comfortable with strangers,” she could have already bitten the rapidly advancing dog-lover. Instead, hold your hand up, chest high and palm forward in the universal “stop” signal, and say “Stop!” in a loud, assertive tone. Now you have time to explain why you don’t want them to pet your dog. Stick to your guns, even if you get the standard “But dogs love me!” assurance.

Of course, it’s even better if you can convince your dog she doesn’t have to be fearful of people she doesn’t know. Classical counter-conditioning and desensitization is very useful here: Consistently pair the presence of strangers with very high-value treats (we use chicken – baked, boiled, or the unseasoned frozen chicken strips you can find in your grocer’s freezer) while keeping your dog far enough away that she’s aware of their presence but not overly concerned. Strangers make treats happen! 

If she won’t take the treats, or if she’s growling, barking, or lunging, you are too close! Let her look, then feed her a treat. Look, treat. Look, treat. When she no longer seems concerned about the person, move slightly closer and repeat the procedure. Take your time. If you think you’re going too slow, slow down.

It can also be useful to use a facsimile of trainer Suzanne Clothier’s “Treat/Retreat” protocol.* This one is nice because you can employ the assistance of the dog-loving stranger and fulfill her desire to interact with your dog in a safe way way while you are also helping your dog become more comfortable with strangers. 

What you don’t want to do is have the scary stranger feed your dogs treats from their hand. While this seems like a feasible version of counter-conditioning (strangers make treats happen), it often draws the dog too close to the person (because she really wants the treat) and then when the treat is gone, she looks up to see the scary stranger right in her face, and wham! The bite happens.

Another thing you don’t ever want to do is punish your dog for her defensive behavior: no verbal or physical corrections, no squirt bottles, no yanking on the leash, no bean bags. While punishment may stop the behavior in the moment, these aversive methods are very likely to increase your dog’s stress, defensiveness, and aggression in the future when people approach; now she has to worry about what you’re going to do as well as what the stranger may do. Our goal is to have her associate good stuff with strangers, not bad stuff. We want her to feel better about people approaching, not worse!

How to Play a Treat and Retreat Game

how to stop your dog from growling at strangers
Start by having your volunteer toss high-value treats behind your dog, so she has to move away from the volunteer to reach the treats (in this case, the photographer is the person tossing the treats!). Step with your dog if you need to so that the leash stays slack as she moves to reach the treats. Tip: It helps to use chicken or another moist meat that doesn’t roll when tossed.

In order to play a Treat and Retreat game, you must have some tasty high-value treats, a dog leash (for safety, if you don’t trust your dog around people) volunteers, and a basic knowledge of canine signs of stress. If you want to play it safe, you can enlist the aid of a force-free dog behavior professional to show you how to do the initial work. Here’s how to carry out this behavior-altering game:

1. Arm your volunteers with a supply of kibble and a second bag of tasty, high-value, bite-sized treats.

2. Tell your volunteers to avoid making direct eye contact with your dog when they meet her, as many dogs find this threatening.

3. Upon meeting your dog, in your home or elsewhere, have your volunteer toss a high-value treat past the dog. This way your dog gets to retreat to get the treat.

4. Repeat many times with different people and at different times of the day, in different locations.

5. Once your dog is enjoying the procedure, it’s time to raise criteria. Have a volunteer toss the higher-value treat between herself and your dog (but very close to the dog) so the dog must move closer to the person. Then right afterward toss a lower-value treat (the kibble) past the dog.

6. Repeat with different people at different times of the day in different locations.

training your dog to stop growling
Step 7: After many repetitions, have the volunteer toss high-value treats in front of the dog (closer to the dog than to the volunteer). so that your dog moves toward (but not too close) to the volunteer to reach the food. As soon as the dog takes the high-value treat, have the helper toss a lower-value kibble behind the dog. This helps teach your dog that she doesn’t have to freeze or feel trapped in the presence of new people, but can move toward and away as she feels the need.

7. When your dog is clearly enjoying this game, you can further raise criteria. Have a volunteer gradually toss treats closer to herself so the dog comes closer (then toss one far away so the dog can retreat). 

8. Repeat with different volunteers, different times of the day, in different locations until the dog is consistently more relaxed and starts taking more initiative in happily greeting people. As long as your dog is now happily approaching the volunteer with relaxed body language, soft eyes, and wagging tail, you can move to the next step.  If not, go back to Step 6.

9. Eventually – and only as long as your dog is relaxed and comfortable with your volunteer –allow the person to hand-feed the higher-value treat to your dog, and right afterward, toss a lower-value treat (the kibble) past the dog. 

It’s worth taking the time and making the effort to help your defensive dog become more comfortable with approaching strangers. The less stress in her life (and yours), the better the quality of life for both of you. The less stressed she is about encounters with strangers, the less likely an unfortunate incident will occur at some point in her future, and the more likely the two of you will be able to enjoy a long and happy life together. 

  • In a previous version of this article, trainer Suzanne Clothier’s Treat/Retreat protocol was mentioned without attribution to her. We regret the omission.

Can Dogs Drink Milk & Eat Dairy Products?

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can dogs drink milk
Many dogs enjoy milk and milk products as part of their diets and don't have any trouble digesting them. Yogurt and kefir, in particular, can be highly beneficial additions to a dog's diet. Photo Credit: Vitalii Shcherbyna / Dreamstime.com

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Any food fed to dogs will provoke an argument, but dairy products provoke more than most. 

Milk and dairy products are highly regarded because of their protein, calcium, potassium, vitamin D, B vitamins, zinc, and other nutrients. That, and the fact that most dogs love dairy products, means that milk and other milk-based products remain popular additions to canine diets.

Is Milk Bad For Dogs?

Healthy infant puppies have no trouble digesting their mother’s milk, but adult dogs are often unable to digest lactose, milk’s naturally occurring sugar. The lactose in cow’s milk is blamed for diarrhea, vomiting, loss of appetite, bloating, flatulence, and other symptoms associated with lactose intolerance. 

Until recently, the dairy-for-dogs debate focused on how milk is produced and processed. Today’s dairy cattle are often raised in crowded conditions, fed inappropriate feed, and treated with hormones and antibiotics that leave residues and affect the quality of milk. People who consider milk a perfect food for puppies and adult dogs advocate a return to humane, organic, small-scale, grass-fed dairy farming

Pasteurization is also blamed for reducing the nutritive qualities of milk. Milk is pasteurized to kill harmful bacteria, yeast, and molds; ultra-pasteurization (treatment with higher temperatures) further extends shelf life. 

Critics of these procedures claim that pasteurization alters milk’s proteins and destroys its beneficial enzymes. Raw milk is touted by these folks as the solution. The Campaign for Real Milk (realmilk.org) provides updates, resources, and safety information about raw milk. Regulations vary by state, but in several states pet supply stores sell raw milk products for dogs.

Homogenizing has its critics, too. Fresh whole milk separates, with cream rising to the top. Some dairies sell whole milk that has a layer of cream on top but most sell homogenized milk, which has been treated under high pressure to break the cream into small particles, resulting in a uniform mixture. Because the fat molecules in goat’s milk and sheep’s milk are already small enough to create a uniform texture, they are not usually homogenized. 

New Theory About Lactose-Intolerance in Dogs

dog eating a puppuchino
It’s gotten popular for drive-through coffee chains to offer a free “puppuchino” for any dogs in your car. Typically, this is a paper cup filled with whipped cream, sometimes topped with a dog biscuit. Dogs love this treat, but whipped cream contains a lot of fat and sugar, and the serving size may be inappropriately large!

While milk production and processing methods remain key topics, the science of genetics has changed the dairy-for-dogs debate. About half of America’s dairy cows have a mutation that creates a milk protein called A1 beta-casein. Recent research has shown that A1 milk, which is produced by Holstein cattle, America’s most productive dairy cows, may be linked to human health problems such as allergies, indigestion, and even autoimmune disorders.

In contrast, cows such as Guernsey, Jersey, Charolai, Limousin, Norwegian Reds, and Brown Swiss cows have a higher percentage of the older, original A2 gene. More than 200 reports in the medical literature compare the effects of A1 and A2 milk, including “A Systematic Review of the Gastrointestinal Effects of A1 Compared with A2 Beta-Casein” in the September 2017 journal Advanced Nutrition. That study reports that A1 milk consumption is associated with digestive discomfort and inflammatory response markers in rodents and humans. 

While no conclusive studies have compared the effects of A1 and A2 milk on dogs, anecdotal reports from veterinarians, breeders, and owners describe dogs with dairy-related indigestion improving on A2 milk.

Milk that is labeled as A2 or A2A2 (which indicates that both parents of the cows that produced the milk had the A2-milk producing genes) is now easy to find in American supermarkets as well as natural food stores. 

Other animals that produce A2 milk include sheep, goats, bison, camels, donkeys, and yaks. Any of these milks can be added to food to help ill or aging dogs recover or used as a supplemental food for young puppies.

Can Dogs Eat Cheese?

Dairy products made from milk, especially cow’s milk, can produce no problems at all or acute digestive upsets in dogs. Upsets are usually blamed on lactose intolerance. 

Cottage, Swiss, and cheddar cheese contain far less lactose per ounce than whole milk. String cheese or young (rather than aged) cheddar training treats are easier for most dogs to tolerate than aged hard cheeses. Ripened cheeses contain mycotoxins that can be toxic to dogs, such as those found in Roquefort, blue cheeses, and Stilton. The fungi used to make these veined, fragrant cheeses produce roquefortine C, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, fever, and even seizures in dogs. 

Aged, hard cheeses have a high sodium content and so do feta and some other types. Too much salt can harm dogs with heart disease, Addison’s disease, advanced kidney disease, and other conditions that warrant a low-salt diet. Cottage, ricotta, mozzarella, Swiss, and goat cheese are usually low in sodium.

Another concern is the fat content of cheese, which can lead to weight gain and in some cases pancreatitis, a serious illness in dogs. Cheeses that are lower in fat include mozzarella, cottage cheese, and cheeses labeled “low fat” or “reduced fat.” Large quantities of any cheese can create problems, so moderation is your best cheese-feeding guideline.

Whey, a byproduct of cheese-making, has traditionally been fed to farm animals, including dogs. Powdered whey protein is sold as a performance-enhancing sports supplement for canine athletes and for dogs recovering from illness or injury. If your dog might benefit from a whey supplement, consult your veterinarian and adjust the dog’s diet as needed. Liquid raw-milk whey is sold at some stores and farms; see getrawmilk.com.

Dairy and Microbiome

As described in “A Better Biome: Fecal Transplants for Dogs,” WDJ February 2018, microbiome is an umbrella term that describes communities of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microbes in the body, especially within the digestive tract. 

“Friendly” or beneficial bacteria secrete chemicals that destroy harmful bacteria. If they are present in sufficient numbers, colonies of beneficial bacteria starve harmful microbes by depriving them of nutrients and space. A healthy microbiome is the immune system’s first line of defense. 

Lactofermented dairy products are probiotics that support the microbiome and are often recommended for dogs with yeast infections, inflammation, skin issues, allergies, and digestive disorders. 

 The most famous fermented dairy products are yogurt and kefir, and in recent years both have become popular foods for dogs. They help strengthen the immune system, aid digestion, and restore the body’s beneficial bacteria, especially after treatment with antibiotics. 

According to “Modulation of the intestinal microbiota of dogs by kefir as a functional dairy product,” a study published in the May 2019 Journal of Dairy Science, healthy adult dogs had improved gut bacteria after daily feedings of kefir for just two weeks. “Kefir could be further developed as a novel probiotic food supplement for dogs to improve the quality of life of dogs,” the study concluded.

Several types of yogurt and kefir are available in natural food markets and pet supply stores, including fresh or frozen cow’s milk and goat’s milk products, some with added ingredients (check labels). The most affordable way to feed plain, unflavored, sugar-free yogurt or kefir is to make your own, and the process is simple. 

Dehydrated live milk kefir starter grains and yogurt starters are readily available (see Amazon.com or CulturesforHealth.com). The fermentation process helps reduce lactose in milk, and so do active cultures, which continue to break down lactose during the cultured milk’s refrigeration.

Making yogurt requires a warm, steady temperature such as in an electric yogurt maker, while kefir ferments at room temperature. If available, try using organic, pasture-raised A2A2 milk or goat’s milk. Store yogurt and kefir in the refrigerator or freeze it for long-term storage. How-to videos at YouTube.com and other sites demonstrate the steps; search online for “make your own yogurt or kefir.”

Begin feeding these foods in small amounts, such as 1 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight added to your dog’s dinner. Wait 24 hours and watch for digestive problems such as diarrhea. If your dog enjoys the taste and feels well, add more the next day. Several experts say to feed up to 2 tablespoons of yogurt or kefir per 20 pounds of body weight per day, but many dogs in excellent health eat significantly more. Monitor your dog’s response and check with your veterinarian for the best results.

using kefir starter to make lactofermented dairy

Can Dogs Eat Ice Cream?

Dogs, like their humans, love frozen dairy treats – but frozen dairy treats may not love them back. Ice cream made with cow’s milk is likely to be high in lactose (and probably A1 milk proteins), sweetened with sugar, high in fat, and artificially flavored. Always check the ingredients; some ice cream contains xylitol, which is seriously toxic to dogs.

Ice cream products that are specially made for dogs are usually lactose- and xylitol-free but may contain sweeteners like maltodextrin, polydextrose, sorbitol, and other questionable ingredients. 

Making a healthier alternative can be as easy as freezing plain kefir or yogurt in ice cube trays, popsicle trays, or freezer pop molds. Fresh fruit, peanut butter, or other sugar-free flavorings can be added before freezing along with wooden sticks for holding the treats for your dog.

Let Your Dog Enjoy Dairy!

It’s well known that dogs love dairy! With carefully chosen ingredients, your pups can fall in love with milk-based products that love them back. 

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